Before we get started, let’s establish some credentials first. This information is compiled of several staffer contributions from NICOclub and 240sx.org, which date back to 1996. These folks have collectively owned well over 100 S-chassis cars. So, while your friends on Facebook might sound knowledgeable, just smile and nod, and recognize the decades of expertise you’ve got access to here.
If you are considering buying a 240sx, but not sure which model you want or like best, this is the guide for you! The Nissan 240SX was a front engine, rear-wheel drive (FR-layout) coupe built and sold from 1989 to 1998 in the United States, designed to replace the rear-wheel drive 200SX. The car was well-equipped with disc brakes standard, and could be bought with a 4-speed automatic or a 5-speed manual transmission. The 240sx is known for its snappy, precise handling, good chassis balance, and legendary Nissan reliability. Criticisms are limited to underpowered engines and low production numbers.
S13 (89-94): The S13 came in 3 body styles:
Hatchback (also called fastback)
Coupe
Convertible
…as well as two sub-generations:
Pignose (zenki – literally meaning, “Preceding Period”)
Sharknose (chuki – literally meaning, “Middle Period”)
The first year for importation of the 240sx was 1989. It came with the pignose front bumper in 1989 and 1990, so called because of the two “nostril” openings in the upper middle of the front bumper. These years were equipped with the 2.4 Liter KA24E Single Overhead Cam (SOHC) inline 4 cylinder engine. This engine produces 140hp and 152 lb/ft. tq.
The chuki came into production in 1991 and remained until 1994. It came with a newly re-designed front bumper that eliminated the “pignose” openings. The 2.4 liter, KA24DE Dual Overhead Cam (DOHC) inline 4 cylinder engine was standard in the 91-94 S13, and produces 155 hp and 160 lb/ft. tq. The coupe is based on the Japanese-market Silvia while the fastback is based on the 180SX. The major difference between the US-market 240SX and the Silvia were the retractable headlamps. American regulations did not allow Nissan to directly carry over the Silvia fixed-headlamp arrangement.
In the chuki years, some hatchbacks were equipped with optional SUPER HICAS (4 wheel steering) system. This was an early attempt to assist in handling, much like the early 90’s Honda Prelude, but these days, most enthusiasts disable the system. You can learn more about Nissan’s HICAS system here.
The convertible began production in 1992 and all convertibles were originally built as automatic transmission LE-trim cars (although some were fitted with the leather seats from the LE package). These cars were shipped here as coupes, then converted over by ASC. Also note that in 1994, no coupes or hatchbacks were built. The only 240sx sold were the leftover convertibles from 1993. You can read more about the 240sx Convertible here.
S13 zenki didn’t have trim packages per se, but were simply offered as follows:
XE (Coupe only) SE (Hatchback only). Power windows and door locks were an added-cost option, as was the rear spoiler. ABS was an added-cost option on the SE.
S13 chuki Trim Packages:
XE (Coupe only) – power windows, power door locks, cloth seating. Power moonroof and digital Heads-Up Display (HUD) were optional.
LE (hatchback only) – power windows, power door locks, leather seating optional.
SE (hatchback only) – power windows, power door locks, cloth seating. Rear spoiler, ABS, VLSD, HICAS, and power moonroof optional.
S14 (1995-1998):
In 1995, the 240 was completely redesigned. Pop up headlights gave way to larger fixed lighting, a wider stance, longer wheelbase by 2 inches, more rigid chassis, dual air bags and a much more comfortable interior. However, the DOHC KA powerplant remained. The S14 also had two sub-generations.
Zenki (95-96) literally meaning, “Preceding Period”): The zenki front end is easily identified by its rounded proportions and oval headlights with plastic lenses. The SE zenki came with a factory black front lip.
Kouki (97-98) literally meaning, “Latter Period”): In 1997, the S14 was redesigned with a more angular, aggressive front fascia including a new hood, bumper, and fenders, and included glass headlight lenses with projectors. Side skirts were standard, and made the car look lower and leaner. Nissan also made an OEM front lip for the kouki, but most have long since been destroyed by curbs or road debris.
S14 Trim Packages:
Base: 4 lug 15″ wheels, power windows, power door locks, cloth seating, black faced gauges, moonroof and spoiler were optional, no rear sway bar.
SE: 5 lug 16″ 5 spoke wheels, power windows, power door locks, cloth seating, rear sway bar, white faced gauges, power moonroof (optional in 95, 97, and 98). Rear spoiler, fog lights, ABS and VLSD were also added-cost options.
LE: 5 lug 16″ 5 spoke wheels, power windows, power door locks, leather seating, keyless entry and alarm, CD player, white faced gauges, power moonroof, rear spoiler, fog lights. ABS and VLSD were added-cost options.
