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[post_date] => 2016-12-22 23:46:19
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[post_content] => -by David Muramoto
Unlike the planets Jupiter and Saturn, which are labeled ‘gas giants’ since they are primarily made up of gasses such as hydrogen and helium, these two recently-introduced Nissan models haven’t yet been around for billions of years. Rather, they’ve been introduced for the 2017 model year with a newly-revised version of the gasoline-powered 5.6-liter V-8 (labeled the Endurance VK56VD). This engine replaces the venerable VK56DE and features a host of improvements. Utilizing direct injection for precise injection control, reduced knock and combustion stability, Nissan was able to increase the compression ratio to 11.2-to-1 (as compared to a 9.8-to-1 ratio in the outgoing VK56DE), a quantum leap made possible by revised piston design and carefully metered temperature control.
The result? A 73-horsepower increase to 390 HP at 5,800 RPM and a 12-15% increase in EPA fuel economy for both models. The VK56VD design also utilizes VVEL (Variable Valve Event and lift) control of both intake timing and lift for better wide-open throttle response. This feature has allowed Nissan engineers to directly control the intake valves for throttle control, vs. the older method of electronically controlling the throttle valve itself. Yet another step shadetree mechanics (myself included) will have difficulty with in diagnosing and working on our computer-controlled wonders in the future. It’s also worth noting the new Endurance V8s are tuned to use regular unleaded fuel, rather than premium. Both the Armada and Titan tested utilized Nissan’s HD seven-speed automatic transmission in AWD form.
2017 Titan Pro-4X Crew Cab
Unlike the Titan XD tested last summer, this particular Titan features the Endurance V8 in a half-ton chassis. While not as robust in construction, the standard Titan is lighter than the XD and shorter in wheelbase by almost a foot. Nissan has aggressively priced it as low as $29,580 for the single cab, 4X2, S (base) model. They made it clear their aim was to fill out their truck lineup as time goes on, and this lighter duty truck (with crewcab and single cab options) with five grade levels is proof of that. All gas-powered 2017 Titans still come with the VK56VD and seven-speed transmissions, and this Pro-4X is no exception.
It’s a big step up into the cab, even for this 5’11” racer/writer, so step bars are a must on your option list. The cockpit is best described as a blend of rugged functionality and upscale technology. I seem to fit the Titan’s “zero gravity” seats well and did several hours of driving without discomfort. Utilizing an I-key, the start button wakes up the VK56VD with a distant rumble, and you can already tell the NVH [noise/vibration/harshness] levels are lower than the preceding Mark I Titans.
Pulling away from the stop sign, it’s encouraging to note how easily the gas powered Titan accelerates. There’s no hesitation as I noted on an unladen Titan XD with the 5.0-liter Cummins V8 diesel. That truck really comes into its own when there’s 8-10K pounds of weight strapped to its receiver or bed, but for just driving around town, I liked the VK56VD better. Steering feel and brakes felt similar to the XD, although with almost 1,000 pounds less weight, the gas Titan moves more easily in almost every way.
My interest in the Pro-4X is particularly high when it comes to towing. Sliding under the rear of this Titan revealed it has the same class 3/4 receiver the XD uses. Since my fully loaded 24” enclosed race trailer uses a weight-distributing hitch, the receiver is rated as a class 4, and it hitched up just fine. But unlike my previous test of the XD (NICO 2016 review: “Nissan’s Big Bad MoFo”), the Pro-4X showed a bit more strain at handling the 9K pounds of this load. It’s likely a combination of the lighter chassis and shorter wheelbase, but there was an appreciable amount of rear squat even before we moved down the road. Still, the Pro-4X was equipped with the optional ($1,820) “Utility and Tow” package and after a bit of adjusting, I was off for a short haul. For all the new technology in the VK56VD, it certainly felt similar to my older ’08 Titan - initial acceleration, mid-range power going up hills and even the seven speed tranny kicking down to fourth gear on some of the steeper stretches. My five-speed tranny would do a lot of searching between third and fourth in those same stretches, but the overall speed and throttle position were similar.
Checking the fuel economy after this run, it was a bit disappointing to find the VK56VD averaged about 1.5 MPG better than my VK56DE while towing. But since my average VK56DE towing figure is only about 8 MPG in the first place, even that small number ends up being an 18% improvement! Without the load attached, the Pro-4X is EPA rated at 15 city/20 highway/17 MPG overall on unleaded regular. And while I still prefer the specialized tow package installed on my first-gen Titan (including Firestone Ride Rite airbags in the rear and Bilstein HDs on all four corners) with an extra-long wheelbase King Cab variant, there’s no doubt the ’17 Titan Pro-4X was the quieter, more relaxed and comfortable ride overall. With an MSRP of $52,305 (including three option packages and a $1,195 destination charge) it’s a package that makes me rethink my priorities for the future.
Next page: 2017 Nissan Armada Platinum 4WD
[post_title] => 2017 Nissan Titan and Armada: the Gas-Powered Giants
[post_excerpt] => As Nissan’s Year of the Truck comes to an end, NICOclub takes a final look at two late-year introductions that’ll lead into 2017. If you’re a gas truck fan, or someone who wants a big Nissan SUV to hold your entire tribe, you’ll want to read this one.
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[post_content] => -by David Muramoto
Unlike the planets Jupiter and Saturn, which are labeled ‘gas giants’ since they are primarily made up of gasses such as hydrogen and helium, these two recently-introduced Nissan models haven’t yet been around for billions of years. Rather, they’ve been introduced for the 2017 model year with a newly-revised version of the gasoline-powered 5.6-liter V-8 (labeled the Endurance VK56VD). This engine replaces the venerable VK56DE and features a host of improvements. Utilizing direct injection for precise injection control, reduced knock and combustion stability, Nissan was able to increase the compression ratio to 11.2-to-1 (as compared to a 9.8-to-1 ratio in the outgoing VK56DE), a quantum leap made possible by revised piston design and carefully metered temperature control.
The result? A 73-horsepower increase to 390 HP at 5,800 RPM and a 12-15% increase in EPA fuel economy for both models. The VK56VD design also utilizes VVEL (Variable Valve Event and lift) control of both intake timing and lift for better wide-open throttle response. This feature has allowed Nissan engineers to directly control the intake valves for throttle control, vs. the older method of electronically controlling the throttle valve itself. Yet another step shadetree mechanics (myself included) will have difficulty with in diagnosing and working on our computer-controlled wonders in the future. It’s also worth noting the new Endurance V8s are tuned to use regular unleaded fuel, rather than premium. Both the Armada and Titan tested utilized Nissan’s HD seven-speed automatic transmission in AWD form.
2017 Titan Pro-4X Crew Cab
Unlike the Titan XD tested last summer, this particular Titan features the Endurance V8 in a half-ton chassis. While not as robust in construction, the standard Titan is lighter than the XD and shorter in wheelbase by almost a foot. Nissan has aggressively priced it as low as $29,580 for the single cab, 4X2, S (base) model. They made it clear their aim was to fill out their truck lineup as time goes on, and this lighter duty truck (with crewcab and single cab options) with five grade levels is proof of that. All gas-powered 2017 Titans still come with the VK56VD and seven-speed transmissions, and this Pro-4X is no exception.
It’s a big step up into the cab, even for this 5’11” racer/writer, so step bars are a must on your option list. The cockpit is best described as a blend of rugged functionality and upscale technology. I seem to fit the Titan’s “zero gravity” seats well and did several hours of driving without discomfort. Utilizing an I-key, the start button wakes up the VK56VD with a distant rumble, and you can already tell the NVH [noise/vibration/harshness] levels are lower than the preceding Mark I Titans.
Pulling away from the stop sign, it’s encouraging to note how easily the gas powered Titan accelerates. There’s no hesitation as I noted on an unladen Titan XD with the 5.0-liter Cummins V8 diesel. That truck really comes into its own when there’s 8-10K pounds of weight strapped to its receiver or bed, but for just driving around town, I liked the VK56VD better. Steering feel and brakes felt similar to the XD, although with almost 1,000 pounds less weight, the gas Titan moves more easily in almost every way.
My interest in the Pro-4X is particularly high when it comes to towing. Sliding under the rear of this Titan revealed it has the same class 3/4 receiver the XD uses. Since my fully loaded 24” enclosed race trailer uses a weight-distributing hitch, the receiver is rated as a class 4, and it hitched up just fine. But unlike my previous test of the XD (NICO 2016 review: “Nissan’s Big Bad MoFo”), the Pro-4X showed a bit more strain at handling the 9K pounds of this load. It’s likely a combination of the lighter chassis and shorter wheelbase, but there was an appreciable amount of rear squat even before we moved down the road. Still, the Pro-4X was equipped with the optional ($1,820) “Utility and Tow” package and after a bit of adjusting, I was off for a short haul. For all the new technology in the VK56VD, it certainly felt similar to my older ’08 Titan - initial acceleration, mid-range power going up hills and even the seven speed tranny kicking down to fourth gear on some of the steeper stretches. My five-speed tranny would do a lot of searching between third and fourth in those same stretches, but the overall speed and throttle position were similar.
Checking the fuel economy after this run, it was a bit disappointing to find the VK56VD averaged about 1.5 MPG better than my VK56DE while towing. But since my average VK56DE towing figure is only about 8 MPG in the first place, even that small number ends up being an 18% improvement! Without the load attached, the Pro-4X is EPA rated at 15 city/20 highway/17 MPG overall on unleaded regular. And while I still prefer the specialized tow package installed on my first-gen Titan (including Firestone Ride Rite airbags in the rear and Bilstein HDs on all four corners) with an extra-long wheelbase King Cab variant, there’s no doubt the ’17 Titan Pro-4X was the quieter, more relaxed and comfortable ride overall. With an MSRP of $52,305 (including three option packages and a $1,195 destination charge) it’s a package that makes me rethink my priorities for the future.
Next page: 2017 Nissan Armada Platinum 4WD
[post_title] => 2017 Nissan Titan and Armada: the Gas-Powered Giants
[post_excerpt] => As Nissan’s Year of the Truck comes to an end, NICOclub takes a final look at two late-year introductions that’ll lead into 2017. If you’re a gas truck fan, or someone who wants a big Nissan SUV to hold your entire tribe, you’ll want to read this one.
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"
As Nissan’s Year of the Truck comes to an end, NICOclub takes a final look at two late-year introductions that’ll lead into 2017. If you’re a gas truck fan, or someone who wants a big Nissan SUV to hold your entire tribe, you’ll want to read this one.
It was the pair's fourth victory in the first five rounds of this year's South Africa Off Road Championship (SAOC) and extends their championship lead to 60 points over South Africa Nissan team-mates Ivar Erik Tollefsen and Quin Evans with three rounds remaining. The win also extends Nissan's winning streak to 11 since the Eastern Cape 400 in April last year.
Nissan scored a clean sweep of the three production vehicle classes, with privateers Coetzee Labuscagne and Johan Gerber taking the class D honors in their Nissan Hardbody and Leeroy Poulter and Rob Howie earning an impressive debut class E win in their South Africa Nissan Motorsport-prepared Nissan Hardbody.
Vos and Pitchford showed their class once again with another come from behind performance. They started Saturday's race in seventh place among the production vehicles after a disappointing prologue, but reached the halfway compulsory service stop in the lead.
"We struggled in the dust in the early stages and were slowed with a puncture," said Vos. "But we pushed hard and took advantage of the fact that many of our rivals ran into problems. Apart from another puncture early in the second loop, we had a clean run throughout the rest of the race."Contact Info: 
Such has been the domination of Vos and Pitchford in this year's championship - they have won four of the six events to date - that their poorest result of the season so far was enough to put them out of reach of their nearest rivals. Vos was the defending champion driver and has now won the title three years in succession.
The Highveld 400, which started from Carnival City with a 99-km prologue on Friday and finished at Carnival City after two racing legs of 134 km on Saturday. Terence Marsh and Pieter Groenewald (Regent Racing Nissan Navara) were third, 29 min 17 sec behind the winners and 14 min 41 sec ahead of Nissan Motorsport's Ivar Tollefsen and Quin Evans (Donaldson Nissan Navara).
Vos and Pitchford, who had started fourth among the production vehicles on Saturday after suffering a puncture on the prologue and losing further time beached on a disused dam wall, reached the mandatory service stop at the halfway point in second place. On the second loop they hit a rock in the dust as they tried to take the lead and suffered a broken bolt on the steering arm. They limped very slowly some 70 km to the finish, completing the loop 58 minutes slower than they had done earlier in the morning.
Ivar Tollefsen and Quin Evans, who had been second in the championship at the start of the event, lost all further hope of challenging for the title when they started 47th among the combined production and special vehicle field on Saturday after losing 22 minutes stuck on the same dam wall as their team-mates. Despite heavy dust which made overtaking difficult, they battled their way back into the top 10 by the halfway stage and did well to finish in the top four. They are now third in the championship and still in the running for the runner-up spot.
Related URL: 
Image of navigation display
*1: The Intelligent Transport System is an advanced information system that connects people, vehicles and traffic infrastructure that can contribute to help improve road safety.
*2: The ITS Project in Kanagawa prefecture is a collaboration between Nissan, NTT DoCoMo Inc., Matsushita Electric Industrial Co., and Xanavi Infomatics Corp. NTT DoCoMo Hokkaido Inc. is also involved in the test in Hokkaido.
*3: Vehicle location, speed and other information via cellular communications.
Contact Info: 
This is a picture of the hub and as you can see it needs some serious cleaning, this was before I cleaned it.....
Now that the rotor and caliper is off, you can replace the pads. On the OEM calipers, there is a small clip that holds in the pad on the upper left hand side of each side of the caliper. Get some needle nose pliers and pull that clip down, and then you can simply push the pad out with your finger... I noticed that only 1 per side of the hawk pads had these clips, whereas the OEMs had 2...doesn't really matter...but definitely put the one WITHOUT THE CLIP on the PISTON...
One thing I sort of discovered by accident is that the caliper bracket just pulls off. You have to remove the caliper bracket in order to push the piston back... So simply pull the caliper bracket away from the caliper, and set it aside... You can then use your C clamp to push back the piston. BE SURE TO TAKE OFF THE LID TO THE MASTER CYLINDER! What we did, instead of sucking fluid out, is just took off the lid and put a towel over it.YOU DO NOT WANT TO SPILL BRAKE FLUID ANYWHERE!!If this is your first time messing with brakes, you should probably replace your brake fluid....which will be discussed later...
so once you push the piston back , you can put the caliper bracket on the slide pins and install the pads. Before you do that, put a little bit of that grease on the pins.....
