Difficulty: – **
Time: – 1-2 hours
Cost: ~ $50
– Floor jack and stands
– 14 and 17mm sockets and ratchets
– Wire brush
– Tq wrench
– Anti-sieze compound
I got these rear and a front set of Brembro’s some time ago and just never got around to putting the rears on. Drilled and slotted is overkill for what I do with the car but I didn’t know it at the time. Could have saved some money with a plain set of regular rotors with no drilling or slotting.
They should feel and look alot better than my stock 13+ year old factory rear rotors.
Raise the car and secure on the stands, then remove the wheels.
In order to get the rotors on and off you’ll need to remove the brake caliper. You start by removing the torque member bolt with a 17mm socket. There are two bolts on the torque member, top and bottom. This is the top bolt.
This is the bottom torque member bolt.
Torque member bolt-top.
If you can’t wriggle the caliper off then you may need to slightly loosen the pin bolts. There are two pin bolts. This is the top pin bolt.
This is the bottom pin bolt.
Here’s the caliper.
Here’s the torque member that it bolts to.
You don’t want the caliper hanging by the brake line, which could damage the line, so you use something to hold the caliper with while keeping stress off the brake line. I didn’t have any metal coat hangers so I used a small bungee cord. Put one end on the top of your springs and hang the other on the caliper.
The rear rotor is slip-fit so it just comes off when you pull it.
Exposed hub. I’m broke a stud off a couple of months ago. I would have replaced it but I’m shooting for a five-lug conversion real soon.
Take a wire brush and scrape the rust off around the hub and the dust shield.
Then, hit it with some brake cleaner!
replace rotor, then re-install is the reverse of removal.