Buying Guide:
There are some things to look for when buying an S-chassis. Mileage is normally not a very big issue as the SOHC and DOHC KA are durable engines, known to go well over 200k miles if maintained properly. By now, there’s no question most of these cars have exceeded 200k miles, unless stored (or broken down for a time).
Engine issues: Listen to the engine at idle. A rattling sound from the front of the engine can be the timing chain guides. These are plastic-backed guides and were later deemed unnecessary by Nissan. The plastic bits eventually break off if not removed, and can cause timing issues (or blocked oil passages). Here’s a great DIY how-to for removing the chain guides, a fairly simple task if you are even a little bit mechanically inclined. Look for excessive smoke from the exhaust, and perform a compression test. Don’t believe the “recently rebuilt” line or “low-mileage takeout engine” stories. Ask for proof.
Transmissions: An automatic trans car will likely have had a slightly easier life up to now. A couple decades ago, buying a well-preserved automatic was a smart move, and many of us could do a manual swap in a day for less than $500. Now, transmissions are harder to source and even a manual pedal box can command more money. So, while a manual trans car is more desirable for an enthusiast, you may still consider an automatic – but do your homework on sourcing a transmission, clutch, driveshaft, pedal box, etc. before you commit.
Rust is a common problem for all cars anywhere that snow, ice or salt spray is prevalent. Check under the spare tire in the hatch/trunk, the battery tray and strut towers in the engine bay, around the hatch / trunk, and make sure the chassis is rust free as well by checking the frame rails and underbody. Rust can seriously compromise the structural integrity of any car, rendering it unsafe and unstable to drive. Don’t be so quick to trust that the “undercoating” on a northeastern car is fine – unscrupulous sellers have been known to spray a fresh coat of undercoat over rust and pass it off as “protected.” The worst rust plagues the hatchback models. If the hatchback has a factory spoiler, then there WILL be rust under that spoiler guaranteed. The factory spoiler is made of foam and has had 35 years to soak into the metal. For this reason, try to look for a hatchback that wasn’t equipped with the factory spoiler.
If you’re fortunate enough to have found a car from a non-rust area, like the southwest, you’ll notice a different problem: The sun and its UV rays played havoc with the dash, door panels, seats, rubber and plastic. Very few uncracked dashes remain, and those that do are often about to crack. Replacing a dash is a huge job, but if the cracking is minimal, a dash overlay (such as those sold by Enjuku) is a low-cost option.
Look under the car for signs of fluid leakage. Coolant is green, oil is brown/black and brake/trans fluid is red or orange. Inspect the engine bay and the underside of the engine/transmission for dampness or sludge, especially around the drain plug and seals.
Because the 240sx has been incredibly popular with the amateur drift community since the first ones were built, visually inspect the vehicle for any signs of a prior collision. Bring a magnet to check front and rear fenders, especially just above the rear wheels. Body panels that have been repaired with body filler are dead givaways, as well as slightly mismatched paint shades and panels. Look for evidence of a repaint by opening the hood and looking inside the door jambs. Doors that don’t fit right, panel gaps that vary in width, and difficulty opening or closing the hood, doors or trunk / hatch are all evidence of prior damage. Look at the frame rails as well. Even through the S-chassis is a unibody car, it has “frame rails” that run front to rear, about 8″ inboard of the lower pinch welds. Collisions can cause significant damage to the frame that can influence the car’s handling negatively and lead to major headaches down the road.
Ask for current inspection / registration paperwork. If the car will not pass your local inspection / emissions test, factor in the expense to make it legal for road use. Verify the lights and signals work properly, listen and smell for exhaust leaks, note the tread on the tires… all these can be used by a smart buyer to bargain with the seller.
A sunroof used to be a desirable option on many cars. However, not so much on an S-chassis. Additional weight and complexity makes a sunroof a detrimental option. If the car has a sunroof, spray water over it and verify that its not leaking. On hatchbacks, spray water over the rear and verify that moisture isn’t making its way into the hatch area.
Remember, while the S-chassis cars have gone up in value due to rarity, buy the best example you can afford. Sellers will use terms like “easy fix” or tell you they “lost interest” in a project – That’s a good sign that you’re going to spend a lot more in the coming months and possibly become frustrated with your purchase as well. Don’t be afraid to search the southwestern states, where rust isn’t an issue. Shipping a car cross-country is far cheaper than rust repair, so keep that in mind.
Number exported, sorted by year – including convertibles:
1989 – 68118
1990 – 60582
1991 – 34534
1992 – 27033
1993 – 21471
1994 – 1391
1995 – 25114
1996 – 7334
1997 – 3655
1998 – 2178
Number exported, sorted by year (convertibles only):
1992 – 2327
1993 – 4602
1994 – 1391