By GQ Jay.
Monday’s project: broken strut mount on the 97t.
replaced: LF strut, bearing, mount, dust boot, gasket.while in the area, did the left rack boot and the sway bar bushings.would have done the sway link [more on that later].
since i wanted to change rack boots anyway, and i get nervous about ripping the balljoint/tie rod end rubber parts with the pickle fork, I opted to remove the lower control arm intact.
DIY hints [i won’t list every bolt size, etc. since y’all can turn wrenches…]
1. the fstb does not need to be completely removed, only remove the backing nut to get at the [inboard] strut mount nut.
2. it may help to break torque on the strut center bolt while everything is still hooked up. of course, you don’t want to back it all the way off, as it holds the spring in……
3. the A-LB pickup is attached to the back of the hub.remove it carefully and hang it out of the way.you already know to hang your calipers so as not to stress the lines.
4. out of order, but you need [well at least want] to remove the caliper and rotor to get out of your way and make it a bit more manageable for manhandling.
5. be sure and count turns on the steering link as you untwist the tie rod.liquid paper, or a scribe line works well.also, undoing the little clamp that secures the outer rubber end of the boot helps to keep from twisting the boot.
6. the sway link needs to be undone to remove the strut.i presoaked the nuts with liquid wrench, but still had one frozen.ended up disconnecting at the swaybar and removing with the link attached.
tension rod needs to be undone if you do it this way [or you get to separate the ball joint from the spindle]
yikes, it’s been stripped!!
actually, the floor jack helped save my back during reinstall…..
