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 By: brokeAs240sx Objective: To increase available power after installing additional electronic components (HID's, audio/video, gauges, electric fans, etc.) by using a 1997 Nissan Quest alternator (about $25 CHEAPER) on your 240sx. Difficulty: On a scale from 1~5 (5 being the hardest): 2/5 Time: Approximately 2 hours, assuming you have no previous experience. Introduction: I installed an underdrive pulley a while back, and even with my mild sound system it was fine. However, I have put on electric fans (dual altimas), bigger stereo system, and hid lights. Just the fans & regular bosch headlamps would take up almost all of the alternator power (car would go down to 12.0-12.2 volts & lights would dim dramatically) during night time stop & go city driving. This was not even with my hid's & sound system yet. Installation: 1. Disconnect negative battery terminal or take out the whole battery, makes it much easier. 2. As per the FSM, remove your pulley belts, then the alternator. There are 3 plugs that are attached to the back of the alternator: a small 8mm bolt holding the ground wire, and a 10mm nut holding down the power wire & some other wires, and lastly the electrical connector that needs to be pushed down then pulled out - I did so w/ a screwdriver since it was pretty stuck. 3. Remove the 2 bolts holding the alternator on - 12mm on top, and 14mm on bottom. Move the alternator toward the radiator and put it down on the floor.  4. Prep the Nissan Quest alternator by drilling out the bottom mount holes to 3/8" - actually slightly larger.  5. Prep the electrical connector w/ a 3/8" drill also - The nut that goes over these connectors is 13mm.  6. Installation is in reverse order. Install will be much easier if you can remove your fan & shroud to get them out of the way. The Quest alternator will be slightly larger. For the belt, use the inside 3 ribs of the 4 ribs on the Quest alternator. NOTE: AutoZone has 2 part #'s for the same (basically) alternator for the 97 Quest. Comparison of the 240sx and Quest alternators (Quest on right):   Results: Before: - 13.5 volts cruising w/ headlights on - 12.0-12.2 volts stop & go in city w/ headlights (dimming at low speeds) & 1 of 2 fans going @ 700-750 rpm, some stuttering in the car. - won't even handle headlights w/ both fans going (climate control didn't make much of a difference, raise in rpms but that was just enough to get the climate control running). After: - 13.9-14.0 volts cruising w/ headlights on - 13.9 volts stop & go w/ 1 fan on & headlights bright as they should be - 13.5 volts w/ headlights normal & both fans going @ idle (700-750 rpm) - w/ climate control going & above, the volts do drop down to around 12.5, but idle was relatively low still (700rpm), something you'll want to check. Pat yourself on the back and grab a bottle of beer. You just saved yourself $25, plus labor charges, and have plenty of power for all your goodies.  |