"fix-the-fan-control-amplifier-infiniti-nissan"
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[post_content] => Here's a write-up on how to troubleshoot and repair the HVAC "Fan Amplifier" module, as used in G50 (1990-1996) and FY33 (1997-2001) versions of the Infiniti Q45, the A32 (1995-1999) version of the Nissan Maxima, and probably other models as well. This thread is the result of repairing dead fan amplifiers from IrvingQ45 and goody94q45, which they most graciously loaned me for autopsies. Total cost of the repair parts is around $4.50.
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION: When the Fan Control Amplifier module fails, either one of two things happen:
1. The HVAC blower doesn't work on any speed setting, or
2. The blower runs at full speed all the time, and only shuts off when the ignition key is turned off.
Here's a couple schematics that show both the G50 and Y33 versions of the Fan Control Amplifier module, what's inside it, and how it connects to the blower and "AC Auto Amp":
HOW IT WORKS: The Fan Control Amp receives a control voltage from Pin 35 of the AC Auto Amp; this voltage varies depending on howmuch blower motor speed is desired. The control voltage varies the conductivity of a 2SD1297 Darlington Bipolar Junction Transistor (G50 version), or a 2SK2500 MOSFET Power Transistor (Y33 version) which is connected in series with the blower motor - When the control voltage is high, this transistor conducts strongly, and full battery current is allowed to flow through the blower motor, then through the transistor, and finally to ground.
When the control voltage is low, the transistor conducts weakly, allowing only a small current to flow through the blower motor. In this manner, the blower speed is adjusted by adjusting the control voltage. The AC Auto Amp continuously measures the blower speed, via a connection between the negative side of the blower motor and Pin 34 on the AC auto Amp.
WHAT THE FAN CONTROL AMP LOOKS LIKE:
(Y33 version shown, G50 version similar)
HOW TO GET TO IT FOR REMOVAL OR REPLACEMENT:
(Y33 version shown, G50 version is vaguely similar)
After unsnapping and pulling out the passenger side dashboard kick panel, remove these screws from the bottom of the glove box...
...and then remove these screws from the top of the glove box:
Pull the glove compartment away from the dashboard, and you'll see where the Fan Amp is mounted behind it on the HVAC blower enclosure:
Remove the 2 screws that secure it, pull it out of the blower enclosure, and unplug it from its electrical connector.
WHY THE FAN CONTROL AMP FAILS: In looking at the schematic shown above, it becomes obvious that control voltage from the A/C Auto Amp can only reach the transistor through a thermal cutout. If the cutout blows (due to temperatures in excess of 140 degrees C.), no control voltage is applied to the base (or gate) of the transistor, and the blower never comes on.
Or, if the transistor fails, it typically develops a permanent short circuit between the Collector & Emitter (G50 version) or Drain and Source (Y33 version) terminals, causing the blower motor to run at full speed whenever the ignition switch is turned on.
HOW TO TROUBLE-SHOOT IT: If the Thermal Cutout has blown, you will measure infinite resistance between the two printed-circuit pads shown at the top of this photo:
If the Cutout is still good, you will measure approximately zero ohms across these same two pads.
If the Thermal Cutout is still good, the transistor has probably blown. In some cases, this will result in the same very low resistance being measured across terminals 35 and G when probing in both directions.
HOW TO REPAIR IT:
If the Cutout has blown, a quick-and-dirty fix would be to solder a jumper wire across both printed circuit pads, thereby bypassing the cutout. However, this defeats the safety feature of having the cutout. A better option is to replace the cutout with a new one (which only costs around 45 cents).
