"WP_Query Object ( [query] => Array ( [post_status] => publish [post_type] => post [toc_search_post_slug] => z [orderby] => ID [order] => ASC [posts_per_page] => -1 ) [query_vars] => Array ( [post_status] => publish [post_type] => post [toc_search_post_slug] => z [orderby] => ID [order] => ASC [posts_per_page] => -1 [error] => [m] => [p] => 0 [post_parent] => [subpost] => [subpost_id] => [attachment] => [attachment_id] => 0 [name] => [pagename] => [page_id] => 0 [second] => [minute] => [hour] => [day] => 0 [monthnum] => 0 [year] => 0 [w] => 0 [category_name] => [tag] => [cat] => [tag_id] => [author] => [author_name] => [feed] => [tb] => [paged] => 0 [meta_key] => [meta_value] => [preview] => [s] => [sentence] => [title] => [fields] => [menu_order] => [embed] => [category__in] => Array ( ) [category__not_in] => Array ( ) [category__and] => Array ( ) [post__in] => Array ( ) [post__not_in] => Array ( ) [post_name__in] => Array ( ) [tag__in] => Array ( ) [tag__not_in] => Array (  => 4610 ) [tag__and] => Array ( ) [tag_slug__in] => Array ( ) [tag_slug__and] => Array ( ) [post_parent__in] => Array ( ) [post_parent__not_in] => Array ( ) [author__in] => Array ( ) [author__not_in] => Array ( ) [ignore_sticky_posts] => [suppress_filters] => [cache_results] => 1 [update_post_term_cache] => 1 [lazy_load_term_meta] => 1 [update_post_meta_cache] => 1 [nopaging] => 1 [comments_per_page] => 50 [no_found_rows] => ) [tax_query] => WP_Tax_Query Object ( [queries] => Array (  => Array ( [taxonomy] => post_tag [terms] => Array (  => 4610 ) [field] => term_id [operator] => NOT IN [include_children] => 1 ) ) [relation] => AND [table_aliases:protected] => Array ( ) [queried_terms] => Array ( ) [primary_table] => md5q3oa_posts [primary_id_column] => ID ) [meta_query] => WP_Meta_Query Object ( [queries] => Array ( ) [relation] => [meta_table] => [meta_id_column] => [primary_table] => [primary_id_column] => [table_aliases:protected] => Array ( ) [clauses:protected] => Array ( ) [has_or_relation:protected] => ) [date_query] => [request] => SELECT md5q3oa_posts.* FROM md5q3oa_posts WHERE 1=1 AND ( md5q3oa_posts.ID NOT IN ( SELECT object_id FROM md5q3oa_term_relationships WHERE term_taxonomy_id IN (4610) ) ) AND md5q3oa_posts.post_type = 'post' AND ((md5q3oa_posts.post_status = 'publish')) AND md5q3oa_posts.post_name LIKE '%z%' GROUP BY md5q3oa_posts.ID ORDER BY md5q3oa_posts.ID ASC [posts] => Array (  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1272 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_content] => Nissan Announces Pricing on 2007 NISMO 350Z [June 13, 07]
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Posted by: Matt
NASHVILLE (June 13, 2007) – Nissan North America, Inc. today announced pricing on the dramatic new 2007 Nissan NISMO 350Z, which goes on sale in July at Nissan dealers nationwide.The NISMO 350Z, which features an extensively developed list of unique equipment – including a special aerodynamics package and improved handling equipment, is the fifth model in the 2007 350Z Coupe lineup.It is available with a 6-speed manual transmission only and is offered at a Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) of $38,070. Customers are able to pre-order 2007 NISMO 350Zs at Nissan dealers beginning today.
“This is the first time in the Nissan Z’s 37-year history that a NISMO-branded model is part of the extensive Z lineup,” said Bill Bosley, vice president and general manager, Nissan Division.“NISMO is known around the world as the premier supplier of high-performance and racing parts and accessories for Nissan vehicles.The NISMO 350Z is geared towards enthusiasts who want the ultimate 350Z straight from the factory performance experts.”
The most striking visual feature of the new NISMO 350Z is the NISMO aerodynamics package, which strongly resembles the Super GT championship winning Zs.Featuring a functional front fascia with chin spoiler, side skirts, an extended rear fascia with underbody diffuser and a rear wing, the package produces additional aerodynamic downforce to provide enhanced cornering and handling performance.The NISMO 350Z is offered in four exterior colors – Redline Red, Magnetic Black, Silver Alloy and Pikes Peak White.
Additional performance features include a specially tuned independent multi-link suspension, Brembo brakes with four-piston front and two-piston rear calipers (with 12.8-inch front and 12.7-inch rear rotors) and special NISMO-branded gunmetal gray RAYS super-lightweight forged-alloy wheels (18x9-inch front and 19x10-inch rear with 245/40WR18 front, 265/35WR19 rear Bridgestone Potenza RE050A tires).
The NISMO 350Z also offers enhanced structural rigidity through additional body welds and reinforcements, additional front structural bracing, special body dampers mounted in the front radiator core support and in the rear cargo area.
Inside, NISMO 350Z drivers receive special treatment with unique black cloth seats with red inserts, red stitching on the steering wheel and door panels and a special NISMO gray-faced tachometer.All NISMO 350Zs receive a NISMO-etched aluminum serialized plaque mounted on the center console, designating its limited edition status.
The NISMO 350Z includes a full complement of 350Z standard features, including the new VQ35HR 3.5-liter V6 engine producing 306 horsepower at 6,800 RPM and 268 lb-ft of torque at 4,800 RPM – with 240 lb-ft torque available between 2,000 and 6,400 RPM.Engine features include variable exhaust cam timing (eCVTCS), a 7,500 rpm rev limit and a symmetric twin ram air intake system.A special NISMO-branded tuned exhaust adds an authoritative tone to the NISMO 350Z’s 306-horsepower V6 engine.
The standard 6-speed manual transmission features close-ratio gearing from 1st through 5th gears for high-performance driving and an overdrive 6th speed for highway fuel economy.For enhanced handling, standard on the NISMO 350Z is a Traction Control System (TCS) and Viscous Limited-Slip Differential (VLSD).
Also standard is an electronically-controlled vehicle speed-sensitive dual-orifice rack-and-pinion power steering system, front and rear strut tower bracing, and 4-wheel disc Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) with Electronic Brake force Distribution (EBD) and Brake Assist (BA).
Additional standard equipment includes HomeLink Universal Transceiver, cruise control, aluminum pedals, illuminated steering wheel audio controls and auto-dimming rearview mirror, power windows, 3-bay gauge cluster, High Intensity Discharge (HID) bi-xenon (high and low beam) headlights, LED taillights, Advanced Air Bag System, side and curtain side-impact supplemental air bags and Active Head Restraints.
“The NISMO 350Z is designed for enthusiasts who want a Z that makes a statement and is a testament to their love of driving,” said Bosley. “It has the appearance that stands out from the crowd and the performance to back it up.”
In addition to the new NISMO 350Z, the 2007 350Z Coupe is offered in Base, Enthusiast, Touring and Grand Touring models.The 2007 350Z Roadster is offered in three models – Enthusiast, Touring and Grand Touring.
# # #
Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan Announces Pricing on 2007 NISMO 350Z [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2007-nismo-350z [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:44:19 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:44:19 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1277 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Nissan Project Zed: 0-60mph in 1.2 seconds! Sunday, August 30, 2009 Posted by: nissangirl74 A very special Nissan Z-Car is ready to rumble at Santa Pod! Built to break multiple European records, the hand built dragster will be the only Japanese engined car competing against more traditional American V8 machinery in Mainstream drag racing this year. The lovingly prepared Project Zed is powered by a Nissan 350Z 3.5-litre V6 engine producing nearly 1,900bhp. Owner and driver John Bradshaw is thrilled to be taking his mighty machine to the famous Santa Pod Raceway, Northants. John comments: “It’s incredible to finally have the car ready to test now and we are all very excited by its potential. It really is a car that is capable of setting records around the world and just shows what a Nissan engine is capable of producing.” Project Zed is the first ever Pro Class 350Z to be seen in Europe and has been eagerly awaited by drag fans all over Europe. It’s no surprise to find that predicted acceleration times are breathtaking. Not only is 0-60mph expected to take only 1.2 seconds, but 0-168mph will arrive in just 4.1 seconds. The team are no strangers to success having set the fastest quarter mile time in the world for a Nissan Skyline (7.68 seconds @ 177mph) with their other car, Project GTST, which is a 1997 Nissan Skyline RWD GTST. Producing over 1,150bhp at the wheels, the car holds the record for the fastest Japanese car in Europe for 2008 and retains that title to date in 2009. Performance figures for Project Zed are expected as follows: * 0-60 mph – 1.2 second * 0-168 mph – 4.1 seconds * 0-215+ mph – 6.6 seconds [post_title] => Nissan Project Zed [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissanprojectzed [to_ping] => [pinged] => http://www.inautonews.com/nissan-project-zed-0-60mph-in-12-seconds http://www.inautonews.com/nissan-project-zed-0-60mph-in-12-seconds [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 22:14:39 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 05:14:39 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1283 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => NISSAN TO TEST REAL-TIME "SLIP-HAZARD WARNING SYSTEM" Wednesday, October 3, 2007 Posted by: Matt TOKYO (October 1, 2007)-- Nissan Motor Co., Ltd. today announced that it will test its "slip-hazard warning system" in Hokkaido, Northern Japan, to help mitigate accidents on slippery roads experienced in cold weather conditions. The advanced intelligent-system combines data from its ITS*1 (Intelligent Transport System) and in-vehicle ABS (anti-lock braking system) to issue real-time voice alerts as the vehicle approaches a slippery point in the road. The Hokkaido test is part of the ITS project piloted in Kanagawa Prefecture since October 2006, involving customers' vehicle participation*2, to help reduce traffic accidents and congestion. The extension of the project in Hokkaido is intended to evaluate the tolerances in the system under real-world driving conditions. Around Sapporo city, Nissan is expecting about 100 vehicles, which are equipped with the Carwings navigation system to provide the necessary real-world driving sample data for this project. The customer selection will begin in October 2007, and the test phase will be conducted from November 2007 to March 2008, in cooperation with the Hokkaido Prefectural Police. Nissan hopes to examine the accuracy, effectiveness and feasibility of the system utilizing various probe data, for future commercial application. In addition to the "slip-hazard warning system", the newly-improved Carwings system offers a full range of information for the customer such as traffic information and route navigation. * The latest slippery points Real-time map of slippery points relative to current vehicle position based on data received via its Carwings communications system and probe information*3 i.e. activation of ABS operation indicating slippery conditions. * Statistical data based on historical records of the slippery points. * Location of reported skid accidents from past years. Location of skid accidents in the most recent year. Image of navigation display *1: The Intelligent Transport System is an advanced information system that connects people, vehicles and traffic infrastructure that can contribute to help improve road safety. *2: The ITS Project in Kanagawa prefecture is a collaboration between Nissan, NTT DoCoMo Inc., Matsushita Electric Industrial Co., and Xanavi Infomatics Corp. NTT DoCoMo Hokkaido Inc. is also involved in the test in Hokkaido. *3: Vehicle location, speed and other information via cellular communications. Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan Tests Slip-Hazard Warning System [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-tests-slip-hazard-warning-system [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:01:26 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:01:26 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1284 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN RENAULT AND EDF OBJECTIVE: ZERO EMISSIONS
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Posted by: Matt
Paris, October 9 2008 - Renault and French electric utility EDF today signed a memorandum of understanding to create, starting with France, a large scale zero-emissions individual transport and travel system. The objective is to establish electric cars as a viable and attractive transport solution for consumers. The partnership was officially launched today by Carlos Ghosn, President and CEO of Renault and Nissan, and Pierre Gadonneix, Chairman and CEO of EDF.
The Renault Nissan Alliance aims to become the world's leading manufacturer of zero-emission vehicles. France will be one of the first global markets to receive these all-electric models, along with Israel, Denmark, Portugal, the state of Tennessee (USA), and Kanagawa Prefecture (Japan), all of which have announced similar partnerships with the Renault Nissan Alliance.
EDF, owner of the world's biggest fleet of electric vehicles, has considerable experience and expertise in electric power storage technologies and recharging infrastructures, and in operating fleets of rechargeable vehicles. EDF is committed to expanding the availability of clean mobility solutions.
Through the agreement signed today, the Renault Nissan Alliance and EDF aim to provide consumers access to zero emission mobility from 2011. In support of this objective, the Renault Nissan Alliance and EDF will jointly develop an innovative commercial project, open to other interested parties, leading to the set up of an Electric Mobility Operator in the longer term. The role of the Electric Mobility Operator will be to supply customers with the infrastructure to recharge an electric vehicle and to manage its range.
Between now and January 2010, the partners will study engineering requirements, national and European regulations and all necessary technical and financial procedures, including the identification of new partners, to ensure that the infrastructure is ready for a vehicle launch in 2011.
Carlos Ghosn, President and CEO of Renault and President and CEO of Nissan, said, "To reconcile the demand for individual mobility with the preservation of the environment and high cost of oil, the Renault Nissan Alliance is committed to the development of "zero-emission" vehicles. Thanks to our partnership with EDF, in 2011 we will be able to provide our customers in France with high-performance and affordable electric vehicles."
Pierre Gadonneix, Chairman and CEO of EDF, said, "This technological and industrial partnership paves the way for innovation that will promote the emergence of new-generation vehicles that are clean, competitive and ecologically virtuous. The aim is to reconcile the challenges of individual mobility and economic growth with efforts to combat global warming. This is the commitment made by EDF, which ranks among the energy companies with the lowest CO2 emissions in Europe."
The Renault Group generated global revenues of €40,682 million in 2007. It designs, engineers, manufactures and sells passenger and light commercial vehicles throughout the world. The Renault Group is present in 118 countries and sells vehicles under its three brands - Renault, Dacia and Samsung. The Renault Group employs 129,000 people worldwide.
The Nissan Motor Company generated global net revenues of 10.824 trillion yen in 2007. Nissan is present in all major global auto markets selling a comprehensive range of cars, pickup trucks, SUVs and light commercial vehicles under the Nissan and Infiniti brands. Nissan employs over 220,000 people worldwide.
The Renault Nissan Alliance
The Renault Nissan Alliance, founded in 1999, sold 6,160,046 vehicles in 2007. The objective of the Alliance is to rank among the world's top three vehicle manufacturers in terms of quality, technology and profitability.
The EDF Group ranks among the leaders in Europe's energy market. It is an integrated energy company with presence in a wide range of businesses: generation, transmission, distribution, supply and energy trading. EDF is Europe's biggest electricity producer. In France, the Group uses mainly nuclear and hydroelectric generation resources, for an electricity supply that is 95% CO2-free. EDF's transmission and distribution subsidiaries operate 1,246,000 km of medium- and low-voltage overhead and underground power lines and around 100,000 km of high- and very-high voltage networks. The Group is involved in supplying energy and services to more than 38 million customers worldwide, including more than 28 million in France. In 2007, the EDF Group reported consolidated sales of €59.6 billion, of which 44% in Europe excluding France. EDF is listed on the Paris stock exchange and is a member of the CAC 40 index.
Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan commits to development of zero-emission vehicles [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-zero-emission [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:01:48 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:01:48 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1311 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: Anonymous
Basically, this is a solution to the dreaded CEL that many of us get from switching to testpipes. The idea is to place a gap between the pipe and the sensor to reduce the amount of exhaust gases that the sensor will see/detect. This is becoming a very popular mod over since it is NON-PERMANENT, and it does not require modification to the O2 sensor harness. Normally, I would throw a CEL about every 85 miles, so far this mod has been worthwhile.
1) Help! Part # 42002 and/or 42009 by Motormite, these are known as sparkplug-arresters, which should be available at any generic auto supply store (e.g. Pepboys, Autozone, etc.). Should run about $5 per package.
- means to lift/secure vehicle
- 10 mm socket or wrench
- 7/8” wrench for O2 sensor (or 22 mm)
- drill and 1/2” drill bit (read below)
- Dremel tool and various bits
- zip ties & dykes
1) Jack up car and secure with jack stands.
2) Remove 2 plastic nuts and shield covering the O2 sensor/harness junction (10mm), this will make the R&R of the rear O2 much easier.
3) Remove the rear O2 sensor, which is the one downstream of the cat.
4) Modify the sparkplug-arrester(s).First I drilled out the arrester using the 1/2” drill bit, then I used various drill bits and the Dremel to shave the rest until the sensor would fit. If you have the means to measure the sensor and get the appropriate drill bit, that would be highly recommended.
5) Install arrester(s) into downpipe & replace O2 sensor.
There are several combinations for the fix. The 42002 is a tapered-mount and the 42009 is a flat-mount with a crush washer. The 42002 (tapered) is notably longer in length than the 42009 (flat).
I elected to start off with the 42002 (tapered) only, which is the longer of the two, this worked out fine for 120 miles. Next, I placed a non-drilled 42009 (flat) in front of the 42002, so far no problems.
6) Replace 2 plastic nuts and shield covering the O2 sensor/harness junction.
7) Secure harnesses with zip ties.
8) Clear DTC’s/Reset ECU.
[post_title] => 350Z Check Engine Light With High-Flow Cats? [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-high-flow-cats [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:22:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:22:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1319 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Calculating Injector Size and Metric Conversions You will need access to a dyno to properly do this. Step 1: Determine the horsepower of your engine. To determine the horsepower your engine is producing at the crank, you should have your vehicle dyno tested. Step 2: Determine your approximate BSFC or Brake Specific Fuel Consumption. BSFC is the amount of fuel used per unit of horsepower made by your engine. Again, you can determine this from dyno testing. Step 3: Determine your injector's safe duty cycle. The injector duty cycle is the percentage of time that the fuel injector is open vs. the total time between firing. For most OEM cars it's .8, but if you're on this forum it's safe to assume for this purpose that your SDC is actually .85, as this is pretty standard for most modified and racing cars. If you're upgrading your injectors to a higher flow rate, then it's safe to assume that .85 is your number!!!!! SDC=.85 Step 4: Calculating the injector size. Okay, so now you have the numbers you need. You've done the dyno time, and you have your crank-hp, your aprox. BSFC, and your injector SDC. What now? Now you can use this information to calculate the correct size by using this formula: injector size in lbs./hr.= (max. hp X BSFC) divided by (number of injectors X SDC) So, if you have a modified Sentra, putting out 150 hp, then the equation might look like this: (150 X .45) divided by ( 4 X .8 ) = 21.1 lb./hr. So, what the hell do you do with lbs./hr.??? I mean, everyone else in the world has the sense to use the metric system... but your Nascar fan parts guy at the local Napa doesn't understand the simplicity of the universal metric system... so he only knows lbs./hr.... well, that's easy. Use this formula to calculate: To convert pounds per hour to cc's per minute (like normal people would): cc/min = (lbs./hr. X 60) divided by 6.177 so, using the example above, that would be: (21.1 lbs./hr. X 60) divided by 6.177 = 204.9 cc/min. [post_title] => How to calculate injector size [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => calculating-injector-size [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:03:18 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:03:18 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1321 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Twin-turbo for your 350Z or G35...
Now, some background...as many of us Z owners striving to seek more and more power out of our stock engine, I decided to buy a GReddy TT kit. Had it professionally installed and about a month later...catatrophic engine damage. I broke connecting rod #2 and subsequently it put two windows in my block.
