by: rockchucker
After replacing all of my suspension components on my 300ZX I found that my wheel offset was not enough to bring my front wheel flush with the body…
So I measured the distance it was off and ordered a Version 1 Ichiba Hubcentric 15mm spacer kit with new longer wheel studs. The version 2 kit has an adapter that you attach to your existing sheel studs. Then the plate has new wheel studs in it. It’s a bit more robust (and potentially safer), but we’re not using a huge spacer.
Once you get your car in the air and properly blocked, here are the tools you will need…
Remove your wheel…
Remove the two Brake Caliper bolts and the spring clip for your Brake Line (red dots)… Also, now is a good time to spray some PB Blaster on your lug studs (front and back) and let it soak in for a while.
Remove your Brake Caliper…
Remove the Brake Rotor and align the wheel stud with the recess for removal (red dot). Spin an old lug nut on to the wheel stud to be removed. NOTE: DO NOT use a closed-ended lug like I am using here. Why not? Because if you mushroom the head of the nut, and you damage the threads, you’re not getting the nut / stud assembly to come out of the hole in the hub without cutting the stud. Strike the lug nut hard and square with a HEAVY hammer. I used a 4lb mini sledge – It helps if you stand up and hold the hammer with the head pointing down – Kind of like using a croquet mallet!
The stud is out. If the stud was broken to begin with then you will sometimes have to use a cold chisel or a punch to remove the remains of the wheel stud.
Once all of the wheel studs are out you will simply insert the new stud through the recess and make yourself a stud puller. Get a few large nuts and washers (these will be used as spacers). You can start with one, but as the stud is pressed into the hub, you’ll want to remove it, add a couple washers or another nut, and pull it in further. They have to be strong due to the force it takes to get the wheel studs pressed in place.
You *CAN* use an impact gun, but don’t go crazy – You need to make sure you don’t overdo it once the stud is in place. Here’s the stud FULLY SEATED!!!
THIS STUD IS NOT A FULLY SEATED STUD AND IT WILL FAIL IF DRIVEN ON!!! This also shows what happens when you do not keep your stud aligned with the recess for stud removal. You screw up your backing plate like a MORON…
Repeat the process 4 more times and you are golden. Install the Brake Rotor, Brake Caliper bolts and spring clip. Slide your Hubcentric Spacer on…
Install your wheel lug nuts snug, lower the vehicle then torque the lug nuts to specifications. Never torque the lug nuts for your wheels in the air. Always snug them up then drop the car then torque to spec.
Here is where she sits now. Very flush and very nice…
Hope this helps – If you have any questions or comments on this article, please ask them here: 300ZX Discussion: How to Replace a Wheel Stud and Install Wheel Spacers
