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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43
[post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 20:23:43
[post_content] => by Dano
Overview:
Alright, so, this is what we start with. Test vehicle is a 1995 240sx base model (which, for the trunk, means nothing, as the SE model is no different in the trunk). I enjoy nearly every aspect of my car, I love it, but there was always something left to be had when I'd open the trunk or door at night or in low-light areas. What can we do about that? Well I have the answer... http://www.LEDdomelight.com lighting upgrade kits! Matt approached myself and some of the other guys at NOPI Nationals in Atlanta this year with a new product, and it just so happens that this is something I've been looking for for a long time, but never found something that really piqued my interest, until now. He showed me these lighting upgrades and I had to try it for myself, so I want to share it with you now, cuz this rocks! Let's see what it has to offer!
Difficulty: *
Time: 15-20 minutes (max)
Cost: $45
Materials:
- LED interior light
Procedure:
Here's what we began with, a blue-tinted incandescent 194 5 watt wedge bulb:
A closer look:
(I don't want you to brighten your monitor because I want you to see the change this upgrade has made)
A pic of the open trunk with all garage lights off, if you look closely around the center of the screen, based on your computer's brightness settings, you may be able to slightly make out the white letters on top of my battery box, this will hold true for the next few pics:
A picture looking at the bulb lit and it's lighting effects on the surrounding area:
Showing the lighting effects of the incandescent bulb:
Again, if you look close you'll see the white FULL RACE sticker on top of the battery box:
One more of the incandescent bulb:
OK, here's the important pics, pay attention, these are taken outside of the trunk, pointing at the trunk, WITH an extended exposure to gather what light it can. (If you want to know how long the exposure is, it's a 7.2mp Sony P200 point and shoot on night setting, so there's no way to tell, as it's automatic.)
SPECIAL NOTE: These pics are all taken in my garage, with the door shut for total darkness. I have two incandescent bulbs on the garage door motor, and I have two dual-bulb florescent lights hung from the ceiling in front of the cars. Both lights are towards the back of the garage, and when the trunk is opened on the car, casts a shadow over the trunk area, shielding it from the light. You may find this trivial and hilarious, but if I'm going to the trouble to show you how dramatic a simple lighting upgrade can be, I want there to be no questions.
This picture was taken of the trunk, with only the 194 5watt wedge bulb lighting it, with NO garage lights on:
This picture is again taken with just the 194 bulb, with the dual incandescent garage lights on:
And this was once again taken with the 194 bulb, with both the incandescent AND florescent garage lights on:
Now that you've seen and agree how much the stock lighting SUCKS, let's try something different.
Here's the removed 194 wedge bulb:
And here's a comparison of the wedge bulb to what we are replacing it with; a universal 12 LED setup utilizing 12 white, even spread, flat-top high end Luxor LEDs, all mounted on a high quality circuit board. This setup uses ONLY half of a watt of power, and due to the flat top, even spread lighting effects, creates NO hot spots of light and emits NO HEAT! Cool huh!
Again
Let's keep going...
Here's the receptacle that we have to use. The reason a 'universal' kit was used is due to the lighting receptacle and it's placement in the trunk, it doesn't leave a lot of options...
Now you need to look around the area and figure out the best way to mount the light to distribute the light evenly throughout the trunk, just get an idea, DON'T MOUNT IT YET!
It's now time to plug the light into the 194 bulb receptacle adapter (there are 2 other forms of adapters in this kit.)
After you plug in the light into the adapter, we need to test to see which side of the adapter has the right polarity, so touch the bulb to the receptacle, if nothing happens, the adapter is 180 degrees backwards, meaning the polarity is wrong:
If that's the case, NO WORRIES, just flip it and try it again! BINGO!
Alright, now pull it back out, and figure exactly how you want to mount it. You only have a small amount of wire and though you could extend the wires and mount it anywhere, I didn't want to.
There are 3 different thicknesses of double-sided, adhesive strips provided with the kit, I used the medium thickness. Peel back ONE side of the strips and place them on the back of the light board:
Peel back the last cover of the double-sided adhesive and be careful not to stick it to anything and contaminate it. Now plug in the light, making sure it's lit up with the right polarity. You can now stick the light in it's final resting place. BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS ON THE LEDS THEMSELVES: only use soft but firm pressure around the edges of the circuit board!
As you can see, it's BRIGHT. Here's a picture taken with the camera USING the flash:
One more without flash:
Now it's time to see the fruits of your efforts! Remember those important pics from above? Here's the same shot, taken outside the trunk, with NO garage lights on, and the same settings on the camera:
Taken in the trunk to see the light and it's effects. Due to the even-spread light effect, there's less shadows:
Another:
Here's the last picture, taken like the other important ones, with ALL garage lights on. The ambient lighting really has no effect on the trunk anymore, as everything is lit from the LEDs!