So, I decided do it right and do a forged internal build up and I am only days away from finally have it done. But this thread is not about MY build up, its about YOUR build up. I have put together a good plan on how to go about an engine build up AND forced induction to your Z.
First, the price of admission. For those of you that would like to go venture in the land of boost, the price of admission is a steep one....but well worth the cost!!!
If I had to do it all over....to minimize the time your Z is in the shop and to minimize the TOTAL labor costsand not risking blowing an engine...
Buy the following in this order...
1. A short block, this is basically just an engine w/o heads and a crank. See item 1. Since the block is brand new, you don't have to worry about buying a used short block and how it became a used short block. Believe or not, the small block will cost only about 1300. I say only, because this will become your build up engine. From here, you can sleeve it with AEBS only if you plan to exceed 600rwhp. Once you're reaching these power levels, you are in uncharted terroritory that less than a handful have ventured into. This of course will be inherently risky to venture where no one else has any experience.
2. Next, you buy a crankshaft. item27. This will cost you about 550. Now, that you have a block and crank, you can get the bearing codes for the rods and mains and...
3. Buy the 12 rod bearings item 25 (there sold in halves) and order the 4 main bearings. This will only set you back about 200. You got off easy in this step. But there's more...
4. Now, pistons and rods. You shouldn't spend more than 2k here if you shop around. My suggestion would be to stay less than 9.5:1 compression ratio. In the simplest terms here...the lower the compression ratio, the higher psi you can run. The trade off, there would be a little more of a delay in reaching your peak hp in your power band. But, you will be less likely to run into detonation issues. Personally, I wanted 9:1, but ended up with 8.6:1 due to supply issues of pistons.
5. Okay, now you have a short block, crank, rods, bearings, and pistons. But a couple more internal parts to buy, ARP head studs and main studs. These should run you about 450 for the studs. There are 16 head studs and 16 main studs.
Now, you have reached a point where you can ship these parts to a reputable builder and they can build your engine. Make sure this shop has built one before and their machine shop has worked on a VQ-35DE. THIS IS CRUICIAL.
Now they can double check the clearances of your bearings and you have a "built" bottom end engine. One more thing to possibly consider in this step is to get a thermo coat on your pistons and bearings. There is debate on the longevity of the coat, but it doesn't cost too much though. Whats another few hundred bucks.
6. Okay, now this is the step, not step 1, is when you buy your favorite TT or single Turbo or Super charger that you have been having dirty fantasies about when no one is looking. Depending on the brand, each will have something or another you must buy separately. If you've made it this far, you would have researched the shortcomings of your particuler kit. At this point you should consider thermo coating your turbo exhaust manifolds and exhaust turbine. This will allow you to keep engine temps down and keep the hot gases inside hot.
7. Now, you are in a really good position to start your build. But, a few more things to buy...of course. There's always something else to buy! But, the good news is that the remainder of the stuff is usually kept in stock.
Gauges....300-1200 (depending on number and type, + install)
Clutch....1k-2k (depending on brand, and you might as well do it while the engine is out)
Fuel sys upgrade...1k (or it you get APS, its in the price tag already)
Larger fuel injectors...500
Thermal coating.....300 This could be on pistons, bearings, or turbo "hot" parts
8. Once you get back your "built" engine, which would probably take 6-8 weeks if you're lucky. You can now drop off your Z at a good and reputable shop, and they can swap out the engines and install your TT at the same time. MAKE SURE YOU GET A GOOD ESTIMATE OF ALL COSTS INVOLVED AND GET IT IN WRITING ALONG WITH A COMPLETION DATE!!! Okay, enough with the yelling, lets continue. From here, this should take less than a month. So, your Z sat in a shop for less than a month and you have a built engine with TT. AND you were able to minimize downtime, costs, and you even spread out the costs of buying parts and the TT.
9. What do you do with your original short block? No, it does not become a new table in your nook by your kitchen!!! You will be able to sell it to the next guy. And he can still follow the plan I just laid out.
10. So, you read this part and now you are thinking I'm nuts or maybe the price of admission is very high. Well, you're right on both accounts. No, but seriously, this is the best way to go about it especially if....
a. You don't want to have your Z in a shop for 2-3 MONTHS
b. Your Z is a daily driver
c. Dont think you can take a short cut and just do TTs on stock internals. Come on now, that engine puts down 235rwhp and not designed to handle 350+rwhp!
d. You can't wait to read my kill stories again. Sorry, got off topic.
Now for the short list, yes it does exists. If you don't want to listen to the advice above, at least buy these at the bare minimum:
ARP Main studs/Head studs
Overhaul Gasket Kit
Rear Main Oil Seal
NGK one step colder plugs
Oil Press gauge
And the following depending on boost levels:
AAM Fuel Return System
Bigger fuel injectors
Okay, you survived reading my post. I hope I have taught you a couple of things along the way and as always I more than welcome questions, comments, corrections, and money. J/K. We are all here to learn about those wonderful little money pits we call "Our Zs". [post_title] => 350Z / G35 Twin turbo installation guide [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-g35-twin-turbo-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:22:24 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:22:24 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1322 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Before Modifying your Z By: Jeff Wisener (Posted with the authors full knowledge and permission.) So you want to modify your 350Z?Read this first! 1. Define your goal. Are you simply trying to make your car look nicer, building it for street racing, drag racing, autoX, track, or a show car. Maybe it is a combination of more than just one of these, if so, be sure which one is more important because they may conflict each other. 2. Set your budget. You could easily spend in excess of $25, 000 on mods if you went with upgraded suspension, wheels and tires, and a Twin Turbo alone. Someone recently asked himself why he was spending so much money on modifying his 350Z when he could have purchase a Z06 Vette that will out perform his Z and the Vette would still have the factory warranty. Know what you want to achieve and how much you are willing to spend before beginning to modify your car. 3. Determine if you are willing to void your warranty from Nissan. Many suspension mods void anything related to suspension so if you spend $2000 on coilover suspension, be ready to accept that Nissan will not fix your tire feathering problems found on many 350Z after 5000 miles with anything but stock or NISMO S suspension. 4. Determine how much of a risk taker you are. A lot of people would love to have 500hp but how concerned are you about reliability. Your car has been designed stock to provide good performance with reliability. Nissan told their engineers to design the 350Z motor to last 200,000 miles. As a general rule, the more hp, the less reliability although some would argue that fact. 5. How long will you keep your 350Z? In many cases, most modifications do not bring higher resale and in many situations depreciate the cars value. I have already seen several nice 350Z’s with modifications of over $10,000 and then be sold off for parts bringing penny’s on a dollar due to people selling their 350Z months after modifying it. Ask yourself how long you plan to keep a 2 seater sports car. For most young couples, when the baby comes, the 350Z goes. Once you have considered items 1-5 above, now you are ready to begin modifying your car. The list I will make below is just a simple overview of each category. You should read up on each area using the search option and get a lot of good advice in many threads. There are many experienced members on line that have specific expertise in areas such as stereo or wheels and tires. Use their knowledge and leave your ego off line. All of us can learn from someone else. If you need my opinion on something, feel free to pm me and I will do what I can to help you. I suggest you begin modifying your Z in the following order: 1. Protecting your paint job: In case you did not know, the 350Z is known for paint chipping in the front bumper. It will happen within the first 1-2000 miles and I doubt you will get it covered under warranty. I strongly suggest you think about protecting your paint. I do not personally like black bras on the front. I like the clear bra type product which provides a clear film of protection to prevent chipping, just like provided in front of your rear wheel well by Nissan from the factory but this is a thinner material. There are different brands of course and I picked one and I am happy with it. Maybe you will pick another product and find it is excellent as well? My only suggestion is get it from a certified installer of this type of product. That does not mean a window tint installer. Just because you can tint windows does not mean you can apply a clear bra. 2. Tinting windows. Do a search on find out what percentage of tinting is legal in your state. This is another cheap modification that can be done right away. 3. Tires and wheels: This is a great place to start doing the bigger type of modifications. It will enhance the appearance and performance of your car and for the most part will not negatively affect reliability. If you are adding a body kit to your car, it would be wise to decide which one and how if any this affects your wheel and tire selection. You don’t need to know as much about wheels and tires to select them (as compared to designing a twin turbo for your car) although there are many issues to consider but even if you make a choice based on personal taste, you wont blow up your motor! Wheels: If you are most interested in looks, 19” might be your best bet. Just remember the 2 negatives of 19” tires. Negative #1 is you will run a very low profile tire thus more likely to bend a wheel (and ride a little rougher). Negative #2: weight of wheel is greater and for every 6lbs you add to a wheel/tire, you lose 1 hp. If you want a combination of looks and performance, then 18" wheels might be a wise choice. You get a slightly lighter wheel thus a little more hp but it does not have as aggressive of a look as the 19” wheels. If you want the maximum performance then 17” wheels put the most hp to the ground. For those that want optimal appearance for the street and optimal track performance go with 19” street wheels and tires and separate 17” track wheels and tires. Again, what is your goal and budget? Tires: The most common tire size upgrade is to a 245 ft tire and 275 rears. Notice the rears are larger than the front to maintain the understeer/oversteer issue. Your stock wheels will not accommodate this big of a tire thus read up on what size wheel works for the tires you want to put on your car. I strongly suggest you use this website http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html This site will tell you how much difference there is between your stock tire and tire you desire. If you increase or decrease your tire size over 3% of stock size (in outsize rolling diameter) it will affect your ABS braking system and VDC. Simply put, your car will sense the back wheels are rotating too quickly for example and the ECU will think you are spinning your tires/losing traction which will possibly cause your car to brake or cut off the throttle. I recommend you keep the margin within 1.5%. I went with larger tires, 265 fronts and 295 rears. This is not as wise a choice for performance if you plan on maintaining the stock motor however if you plan on adding at least 100 hp, it might be something to consider. You need to be careful going with this large a tire combination. Your wheel offset must be just right or your tires will rub against the fenders. Mine don’t but I did my homework. 4. Suspension: Now that you got your wheels and tires, you might think that gap between your fender and wheel is too big! In addition, most of these suspension upgrades tend to get rid of that annoying freeway hop found on stock 350Z’s. For many, the biggest added bonus is improved handling. If handling is important to you, add stiffer sway bars while you are adding suspension. Again just as with Wheels and tires, suspension options are on the market now so why not start here before adding hp. Here are your options: Springs: Companies like Eibach and B&G have springs that will lower your car and make it look great. Costs on these springs are about $200-$250. There are strings attached. Eibachs lower your car 1.2” in the rear and .8” in the front and remember, anything over .8” drop will make your camber impossible to be within factory camber specifications. You can drive it with springs only and lose up to 20% tire life (inside edge of tire will wear out first) or get camber kits. These kits will cost you in excess of $400 for just rears or fronts. If you add these camber kits to the cost of the springs, this option is not as cheap as you might first think. Another negative of lowering beyond .8” is going over speed bumps and bottoming out. This option is good for those whose priority is looks. Make sure to get a 4 wheel alignment after installing springs. Spring/shock combo: Right now, the number one option in this group is NISMO S suspension. Cost about $1300-$1800 depending on the vendor and most will ship them to you. The suspension lowers the Z about .8” thus no camber issues, no need to get alignment after install either. This gets rid of fwy bounce as well. NISMO maintains factory warranty and handles very well on street as well as track. The negative of this option compared to Coil-over springs is lack of adjustment in height, ride hardness, etc. Coilovers: Cost varies from about $1600 to over $2000. You can control ht and ride. Teins even have a feature called EDFC which allows you to adjust ride hardness within the car as you are driving. You can preset it to 3 levels too such as casual driving, aggressive street, and track. JIC’s seem to be the choice of those with track being their number one priority but remember it is stiff so if you don’t want to feel the road, consider something else besides JIC’s. These are just two options, every month new coil-overs are being introduced to the market. Maybe SportZ magazine will have a shoot out on different suspension systems later like they did on exhausts and it might make the choice of selecting a suspension system an easier task then it is right now. 5. Stereo: The stock stereo is weak, many are not happy with the Bose as well. Many good options on stereos are available right now so you can’t go wrong. This might be your first choice to modify your car. After all, what is better than listening to good tunes in your new Z? There too many speakers, amps, and head units to list and compare in a brief overview. Again, read up on the options you have, and ask questions. Many people have upgraded their stereo already including me and would be more than willing to advise you. I had a sub woofer enclosure made that I feel is one of the best modifications I have done to date. Again, do your homework to get the desired effect. 6. Brakes: Before adding a lot of hp, you might want to consider being able to stop your car better. Both the stock brakes and the brembo's found on the Track model are excellent brakes. If all you are planning on doing is driving on the street and braking hard only during emergencies, than your stock brakes are as good as you need. With that being said, then why should you consider upgrading your brakes? Two reasons; the most important being if you do repeated hard braking on mountain roads or on a track, you might experience brake fade which simply means that as the brakes heat up, they take longer to stop. The more they heat up, the less they stop. The best way to determine if you need brakes upgraded is to track it. I drove my Z at the track for 30 minutes on, 30 minutes off all day long. Even after that, it took all day for them to begin to fade. In other words, who might need better brakes but unless you brake hard frequently, you most likely don’t. Another reason to upgrade brakes has nothing to do with stopping, it is for looks. Many of the people that upgrade to 15” brake kits are doing so for looks. As I stated before, 17” wheels are optimal for tracking your car. 17” wheels can only accommodate 13” rotors thus adding 14” or 15” brake kits force you to track your Z with less than optimal tires and wheels. 13” rotors on most after market brake kits will meet all your stopping needs on the street and track. If you are never going to run 17” wheels, knock yourself out and get those bigger kits if you like, they look awesome. Brembo, Stoptech, AP, and others all have kits starting at about $1700 for front brakes. You can get a 4 wheel brake set but the front brakes are the most critical. You might want to consider changing your brake lines and fluid as a cheaper alternative than an entire brake kit. 7. Drive train/Engine modifications: I listed this category towards the end for good reason. The first reason you should be getting use to your car in stock form and learning its limits before adding hp. I felt I need to add hp to my Z the very first day I drove it off the dealer lot. Not until I took it to a track did I realize the full capabilities of my 350Z. I found that while I was driving it, the main performance modification needed to be modified was me, being the driver learning how to drive it to its full potential. Honestly, if you care anything about performance, you should take your Z to the track. No matter how aggressive you drive on the street, driving it on a track allows you to push it much harder and in a safe environment. Besides that, it is a blast to do. There are new options in this group being released almost daily. Just in this month alone (November 2003), the Vortec SC is being released; the Greddy TT is now taking new orders. Several other SC and TT kits are scheduled to be released within 1-2 months. Waiting a little bit to add other modifications is not a bad idea. Let’s go over the options: NOS: Do you want cheap HP and your desire is to beat that Mustang next to you? NOS is an option you should consider. Some people dislike it but no one can disagree that it adds hp for short bursts and does it cheaply. NA: Some people think real engines are Naturally Aspired (NA). For those people, NOS is just flat cheating and SC and TT cars are better but have limitations. Every one of these options has pros and cons or there would only be one option. Here are the pros/cons of NA: SC and TT may have a tendency to run hotter. There is a question of reliability when you FI a motor. The 350Z VQ motor was designed as a high compression motor yet FI motors run optimally as low compression. With a NA motor, you do not have the “turbo lag” often found on TT. This turbo lag can be an enemy on the track. Most people that decide to add hp by NA often state it as being more dependable and predictable on a track. The negative is cost. Expect to spend approximately $5000 to add 50-60 hp. In addition, as soon you you add cams, your motor warranty is void, even if it is a NISMO cam because the NISMO cams are type R which is for racing thus no warranty as compared to type S which are for street and maintain the factory warranty. Typical NA mods include exhaust and headers, cams, pulleys, air intakes, and plenum. Remember, don’t add a plenum and then decide to get a Dream Workes or Stillen supercharger because you will simply be taking off the plenum you just purchased. You got to make up your mind if you are going NA, SC, or TT before you begin modifying your motor unless you like wasting money. Superchargers: There are two types of FI, Superchargers (SC) and turbos which are most often twin turbos (TT) on 350Z’s. A lot of debate is covered on various threads concerning advantages and disadvantages of SC vs. TT. Some people tend to be very pro – supercharger and others are pro TT. I will try to be as objective as possible but I am sure my opinion will differ from others. Supercharger kits typically run about $4800-$6000 + installation takes anywhere from 8-20 hours labor depending on the kit thus figure at least another $1000 in labor to install. All of the kits either come with an intercooler (IC) or can be added as an option to the base kit. I strongly suggest you get the IC since it keeps the motor running cooler and cooling is a major issue for any FI motor. The two most common types of SC used on the Z are the centrifugal SC and the Root type SC. The ATI Procharger and Vortec SC are the most popular centrifugal SC available currently. Both of these kits put out approximately 350-370 rear wheel hp (RWHP) at 7 psi of boost. Adding the approximate 17% loss from the crank to the wheels, that would equal about 409 to 432 rwhp. This is a significant jump over the 287 crank hp (approximately 230-245 rwhp found on a stock 350Z). Both of these kits void the engine warranty by Nissan unless you can find a dealer that will sell you them installed on the car when it is new. The significant difference between the centrifugal SC and the root is the centrifugal SC does not have full boost until you reach higher rpm’s. To be simplistic, a centrifugal SC has 1 psi of boost per 1000rpm being the peak boost is 7 psi. Boost increases hp thus a centrifugal SC really kicks in when it is above 4500 rpm since it is then approaching full boost/ peak hp. The other type of SC is the root. The only current root SC available is made by Stillen. Dream Workes (DW) is scheduled to release a root type SC in January of 2004. The root blower is position on top of the motor as compared to the centrifugal SC that is located off to the side of the motor. The Stillen SC sets so high on top of the motor that to install it, the strut brace has to be removed reducing handling and the hood has to be cut out and a scoop added or an entire hood has to be installed. The soon to be released DW SC is designed to use the stock hood and maintain the strut. Both of these root type SC have full boost at low to high rpm thus more low end grunt. These SC kits tend to put out less peak hp by approximately 20-30hp but advocates of the root type blower will say that the root SC provides you with more power where you need it rather than a little more hp right before you shift. The Stillen SC will provide you with an engine warranty if you do not boost it over 5.5 psi but then you will be putting out approximately the same hp as a built NA motor. DW plans on offering their SC with 400 crank hp (approximately 330 rwhp) with a full drive train warranty and be the first to offer CARB legal installation which means that owners in California can pass smog with their SC Z’s. In addition, they plan on having upgrades to further increase hp but the warranty will be voided. Stillen has just released an IC for their Sc kit which creates more hp. the warranty would be void with this set up so it comes down to hp vs risk level. that is a choice you must make based on your needs and comfort level. With all of these FI kits, tuning and boost seem to be critical issues related to reliability. I cannot stress enough that you should get an experienced tuner to install these kits. Before doing that, you should read hours and hours of posts and anything else you can get your hands on before selecting a kit and an installer. Do your research and ask a lot of questions before you decide on a kit. If you raise the boost, most of these SC kits have the capability to exceed 500hp. The other side of the coin is if you raise the boost, are you keeping within the specifications of the kit your purchased? Even adding a simple addtional modification might cause problems with a FI kit. Be sure to talk in detail to the manufacture and installer before doing anything. Something you might think is ok to do might not be ok and cost you