To install the pads, simply put them in with the flat side facing down(the top of the pad is curved, and the bottom is flat).....It does not matter which side they go on....
Cover the back and sides of the pad with the grease, and install into the caliper...
Once you install them and the caliper is ready to go back onto the car, put the rotor on..I noticed it helps to put a few of the lug nuts on finger tight to hold the rotor in place...You don't need to put that little nut back on the rotor as with our aftermarket rotors they did not work.... save them for later use...
Repeat this 3 times...the rears were MUCH easier than the front, I did one rear brake in about 15 minutes....
Another thing of note is that I did not see any jack points for the rear. The frame goes too far forward, and the chassis is so stiff it will actually fall back somewhat.... I supported it on the subframe with my jack stand, there is a level place, it is hard to describe, but you should see it.....
Now that your brakes are done, you are now ready to bed the pads..An excuse to violate the brakes, life is good, right??
it is VITAL that you bed the pads in correctly or they will not work right....
First off be sure to pump the pedal a few times so you get full pressure back...
Now go out and make about 10 40-almost 0 stops..apply over half pressure....You don't want to stop all the way!!!! Just stop most the way but while your doing the bedding process, NEVER come to a complete stop with your foot on the brake..
After you do that, let the brakes cool for a few minutes, then do a few 60+ to zero stops applying full pressure...
Congrats you have just replaced your brakes on your G35! Now, next time wear some rubber gloves so that your not scrubbing brake crap off your hands for 3 days!!!
[post_title] => Changing the Brakes on an Infiniti G35
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[post_modified] => 2011-02-27 17:28:47
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => Hey guys. I was really interested in the Ghetto Air Box (GAB) but did not want to destroy the filter holder (>65 dollar value according to Dave B) So I thought up a way to create the same thing without cutting part of the holder off. This may have been thought up before but I didn’t know about it.
First jack up the car in the rear and take off the wheels. I did this one wheel at a time. First loosen this bolt on the caliper. There is another at the bottom that you will have to take out too.
Once you get the two bolts off, get the rubber mallet and hammer this part of the caliper off. It should come off with ease as shown below. In the pic below you can see the brake pads and the metal cover that goes on the pads. DO NOT BEND THE METAL COVER. It easily bends.
Next remove this bolt and the one below to remove the second part of the caliper. Once you remove these two bolts, The 2nd part of the caliper comes off easily.
Next the rotor should come right off. It may take a bit of a tug or a few hits with the rubber mallet. DO NOT HIT THE ROTOR WITH THE METAL HAMMER. You can break this if you do.
Next with the metal hammer, knock out the studs. After a good hit they should pop right out.
This next pic shows the studs removed and the difference in the size of studs if you get spacers bigger than 10mm.
The pic below show the rotor cover that has to be knocked back to fit the studs in. This was the only way I could get the studs in. You may try to give it a shot, but after about 30 mins you will resort to this I promise.
Before:
After:
Put the new provided studs from H&R in and put on the rotor
Now put the wheel spacer on as such and put 2-4 washers on each stud and the lug nut. This will tighten the studs into the holes better.
Once you have the 2-4 washers on and the lug, tighten that lug up a bit until you can not push the stud out no more with a good amount of force so when you put on the wheel they will not pop out.
Here is fellow maxima owner Cullen Jones helping me out putting on the wheel.
You really have to tighten up the lug nuts to ensure that they are forced into their holes well. I would tighten a little bit beyond torque specs and loosen and retighten a few times. Be sure to check the tightness for the next few days.
Here are some pics before the spacers in the rear.
Here are a couple of after the spacer has been installed.
And a comparison between two 2002 Maximas. Notice the huge difference.
This How-To was brought to you by David Honey (aka Fezzik on all the car forums).
[post_title] => Nissan Maxima - How To Install Rear Wheel Spacers
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[post_modified] => 2011-03-11 16:15:27
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[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => Special thanks for this write up goes to audtatious (Matt Moody). 
If you do not, then follow these instructions to get them. First of all, open your hood and when looking at the engine bay look to your left and you will see a black box that contains some relays. Open that up and find the corresponding spot for the heated mirror (it says on the black box where its at.) If you have a spot to put a relay in then all is well so far, and later you will have to buy the relay or in my case I had a nice surprise and already had the relay there. Ok the next criteria you need to find out in order for you to proceed is to take off your door paneling and look at the wiring harness going to the side view mirror (see below pic). The big black plastic piece is the cover to the side view mirror. There are 3 wires (yellow purple and dark blue) going into this and into the side view mirror. There are 3 wires corresponding to these wires on the other side of the connectors. Now take note of the other 2 wires (Green and light blue) coming out of the top right two holes. There is normally nothing here, but on the corresponding other side there are two wires leading up to these.
These are the wires that are pre-wired for the heated mirror. I tested this theory out by hooking up a voltmeter to the wires that I put in the top right holes. (I originally had the connector in the above picture disconnected and tried to test the voltage on the 2 small pins and that was too hard to do. I shorted the circuit and blew fuse 13... so do like I did above. SO much easier). When plugged into a voltmeter and with the rear defroster on I got around 12 volts (sorry about the blurry pictures):
And with the rear defogger switch off reads 0.001Volts:
The next step is to take off the black plastic cover that is covering the side view mirror bolts (same plastic cover as seen in the above picture that the 3 wires are running into.) Unplug the connector, and take off the three bolts that are holding the mirror onto the door.
What it looks like with the mirror off (inside). Also notice how many wires are running into this connector. Look below the black tape. 5 of them.
Outside view with mirror off:
Now you have to take out the 3 screws that are below the side view mirror.Notice the blue. Yep that's locktite. I striped the head of the screw on the passenger side and took me 2 hours to finally get it out. SO BE CAREFUL TAKING THESE OUT:
Here is the assembly all apart:
Now look at the part of the side view mirror that faces the car the part that has the 3 places to bolt onto. There is a cover on this that you have to take off. The insulation is glued on there so your going tear that. Nothing you can do about that. Look below how I tore mine. Unscrew the thing that is holding the wiring harness in place.
I apologize but I forgot to take some pictures from here on out. It was getting late. But now, you can have full access to this gray tubing.
Remove the actuators (the things that make the mirror go up and down, right and left) from the side view mirror. This is held on by 3 screws. When you take this off you will see 4 wires. Didn't I just say there was 3 wires going to the side view mirror. I did. But one is spliced somewhere in the gray tubing. Dave Burnette (You maxima guys should know him) and I were talking about this for awhile until I finally found out the reason The ECM even shows 3 wires but if you look inside the actuator, there is a wire that is split. Ok back to the subject at hand. Remove the 2 connectors (gray and black) from the actuator. Remember which go where. I marked it with scotch tape. Now the wiring can slide down the tube that is inside the mirror. Wish I had a pic of this but you will see what I am talking about. Now you can run wire through the gray tubing easily.
First I ran 2 wires long enough to reach from the other end of the side view mirror where the heater element connector is to reach all the way to the connector in the door panel.To run wire through this gray tubing was tricky, but I used solder wire. The stuff that's flimsy. Well, it's stoutenough to push the solder wire through the grey tubing. Then I tied ( you may try taping it) to the wire and pulled it through. You now have a wire going all the way through.
Now put everything back together the way you took it off. I did not worry about the insulation from the above picture because it all went back and even though it is torn still covered everything up. Now that everything is back together you now have what you started with but, now with 2 wires running through the mirror. Here's the part where I had to get creative. You have to have a metal pin connector to fit into the big plastic connector. Luckily I have a storage area of computer parts and wiring harnesses from computers. I actually got the 2 pins I need from a 1985 Honda Accord radio wiring harness for aftermarket systems. Lucky me.
Now all that leaves is the connector for the side view mirror. Take a look at it below:
Of all things I found to fit into here... it was a long computer jumper. Sorta like the audio cables you plug from your cd drive to your sound card, but I had a 2 prong one. With a little bit of firm pressure it fit right in and quite snugly. Popped the mirrors back into place and I now have heated side view mirror option on my car. Supposed to snow soon. Can't wait to try it out.
Special thanks go out to my dad for helping me decipher the wiring diagram on the ESM and reading the voltage, and to Dave Burnette for his time in this as well.
[post_title] => Nissan Maxima - Heated Side Mirror Installation
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[post_name] => 5th-gen-maxima-how-to-install-heated-side-mirrors
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[post_modified] => 2011-02-24 23:46:07
[post_modified_gmt] => 2011-02-25 06:46:07
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => Special thanks for this write up goes to Fezzik (David Honey). 
PIC 2
PIC 3
PIC 4
-Prep. work, before you start installing you want to do a couple of things:
-If you are using the 5th gen lower and it has the swirl valve, remove everything so it’s just like the 4th gen (See PIC 4). Once it’s removed use some the JB Weld Stick to cover the holes so there will be no leaks. I just plugged the two outside holes (see pic the holes are highlighted in red.)
-Also you want to either fix or just prevent the VIAS from breaking by using the regular liquid JB Weld heres a link that explains what to do 
- For the next part you will need you grinder or dremel. You will need to grind down the coil pack mounting bosses BUT ONLY THE FRONT MOUNTING BOSSES#3 AND #5( SEE PIC ABOVE). #3 and #5 are the ones to the right of you if you are standing in-front of the car looking at the engine. Grind down as much as you need to just keep putting the upper manifold on to check for clearance. Once you are done clean up the mess you made grinding down the bosses.
- Next up is the PCV, you should have bought a new PCV valve one that would allow you to connect to some hoses. The hose’s outside diameter should be ½ inch for it to fit in the valve case hole tight and cut it to be about 6-8 inches long. You might have to lubricate the hose for it to slide in (at least that’s what my girl keeps telling me j/k lol).
- Note this is only for people that are keeping the EGR and 5th gen IACV:
Article By:sdot82
[post_title] => 4th-Generation Maxima: How to Install a 2000 VI Manifold
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[post_name] => 4th-gen-maxima-2000-vi-manifold-install
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[post_modified] => 2011-03-11 16:35:02
[post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-11 23:35:02
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => The following directions can be utilized in the installation of an Addco RSB onto a 5th Generation (2000-2003) Maxima. Installation onto a 4th generation (1995-1999) should be similar. It is recommended that two people perform the installation, but, one person could accomplish the task. Please view pictures with steps for additional detailed information.
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Pre-Installation: The installation of the intake requires the factory intake be removed all the way to the throttle body. The air inlet, air box + MAF, and breather hose will be replaced.
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Step 1: Remove the air inlet pipe by removing the two plastic screws with a Phillips head screwdriver. The whole air inlet should simply come right off.
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Step 2: Remove the five 10mm bolts that hold the airbox in place. Disconnect the MAF and disconnect the "quick ties" from the from the metal air box bracket and move the cable out of the way. Remove the breather hose by squeezing the hose clamp with pliers. Finally, using a flat-head screwdriver, loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body. The whole intake should come out at this time utilizing a little patience. See the image for step 3 to see the proper hose clamp to loosen at the throttle body.
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Step 3: The image to the left shows the complete factory airbox including the throttle body hose clamp not shown in step 2. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the metal bracket to the air box. Put aside as this will be utilized later.
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Step 4: Remove the MAF from the airbox by loosening the clamp holding the rear-section and removing this section. Remove the four 10mm bolts. From this step forward, be careful with the MAF as touching the inside may cause failure.
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Step 5: Install the billet MAF adapter to the MAF utilizing the 4 10mmx116 bolts. Install the 3.25" hose and two clamps to the other side of the MAF. Not Shown: Install 3" hose and two clamps onto the billet MAF adapter. Finally, install the last 3" hose and two remaining clamps onto the throttle body. Installing the 3" and 3.25" hoses takes patience. Again, be careful of the MAF when installing the hoses and billet adapter onto this section.
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Step 6: Connect the Upper Pipe to the MAF via the 3.25" hose side as shown in the image to the left. Slide the other end of the Upper Pipe into the 3" hose that has been installed onto the throttle body. Install the 16" breather hose onto the Upper Pipe and onto the proper engine outlet. Only tighten the clamps enough to hold this section together as this will allow movement for future steps. At this time, install the filter onto the lower pipe and tighten the filter clamp as this part will not need to be adjusted.
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Step 7: Slide the filter end of the Lower Pipe down in front of the radiator. For proper location, slide it in at an angle towards the battery. This will take some patience since the transmission linkage can hang it up somewhat. Once "in place", the pipe should somewhat line up with the upper intake section.
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Step 8: Once the lower section is in place, it should be mounted utilizing the 10mm hole slightly above and back of the radiator pipe. On vehicles with 6sp manual transmissions, there should be nothing utilizing this hole and the 10mmx25 bolt and washer should be utilized to mount the lower pipe utilizing some fancy finger work and the 10mm wrench. On vehicles with automatic transmissions, the transmission fluid pipe bracket is utilizing this mount point. For automatics, remove the 10mm bolt, bend the fluid tube slightly out of the way, position the lower tube mount behind the fluid pipe bracket, then install the 10mmx25 bolt and washer as mentioned above to mount both the lower pipe and fluid pipe bracket. This may require bending out the lower pipe bracket somewhat to allow adequate clearance for the fluid pipe. Once everything is mounted, take this time to tighten down all clamps.
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Step 9: Remount the Air Box metal bracket utilizing the 2 original 10mm bolts. On the MAF cable, carefully slide the "Quick Tie" back 3-4" and remount it on the metal bracket. Since the MAF is further away, I personally only utilized the one "Quick Tie" to hold the MAF cable in place.
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Final: Crank the vehicle and enjoy!!!!
Article by:audtatious
[post_title] => 5th-Generation Maxima Injen Intake Installation
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[post_modified] => 2010-01-29 20:56:12
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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[post_content] => The following information was researched via multiple Maxima FSM's. 
After: 
One of the most infuriating portions of my turbo quest has been figuring out what parts I need/have. Thus, as an addition to my NA->Turbo SR DIY, I figure a more organized parts list would be a good idea.
So, this is that list, divided into sections. I'm listing what is absolutely necessary to make the car run and be drivable, then the recommended list is to make it perform to its full potential.
