"betty-returns-510-restoration-redux"
"WP_Query Object
(
[query] => Array
(
[post_status] => publish
[post_type] => post
[toc_search_post_slug] => betty-returns-510-restoration-redux
[orderby] => ID
[order] => ASC
[posts_per_page] => -1
)
[query_vars] => Array
(
[post_status] => publish
[post_type] => post
[toc_search_post_slug] => betty-returns-510-restoration-redux
[orderby] => ID
[order] => ASC
[posts_per_page] => -1
[error] =>
[m] =>
[p] => 0
[post_parent] =>
[subpost] =>
[subpost_id] =>
[attachment] =>
[attachment_id] => 0
[name] =>
[pagename] =>
[page_id] => 0
[second] =>
[minute] =>
[hour] =>
[day] => 0
[monthnum] => 0
[year] => 0
[w] => 0
[category_name] =>
[tag] =>
[cat] =>
[tag_id] =>
[author] =>
[author_name] =>
[feed] =>
[tb] =>
[paged] => 0
[meta_key] =>
[meta_value] =>
[preview] =>
[s] =>
[sentence] =>
[title] =>
[fields] =>
[menu_order] =>
[embed] =>
[category__in] => Array
(
)
[category__not_in] => Array
(
)
[category__and] => Array
(
)
[post__in] => Array
(
)
[post__not_in] => Array
(
)
[post_name__in] => Array
(
)
[tag__in] => Array
(
)
[tag__not_in] => Array
(
[0] => 4610
)
[tag__and] => Array
(
)
[tag_slug__in] => Array
(
)
[tag_slug__and] => Array
(
)
[post_parent__in] => Array
(
)
[post_parent__not_in] => Array
(
)
[author__in] => Array
(
)
[author__not_in] => Array
(
)
[ignore_sticky_posts] =>
[suppress_filters] =>
[cache_results] => 1
[update_post_term_cache] => 1
[lazy_load_term_meta] => 1
[update_post_meta_cache] => 1
[nopaging] => 1
[comments_per_page] => 50
[no_found_rows] =>
)
[tax_query] => WP_Tax_Query Object
(
[queries] => Array
(
[0] => Array
(
[taxonomy] => post_tag
[terms] => Array
(
[0] => 4610
)
[field] => term_id
[operator] => NOT IN
[include_children] => 1
)
)
[relation] => AND
[table_aliases:protected] => Array
(
)
[queried_terms] => Array
(
)
[primary_table] => md5q3oa_posts
[primary_id_column] => ID
)
[meta_query] => WP_Meta_Query Object
(
[queries] => Array
(
)
[relation] =>
[meta_table] =>
[meta_id_column] =>
[primary_table] =>
[primary_id_column] =>
[table_aliases:protected] => Array
(
)
[clauses:protected] => Array
(
)
[has_or_relation:protected] =>
)
[date_query] =>
[request] => SELECT md5q3oa_posts.* FROM md5q3oa_posts WHERE 1=1 AND (
md5q3oa_posts.ID NOT IN (
SELECT object_id
FROM md5q3oa_term_relationships
WHERE term_taxonomy_id IN (4610)
)
) AND md5q3oa_posts.post_type = 'post' AND ((md5q3oa_posts.post_status = 'publish')) AND md5q3oa_posts.post_name LIKE '%betty-returns-510-restoration-redux%' GROUP BY md5q3oa_posts.ID ORDER BY md5q3oa_posts.ID ASC
[posts] => Array
(
[0] => WP_Post Object
(
[ID] => 32978
[post_author] => 2
[post_date] => 2019-01-01 18:17:41
[post_date_gmt] => 2019-01-02 01:17:41
[post_content] => Several years ago, we completed a lengthy article series on resto-modding our 1968 Datsun 510 sedan, Betty: 1968 Datsun 510 Restoration If you haven't read it, it's a fun read - especially if you're embarking on your own restoration.
Since then, Betty has been to a ton of shows, cruises, and some local errands, but small issues kept popping up that simply couldn't be ignored any longer. Appearance-wise, she's great... but the powerplant had been exhibiting some light ticking that grew louder over time gave me concerns about the quality of the internal engine components.
Keep in mind, this was a built L20b, and having owned a bunch of old Datsuns, I'm pretty good at diagnosing certain issues by ear. This one was elusive: An rpm-dependent tapping that couldn't be traced to any one cylinder, and that went away above 2500 rpm. Valves were adjusted perfectly, chain tension seemed good, and nothing external was interfering. Compression test results were 185 / 179 / 178 / 180. Finally, it was loud enough to start the process of disassembly, if only to pinpoint the issue.