thousands of dollars to repair. As with turbos, I strong suggest that if you exceed 7psi of boost, you consider modifying your pistons, rods etc to maintain durability. Twin Turbos: for the person that wishes to build the ultimate hp capable in the VQ, the TT is their most likely choice. Boost can be modified on a SC by changing the pulley but it is simpler and quicker in the TT. You simply dial it in sitting in the driver seat. The two most commonly discussed TT kits currently are the Greddy TT and Power Enterprise TT (PE). Both of these kits cost approximately $7-8000 and then installation needs to be added to that cost. The TT has the potential to exceed 800hp. Before you dream of just turning up the boost to get those numbers, strongly consider building the internal portion of your motor to accommodate that power output. You better know what you are doing if you are putting out this much hp. An improperly tuned motor putting out this much hp is a time bomb waiting to explode. Since all of these SC and TT kits have either been just out a couple of months or not even out yet, the reliability of these kits are not proven to MY personal satisfaction. Large debates over how much boost can be given to each kit goes on daily. To be blunt, everyone has their opinion but the fact is no one knows what is a safe level of boost yet. Motors will be blown up defining those limits. Some argue the VQ is extremely limited in the amount of boost it can take, others feel it is a question of proper tuning and once tuners get a better handle on the ECU (car computer) and can control the fuel management, they will be able to safely increase boost to higher levels. Because of the introduction of new kits monthly and the issues of safe boost and tuning, I again caution you to modify your wheels, tires, stereo, and suspension first until these issues are resolved. If you know more than me and feel comfortable doing it now, then that is fine as long as you know enough to make an educated choice with your money. A lot of people will tell you to go for it, that is easy to do when it is you taking the risk with your money. In my opinion, if you want only 400 – 435 crank hp and you are on a budget, the SC kit might be a wise choice. If you are desiring the ability to exceed 500hp with unlimited options in tuning, the TT kit may be a better choice for you assuming you can afford it. 8. ECU: Several companies are working on improving the ECU. It is set from Nissan at safe levels for availability of gas (91 octane or higher) and different climates and altitudes. Nissan sets the ECU to safe limits for all of its owner’s not maximum hp output for car enthusiasts like many of us on this site. People that modify their cars for maximum hp tend to want to push those margins of safety closer to the limits of what are considered safe for most consumers. You can expect modest hp gains from an ECU being reprogrammed on a stock Z. An ECU preprogrammed for a FI or built NA motor will most likely result in higher hp gains than stock. Companies such as Techno Square (TS) are currently reprogramming ECU’s now. I am sure other companies will enter this market soon. 9. Other drive train modifications: After adding 100hp by FI to your motor, you will most likely be forced to replace the clutch to be able to accommodate that power. In addition, some like a lighter flywheel instead of stock. The bottom line is your 350Z was designed to accommodate 287 crank hp. The more hp you add, the greater strain you are adding to your entire drive train. The fact is, the weakest link breaks thus if you are putting out additional 100 hp and rev your motor to 3000rpm and drop the clutch, something might break since it was not designed to handle that power. I hope this helps you. I tried to be specific enough to give you a basic idea of options you have in modifying your 350Z. Of course, I did not get too specific assuming you need to do some research on your own. I know there are many experienced individuals that have more experience in modifying cars on this website than myself. They can add suggestions to this post and even disagree if they like with portions of what I have written. The intent was to provide a new 350Z owner with a basic understanding of what can be done to modify their 350Z with the hope of doing so without regret in their decisions. This thread was not written to debate with experienced 350Z owners over fine details of modifications. The best answer I have read regarding why you should modify your 350Z is because you are enjoying doing so. There will always be a faster car than a 350Z be it a M3, Vette, Viper, or a number of supercars on the market. I always wanted a 300TT Z but could not afford it at the time. Now, I can afford a Z so I am doing what I dreamed of doing years ago. Z06 Vettes and 911TT are awesome but that is not my dream. Maybe the cost of those cars new is just more than I want to expend? If I can build a 350Z and it performs close to the performance of those cars, I will be happy. The more I modify my Z, the more it reflects my personality and tastes. Some guys like blonds, others redheads. I guess some guys are muscle car types and me, I am a Z type guy. It is all personal taste. That is why some of us have CS, SS, while others have brickyards. Is one better than the other? To me no, but one is better for someones personal taste. I have been recently been hired by SportZ magazine (months after I first posted this thread). With this new postion come the opportunity to provide articles that will give Z owners another source for information in selecting aftermarket products through comparing products in tests that measure their performance. I am sure these comparisions will not show clear "winners" all the time since selecting a product must be defined by what you personallly want it to do. When selecting an exhaust, are you looking for sound quality, hp gains, torque gains, warranty, or appearance? If warranty is your top objective, a certain exhaust might be the winner in your opinion as compared to hp gain or even weight of the exhaust. The brief overview I gave on this thread cannot replace your own research. If I am able, I will do my best to influence SportZ magazine to create more comparsions much like the exhaust shoot out they wrote. Good luck and enjoy your 350Z be it stock or modded. [post_title] => Everything you need to know before you modify your 350Z [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-performance [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:58:19 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:58:19 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1334 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Installing Z32 brakes onto your Q45 By: Wes Stinson Here's my parts list. 4 Brembo blanks (brand new) Z32 30mm calipers OEM pads 1 big and 1 small bottle of Valvoline synpower brake fluid Caliper grease Braided SS Z32 240 conversion lines OR You can use the factory lines*(SEE NOTE AT END) Speed bleeders Started with the rear, and everything went smoothly... The hard line fittings are on tight so use an impact wrench if you have it... The rear conversion lines are the same as the Q45 lines except with a shorter banjo bolt... They use a banjo fitting but the seat of the bolt has the inverted flare... An important step here is the bolts are just ever so slightly too long and mine leaked. That said, if you use 3 copper washers (one on the bolt head side, and 2 on the caliper side) the bolt won't bottom out and leak. Remember to orient so that the bleeder is on the TOP... There's no difference left to right except where the bleeder is.!!! That being said, there's really nothing special about the rear brakes, everything went right on. Be sure to use plenty of grease. Grease everything, wherever the pad contacts something. Now on to the fronts. This is where a little bit of skill is required. Some people suggested removing that heat shield, but i didn't see an easy way to do that. I decided to just cut mine. You'll see where it sort of curves around and there's a little tab. I just cut that so it was flat and it worked perfect, with plenty of clearance on both sides. Put a jack under each control arm to simulate the suspension being laden to help align the fitting. Overall, this was definitely a good mod to do if you have 17 in wheels or more (for clearance). I did the math, and doing this upgrade will cost about as much (slightly less) as rehabbing your Q45 brakes, and after that, will be substantially cheaper as the brembo blanks are about 1/2 price of what OEM rotors are. With the double thickness in the rear and 2mm extra in the front that has to make things last longer. These are the brakes that should have been on the car, and had it not been for wheel clearance issues, I think Nissan would have used these to begin with! **NOTE: If you want to use the factory lines, simply remove the bolt from the banjo fitting and cut it down a few threads..In retrospect, I probably would have gone this route rather than the SS lines, due to fitment issues...** [post_title] => Z32 Brake Upgrade Installation on a Q45 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => z32-brake-upgrade-installation-on-a-q45 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:39:09 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:39:09 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1350 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Clearing Codes on the G35 and 350Z There are several ways to clear ECU error codes. - Scan Tool If using a scan tool, follow tool manufacturer’s instructions to clear Codes. - Manual Method Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" Light. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds. Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds: Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). Fully release the accelerator pedal. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) Wait about 10 seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. - With Consult Turn ignition Off. Connect Consult’the data link connector (DLC), located behind fuse box cover. Turn ignition On. Touch Start. Touch Engine. Perform each diagnostic test mode according to each service procedure. - Without Consult Turn ignition On. Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECU fully clockwise and wait until inspection lamps flash. #Number of flashes displayed indicates corresponding mode. Note number of flashes, then immediately turn diagnostic mode selector fully counterclockwise. If ignition is turned Off during diagnosis, in each mode, and then turned back on again after power to the ECU has dropped off completely, diagnosis will automatically return to Mode I. For description of modes, proceed as follows: (Mode I): with engine stopped, system in bulb check state. with engine running, system in malfunction warning state. (Mode II): with engine stopped, system in self diagnostic results state. with engine running, system in front O2S monitor state. - Codes P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated P0011 Intake Valve Timing Control P0021 Intake Valve Timing Control P0031 O2 Sensor Heather P0032 O2 Sensor Heather P0037 O2 Sensor Heather P0038 O2 Sensor Heather P0043 O2 Sensor Heather P0044 O2 Sensor Heather P0051 O2 Sensor Heather P0052 O2 Sensor Heather P0057 O2 Sensor Heather P0058 O2 Sensor Heather P0100 MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor P0101 MAF Sensor P0102 MAF Sensor P0103 MAF Sensor P0105 Absolute Pressure Sensor P0107 Absolute Pressure Sensor P0108 Absolute Pressure Sensor P0110 IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Sensor P0112 IAT Sensor P0113 IAT Sensor P0115 ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor P0117 ECT Sensor P0118 ECT Sensor P0120 TP (Throttle Position) Sensor P0121 TP Sensor P0122 TP Sensor P0123 TP Sensor P0125 ECT Sensor P0127 Intake Air Temperature Sensor P0128 Thermostat Function P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1 P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring P0132 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Rich Shift Monitoring P0133 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Response Monitoring P0134 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 High Voltage P0135 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 1 P0136 Rear O2S, Bank 1 P0137 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Minimum Voltage Monitoring P0138 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring P0139 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Response Monitoring P0140 Rear O2S, Bank 1 High Voltage P0141 Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1 P0144 O2 Sensor Heather P0150 Closed Loop, Bank 2 Or Front O2S, Bank 2 P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring P0153 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Response Monitoring P0154 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 High Voltage P0155 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 2 P0156 Rear H02S Sensor, LH Bank P0157 Rear O2S, Bank 2 P0158 Rear O2S, Bank 2 P0159 Rear O2S, Bank 2 P0160 Rear O2S, Bank 2 P0161 Rear H02S Heater, LH Bank Or Bank 2 P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1 P0172 Fuel System Rich, Bank 1 P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2 P0175 Fuel System Rich, Bank 2 P0180 Tank Fuel Temp Sensor P0182 Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor P0183 Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor P0217 Engine Coolant High Temperature Enrichment Protection P0221 Throttle Position Sensor P0222 Throttle Position Sensor P0223 Throttle Position Sensor P0226 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P0227 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P0228 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P0245 Supercharger Bypass Valve Control Solenoid Valve P0300 Random Misfire P0301–*P0308 Misfire, Cylinder No. 1–8 P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1 P0327 Knock Sensor P0328 Knock Sensor P0330 Knock Sensor, Bank 2 P0335 CKP (Crank Shaft Position) Sensor P0340 CMP (Cam Shaft Position) Sensor (Phase) P0345 CMP Sensor (Phase) P0350 Ignition Signal P0400 EGR System P0402 EGRC/BPT Valve P0403 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit P0405 EGR Temperature Sensor P0406 EGR Temperature Sensor P0420 TW (Two-Way) Catalyst System, Bank 1 P0430 TW Catalyst System, Bank 2 P0440 EVAP Small Leak P0441 EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitor P0442 EVAP Control System P0443 Purge Control/V & S/V P0444 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve P0445 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve P0447 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve P0450 EVAP Pressure Sensor P0451 EVAP System Pressure Sensor P0452 EVAP System Pressure Sensor P0453 EVAP System Pressure Sensor P0455 EVAP Control System P0456 EVAP Control System P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Unit (Slow) P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Function P0462 Fuel Level Sensor P0463 Fuel Level Sensor P0464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor P0505 IACV/AAC Valve P0506 Idle Speed Control System P0507 Idle Speed Control System P0510 Closed TP Sensor P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor P0600 A/T Comm Line P0605 ECM/ECU P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp P0705 PNP Or Inhibitor Switch P0710 ATF Temp Sensor P0720 VSS A/T P0725 Engine Speed Signal P0731 A/T 1ST Signal P0732 A/T 2ND Signal P0733 A/T 3RD Signal P0734 A/T 4TH Signal Or TCC P0740 TCC SV Solenoid P0744 A/T TCC Signal P0745 Line Pressure S/V P0750 Shift Solenoid/V A P0755 Shift Solenoid/V B P1031 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Meter P1032 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Meter P1065 ECM Power Supply Heater P1102 Mass Air Flow Sensor Function Heater P1103 MAP Sensor Heater P1104 MAP Sensor Heater P1105 MAP/BARO Switch SOL/V P1108 MAP Sensor Heater P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank P1111 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve P1119 Radiator Temperature Sensor Circuit P1120 TP Sensor 2 P1121 Electronic Throttle Control Actuator P1122 Electronic Throttle Control Actuator P1124 Throttle Control Motor Relay P1125 Tandem TP Sensor P1126 Throttle Control Motor Relay P1128 Throttle Control Motor P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve P1131 Swirl Control Solenoid Valve P1132 Swirl Control Valve P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control, RH Bank 2 P1136 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve P1137 Swirl Control Valve Position Sensor P1138 Swirl Control Valve P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, LH Bank 1 P1143 Heated O2 Sensor 1 P1144 Heated O2 Sensor 1 P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 2 P1146 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1147 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1 P1163 Heated O2 Sensor 1 P1164 Heated O2 Sensor 1 P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch P1166 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1167 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1168 Closed Loop, Bank 2 P1169 Heated O2 Sensor 3 P1170 Heated O2 Sensor 3 P1210 Traction Control Signal Circuit P1211 ABS/TCS Control Unit P1212 ABS/TCS Communication Line P1217 Engine Coolant Temperature P1220 FPCM P1221 Throttle Actuator Circuit P1222 Temperature Sensor Circuit P1223 Throttle Position Sensor 2 P1224 Throttle Position Sensor 2 P1225 Closed Throttle Position Learning P1226 Closed Throttle Position Learning P1227 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 P1228 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 P1229 Sensor Power Supply P1271 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1272 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1273 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1274 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1276 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1278 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1279 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1320 Ignition Signal, Primary P1335 CKP Sensor (Ref) P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) Cog P1400 EGRC Solenoid/V P1401 EGR Temp Sensor P1402 EGR System P1440 EVAP Small Leak P1441 VC/V Bypass/V P1443 Canister Control Vacuum Check Switch P1444 Purge Volume Control/V P1445 Purge Volume Control/V P1446 Vent Control Valve P1447 EVAP Purge Flow P1448 Vent Control Valve P1456 EVAP Control System P1464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Ground Signal P1480 Fan Control Solenoid Valve Circuit P1490 VC/V Bypass/V P1491 VC Cut/V Bypass/V P1492 Purge Control/V S/V P1493 Purge Control/V & S/V P1564 ASCD Steering Switch P1568 ICC (Intelligent Cruise Control) P1572 ASCD (Automatic Sped Control Device) Brake Switch P1574 ASCD Vehicle Speed Sensor P1605 A/T Diag Comm Line P1610 NATS Malfunction P1611 NATS Malfunction P1612 NATS Malfunction P1613 NATS Malfunction P1614 NATS Malfunction P1615 NATS Malfunction P1705 TP Sensor A/T P1706 PNP Switch P1720 Vehicle Speed Sensor- A/T Output P1760 Overrun Clutch S/V P1775 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve P1776 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve P1780 Shift Change Signal P1800 VIAS Control Solenoid Valve P1805 Brake switch P1900 Cooling Fan P2122 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P2123 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P2127 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 P2128 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 P2135 Throttle Position Sensor P2138 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor [post_title] => 350Z Diagnostic ECU Codes and How to Clear Them [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-ecu-codes [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-12-19 07:42:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-12-19 14:42:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1352 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Changing trans oil on a G35 6MT:
NOTE:Do NOT use GL5 transmission fluid. It will damage the synchros in the Nissan transmission. You need GL4 fluid. Most fluid you buy at autoparts stores is GL5.
I recommend a mixture of 2 quarts Redline MTL (70W-80) and 2 quarts Redline MT-90 (75W-90), as Nissan calls for 75W-85 oil.
Jack up car and place on jackstands.
You will see 1 drain plug on the bottom of the transmission, and 1 fill plug on the passenger side. Both use a 10mm Hex Socket.
Slide the oil drain container directly under the drain plug and remove the drain plug. Wear gloves, as it pours out very fast.
Remove the fill plug and allow the contents to drain for awhile.
While waiting for the fluid to drain, prepare the new fluid for insertion. Get the fluid suction gun ready, and open all the fluid bottles.
Check that the fluid is fully drained. Replace the drain plug and torque it down.
Use a hand-held pump to pump new fluid from the bottles into the trans.These can be bought for around $10 at any autoparts store, and save a TON of hassle.
Once you have finished there may be some overflow dripping out of the fill hole.
Insert the fill plug and torque down per the manual.
[post_title] => 350Z and G35 manual transmission fluid change [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => g35-350z-6mt-fluid-change [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:23:57 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:23:57 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1355 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => ***from 350zclub writeup***
Intro: The 350Z and G35 6MT both come with nice short-throw shifters from the factory, right? No ones really ‘complains’ about the throw on them, or the feel. Nissan did a great job! So why, oh why, would we want to go and muck it all up? Because we’re gear heads damn it! We can’t leave anything well enough alone! Got to make it bigger, better, faster, lighter, stronger, etc…what the hell is wrong with us?!?! Who knows, but I bet we’d all modify a Mclaren F1 if given the chance and funding. So, like many others, I decided I wanted to shorten the shift in my 350Z because, well… I wanted to. Thusly, without further diatribe:
- One important note: Please read the instructions that were included with your shifter before beginning the install, twice. I seriously recommend this.
Step one: Buy the shifter (obviously!), and then size it up. The box looks like this:
Step two: Removal of stock shift knob
Look at your stock shifter. It comes off by unscrewing it (rotate it counter-clockwise)…good luck doing this by hand. After much deliberation and grunting we decided to take the installation instructions advice and get a rag and some channel locks to take that thing off. (Someone in Japan has strong hands to get that knob on there!). I seriously suggest double wrapping the rag, and having a second pair of hands (THANKS CHADD!) to help with keeping the rag tout around the shift knob while you reposition the channel locks during this process.
Step Three: Dismantling the interior
Ok, with the knob off, reach under the shift boot and pull back and upward to disengage the pins holding the interior panel/ console on. It should pop right out, without much fuss at all.
Step Three pt 2: Remove the clip/wiring harness going to the A/C controls
A small screwdriver is nice to have to push the retaining clip back so it pops out. DO NOT FORCE I! Also, of particular note, this is a ribbon cable. Anyone who knows computers knows that you must not pull on these, or they break easily. Be careful.
Step Four: Removing shifter coverings
OK, so you got the panel off and you see a fuzzy foam thing. That comes right off. See below:
Once removed you’ll see the stock secondary shift boot and retaining plate:
There are four bolts holding the shift boot onto the transmission tunnel. These are easily removed with a 10mm socket, ratchet and 6” extension.
Now, with that removed you should see a second boot covering the shifter assembly. That just pops off. That will reveal the triangular plants holding your shifter in.
Step Five: Removing stock shifter assembly
Now you can see the stock retaining plate. Pay particular note to where the reverse lockout in faces! (For those who don’t…it goes toward the passenger side!) The bolts are 10mm. Very simple to remove. Again, ratchet, extension and a 10mm socket, should be easy. Be sure to keep the top shifter plate (triangle thing with 3 bolts in it).