Intake:
Filter - Any will do. Remember, this air is going through your turbo into your engine, keep that in mind.
MAF - Stock works unless you're running lots of boost, then a Z32 MAF is a good bet.
Intake tube - This should include a recirc point for the BOV and a line for the valve cover breather.
Turbo - Your choice, bigger turbos mean more air, which means more fuel and possibly more management work. For those of you running off of Nissan Parts Bin kits, keep in mind that Bluebird and Avenir T25s are different, with Avenirs having ball-bearings and a higher wastegate actuator setting stock (9psi instead of 7).
Turbo out pipe - Personally, I like how mine comes down off the turbo and towards the passenger side for my routing. I was even able to keep the AC so as to keep the ladies happy. However, I see lots of setups where it comes up and over the exhaust manifold, then down and around the front. Your choice.
Intercooler piping - Your size should match your turbo/boost level. For low boost applications, 2.25in will keep boost response up and leave a little room for more, but for those of you who like big turbos, invest in bigger piping. I run 2.5in for a 10psi T25 and get great response, for reference. There are piping kits available. Another option is to buy some stainless steel or aluminum exhaust piping with several 90* bends, a 45* or a few if needed, and some straight pipe.
Intercooler - This should also match your turbo. Try to match the in/out size to the IC piping you're running. Get a core that matches your hp goals. Most are advertised with the power they can support. Also keep in mind that huge ICs can cause pressure drop and cover up your radiator, increasing engine temps. FMICs are a good bet, but TMICs are more stealthy, though prone to heatsoak. A sidemount would be tough to fit.
BOV - Get whatever you want. If you get a Nissan one with your setup, you might as well keep it. It's noisy enough to give you a smirk on shifts, but quiet enough to keep the sleeper effect somewhat plausible (as if an intercooler grinning under the bumper doesn't advertise what's up ...). This is all a matter of personal taste, they all work the same. RECIRCULATE, please.
Misc. - Various hoses and silicon connectors for the pipes and tubes you need. A recirc line, IACV line, wastegate line, vc breather line (Get an oil catch can!), and that funny other line to the bottom of the intake mani near the TB for you B13/14 SR people. Sizes vary, measure your inputs/outputs and get however many feet you need.
Exhaust:
Manifold - Whatever comes with your setup. Make sure it matches your turbo, the output to T25/T28/etc is different than T3/T4/etc turbos.
Wastegate - Your call. If your turbo comes with one, use it, but if you want bigger, get a bigger one.
Downpipe - If your setup comes with a turndown off the turbo, use it unless you want more room. Everything should be at least 2.5in, preferably 3 if you're running much boost. Make sure to have two O2 bungs, one for your 1st O2 and the other for a wideband so you can tune. Backpressure is bad.
Catback - This should match the size of the downpipe. Bigger is pointless, smaller is stupid. Get one that flows well with straight through cores, that sort of thing. Keep in mind that this thing will be LOUD, so a resonator is recommended both for volume and tone. Without resonators, most cars sound tinny and ricetastic, and Sentras/NXs/whatever are no exceptions. Your resonator should be straight-through as well for best flow. I'll go ahead and say that my BRM Exhaust from our beloved owner Greg sounds great and flows well. Backpressure is bad. OBDII folks, keep in mind that you need to move your 2nd O2 bung behind the cat to stay legal.
To make this clear, BACKPRESSURE IS BAD FOR TURBOS.
Fuel/Management:
Injectors - Get injectors to match your boost level. Below 12psi, 370ccs will work. 34lb (360cc) MSDs are a good choice for top-feed people (B15), 370s from any other SR do nicely for side-feed people (B13/14). For higher boost, 50lb MSDs (B15) do nicely. Most B13/14 people get a top-feed fuel rail when they get to needing more than 370s. I believe JWT can help you out, or whatever source you may be able to find. I've heard of people making their own.
Computer - A piggyback like an SAFCII does the trick. Check the recommended list about this.
Wastegate control - If you're using a wastegate actuator that came with your turbo, just hook up the line and go. Those of you with boost controllers, read the instruction manual and bear in mind that more boost requires more fuel and management, as well as increases the wear and tear on your engine components. B15 guys, bear in mind that roller-rocker SRs do not have quite as strong of pistons/rods and have more of a tendency to shoot rocker arms at high rpms.
Misc.: Besides the aforementioned hoses, you will need...
Oil - An oil feed line of whatever size matches your turbo outlet and the hole you've tapped on the block. A multiport T off the sending unit is another must so you can feed the turbo. SPL has one with two ports, one for the engine, another for the turbo. Nissport and Tuner Toys make them with more ports.
Coolant - Lines for coolant, some rubber fuel hose from NAPA is cheap and easy.
Fittings - This is probably the biggest pain I ran into. If you have an aircraft supply shop nearby, you're in luck. ATPturbo.com has basically every fitting you need. It's kind of confusing still. With the T25, the oil inlet is -3AN. Ask people who have whatever turbo you have what fittings you need and be prepared to order/go hunting for these.
Injector connectors - If you're running MSDs bear in mind that they have a different plug on them that you'll need to solder into your wiring harness.. Autozone has the part, it's a GP Sorenson, part # 800-9213. Each Autozone will have one, at best, so be prepared to run around a bit or have them transfer them in from other stores. You need 4, one for each injector.
And now, the recommended list...
Highly Recommended:
Boost gauge - My VDO was something like $30, then I got a mounting cup for it. Works well, easily visible. I need to wire it up so I can see it at night. You'll need another hose for this, run it through the firewall on the passenger side near the glovebox, there's a grommet there you can pull out. Keep in mind that where it taps into determines whether you get vacuum or not. I suggest tapping in near the TB for the most useful measurement. Using a QuickTap from ATP will make this easy, as it just slids into one of your IC connectors. Your call.
Fuel pump - A Walbro 255lph is a good call. B13/14 guys have specific part #s, but there is no listing for B15s. B15 guys, either use a B14 pump (apparently it fits rather easily, I'm trying to dig up the install info for when I do this myself) or the in-line kit, PTI has both. Without this part you'll more than likely get an A/F spike at about 5200rpm (max power, oddly enough) to 12.5 no matter what you do with the SAFC, though it falls back to 11.5:1 (what we want) by 6000rpm and stays steady to redline. Mine spikes to 12.9 on occasion and that causes some detonation with the stock pump. Point being, if you can't afford/find a pump right now, either don't do the install or don't wind it out. Trust me, there's plenty of fun to be had in 3rd and 4th gear on winding backroads at 3000-4500rpm.
FPR - NISMO is a good choice, but they're not cheap. Your call. You'll need this to get the pressure right with that big pump, otherwise you'll run stupid rich.
Moderately Recommended:
Management - B15 guys, look into getting a JWT-tuned B14 ECU and rewiring to run it, B15 SR ECUs cannot be tuned. B13/14 guys, look into getting your ECU tuned by JWT. This way, the piggyback is just for fine tuning, rather than for the livelihood of the engine. Be careful with your ECU or it might decide it hates you and randomly malfunction (don't ask me how I know).
Suspension: A good shock/spring combo is definitely a good idea to keep you on the road with the new power. I like my Koni Yellow/Eibach Sportline combo. Coilovers would be even better. I hear good things about JICs (especially the FLTA2s) and TEINs, and lots of arguments about K-Sports. Many guys swear by Yellows and Ground Controls, claiming better handling than the coilover boys.
Wheels/Tires - Wheels should suit your style and budget, but more importantly, they should have space for the rubber you need to keep that power going to the ground. For B13/14 guys, you don't have as much room in the fenderwells, so a 15X7 or 16X7 would be great, though it may rub a little depending on your suspension. B15 guys get their one and only break here. With my Koni/Eibach setup, a drop of 1.5in and with not a whole lot of wheel travel, I easily fit 17X7s with 215/45/17s. NISMO wheels are 17X7.5, which would give you the option of a 225 series tire, though this will be close to rubbing, depending on suspension. As tires go, the stickier the better. Azenis are a good bet, but if you want to drive this thing year round and as a daily, and are budget conscious, I have to recommend some Falken Ziex Ze 512s. They handle my power for the most part (though wet+turning+WOT and we're off to crazy wheelspin land, even with the LSD), and RED_DET, our mod here, runs them around his 15"s on his B13 with 278whp with no complaints, wow. $74/tire for 215/45/17s and even cheaper for smaller sizes.
LSD - A limited slip is your new friend. Get one if you didn't have one stock.
Brakes - Please get some better stopping power. If nothing else, get some Hawk HPS pads. This isn't really necessary, but, like suspension, you need some way of keeping control with the added power. I went for a pretty strong route with Brembo slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and Technafit SS lines all around. I also run ATE Super Blue fluid. Speedbleeders will make this install easier. As I said though, some good pads will do the trick, make sure to bed them properly.
Transmission - B15 guys, you're in luck. B15s have the strongest trannies of USDM Sentras. P11 G20s share this transmission. B13/14 guys don't have this, but the stock transmission will hold quite a lot of power (RED is on the stock one with, as mentioned, 278whp). If your tranny is on the way out, look into getting a B15 or JDM one. However, everyone should look for a new clutch. My stock clutch is holding pretty well, but I don't think it'll last long. Look at the advertised power levels and get what suits your setup.
Other:
Lots of guys swear by the virtues of EGT gauges, being it that EGT is often a good measure of what's going on with combustion. Other gauges to look at would be Oil Temp and Oil Pressure, a better Water Temp gauge, Tranny Temp, and A/F Ratio.
A shortshifter wouldn't be a bad idea either, mostly because they're just that much fun.
Good fluids like Redline synthetic tranny oil, Redline Water Wetter, and Mobil1 Synthetic engine oil are always a good idea.
Those of you with G20s, things I mention for B15s also apply to P11 G20s (2000+) while B13/14 notes apply to P10 (before 2000) G's. This includes engine and transmission issues. Suspensions are different.
Parts Used For THIS Install:
Nissan Avenir exhaust manifold, ball-bearing T25 turbo, intake pipe, and BOV (or the same stuff from a Bluebird or GTi-R)
MSD 34lb/hr (360.4cc/min) fuel injectors top-feed, low impedance (or larger if upping boost past 12 or so PSI or using a bigger turbo)
JohnnyRaceCar 2.25in inlet/outlet front-mount intercooler
Intercooler piping (some stainless steel bends from an exhaust shop will do)
High temp silicon couplers for ic piping, including transitions up to the TB, BOV, and down to the turbo outpipe, if needed
Apexi SAFCII or AEM EMS or JWT-tuned B14 Sentra ECU
40in oil feed line, -3an with a 90* end on one end
7in oil return line (be safe and go with an 8, but don’t go bigger than a 10, I have a small leak because my 7 is not compressing right – now that I think about it, a 6 may do as well, if you’ve got lots of cash, get several size and see what fits you well)
tap for oil return on the block
oil sending tee (SPL has lowest price I’ve ever found)
new banjos and stuff for the turbo, check ATPturbo.com for all this kind little stuff
oil catch can or a breather filter if you’re going to ignore this or buy a can later
1in ID hose (get 2ft and cut excess) for BOV recirc
1/4in ID hose for line to wastegate actuator (get 3ft, cut excess)
1/4in ID hose for line from BOV to TB (2ft or so, cut excess)
1/4in ID hose for coolant feed/return (get 6ft, cut excess)
1/2in hose cap for un-used BOV opening (more explanation later)
turbo tap or quicktap for boost gauge feed
1/4in hose for boost gauge
boost gauge
GP Sorensen injector connectors (Autozone part# 800-9213, each store will have one, be prepared to drive around or wait a day or two to have them sent to your local store – supposedly Advance has them too, though mine didn’t)
Exhaust piping and a flexpipe for your downpipe, use 2.5in ID pipe at least, 3in ID for high boost apps
Flanges for downpipe (JWT has the ones you need, except the 2 bolt cat flange, check an exhaust shop for this)
FSM, clamps, plugs, nuts, bolts, sealants, electrical tape, solder, patience
Overall cost? Probably in the $2000-2500 range, plus countless hours soaked in God-knows-what and smelling like some cross between motor oil, rotting fish, and general death. I probably forgot some little stuff, you’d best have another car handy for runs to Autozone.
Think you’re ready?
Sad to say, I bet you’re not, but hopefully this write-up will alleviate the pain a little.
Prep:
Install SAFC:
Disconnect the battery.
There’s a box in the passenger corner of the engine bay right by the firewall. Remove it. Now, open it to find the ECU. Take the white clip thing off and push the black lever back from where it was to separate the wiring from the ECU.
Now, find the right pins, solder the SAFC wires in. 
32 is rpm signal, 35 can be used as well, using 32 you won’t be able to correct past 6000rpm - EDIT: Use pin 75, this signal avoids the lack of correction past 6000rpm while avoiding the summer overheating that can be caused by using pin 35
48 is ground
61 is MAF signal
110 is power
81 is knock
92 for throttle, 71 works too, but 92 gives you the flexibility of modifying this signal if you need to
The wires in the ecu should be uncut if at all possible. you can use the soldering iron tip to melt the isulation off. the only one that is hard to do is the clear one (forgot which one that is), it is heat resistant tubing. For solder, use somthing with silver in it, or a standard 40/60.I would not reccomend the lead free stuff because it is hard to work with at times and can be weaker.
The MAF wire has to be cut because it is routed through the SAFC.
If you have it available, you can use heat shrink tubing. it creates a better insulation, but can be risky because you have to heat it up to make it contract and cover the solder joint, and the wires have VERY little slack to work with so you run the risk of melting adjacent insulation (bad thing).In general, be cautious.
Perform the SAFC setup routine.
Take Stuff Off:
Remove the bumper, there’s several bolts, including some stuffed into the corner behind the bumper and between it and the fenderwell lining. It’s a beast, I have no idea how my buddy got to it, consult the FSM.
Remove the passenger-side plastic cover that runs around the corner of the bumper support and back towards the wheel. You’ll have to cut it into two pieces and remove the part that covers the coolant reservoir, your IC piping doesn’t want to play nice.
Go ahead and remove the foglamps, if you have them. Remove the screw on the top and just push from the back and they’ll pop right out.
Now, if the car isn’t in the air, go ahead and do that, the higher the better, and preferably all of it.
Remove the exhaust midpipe, start at one end and work to the other. There are several heatshields, but the bolts are easy to find.