Removing the valve cover had already been done, but I decided to take a borescope to the area behind the front cover. The first thing I saw was the timing chain oiler jet pin was worn, with two grooves - but how? A look at the backside of the timing cover revealed witness marks where the chain had actually been wearing on the front cover, and there was more to be found. This engine was coming out, now.
What we found during disassembly was interesting. Somehow, some way, someone had installed the tensioner incorrectly (again, how?). Even at full extension, it wouldn't have provided sufficient tension to tighten the chain (the tensioner was actually bolted in the WRONG holes). As a result, the cover didn't fit perfectly over the tensioner, which left a witness mark in the aluminum. That, and the wear grooves from the chain, had rendered the cover unusable. Janky work, to say the least. Calculating costs, I started to see our low-ish budget build getting expensive, and we haven't even gotten into the internals.
Although compression numbers were good, it appeared the engine had been re-ringed at some point. OK, that's good - except the gap was WAY tighter than factory tolerances (cold), which means further damage was yet to come. More quickie work in the past means a lot more work for me now, so out came the pistons. The thrust bearing flange and crankshaft main-thrust surface revealed end play of nearly 0.020, which meant the engine would eventually succumb to failure due to rod and piston misalignment. The final straw was noting that the castings on the head that ID the head itself were, well, partially missing. While this head (and its radical cam) were originally assembled for oval-track use, I expected the head would have been shaved - but measuring it revealed it was running on the ragged edge: 4.248" is stock. This one was 4.190". The cam towers were shimmed to make up for it, but realistically, this isn't gonna work for a street motor, and I'm not a fan of pulling the engine yet again.
We're gonna need a motor. I've got some thinking to do - I'll fill you in on what we decided in Part 2.
[post_title] => Betty Returns - 510 Restoration Redux
[post_excerpt] => Several years ago, we completed a lengthy article series on resto-modding our 1968 Datsun 510 sedan. Well, she's undergone some additional improvements.
[post_status] => publish
[comment_status] => closed
[ping_status] => closed
[post_password] =>
[post_name] => betty-returns-510-restoration-redux
[to_ping] =>
[pinged] =>
[post_modified] => 2019-06-10 10:14:56
[post_modified_gmt] => 2019-06-10 17:14:56
[post_content_filtered] =>
[post_parent] => 0
[guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=32978
[menu_order] => 0
[post_type] => post
[post_mime_type] =>
[comment_count] => 0
[filter] => raw
)
[1] => WP_Post Object
(
[ID] => 32988
[post_author] => 2
[post_date] => 2010-12-30 22:22:13
[post_date_gmt] => 2010-12-31 05:22:13
[post_content] => Having decided to pull the L20b and not look back, the next order of business was to decide what powerplant to replace it with. I'd grown weary of fiddling with the carbs and linkages, and besides, I want to drive this car, not tinker with it (we have plenty of other original Datsuns to fiddle with). A while back, I entertained the idea of swapping in a 1UZ, and even went as far as to buy a wrecked LS400 with low miles, pulled the engine, harness and ECU, and sourced a 5-speed and an adapter bellhousing. Those bits sat on the shelf in my shop for a year, but an offer came in that I couldn't refuse, so they all went down the road.
I'm a big fan of reliable NA powerplants, and a local importer had a S14 SR20DE automatic transmission engine available for less money than I'd have spent on the machine work for the L20b. I know JB Coachwerks had been working on a front-sump crossmember for the 510, so this was an easy call. No need to waste time - we drove across town, inspected the engine, and loaded it up that same day.
With the engine out, I noticed the old brake lines had been weeping, wrecking the paint on the fenderwell and frame rails. So, out with the master cylinder and the old lines. Plus, we'd be using different holes for the wiring and throttle, so I decided to clean up the firewall and delete the hood prop. Of course, with the new crossmember, I'd be upgrading to a steering rack, so the old box could go away as well. More holes to weld up, and more work, but it's something that always bugged me, so may as well get it done. Here's the fresh, smooth firewall, with new hardware, awaiting the engine install... and the new brake lines.