Step Six: Removal of the single 12mm bolt holding the linkage to the shifter
First, Jack up the car (you can do the entire car if you like, but we only needed to lift up the one side to get access to it. First off, the pics didn’t come out for this part (sorry!), but you’ll see another boot covering the linkage, remove that (it slips off). There’s a single 12mm bolt holding the shifter in at this point, you can see it above the composite driveshaft (refer to the install manual for this). A stubby ratchet and 12mm socket are all you need. Once it comes loose, the shifter will pop up about 2” in the air, because of the spring underneath it that you can’t see at this point. Don’t worry, that’s normal. Just get back out from under the car and remove everything (including the spring).
Side by side comparison of the two units:
Step Seven: Notching the shifter housing -
Ok, now look at the shifter casing:
Now, get a nice file. The top left section (in relation to sitting in the drivers seat) needs to get about 1/8” taken off from the middle point upward. See below for the after. According to B&M, this allows for engagement of reverse, probably important to do. Of note, since the shifter is isolated from the transmission, you don’t have to worry about the shavings getting into your transmission and causing issues:
Now, clean all that stuff out as best you can. A rag and some simple green works great. After it’s been cleaned, take the small tube of lube they give you and lube the crud out of the cavity (Whoa! Sounds dirty… but not really) Be sure to lube the inner sections of the shift linkage too!
Step Eight: Installing the new B&M unit
Ok, now that everything is lubed all nice; assemble the B&M shifter per the instructions. It’s quite simple. Be sure to press the O-ring into the recess on the shifter. Then drop the shifter in, being sure to put the spring in first! I recommend hand-tightening the Allen-head bolts on to ensure it doesn’t move around.
Step Nine: Attaching the shift linkage
Ok, now slide your butt up under the car again. Reinstall the 12mm bolt that you removed previously in step six. This should be pretty easy. Make sure you torque it down decently. Then pull the shift linkage boot back up over the assembly. There’s a small groove in the base of the shifter casing that it sits on, this can be a pain in the butt. I found it easiest to put the front (in reference to the car) on first, and then use the little “dog ears” on the boot to pull it up over the sides and back.
You can now lower the car back down. OK, the B&M install manual is very vague about this, but you DO have to put the stock triangular plate back onto the unit. SO unscrew the 3 Allen-head bolts you hand threaded previously, and put the old triangular plate back on.
Now, as per the B&M manual, make sure to adjust that top plate so you can get into every gear. As far as positioning it goes, we found it best to stick it into 5th gear, and set the plate touching the reverse lockout pin and tighten it down. This will keep you from overshooting 5th gear (which you can do if you move the plate too far to the passenger side). Once you can confirm you get full engagement, and can’t accidentally engage reverse, tighten all the bolts down nice and tight.
Step Eleven: Reinstallation
Ok, reinstall the smaller triangle shift boot nice and snug.
Continue by reinstalling the larger shift boot, and tighten down the four 10mm bolts going across from each other to ensure proper torque.
Ok, now put the little fuzzy cover back on!
Finally, plug the harness back into the console piece, and reinstall but sliding the tabs at the front of it underneath the notches in the dash, and press it back into place. Reinstall the stock shift knob (without the little brass-colored collar!), and you’re done! Enjoy your new, even shorter-shifting Z or G35!
[post_title] => 350z and G35 B&M Short Shifter Install [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-g35-short-shifter-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:45:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 03:45:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1374 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Replacing the Thermostat on a VG30ET by:winez31 1: drain the coolant by unbolting the coolant temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator. It will have two wires coming out of it just follow them up and unplug it. 2: unscrew and remove the hose clamps from the small hose thats connected to the thermostat housing.(this is a good time to replace that hose because they are known to leak) 3: now remove the hose clamp that connects the hose to the radiator. then romove the hose. 4: there are 3 bolts that hold the housing together. Unbolt those and remove the top half of the housing. You might have to scrape off some gasket sealer around the outside of the housing. 5: now switch out the old thermostat with the new, and replace the gasket. 6: now do everything in reverse. [post_title] => Z31: Replacing the Thermostat on a VG30ET [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-thermostat-replace [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:29:07 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:29:07 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1378 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Click for better viewing [post_title] => Paint Code Guide for 350Z [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => paint-code-350z [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-17 20:05:22 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-18 03:05:22 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1395 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => NISSAN SPEAKER SIZE LIST (alphabetical) You can find good deals on car speakers at Amazon. By: Simmsled 200SX 1984-1998 2 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck 1984-1988 H.B. 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Side 240SX 1989-1993 2 Door 4x6 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck 1989-1993 H.B. 4x6 F. Door 4x6 R. Side 1994-1998 2 Door 6.5 F. Door (some also have 3/4in tweeters in A-pillars) 6.5 R. Deck (oversized 6.5) 300ZX 1984-1989 2 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Side 1990-1996 2 Door 6.5 F. Door 5.25 R. Side (with Bose system 3.89 inches [odd size]) Altima 1993-1997 4 Door 5x7 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck (oversized 6.5) [[note...6x9 with factory CD]] 1998-1999 4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck Axxess 1990-1992 S.W. 5.25 F. Door 5.25 R. Side Frontier 1998-1999 6.5 F. Door Xterra 2000-2002 6.5 F. Door (might have 1 inch tweeter in door as well) 6x9 R. Deck Maxima 1985-1988 4 Door 5.25 F. Door 5.25 R. Deck 1989-1994 4 Door 4x6 F. Door 6x9 R. Deck 1995-1999 4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck 5 gen and 5.5 gen Front = It is 6.5 in the front door panels with 1 inch tweater in the A-pillar Rear = 6.5 in the rear door and 6.5 woofer in the rear deck. All powered by a bose amp. NX 1991-1994 2 Door 4x6 F. Door 6.5 R. Side Pathfinder 1986-1993 6.5 F. Door 6x9 R. Side 1994-1995 5x7 F. Door 5x7 R. Side 1996-1999 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Door Pick-up 1980-1986 5.25 K. Panel 1986-1998 6.5 F. Door Pulsar 1983-1986 H.B. 4 Dash 6.5 R. Side 1987-1990 H.B. 6.5 F. Door 5.25 R. Side Quest 1993-1998 5x7 F. Door 5x7 R. Side Sentra 1987-1999 2-4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck Stanza 1982-1986 2 Door 5.25 F. Door 5.25 R. Side 1987-1989 4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6x9 R. Deck 1987-1989 H.B. 6.5 F. Door 6x9 R. Side 1990-1992 4 Door 5.25 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck [post_title] => Complete Nissan Speaker Sizing Guide [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => complete-nissan-speaker-sizing-guide [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:08:47 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:08:47 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1396 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => INFINITI SPEAKER SIZES By: Simmsled FX35/ FX45- 2004+ Dash - Left, Center, and Right 2.5 tweeters (one in each location) F. Door 6.5 R. Door 6.5 D-Pillars 2.5 tweeters Under Cargo Floor - 5.25 woofers (1 pair) G20 - 1991-1996 4 Door 4x6 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck I30 -1995-1996 4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck J30 - 1992-1996 4 Door 5x7 F. Door ---A-Pillar tweeter 1 inch or 3/4 inch 6x9 R. Deck M30 -1990 4 F. Door 6x9 R. Deak Q45 -1990-1991 4 Fronts in plastic speaker pods. It is possible to go as big as 8s with beefy reinforcement and shallow magnet depth. (some could be 6.5's) 6x9 R. Deck Q45 -1992-1996 4 Door (94-96 have 1' tweeters in A pillars) 6.5 F. Door (some could be 4s) 6x9 R. Deck Q45 -1997-2001 Front door: 6.5 inch Rear door: 5.25 inch Rear deck: 6.5 inch QX4 - 2003 6.5's F. Door + 1inch tweeter in A-Pillar 6.5's R. Door [post_title] => Complete Infiniti Speaker Sizing Guide [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => complete-infiniti-speaker-sizing-guide [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 00:09:05 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 07:09:05 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1452 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This is an instant and free mod to do to your Z. Tools needed: - Phillips Screwdriver - 10mm Socket - Pair of dykes (cutters) Removing the foglights: 1. First you will need to remove the turn signal. The turn signal is held in with two phillips screws (red circles), undo them and the turn signal will slide out. 2. After you get the turn signal out, you will be able to see the back of the foglight, which is held in with three (3) 10mm nuts. Before taking off the nuts, undo the connector (green arrow) and then take off the nuts (red circles). Then push from the back and the foglight will pop out the front. Removing the glare guard: 1. With the foglight out, remove the four (4) phillips screws at each corner of the back of the foglight (red circles) 2. The back will come off, but the wiring will still be connected to the lens. To disconnect the wiring, first slide off the grounding wire (top red arrow), and then pull back the clip holding the light bulb in (bottom red arrow). Take out the light bulb and be careful to not touch the light bulb as the oil on your fingers will shorten the life of the bulb considerably. 3. Remove the two phillips screws on each side, make sure you do not loose the little white rubber/plastic pieces (red circles). Then turn the foglight over and turn the phillips screw on the front like you are taking it out (this is the alignment screw) and when you watch from the back, you will notice the lens will be coming off the screw (green circle). 4. Take the lens out and you will see the glare guard. 5. The glare guard is just a piece of metal that is attached at two points. Take a pair of dykes and just cut each of these two attachment points and the glare guard will come off. 6. Put everything back together in reverse order, install them back on your car and you will have much brighter foglights. Before. After. [post_title] => Z32: Glare Guard Removal for Brighter Foglights [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-z32-glare-guard-removal-for-brighter-foglights [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:17:29 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:17:29 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1453 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Since searching around on the internet revealed this is becoming a more common problem as the 300zx ages, I figured I'd address it. If you have the symptom that you turn your key off and remove it and your Z won't shut off, it is most likely your fuel controller. Removal and replacement is simple and straight forward. Tools needed : Phillips screwdriver 10mm socket with extension on ratchet Start by removing the two interior panels shown below...they just pop off. Next fold back the trunk mat to expose 4 phillips screws holding the package tray to the trunk floor (red circles) Then remove the 4 ten mm nuts that hold the package tray down on the top side (also red circles) and remove the package tray. Once that is removed you will see two 10mm head phillips bolts at the back edge of the center console riser that butts up to the package tray. Remove those two bolts. On the sides of the center console riser there are two phillips screws under black plastic bolt covers, one on the drivers side next to the seat, one on the passenger side next to the seat. Pop open the covers and remove the screws. Now you can remove the center console riser. Next, back up top where you removed the drivers side cover in the first step, you will most likely see a "package" that contains the headlight aiming tools. Remove that and toss it aside. Once you do that you will see one phillips screw/10mm bolt that holds the interior trim piece (grey tweed unless reupholstered otherwise) that runs behind the drivers seat. Remove that screw. The trim piece is held into the side trim below the b-pillar by a plastic snap. Wiggle it a little and pop it out. Set the trim piece aside. Your interior should look something like this now From here you can easily see the fuel computer, but it is much easier to access and remove if you take out the black felt covered lower trim pieces that is behind the seat. This is held in by plastic snaps and one phillips screw which is under a black plastic bolt cover. Remove this piece and you will see the following. Here's what you're after. There is another computer on top of the fuel computer. Simply remove the two 10mm nuts and swing it out of the way. You will see the fuel computer. Unplug the harness and remove the fuel computer. Follow the steps in reverse for re-installation. Also, keep in mind that there is a lot of insulation, sound deadening material, and other junk under the panels.I don't have any of it in my car, it just adds weight. Put it back in if you wish. New the fuel controllers are big money, but they can be had used in good working condition anywhere from $25-$200 depending on how lucky you are and if the seller knows what they have. Hope this helps out anybody who searches for info on how to do it. [post_title] => Z32: Fuel Controller/Computer replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 90-96-300zx-z32fuel-controller-computer-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:24:46 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:24:46 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1454 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Time: 2 Hours Tools Needed: - 10mm socket - 12mm socket - Phillips screw driver - Small and Medium Extensions Procedure 1. There are two (2) 12mm nuts on the front of the headlight and two (2) 12mm bolts on the back of the headlight. The front two the the rear one closest to the center of the car are the easy to get to. The rear one that is on the outside of the car is harder to get to. Here is a pic with the headlight out to show you where the nuts/bolts are located. 2. Remove the center panel by removing four (4) 10mm bolts at the top of the center panel (red circles). 3. Remove the MAF harness (red circle) and remove your intake (blue circle)(you guys with stock airboxes, this step will be a little harder because you will have to remove the whole airbox I believe) 4. Remove the T-hose (red circles) 5. On Twin Turbo models, I believe you have to also remove the recirc. valves at this point. 6. Now you will be able to remove the nut and bolt that is closest to the center of the car. All the nuts and bolts holding the headlight in are 12mm. Remove the front 12mm nut nearest to the center of the car (red circle) 7. Remove the rear 12mm bolt nearest to the center of the car (red circle) 8. Do the same for the other headlight. 9. Remove the turn signals by taking out the two phillips screws and then the turn signal will pop out (red circles) 10. Going through the hole left by the turn signal, remove the front 12mm nut that is to the outside of the car (red circle) 11. Do steps 8-9 for the other side. 12. Now for the hard part. For the drivers side, turn the wheels all the way to the right and take out four 10mm bolts along the wheel well splash guard and pull back to get access to the final 12mm bolt on the rear of the headlight. 13. Here is the bolt you are trying to get to. This is the easier of the two (red circle). 14. Now for the passenger side. Turn te wheels all the way to the left and take out four 10mm bolts out of the wheel well splash guard and also take out the two top phillips screws out of the top of the wheel well splash guard to gain easier access to the bolt. When you pull back the splash guard, you will see an box with a couple vacuum hoses coming out of it and an electrical connection. This box is connected to the body by one 10mm bolt and remove this to get it out of your way to get easier access to the 12mm bolt on the headlight (red circle). 15. Due to the wires running right next to the final bolt at the rear of the headlight, you will have to have a ratchet with small head on it. Here is an ok picture of the bolt (red circle). 16. After removing this final bolt, you will be able to take out the headlights. Take out the bulbs first and then you will have to pull up and out at the same time. They are a little difficult to get out. 17. Reverse the steps to reinstall. [post_title] => Z32: Headlight Removal [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan300zx-z32-headlight-removal [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:44:14 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:44:14 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1462 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Time - 1-2 hours Tools Needed: - Phillips screw driver - 12mm socket - 12mm wrench - Medium extension - Tiny-*** hands (not required, but very helpful) Procedure 1. Remove the radio bezel by removing 4 phillips screws (red circles) that are hidden behind some clips. The bottom two in the following picture already have the plastic strip removed. The top two still have the plastic clips in. 2. Remove the center console by removing 3 phillips screws (red circles) and removing the shift knob by unscrewing the shift knob. If you have never removed the shift knob before, this part will be really tough as Nissan put lock-tite on the threads. 3. Remove the upper dust boot (red circle). 4. Remove the shifter bracket by removing the 5 12mm bolts (red circles). 5. Remove the the 12mm nut and the 12mm bolt (red circle) where the shifter attaches to the bracket. The bolt has a nut on the topside (it might be switched around, I removed my shifter before I took this pictures and can't remember if I switched it around or not) and is difficult to get off. You have to hold the bottom side of the bolt with a ratchet or wrench, and loosen the top side at the same time. The second pic illustrates this. 6. Now for the most difficult part to do. The shifter is attached to the linkage by a 12mm bolt with a 12mm nut and washer. There is not room to fit two hands down under, so you have to manipulate the wrench and pieces with one hand squeezed down there. What I did was I put the boxed-end side a 12mm wrench on the drivers-side of the bolt and held it one there with three fingers, and then put a 12mm socket on the passenger-side of the bolt and used my other hand to loosen it. When you finally get the nut off, remember that there is a washer on there, don't drop that. If you do drop anything (which usually happens with me), it usually just drops through the car and to the ground. Here is a pic illustrating what I'm explaining. 6. Reverse the steps to reinstall. Reinstallation is a little bit tougher because, like I said, you can only fit one hand under the shifter, and so it is hard to get the nut started on the bolt. [post_title] => Z32: Shifter Removal [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-300zx-z32-shifter-removal [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:44:49 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:44:49 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1463 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This write-up explains how to check the codes of the ECU in a '90-'95 300ZX. You guys with the '96 300ZX have the OBDII system. Tools Needed: - 10mm socket or Phillips screwdriver - Flathead screwdriver Procedure 1. Pull back the floor mat. 2. Pull back the carpet. It is held down with three Velcro strips. 3. Remove the wood floorboard, it is held on by 4 10mm bolts (red circles). 4. Now you will see the ECU. 5. Look at the side of the ECU and you will see a screw (red circle) and a little window (blue circle). The screw is used to switch between diagnostic modes and the window contains a LED. 6. Turn the key to ACC (accessory), but do not start the car. You will see the little LED light up. The ECU is currently in Mode I. 7. Turn the screw with a flathead screwdriver fully clockwise, wait 2 seconds, and then turn the screw fully counter-clockwise. You are now in Mode II. The LED will be flashing now. The long flashes are the first digit, and the short flashes are the second digit. Look at the following list to determine the code. Codes under Mode II 11: crank angle sensor circuit 12*: air flow meter circuit 13*: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit 14*: vehicle speed sensor circuit 21: ignition signal circuit 26*: boost pressure sensor 31*: ECU 32*: EGR function 33*: exhaust gas sensor circuit (left) 34: detonation sensor circuit 35*: exhaust gas temp. sensor circuit 42: fuel temp. sensor circuit 43*: throttle position sensor circuit 45*: injector leak 51*: injector circuit 53*: exhaust gas sensor circuit (right) 54: signal circuit from A/T control to ECU 55: NO malfunctions in the above * indicates that the "Check Engine" light will come on under normal driving. 8. Turn the screw fully clockwise, wait 2 seconds, and turn back fully counter-clockwise to exit Mode II and return to Mode I. To check O2 sensors 1. While in Mode II, start the engine and warm the engine up. 2. The ECU is now checking the left O2 sensor. Run the engine at 2000rpms for 2 minutes and watch the "Check Engine" light. The light should be blinking constantly. 3. To check the right O2 sensor, turn the screw on the ECU fully clockwise, wait 2 seconds, and then turn back fully counter-clockwise, the ECU will now be checking the right O2 sensor. Run the engine at 2000rpms for 2 minutes while watching the "Check Engine" light. As before, the light should be blinking constantly. 4. The light indicates the signal from the O2 sensor to the ECU. When the light is ON, it is rich. When the light is OFF, it is lean. It should be blinking, which means it is constantly switching between rich and lean. If the light is not constantly blinking, there is something wrong and will require further investigation. 5. Turn the screw on the ECU full clockwise, wait 2 seconds, and turn back fully counter-clockwise. The ECU will be back in Mode I. [post_title] => Z32: ECU Diagnostic/O2 Sensor Test [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-300zx-z32-ecu-diagnostic [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:45:31 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:45:31 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1492 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How to reset your ECU and perform the Throttle Pedal Release and Idle Air Volume Learning procedures on an Infiniti G35 and the Nissan 350Z.
Before attempting any of the following procedures, it is advisable that you read through the instructions thoroughly and familiarize yourself with them.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
**a quick reset can be accomplished by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and depressing the brake a few times.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch to “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
[post_title] => 350Z and G35 ECU reset procedure [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => g35-350z-ecu-reset-procedure [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:26:32 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:26:32 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1509 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => OK, so this is one of my first mods to my 2005 350Z, and I figured some of you guys would benefit from the process being shown.