Remove the stock intake system. It has a few brackets. If you had a CAI before, remove it and clean the filter if you plan on reusing that.
Remove the exhaust manifold. There are 4 each nuts on top and bottom, you’ll have to get some creative sockets set up, a rotating/bending socket attachment will be helpful here and later on.
Remove the passenger front wheel. You have to, don’t gripe.
Drill and tap for oil return:
This has been done a lot. It’s the exact same as on any other Sentra. I’m not going to get all crazy about it, Google it or email me for more specific questions. Get a friend or two to help you if you haven’t already. – pretty good article here -> 
Voila, the beam will come right down. Then engine will stay up on the two lateral mounts, but the jack is a good safety measure.
Now, remove the lower (steel, black) oil pan. I hope you drained the oil first.
Remove the oil pickup.
Remove the upper (silver) oil pan. Watch out for these bolts, they’re hard to get to, a small socket did the trick for us…
Now, drill and tap. Check the link earlier for specifics on this one. You pretty much just have to go for it.
Get a friend to help you and you can drill from the back (right under your crank with oil dripping on you, yay!) I drilled from the back, my hole ended up a little to the right/bottom, but it works.
Clean off the old RTV from the pans, put some new stuff on, and put it all back together, make sure not to overtighten the oil pan bolts, you’ll crack it, don’t ask me how I know.
Install banjos and stuff:
Oil return/oil feed
Coolant return/coolant feed
Pretty straightforward, it’s tricky to get in the hole for oil feed, make sure to have gaskets/copper washers, they should come with the kit (assuming you get the ATP turbo setup)… make sure your outlets match what you’re using for lines. Specifically get barbed coolant banjos.
Install coolant feed/return lines:
The throttle body has some coolant lines for warming it in extreme cold. I don’t plan on living anywhere cold, I hate cold weather unless I’m skiing. That said, I just removed these lines and ran some hose to the turbo from here.
Remove the throttle body (4 simple bolts), clean it with carb cleaner while it’s out.
Find the lines, disconnect the old hoses, put the new hoses where the feed/return was. Don’t worry which is which, coolant can flow either way in Garrett turbos.
Plug the barbs you just removed the lines from on the intake manifold, anything will work, there’s no pressure.
Reinstall the TB, the gasket should still be good.
Trim the tube thing:
There’s a stupid tube that will try to prevent you from dropping in the mani in the next step. There’s a rubber hose that runs from near the mani area to the valve cover. The lower hard pipe is what we’re talking about. Trim it back to where before it bends, reflare it if you feel such an urge. Mr. Dremel is your friend.
Install exhaust manifold/turbo/turbo turndown:
Make sure the turbo heatshield is on, you can’t get it on later. You may want to go ahead and extend the O2 sensor wires 3-4 inches now to save you the trouble later, as the Avenir O2 sensor plug doesn’t reach the wiring harness plug.
Remove the EGR tube that screwed into the old manifold, the new one doesn’t have it. You’ll have to re-route this later to pass emissions.
By the way, I’m assuming you’re keeping your AC. I’d have removed mine except the ladies would complain, and we all know an unhappy lady makes car rides not fun no matter what you’ve got under the hood. So much innuendo…
Work it down in there. There’s a rogue AC line that will try to stop you, show it who’s boss. You’ll probably beat the stew out of your radiator fan shrouds, sorry. It’s a tight fit. Trim the wastegate actuator bracket as necessary.
Connect oil/coolant lines to turbo. Also, connect the oil feed line to the oil sending unit, which is right near the oil filter. It’s pretty easy to spot. Screw your sending T into it and connect the stock line and the turbo line.
Bolt it in as per the FSM. Need an FSM? Go to 
Intercooler piping:
You’ll need several cuts and connectors for this. I’d suggest you run it out toward the passenger side from the turbo, around the bumper support jackstand point, around the front to the intercooler (comes with instructions on mounting), around the other bumper jackstand point up through the hole where your stock intake resonator was, then up right by the strut tower and over to the TB. Make sure to run the BOV the right way, fat side away from the intake mani.
You’ll need a hole somewhere after the intercooler for the intake temp sensor. Make sure to have a grommet to get a good seal.
Run the 1/4in line back to the TB area from the top of the BOV. Run the same-size line from the small side outlet down to the wastegate actuator.
Cap the one labled “WTF?” B15/P11 SRs don’t have a line running to the bottom of the intake mani just after the TB for idling purposes. Yay.
Install pre-turbo intake tube
The Avenir intake tube goes up toward your battery, turns back then again towards the driver’s side. Trim it before it turns to the right the last time somewhere to put the filter near the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure to plug the MAF back in. Refer to the general engine bay pic. To see this and the BOV routing, as well as where I put my intake temp sensor – 
Install Fuel Injectors:
Follow the FSM procedures for the most part.
Pop off the accelerator cables
Pop off the brackets.
Undo your fuel fill cap, otherwise you’re going to leak a lot of fuel. You’ll still leak a little bit, oh well.
Now you can get to the fuel rail. Remove the bolts. Raise the whole assembly out of the block, undo the injector clips to the rail and electrical pigtails and pull them out of the rail.
The MSDs are bigger and their electrical connectors are differently shaped. Splice the GP Sorensen connectors into your wiring harness. Get some longer bolts to attach the rail to the original points. Get spacers (can get them at Nissan) to cover the gap, 3-4 spacers per bolt will do.
There’s a hose that runs from the valve cover to a hardline behind the fuel rail. Remove it. Now, trim the nipple on the fuel rail about half its length. Don’t worry about any adverse effects or reflaring, the vacuum pulls the hose on harder in this spot.
You’ll need some new injector clips to clip them onto the fuel rail. Autozone sells some, GP Sorensen to the rescue again.
Put some oil on the o-rings of the injectors, slide them into the rail, then slide this assembly into the block.
Bolt it in. You may have to unbolt and move that rear bracket out of the way to get to the bolts. It’s a pain, a huge one.
Plug in your new injectors electrically. EDIT: If you use low impedance (2 ohm) injectors as in this example you'll need a 10 ohm resistor in the wire going into each injector. It turns out that B15/P11 injectors (not sure about B13 and 14 and P10s) are high impedance (12 ohms). Going without the resistor the car will run incurably rich because the injectors will essentially be stuck open every time they fire.
RE-EDIT, FINAL SOLUTION: I got some bunko info on the injectors needing to be high imp., they should be low, so the MSD bolt right in and don't need resistors, just different clips. Trust me, my car ran like crap with the resistors in. So, to be clear NO RESISTORS!
Refill with oil and coolant, replace the bumper and such (you may want to wait til you’ve checked for leaks), reconnect the battery and check the fuel system for pressurization by turning the key to the on position. Take this chance to program a good 12-15% low throttle fuel curve all around so that you can get it to a shop for dyno tuning. Drive VERY wimpishly til you get it tuned or you will blow your motor, do not use any more throttle than you have to. Absolutely do not go into high rpm or high throttle, keep it at 2000rpm or less as much as possible, to be safe. If you don’t have any leaks, you’re ready to start it up.
How can I tell if a car is an authentic 1967 model?
Although it is very uncommon, some have converted their 1967 1600’s to 2000’s in an attempt to scam potential buyers. One way to spot a fake is by examining the ID tag. 2000’s will have a chassis code beginning with SLR311. Insure both the chassis and engine begins with this, instead of SPL311, which was for 1600’s. A very obvious way would be to examine the dash. 1600’s had 120mph speedometers and 7000rpm tachometers instead of the 2000’s, which had 160mph speedometers and an 8000rpm tachometer.
In 1968, the roadsters were changed. The DOT mandated that there be a certain area swept by the windshield wipers. Therefore, the windshield was raised two inches to meet this requirement, as well as to resolve complaints about lack of head room in larger Americans. The dash was changed to meet passenger safety regulations, which also led to the disappearance of toggle switches. The door handles were recessed due to complaints of pedestrians being injured in low speed accidents by the 1967 door handles. Additional changes included a windshield mounted rear view mirror that replaced a dash mounted mirror, new body panels, floor, and cowl. Also, the fuse box was now placed in the glove compartment instead of under the hood.
Specs for the 1969 Datsun 2000 roadster:
Engine Location: Front
Drive type: Rear wheel
Weight: 1980 lbs.
Combined MPG: 22
0-60 mph: 8.4 seconds
Top speed: 108 mph
Engine: I-4
Model: U20
Solid Valve lifters
Aspiration/Induction: Natural
Displacement: 1982.00 cc
Valvetrain: SOHC
HP: 135 HP @ 6000.00 RPM
Torque: 132 ft-lbs @4400.00 RPM
HP to weight: 14.7 LB/HP
HP / Liter: 67.5 BHP / Liter
Bore: 87.1 mm
Stroke: 83.1 mm
Compression Ration: 9.5:1
Electronics: 12-volt electrical
Fuel type: Gasoline – Petrol
Fuel feed: Two SU-type carburetors
Block: Cast-iron
Head: Aluminum
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual with synchromesh gears
Final Drive: 3.70:1
Length: 155.701 inches
Width: 58.901 inches
Height: 52.201 inches
Wheelbase: 89.901 in
[post_title] => The History of the 1967 Datsun 2000 Roadster
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[post_name] => 1967-datsun-roadster-article
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[post_modified] => 2010-02-11 00:18:38
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[66] => WP_Post Object
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[ID] => 1324
[post_author] => 39
[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => Overview
Here's the correct procedure
1. Loosen alternator tensioner
2. Remove alternator tensioner
3. remove alternator belt
4. loosen waterpump/PS tensioner
5. Remove waterpump/PS tensioner
6. Loosen AC tensioner
7. Remove AC tensioner
8. Remove AC belt
-assemble in reverse order... and replace loosen with tighten
Helpful tips (PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU START)
1. Note how tight the belts currently are. When you reinstall them try and make them just slightly tighter. That's the best way I can describe how tight to make them, besides actually measuring the deflection.
2. Note the position of the tensioners. I put the alternator one on backwards the first time and that made an awful screeching noise - not good! Also, the tensioners are different, so be sure to keep them separate.
3. All of the tensioner adjustments can be reached from below. I tried from the top and you just can't do the water pump adjustment from the top. They're both easy to work with on the bottom, even easier with the nose of the car on jackstands.
[post_title] => Changing the Belts on an Infiniti Q45
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[post_name] => changing-belts-infiniti-q45
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[post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:37:19
[post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:37:19
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[ID] => 1329
[post_author] => 39
[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => By: Tangalora
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SUMMARY: 90-93 Q45 chain guide repair (hints, suggestions, procedures):
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Formulate a basic overview understanding of the situation at hand:
The whole chain is under tension; but we use tension & slack terminology.
The crankshaft pulls on the straight leg of the chain (the tension side).
Then (terminologically) the curved leg is "pushed" (i.e., the slack side).
The guides that were redesigned are the tension-side (straight) guides.
A new plastic tension guide sits on top of a new metal tension guide.
These two guides replace one guide (using longer bolts than original).
Light blue-gray RTV around the timing cover & oil pan is likely factory.
Red RTV would most likely indicate the cover was removed at one point.
The passenger side slack guide can be viewed by removing an engine porthole.
The slack-side (curved) guides don't generally fail & were not redesigned.
The guides on the driver's side are those that most often fail.
So, that would make the driver side tension guide the main failure item.
The original design used 2 guides per chain (slack-side & tension-side).
The new design uses three guides per chain (2 for 1 on the tension guide).
The slack-side guides were metal originally so new is almost identical.
The straight leg has enough tension it almost doesn't need a guide.
Even if the tension guide fails, the engine may run fine for a long while.
The plastic pieces may wedge between chain and sprocket.
The timing cover may crack (leaking oil profusely).
The chain can break.
The chain can skip a tooth (or two or three).
The main danger is a chain jumping a tooth causing valve timing changes.
Each cam gear tooth is 10 degrees (each crank gear tooth is 20 degrees).
One crank tooth or 2 cam teeth is the ragged edge of exhaust valve contact.
The second danger is pieces lodging under the chain (perhaps breaking it).
Chain guide slop may also cause engine-cover oil-chain "ears" to break off.
That loose "ear" lodges in the oil pump sprocket & cracks the timing cover.
Broken pieces that fall into the oil pan are also a potential problem.
Large pieces (which grind ever smaller) may clog (starve) the oil pickup.
Smaller pieces (grinding ever smaller) may score the oil pump vanes.
There are 2 oil chain guides, but 1 wears faster than the other.
The slack-side oil pump guide doesn't have a tensioner.
It's just set in place and has to be manually adjusted (i.e., replaced).
Generally you do not have to replace the timing chains.
If you replace timing chains, it will take twice as long to do the job.
If you replace timing chains, the valve covers will have to come off.
The toughest chainguide step is R&R of the 270 ftlb crankshaft-pulley bolt.
Do NOT put a chain wrench on the pulley & then tap the starter switch.
You may put a wrench on the bolt resting on something solid & tap the starter.
Byron at T3 apparently also takes the pulley off the power steering pump.
Most replace the oil pump but there isn't much evidence to show it's needed. It would be interesting to test oil pressure before & after oilpan cleanup.
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Read how to perform the job based on others' experience:
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Factory Shop Manual, Engine Mechanical section:
Note: I could barely understand the FSM so correct as needed.
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Photographic summary of a chain guide & oil pan replacement:
First, separate metal hinges, I used a screw driver and a pair of pliers, keep the solid pin.
Secondly remove the plastic hinges from inside the cavern where your glove box should be. Remove the hollow pins. Insert solid pin in the plastic hinge and wrap the arms of the metal hinge around the solid pin. Notice which
direction the arms wrap around the pin in coordination with the plastic hinge.
Pictured below.
Remove the remains of the old hinges , make it at least semi smooth, doesn't need to be perfect, just not too bumpy. Next, align the metal hinges centered basically where the old hinges existed. Drill pilot holes so the plastic doesn't split. Use sheet metal screws to fasten the hinges down, make sure not to over tighten, it'd probably strip out the screw holes!
Drivers side hinge pic 1
Drivers side hinge pic 2
Passengers side pic 1
Passengers side pic 2
Now, try installing it in the car. This is when we want to make sure everything lines up smoothly before we finalize the installation. If it doesn't line up quite right double check everything was done properly and try tweaking it, but if it went smoothly, it should, You're done! Unless you want to pull it back out, remove the screws on the metal hinges and put a drop of glue on them to help them seat in there a little tighter.
