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How To Turn On Foglights Separately from Headlights (Use as DRLs)

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Applied Vehicle(s):  Infiniti QX4, Nissan Pathfinder
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  1½ hours
Written By: bmlawless




Estimated Total Cost: $10.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   







DISCLAIMER:
This guide outlines the procedure I used to modify my 1999 Infiniti QX4. This modification may be illegal in some areas, please check local laws.

PURPOSE:
Performing this modification will change the behavior of the fog light switch. The factory design allows the fog lights to operate only when the low beams are on. The fog lights will now operate any time the ignition is on.

BACKGROUND:
Prior to this modification, the headlights only worked when the low beams were on. Additionally, the fog lamps turned off when the high beams were activated. I drive with my headlights on during the days and wanted to be able to use my fog lights as daytime running lights. In order to do accomplish these goals, the lights would need to be wired in such a way that the fog lights would turn on any time the fog light switch was turned on regardless of the headlight status. In addition, the lights would need to turn off whenever the ignition was turned off.

OVERVIEW:
The factory design uses a separate relay for the fog lights. The fog light relay coil circuit is in series with the headlamp circuit with the fog lamp switch being located after the relay. By simply replacing the relay's headlight power source with another ignition-based power source, we can achieve the desired behavior.

PROCEDURE:


STEP 1- Located the relay box under the hood. Mine was on the driver's side fender. Identify the relay for the fog lamps using the guide on top. Mine was identified as "FR FOG". Remove the cover to expose the relays.


STEP 2- Remove the factory relay. I chose to remove the factory relay and replace it with a relay from Radio Shack, part number #275-0226. You will need to trim the mounting tab from the relay in order for it to fit in the relay box. Locate the pin on the relay labeled "85" and remove it completely.




STEP 3- Remove the cover from the relay by prying it off with a small screwdriver.


STEP 4- Identify the post inside the relay that corresponds to pin 85. Solder a wire to the post. Be sure that you have a good connection. I used brown wire since this is a common color for a wire that is active only when the ignition is on. Drill a hole or cut a small groove in the relay cover and thread the wire through it.





STEP 5- Connect the brown wire to the new power supply source. I connected mine to the A/C relay in the relay box. I again replaced the relay with the same Radio Shack relay. Make the connection by soldering the wire to pin 30 and making a hole in the relay cover like you did in step 4. Do not remove any of the pins on the A/C relay. Replace the relays and test operation of the fog lamps and A/C.


If all goes well, you shall have independently functioning fog lights!

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Applied Vehicle(s):  Infiniti QX4, Nissan Pathfinder
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  1½ hours
Written By: bmlawless




Estimated Total Cost: $10.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   







DISCLAIMER:
This guide outlines the procedure I used to modify my 1999 Infiniti QX4. This modification may be illegal in some areas, please check local laws.

PURPOSE:
Performing this modification will change the behavior of the fog light switch. The factory design allows the fog lights to operate only when the low beams are on. The fog lights will now operate any time the ignition is on.

BACKGROUND:
Prior to this modification, the headlights only worked when the low beams were on. Additionally, the fog lamps turned off when the high beams were activated. I drive with my headlights on during the days and wanted to be able to use my fog lights as daytime running lights. In order to do accomplish these goals, the lights would need to be wired in such a way that the fog lights would turn on any time the fog light switch was turned on regardless of the headlight status. In addition, the lights would need to turn off whenever the ignition was turned off.

OVERVIEW:
The factory design uses a separate relay for the fog lights. The fog light relay coil circuit is in series with the headlamp circuit with the fog lamp switch being located after the relay. By simply replacing the relay's headlight power source with another ignition-based power source, we can achieve the desired behavior.

PROCEDURE:


STEP 1- Located the relay box under the hood. Mine was on the driver's side fender. Identify the relay for the fog lamps using the guide on top. Mine was identified as "FR FOG". Remove the cover to expose the relays.


STEP 2- Remove the factory relay. I chose to remove the factory relay and replace it with a relay from Radio Shack, part number #275-0226. You will need to trim the mounting tab from the relay in order for it to fit in the relay box. Locate the pin on the relay labeled "85" and remove it completely.




STEP 3- Remove the cover from the relay by prying it off with a small screwdriver.