Step One - FIND YOUR ENEMY!
Yep. Very good. You found it. Chrome is bad, right? RIGHT! I much prefer the Matte/Brushed aluminum look.
Step Two - Get a grease pen (I used red), and outline the old emblem. Marking very darkly near the ends of the "NISSAN" plate.
Note: The new emblem does not have alignment pins, where the stock emblem does. Mark it now so you can align the new symbol correctly!
Step Three - Compare your emblems! Bright shiny chrome one=bad, brushed aluminum look one=good.
Step Four - Get out some fishing line. Work it under the double sided tape holding the old emblem off. GET GLOVES! It requires quite a bit of tension to start pulling through the tape. I found it easier to start at the top then do the sides and bottom. Moving the fishing line back and forth and you go through it also helpful, but can lead (in my case) to shredding /breaking the line. Get at least 20lb line. I only had 15lb line and wished it had been stronger.
Step Five - Once the backing has been cut through with the fishing line, slowly pull the old emblem off your trunk. It should look like this:
Step Six - Get that old adhesive crap off the paint! I used my fingernail and some simple green. Someone mentioned using Goo Gone, it may work better. Don't use anything that may damage the paint. Afterwards someone recommended a popsicle stick or plastic/teflon scraper, try it.
Step Seven - clean the surface -WITHOUT- wiping off the grease pen marks!
Step Eight - Peel the backing off the new and improved emblem, and align it with the grease pen marks. Once done it will look like this:
Another shot of the finished product:
[post_title] => 350z Emblem Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-emblem-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:25:30 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:25:30 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1561 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How to convert your 300zx (Z32) USDM taillights to JDM taillights This isn't meant to be a "How-to" write up. But you can follow it at your own discretion as you may break your tails. I did, but I had a back-up set. Tools Needed: Paint Brush Oven or heat gun Terry or microfiber cloth (optional) 800-2000 grit sandpaper (optional) Items needed: Extra set of taillights (optional, but highly recommended) Clear lens material (fluorescent light diffusers from Lowe's or Home Depot can work) Pinstriping tape PlastiX or other plastic polish (optional) The "Before" shot Heat the taillights in/on the oven at very low heat (200 degrees?) When the silicone has softened enough, begin prying the lens cover from the housing (be sure to look for any screws or clips that need to be removed) Toss out the old orange crap, and popped in the clear goodness. Pinstriping the inside of the of the lens Painting away the marks made while prying the tail light apart Sandwiched back together Back on the stove, then more squeezing Now that its been put back together and cooled off, you can wetsand the imperfections out of it (optional). Polish. PlastiX is good stuff! Voila! One down, one more to go. Now done. This took 4 hrs. My Z with USDM tails Now with the ones I just made in my kitchen, big diff eh? Real JDM tails Total cost (including junkyard tail lights): $40 Real JDM Z32 taillights: $495 Savings: $455 [post_title] => Z32: DIY JDM Taillights [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-300zx-diy-jdm-taillights [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2017-06-29 00:29:46 [post_modified_gmt] => 2017-06-29 07:29:46 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1605 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
Latest Car and Driver update: NoHotWire 350z Race TeamMonday, September 8, 2008: Car and Driver Magazine releases their latest update on the Car and Driver / NoHotWire RacingNissan 350Z.“With one or two delusional exceptions, Car and Driver staffers have abandoned any dreams of becoming pro racing drivers. Our glory ships sailed years ago–indeed, around age three when our parents somehow neglected to buy us go–karts, but we are not numb to occasional opportunities to play major–league driver, especially at someone else’s prodigious sweat and vast expense. Such an opportunity seemed to be dangling from a low–hanging branch in the early spring of 2006. As fast as Eve in the Garden, we reached up and plucked it. Between then and the Grand–Am Koni Challenge Series Fresh From Florida 200 race at Daytona International Speedway on January 25, 2008, we learned some important lessons. First, at any level of pro racing–even the kind that has thin television coverage and mostly unknown drivers–just showing up with a functional machine able to run no better than last in its class is shockingly difficult and expensive. Secondly, when someone offers you a free car, run in the other direction.” Full Car and Driver Article may be viewed here: Mad Money - Sport HISTORY As the web's largest and most active resource for Nissan enthusiasts, NICOclub has always sought to support and promote Nissan racing enthusiasts with professional race teams. Running a successful race team is hard enough without having to worry about securing exposure and maintaining a web presence. Here at NICO we've made it a mission to offer our services to any team actively campaigning a Nissan-built competition vehicle, by developing dedicated team homepages and giving the race teams and their fans a place to congregate and communicate via discussion forums. Amateur and grassroots Nissan racing enthusiasts are supported as well, from road racing to drifting, off-road racing to drag racing. We had great hopes with Team HLM's G35 Coupe, which was to participate in the Grand American Rolex Sports Car Series GT division, by promoting their official site, G35GT.com, and discussion forum. Team HLM participated in the 2007 24-hours of Daytona event but, due to lack of sponsor support, were unable to continue fielding the two vehicles they had built for this series. Late last year, NICOclub brought online the NoHotWireRacing website and discussion forum in order to assist another Nissan-oriented race team. NoHotWire (Ravelco) is the exclusive provider of the Ravelco Anti-Theft Device in California, and a nationwide leader in preventing vehicle theft. In 2006, NoHotWire, amateur racer Richard Biscevic and Car and Driver magazine kicked off a joint project to take a stock Nissan 350z, prepare it for the 2007 Grand American Cup season and see what it takes for a team of racing amateurs and car magazine editors to compete in the nation's newest, hottest road racing series. Thus began the CarandDriver / NoHotWire racing team. While Car and Driver actively reports on the status of the team, more up-to-date reports may be found on the official teams website. Recent updates to the page include the latest NISMO 350z body modifications to the vehicle and changes in the cams to increase lacking performance. Finally, a donations/sponsorship page has been added. As funding for this team is based upon sponsorship, NoHotWire is accepting contributions to continue development and support the racing schedule as a whole. For your donation to the team they are offering packages in return for your support. These packages range from getting your name on the website, on the car itself, gear such as hats and shirts, paddock passes and even pit passes for racing events. Donations are needed so please contribute if possible. NICOclub wishes good luck to the Car and Driver / NoHotWire racing team. Keep the pedal to the floor and your eyes on the apex. Photography by: Richard Dole Morgan Segal Rich Biscevic [post_title] => Car and Driver / NoHotWire Racing Nissan 350z KONI challenger car [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => car-and-driver-nohotwire-racing-nissan-350z-koni-challenger-car [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-11-14 20:47:47 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-11-15 03:47:47 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1607 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-21 07:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-21 14:38:11 [post_content] =>
Thanks To Forza Motorsport 3 This G-Coupe Can Also Keep Pace in CyberspacePhotos By Vince Lei We have all drooled over the buff-bodied and heavily boosted Skyline, Fairlady and GT-R racers that deal out the pain in JGTC competition. We have also envisioned driving our own cars on some the world’s most famous tracks. That dream can be tapped into on Forza Motorsport 3, the latest driving simulation game from Microsoft’s Turn 10 Studios. The Nissan Nation can build the car they park in their garage, complete with in-depth performance mods, and drive it at locales like Le Mans, Tsukuba Circuit, Twin Ring Motegi, Suzuka, Nurburgring or one of the game’s fictional venues like the drifter paradise known as Fujimi Kaido. Thanks to Forza 3’s intensely developed physics model the drive will feel real. Physics of Friction—Grip, The Name Of The Game The physics model is a compilation of mathematic algorithms that magically transform into feelings in the controller, the feeling of tires struggling for grip at the ragged edge of adhesion. Forza 3 designers go to great lengths to simulate what happens between the tire and the tarmac and the game breaks new ground in the depth and detail of player feedback. “Our physics model is like a weather system in that all the parameters are intimately interrelated,” says Forza game director Dan Greenawalt. “So weather forecasting is more accurate now than it was two years ago, which was more accurate than two years before that. So a weather forecasting system from eight to 10 years ago is thoroughly obsolete. Same with game physics.” “It comes down to learning more about variables; the eastern tradewinds, heat from the surface, the effects of hot and cold fronts on a more detailed scale, wind, pressure, moisture, there are a whole bunch of variables. Well tire physics are just the same you have ambient temperature, heat coming off the pavement, how you drive the tire, how far over peak you go which heats up the outside of the tire then the gases inside the tire heat up changing the air pressure inside the tire. The road surface’s coefficient of friction, how smooth it is, its incline and the consequences of that extra heat on the overall handling characteristics of the car in question including the tire width, sidewall size and compound, the suspension’s habits, vehicle weight and driveline configuration and many other contributing variables. We have tried to think of all the angles.” “All that heat ingestion effects how tire deformation works. It is all inter-related. You can’t pick and choose what to simulate you have to simulate everything. Just like looking at a weather system. You can’t say that you learned that the tradewinds do this but we decided not to put it into our math model. You have the data and you have to include it because a few years from now we will know more and we have to be vigilant so when we update our math model we are building from solid base. It is our prime commitment, a commitment to make the physics better each time, be thorough, use the best technology available because there’s a lot riding on this physics exercise.” Infiniti Infusion—Colin Reed’s G35 Many Turn 10 designers appreciate a spirited drive and will go the extra mile to roll in style. Lead software development engineer Colin Reed is one of the more devout as evidenced by his supremely modified 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe. The VQ35DE has been built for boost with 9:1 compression pistons from Arias secured by GT Motorsports rods to the stock crankshaft. A GReddy twin-turbo package with 18G turbos serves as the foundation of the G’s boost therapy plan. A TiAL Sports 38mm wastegate, GReddy Type RS blow-off valve and Stillen cat-back exhaust keeps both sides of the turbos flowing smoothly. Reed has upgraded to 550cc RC Engineering injectors, a Walbro 255 lph pump and CJM Stage 1 fuel return upgrade to fuel the beast, Boost control is handled by a Blitz SBC i-D and the combination was tuned to razor sharpness via a TurboXS UTEC engine management system. Reed did the tuning honors himself and extracted an impressive 557 wheel-horsepower at 17.5 psi. The G sits on JIC Magic FLT-A2 coilovers, rolls on limited edition 19-inch Volk RE-30 wheels with sick lip and sports a trick KurumaZ body kit shipped special from Japan. Reed’s hood is another piece of eye candy. He runs a Seibon carbon fiber hood with additional vents that has been color matched save for a fade treatment near the vent opening. The white slowly gives way to the carbon fiber at the lip of the vents, a cool touch. Reed’s level of modification can be easily recreated in Forza Motorsport 3. Cars, Tuning —The Heart And Soul Of Forza 3 There are 400 cars ready to roll in FM3 with more on the way via downloads. All of the cars are ranked to ensure fair racing. The scale goes from A to F for production cars and just like in school good grades are better so A cars spank F cars. Race cars are categorized and S and R3, R2 and R1, with R1 being the boldest of the bold. The letter is followed by a numeric ranking that positions the car within its class. So a Datsun 510 at F-102 is a step behind a Versa SL at F-128 and a Skyline 2000 GT-R at F-131. The ultimate Nissan weapon is the Le Mans R390 prototype at R2-846 followed closely by JGTC GT-R at R2-842 and JGTC Skyline GT-R R34’s at R2-825. Top Secret’s D1-Spec S15 Silvia checks in at S-648. As players race in the game they earn credits, which can be used to buy better cars, cool paint schemes and more performance. Parts can be bought individually or as packages in Forza 3’s Quick Upgrade menu that selects the level of modification based on a target class of cars. Using a 2004 Infiniti G35, like Reed’s as an example, the G-Coupe, which costs 17,000 credits, starts life with a D-346 rating. The accompanying charts illustrate the G35‘s in-game tuning potential via Quick Upgrade. Infiniti G35 Quick Upgrade
|C-425||Evo X, Impreza WRX STI|
|B-500||Mustang GT, Camaro SS|
|A-600||Lamborghini Murcielago LP640, Audi A8|
|S-700||Saleen S7, Maserati MC12|
|Class||HP||Lat G||Curb Weight (lbs)|
370Z Rally Across America, presented by NissanFor the launch of the 2010 Nissan 370Z, Nissan broke with tradition and decided to bring this car to the masses. In a long-awaited nod to enthusiasts nationwide, the car would be taken to the people, by the people... The folks who love Nissan's would be presenting the car to more people who love Nissans. Is this the start of a real enthusiast relationship within the company? Let's hope so! Great idea, in theory...But how to implement it? A multi-city US Tour, with a full staff and crew, for two vehicles, support trucks, equipment, travel arrangements, hotels, flights... a logistical nightmare, right? Wrong. Nissan selected the team that brings you the Hot Import Nights Tour to head up the Rally. These guys know how to prepare for events, and they brought their A-game on short notice. Nissan determined that certain "super-enthusiasts" across the country should participate in the Rally by offering them a chance to drive the 370Z throughout the entire tour. From professional Nissan race drivers to car builders to forum owners to collectors to aftermarket parts gurus, an all-star team of Nissan freaks was assembled. Again, a last-minute logistical nightmare was made completely manageable and smooth by the crew from HIN. Yours truly was fortunate enough to get a call to participate, and of course I jumped at the chance. Part of the deal was getting the word out about the Phoenix-area stop on the tour, and plans were made. I'd be handling the Phoenix-to-Houston leg of the journey, a three-day adventure that had me excited as a kid at Christmas time. The days prior to the arrival of the Z in Phoenix brought us some of the most torrential downpours Phoenix has seen in a year... We all had concerns about the weather holding us hostage, but on Friday morning, we were greeted with rainbows, sunny skies, and the anticipation of a new sports car from our friends at Nissan. Phoenix Westgate was the venue for the event, and the local Z owners showed up in force. Desert Z Association and the crew from AZ350Z.com pulled out all the stops, with some owners bringing out more than one car. Every generation of Z-car was represented, from an early-production S30 all the way up to a 2008 350Z that was already well-modded. A lone 311 Roadster, a new GTR, some Nissan trucks and a few Infiniti G35's rounded out the field. Eager anticipation turned to awe as the stars of the show were unveiled. For the next few hours, enthusiasts and the public were treated to 370Z Production Numbers Two and Three... a Monterey Blue base model with Sport Package, and a Chicane Yellow 370Z, fully optioned-out. Both cars featured Nissan's 6-speed manual transmission with Sport Mode and both were equipped with the Rays forged alloy wheels. Spectators were free to climb in and explore the interior, and the HIN crew raffled off some great Nissan-themed prizes to the lucky crowd while a DJ provided the background beats. Superior Racing Development was on hand with their mobile dyno, but a mechanical glitch prevented any bragging rights from being secured at the event. No matter, as we were all there to appreciate the latest heir to the throne of Z-car tradition. The next day would begin our travels, and my co-pilot for the trip was none other than Gregg Rogers, past-President of Sin City Z and 2009 President of Desert Z Association. Gregg owns a gorgeous, flawless droptop Z32 and a well-kept S30, and has been a Z fanatic since they debuted in America. He knows anyone and everyone involved in the Z community, and was an awesome traveling companion for this journey. Gregg and I selected the Monterey Blue base-model Z, and Marty Huynh (builder of what could be the world's most awesome G35 Coupe) would be manning the Chicane Yellow sister car. Prior to leaving Phoenix, we decided it would be a great opportunity to capture a memento from this occasion and replicate another historic journey from nearly 40 years prior. See, in October of 1969, Datsun brought a pair of pre-production 240Z cars into the Phoenix area for testing. Their trip is immortalized in a photograph taken in downtown Phoenix, in front of the old Phoenix Greyhound Park. The picture shows the two Z test cars, with an early 510 chase vehicle, and Datsun personnel consulting a map during their trip through the Valley. Well, here we were, 40 years later, on the same corner, with three modern versions: Two 370Z's and a new Maxima. We positioned the cars just as they were 40 years prior, staged the photos, and captured the moment. I thought a lot about that photo during our journey, and wondered if they had as much fun as we were going to? Then, the Datsun brand was still quite "foreign" to Americans, and I'm sure they felt like strangers in a strange land.Did they comprehend the history they were making?Could they have known the historical impact that this car would have on the American automotive landscape? The influence their car would have on sports car design and engineering? The vast numbers of Z-car aficionados that their efforts would spawn? I mulled over the differences and progress that had transpired in the past four decades and hoped that those guys, wherever they are now, were proud of what we were doing and how far we'd come. Getting out of Phoenix and heading east towards Tucson, Gregg coordinated an impromptu stop at a truck stop just south of Tucson with the local Z-car chapter. A perfectly-timed stop, we were welcomed by 20-something Z enthusiasts and curious onlookers who wondered what the hubbub was all about. Spending time with these guys made me realize how lucky we were to be participating in this event. A quick photo session, some Q & A about the new Z, and we were back on the road - We had a chase vehicle to keep up with! Let me go on record by saying we're the very first people to get a speeding ticket in a 370Z. A dubious distinction, but an honor nonetheless. One of New Mexico's finest nabbed us just outside of Deming doing 91 in a 75 zone. Even at that pace, we felt as if we were crawling along... This car BEGS to stretch its legs and be "let out to play", and as we left our unscheduled meeting with the long arm of the law, we wondered if we'd be stuck at pedestrian speeds for the duration of the trip. Our lesson unlearned, we soon got a chance to "unleash the beast" just outside Lordsburg. Up ahead, we noticed a distinctive shape in the fast lane. That shape turned out to be an impressive-looking G37 Coupe. As we pulled alongside at no-no speeds, the driver waved and shot off ahead. Ah, temptation... This might be worth a couple points on our license. As the needle spun clockwise, we reeled in the G37 and enjoyed the open freeway for a while, three 3.7-liter Nissan engines hurtling us down the freeway. Another rest stop brought us into contact with our temporary wingman - Who happened to be an incredibly beautiful woman. Stuttering and stammering, all I learned was that she set the car up herself, she was just "out for a drive", and that she was from Sierra Vista - So, Miss Infiniti, if you're reading this, thanks for the dance, and shoot me an email! Note to self: ALWAYS keep a business card in your pocket, not locked in the Z across the parking lot, for occasions such as this. Arrrgh!!!! Crossing through some of the smaller towns in west Texas, absorbed in the awesomeness of the Z, we lost track of one very important parameter of interstate travel: Miles covered vs. fuel remaining. With a stretch of over 100 miles between any thing remotely resembling a gas station, we sensed panic. Were we ALSO going to be the first people to run out of gas in a 370Z? No way, we'll make it. With the range meter reading 35 miles to go, and the next town 51 miles away, I had faith in the fuel economy of the Z. Easing up on the throttle, we were rewarded with a blank "miles to go" readout just a couple minute later, while still 30 miles from town. Fear? Hell yes. Who's going to call the chase truck? Who was supposed to remember to gas up? Uh-oh. We were in trouble. Almost out of gas, we coasted into the teeming metropolis of Roosevelt, TX. A town whose population doubled at our arrival,there was one lone gas station. As Gregg wandered in to see if the ancient gas pumps even had fuel, I clutched the Z keys and told