There you go, new glove box hinges on the cheap. If made properly they should last longer than just shelling out the cash for a new glove box door with the plastic OEM hinges.
By John "magus_blackomen"
[post_title] => Infiniti Q45 Glove Box Hinge Repair
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[post_name] => q45-glove-box-repair
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[post_modified] => 2011-03-12 21:54:13
[post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-13 04:54:13
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[ID] => 1347
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => Item:U12, U13 and AVENIR SR20DET/USDM SR20DE/JDM SR20DE
For decades, the aftermarket hot rod, racing and tuning communities have relied on oiled-media filters to free up that extra few horsepower. In fact, it's often one of the FIRST modifications many automotive enthusiasts do to their car. 
This next picture is of me drilling the hole in order to put the tube down for my CAI. My air filter is now sitting directly behind my running light on the left. By the way....BIG power difference with the intake.
In this next picture we are actually baking the headlamps to a temperature of 250 degrees for about 5 or 10 minutes. The allows the hot melt used to seal the lenses on to melt just enough for us to peel them off without damaging anything. The picture directly after that is of the headlamp with the lens off, prior to any modifications.
Finally it was time to start cutting. It just so happened that the hole previously used to put a cup over and seal up the old bulbs was the perfect size for our hole saw. It gave us a dead center hole with perfect placement and a guide for the saw. It also helped in aiming the light when we glued it in.
The next picture is of the headlamp with the hole cut in it and also a projector which we used to help us with some of the extra cutting we did. That is not one of the bi-function projectors and it has not been finished like mine are.
The next picture is of the projector placed in its final resting point in the housing. We used epoxy to glue it in place.
Now its time to put the lens back on.Its a little trickier than taking it off. We used a heat gun to melt all of the hot melt and then used black silicone to insure that it was going to seal.
Now the projectors needed to be sealed from large amounts of water getting inside. The only way we could think to seal it on this car, was by cutting a football in half and using the inner bladder to cup over it.
Questions, comments, or just want to talk about your Q45? Check out the 
The small 2 wire plug is the park neutral switch. To make the car start, you'll have to jumper those. The easiest way is to cannibalize the plug off the AT tranny harness. Then you can just connect the two wires together with a splice and plug it back into the chassis plug.
Next is to make your park and reverse lights work.
The middle plug of the three larger plugs is called the inhibitor switch.
(Back of the inhibitor switch)
The way the wiring of this plug works is like so: the green/blue wire is a constant voltage wire, and all the other wires run to gear sensors (park, neutral, reverse, 1st, etc).
Wire colors needed for operation:
Green/blue to complete the circuit
Brown/yellow for park
Green/white for reverse
If you look at how I've done my wiring, I have directly connected the brown/yellow and green/blue wires. This causes the car to believe it's in Park at all times, allowing the top to function. Then I spliced wiring into the green/blue line (that is what the blue box is for. It allows a wire to tap into another wire without having to cut it or solder it). The new wire was ran to one of the reverse plug wires. Then I ran a wire from the green/white wire. These wires were ran to the reverse sensor. When the shifter is put in reverse, the sensor will complete the circuit and turn the reverse lights on.
***NOTE: If you disconnected your brake lines to install the new brake pedal, bleed the lines!***
[post_title] => 240sx automatic transmission to 5-speed swap
[post_excerpt] => The 240sx 5-speed manual transmission swap is outlined in step-by-step detail in this article.
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[post_name] => automatic-transmission-manual-swap
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[post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:04:56
[post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:04:56
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[ID] => 1360
[post_author] => 39
[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => taken from dumbengineer.com
Removed 8 case screws, opened unit (clamshell), and mounted on plexiglass using original screws.
Using elastic, and holes in the plexiglass, mounted unit to visor so that I can see it with my visor down.
Using custom built blocks of wood, I lowered the visor by about an inch so the GPS could fit nicely out of the way when the visor is up.
The tension on the visor clips is enough to hold the weight of the GPS. I borrowed power from the unit that supplies power to the compass/reading lamps, and I mounted a 1" speaker pointed right at me.
All in all, this setup works quite well - I'm surprised garmin doesn't sell a unit like this. It's much more hidden and easier to mount than the big bulky unit they sell. It's loud enough to hear, though if the stereo is blasting I might only hear the alert tone and have to get the GPS to repeat the directions. With the visor all the way against the windshield, I can read the screen adequately and see the road. If I need to see the map better, I can pull the visor so it's vertical - I can still see the road like this, but less, so I try to avoid it while moving. The reception is ok in suburban areas, and on the highway I can even leave the GPS flipped up and just listen to it. I have been considering adding an extension to the current antenna, either with just a BNC extension cable, or making my own antenna which would just be a short wire on the windshield. I do lose reception in the city.
After building this, I realized I had no way to get the memory card in/out of the unit, so I cracked the plexiglass down the middle allowing it to flex. I used packing tape to keep it together and act as a hinge. It works pretty well, though I feel that I should re-construct this at some point.
I attached ends to the original power cable so that I can easily take the GPS out of my car and use it in another car. I have also modified the power connector to accept input on the serial line so that if I have another GPS in the car that has a better view of the sky, the Garmin will take data from the external GPS. This is for my potential vehicle tracking project, which will use a separate GPS.
[post_title] => Nissan Frontier Garmin GPS Installation
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[post_name] => nissan-frontier-garmin-gps-installation
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[post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:45:38
[post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 03:45:38
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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[post_content] => How to disable the automatic engagement of the A/C during defrost.
By:OffroadX
I don't know about anyone else, but there are times I want fresh air flowing out of the defroster vents without having the darn A/C kicking in. I got around to figuring it out today.
Items needed:
Medium size phillips-head screwdriver.
Very tiny phillips-head or flathead screwdriver, about eyeglass size.
1. Release (not remove) the gray plastic trim below the steering wheel, there are 2 screws at the bottom corners. You just need to get it loose so that you can push it down about 2 inches at the top around the steering column.
2. Remove the dash surround. There are 2 screws above the radio, and another two on the underside of the top of the gauge well. The smooth piece the second two screws go through comes out with it, there are 2 screws at the bottom edge of it as well, behind the gray trim piece you should have released in step 1. It will take a little tugging, but it will all come off cleanly. Disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses for the power mirrors, hazard lights, and rear defroster before you go yanking the thing completely off though!
3. Now you will see the white housing for the A/C controls secured by 4 screws. Remove the 4 screws (don't let 'em fall in the dash) and then push the left-hand side of the housing back so that you can slide it to the left. You may need to set your fan switch so that it is vertical to get the most freedom of motion.
4. Now that you have the housing as far to the left as you can, pull the right-hand side of it out a bit. The wiring harnesses and cables will prevent it from coming more than an inch or so out, but that's all you need. Notice on the upper right-hand side in back there is a small micro switch with about half a dozen small wires running to it. It is held in place from below by one tiny phillips-head screw about an inch long. You can see the tip of it on the top of the housing...
5. Remove the tiny screw from the bottom of the switch, taking _extreme_ care not to let it fall into the stereo below. Put something down there to catch it if you like, I folded a piece of paper into a pocket of sorts and slid it in below.
6. Move the switch to the top of the white housing, and screw it right back into the same hole from above, making sure that the metal lever is facing to the right or even a bit towards the front.
7. Replace the white control housing, making sure the switch isn't in a position that vibration may cause the switch to engage.
8. Replace the dash trim.
9. Reattach the lower dash panel under the steering column.
10. Enjoy complete control over your HVAC system!
[post_title] => Nissan Frontier and Xterra Disable Auto A/C Defrost Function
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[post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:05:15
[post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:05:15
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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[post_content] => from nissan offroad
I have provided this How-To because the chrome plating on the Frontiers grille is notorious for bubbling and peeling.
Many people also replace their front bumpers and wish to paint their grille to match.
Grille Removal
1. Open your hood and undo the four clips that secure the top of the grille to the hood latch cross member.
To release these clips insert a flat head screwdriver into the slot on each clip and turn counter clockwise.
You will also have to pull outwards on the grille while releasing these clips.
2. Loosen the front turn signals by removing the screw located directly above the lens.
You don't have to completely remove the lenses; you only need enough room for the grille to be able to slide past the lenses.
3. The 3 clips that hold on the bottom of the grille are designed differently than the clips on top. The bottom clips are a bit tougher to get off. One at a time place your hands as close to each clip as possible and pull outwards. It takes a good deal of force to get them loose and when they come out it sounds like you broke something. You can’t really see how the clips operate when the grille is on so check out the pictures in figure 2 and figure 3 to get a better idea of what you are working with.
4. Remove the Nissan Emblem from the center of the Grille by gently prying upwards around the edge with a small flathead screwdriver.It should come off fairly easy since it is only held on with double-sided tape.
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Painting the Grille
1.Prepared the grille for painting by spraying it with WD-40 and scrubbing it with an abrasive pad. You can use whatever you like to remove the bugs and tar but I have found that WD-40 works better than Bug and Tar remover.
2. Wash the grille with soap and water to remove the WD-40 residue.
3. Scuff the entire surface of the grille (give the chrome extra attention) with a scotch-brite pad or fine grit sandpaper. I purchased a scotch-brite pad/sponge at my local grocery store.
4. Wash the grille again with soap and water.
5. Rub the grille down with an alcohol soaked lint free cloth. Once the alcohol has evaporated you are ready to paint.
6. Be careful not to touch the surface of the grille with your hands. Oil from your hands will cause the paint to be repelled from the area that was touched.
7. Choose a high quality paint such as Rustoleum and most importantly…Take Your Time! If you have completely covered all of the chrome with paint on the first coat then you are going way too fast. I applied 8 coats of paint over a two-day period. The grille was completely covered with paint by the sixth coat.
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Grille Re-installation
1.Reinstall the grille by removing the black clips from the hood latch cross member and inserting them into the grille.
2. Once the clips are installed in the grille simply snap the grille back into place.
3. Reinstall the turn signal lenses.
4. Reinstall the emblem using automotive double-sided tape or a weather resistant glue.
[post_title] => Nissan Frontier Grille Removal and Painting
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[post_name] => nissan-frontier-grille-painting
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[post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:05:26
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => from Nissan Offroad
Installers Notes
This installation was performed by a certified mechanic and the owner of the
vehicle pictured. At no point do we recommend altering or otherwise changing
the geometry of the rear bumper system. If you feel you are unable
to safely install this piece of equipment, please see a certified Vehicle
Technician or your Local Nissan Dealership for Installation.
Installing a hitch on your Nissan Frontier is an easy process, assuming you use the proper hitch and tools
and you have a friend to help. Hitches are typically designed for specific makes and models of vehicles
(in some cases, for specific trims on the same model). When ordering a hitch, be sure to request the
hitch specific to the vehicle you own.
*For information on Towing safety and choosing the proper hitch, 
The bumper won't fall freely, The three bolts that are holding it in
place on each side are all connected via a bracket. This assembly must be slid part way out of the
frame in order to release the bumper. (The bracket can be seen in the top left photo)
Once the Bumper has been removed, set it aside and concentrate on installing the Hitch
itself.
The hitch comes with several pieces of mounting hardware that go in a VERY specific order.
Care should be taken that you get the right hardpoints in the right holes.
Slipping the hard points and bolts into the square frame member can be tricky, take care not to push them so far into the frame that you can't retrieve for re-alignment if you need to! (we used a long flat head screw driver to push them into place)
be sure the bolts are seated properly in the square holes on the hard points.
Once they are installed, they will look like this (note the size differences
in the hard points. Smallest to the BACK)
Once you have them seated in place, replace the bumper. It is important to replace the Bumper BEFORE you install the hitch for ease of installation (we learned this the hard way)
Note: the installation bolts for the hitch hanging
loose while the bumper is tightened back into place
with an impact wrench.
Be sure to torque the bumper bolts down to the proper specifications. The bumper is a SAFETY DEVICE on the truck and great care should be taken to ensure it is installed correctly and all bolts are tightened to OEM Specifications.
Once it is in place and tight, place the hitch on your stomach and slide under the truck, orientating the hitch in the position it is to be installed. Have your friend hold one side of the hitch up while you hold the other side up.
Align the bolts and hand tighten the nuts in the hitch. Now, move to the other side, and relieve your friend. Hand tighten these bolts.
The hitch should now be hanging from the bolts on either side.
Using your impact wrench (or wrench) tighten the bolts according to manufacturer's specs.
This hitch is gong to be, potentially carrying a LOT of weight, make sure you
get the bolts properly tightened.
Your hitch should now be installed and you should be ready to wire the lights! (which will be
the second part of the install)
DISCLAIMER: DIY AT YOUR OWN RISK. NICO CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE DURING OR AFTER YOUR INSTALLATION.
[post_title] => Nissan Frontier Drawtite Hitch Install
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[post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:45:56
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[post_content] => This past weekend (4/12/03) I completed installation of an electric lock on the tailgate of my 2002 Frontier. My friend CarlP was of enormous help in the planning and completion of this. It already had locks, but they were not electric. It was extremely straightforward and can be done with not more than a screw driver, a wrench, and pliers.
All in all it took under 3 hours and cost less than $10.
1. Bought door lock actuator kit 742 from 
4. Looking directly inside the access panel, you can see the entire mechanism. There are 2 main bolts (RED ARROWS, below) sticking up on either side. The door actuator kit comes with some slotted piece of metal - I had to use a drill to make holes slightly bigger than the slots. The plate was mounted as far left as it could go. Also, the plate to mount the actuator needed to have a twists in it (GREEN ARROWS, below) so that the nuts could come down flat and the rest of the plate would avoid piece of the door handle mechanism
5. The actuator (PURPLE ARROW) was mounted to the left, on the included plate. The rod from the actuator was bent about 35 degrees (RED DASHED LINE) such that it comes under the door opening mechanism, towards the piece that moves when you turn the key.
6. The piece that moves when you turn the key has a nice peg sticking up from it. What I did was just to bend a loop in the actuator rod so that it fits tightly around the peg (YELLOW ARROW). The throw of the actuator is a little short, so you have to put the bend in exactly the right spot. When in the "unlocked" mode, the actuator will actually cause the handle to be about 95% engaged - more than enough to transfer the force of the handle to the unlatching mechanism. The blue outlined area is the part that no longer engages because of the actuator, but as you can see, the green outline area is more than enough. When the door is "locked," the piece with the peg (which is attached to the green box area) slides to the right, so that the green box is entirely clear of the unlatching mechanism. Thus, you can pull the handle as much as you want and it won't unlatch the door.