STEP 4- Identify the post inside the relay that corresponds to pin 85. Solder a wire to the post. Be sure that you have a good connection. I used brown wire since this is a common color for a wire that is active only when the ignition is on. Drill a hole or cut a small groove in the relay cover and thread the wire through it.





STEP 5- Connect the brown wire to the new power supply source. I connected mine to the A/C relay in the relay box. I again replaced the relay with the same Radio Shack relay. Make the connection by soldering the wire to pin 30 and making a hole in the relay cover like you did in step 4. Do not remove any of the pins on the A/C relay. Replace the relays and test operation of the fog lamps and A/C.


If all goes well, you shall have independently functioning fog lights!

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"

Applied Vehicle(s): Infiniti QX4, Nissan Pathfinder Difficulty Rating: Estimated Labor Time: 1½ hours Written By: bmlawless Estimated Total Cost: $10.00 Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub’s Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums DISCLAIMER: This guide outlines the procedure I used to modify my 1999 Infiniti QX4. This modification may be illegal in some areas, […]

Connect your iPod (or other MP3 player) to the Factory Audio System

by 

"connect-your-ipod-or-other-mp3-player-to-the-factory-audio-system-infiniti-qx"
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Applied Vehicle(s):  Infiniti QX4
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  1½ hours
Written By: rwardell




Estimated Total Cost: $20.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   







This is a cheap and easy way to connect a 3.5mm standard head phone jack to the factory Bose head unit in an Infiniti QX4 in place of the CD player, thus allowing you to connect any external audio source.

First, load the Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) for both the Body & Trim and the Electronics System. These will give you instructions on where to pry to remove the trim around the head unit, as well as all the wiring diagrams for the head unit itself.

Tools/Supplies Required:

-Small Flathead screw driver covered in cloth (denim works well) or plastic no-mar pry tools to remove trim

-Phillips head screwdriver #2 to remove screws securing trim/head unit

-Small screwdriver to help remove electrical connectors

-Knife/Box cutter to remove shrink tape from harness

-Wire cutters

-Wire stripper (optional)

-Butt connectors/Electrical tape

- 4 OR 6ft 3.5mm-3.5mm audio cable (head phone jack on both ends)

-Drill (optional)

STEP 1: Set the parking brake and using a key/screw driver depress the shift lock button and pull it back to 1st to give yourself some room to work with, cover the center console with a blanket or protective material to prevent scratching of the trim.
STEP 2: Remove trim. Follow the FSM instruction to remove trim by removing the vents above the head unit, then the rest of the trim.
STEP 3: Remove head unit by un-screwing the four screws at top and bottom.
Step 4: Cut and peel back the shrink wrap on the wiring harness that connects the disc changer to the head unit:



*It's the smaller top left plug when looking at the back of the unit
STEP 5: Cut the blue and green wires about 1.5-2" away from the connector (less if need be) and strip the insulation from 1/4"



*The striped wires are negatives and can be wired together.
STEP 6: Cut one of the ends of of the stereo cable and strip wires. (neg will be the un insulated RT will be red LT will be black in most cases)
STEP 7: connect the red wire of the audio cable to the solid green harness wire, connect the black wire to the solid blue wire and connect the ground to both striped wires.
STEP 8: secure connections to harness and tape exposed wires. route audio cable down and out of the console or drill a hole in the cup holder and rout the cable through the whole.
STEP 9: Re-install head unit and trim
Step 10: For the best sound - set your iPod's volume to maximum and stereo volume to minimum. Then connect to the newly installed headphone jack, push the CD button, and play the audio on your iPod.

Post modification observations:

-Works well to connect external source without interference of an FM transmitter/modulator.

-The maximum volume is not as loud as FM maximum volume due to the lower input power from the iPod

-Must be a CD in the changer for input to work, CD changer no longer works since we cut the wires.

Overall I prefer having the iPod connection over the CD player, but, for some, this may be a deal breaker. The only solution I have thought of is to use a tap splice to connect the headphone cable rather then cutting the wires and having the CD player paused when you'd like to listen to your iPod. As far as the volume goes, if it's not loud enough for your taste then you may purchase a pre-amp or a new system all together.
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Applied Vehicle(s):  Infiniti QX4
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  1½ hours
Written By: rwardell




Estimated Total Cost: $20.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   







This is a cheap and easy way to connect a 3.5mm standard head phone jack to the factory Bose head unit in an Infiniti QX4 in place of the CD player, thus allowing you to connect any external audio source.