In order to replace either the Cutout or transistor, the printed circuit board must be unsoldered at the 5 points shown in the photo above. A roll of solder wick makes the unsoldering job much easier:
Use a soldering iron to heat both the printed circuit pad and the solder wick, until the molten solder "wicks up" into the solder wick's copper braid. Gradually pull the braid across the pad so that fresh braid is continuously exposed to the pad and soldering iron, until all the solder is removed from the pad:
Printed circuit board removed:
Unscrew the transistor mounting screw to remove the Thermal Cutout:
On the G50, the 2SD1297 Darlington transistor (originally manufactured by NEC) is apparently no longer being manufactured, and no suitable substitute was found. This transistor has an unusually high continuous collector rating (25 amps), which doesn't seem to be available in any currently-manufactured transistor which uses the same TO-218/TO3PF package. However, the original transistor may be available on the internet.
On the Y33, the 2SK2500 Power MOSFET is not available as a replacement part, but the Fairchild Semiconductor FDH5500 makes an excellent substitute. This MOSFET is rated to carry 75 amps, and has a very low on-resistance of 0.007 ohms. It costs around $4.00 in single-piece quantities from Mouser Electronics (Mouser Part No. 512-FDH5500).
The original Thermal Cutout is rated to open at 135 degrees C. (G50 version) or 140 degrees C (Y33 version). A replacement with a slightly higher 145 degree C. temperature is available from Mouser (Part No. 447-XYP2BN143-RC), for around 45 cents in single-piece quantities. I also bought a few extra Thermal Cutouts and FDH5500 Power MOSFET Transistors. If anyone one wants one, let me know.
Original and replacement parts, prior to bending the leads on the new parts:
(NOTE: Apply a little bit of silicone thermal grease to the bottom of the new transistor before installing it. Permatex aluminum-based anti-seize compound can also be used in lieu of thermal grease).
New parts installed:
Printed circuit re-soldered:
Cut off the ends of the wire leads, re-install the Blower Amp in your vehicle, and you're done.
[post_title] => Fix the Fan Control Amplifier
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[post_content] => Here's a write-up on how to troubleshoot and repair the HVAC "Fan Amplifier" module, as used in G50 (1990-1996) and FY33 (1997-2001) versions of the Infiniti Q45, the A32 (1995-1999) version of the Nissan Maxima, and probably other models as well. This thread is the result of repairing dead fan amplifiers from IrvingQ45 and goody94q45, which they most graciously loaned me for autopsies. Total cost of the repair parts is around $4.50.
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION: When the Fan Control Amplifier module fails, either one of two things happen:
1. The HVAC blower doesn't work on any speed setting, or
2. The blower runs at full speed all the time, and only shuts off when the ignition key is turned off.
Here's a couple schematics that show both the G50 and Y33 versions of the Fan Control Amplifier module, what's inside it, and how it connects to the blower and "AC Auto Amp":
HOW IT WORKS: The Fan Control Amp receives a control voltage from Pin 35 of the AC Auto Amp; this voltage varies depending on howmuch blower motor speed is desired. The control voltage varies the conductivity of a 2SD1297 Darlington Bipolar Junction Transistor (G50 version), or a 2SK2500 MOSFET Power Transistor (Y33 version) which is connected in series with the blower motor - When the control voltage is high, this transistor conducts strongly, and full battery current is allowed to flow through the blower motor, then through the transistor, and finally to ground.
When the control voltage is low, the transistor conducts weakly, allowing only a small current to flow through the blower motor. In this manner, the blower speed is adjusted by adjusting the control voltage. The AC Auto Amp continuously measures the blower speed, via a connection between the negative side of the blower motor and Pin 34 on the AC auto Amp.
WHAT THE FAN CONTROL AMP LOOKS LIKE:
(Y33 version shown, G50 version similar)
HOW TO GET TO IT FOR REMOVAL OR REPLACEMENT:
(Y33 version shown, G50 version is vaguely similar)
After unsnapping and pulling out the passenger side dashboard kick panel, remove these screws from the bottom of the glove box...
...and then remove these screws from the top of the glove box:
Pull the glove compartment away from the dashboard, and you'll see where the Fan Amp is mounted behind it on the HVAC blower enclosure:
Remove the 2 screws that secure it, pull it out of the blower enclosure, and unplug it from its electrical connector.