So, now my tailgate unlocks whenever the back left door does. This is very useful to me as I have a tonneau cover and like to store stuff in the bed that I might want to access while the truck is running. If somebody was very motivated, they could find my wires and apply +12/ground to the right ones and unlock all the doors in my truck, but if they were that motivated they could also smash my windows... then they'd just have to wrestle with the ignition disabler on my remote starter.
[post_title] => Nissan Frontier Electric Tailgate Lock Install
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[post_name] => nissan-frontier-electric-tailgate-lock-install
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[post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:27:14
[post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:27:14
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[post_content] => This describes the removal and installation of the rear O2 sensor behind the catalytic converter for 95-99(Federal Emissions) Maxima/I30s.
Items Needed:
PB Blaster (or other rust penetrant)
22mm Wrench
Flat Head Screwdriver
Electrical Tape
Jack and Stands
Work Light
First you will need to remove the bad O2 sensor. Use generous amounts (frequently) of the rust penetrant on the sensor where it goes into the exhaust pipe (bung).
While allowing the the penetrant to work, follow the wire from the back of the sensor to where it goes into the floor panel. Use a screw driver to pry the large rubber grommet from the floor pan. Once the grommet is loose, disconnect the plug that attaches the sensor to the harness.
Now use the 22mm wrench to remove the bad sensor from the bung. Continue using the penetrant as needed. This is the hardest part of the process (especially if you live in a snow state).
This is what you should be looking at once the bad sensor is removed.
What emerged in showrooms in March of 1992 was a stunningly beautiful vehicle. An aggressive front end, with an ovoid grill and flush projector beam headlights, flowed into a coupe-like roofline that culminated with a smooth sloping decklid and full-width taillights. The 1993 Infiniti J30 was striking from any angle.
Under the DURASTEEL® body panels (steel with 50% more corrosion-resistant plating thickness), the interior of the J30 was every bit as impressive. Designed at the Nissan Technical Center in Atsugi-City, Japan, the standard leather-appointed interior was highlighted with subtle wood accents. Dual power seats, inclusive power accessories and keyless entry completed the package. The 200-watt Bose Audio System, with in-dash CD, was also standard on all J30’s.
Occupant protection was important to the design teams. Standard safety features included driver and passenger air bags (later upgraded to include side air bags), pre-tensioning seat belts, and four-wheel disc brakes with anti-lock control.
A 210-horsepower engine powered all J30’s. Based on the 3.0-liter DOHC 24-valve aluminum alloy V-6 used in the Nissan 300ZX, the version under the hood of the J30 was further refined. The intake and exhaust manifolds were modified while Nissan’s SOFIS (Sophisticated Optimized Fuel Injection System) was added for improved drivability, cleaner emissions, and reduced noise and vibration. The J30 engine utilized variable valve timing, and a direct ignition system with platinum spark plugs for reduced maintenance.
The only available transmission was an electronically controlled four-speed overdrive with a lock-up torque converter. A DUET-EA interactive transmission control system helped ensure smooth gear changes and eliminate shift shock by retarding engine power between shifts.
The rear-wheel-drive J30 featured an advanced four-wheel independent suspension highlighted by a precision tuned front strut-type and multi-link rear. Front and rear stabilizer bars were standard, and they kept excellent control of the body as it rode on the standard 6.5JJ-15 cast alloy wheels wrapped in 215/60-15 tires. A high-performance viscous limited-slip differential was standard.
In addition to the “base” model, a J30t (for Touring) was available. It offered of version of the Super HICAS (High Capacity Actively Controlled Steering) system found on the Q45. The system used a precise, computer-controlled hydraulic rear steering unit on the rear wheels. At high speeds, the rear wheels were steered up to one degree in the same direction as the fronts. At low speeds, the system would momentarily turn the wheels opposite the fronts (to help point the J30t into the turn) before turning them in-phase. The sporty J30t also received revised spring calibrations, new alloy wheels, and a rear spoiler.
As expected, purchasing the luxury and technology found in the J30 wasn’t easy on the pocket. For most of the production years, the base price hovered just below $40,000. On a positive note, the beautiful J30 came relatively loaded in base form. Optional features on cars from Lexus and Acura were standard on the Infiniti. Leather, anti-lock brakes, dual airbags, and CD player rounded out an impressive list of standard features.
Behind the wheel, the J30 is an effortless cruiser. At 3,500 pounds, acceleration with 210 horses is adequate but not neck-snapping. The ride is very controlled, and cornering is stable. Keep in mind you aren’t going to win (or even enter) an auto-x with the J30. It’s a luxury touring vehicle, not a sport sedan.
Today, you’d be hard-pressed to find an example of the J30 with fewer than 75,000 miles on it. A near mint example with 100,000 clicks on the odometer will likely cost about $6,500 - less if you want to compromise condition. Of course, you can find used J30’s for much less, but don’t settle for one without consistent maintenance records as repairs can really add up once systems start to fail. Find the right car, at the right price, and you own a striking example of Infiniti luxury.
[post_title] => The History of the Infiniti J30
[post_excerpt] =>
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[post_name] => j30-history-and-introduction
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[post_modified] => 2015-12-02 23:13:06
[post_modified_gmt] => 2015-12-03 06:13:06
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[post_content] => - Nissan KA24 install article. By Danny Youngs
Nissans KA24 motor can be installed into the Datsun 510 in many different ways
and forms. In this article I will cover every facet of installation and the different
parts you can use to do this. I studied many different ways of doing the install before
I actually did mine. I tried a few different ideas myself while installing the motor. I have
added reference pictures from my collections through-out this article.
This motor is very popular because of what it offers, and the increasing availability.
Many donor cars are starting to show up in the wreckers, and there is also a large supply
of KA24's becoming available from 240sx owners doing the SR20DET swap into their cars.
In stock form it produces a large amount of power and impressive torque compared to the
L-series motor. It would take a very carefully built L-series motor to equal the power and
torque of the KA24. It has a very fair redline and will easily spin the tires in lower gears.
If you are converting from the average L20b with mikuni's or built L16/L18 you will be happily
surprised.
In the first section I will go over the different types of KA motors. The next section
will cover the installation of the motor.
section 1:
- The Different breeds of KA24.
Pic of a 89/90 240sx KA24E using Mikunis. Pic from 
Pic of Dan Gallmeister's 89/90 240sx KA24E conversion.
Pic of a bone stock KA24E truck motor. Notice rear sump pan.
Pic of a 91-94 240sx KA24DE, going into a 510. Submitted by Kim Woo from Fresno, CA
Pic of a 91-94 240sx KA24DE conversion by Mike and Bill Kenyon of Vallejo, CA.
The KA24 motor comes in two moderately different styles. First is the 12 valve,
single cam KA24E engine, and second is the16 valve twin cam KA24DE engine.
The blocks are essentially the same, but the cylinder heads are quite different.
Both engines are EFI motors, except for some very rare exceptions to Non-U.S.
spec 12 valve truck engines that were carbureted.
First engine I will cover is the 240sx 12 valve. This engine is found in all 1989-1990
U.S. spec 240SX chassis. This is the most popular engine to swap into the 510 in
EFI form. It has a larger more attractive two piece intake with a side draft forward
facing throttle body. The upper pieces of the manifold has ECCS engraved on it,
which is Nissan's EFI system for that era. You will want the 5 speed tranny version
most likely. The exhaust manifold exits very rearward towards the firewall. This engine
also has a girdle that connects all the main bearing caps together inside the crankcase. The
oil pan is a front sump style on this engine. The block casting engulfs the entire surface
where the tranny mates. The pulley and belt systems uses a modern grooved serpentine
belt. These engines were cast and manufactured in Japan.
section 2:
- Installing the KA24 into the 510 chassis.
There are many different ways that you can install this motor into your 510. The other interesting
fact is that if you choose to do your brackets one way, it doesn't really dictate what pan you need
to use or what tranny crossmember, or even what tranny you need to use. This enables you to work
at your own pace and choose junkyard parts or fully custom parts. You can get virtually every part
you need from the junkyard or wrecker.
First I will cover the brackets. There are basically three different ways of doing this. The most
popular way you will see is using the stock 240sx brackets. These brackets have the same placement
on both the single and twin cam motor, and they will also bolt to the truck block. You can mount these
onto the stock 510 rubber motor mounts. The trick is to move the rubber mounts down so the top bolt
holes on the mount bolt in to the lower threaded holes on the crossmember mounting surface. This is a very
good solution and you will notice that the rubber mounts only bind ever so slightly, not enough to even notice
really.The motor sets at a very appropriate height this way. The second way is getting some custom
brackets made for your install. The third way is using the stock truck engine brackets which make the
engine set very low and the rubber mounts bind a little more than you might like. I have also seen people
use a variety of different Nap-Z, L-series, and KA brackets, with different sized spacers to get the engine
where they want it. You will notice the block has bolt holes to accommodate different brackets.
Dan Gallmeister's 510 using stock 240sx brackets.
My 510 using stock 240sx brackets.
Randy Yorks 12 Valve install using custom brackets.
Of course the oil pan is always an issue in any motor install. You have a few different choices in this
category. The most popular route is using the front sump pan and losing the stock sway bar. You
can do this by installing a reversed front crossmember. You can either cut and re-weld the center section
of the crossmember in backwards, or cut out and re-weld the a-arm pivots in backwards. The crossmember
will bolt in either way. This allows the engine to fall right in with the front sump pan on it. The KA truck block
will also accept the front sump pan. You can either run without a sway bar, have a custom sway bar bent to
fit, or use a custom 3 piece racing bar which are available. You can also break open the wallet and get a
custom rear sump oil pan made. The main issue with the stock truck rear sump pan fitting is center link
clearance, and ground clearance. Forget about reversing the center link, cause it will be even more in the way.
You can notch the back of the truck pan to clear the center link, and it will work, but the pan also hangs low
to the ground. No more speed bumps at all! People have also used a conglomeration of cut up L16 pans
and KA pans to make something work. Dry sump systems are also available for the KA, but are extremely
expensive and overkill for a street application.
Randy York's 510 with custom oil pan, this retains the front sway bar.
16 valve KA using carbs. Notice the front sump pan and reversed crossmember.
Mike Kenyon's custom Speedway Engineering front sway bar setup. Car uses a HL510
front crossmember with front sump pan.
Dan Gallmeisters custom bent sway bar setup.
Which transmission do you want to use? The most likely choice is the factory KA 5 speed that came
with your motor. This tranny fits perfectly fine and uses many of the same bolt spacings and patterns as
the ever so popular Z-speed. The KA slave cylinder works just fine with the 510 clutch master cylinder.
You can even make that cut up, slotted, and spaced out tranny crossmember you have work with the
KA tranny. There are a few custom crossmembers available that make it bolt right in with either a 240Z
insulator or a stock 510 4 speed insulator. The driveshaft needs to be shortened, even a little bit more than
for a Z gear box. The tranny tunnel will need to be cut quite a bit to fit the bulky shifter mechanism up into
the tunnel. Some clearance is also needed on the sides of the tunnel with a hammer for the large bolt heads
that are on either side of the transmission towards the rear. Nothing that can't be handled in a few minutes
though.You can also use a normal Z 5 speed gearbox on a 12 valve motor by using a Nap-Z bellhousing
from a Z20, Z22 or Z24 with a manual gearbox. This allows you to use your existing driveshaft that was
shortened for a Z 5 speed conversion, and your existing cut shifter hole and mechanism assuming you
already had a Z 5 speed in the car.
My car using 280ZX 5-speed, Z24 bellhousing, and a Dave Carrol 5 speed crossmember.
What about the radiator? You are pretty much home free in this category. Anything will work. I would tend
to shy away from the smaller units such as the rabbit or even the stock two row. A stock style 3 row will cool
it just fine. If you take your old grungy stock two row to the radiator shop they can construct a three row out
of it and ad a upper coolant inlet on the other side. Any of the larger VW units, or the fiero radiator should
work great. A lot of these radiators have the inlet on the upper drivers side which means you will have to run
a crossover tube to get to the coolant outlet on the KA which is on the passenger side coming out of the
intake manifold.
Single cammer with EFI using a Fiero style radiator unit.
[post_title] => How to build a $40 windsplitter
[post_excerpt] =>
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[post_name] => build-windsplitter
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[post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:06:38
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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[post_content] => Replacing the Thermostat on a VG30ET
by:winez31
1: drain the coolant by unbolting the coolant temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator. It will have two wires coming out of it just follow them up and unplug it.
2: unscrew and remove the hose clamps from the small hose thats connected to the thermostat housing.(this is a good time to replace that hose because they are known to leak)
3: now remove the hose clamp that connects the hose to the radiator. then romove the hose.
4: there are 3 bolts that hold the housing together. Unbolt those and remove the top half of the housing. You might have to scrape off some gasket sealer around the outside of the housing.
5: now switch out the old thermostat with the new, and replace the gasket.
6: now do everything in reverse.
[post_title] => Z31: Replacing the Thermostat on a VG30ET
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[ping_status] => open
[post_password] =>
[post_name] => 300zx-thermostat-replace
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[pinged] =>
[post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:29:07
[post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:29:07
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[post_content] => Wilwood Big Brake Installation and review by Fahaka:
A good thrill can come from many different sources. Perhaps your thrill may come from a fast roller coaster or riding horses or, as in my case, a fast car. In fact a fast car can be extra thrilling if it is a car that you have built yourself. In the case of the 240sx, we are often turning a cool looking poser into the capable sports car that many of us feel it should have been in the first place. In the process of making the 240sx faster we often raise the level of performance to the point where further modification to the suspension and brakes are necessary to keep the car safe.
Better brakes and suspension are usually the first modifications most of us make in anticipation of increasing power from under the hood. A fast rear wheel drive car with an overwhelmed suspension and brakes can be a recipe for disaster. Even with stock power, many new comers to the “S” chassis find themselves replacing multi-link suspension components, as their first modification, because they have under steered into a curb or over steered into an embankment.