First, load the Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) for both the Body & Trim and the Electronics System. These will give you instructions on where to pry to remove the trim around the head unit, as well as all the wiring diagrams for the head unit itself.

Tools/Supplies Required:

-Small Flathead screw driver covered in cloth (denim works well) or plastic no-mar pry tools to remove trim

-Phillips head screwdriver #2 to remove screws securing trim/head unit

-Small screwdriver to help remove electrical connectors

-Knife/Box cutter to remove shrink tape from harness

-Wire cutters

-Wire stripper (optional)

-Butt connectors/Electrical tape

- 4 OR 6ft 3.5mm-3.5mm audio cable (head phone jack on both ends)

-Drill (optional)

STEP 1: Set the parking brake and using a key/screw driver depress the shift lock button and pull it back to 1st to give yourself some room to work with, cover the center console with a blanket or protective material to prevent scratching of the trim.
STEP 2: Remove trim. Follow the FSM instruction to remove trim by removing the vents above the head unit, then the rest of the trim.
STEP 3: Remove head unit by un-screwing the four screws at top and bottom.
Step 4: Cut and peel back the shrink wrap on the wiring harness that connects the disc changer to the head unit:



*It's the smaller top left plug when looking at the back of the unit
STEP 5: Cut the blue and green wires about 1.5-2" away from the connector (less if need be) and strip the insulation from 1/4"



*The striped wires are negatives and can be wired together.
STEP 6: Cut one of the ends of of the stereo cable and strip wires. (neg will be the un insulated RT will be red LT will be black in most cases)
STEP 7: connect the red wire of the audio cable to the solid green harness wire, connect the black wire to the solid blue wire and connect the ground to both striped wires.
STEP 8: secure connections to harness and tape exposed wires. route audio cable down and out of the console or drill a hole in the cup holder and rout the cable through the whole.
STEP 9: Re-install head unit and trim
Step 10: For the best sound - set your iPod's volume to maximum and stereo volume to minimum. Then connect to the newly installed headphone jack, push the CD button, and play the audio on your iPod.

Post modification observations:

-Works well to connect external source without interference of an FM transmitter/modulator.

-The maximum volume is not as loud as FM maximum volume due to the lower input power from the iPod

-Must be a CD in the changer for input to work, CD changer no longer works since we cut the wires.

Overall I prefer having the iPod connection over the CD player, but, for some, this may be a deal breaker. The only solution I have thought of is to use a tap splice to connect the headphone cable rather then cutting the wires and having the CD player paused when you'd like to listen to your iPod. As far as the volume goes, if it's not loud enough for your taste then you may purchase a pre-amp or a new system all together.
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Applied Vehicle(s): Infiniti QX4 Difficulty Rating: Estimated Labor Time: 1½ hours Written By: rwardell Estimated Total Cost: $20.00 Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub’s Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums This is a cheap and easy way to connect a 3.5mm standard head phone jack to the factory Bose head unit in […]

Install Subframe Collars

by 

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                    [post_date] => 2009-12-16 20:58:36
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                    [post_content] => 










Applied Vehicle(s):  Infiniti Q45
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  2½ hours
Written By: subtle_driver




Estimated Total Cost: $60.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   







I acquired some subframe collars from Powered by Max (see product link at bottom of article), thanks to my friend Will - I'm helping him swap in a ka24de-turbo.

They are actually for the 240sx (S13), but they fit perfectly in my 1990 Q45 and perform as they are designed to:

Subframe collars are designed to eliminate the slop from the rubber bushings. The sub-frame will move up and down when you accelerate and corner.

    

  

 

 I'm my case, the bushings were torn from all the hard launches from drag racing, the g-forces from Autocross and Gymkhana driving event.

1) Support the car on jack stands. They must be positioned on the pinch welds (on the side of the uni-body), so you can lower the sub-frame independently from the body. Keep the lifting jack under the diff to support the sub-frame, thus allowing you to raise and lower it.

2) Remove the two 17mm nuts in the back and just loosen the 17mm and 14mm nuts on the front so it will tilt back.

3) Lower the sub-frame down till you can slide the bigger top collar in, it has a slot cut out so you can do this, make sure to face the flat part up, and the stepped part downward.