WHY THE FAN CONTROL AMP FAILS: In looking at the schematic shown above, it becomes obvious that control voltage from the A/C Auto Amp can only reach the transistor through a thermal cutout. If the cutout blows (due to temperatures in excess of 140 degrees C.), no control voltage is applied to the base (or gate) of the transistor, and the blower never comes on.
Or, if the transistor fails, it typically develops a permanent short circuit between the Collector & Emitter (G50 version) or Drain and Source (Y33 version) terminals, causing the blower motor to run at full speed whenever the ignition switch is turned on.
HOW TO TROUBLE-SHOOT IT: If the Thermal Cutout has blown, you will measure infinite resistance between the two printed-circuit pads shown at the top of this photo:
If the Cutout is still good, you will measure approximately zero ohms across these same two pads.
If the Thermal Cutout is still good, the transistor has probably blown. In some cases, this will result in the same very low resistance being measured across terminals 35 and G when probing in both directions.
HOW TO REPAIR IT:
If the Cutout has blown, a quick-and-dirty fix would be to solder a jumper wire across both printed circuit pads, thereby bypassing the cutout. However, this defeats the safety feature of having the cutout. A better option is to replace the cutout with a new one (which only costs around 45 cents).
In order to replace either the Cutout or transistor, the printed circuit board must be unsoldered at the 5 points shown in the photo above. A roll of solder wick makes the unsoldering job much easier:
Use a soldering iron to heat both the printed circuit pad and the solder wick, until the molten solder "wicks up" into the solder wick's copper braid. Gradually pull the braid across the pad so that fresh braid is continuously exposed to the pad and soldering iron, until all the solder is removed from the pad:
Printed circuit board removed:
Unscrew the transistor mounting screw to remove the Thermal Cutout:
On the G50, the 2SD1297 Darlington transistor (originally manufactured by NEC) is apparently no longer being manufactured, and no suitable substitute was found. This transistor has an unusually high continuous collector rating (25 amps), which doesn't seem to be available in any currently-manufactured transistor which uses the same TO-218/TO3PF package. However, the original transistor may be available on the internet.
On the Y33, the 2SK2500 Power MOSFET is not available as a replacement part, but the Fairchild Semiconductor FDH5500 makes an excellent substitute. This MOSFET is rated to carry 75 amps, and has a very low on-resistance of 0.007 ohms. It costs around $4.00 in single-piece quantities from Mouser Electronics (Mouser Part No. 512-FDH5500).
The original Thermal Cutout is rated to open at 135 degrees C. (G50 version) or 140 degrees C (Y33 version). A replacement with a slightly higher 145 degree C. temperature is available from Mouser (Part No. 447-XYP2BN143-RC), for around 45 cents in single-piece quantities. I also bought a few extra Thermal Cutouts and FDH5500 Power MOSFET Transistors. If anyone one wants one, let me know.
Original and replacement parts, prior to bending the leads on the new parts:
(NOTE: Apply a little bit of silicone thermal grease to the bottom of the new transistor before installing it. Permatex aluminum-based anti-seize compound can also be used in lieu of thermal grease).
New parts installed:
Printed circuit re-soldered:
Cut off the ends of the wire leads, re-install the Blower Amp in your vehicle, and you're done.
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"
Here’s a write-up on how to troubleshoot and repair the HVAC “Fan Amplifier” module, as used in G50 (1990-1996) and FY33 (1997-2001) versions of the Infiniti Q45, the A32 (1995-1999) version of the Nissan Maxima, and probably other models as well. This thread is the result of repairing dead fan amplifiers from IrvingQ45 and goody94q45, which they […]
Unfortunately, this time I only found 4 cents ($0.04), so it was not as big of a pay day as it was usually..
The new seat pads, clearly they are in much better shape..
So the first step in doing this you must remove the seat back.. There are 4 bolts holding it onto the seat bottom (2 on each side).. Pictured is one side, the 2 motors you see are the front and rear lifting motors.