With the bay cleaned up and fresh, it was time to turn my attention to the engine. This one had perfect compression, and appeared to have never been touched. All the bolts looked factory-fresh, albeit coated with a layer of road grime. My suspicion was that the motor had a pretty cushy life for its 60k KM, especially with an automatic transmission. BUT, nothing gets installed looking like this, so disassembly began.
Cushy life indeed. Removing the valve cover and pan made me think maybe I'd made a mistake. I'd never seen an engine that gunked-up. In fact, I'd be amazed if it had more than a couple oil changes. Although the drained oil was clean, the thick black goo residing in the head and pan were terrifying. I mean, the VTC cam sprocket was literally encased in a cocoon of black tar. Here's the VTC cover, just to give you an idea:
The bottom end was no better - the crank had self-clearanced the thick black mess, and the pan was almost completely filled with funk. Even IF the oil had been changed recently, there's no way they could have added more than a couple quarts on the refill - there was simply no place for it to go. The good news? No apparent wear anywhere that I could see. A lighted borescope is super-handy for this purpose, and while I initially thought I had a paperweight, I decided this engine was just past-due for some love, with no ill effects from being neglected.
Now, how to de-funk an engine without a complete teardown and rebuild? Very carefully. I wanted to ensure that the solution went no further down than the valve retainers, and no further up than the midline of the crank. The rest would have to be managed by several immediate oil changes, after startup. I rigged up a cleaning station, so that the engine could be partially "dunked" in cleaning solution. With the engine immersed in a bath of my favorite degreaser, I circulated the solution with a small aquarium pump and a heating element, set to 100*F.
The bottom end sat in the cleanser for 48 hours. Another 24 hours to drain, and the surfaces looked fresh and new. Flipped the engine over, and immersed the head - same results. A good scrubbing of the exterior of the engine, followed by lots of tapping holes and chasing threads, ensured there'd be no surprises during reassembly. Finally, the block got masked, and a coat of etching primer and several coats of high-heat Eastwood gloss black engine enamel had the block and head looking factory-fresh.
All removed components were media blasted, and either replaced, powdercoated or plated, along with their hardware, prior to reassembly. This is where it really pays to take lots of pictures, because when the hardware comes back from plating, it's ALL in a bucket. Sorting into baggies, labeled with location, makes reassembly a much easier task. Bench-testing anything electronic prior to assembly saves a lot of hassles later.
OK, next episode, I promise - LOTS more pictures! 510 Restoration Redux Part 3
[post_title] => Betty Returns - 510 Restoration Redux Part 2
[post_excerpt] =>
[post_status] => publish
[comment_status] => closed
[ping_status] => closed
[post_password] =>
[post_name] => betty-returns-510-restoration-redux-part-2
[to_ping] =>
[pinged] =>
[post_modified] => 2019-01-01 19:25:14
[post_modified_gmt] => 2019-01-02 02:25:14
[post_content_filtered] =>
[post_parent] => 0
[guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=32988
[menu_order] => 0
[post_type] => post
[post_mime_type] =>
[comment_count] => 0
[filter] => raw
)
[2] => WP_Post Object
(
[ID] => 33003
[post_author] => 2
[post_date] => 2010-12-31 14:50:39
[post_date_gmt] => 2010-12-31 21:50:39
[post_content] => With the worst of the funk removed, another month was spent restoring or replacing the engine externals. Too often, I see swaps where the extent of the cosmetic refurbishment is a painted valve cover. Boring. Thankfully, we have the capability to powder coat here at Datsun Ranch, and plating services are relatively inexpensive ($125 for a 5-gal bucket of parts).
The assembly process is so much more enjoyable when everything is clean and all bolts thread in by hand. By the way, taking photos of everything before it came apart was a huge help - as well as labeling all the fasteners beforehand.
It's starting to look like a proper powerplant!
I can't stress enough the importance of taking a ton of pics along the way - especially if you've got more than one project car. I can't count the number of times I've thought, "Yep, I replaced [Part X] on the SR, I remember it!" Only to realize I was thinking of a different SR (or a different engine altogether). Blaming it on my age would be too easy - I'm pretty sure it's the fumes.