 

 4) Raise the sub-frame and install the lower collar, smaller one (Make sure to face the small step facing upwards, and the larger step facing downwards; it should fit snug in the stock bushing), then the big stock washer and 17mm nut.

 

 5) Proceed to the front and repeat the previous steps.



 

 

 6) Tighten all the bolts and nuts. Enjoy that lack of slop in the suspension and drive-train!

Product Link: http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?17
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Applied Vehicle(s):  Infiniti Q45
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  2½ hours
Written By: subtle_driver




Estimated Total Cost: $60.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   







I acquired some subframe collars from Powered by Max (see product link at bottom of article), thanks to my friend Will - I'm helping him swap in a ka24de-turbo.

They are actually for the 240sx (S13), but they fit perfectly in my 1990 Q45 and perform as they are designed to:

Subframe collars are designed to eliminate the slop from the rubber bushings. The sub-frame will move up and down when you accelerate and corner.

    

  

 

 I'm my case, the bushings were torn from all the hard launches from drag racing, the g-forces from Autocross and Gymkhana driving event.

1) Support the car on jack stands. They must be positioned on the pinch welds (on the side of the uni-body), so you can lower the sub-frame independently from the body. Keep the lifting jack under the diff to support the sub-frame, thus allowing you to raise and lower it.

2) Remove the two 17mm nuts in the back and just loosen the 17mm and 14mm nuts on the front so it will tilt back.

3) Lower the sub-frame down till you can slide the bigger top collar in, it has a slot cut out so you can do this, make sure to face the flat part up, and the stepped part downward.

 

 4) Raise the sub-frame and install the lower collar, smaller one (Make sure to face the small step facing upwards, and the larger step facing downwards; it should fit snug in the stock bushing), then the big stock washer and 17mm nut.

 

 5) Proceed to the front and repeat the previous steps.



 

 

 6) Tighten all the bolts and nuts. Enjoy that lack of slop in the suspension and drive-train!

Product Link: http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?17
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Applied Vehicle(s): Infiniti Q45 Difficulty Rating: Estimated Labor Time: 2½ hours Written By: subtle_driver Estimated Total Cost: $60.00 Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub’s Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums I acquired some subframe collars from Powered by Max (see product link at bottom of article), thanks to my friend Will – I’m helping him […]

1999 Infiniti QX4 – NICOclub Ride of the Month October 2006

by 

"qx4-nicoclub-october"
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1999 Infiniti QX4 - Owned by : Lauren (99QX4)


INTERIOR MODS:
Pioneer AVH-P5700DVD in-dash touch screen head unit, Rockford Fosgate Punch speakers in the front and rear doors, Three 12-inch Rockford Fosgate subwoofers with a Kenwood amp. 

EXTERIOR MODS:
 Custom two-tone silver paint, 20% tint on the front and privacy glass on the rear windows, custom clear corners, Piaa Super Plasma GT-X headlights and corner light bulbs, custom “QX4” third brake light, 18-inch Enkei RT-6 rims with 255/55 Toyo Proxes S/T, Stillen cross drilled rotors

ENGINE MODS:
 HKS intake

HISTORY:
I got my 1999.5 QX4 my senior year of High School, it was my first and only car I’ve ever had.Now 6 years later, she is still in perfect condition.The only things that have changed are all the mods I’ve done over the years!Just about every light blub in my car is either Piaa or some type of Xenon bulb.I have gone through numerous head units and systems, and DVD players too.I’m always upgrading!Since my dad owns a body shop, he decided to add custom two-tone silver paint before he gave it to me, and I absolutely love it.Since then I have tried to do as many custom things as I could to make my truck different from the rest.I even got my third brake light to display “QX4” when you hit the brakes!!

Speaking of custom, one of the biggest mods that I wanted more than anything was a pair of clear corners.I searched all over trying to find clear corners for the QX4, and that’s actually how I found NICO.I tried everything, even buying a pair of Pathfinder clear corners which ended up not fitting.After months of having no luck, I stopped my searching.Nobody sold clear corners for the QX4 or knew where I could get them from.I was stuck.It seemed the only option I had was buying them from Japan for $850 which I almost considered doing.Although I gave up on my search for the time being, I didn’t give up hope all together!It took a while, and was very frustrating, but with help I did eventually fabricate a pair of clear corners. 

