"q45-heater-replacement"
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[post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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[post_content] => By: Brian (bigdog76) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=156041
1.Fixing the Heater was not all fun I will admit.
2.However it is possible and it’s not to hard to do. It took me much longer than I wanted but can be done in 2-4 hours, for under $10 if you have the tools to do it.
3.First start by removing the radio/Acc Controls.And later the glove box area. You will have to unplug all of the plugs.
4. Once you get back there leave the ACC control plugged in so you can see how things operate.
5.You will see the Air Mix door post broken. What you will see is the Air Mix door linkage hanging from a spring you will need to remove that linkage and take off the spring with pliers. Take it out for now. ACC will still work fine at this point.
6. In the Pics you will notice I also removing the control unit that operates the linkages you will need to remove that to have room to work on the broken post.There is 3 screws one on top and bottom and side.
7. Once things are clear you will need a DREMEL tool with a grinding wheel to clean the broken plastic that came off the Air Mix door post. The post is now metal under the plastic that broke.
8. Once that is all cleaned up nice. You can begin to fabricate the part that will link to it and get it operational.
9. I used an Aluminum Dowel 3/8" in diameter. I do not recommend the Aluminum it is too hard of a material to work with.But it’s up to you.Plastic/Nylon rod is all you really need and some epoxy later on. Use a Plastic dowel 3/8" in diameter. You can buy it from a hobby shop or go to this link copy and paste it.
http://www.usplastic.com/catal...age=1.Otherwise go to http://www.usplastic.com
10.I used a bench grinder to shape the dowel into the half circle to fit into the linkage piece that was remove you can see what I mean in the pictures and when you get back in there in the job. But you can use the dremel if you are using plastic.
11. Make sure it is a good fit.Also make sure that it fits flush with the outside of the linkage piece.I screwed in a small screw and grinded down washer on mine. You can do the same or just epoxy it well when installing back in.
12. Once you have fabricated that side you will need to cut it down to about 3/4" or small give or take. Any longer that that it will not work it will bind and be to long and tight once it is in place.
13.Once you cut it down.You will need to cut a half shaped circle shape just like the heater door rod.This will be internal and small this will take the most time.I put it in a vice and used a drill to shape it the best I could. You can do the same or use a small file and a drill. Start out small so you can test the size as you go to the air mix post metal rod.
14. Don’t cut it to big you want to cut and shape it the best you can to match up to the air mix door rod as best you can so it fits like a glove.
The epoxy will make up the difference and hold it into place.
15. Make sure that both of the flat side of the half shaped circle that you fabricated out are on the same side mirroring each other. This is very important.
16. Once that is all done re install the control unit and make sure the A/C is on the coldest side 65 degrees that is where you want it to be when you reinstall everything.
17.I used 90 second epoxy which dries very fast you might choose to pic a slower acting epoxy but that is up to you.Read the directions of the epoxy and put some on the end on the metal air mix door post and on the inside on the fabricated piece and quickly install linkage into place.It will hold it into place pretty good so no worries.
18. If you choose to just epoxy in the fabricated piece first that is find or you can epoxy the linkage to the fabricated piece first and then epoxy the air mix door rod to the whole piece and set it in place.
19. Next once everything was in place I let it dry about 2-3 hours.
Then I removed the glove box to get to the spring area to reinstall the spring back in place. You can see in the pics.
20. Make sure it is working.After that leave it alone for 24 hours so the epoxy can cure and be at its strongest.
21. If you have any questions feel free to post on the above thread.
[post_title] => Q45 Heater Mix Door Removal / Replacement
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[post_content] => By: Brian (bigdog76)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=156041
1.Fixing the Heater was not all fun I will admit.
2.However it is possible and it’s not to hard to do. It took me much longer than I wanted but can be done in 2-4 hours, for under $10 if you have the tools to do it.
3.First start by removing the radio/Acc Controls.And later the glove box area. You will have to unplug all of the plugs.
4. Once you get back there leave the ACC control plugged in so you can see how things operate.
5.You will see the Air Mix door post broken. What you will see is the Air Mix door linkage hanging from a spring you will need to remove that linkage and take off the spring with pliers. Take it out for now. ACC will still work fine at this point.
6. In the Pics you will notice I also removing the control unit that operates the linkages you will need to remove that to have room to work on the broken post.There is 3 screws one on top and bottom and side.
7. Once things are clear you will need a DREMEL tool with a grinding wheel to clean the broken plastic that came off the Air Mix door post. The post is now metal under the plastic that broke.
8. Once that is all cleaned up nice. You can begin to fabricate the part that will link to it and get it operational.
9. I used an Aluminum Dowel 3/8" in diameter. I do not recommend the Aluminum it is too hard of a material to work with.But it’s up to you.Plastic/Nylon rod is all you really need and some epoxy later on. Use a Plastic dowel 3/8" in diameter. You can buy it from a hobby shop or go to this link copy and paste it.
http://www.usplastic.com/catal...age=1.Otherwise go to http://www.usplastic.com
10.I used a bench grinder to shape the dowel into the half circle to fit into the linkage piece that was remove you can see what I mean in the pictures and when you get back in there in the job. But you can use the dremel if you are using plastic.
11. Make sure it is a good fit.Also make sure that it fits flush with the outside of the linkage piece.I screwed in a small screw and grinded down washer on mine. You can do the same or just epoxy it well when installing back in.