Heres a picture of the seat back separated from the seat bottom
Next step is to remove the seat bottom from the seat rail... Pictured is the new seat to more closely show the 4 bolts that hold the cushion onto the sliding rail... 2 bolts horizontal on the front, 2 vertical on the rear..
Sorry the focus is off on this, but here you can see the seat rails and cushion seperated
Since the 94s have the LAN system, in order for things to play nicely together, the electronics and wiring must be swapped from the passenger seat to the drivers seat... This is the drivers seat with its electronics removed
The electronics do not bolt up perfect to the passenger side seat frame, but i was able to line up 2 screw holes, which I figure is enough to hold the seat controller in place... This picture shows the seat controller with seat frame on the new seat cushion. I plugged in as many electrical harnesses as I could to get a good idea how it needed to be oriented. Once I did, I moved the seat controller around a bit until I got it screwed in place securely.
Next, the brackets that hold the seat back to the seat bottom are not compatible from drivers side to passenger side. So, in order to take a passenger side seat back and adapt it to a drivers side seat bottom, you must remove the brackets.. The brackets are held in place with 2 bolts, however you must remove the bottom 2 hogrings on each side to access the bolts. Here is a picture of the bolts holding the brackets onto the seat back.
The seat brackets will only go onto the seat one way, so you really cant get it backwards, and they go right onto the passenger side seat.. What you are actually removing is the brackets, as well as the tilt mechanism, which consists of a motor and a rod that goes across to the other side which makes each side move equally.
After the brackets are swapped, the seat bottom will bolt directly to the seat back.. here is a pic of them assembled.
If you are like me, and did NOT set both cushion lifting mechanisms all the way up or down, you must remove the motor, manually push the mechanism, install the seat into the car and with the motor unbolted from the seat frame, move it all the way down, then reinstall it on the seat
All of the electrical harnesses work 100% fine, as you're using 99% of the electronics and wiring from the drivers side seat anyway.. So everything plugs and goes, the only thing that I came across that did not work directly was the power head rests. Since the drivers seat has memory seats, and the passenger side does not, the head rest has a position sensor on the same harness.. The difference is simply 2 pins
I was really concerned I would lose my power headrests, since I use those on a daily basis, so I was determined to make this work properly.. A quick look at the wiring diagram shows that the drivers side and passenger side share the exact same wire colors, all you have to do is switch the connectors.. Since your going from a passenger side headrest to a drivers side seat controller, I took the drivers side harness and switched the 7 pin connector to the 5 pin connector.. That is, I took the large (seat side connector), not the smaller controller side connector..
This part is a bit tricky, but it can be done.. There is a yellow retainer that you simply pry off gently.. Then, use a tiny screwdriver to press up on a little plastic clip.. The pins will come right out of the connector...
From here, all you have to do is plug the connector back into the headrest harness on the seat, and match the colors up.. The pins will click right into place, and you then put the retainer back in. You will have 2 extra wires for the sensor, and I just left those hanging around..
So now, the job is complete and you just bolt the seat back into the car... The end result is I have a nice looking seat, and no one would know that it came from the other side of the car unless they were REALLY smart...
All in all, I'm super happy with how everything came out... There are only 2 features I lost by doing this, and that is the memory seats and the lumbar support, which honestly I don't think it did anything when I had it, so I don't miss it at all. The memory seats stopped working for no reason after the 5 speed swap, and I am the only person who drives the car so its not a big deal...
[post_title] => How To Transform a Q45 Passenger Seat to a Driver Seat
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As you can see there are 2 pistons vs the stock 1, the pads have slightly more contact area, and the rotors are thicker. This all translates into more clamping force along with more contact area which also transfers heat better to the rotor and having thicker rotors means more thermal capacity to withstand brake fad and boiling the fluid.
Before you can even start the install, the rotors, OEM or aftermarket, need to be milled down 8mm off of the OUTSIDE diameter.