After the suspension has been modified, more experienced drivers will testify that the stock 240sx brakes are a little undersized for continuous track duty or even spirited driving. Several options for brake upgrades are available for the 240sx, weather it be in the form of OEM products or after market upgrades that can improve brake performance.
Many people may have experienced the thrill of fast acceleration that you get from high horse power cars, but many may be surprised to feel the thrill you can get from extreme brakes. The ability to stop now, at any time from high speeds in surprisingly short distances can be exhilarating; in much the same way as acceleration can be thrilling.
Dave Epstein, a self proclaimed “Z” freak and owner of ArizonaZcar.com, has been involved in Nissan after market performance for more than twenty years, and has built a reputation for making Z cars go faster. Dave made a name for himself selling racing brakes for Z cars to make them more competitive on the track. Fortunately for us, many of the parts made for Z cars can also be used on the 240sx, specifically the brakes.
Upon meeting Dave and several of his close friends, I was promptly escorted to a 1971 240Z that was heavily modified and they all wanted me to feel how good its 13” wilwood brakes worked. We took a trip out to the local meet and left with a group of Corvettes, a Viper, and an R32 skyline. After repeatedly trouncing all comers with his super-fast turbocharged Z, Dave's friend would stab the brakes, from speeds approaching 150mph, with mind altering results. I was immediately sold on these brakes and needed no further convincing.
Dave offers three different brake kits for the 240sx:
Kit # 1 includes:
12.2” rotors with Dave's own aircraft grade billet aluminum rotor centers in both four and five lug patterns, Your choice of either forged or billet aluminum 44mm (for the front kit) or 35mm (for the rear kit) four piston calipers, Aircraft grade billet aluminum mounting brackets, Grade 8 zinc plated fasteners and hardware, Wilwood racing brake pads and stainless steel braided brake lines. This kit is available for either front or rear brake applications.
Cost = $795 per axle
Kit # 2 includes:
13” rotors with Dave's own aircraft grade billet aluminum rotor centers in both four and five lug patterns, Your choice of either forged or billet aluminum 44mm four piston calipers, Aircraft grade billet aluminum mounting brackets, Grade 8 zinc plated fasteners and hardware, Wilwood racing brake pads and stainless steelbraided brake lines. This kit is available front brake applications only.
Cost = $1100 per axle
Kit # 3 includes:
13” rotors with Dave's own aircraft grade billet aluminum rotor centers in both four and five lug patterns, billet aluminum 44mm six piston calipers, Aircraft grade billet aluminum mounting brackets, Grade 8 zinc plated fasteners and hardware, Wilwood racing brake pads and stainless steelbraided brake lines. This kit is available front brake applications only.
Cost = $1400 per axle
According to Dave these kits have been specifically designed to work with the stock master cylinder and no other modifications are necessary. Furthermore when front and rear brake kits are purchased Arizona Z car will include a brake proportioning valve (for the rear) and a line lock to replace the parking brake which is eliminated by this kit.
I chose to go with kit #1 for the rear and kit #2 for the front. Arizona Z Car stocks all of the kits and usually has them available for immediate shipment. I purchased the kits from Dave and helped him assemble the kits in his warehouse (He doesn't usually do this). For all the Arizona people these kits can usually be picked up the same day from Dave's warehouse in Mesa. Typical ship times are 1-2 weeks if the parts are in stock.
Installation:
I installed this kit on my '89 coupe, but the installation should be roughly the same for S13/S14/Z32/Q45...etc applications. After getting the kit home I first prepped the car for Installation. Since I had already decided to do the rear brakes first (as there is more work involved), I chocked the front wheels, broke the rear lugs loose and lifted the rear of the car at the differential and supported the car with jack stands at the pinch welds in front of the rear wheels.
1.Remove the rear wheels.
2.Remove the cotter pin from the axle castle nut and the retaining plate.
3.Loosen but do not remove the 36mm axle bolt (It is a pain if you don't do it now).
4.Remove the caliper and disconnect the brake line (I used a plastic water bottle to catch the fluid that will drip out) and the parking brake cable.
5.Remove the brake rotor and the axle nut.
6.Remove the four bolts that hold the hub to the spindle (this is a great time to do a five lug swap), and remove the hub. I did this by disconnecting the upper control arms and pulling the axles out of the spindle, but this is not necessary.
7.Using a cutoff wheel, remove the factory caliper mounts from the spindle. The final result should look like this:
8.Remove the factory brake lines after they have stopped leaking and install the braided lines.
9.Reattach the hub, with the supplied fasteners and sandwich the new caliper mounting plate between the hub and spindle:
10.Mount new Rotors to the hub attach the brake lines to the calipers and mount the calipers.
11. Bleed the brakes (I used a $3 brake bleeding tool that I purchased to bleed the brakes I highly recommend them they work great).
12.Disconnect the parking brake cable from the cabin and the undercarriage and discard.
13.Put the wheels back on and torque them down. Note the 12.2” brakes clear S14 SE Alloys better than 300zx brakes.
At this point you can relax because the hard part is done. To complete the front brakes, break loose the front lugs and jack the car up at the radiator support and place jack stands to either side of the jack at the radiator support.
1.Remove the front wheels.
2.Remove the calipers and disconnect the brake lines.
3.Remove the rotors
4.Attach the “Dog Bone” Mounts to the factory caliper mounts with the supplied hardware, be careful to follow Dave's instructions here, as a misplaced washer will require re-installation.
5.Mount the new rotors, attach braided brake lines to the calipers and mount the calipers.
6.Bleed the calipers.
7.Mount the wheels, and enjoy.
The results are spectacular. Pedal modulation is very precise. I have not yet installed the proportioning valve yet so the brakes are slightly biased towards the rear, but only lock slightly before the fronts. Threshold braking is easy because of the pedal feel, and repeated stops from high speed have resulted in no fade at all from these brakes.
I have had to be careful while driving on the freeway. Several times I have come up on stopped traffic in the high speed lanes and had to be careful not to out brake the cars behind me. I previously had a S14 with a set of 30mm 300zx brakes with hawk pads, braided brake lines and blue brake fluid and factory rear brakes with braided lines and hawk pads. I used the same tires and tire size as what I am using now (245/45/17 Falken RT-615’s) and there is no comparison in feel and capability. I hear many people say that factory or 300zx brakes is all that is necessary, but there is a reason they use these type of brakes on expensive exotic cars, to have awesome braking feel and ability.
Lastly I stopped by AZhitman’s place shortly after the install. The car was not really running right, but I wanted to show off the new brakes to Greg. I will let him testify to their worth, but while in the car he seemed to be very impressed.
Modified by Fahaka at 7:27 PM 8/28/2006
[post_title] => Wilwood Big Brake Installation 240sx
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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[post_content] => Here’s a little write-up on how to remove the Cooling Unit from your G50 Q45. The Cooling Unit is where the AC evaporator is found as well as the expansion valve. I’m starting with the glove box already removed, since most of us have done this and to help keep this short and sweet. I’ve included a few pictures to help you visualize the write up. I’m following what I did and I do not claim to be a Q45 mechanic.
Tools you’ll need:
Large crescent wrench
17mm wrench
12mm wrench
19mm wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Ratchet
Extension
10mm socket
12mm socket
Razor blade
First thing I did was remove negative cable from the battery post then released the pressure from the AC system (officially vacuumed the system since simply releasing freon is strictly against the law!!) so I could remove the high and low pressure lines at the firewall in the engine compartment. In the picture below you’ll see the big low-pressure line, which I unfastened first. This is where I used the large crescent wrench. (32, 30mm)
Now in order to get at the high-pressure line directly below the bigger low-pressure line I remove the bracket in the picture below by removing the nut. (Replace the nut when the bracket has been removed so you don’t lose it)
With the bracket unhooked it’s easy to move and manipulate the lines to get to the smaller high-pressure line directly below the high-pressure line you just unfastened. The 17mm wrench and 19mm wrench are needed here. Now I would suggest wrapping the ends of lines from the engine compartment with duct tape to keep the critters out.
Now in the car behind the glove box is a back wall, which you will have to remove using the Phillips screwdriver. There are a number of screws including two plastic screw fasteners at the top. Once all the screws are out pull the wall down and place all your screws where you won’t loose them. You should now be looking at this:
To the right you can see your blower motor and in the middle is the cooling unit, which you’ll be pulling right out shortly. Looks like it’s really in there doesn’t it? Don’t worry; it’s not all that bad. That bar will be coming out but first you’ll have to move over to the right and remove the trim you see here and it’s very easy:
Next the bar comes out. There are a few different screws that have to come out and once 10mm nut comes off to the right. Just follow the bar and you’ll see all the screws and bolt that have to come off:
It’s almost done!! Going back to this picture there are a few connectors to disconnect and 6 screws to remove:
Once the cooling unit is apart and the evaporator is pulled out you may have a little cleaning to do! Keep in mind that I have a 14-year-old car and it doesn’t look like anyone has visited here in a while:
Tape the high and low-pressure lines up ASAP so you don’t contaminate them with dirt, bugs or whatever. I used the blower attached to an airline to blow out the evaporator with some high-pressure air. I also unwrapped the expansion valve. The copper lines you see in this picture are part of the expansion valve:
So there you have it. Not to hard, but it take some time and patience. That’s as simple as I can make it and if I missed something you will be able to make your own decision as to how to do it. I just hope this helps a little. I'm sure someone will find something wrong with it.
Oh yeah, this according to Infiniti's own books, which I now have in my possession, I saved 1.3 hrs on the evaporator core unit, 1.3 hrs on the changing of the expansion valve, 1.3 hrs on the evaporator case(cooling unit) and .4 hrs on the glove box assembly. So 4.3 hrs at $90 -$120 hr dealer rate, $75 hr foreign auto mechanic rate, $65 neighborhood chop shop rate or $0 using this article!
[post_title] => How to remove Q45 HVAC Evaporator and Cooling Unit
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[post_modified] => 2011-02-26 23:38:41
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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[post_content] => 
2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. Remove the console from the car – only a few bolts and it will lift off.
3. Remove the 2 harnesses that come out of your carpet and connect to the a/t shifter.
4. Remove the Cotter pin holding the A/T shifter to the A/T tranny
5. Remove the shifter and all the stuff that comes with it. You will now see the ground through your center console.
5 1/2. remove the shifter cable that goes to the ignition, it controls the key release
6. Next, take out the driveshaft. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from whipping around if it breaks. Next, remove the bracket that holds the middle of the driveshaft up, and slide out your drive shaft.
7. Next, remove the dust plates from the transmission bellhousing, they are at the very front of the transmission.
8. There are some A/T cooling hardlines that run all over the automatic transmission, and two that run to the radiator. Disconnect these hardlines and pull them out. Don’t be afraid to bend them – you won’t ever use them again. Get them out of your engine bay.
9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut.
10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day). You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. One of the top ones has a recirculation pipe bracket attached to it, the pipe runs down to the transmission – disconnect it and remove the bolt. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose.
11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the cross member. At the same time, get as many jacks as you can under the tranny – in a few steps it will come off.Also, there is an exhaust bracket on the tranny you must remove.
12. Where you took the dust plates off of the bellhousing earlier, you should be able to look back into the transmission and see some bolts holding the torque converter onto the flywheel – undo these 4 bolts. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley.
Note: the flywheel gets hard to turn when the engine starts a compression stroke.
13. After the torque converter is unbolted, the transmission will come loose (if not, you can kick it from the front some) – it will pop off and weighs about 250 – 300 lbs. ( a good bit more than the 5 speed – which means that this is a weight reduction!) Get some of your friends to help with this part. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before. Then slowly lower the tranny the rest of the way – you don’t want it to fall to one side and knock out a jack stand
14. This next step is very frustrating. The automatic flywheel is held on by 6 bolts torqued down to about 120 ft/lbs, and your flywheel will try to turn when you try to break these bolts. Brace your flywheel from moving as best you can. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy.
15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a ¼ inch out of the crankshaft. This is the A/T adapter bearing –and you don’t want an A/T. To remove the bushing either chisel it out with an air chisel, or dremel (which will take about 30 minutes to an hour) or go rent a pilot bushing remover tool and slide hammer from autozone and use it (which will take about 20 seconds).
note: on my car, the A/T adapter bearing would not budge, and even broke the bearing puller tool.Three hours later with a dremel and lots of broken bits we got the darn bearing out.
Procedure – Manual Install
I did not include what needs to be lubed, so check your FSM for where to put on lithium grease - some parts of the transmission need it, and some (like the clutch disc) will not work if they get greasy.
1. Now you are about halfway done. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Once it gets slid in all the way it should not go any further (but it does go pretty far into the crankshaft).Then, push on your manual transmission gasket (it should align itself on some dowels)
2. Slide the new flywheel on (there are 2 little holes that line up (on one the
flywheel and one on the crankshaft), but nothing actually goes thru them – but we still lined them up) Put back in the flywheel bolts, and torque them down to 100ft/lbs in a crisscross pattern. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over.Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar.
3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and the crankshaft – you will take it off later. Make sure you have the correct side of the clutch facing the flywheel – it should have stamped on it “flywheel side, or transmission side”. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car.
4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Bolt down the pressure plate to the flywheel – there are some dowels on the flywheel that fit into the pressure plate. Everything will be pretty tightly bound together but don’t worry – it needs to be tight so the clutch plate will stay aligned. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out.
5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together.
5 ½. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already.
6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work.
7. This is the hardest step to do. You now get to stab your 5 speed gearbox into the clutch/pilot bushing. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts. Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Next loosen the engine mounts that hold the mount to the body – not the engine to the mount, with these loose, jack up the front of the engine so you have a better approach angle with the transmission. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. Jack the transmission up and slide stab/wrestle/hammer/cuss the transmission to slide onto the pilot bearing/clutch. Easier said then done. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Also, once it is in if it is not perfect, it will not fit on all the way – you may want to try spinning the flywheel to help line everything up. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch.We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the cross member and bolt the cross member back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines.
8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. Remove the bolts holding that white A/T box thing and move it to the side. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster. Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal.
9. Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together.
10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about.
11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to.
12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it.
13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot.
14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time)
15. Start your car and see what happens.
16. We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit.
17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles)
Wiring
Visit: 
tension rod needs to be undone if you do it this way [or you get to separate the ball joint from the spindle]
yikes, it's been stripped!!
actually, the floor jack helped save my back during reinstall.....