12. Once you have fabricated that side you will need to cut it down to about 3/4" or small give or take. Any longer that that it will not work it will bind and be to long and tight once it is in place.
13.Once you cut it down.You will need to cut a half shaped circle shape just like the heater door rod.This will be internal and small this will take the most time.I put it in a vice and used a drill to shape it the best I could. You can do the same or use a small file and a drill. Start out small so you can test the size as you go to the air mix post metal rod.
14. Don’t cut it to big you want to cut and shape it the best you can to match up to the air mix door rod as best you can so it fits like a glove.
The epoxy will make up the difference and hold it into place.
15. Make sure that both of the flat side of the half shaped circle that you fabricated out are on the same side mirroring each other. This is very important.
16. Once that is all done re install the control unit and make sure the A/C is on the coldest side 65 degrees that is where you want it to be when you reinstall everything.
17.I used 90 second epoxy which dries very fast you might choose to pic a slower acting epoxy but that is up to you.Read the directions of the epoxy and put some on the end on the metal air mix door post and on the inside on the fabricated piece and quickly install linkage into place.It will hold it into place pretty good so no worries.
18. If you choose to just epoxy in the fabricated piece first that is find or you can epoxy the linkage to the fabricated piece first and then epoxy the air mix door rod to the whole piece and set it in place.
19. Next once everything was in place I let it dry about 2-3 hours.
Then I removed the glove box to get to the spring area to reinstall the spring back in place. You can see in the pics.
20. Make sure it is working.After that leave it alone for 24 hours so the epoxy can cure and be at its strongest.
21. If you have any questions feel free to post on the above thread.
[post_title] => Q45 Heater Mix Door Removal / Replacement
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"
By: Brian (bigdog76) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=156041 1.Fixing the Heater was not all fun I will admit. 2.However it is possible and it’s not to hard to do. It took me much longer than I wanted but can be done in 2-4 hours, for under $10 if you have the tools to do it. 3.First start by removing […]
Now in order to get at the high-pressure line directly below the bigger low-pressure line I remove the bracket in the picture below by removing the nut. (Replace the nut when the bracket has been removed so you don’t lose it)
With the bracket unhooked it’s easy to move and manipulate the lines to get to the smaller high-pressure line directly below the high-pressure line you just unfastened. The 17mm wrench and 19mm wrench are needed here. Now I would suggest wrapping the ends of lines from the engine compartment with duct tape to keep the critters out.
Now in the car behind the glove box is a back wall, which you will have to remove using the Phillips screwdriver. There are a number of screws including two plastic screw fasteners at the top. Once all the screws are out pull the wall down and place all your screws where you won’t loose them. You should now be looking at this:
To the right you can see your blower motor and in the middle is the cooling unit, which you’ll be pulling right out shortly. Looks like it’s really in there doesn’t it? Don’t worry; it’s not all that bad. That bar will be coming out but first you’ll have to move over to the right and remove the trim you see here and it’s very easy:
Next the bar comes out. There are a few different screws that have to come out and once 10mm nut comes off to the right. Just follow the bar and you’ll see all the screws and bolt that have to come off:
It’s almost done!! Going back to this picture there are a few connectors to disconnect and 6 screws to remove:
Once the cooling unit is apart and the evaporator is pulled out you may have a little cleaning to do! Keep in mind that I have a 14-year-old car and it doesn’t look like anyone has visited here in a while:
Tape the high and low-pressure lines up ASAP so you don’t contaminate them with dirt, bugs or whatever. I used the blower attached to an airline to blow out the evaporator with some high-pressure air. I also unwrapped the expansion valve. The copper lines you see in this picture are part of the expansion valve:
So there you have it. Not to hard, but it take some time and patience. That’s as simple as I can make it and if I missed something you will be able to make your own decision as to how to do it. I just hope this helps a little. I'm sure someone will find something wrong with it.
Oh yeah, this according to Infiniti's own books, which I now have in my possession, I saved 1.3 hrs on the evaporator core unit, 1.3 hrs on the changing of the expansion valve, 1.3 hrs on the evaporator case(cooling unit) and .4 hrs on the glove box assembly. So 4.3 hrs at $90 -$120 hr dealer rate, $75 hr foreign auto mechanic rate, $65 neighborhood chop shop rate or $0 using this article!
[post_title] => How to remove Q45 HVAC Evaporator and Cooling Unit
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[post_modified] => 2011-02-26 23:38:41
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[post_content] => Here’s a little write-up on how to remove the Cooling Unit from your G50 Q45. The Cooling Unit is where the AC evaporator is found as well as the expansion valve. I’m starting with the glove box already removed, since most of us have done this and to help keep this short and sweet. I’ve included a few pictures to help you visualize the write up. I’m following what I did and I do not claim to be a Q45 mechanic.
Tools you’ll need:
Large crescent wrench
17mm wrench
12mm wrench
19mm wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Ratchet
Extension
10mm socket
12mm socket
Razor blade
First thing I did was remove negative cable from the battery post then released the pressure from the AC system (officially vacuumed the system since simply releasing freon is strictly against the law!!) so I could remove the high and low pressure lines at the firewall in the engine compartment. In the picture below you’ll see the big low-pressure line, which I unfastened first. This is where I used the large crescent wrench. (32, 30mm)