him "If I hear banjo music, I'm getting the hell outta here." It was there we met 'Wanda' at the Simon Brothers Mercantile and General Store. Gregg :"Do you folks happen to have any 'Premium' fuel?" Wanda: "No sir, but we do got some 'High-Test' in the right-hand pumper!" Good enough for us - Time to fill it up. A couple locals popped out of the back of the store to gawk at the newfangled machinery, and we're pretty sure they hadn't even seen many 350Z's around these parts, much less a 2010 Z. Perusing the glory of the facility, every manner of dead, stuffed critter you can find in Texas was hanging on the walls... and available for sale. Need horseshoes? Wanda's got 'em, in every size. Need a set of antlers?Ammunition? Bait? A fishing license? Got those too. In fact, we learned that this building had been around for over 150 years, that Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough Riders used to stop in for their gear on hunting / fishing excursions, and were gently admonished that the town was pronounced 'Rooooosvelt', not 'Row-sevelt'. Duly noted and committed to memory, we'll never mispronounce that again. We were invited to stay for lunch, but the road was calling. Wanda warned us of every speed trap between Roosevelt and San Antonio, and wished us well as we hot-footed it out of there. Wanda, thanks for the history lesson - We'll be seeing you again. Interestingly, we thought for sure we'd collect a caravan of interested 350Z drivers during our journey. Yet, we were amazed that we only saw THREE 350Z's on the road between Phoenix and San Antonio - and 2 of them were Roadsters. For a car that's so prevalent, we thought it mighty strange that we saw so few on the freeway. A little more about our accommodations for the trip:The Z's full-sweep gauges perform their dance at startup and hint at what you're about to experience. The tach is large, and centrally-mounted, where it should be. Triple binnacles house the clock, ammeter and oil temperature gauges atop the center of the dash, and they're shrouded for easy visibility in any lighting. There's some really well-designed angling to the top of the dash to prevent glare.The digital fuel gauge / trip meter combo looks terribly out-of-place and mismatched with the rest of the cluster, but there's also an analog fuel gauge present. Effortless acceleration makes it difficult to maintain any sense of decorum or respect for local ordinances, and we commented often that this car begs to be unleashed and allowed to run free. The Sport Mode manual transmission with Synchro-Rev Matching blips the throttle much more deftly between shifts than any expert driver - eliminating the need for heel-toe downshifts. Flawless shifting is the name of the game here - A short-throw shifter without the mechanical notchiness that is so prevalent in many "performance" cars has been replaced. Realistically, that harsh action is unnecessary, and the new Z has a silky-smooth feel to its shift action. A novice manual driver could easily learn the "black art" of rowing their own gears in this car. We averaged 22.1 mpg over our portion of the trip - Not bad considering our frequent forays into the wrong side of the speedometer. Torque, although only up a few lb-ft from the previous generation, seems much more prevalent. Dropping the hammer in 5th or even 6th at normal highway speeds results in a seamless, clean advancement to felony velocities without bogging - The 370 is perfectly content to settle into 5th gear across a wide range of speeds. After saying it to each other over a dozen times, we simply smiled when rolling into the throttle in 6th gear - It's absolutely the most fun you can have on the right side of the shift pattern. I'd say this is the 370Z's most impressive trait. Love it. Audiophiles will want to select the Touring Package to ensure they get the most out of the factory sound system. Enough said. If you care that much about the sound quality of the stereo, you're probably not in the 370Z target market anyway. Engine sounds are much tamer than the previous generation, with much of the signature VQ note absent when revving the engine in neutral. However, under load, the familiar note returns, albeit with a more refined tone. This car is significantly lighter than the Z33 it replaces - Door, roof and hatch are all aluminum, and the difference is notable. Almost universally, the comments elicited from passers-by were the same: It looks so much better in person than in pictures. The "fangs" in the front fascia really "work" in person. The front end treatment is really aggressive, and looks absolutely menacing in the rear-view mirror. The styling cues reminiscent of the early Z-cars are much more apparent in person. The forged Ray's 19" alloy wheels drew loads of positive praise. The View over the hood reminds you that this car means business... This is no Honda Civic, and the hood rises up slightly above the cowl - Choose the color of your 370Z wisely, because you'll be seeing that tone every time you settle in for a drive. As if the hood weren't reminder enough, the rear fenders are incredibly prominent, and invade the side-view mirrors with each rearward glance. Finding our way into San Antonio for the evening, we compared notes with Marty and found that we were both in a agreement in our assessment of the car. A good night's rest was welcome, and the HIN crew did it in style, putting us up at the Hilton for the night. The next day would be a long one, and we needed all the rest we could get. Comfort? Hell yes. No 'car-butt' here, even after 8 hours in the saddle. Both Gregg and I were equally comfortable in the 370's redesigned seats, and we agreed that the base-model interior is plenty well-appointed. I'd pass on the leather interior and opt for the base, as it's really, really nice. Head room is sufficient for a helmeted driver of 6'2" or more, and I was ecstatic to note the lack of sunroof in either car. Finally, maybe we can bury that horrible contraption from the 80's for good! Nissan's literature claims a 0-60 time of just under 5 seconds and a top speed of 150mph (drag-limited). We guessed this to be conservative. We're convinced we're right, as our testing reveals there's plenty of pedal remaining at 130+. The Z feels rock-solid all the way up the gauge, and backing down from brief jaunts to double the posted limit left us feeling as if we were plodding along. Again, this car feels like it's begging to play. Not wanting to risk a week in some backwoods Texas jail, we opted to 'call it good' and save any more top-end testing for a later date and a controlled track environment. Thrumming and boomy resonance from the tires over freeway expansion joints and rough pavement is, at times, almost overwhelming. Whether it's a function of the standard-issue Bridgestones, or a reduction in sound deadening, we can't be sure. Transitioning onto smooth concrete or freshly-laid blacktop, it goes away, and the cabin is quite comfortable. But our first order of business in buying a new 370Z would be to requisition some high-performance summer radials to cut back on the sonic assault. Wind noise is remarkably minimal, even with the large side-view mirrors. Brilliantly-done, Nissan! Sunday evening delivered us into San Antonio with empty stomachs and a need for a break, so we consulted the locals and found a phenomenal Mexican restaurant to dine at. We got to experience the 370Z at night coming into Houston, and certainly appreciate the lighting from the HID projectors. No annoying sharp cutoff, perfectly-aimed, and sufficiently bright that no high-beams are needed, even on some of the dark back roads we encountered. Although our final destination was only a couple hours away, it arrived all too soon. This is a car we could definitely own, and its $30K price tag is a clear bargain considering the total package. We'll be testing the 7-speed automatic at a later date, and I'm looking forward to getting some track time in a 370 once it's made available to the public in a few months. If you haven't already made it out to see the new Z, there's a few tour stops remaining, and you can be kept apprised of the schedule at www.followthenissanz.com. Hope to see you there! Special thanks to: Nissan North America, Z enthusiasts all over the country, the staff of Hot Import Nights, Desert Z Association, AZ350Z.com, Glosser.com, Hilton Hotels, Sparco, the staff at Westgate, the New Mexico Highway Patrol... Author: Greg Childs (AZhitman), NICOclub More pics from the trip: [ngg src="galleries" ids="26" display="basic_thumbnail" thumbnail_crop="0"] [post_title] => Nissan 370z Event Coverage [post_excerpt] => For the launch of the 2010 Nissan 370Z, Nissan broke with tradition and decided to bring this car to the masses. In a long-awaited nod to enthusiasts nationwide, the car would be taken to the people, by the people. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-370z-event-coverage [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-11-20 22:57:16 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-11-21 05:57:16 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1729 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
It's a bright sunny day, your on the track doing your best to keep up with the car in front of you, when out of the blue you see a green blur behind you. In a flash it's gone from your rear view mirror and you catch a small glimpse of it as it passes the car you've been working to triumph the whole race. That green blur would be the Z32 300zx time attack of SPL Parts, owned by Kuah, owner of SPL. You will probably see this car coming to a track near you, if you haven't already.
SPL Parts started out as a small side business for Kuah when he first started modifying his Z. After purchasing it, he quickly realized that there were many great parts available from Japan. He started buying a few more parts than he was going to use and sell them for a small profit. This was also a time when very few companies were actually importing parts from Japan. The parts were so well received that it eventually grew into a full-blown business, bringing the birth of SPL. Here it became a niche-market place for parts for the 240sx, 300zx, and the 350Z.
Specializing in suspension components for these cars, SPL has developed a special following of avid fans coveting their commitment to making quality products. Years ago, when they started out, there wasn't many companies specifically focusing on suspension science and adjust-ability, which is far different from today. There are many suspension-specific manufacturers around these days, so how can a small business compete? Kuah would rather improve on quality and functionality than cheap out and make a bigger buck. For example, SPL is on their 3 revision of their outer tie rod ends and their 2nd revision of their beefy tension rods, rear toe arms and traction rods.
The madness of this crazy car started back in 1999, when Kuah purchased a stock, cobalt green, 300zx twin turbo. He slowly began to modify it since that time, using it as a test platform for many of the products he sells. In 2002, he started attending HPDE, high performance driver education events, and focusing on reliability and suspension. By 2005, he started getting more serious about tuning and power, and was able to run 10 sec. 1/4 mile times with low 1.5/ high 1.4 sec 60 ft. times. Not only was this on a road race suspension setup with 2 degrees of negative camber in the rear, but this was still doubling as his daily driver! After more daily driving, HPDEs, and drag strip runs, the motor finally had all it could take and blew up in early 2006 at Texas Motor Speedway where the engine locked up at almost 7,000 RPM running down the straight at speeds nearing 150mph! It was finally figured out that oil starvation was the cause for the motor's demise.
Since the engine had to be rebuilt, the decision was made to go a little crazier with the 300zx and so Kuah picked up a daily driver. The Z was stripped down, gutted, the new engine was completely built and far more powerful than it's predecessor at the same boost level...the car was getting really fast at this point. He bought a rear wing for the car to keep the rear planted at high speeds on the track, and that got him into aerodynamic tuning. At the track, the car gets compliments from racers and officials on how it sounds and being fun to watch, but also hears people expressing their surprise for how well the car runs with it's history of being referred to as a heavy "pig," which Kuah takes as a compliment and believes is a good testament to SPL's suspension tuning.
By late 2006, Kuah knew he had a fast car relative to all the other cars at local HPDEs and decided to take a chance and participate in time attacks, even though all the events were very far away from their home turf of Texas. Unsure if he actually had a competitive car at all, the risk paid off. Since February 2007, which was his first time attack event, the Z had gotten a lot faster. At Texas Motor Speedway in December 2006 the car would lap a 1 minute 51 second lap time, now he estimates the car will probably lap mid to low 1:40s.
The car has now competed in the Redline Time Attack at California Speedway Feb 2007, Redline Time Attack at Buttonwillow April 2007 and the Grassroots Motorsports Ultimate Track Car Challenge July 2007. He placed 2nd place in the RWD modified category at both Redline events at California Speedway and Buttonwillow, and placed 4th place 'shop varsity' at the Grassroots Motorsports track car event. Upcoming mods to the car will include a dogbox transmission with closer gearing and possibly alleviate the current cavitation issues from the stock oil system under hard cornering by adding a dry sump setup, finally allowing the car to rev up to it's full potential from 7000 to 7500. Keep your eyes out for Kuah and his Z, as that "pig" of a Z may be on the top podium at the end of the race!
Story by Dan Vogelsberg, CAO, Nicoclub.com
Photos courtesy of SPL Parts [post_title] => SPL Time Attack 300zx : Nissan Forums Ride of the Month [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => spl-time-attack-300zx-nissan-forums-ride-of-the-month [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 21:54:03 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 04:54:03 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1735 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
2002 Nissan Maxima SE owned by David Honey (Fezzik)
I acquired my maxima on ebay from a dealer who only sold chevy’s. The car only had 25000 miles on it. The car was a trade in from a lady who had twins and got a SUV. I could not pass up the deal so I got another loan and bought this car. Well now I had a 2000 Maxima and a 2002 Max. What was amazing was the car was a 6-speed. I’ll never own an automatic again. I love this car. I’ve done a lot to this car, but keeping it naturally aspirated is my main key. The best modification I feel I’ve done to the car is add the Cattman headers. It’s a completely different car with these on. All that is left is to work on my air fuel ratio which will come in time after I get a wideband. After all this, I’ll move to FI, but that will come a bit later.
I keep my car detailed as much as possible. I’m pretty anal about it and my friends will even say so. They laugh at me as I clean the wheel wells. But hey, the car has to look good. I use Zaino for my polish on the car. I’ve done a lot of detailing and this stuff is by far the best.
Engine / Tranny
6 Speed Manual Trany (with modified clutch pedal engagement)
Short Throw Shifter and Energy Suspension Bushings
Cattman Headers (took about 10 hours to install with the help of Maxhopper and CullenJ76) Gain of 30whp/30tq at around 5600rpms)
2.5” SS B-pipe
Stock Cat and Muffler
Unorthodox Racing Under Drive Pulley
2 degree timing advance
Cattman coilovers (tester) Lowered 2” in the front and 1.5” in the rear
Cattman Front strut tower bar
Cattman/ Progress Rear sway bar
20mm H&R spacers on rear stock wheels.
Chrome Guage Rings
20th anniversary sil plates
Dynamatted all of interior
Bose 6-disc changer with stock subwoofer
Automatic Climate Control
Black Leather Interior
Umnitza DDE angel eyes
Polarg white parking lights
PIAA Extreme white fog lights
Heated Side View Mirrors
[post_title] => 2002 Nissan Maxima:NICOclub Ride of the Month | Fezzik [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2002-nissan-maxima-nicoclub-ride-of-the-month-fezzik [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 21:55:20 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 04:55:20 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1738 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => 1991 Nissan 240SX - Owned by AZlaoBOy Around late 2001 I first discovered drifting when a friend showed me an Option video of some Japanese guys drifting on mountain roads. Thought it was the coolest thing ever so naturally I just had to try it myself. Bought a gray 1992 s13 hatch with extremely bad oxidation – AZ heat is killer on paint – but she drove great.
I was attending a lot out of state drift events because AZ didn’t have anything at the time. In 2004 Hankook Tires started a drift series in Las Vegas, NV. Which I placed top 3 six times and two first place finishes. Have done a few California drift events such as Falken Drift Showoff and Drift Day Comps but ultimately the goal is to complete in Formula D. Currently seeking sponsorship to compete in Formula D events. In the meantime I practice drifting with NASA-AZ out on our local road course monthly.
- 1991 240sx coupe
- 1997 SR20DET motor
- GT28 BB Turbo upgrading to GT3071R
- SARD 850cc injectors
- Apexi Power FC D-Jetro
- Custom intercooler and piping
- Estimated horsepower = 270whp based on old dyno data and new recent upgrades.
- Tanabe Sustec DD
- Tein Tension rod
- Tein Tie rod kit
- Custom adjustable RUCA
- Kaaz 2way LSD
- S13 silvia conversion.
- Msport wide body kit
- Chargespeed hood
- Custom blue paint
- Greddy Water Temp gauge
- Greddy Boost gauge
- Greddy Turbo timer
- Greddy Profet B spec 2 Boost controller
- AEM UEGO Wideband O2 sensor
- Sparco Rev racing seat
- Nardi steering wheel
- NRG quick release
[post_title] => 1991 Nissan 240SX : NICOclub Ride of the Month | AZlaoBOy
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[post_name] => 1991-nissan-240sx-nicoclub-ride-of-the-month-azlaoboy
[post_modified] => 2015-10-23 22:27:35
[post_modified_gmt] => 2015-10-24 05:27:35
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Everything on the car was paid for, worked on, installed by, even painted by me and the help of a few good friends.
Jerry Salvucci's (sluggoZ) 2004.5 Nissan 350z Roadster
In early 2004 I placed an order for a 2004 Z roadster from my local dealership. After waiting more than 16 weeksI received bad news from my dealer that my ZR will not be arriving.The dealer refunded my deposit but now I was stuck with over $200.00 worth of Z stuff that I had previously bought....it's now the end of May, roadster season and I have no roadster.
VEILSIDE V1 Lower Chin SpoilerEVO-R â€˜Z Concept Carâ€™ Silver Front Turn Signals w/Amber Blinking LEDâ€˜s Custom â€˜Satin Silverâ€™ Finish Solid Polyurethane GrilleGREDDY Side Skirts 2K6 OEM LED Taillights2K5 Celica Replica Rear Deck WingCustom 7â€ OEM â€˜Shortyâ€™ AntennaZ Logo etched License Plate Frame w/Z Nut Caps Plus Front & Rear Z EmblemsCustom Fuel Door
iFORGED 2pc.Brushed Aluminum 19â€ Wheels w/Custom OffsetsTOYO Proxes T1-R's 235/35/19-275/30/19HAWK HPS Front Brake Pads
Custom Sun Visor Covers w/OEM Z Logo Brushed Billet Aluminum AC Dash Vent Covers Vinyl â€˜Brushed Aluminumâ€™ Finish Lower Gauge Pods Custom Polished Alloy Aluminum Heel Guard GridsDouble Stitched Italian Leather Shift & E-Brake Boot Custom OEM Z Logo Coin Tray Z Logo Floor & Trunk Mats Z Logo Aluminum Kick Plates
NISMO S-Tune Stainless Cat-Back ExhaustPURE INNOVATIONS VQ35DE Intake Upper Plenum Spacer kit JWT POP-Charger w/Custom Painted Heat Shield MAX 7pc. Mylar Casing Grounding Kit Carbon Fiber Painted Radiator Air GuidePi-THON Anodized â€˜Blackâ€™ Billet Aluminum Forced Induction Hose Locks Pi-THON Z Logo etched Anodized â€˜Blackâ€™ Billet Aluminum Fluid Caps & Covers Polished Stainless Steel Finish Nut/Bolt Kit Air-Brush Smoked Flame Engine Cover Custom Painted Super Black Radiator Brace Wall
Luckily, several days later, my son calls me about a dealer on the internet who has the EXACT car that I wanted.Within 3 days I'm flying down to Nashville, Tennessee, the salesman picks me up at the airport & several hourslater I'm driving back home to Ohio.The best part is that I paid $99.00 over Invoice and you could not find a350ZR anywhere in my home town.WOW....What a fun ride home!!!
For me, I always get a lot of pleasure and satisfaction when modding my ZR.For example, doing the 5/16" plenumspacer kit was very interesting and gratifying even though I had some help from my buddy and his very needed torquewrenches.These tasks give me a feeling of accomplishment and pride in my work and vehicle.
Having "Ultra power galore" is not my modding priorty as I don't need nor want to have the fastest Z around town, letalone the $$$$ involved, but I do pride myself in being innovative & unique like coming up with sevenOne-Of-A-Kind idea tweaks which have been implemented into the ZR.These custom attributes consist of my satinsilver finish solid polyurethane grille; it won't chip, crinkle or crack unless you hit it with a hammer, my customfuel door with an added bling; my 350ZR rear badge, 'R' for roadster (taken from a Fairlady Z badge) the'Z' as they are known in the 350Z community ie, Z for Coupe & ZR for Roadster; my custom vinyl sun visorcovers designed to cover the ugly warning label by using the OEM Z logo which makes it different from other visorcovers...these OEM Z logo's were obtained from running classified ads in various Z sites...I was payijng $10 eachshipped for either a rear 350Z or Fairlady Z badge and the border is made from waxed shoe laces; my custom designaluminum heel guard grids, they cover the entire foot area, with matching OEM foot pedal holes, these grids are securedto my OEM Z logo floor mats for added interior pizazz; my custom design double stitched-Italian black leather shifterboot, e-brake boot and finally my custom carbon fiber radiator shroud painted chrome silver by ZPRESENCE (RIP1976-2007) who was one of the best in the car painting business, he also painted my silver matching JWT POP-Chargerheat shield along with some other engine bay tidbits for additional bling.