 The other major mod that I got was my Enkei rims.I’ve had them for 2 years now and they come off every season for the winter.And what complements a nice pair of rims?Cross drilled rotors!I have to say that I love my Stillen cross drilled rotors, they are awesome.For my first brake job my dad was going to put on some aftermarket brakes and I told him no way, I wanted OEM.Then I happened to look at Stillens website and noticed the cross drilled rotors, so I told him I wanted those instead of OEM.I got a laugh and a response of “Geez why do you have to know so much about cars?!” but he ordered them anyway.Now just over 2 years later I am still more than happy with their performance.

I’ve had a great 6 years with my truck, and am looking forward to many more.With only 57,000 miles she is still going strong!I am very dedicated and take only the best care of my baby.No car washes or anything like that; even if that means washing my car when it’s so cold out that the water starts to freeze on the car before you can dry it, because yeah, I’ve done that before and I’d do it again!


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1999 Infiniti QX4 - Owned by : Lauren (99QX4)


INTERIOR MODS:
Pioneer AVH-P5700DVD in-dash touch screen head unit, Rockford Fosgate Punch speakers in the front and rear doors, Three 12-inch Rockford Fosgate subwoofers with a Kenwood amp. 

EXTERIOR MODS:
 Custom two-tone silver paint, 20% tint on the front and privacy glass on the rear windows, custom clear corners, Piaa Super Plasma GT-X headlights and corner light bulbs, custom “QX4” third brake light, 18-inch Enkei RT-6 rims with 255/55 Toyo Proxes S/T, Stillen cross drilled rotors

ENGINE MODS:
 HKS intake

HISTORY:
I got my 1999.5 QX4 my senior year of High School, it was my first and only car I’ve ever had.Now 6 years later, she is still in perfect condition.The only things that have changed are all the mods I’ve done over the years!Just about every light blub in my car is either Piaa or some type of Xenon bulb.I have gone through numerous head units and systems, and DVD players too.I’m always upgrading!Since my dad owns a body shop, he decided to add custom two-tone silver paint before he gave it to me, and I absolutely love it.Since then I have tried to do as many custom things as I could to make my truck different from the rest.I even got my third brake light to display “QX4” when you hit the brakes!!

Speaking of custom, one of the biggest mods that I wanted more than anything was a pair of clear corners.I searched all over trying to find clear corners for the QX4, and that’s actually how I found NICO.I tried everything, even buying a pair of Pathfinder clear corners which ended up not fitting.After months of having no luck, I stopped my searching.Nobody sold clear corners for the QX4 or knew where I could get them from.I was stuck.It seemed the only option I had was buying them from Japan for $850 which I almost considered doing.Although I gave up on my search for the time being, I didn’t give up hope all together!It took a while, and was very frustrating, but with help I did eventually fabricate a pair of clear corners. 

 The other major mod that I got was my Enkei rims.I’ve had them for 2 years now and they come off every season for the winter.And what complements a nice pair of rims?Cross drilled rotors!I have to say that I love my Stillen cross drilled rotors, they are awesome.For my first brake job my dad was going to put on some aftermarket brakes and I told him no way, I wanted OEM.Then I happened to look at Stillens website and noticed the cross drilled rotors, so I told him I wanted those instead of OEM.I got a laugh and a response of “Geez why do you have to know so much about cars?!” but he ordered them anyway.Now just over 2 years later I am still more than happy with their performance.

I’ve had a great 6 years with my truck, and am looking forward to many more.With only 57,000 miles she is still going strong!I am very dedicated and take only the best care of my baby.No car washes or anything like that; even if that means washing my car when it’s so cold out that the water starts to freeze on the car before you can dry it, because yeah, I’ve done that before and I’d do it again!


            [post_title] => 1999 Infiniti QX4 - NICOclub Ride of the Month October 2006
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1999 Infiniti QX4 – Owned by : Lauren (99QX4) INTERIOR MODS:Pioneer AVH-P5700DVD in-dash touch screen head unit, Rockford Fosgate Punch speakers in the front and rear doors, Three 12-inch Rockford Fosgate subwoofers with a Kenwood amp. EXTERIOR MODS: Custom two-tone silver paint, 20% tint on the front and privacy glass on the rear windows, custom […]