This is done so that the rotor clears the caliper and caliper bracket.
To start installing the brakes, first start by lifting the car up and supporting it. next you need to "load" the suspension by jacking up the lower control arm untill the car just starts to lift off of you supports. next remove all the old brake hardware. I left the caliper connected so to not loose any fluid and prevent a mess. when you get everything tore down you should end up with this,
Now there are 2 options here you can do like me and remove the dust shield completely,
Or try trimming to clear everything. the only bad thing about trimming is the rotor sit sooo close that there is the posibility of it rubbing.
Next you will need a grinder and grind on the lower control arm.
Before grinding:
After grinding:
Now to the people that question structual integrity about grinding on the control arm, you only need to take off a maximum of 1/16" of material - just enough to clear the rotor. This is also the reason of "LOADING" the suspension so that the control arm is at its closest to the rotor. You will need to grind and check often from full lock to full lock for proper clearances.
After this is done the caliper bracket can be bolted on, use the maxima bolts NOT the Q45/J30 as they are longer and will rub the rotor.
Next the inside pad can be installed, but the outside pad needs to be modified to clear the hub. your pad should look like this:
You need to grind the lower part with the circle opening to the contor of the pad material. you do not need to grind ANY pad material, just the steel backing. And you'll want to end up with this:
Now bolt the caliper on and bleed the system then move to the other side. The end it sould look like this:
When I did this I also did new rear pads and rotors to complete the install, which was a good idea as I had 2 frozen slide pins, a bad caliper, and I was missing a clip that held the e-brake cable to the bracket.
DRIVING IMPRESSIONS:
This thing stops better than my 300zx brake equiped 240sx. My stopping distances dropped by at least 75ft under heavy braking. I also never felt any brake fad when I was bedding in the new brakes. There is more petal movement, but I like it as its easier to modulate them and keep them from locking them up. I also completely flushed the brake system and filled it with DOT-4 fluid. If you could get it I would use DOT 5.1 for a higher boiling point but DOT-4 is good for daily/spirited driving.
Also to those who might "NEED" more, you could couple this with drilled/slotted rotors and hawk pads.
[post_title] => OEM or Aftermarket Brake Installation Q45 J30
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[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-31 07:09:18
[post_content] => 
tension rod needs to be undone if you do it this way [or you get to separate the ball joint from the spindle]
yikes, it's been stripped!!
actually, the floor jack helped save my back during reinstall.....
[post_title] => 1997-2001 Infiniti Q45 installing new strut mounts
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[ID] => 1384
[post_author] => 39
[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
[post_content] => By GQ Jay.
Monday's project: broken strut mount on the 97t.
replaced: LF strut, bearing, mount, dust boot, gasket.while in the area, did the left rack boot and the sway bar bushings.would have done the sway link [more on that later].
since i wanted to change rack boots anyway, and i get nervous about ripping the balljoint/tie rod end rubber parts with the pickle fork, I opted to remove the lower control arm intact.
DIY hints [i won't list every bolt size, etc. since y'all can turn wrenches...]
1. the fstb does not need to be completely removed, only remove the backing nut to get at the [inboard] strut mount nut.
2. it may help to break torque on the strut center bolt while everything is still hooked up. of course, you don't want to back it all the way off, as it holds the spring in......
3. the A-LB pickup is attached to the back of the hub.remove it carefully and hang it out of the way.you already know to hang your calipers so as not to stress the lines.
4. out of order, but you need [well at least want] to remove the caliper and rotor to get out of your way and make it a bit more manageable for manhandling.
5. be sure and count turns on the steering link as you untwist the tie rod.liquid paper, or a scribe line works well.also, undoing the little clamp that secures the outer rubber end of the boot helps to keep from twisting the boot.
6. the sway link needs to be undone to remove the strut.i presoaked the nuts with liquid wrench, but still had one frozen.ended up disconnecting at the swaybar and removing with the link attached.