Other unique stuff consist of my front EVO-R turn signals with amber blinking LED's.These were built utilizingseperate (custom made) transitor boxes and the wires were all soldered for longevity (does not relays as seen inmost Z enthusiast applications).For the signals, here are the 4 modes to the matrix:
1. OFF - blinkers off, parking lights off.
2. ON with parking lights - no blinkers.
3. ON in unison with blinkers when parking lights are off.
4. Blink alternately with blinkers when parking lights are on.
I'm also a fanatic on detailing, especially owning a black car as it forces me to clean, clean &clean...ultimate perfection is always my main goal but very hard to accomplish.
One of the best feelings to have beside driving the Ohio twisty roads back in 'my neck of the woods' iswatching heads turn on the streets and talking a lot of 'car jive' when parked.
My achievements have given me memorable awards from various car shows these past five summers and once being the BEST OFTHE SHOW, my proudest achievement is coming in First Place in the Peoples Choice Class at the recent ZCCA InternationalConvention held in Cleveland, Ohio just a couple of month's ago.
[post_title] => 2004 Nissan 350Z Roadster: Nissan Forums Ride of the Month - January 2009 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2004-nissan-350z-roadster-nissan-forums-ride-of-the-month-january-2009 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 21:56:41 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 04:56:41 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1745 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
1976 Datsun 280Z - Owned by : oneway
I bought this 1976 Datsun 280Z about 5 years ago. I found it in my neighbor’s barn. It had been parked for over 10 years andhadn’t run in that time. My brother had just bought an 83 280ZX and my neighbor saw it and told me he had one in the barn.I asked if he would sell it and he said I could look at it once he dug it out. A week later he was finally able to get it outand it was beautiful a bone stock untouched 280Z. He said once I got it running we would talk about price. It took me 3 daysto figure out how to get it running. The first thing I found wrong was the fuel pump had frozen up. The fuel tarnished sobadly that it had frozen the pump. After replacing it still would run by it’s self, it had no power to it. He had put a newbattery in it about 5 years earlier and he hooked up the main computer wires wrong. After beating my head against the wall Ifinally got a wiring diagram and found the wire that was hooked up wrong. With-in minutes of hooking it up I had it running.I bought the car for $2000. My first mod to the car was the suspension. From there I did the turbo motor swap. I bought a 82 280ZX donor car from Ohio for $500. I did the swap and drove the car that way for sometime. I did little stuff like the aero bumper and and side skirts to keep me busy. My next major project was the Mega-squirt computer. Man what a difference it made. For any of the NICO guys that have seen her you now that I’m not afraid to open her up. ONEWAY 1976 Datsun 280Z 2+2. Mods:
82 L28ET (turbo) swap
Engine bored 1/2mm over
Side mount, remote oil cooler
Garrett T3/T04B 50 trim
Open waste gate
3in exhaust from turbo back, with flow master muffler
HKS blow-off valve
Front mount intercooler (conquest)
Mega-Squirt and spark fuel injection computer. Stand alone, fully programmable Blitz SBC boost controller
60mm throttle body and JSK adaptor plate
5 speed transmission swap (was 4 speed)
KYB gas struts
Motorsport auto performance lowering springs
4 piston (Toyota 4-runner) front calipers
84 Z31 vented front rotors
15X8 mesh wheels painted to match color of car
Dunlap Qualifers 225/50-R15 all the way around
MSA front aero bumper
MSA side skirts
MSA tinted headlight covers
Shaved rear bumper
[post_title] => 1976 Datsun 280Z: NICOclub Ride of the Month | oneway [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 1976-datsun-280z-nicoclub-ride-of-the-month-oneway [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 21:57:27 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 04:57:27 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1748 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
1990 Infiniti Q45 - Owned by: Andy Sola (Ozzie)
I have a thing for rare cars. I always want to stand out from the crowd, and own something unique.
A highly modified TA-22 Toyota Celica, Ford Laser with turbo engine swap (done by myself and Father-in-law) and 12 second ¼ mile Starion were among the previous rides in my ownership. The rarer, the better! I first spotted the Infiniti at an import dealer, while I was there to check out a car for a friend interstate (A Suzuki Alto Works RS-R). I originally had no intention of buying another car. I had my Starion, and was quite happy with it. When said friend came to visit, and check out the RS-R for himself, he said we should take the Infiniti for a test drive. I didn’t have any money on me for fuel, so he offered to put some in. So off we went……
Once out of earshot of the dealer, with a bit more fuel on board, I nailed the gas to the floor…. And instantly fell in love with the V8 howl that Infiniti had to offer. (This is the part where I blame my friend ENTIRELY for making me buy the Q) Within a week, the Starion was up for sale. In two more weeks, the Q45 became mine.
The Q45 is quite a rare car here in Australia (around 100 registered country wide), and attracts attention from many people with even a slight interest in cars. (If only I had a dime for every time I got asked “What kind of car is that?”…… I would have a lot of dimes!) It came with a hole where the Bose stereo belonged, and a couple of dings/ paint chips here and there, but still commanded attention where-ever it went.
A lot of that has now been fixed, with Kevlar re-enforcing of the front bar, touch up paint followed with cut and polish, and a DVD player coupled to three in-car monitors. (One in the front, two in the rear)
I replaced the Y33 wheels originally on the car, with a set of 18” Apec LDR’s recently. A Jeff Williams strut brace tightened up the front end, making the steering more responsive, with a more positive feel. And of course, my favorite mod, removal of the rear suitcase muffler (Was an Impul item, but still made the car too quiet), and replaced with straight thru pipes, finished off with twin 3” chrome tips.
It’s now looking more like the way I want it. Some 20% endurance metallic window tinting, HID headlight conversion, bodywork/complete respray in the same colour, shift kit, upgraded torque converter, and the possibility of adding a turbo are on the cards for the future.
A big thanks goes at the end of my spiel to the folks frequenting the Q45 forum on NICO, and to Elwesso (Wes) and Mr. Dockers himself (Jesda) for making Q45.org. Without their help and knowledge, my car would probably be rotting in the rain right now.
Recaro A8 front seats (with re-trimmed backing and build-outs for rear monitors)
Replaced all window switch bulbs, rear armrest radio/climate control display, and front climate control buttons with LED’s
Clarion DVD/MP3 head unit and 7” front monitor replacing stock head unit
All interior door, floor, trunk and map lights replaced with white LED’s
Impul 280km/h speedometer
AR Admiration front bar
Impul side skirts and rear bar
Apec LDR 18” wheels
Jeff Williams strut brace to suit active suspension
White LED parking lights, reverse lights, rear plate lights
Colour coded door handles (All chrome was painted when I first got the car)
Impul ECU (raised redline, removed speed cut, more aggressive tune)
Blitz air filter
Removed rear “suitcase” muffler and replaced with straight thru pipes.
Upgraded timing chain guides
[post_title] => 1990 Infiniti Q45 : NICOclub Ride of the Month | ozzie [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 1990-infiniti-q45-nicoclub-ride-of-the-month-ozzie [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 21:58:00 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 04:58:00 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1751 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
1981 Datsun 280sx owned by Isaac Supnet (icice9)
I’ve owned my 280ZX for over 18 years now and when I first bought it I didn’t think I would ever get it to be the way it is now. It's been 5 years now and counting from when I first started to do my restore on the car. Before I started working on her again she pretty much looked like a 20 year old car. Paint faded suspension soft and a bunch of little things that’s was either broken or missing. I’ve always had a picture in my head on how I wanted my Z to look like when I was finished rebuilding it but I never imagined it to come out so beautiful. Even when I had the car before the restoration she was an eye catcher, she had a body kit and a replica 280ZXR rear wing and painted IROC teal blue. But after a few years the look was dated and the paint was flaking off. I did most of the work myself except for the paint and body and the stitching of the interior, pretty much all of the mechanical parts of the car was done by me. It took a little over 3 years to finally get her the way she is now. I still have future plans for her but what I’ve got planed requires a lot more money then what I’ve already invested in her and so far I’m very pleased with what I’ve created.
Bored to 3.0 but other than that its stock
Tokico Blue Struts
Cusco Strut Brace
Energy suspension polyurethane bushings
42mm Modern Motorsports wheel spacers
17” Tenzo SHU 4
Yokahama AVS ES100
Momo comando steering wheel
Momo Shift knob
Recaro seats (reupholstered)
Reupholstered door panels and rear quarter panes
Kenwood Excelon 969 head unit
Kenwood Excelon 1200 wat amp
JL audio 12W6
MB Quart component speakers[post_title] => 1981 Datsun 280zx : NICOclub Ride of the Month | icice9 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 1981-datsun-280zx-nicoclub-ride-of-the-month-icice9 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 21:58:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 04:58:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1755 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
1986 Nissan 300ZX - Owned by : Mark86T
I found this 86 z31 turbo ready to go to the salvage yard 8 years ago. Someone had replaced the timing belt on it incorrectly & a piston & valve met, and stayed together. When I took the engine apart one valve head was impaled into a piston. I bought the car for $500. Blown engine, straight body (needing paint) and a decent interior. I just had to have it. It was my first turbo car. I then sold my 1971 240z of 13 years to finance my new project. I began taking it apart & ordering parts. I did a complete engine rebuild, replaced the springs/shocks/sway bars, painted it black, & put some TSW 17x7 wheels on it. It was my daily driver for 5 years. Then I wanted to race it more so 3 years ago I bought my 96 Q45 & put the Z in the garage for a serious amount of upgrades. 3 years later I had gone through every aspect of the car. It has many 88 turbo parts in it & even some Z32 TT parts in it. I autocross it, take it to track days (road courses) and occasionally drag race it. I also cruise it around town on nice days. It handles phenomenally, it is quite fast (though more tuning is needed right now) and looks awesome! Z31 turbos are the best secret in sports cars out there right now. For the money it costs so much less than almost anything out there to make it fast & handle phenomenally. If something catastrophic ever happens to my Z31 turbo I will certainly buy another one!
T04E turbo w/ceramic BB
-turbo exh. housing/exh. manifolds & turbo elbow coated with SwainTechnologies heat barrier coating
-MSD 6A ignition module
-boost referenced fuel press. regulator
-engine rebuild with 26,000 miles on it
-ported & polished heads/intake & exhaust manifolds
-copper head gaskets
-K&N cone filter
-AEM Air/Fuel gauge & O2 sensor
-Autometer oil press./boost/oil temp./water temp. gauges
-3" HKS exhaust
-3" downpipe & testpipe
-'88 5sp/LSD/fr & rear control arms
-88 front bumper/headlights/hood
-200zr hood scoop
-TBO front lip
-JWT 450HP ECU/injectors/Walbro fuel pump/Cobra MAF
-18x8/18x10 wheels 245/40 & 285/35 AVS Sport (street)
-17x9 & 17x9.5 Enkeis with A032Rs (track)
-stock 16x7s with Hoosiers (autocross)
-urethane bushing everywhere & alum subframe bushings
-Tokico 5way struts/springs
-MSA sway bars
-fr/rear strut tower braces
-roll bar & harnesses
-TT front calipers & 88 vented rear rotors & calipers
-aluminum tranny/diff mounts
-custom short shifter
-Blaupunkt Secure Digital card & CD player (from Lotus Elise)
-2 amps/10 speakers
-Shiro/Recaro seats & Shiro door panels
-Z32TT shift knob
I need to thank my friends who were a huge help with the building of my car - Aaron, AJ, Gus, Justin, & Kam. Without them my car wouldn't be the great Z that it is! [post_title] => 1986 Nissan 300zx : NICOclub Ride of the Month | Mark86T [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 1986-nissan-300zx-nicoclub-ride-of-the-month-mark86t [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 21:59:11 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 04:59:11 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1766 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => [email protected] at IRP Raceway in Indianapolis IN. In the winter of 2005 my thirst for more power grew, and I decided to complete the motor build by porting my own heads, adding a set of Jim Wolf Race Cams, and doing some aftermarket manifolds. This was a very rough period for me because I spent hours and hours (over 50 to be exact) learning how to port heads, it was very dirty as well. I put the car back on the rollers and it put out 540rwhp on pump gas. In mid-June of last year the car ran a best of [email protected] at Route 66 Raceway in Joliet. Shortly after, another clutch took a crap, and I was tired of pulling engines, transmissions, so I decided to stop with the car for a few months. I was debating on going to even bigger tubos and around December/January I finally decided I wanted to go RB. There was really no information out there about the RB26 swap into a Z32. Plenty of guys had done it to older generation Z's, as well as 240sx's. There certainly were no wiring diagrams, no engine mounts, etc. I ordered the motor in Mid-January and received it about a week later. It was spotless, and I even found a new OS Giken Triple Plate clutch behind the motor all for free! Over the next 4 months the car underwent a complete transformation. I ripped the old engine out, parted it out and sold it off in pieces. I completely threw away the old red interior, and began prepping it for the roll cage. The roll cage process took about 2-3 weeks, and after receiving it back, I went to work on doing the custom vinyl that replaces the tweed pieces on the doors. Shortly after the roll cage was complete, I began work fabbing the motor mounts. Since I had discovered that the RB bell housing would bolt on to the Z32 transmission w/out any modification, it made the motor mount process very simple. I was able to utilize the stock 300ZX trans mount, drive shaft, sensors, and shifter. After everything was in place I completely deloomed the RB26 wiring harness and removed all of the AWD electrical components, and shortened the harness by about 4' overall. The car took its first breath of life shortly after and I spent a few weeks straightening everything out to make it road worthy. To date the car is now making 560whp on pump (11.60sec 1/4-mile) and 680whp on race gas. Video: 1. [email protected] in the Z (inside view, pump gas) 2. [email protected] in the Z (outside view, pump gas) 3. 680whp on the Dyno (race gas) 4. 480whp on the Dyno (pump gas) 5. 680whp at the drag strip, broken output shaft [post_title] => Z32: NICOclub Ride of the Month October 2007 - 1990 300ZX [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 1990-300zx-nissan-october-2008 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 22:09:45 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 05:09:45 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1767 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
October 2008: Jonathan Buhler's Classic Datsun 240Z
With the vast import scene growing in Atlanta, a young kid in Dacula, Georgia had a dream to build a nostalgic car from the ground up, along with having the pride of driving something he built himself. For this month's Ride of the month, we bring you Jonathan Buhler's 1973 Datsun 240Z. This 240z started out in California, but after Jonathan's father brought it to Georgia in the 80s, it has truly become a part of his family. With its combination of old and new, this Z car was a special project for both Jonathan and his father Ed.
"I am a musician; this was something that I did without prior experience. I learned a lot about how every part works. Not being mechanically inclined, this was all new to me. And this was mainly a backyard build; almost everything was done in my garage with the help of my dad and friends.
After receiving the car for his fifteenth birthday, Jonathan knew that it was going to take a lot to get this car going. Spending weeks stripping it down to bare bones, the Z was ready to start its transformation. Soda blasting and body work were the first things that needed addressing for Jonathan's Z. Then after a month of bodywork and prep, the car was glazed over with the 350z La Mans Sunset Orange paint. A dash of flake and the car was now on it's way to becoming the stunning image Jonathan had envisioned.
Getting it back into the garage, the inside and underside were treated with undercoating to insure no more rust, and dynamat was lined to keep the rattling to a minimum with the large system going in. Besides new carpet and installing a new Auto Power roll bar and carbon/Kevlar-backed High End Performance seats with five point TeamTech harnesses, the interior stayed original. A NR-G quick release and a Nardi steering wheel were also added but the last thing to go into the interior was the sound system. Custom pods were developed to hold the Polk Momo 61/2 mids and tweeters. Then a custom stealth box was built in the trunk to hold the Polk Momo series 10inch sub that is powered by a 1400 watt 4 channel amp with two separate crossovers.
Jonathan then focused on the motor. Pulling the motor before paint, he was able to take the stock L24 block and began working on it while the car was away. Taking the engine apart, Jonathan had help from a good friend who just happened to be the master mechanic at the local Nissan dealership. "The help from Allen helped me better understand the engine and it was great to have him there to help teach and show me a thing or two." Replacing all of the old worn out engine parts, Jonathan had the head ported and polished but decided to keep the bottom end stock for the time being. "Performance was never the main concern with the engine build, but we did manage to pull some horses out." Upgrading the stock SU carbs and going with an anodized 6-1 MSA header to a Tanabe exhaust helped with the horsepower. A new performance radiator, electronic ignition and many polished parts finished out the engine project. The tranny was refreshed with a Fidanza flywheel and CenterForce clutch, and to top it off the rear end was replaced with a R200 LSD.
Keeping the era-specific motor wasn't the only classy or nostalgic thing Jonathan did; on the outside you'll notice the era-specific Rota RB wheels that match the look of the OG Watanabes. Nothing beats having an old school car with old school wheels. Also on the outside you'll notice the true Japanese temporary tag given to Jonathan by a good friend who happens to be the owner of the 71 skyline which graces the NICOclub poster. From the outside in, Jonathan has been very particular in choosing his parts, especially with the suspension. Arizona Z Car billet aluminum front and rear control arms can be seen and felt and the Cusco strut tower defiantly helps with the stiffness. All new bushings, tension rods, and sway bars with the new eibach springs and tokico struts round out the suspension mods.
"I am so thankful for the all the help from my dad, friends, my uncle and High End Performance." Like most of us, his car project has no end and plans on upgrading to ITBs and stroking to a full 3 liters. With all the blood, sweat and tears, Jonathan Buhler's Datsun is one 240Z you can really appreciate. [post_title] => 1973 Datsun 240z - NICOclub Ride of the Month October 2008 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 1973-datsun-240z-october-2008 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 22:09:54 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 05:09:54 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1768 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
2004 Nissan 350Z - Owned by : Palmerwmd
September's Ride of the Month is Fred's , aka Palmerwmd's, 2004 Nissan 350Z. It is an Enthusiast Trim, 6 Speed Model.
Fred bought his car in September 04, a mere 10 weeks after the cars assembly date and sold his beloved Infiniti Q45t and SR'ed S13 (both to Nico Members) to make this car a reality for him.
Fred's 350Z is Daytona Blue and was produced in the last few weeks of the 2004 production run. As a late 04 , also known as 2004.5's, it has a couple of things early 04's and 03's don't have. An example is the strengthened Manual Transmission vs. earlier Models.
Fred has been modding the car within a couple of months of purchasing it, despite originally vowing to leave it bone stock for years to come.
On the 30th of August, after the installation of the new Greddy blowoff valve, which also addressed a previously unknown boost leak, he had another dyno run performed and the results stand at a repeatable and impressive 411 whp!
He hopes to add Project Mu Brake Pads and Steel braided brake lines to the car, as soon as they become available here for his Nissan. A fuel system upgrade is also definitely in his immediate future he says.
When pressed, he also wont deny that he may up pulleys to an 11 psi Pulley and is currently mulling an engine internals build-up ,to support even higher PSI Pulleys.
We like where he has taken his car and are curious to see how much further our friend will take this already impressive Z.
[post_title] => 2004 Nissan 350Z - NICOclub Ride of the Month September 2005 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2004-nissan-350z-nicoclub-ride-of-the-month-palmerwmd [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 22:10:03 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 05:10:03 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1803 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_content] =>
Staff Bio's >> Jerry (nsrZ32)
I've been a Nissan enthusiast for as long as I can remember. Been into Z cars for years and bought my first Nissan in 1999. I currently have six Nissans in my collection.