While waiting for a few more parts to show up, I took a break from the engine assembly to address some issues that had been bugging me since the first build. If you'll join me for that part, we'll get back to the engine soon! 510 Restoration Redux Part 4
[post_title] => Betty Returns - 510 Restoration Redux Part 3
[post_excerpt] =>
[post_status] => publish
[comment_status] => closed
[ping_status] => closed
[post_password] =>
[post_name] => betty-returns-510-restoration-redux-part-3
[to_ping] =>
[pinged] =>
[post_modified] => 2019-01-01 19:24:03
[post_modified_gmt] => 2019-01-02 02:24:03
[post_content_filtered] =>
[post_parent] => 0
[guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=33003
[menu_order] => 0
[post_type] => post
[post_mime_type] =>
[comment_count] => 0
[filter] => raw
)
[3] => WP_Post Object
(
[ID] => 33024
[post_author] => 2
[post_date] => 2010-01-01 17:01:22
[post_date_gmt] => 2010-01-02 00:01:22
[post_content] => The previous iteration of the 510 had some issues that most people wouldn't notice, but I knew about them. Considering I had done some welding on the firewall, the carpet and sound deadening had to be removed. The previous owner had an upholstery shop do the carpet, and it wasn't great. Lots of poor fitment, lots of glue, and no way to remove it if something needed to be done underneath. So, the carpet went away, and a new replacement kit was ordered.
First, the E30 seats were badly in need of refurbishment. The rear seat had been done a few years back, but the upholstery shop owner passed away in the interim, so my front seats were still crunchy old BMW vinyl. Finding a new shop that could recover them, while matching the texture, color and grain of the rear seats, was a challenge. As a side note: If you want to get into an aspect of restoration, learn to do upholstery - Holy crap, it's expensive.
Also, the seat rails were always a problem. The stamped steel brace that runs across the floor places the front of the seats too high. However, it's a critical part of the car's structure, so you can't simply cut it out. Instead, I leveled the car on jackstands, using shims to ensure it wasn't twisting or placing too much weight on any one corner. The spot welds were drilled out and the bracing was removed. Old ugliness out:
4" plate was laid down where the original bracing was. 1" x 2" thick walled steel tubing was notched and shaped to conform perfectly to the original shape of the floor pan, and welded in place. This would be far stronger than the old stamped steel pieces, and would allow the seats to be mounted perfectly and not interfere with adjustment. Seam sealer, followed by fresh chassis paint, would ensure the new metal stays fresh for decades.
The pedals were always too close together for my big goofy feet, and the old floor-mount accelerator wouldn't work for a throttle cable. The pedal box had to come out anyway, so it got modified. A fresh coat of gloss black powder, new bushings and pins, greased and ready to reinstall - much better.
Obviously, the shifter would be in a little bit different location with the new engine and trans (and crossmember). My measurements indicated it'd be pretty close to the original location, but there's a lot of variables. Since the trans tunnel had been modified by the previous owner, and I modded it again for the close-ratio 5speed, it had seen better days. So, I decided to weld it completely closed, until I could get an actual measurement with the engine and trans and crossmember all assembled. I'm glad I didn't put a lot of time into it, because later, it all came back out.
After test-fitting, I wound up reshaping the trans tunnel to accommodate the taller trans and shifter assembly, and the entire floor got the wire wheel treatment, a coat of primer, and sound deadening.
OK, we've had a week of working on the interior, and I've finally assembled another pile of parts for the engine - let's get back to it: 510 Restoration Redux Part 5
[post_title] => Betty Returns - 510 Restoration Redux Part 4
[post_excerpt] =>
[post_status] => publish
[comment_status] => closed
[ping_status] => closed
[post_password] =>
[post_name] => betty-returns-510-restoration-redux-part-4
[to_ping] =>
[pinged] =>
[post_modified] => 2019-01-01 19:23:00
[post_modified_gmt] => 2019-01-02 02:23:00
[post_content_filtered] =>
[post_parent] => 0
[guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=33024
[menu_order] => 0
[post_type] => post
[post_mime_type] =>
[comment_count] => 0
[filter] => raw
)
[4] => WP_Post Object
(
[ID] => 33045
[post_author] => 2
[post_date] => 2010-12-31 17:54:25
[post_date_gmt] => 2011-01-01 00:54:25
[post_content] => Putting all my attention back on the engine after a break, the fuel rail, new injectors, and throttle body could be installed.
The SR TB simply had too much "stuff" on it, and since we have no need for the coolant passages or cruise control, a KA throttle body was chosen for refurbishment and installation. I opted to retain the factory cast manifold, and had it Jet-Hot coated. Likewise, the heat shield was similarly coated. The refurbished alternator and other ancillary items were bolted up, and it's almost ready for final installation!