[post_title] => 1997-2001 Infiniti Q45 installing new strut mounts
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[post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:58:31
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => By: Q_SHIP
First off, You do not need to buy a whole new strut for a non-touring car. All you need to order is a new non-touring shock cartridge. The cartridges WILL fit into a touring lower strut. You will lose the adjustable ride control but the savings is worth it. (The whole non-touring strut will not work with your touring model. Brakes and wheel bearings are different. The non-touring has a shorter spindle.) Also order new strut bearings for the front and new touring strut mounts. The non-touring strut mounts WILL NOT work. Make sure you get the ones for a touring model.
Fronts:
1. Remove the entire strut. No need to remove the hub or rotors.
2. Remove spring from Strut. These things are under some serious tension so be carefull removing the springs.
3. Carefully secure the strut to a vise at a point that will not damage the strut casing. Use a pipe wrench to remove the nut holding the cartridge into the strut. Remove the cartridge and empty out all the old strut oil.
4. Replace strut oil with new and replace with a new cartridge. Be sure to snug the nut down onto the new cartridge.
5. Compress and replace the spring, spring cap, bearing, and touring strut mount.
6. Put the whole unit back in the car.
Rears:
This was a lot easier than the fronts. Same steps there. Also replace the rear strut mounts while you are there. Be sure to use the touring model strut mounts.
Now the whole point of this post is so the guys with Touring adjustable suspension know what they need to do this swap. It can be done cheap. I learned this the hard way. Just be sure to use all the mounting hardware for the Touring car. If you don't mind losing the adjustable feature, this is a cheap suspension rehab.
[post_title] => 1997-2001 Q45 Installing Non-Touring struts on a Touring Model
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[post_content] => Rebuilding Q45 Brake Calipers
2. Remove O2 sensors.
3.Spray penetrating oil on all bolts to be taken out. YOU WILL NEED A PIVOTING ADAPTER FOR YOUR SOCKET WRENCH. Remove 3 bolts on front bank, 3 bolts on rear bank and 2 bolts on cat. 14mm wrench Remove hanger 12mm wrench.
4. When all bolts are removed, take a 2x4 block and hold it to the body of car directly beside stock y-pipe at the rear bank. Take a 2 foot pry bar and put bar on top of stock y-pipe and under 2x4 block. Lift up on pry bar (with a lot of force) and stock y-pipe will pop out.
This is the stocker removed!
5.Put crush gaskets on new Y-pipe. Put rear bank up and use 1 bolt to hold rear in place. Front will need some convincing to go in. The flange will rest against the front bank down pipe. Tap (convince) with a hammer until protruding flange pops into down tube.
6. Replace 3 front bolts and 3 rear bolts.
NOTE. There is a shield between the oil pan and the new location of the front O2 sensor. Remove this shield (it won't be used) and put bolts back in holes.
7. Replace O2 sensors.
See how California emissions have a lot of O2 sensors:
8. Put new cat in place and put gaskets where they should go. Bolt tight. Put new hanger in place.
9. Start car and check for exhaust leaks. If God graces you, as He did me, you'll have none. Shut off car and remove from jackstands.
10. Pull car outside and start. Let run for about 10 minutes and listen for leaks. (swelling and shrinking of fresh pipes can cause a leak if everything's not perfect. If you have leaks, fix them.
11. ENJOY!!!
Summary.
The horsepower gains are totally worth it. I don't butt dyno any mods, but there are noticable gains. The gains are from 2500RPM and up. I think I lost a little power off the line.
I used a Warpspeed Y-pipe and Magnaflow cat. The Warpspeed Y-pipe is only 60% the cost of a Cattman Y-pipe and are exactly the same. I compared it with a Cattman at a local shop.
If you've already replaced your muffler (like me) you're screwed. There are no "bees in a can" sound, but with a Magnaflow performer XL muffler the throaty V-8 sound goes away. I'm embarrassed/humiliated/ashamed to say, but my poor Max sounds like a Civic with a fart can. It's loud as hell and has that annoying pop to the sound. However it is faster and that's what I wanted, so I guess I can deal with it for now.
NOTE:The rear bank precat can be replaced with a straight pipe and you're fine. If you replace the front bank precat with a straight pipe you'll throw a code. If you "rod out" the catalyst in the front bank precat, you'll throw a code. The good news, the precats flow at 450 CFM. The high flow cat I put on the car only flows at 700 CFM so unequal backpressure should not be an issue. Most of the backpressure encountered will be at rear cat, and at 700 CFM, I'll probably have to do a few more mods to push that much exhaust.
[post_title] => 5th-Generation Maxima Y-pipe and Cat installation
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[post_content] => 
CA mounts, contrary to popular opinion, are no shorter. What to do?
With more than 2" of space between the pan and the crossmember, there was only one solution - Drop the motor lower in the cradle.
So, out with the old mounts and time to make my own.
Tools:
- Wire brush
- Grinder or Dremel with cutting wheel
Materials:
- (2) plastic cups (the cheap kind)
- (1) 1-lb container of Flexane 94 (order online)
- (2) 4" 12x1.25 allthread rods (Ace Hardware has them)
- (4) motor mount nuts (or any other 12x1.25 nuts)
- (2) flat washers
- Brake parts cleaner
Procedure:
First of all, take your 2 pieces of allthread and thread the nuts and washer onto them, making sure they're centered on the rod like so:
Tighten the two bolts against each other with two wrenches.Then, take your grinding wheel or Dremel and cut some notches in the washers. Don't worry about neatness, you want them to be all jagged and nasty-looking:
Next, break out the cheap plastic cups.T he size of cup will determine the diameter of your motor mount, so choose wisely. Or, just grab the cheapest crap they have.
Make a hole in the bottom center of each cup, slightly smaller than the allthread rod, and thread the rod through it from the inside:
Make a mark on the cup the height that you want the motor mount to be.You can see my marks in the pics above.
Find a "stand" to set the cups in, so the threaded rod can be suspended - I found that a spray paint can cap works perfect.
Now it's time to mix the Flexane. The main ingredient is clear, and the catalyst, or hardening agent, is black. Follow the directions on the label, it's approximately a 3:1 (Flexane to hardener) ratio. Mix ONLY the amount you need, because you can't save the mixed product. It hardens.
Once your mixing is done according to the instructions, pour the Flexane mixture into the cups. Try not to get it on the threads.
Now, find a warm place to set the concoction. It doesn't really stink, so if you live someplace cold, you can set it in the house.
It's best to let it sit 24 hours, or you can let it sit 12 hours and then put it in the oven at 150 degrees for 12 hours (which is what I did).
Once it cools, you can tear away the plastic cup. The finished product is cool, functional, and cheap.
Flexane has a resiliency somewhat near polyurethane, and you can experiment with different mixtures if you want it softer or harder.These should have great vibration dampening, while retaining the rigidity of a solid motor mount.
But they're clearly superior to the OEM mounts, as they won't oxidize (like rubber) or deteriorate (like rubber).
As far as strength, it has a hardness of 97A (Shore D scale) and a tensile strength of 2800 psi. Even at 400hp, these mounts won't see that kind of load.
As far as heat resistance, OEM mounts begin to degrade at 160 degrees F. I added heat shielding to mine, but I can't imagine them seeing 180 degrees consistently.
At idle, it's a little rougher than the Nismo mounts were, but nowhere near as rough as solid mounts.The Flexane provides some nice (but firm) dampening.
This project cost a grand total of $56, if you count the $50 for the Flexane.
EDIT: Ten years have passed since these were made. They're still holding strong, and the car is well over 600whp now.
[post_title] => Make Your Own Motor Mounts
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[post_name] => make-your-own-motor-mounts-heres-how
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[post_modified] => 2019-11-21 11:31:14
[post_modified_gmt] => 2019-11-21 18:31:14
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[125] => WP_Post Object
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[ID] => 1395
[post_author] => 39
[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => NISSAN SPEAKER SIZE LIST (alphabetical)
You can find 
).
Shifter is next. I have yet to find aftermarket shifters for the 4RE401A but if you own a domestic your in heaven.
[post_title] => Complete Listing of Nissan Final Drive Ratios
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[post_name] => complete-listing-of-nissan-final-drive-ratios
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[post_modified] => 2015-07-26 22:31:58
[post_modified_gmt] => 2015-07-27 05:31:58
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[137] => WP_Post Object
(
[ID] => 1427
[post_author] => 39
[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => Well, since I sold my ignitor to a friend who needed one, I was left without one for my RB20. Off to the junkyard I go and find a J30 - to my surprise the ignitor they use looks much like the one for the RB20 - however the similarities end there.
2. After you get the turn signal out, you will be able to see the back of the foglight, which is held in with three (3) 10mm nuts. Before taking off the nuts, undo the connector (green arrow) and then take off the nuts (red circles). Then push from the back and the foglight will pop out the front.
Removing the glare guard:
1. With the foglight out, remove the four (4) phillips screws at each corner of the back of the foglight (red circles)
2. The back will come off, but the wiring will still be connected to the lens. To disconnect the wiring, first slide off the grounding wire (top red arrow), and then pull back the clip holding the light bulb in (bottom red arrow). Take out the light bulb and be careful to not touch the light bulb as the oil on your fingers will shorten the life of the bulb considerably.
3. Remove the two phillips screws on each side, make sure you do not loose the little white rubber/plastic pieces (red circles). Then turn the foglight over and turn the phillips screw on the front like you are taking it out (this is the alignment screw) and when you watch from the back, you will notice the lens will be coming off the screw (green circle).
4. Take the lens out and you will see the glare guard.
5. The glare guard is just a piece of metal that is attached at two points. Take a pair of dykes and just cut each of these two attachment points and the glare guard will come off.
6. Put everything back together in reverse order, install them back on your car and you will have much brighter foglights.
Before.
After.
[post_title] => Z32: Glare Guard Removal for Brighter Foglights
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[post_name] => 300zx-z32-glare-guard-removal-for-brighter-foglights
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[post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:17:29
[post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:17:29
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[147] => WP_Post Object
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[ID] => 1453
[post_author] => 39
[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => Since searching around on the internet revealed this is becoming a more common problem as the 300zx ages, I figured I'd address it.
If you have the symptom that you turn your key off and remove it and your Z won't shut off, it is most likely your fuel controller. Removal and replacement is simple and straight forward.
Tools needed :
Phillips screwdriver
10mm socket with extension on ratchet
Start by removing the two interior panels shown below...they just pop off.
Next fold back the trunk mat to expose 4 phillips screws holding the package tray to the trunk floor (red circles) Then remove the 4 ten mm nuts that hold the package tray down on the top side (also red circles) and remove the package tray.
Once that is removed you will see two 10mm head phillips bolts at the back edge of the center console riser that butts up to the package tray. Remove those two bolts.
On the sides of the center console riser there are two phillips screws under black plastic bolt covers, one on the drivers side next to the seat, one on the passenger side next to the seat. Pop open the covers and remove the screws. Now you can remove the center console riser.
Next, back up top where you removed the drivers side cover in the first step, you will most likely see a "package" that contains the headlight aiming tools. Remove that and toss it aside.
Once you do that you will see one phillips screw/10mm bolt that holds the interior trim piece (grey tweed unless reupholstered otherwise) that runs behind the drivers seat. Remove that screw. The trim piece is held into the side trim below the b-pillar by a plastic snap. Wiggle it a little and pop it out. Set the trim piece aside.
Your interior should look something like this now
From here you can easily see the fuel computer, but it is much easier to access and remove if you take out the black felt covered lower trim pieces that is behind the seat. This is held in by plastic snaps and one phillips screw which is under a black plastic bolt cover. Remove this piece and you will see the following.
Here's what you're after.
There is another computer on top of the fuel computer. Simply remove the two 10mm nuts and swing it out of the way. You will see the fuel computer.
Unplug the harness and remove the fuel computer.
Follow the steps in reverse for re-installation. Also, keep in mind that there is a lot of insulation, sound deadening material, and other junk under the panels.I don't have any of it in my car, it just adds weight. Put it back in if you wish.
New the fuel controllers are big money, but they can be had used in good working condition anywhere from $25-$200 depending on how lucky you are and if the seller knows what they have.
Hope this helps out anybody who searches for info on how to do it.
[post_title] => Z32: Fuel Controller/Computer replacement
[post_excerpt] =>
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[comment_status] => open
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[post_name] => 90-96-300zx-z32fuel-controller-computer-replacement
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[post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:24:46
[post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:24:46
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[148] => WP_Post Object
(
[ID] => 1454
[post_author] => 39
[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => Time: 2 Hours
Tools Needed:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- Phillips screw driver
- Small and Medium Extensions
Procedure
1. There are two (2) 12mm nuts on the front of the headlight and two (2) 12mm bolts on the back of the headlight. The front two the the rear one closest to the center of the car are the easy to get to. The rear one that is on the outside of the car is harder to get to. Here is a pic with the headlight out to show you where the nuts/bolts are located.
2. Remove the center panel by removing four (4) 10mm bolts at the top of the center panel (red circles).
3. Remove the MAF harness (red circle) and remove your intake (blue circle)(you guys with stock airboxes, this step will be a little harder because you will have to remove the whole airbox I believe)
4. Remove the T-hose (red circles)
5. On Twin Turbo models, I believe you have to also remove the recirc. valves at this point.
6. Now you will be able to remove the nut and bolt that is closest to the center of the car. All the nuts and bolts holding the headlight in are 12mm. Remove the front 12mm nut nearest to the center of the car (red circle)
7. Remove the rear 12mm bolt nearest to the center of the car (red circle)
8. Do the same for the other headlight.
9. Remove the turn signals by taking out the two phillips screws and then the turn signal will pop out (red circles)
11. Do steps 8-9 for the other side.
12. Now for the hard part. For the drivers side, turn the wheels all the way to the right and take out four 10mm bolts along the wheel well splash guard and pull back to get access to the final 12mm bolt on the rear of the headlight.
13. Here is the bolt you are trying to get to. This is the easier of the two (red circle).
14. Now for the passenger side. Turn te wheels all the way to the left and take out four 10mm bolts out of the wheel well splash guard and also take out the two top phillips screws out of the top of the wheel well splash guard to gain easier access to the bolt. When you pull back the splash guard, you will see an box with a couple vacuum hoses coming out of it and an electrical connection. This box is connected to the body by one 10mm bolt and remov