The effect this upgrade has is even greater in person, the pictures don't do it justice, and there are a number of members on this board that will agree.
[post_title] => LED interior lights: Trunk Lamp
[post_excerpt] => Alright, so, this is what we start with. Test vehicle is a 1995 240sx base model (which, for the trunk, means nothing, as the SE model is no different in the trunk). I enjoy nearly every aspect of my car, I love it, but there was always something left to be had when I'd open the trunk or door at night or in low-light areas. What can we do about that? Well I have the answer...
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[post_content] => by Dano
Overview:
Alright, so, this is what we start with. Test vehicle is a 1995 240sx base model (which, for the trunk, means nothing, as the SE model is no different in the trunk). I enjoy nearly every aspect of my car, I love it, but there was always something left to be had when I'd open the trunk or door at night or in low-light areas. What can we do about that? Well I have the answer... http://www.LEDdomelight.com lighting upgrade kits! Matt approached myself and some of the other guys at NOPI Nationals in Atlanta this year with a new product, and it just so happens that this is something I've been looking for for a long time, but never found something that really piqued my interest, until now. He showed me these lighting upgrades and I had to try it for myself, so I want to share it with you now, cuz this rocks! Let's see what it has to offer!
Difficulty: *
Time: 15-20 minutes (max)
Cost: $45
Materials:
- LED interior light
Procedure:
Here's what we began with, a blue-tinted incandescent 194 5 watt wedge bulb:
A closer look:
(I don't want you to brighten your monitor because I want you to see the change this upgrade has made)
A pic of the open trunk with all garage lights off, if you look closely around the center of the screen, based on your computer's brightness settings, you may be able to slightly make out the white letters on top of my battery box, this will hold true for the next few pics:
A picture looking at the bulb lit and it's lighting effects on the surrounding area:
Showing the lighting effects of the incandescent bulb:
Again, if you look close you'll see the white FULL RACE sticker on top of the battery box:
One more of the incandescent bulb:
OK, here's the important pics, pay attention, these are taken outside of the trunk, pointing at the trunk, WITH an extended exposure to gather what light it can. (If you want to know how long the exposure is, it's a 7.2mp Sony P200 point and shoot on night setting, so there's no way to tell, as it's automatic.)
SPECIAL NOTE: These pics are all taken in my garage, with the door shut for total darkness. I have two incandescent bulbs on the garage door motor, and I have two dual-bulb florescent lights hung from the ceiling in front of the cars. Both lights are towards the back of the garage, and when the trunk is opened on the car, casts a shadow over the trunk area, shielding it from the light. You may find this trivial and hilarious, but if I'm going to the trouble to show you how dramatic a simple lighting upgrade can be, I want there to be no questions.
This picture was taken of the trunk, with only the 194 5watt wedge bulb lighting it, with NO garage lights on:
This picture is again taken with just the 194 bulb, with the dual incandescent garage lights on:
And this was once again taken with the 194 bulb, with both the incandescent AND florescent garage lights on:
Now that you've seen and agree how much the stock lighting SUCKS, let's try something different.
Here's the removed 194 wedge bulb:
And here's a comparison of the wedge bulb to what we are replacing it with; a universal 12 LED setup utilizing 12 white, even spread, flat-top high end Luxor LEDs, all mounted on a high quality circuit board. This setup uses ONLY half of a watt of power, and due to the flat top, even spread lighting effects, creates NO hot spots of light and emits NO HEAT! Cool huh!
Again
Let's keep going...
Here's the receptacle that we have to use. The reason a 'universal' kit was used is due to the lighting receptacle and it's placement in the trunk, it doesn't leave a lot of options...
Now you need to look around the area and figure out the best way to mount the light to distribute the light evenly throughout the trunk, just get an idea, DON'T MOUNT IT YET!
It's now time to plug the light into the 194 bulb receptacle adapter (there are 2 other forms of adapters in this kit.)
After you plug in the light into the adapter, we need to test to see which side of the adapter has the right polarity, so touch the bulb to the receptacle, if nothing happens, the adapter is 180 degrees backwards, meaning the polarity is wrong:
If that's the case, NO WORRIES, just flip it and try it again! BINGO!
Alright, now pull it back out, and figure exactly how you want to mount it. You only have a small amount of wire and though you could extend the wires and mount it anywhere, I didn't want to.