A new clutch and flywheel were fitted:
I wanted to install the engine from the bottom, so the new crossmember was fitted to the engine mounts on the stand. Then, we simply lowered the body down onto the engine (which was sitting on jackstands) and fastened the crossmember to the frame rails.
The rack is from an MR2 with manual steering, and I was able to find a rebuilt one for a decent price. The assembly in the crossmember is super-easy, and overall, I'm pretty impressed with the work from JB Coachwerks. Couldn't resist taking a couple pics of the engine in its new home!
Still lots to do, but the progress is good! Next up, we run into space limitations, in more than a couple places... 510 Restoration Redux Part 6
[post_title] => Betty Returns - 510 Restoration Redux Part 5
[post_excerpt] =>
[post_status] => publish
[comment_status] => closed
[ping_status] => closed
[post_password] =>
[post_name] => betty-returns-510-restoration-redux-part-5
[to_ping] =>
[pinged] =>
[post_modified] => 2019-01-01 19:22:01
[post_modified_gmt] => 2019-01-02 02:22:01
[post_content_filtered] =>
[post_parent] => 0
[guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=33045
[menu_order] => 0
[post_type] => post
[post_mime_type] =>
[comment_count] => 0
[filter] => raw
)
)
[post_count] => 5
[current_post] => -1
[in_the_loop] =>
[post] => WP_Post Object
(
[ID] => 32978
[post_author] => 2
[post_date] => 2019-01-01 18:17:41
[post_date_gmt] => 2019-01-02 01:17:41
[post_content] => Several years ago, we completed a lengthy article series on resto-modding our 1968 Datsun 510 sedan, Betty: 1968 Datsun 510 Restoration If you haven't read it, it's a fun read - especially if you're embarking on your own restoration.
Since then, Betty has been to a ton of shows, cruises, and some local errands, but small issues kept popping up that simply couldn't be ignored any longer. Appearance-wise, she's great... but the powerplant had been exhibiting some light ticking that grew louder over time gave me concerns about the quality of the internal engine components.
Keep in mind, this was a built L20b, and having owned a bunch of old Datsuns, I'm pretty good at diagnosing certain issues by ear. This one was elusive: An rpm-dependent tapping that couldn't be traced to any one cylinder, and that went away above 2500 rpm. Valves were adjusted perfectly, chain tension seemed good, and nothing external was interfering. Compression test results were 185 / 179 / 178 / 180. Finally, it was loud enough to start the process of disassembly, if only to pinpoint the issue.
Removing the valve cover had already been done, but I decided to take a borescope to the area behind the front cover. The first thing I saw was the timing chain oiler jet pin was worn, with two grooves - but how? A look at the backside of the timing cover revealed witness marks where the chain had actually been wearing on the front cover, and there was more to be found. This engine was coming out, now.
What we found during disassembly was interesting. Somehow, some way, someone had installed the tensioner incorrectly (again, how?). Even at full extension, it wouldn't have provided sufficient tension to tighten the chain (the tensioner was actually bolted in the WRONG holes). As a result, the cover didn't fit perfectly over the tensioner, which left a witness mark in the aluminum. That, and the wear grooves from the chain, had rendered the cover unusable. Janky work, to say the least. Calculating costs, I started to see our low-ish budget build getting expensive, and we haven't even gotten into the internals.
Although compression numbers were good, it appeared the engine had been re-ringed at some point. OK, that's good - except the gap was WAY tighter than factory tolerances (cold), which means further damage was yet to come. More quickie work in the past means a lot more work for me now, so out came the pistons. The thrust bearing flange and crankshaft main-thrust surface revealed end play of nearly 0.020, which meant the engine would eventually succumb to failure due to rod and piston misalignment. The final straw was noting that the castings on the head that ID the head itself were, well, partially missing. While this head (and its radical cam) were originally assembled for oval-track use, I expected the head would have been shaved - but measuring it revealed it was running on the ragged edge: 4.248" is stock. This one was 4.190". The cam towers were shimmed to make up for it, but realistically, this isn't gonna work for a street motor, and I'm not a fan of pulling the engine yet again.
We're gonna need a motor. I've got some thinking to do - I'll fill you in on what we decided in Part 2.
[post_title] => Betty Returns - 510 Restoration Redux
[post_excerpt] => Several years ago, we completed a lengthy article series on resto-modding our 1968 Datsun 510 sedan. Well, she's undergone some additional improvements.
[post_status] => publish
[comment_status] => closed
[ping_status] => closed
[post_password] =>
[post_name] => betty-returns-510-restoration-redux
[to_ping] =>
[pinged] =>
[post_modified] => 2019-06-10 10:14:56
[post_modified_gmt] => 2019-06-10 17:14:56
[post_content_filtered] =>
[post_parent] => 0
[guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=32978
[menu_order] => 0
[post_type] => post
[post_mime_type] =>
[comment_count] => 0
[filter] => raw
)
[comment_count] => 0
[current_comment] => -1
[found_posts] => 5
[max_num_pages] => 0
[max_num_comment_pages] => 0
[is_single] =>
[is_preview] =>
[is_page] =>
[is_archive] =>
[is_date] =>
[is_year] =>
[is_month] =>
[is_day] =>
[is_time] =>
[is_author] =>
[is_category] =>
[is_tag] =>
[is_tax] =>
[is_search] =>
[is_feed] =>
[is_comment_feed] =>
[is_trackback] =>
[is_home] => 1
[is_privacy_policy] =>
[is_404] =>
[is_embed] =>
[is_paged] =>
[is_admin] =>
[is_attachment] =>
[is_singular] =>
[is_robots] =>
[is_favicon] =>
[is_posts_page] =>
[is_post_type_archive] =>
[query_vars_hash:WP_Query:private] => 79a1e2bf315a857bcccb4b3d65d64092
[query_vars_changed:WP_Query:private] => 1
[thumbnails_cached] =>
[stopwords:WP_Query:private] =>
[compat_fields:WP_Query:private] => Array
(
[0] => query_vars_hash
[1] => query_vars_changed
)
[compat_methods:WP_Query:private] => Array
(
[0] => init_query_flags
[1] => parse_tax_query
)
)
"
Article Series
Several years ago, we completed a lengthy article series on resto-modding our 1968 Datsun 510 sedan, Betty: 1968 Datsun 510 Restoration If you haven’t read it, it’s a fun read – especially if you’re embarking on your own restoration.
Since then, Betty has been to a ton of shows, cruises, and some local errands, but small issues kept popping up that simply couldn’t be ignored any longer. Appearance-wise, she’s great… but the powerplant had been exhibiting some light ticking that grew louder over time gave me concerns about the quality of the internal engine components.
Keep in mind, this was a built L20b, and having owned a bunch of old Datsuns, I’m pretty good at diagnosing certain issues by ear. This one was elusive: An rpm-dependent tapping that couldn’t be traced to any one cylinder, and that went away above 2500 rpm. Valves were adjusted perfectly, chain tension seemed good, and nothing external was interfering. Compression test results were 185 / 179 / 178 / 180. Finally, it was loud enough to start the process of disassembly, if only to pinpoint the issue.
Removing the valve cover had already been done, but I decided to take a borescope to the area behind the front cover. The first thing I saw was the timing chain oiler jet pin was worn, with two grooves – but how? A look at the backside of the timing cover revealed witness marks where the chain had actually been wearing on the front cover, and there was more to be found. This engine was coming out, now.
What we found during disassembly was interesting. Somehow, some way, someone had installed the tensioner incorrectly (again, how?). Even at full extension, it wouldn’t have provided sufficient tension to tighten the chain (the tensioner was actually bolted in the WRONG holes). As a result, the cover didn’t fit perfectly over the tensioner, which left a witness mark in the aluminum. That, and the wear grooves from the chain, had rendered the cover unusable. Janky work, to say the least. Calculating costs, I started to see our low-ish budget build getting expensive, and we haven’t even gotten into the internals.
Although compression numbers were good, it appeared the engine had been re-ringed at some point. OK, that’s good – except the gap was WAY tighter than factory tolerances (cold), which means further damage was yet to come. More quickie work in the past means a lot more work for me now, so out came the pistons. The thrust bearing flange and crankshaft main-thrust surface revealed end play of nearly 0.020, which meant the engine would eventually succumb to failure due to rod and piston misalignment. The final straw was noting that the castings on the head that ID the head itself were, well, partially missing. While this head (and its radical cam) were originally assembled for oval-track use, I expected the head would have been shaved – but measuring it revealed it was running on the ragged edge: 4.248″ is stock. This one was 4.190″. The cam towers were shimmed to make up for it, but realistically, this isn’t gonna work for a street motor, and I’m not a fan of pulling the engine yet again.
We’re gonna need a motor. I’ve got some thinking to do – I’ll fill you in on what we decided in Part 2.