There are 3 different thicknesses of double-sided, adhesive strips provided with the kit, I used the medium thickness. Peel back ONE side of the strips and place them on the back of the light board:
Peel back the last cover of the double-sided adhesive and be careful not to stick it to anything and contaminate it. Now plug in the light, making sure it's lit up with the right polarity. You can now stick the light in it's final resting place. BE CAREFUL NOT TO PRESS ON THE LEDS THEMSELVES: only use soft but firm pressure around the edges of the circuit board!
As you can see, it's BRIGHT. Here's a picture taken with the camera USING the flash:
One more without flash:
Now it's time to see the fruits of your efforts! Remember those important pics from above? Here's the same shot, taken outside the trunk, with NO garage lights on, and the same settings on the camera:
Taken in the trunk to see the light and it's effects. Due to the even-spread light effect, there's less shadows:
Another:
Here's the last picture, taken like the other important ones, with ALL garage lights on. The ambient lighting really has no effect on the trunk anymore, as everything is lit from the LEDs!
The effect this upgrade has is even greater in person, the pictures don't do it justice, and there are a number of members on this board that will agree.
[post_title] => LED interior lights: Trunk Lamp
[post_excerpt] => Alright, so, this is what we start with. Test vehicle is a 1995 240sx base model (which, for the trunk, means nothing, as the SE model is no different in the trunk). I enjoy nearly every aspect of my car, I love it, but there was always something left to be had when I'd open the trunk or door at night or in low-light areas. What can we do about that? Well I have the answer...
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"
Alright, so, this is what we start with. Test vehicle is a 1995 240sx base model (which, for the trunk, means nothing, as the SE model is no different in the trunk). I enjoy nearly every aspect of my car, I love it, but there was always something left to be had when I’d open the trunk or door at night or in low-light areas. What can we do about that? Well I have the answer…
First Impressions:
When I started the car, I noticed it didn't have to run the starter near as long as I did before I installed the flywheel. I drove home from my dad's house (300) miles keeping it under 3k RPMs to give it a good break in. I wouldn't recommend getting the freshly installed flywheel over 4k RPMs, the manufacturer recommends a 200-500 mile break in period to let the flywheel seat properly. The car revs a LOT faster now, I'm not really one to rev at people, but let's just say I can now. Before I had to lay my foot on the throttle for 2 seconds to get it up to 5000rpms, now a small blip will get the tach up there. After the break in, I did my first 0-60 run. Using my G-tech (which isn't very accurate) my 0-60 WAS 8.65 seconds. With a new clutch and this flywheel it is now 8.02 seconds.
I haven't experienced the loss of driveability that a lot of people have talked about in some other posts. I can still let out on the clutch with NO throttle and not stall out. The KA has a surplus of torque and installing this flywheel has not adversely effected it. Driving up hills isn't as labor intensive as a lot of people make it out to be. You don't have to downshift if you've got some speed going into it. Hard launches will of course be compromised due to the loss in reciprocating mass, but the top end gained from the flywheel makes up for the poorer launch.
Conclusions:
From the 100 or so hard miles I've put on this flywheel so far, I would have to say this product is DEFINITELY recommended. Like I said before, the KA has a LOT of torque, but what it doesn't have is high end power. We've all experienced the "dropoff" at 5500. This flywheel has basically moved my entire power band from "3k - 5k" to "3.5k - 6k". It will lose a little bit of grunt right around 3000, but the gain in upper RPM power more than makes up for it. So if you think losing some of the KA's lower end power for a large gain in high end power then this product is for you. I highly recommend this product and I also highly recommend Enjuku Racing. They got this to me in 3 days and for a better price than a lot of other places. Support NICOclub.com and buy from sponsors!
A quick "pro/con" for people who don't want to read:
Pros
- Faster revs.
- Rev matching on downshifts is awesome now. Just a tiny blip of the throttle to get 2k RPMs.
- Makes it feel like a CAR engine, not a truck motor.
- Passing on the highway is a lot better.
- Easier starting.
- Fills the void in power past 5k RPMs.
- Better gas mileage. (I haven't had it long enough to get an average, but after one tank of gas it beats my normal average of 27.3, now it's 28.6.)
Cons
- Revs drop a lot faster, not cool for autoXing. Push in the clutch and it drops to 750 rpms.
- $300 could be spent on something that gains more power.
- Apparently some people lose some driveability due to the "loss" in torque. I haven't experienced this.
- Some people may find it difficult to install.
- You'll get more speeding tickets.
Hope you enjoyed the article, there's a lot more 240sx installation articles at 