They are: 1971 Datsun 521 Pickup 1978 Datsun 280Z 1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo 1998 Nissan Sentra SE 2002 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE 2007 Nissan Versa 1.8 S
Everyone seems to know me for my Z32 as its become kind of famous over the years. It has won major shows such as Hot Import Nights and has been featured on NICO as ride of the month. Also, I plan to pick up a 350Z in 2007 to add to the family.
I'm 28 years old and from Cleveland Ohio. I work at a Nissan dealership as a factory technican. I attended Cleveland State University and Ohio Technical College. My fiance Stephanie is also into cars, has a 1997 Nissan 240sx, and is a member on NICO. We enjoy going to car shows, talking cars online, working on them, etc. If you ever need any help or have any questions don't hesitate to ask! [post_title] => NICOclub Staff - nsrZ32 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nicoclub-staff-nsrz32 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-02-16 22:15:21 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-02-17 05:15:21 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1831 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_content] =>
Staff Bio's >> Syed Zaeem Hosain aka "Z" (szhosain)
Infiniti M35/45 Forum Moderator
Infiniti General Moderator
General Chat Moderator
Folks, I am not as knowledgeable about cars as most (okay ... almost all) of the other Moderators at NICO. My educational background is in Semiconductor Physics and Computer Engineering (thesis in college was in the esoteric field of micro-miniature sensor technology processes - way ahead of its time), and my current work is in the wireless cellular industry. I head up the Engineering and Technology department of a company in San Jose, California, that operates a specialized North American cellular network for data telemetry. And, yes, there is a connection to cars ... some of our customers make and sell products that are used for theft-recovery, vehicle asset management and commercial truck fleet tracking. All using our data network!
Yeah, I know the very basics about cars and some of their inner workings, but the detailed stuff is pretty much a mystery to me! I am continually in awe of the knowledge and expertise of the other folks and Moderators at NICO. Of course, I do enjoy reading about cars, so I have been doing what I can, when I can, to bring myself up to speed. My current fascination is with tires and tire technology ... this is, quite literally, where it all happens! Performance and engines and gearing and speed and acceleration numbers, etc., are meaningless if the tires do not match the specifications and requirements!
Regardless, being one of the older members (if not the oldest!) at NICO, I have many years and miles of experience driving cars. I have never modded any of my cars, but have taken pride in making sure that the cars I have owned are well-maintained and work as well as possible. Usually, this means getting other people to fix things for me, and doing crazy (by some standards) early maintenance measures when I buy cars!
As a long-time Infiniti vehicle owner (almost nineteen years now) and long-time NICO member, I have the privilege of moderating the NICO M35/45 Forum and helping out in a few others. Please come by and check out the M Forum and offer any suggestions that would help make it a better place for people to hang out in.
Below is a list of the cars I have owned and driven (or recollect being in … in the case of the first few listed here that my Dad actually owned). Sorry ... this is going to be long! I hope you enjoy reading this list.
1959 Opel Rekord
. My Dad owned this one. Listed here due to the following personal connection to me: In 1961, I was about five years old when I almost killed myself in this car. Sitting in the rear seat (no seat belt or child car seats in those days), I reached around and opened the front passenger door (of a two door car!) to climb out and get to the front seat ‘cause I wanted to be with my Mom and Dad. While the car was in motion! My Mom, sitting in the front passenger seat, caught me just in time before I fell out and died! Eek!
1964 Ford Consul Cortina
. Also my Dad's car. I had my first minor accident in this car some years after the purchase. I was messing around in it at the age of 11 and it rolled backwards down the sloping driveway of our house and hit a metal gate - broke a tail-light!
1966 VW Beetle
. A “temporary” car that my Dad bought when we were moving from one part of the country to another when I was 10 years old, and our other cars (including the Ford above) were still in shipment. I did not drive this one, but I remember the curiosity and sense of complete "you are kidding me!" feeling that I had, upon finding out that the engine was in the rear! Wow ... what a concept! I think my interest in cars and driving, was from this experience.
1967 Toyota Corona
. Actually, this and the next one also belonged to my Dad and I just drove them ... well before I was of legal age to do so (I was about 13 or 14 years old when I first started driving)! Of course, I did not have a license since I was underage. I drove for three or four years without a license and would have been in serious trouble if I had been stopped for any reason.
1969 Toyota Corona
. This, and the above, were basic early Japanese small/medium-sized sedans. Reliable, economic and yet loads of fun transportation. Four cylinder, 1.5 liter engines (overseas markets ... I think the same car in the US had a bigger engine). All manual transmission - three forward gears on the column. The Corona was the predecessor to the larger Toyota Crown and the current-gen Toyota Avalon (as sold in the US).
1973 Toyota Corolla
. My first car that I bought, although my Mom helped with the cost. A two-door, four-seat, four-door, manual transmission pocket rocket! Built for the non-American market, it was powered by a four-cylinder 1.4 liter engine generating 94 horse-power, and weighed next to nothing compared to American cars! Accelerated quite smartly as a result. I left it behind for my Mom when I moved to the US in 1974 to go to college here.
1978 Ford Fiesta
. My first car in the US, that I bought right out of college (only thing I could afford!) One of the best econoboxes of its time. Built by Ford in Europe, it looked like the original VW Rabbit. The car ran well, but I sold mine after it had its third accident ... none of which were my fault (I wasn't even in the car in two of them!) - I swear its bright orange color attracted trouble! The third time was when the top three or four feet of a tree landed on the car in high winds when I was visiting some college buddies at my old apartment. Luckily, there was no serious damage and I traded it in one or two weeks later!
1980 Mazda RX-7
. A fun, high-revving, two-door, two-seater, that was an absolutely blast to drive. Underpowered by today's standards, it was just what I needed after having owned the econoboxes. The Wankel engine was smo-o-o-o-th! I did not have the rotor tip problems and oil leaks that others have complained about. I wish I had kept this car!
1983 VW Rabbit GTI
. A two-door, four-seater that I bought when the insurance on my RX-7 shot up 50% (for no reason that I could tell!) and I sold the RX-7 since I could not afford it anymore. My stupid mistake! I had been living in Massachusetts till 1980 and was used to that states controlled insurance costs. When I moved to New Hampshire in 1980, the insurance company raised my rates in 1983, completely arbitrarily, and silly me did not realize that I could have switched to another company. Oh, well.
1985 Nissan 300ZX Turbo
. I went back to a two-seater 'cause I hated the Rabbit! This was my first Nissan and I absolutely loved it. An awesome car for its time - I loved its looks (not the later ones from 1987 though, with their bulging wheel wells and overly rounded shape). The car had a wonderfully slick five-speed manual transmission, super comfortable inside, with leather seats (first for me) and exceptional (for its time) stereo. I drove this car from New Hampshire to Mississippi (where I worked for a year in 1988) and then across the country to California in 1989 when I moved here. I kept this car for about six years, finally selling it in later 1991, some months after I bought a Q45.
1986 Mazda 626 GT Turbo
. Four-cylinder, turbocharged, 2.0 L engine. Two-door, four-seater. I really liked this car, although it had quite a bit of torque steer if you stomped on it hard. This was my commute vehicle for work, including in winter since I did not want to drive my Z in the snow in New Hampshire. I left it behind in Massachusetts with a friend in 1988 when I moved to Mississippi, but drove it out later to California. Also sold in 1991 when I bought the Q45.
1991 Infiniti Q45
. Now this was a surprise purchase for me in many ways. I had moved to California in early 1989 and was planning to buy a 1991 Nissan 300 ZX Twin-Turbo … and just happened to drive by an Infiniti dealer in March of 1991. Just for the heck of it, I test drove the Q45 and I was absolutely hooked. A four-door sedan, that had the same power as the Z, and it was super comfortable inside too! The 39k MSRP was more than I wanted to spend, but the dealer made me a deal I could not refuse ... I got the car for the list price of a 300ZX TT. Found out later why - story in itself! Plus, this was the first automatic I had ever bought - another surprise since I was used to manuals. I learned what happens when you try to "press the clutch in with the left foot and end up actually mashing in the brake pedal … hard". Eek! I had some very high-speed experiences in this car (see thread on Infiniti Speeding stories).
1995 Infiniti Q45
. Bought in July of 1998 ... it was a lease return and the *first* time I had purchased a used car. Big mistake! The previous owner had clearly not looked after it well. Transmission went out at 104k miles, although everything else was running fine. When it looked like the new transmission was in trouble (actually was *not* a problem), my wife told me to get a new car! Sure, honey! :) So, in September of 1998, we went in to get a G35 and made the "mistake" of driving the 2003 Infiniti M45 – see below for the outcome.
1997 Acura 2.2 CL
. Actually, this is my wife's car that we bought in August of 1996, but I drive it a bit more than I would like. I have always thought that this four-cylinder, 2.2 Liter, 145HP engine is just too underpowered for the car. But, my wife loved the unique looks and so she went for it. I have to admit that in the thirteen+ years that we have owned this car, it has not given us any major trouble at all – the worst thing has been the radiator developing a leak and needing replacement. Close to being the least costly car I have ever owned!
2003 Infiniti M45
. My current daily driver - bought in Sept of 2003. I love the power, the handling (albeit no match for the current-gen 2006+ M45) and the inside luxury comforts. I am a bit disappointed by a few things with this car (for example, it is the first car where I have had to add oil between regular changes … my previous two Infiniti Q45’s did not use a drop of oil), but I plan to keep this car for as long as I can!
Thanks for reading this long story!
[post_title] => NICOclub Staff - szhosain
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On paper, the 2007 Infiniti FX45 and the 2007 Mercedes-Benz M-Class are comparable luxury SUVs. In use, the FX45 has the sport and the utility.
Most 240sx owners (s13 in particular) have probably noticed that their "rear seat" is more of a shelf suited for random objects than people. Thanks for the insurance discount, Nissan, but if its all the same to you, we will just cut out the 25 lbs of unnecessary weight.
Time: 1-2 hours
- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm socket wrenches, ratchet and extension
1. Remove trunk carpet. A metal bracket with screws holds the carpet onto the rear seats.
2. the bottom of the rear seat has a latch on both left and right side. Pull both at the same time to remove the lower part of the seat.
3. There is a black padding (just pick it up) underneath once the lower seat has been removed.
4. Theres a hinge at both top corners of the upper rear seat. Pull them and the upper seat will fold down.
5. With the upper seat folded down, use either a screw driver or a 10/12mm socket and remove 2 screw bolts on both ends.
6. Now that the rear seats are removed. Its time to take out the brackets and seatbelts. Do this for the other side using I believe a 12mm or 14 mm socket.
7. Now pull on the seatbelt cover for both sides to pop it out and show the bolts.
8. Remove the bolt with a 14mm socket and pull then down for the small hook on the other end.
9. Now remove the brackets. Its near the window so be careful.
Now you can sell them, throw them away, or my personal favorite - use them as seats in your house. [post_title] => 240sx rear seat and belt removal guide [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => mrzabalas-rear-seat-and-belt-removal-guide [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-02-20 02:04:50 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-02-20 09:04:50 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 4919 [post_author] => 5 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 20:23:43 [post_content] => Overview: Spray can paint jobs (affectioanately known by car guys as "rattlecan" paint) have gained a negative reputation in recent years, as it seems any 16-year-old kid is all-too-eager to ruin his perfect factory paint in the hopes of giving his car that "street racer" look. However, for those of us who have mismatched panels, badly oxidized paint, etc... it can be a cheap temporary alternative to spending all your project budget on the real thing. Depending on your skill level and patience, you can come out with results that rival an inexpensive professional paint job. Difficulty: 2 to 3 Time: 48 hours Cost: $50-$100 Tools: electric palm sander (optional) Materials: - primer of your choice (5-8 cans) - paint of your choice (10-15 cans) - sandpaper in various grits: 220, 400, 800, 1000+ - masking tape and newspaper - spray bottle of water - car wash soap - grease-cutting dish soap - latex gloves (for keeping oil from your skin off of the surface) Procedure: Begin by thoroughly washing your car with the car soap and allowing it to dry. before pic: Techniques: Sanding out imperfections - You should use a diagonal criss-cross pattern to avoid sanding in any imperfections as opposed to removing them. For wet sanding, make sure you use light pressure, and let the sand paper do the work or you will wind up creating gouges. Use a circular motion, otherwise it will create visible lines in the paint. Maintain a wet surface - Having someone lightly mist the area while you;re working will make the job go smoother. Preparation: Everything you can take off of your car should be taken off. This includes all lights, trim and mirrors. The more you remove, the better the finished product will look! Start sanding - If you can see it and plan on painting it, you'd better sand it. I sanded with 220-grit to scuff the car up and get rid of some small defects in the paint. This is what you want your car to look like before you begin primering: You're not ready to paint just yet. Wash all the dust off of it again, and then degrease the car with the dish soap. You can also use a very diluted mix of Simple Green or some other industrial chemical, but make sure to rinse VERY thoroughly! Start primering your car, light coats will produce the best results. Paint only one panel at a time. After you get the car completely covered in primer and it has had sufficient time to dry, wet sand with 400 grit cloth-backed sandpaper. Now wash, dry, degrease, dry again. if you feel the need to put another coat of primer on, or you have a few more small dings you are working out of your paint, you can. If you wet sanded through the primer to the original paint again, you should apply another coat of primer, and repeat the above sanding step. After the car is primered, mask off all of the areas you DON'T want paint on. Taking some extra time during this step will save you a lot of headache later. BE THOROUGH AND PRECISE! I like to use good-quality masking tape from 3M, using a small plastic piece to "burnish" the edges of the tape for best adhesion. You can also use an Xacto knife for fine detailed masking. Painting: Now you can begin painting. Remember the one panel at a time mantra, it still applies. Ensure you are overlapping your spray by half as well. As you start it should look something like this: Continue to cover the entire car until you have one complete coat of flat black. Let it dry, and then wet sand with 400 grit again. Clean, degrease, dry and apply another coat. This time, wet sand with 800 grit. Clean, degrease, dry and then do it all again, wet sanding with 1000 grit. Your finished project will look something like this if you have taken the time to clean and prepare your car for paint properly: When you paint it is a good idea to have some sort of ventilation system to pull the dust and paint that isn't on the car out of the "paint booth" - Something even as simple as this will help a lot. This is what my car looked like in the sun the week after we painted it: This is what it looks like now, after almost a year in the sun and dirt. There should be no fading with this paint if applied properly. Remember, if you are looking for a show room quality, or shiny paint job, rattle can is probably not for you. But if you are like I was and had a car that was 2 different colors of bad paint, this might be for you. Total cost was around 50-60 dollars over a weekend. I hope this helps someone fall in love with the look of their car again! [post_title] => Flat Black or Bust: DIY Guide to a Successful Rattle-Can Paint Job [post_excerpt] => Rattlecan paint jobs have gained a negative reputation in recent years as it seems any 16-year-old kid is all-too-eager to ruin his perfect factory paint in the hopes of giving his car that "street racer" look. For those of us who have mismatched panels, badly oxidized paint, etc... it can be a cheap temporary alternative to spending all your project budget on the real thing. Depending on your skill level and patience, you can come out with results that rival the real thing. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => flat-black-or-bust-sdwyz14s-guide-to-rattle-can-paintjob [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 23:24:14 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 06:24:14 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 4941 [post_author] => 5 [post_date] => 2002-12-10 13:23:43 [post_date_gmt] => 2002-12-10 20:23:43 [post_content] =>
Overview: The 300ZX calipers are a popular upgrade from the 240sx, and most of the time, the calipers we get are used and worn... Not much of an upgrade if they don't work properly, right? For the purposes of this article, we're going to rebuild some aluminum 30mm Z32 calipers.The 26mm calipers can be rebuilt using the same process. Tools: - socket wrenches - breaker bar Materials: - brake cleaner Remove clip from 2 pins in the back. Pins that are holding pads will slide out from the front. Pads, clips and pins will come out easy and they will look like this. If you just want to replace worn out or torn boots, you don't need to go further. Just remove boots, clean up and reinstall new boots, clips and pins that are included in most rebuilding kit. If you want to powder coat your calipers, move on!!! I used breaker bar to remove big 4 bolts in the back. I stepped on the caliper and did this. They were bolted on pretty tight. Then remove 'O' clips and rubber boots that protect the pistons. You will also see 2 small 'O' rings between two halves. Everything is out except pistons in below picture. Now, it's time to remove the pistons. I spoke with 4 different powder coating shops and all of them asked me to take the pistons out, so I can tell they don't want to powder coat calipers with pistons in. Front half has 2 holes and the back has 3 holes. One on the back is for the brake line. You block holes and blow air in using air compressor. I used hand held 2HP compressor and it worked just fine. Get a trash can and put some newspaper and towel, so piston won't get damaged. They will come out loud and fast. One piston will come out first, so use vice to hold that one and pop the other one. You really have to be careful here. You don't want to get hurt. Picture of back half. There are rubber seals in the middle of the cylinders, so don't forget to take them out. Be careful and don't make any scratches on the cylinder wall. I cleaned them up really good and shipped these 8 pieces to powder coating shop. Came back like this one week later. This is the kit that I got from one of our Nissan OEM parts suppliers. This kit should be universal for all z32 front calipers. I had a used set of rear calipers, but they were in very good condition, so I didn't buy a kit for the rear. New pistons, seals, boots, clips and 'O' rings... This is the seal that goes in the middle of the cylinder. Push the pistons back in like this. Put small 'O' rings between 2 halves. Okay, here's the deal. These small 'O' rings were not included in the kit. I saw someone bought them from ACE Hardware store though. I just reused old ones. They seemed to be okay. You need to lubricate all the rubber parts. Install new rubber boots, big 'O' clips and 4 bolts to complete. Comments or questions? Please follow this link: How to rebuild 300ZX calipers [post_title] => Z32: How to Rebuild Brake Calipers [post_excerpt] => A great article on how to rebuild your 300ZX (Z32) brake calipers. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => rebuilding-300zx-z32-calipers [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:46:12 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:46:12 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 4972 [post_author] => 5 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 20:23:43 [post_content] => by Clawhammer Overview: While it is common knowledge that the S-Chassis cars and the Z32 share certain suspension components, it may be unclear as to what benefits swapping such pieces can provide. Z32 uprights are made from aluminum and therefore weight 7-8 lbs. less (unsprung weight) than their S13 counterparts. This is complementary to the Z-32 5-lug swap, but if you would like to retain your 4 lug setup for some reason, swap your hubs over to the new uprights before you begin. Difficulty: *** Time: 2-4 hours Cost: $50-$100 Tools: -Impact wrench and sockets in 36, 27, 22, 19, 17, 12mm -Ratchet -Combo wrenches in 22 and 19mm -Blow torch -Liquid Wrench (or equivalent) -Floor jack and stands Materials: -Aluminum Z32 uprights -Conical ball joint seats (part #40173-33P00) and hardware (Hex Cap Screws, M12 1.25 x 80) -Cotter pins (2x 3/32 x 1 (upright and control arm connection) and 2x 3/16 x 1-3/4 (axle nut) Procedure: ==Collecting Your Parts== Junkyard If you're going to a junkyard or something, save yourself some trouble and take the Z32 lower control arms too. If you don't, at least make sure you get the conical ball joint seats off the ball joint on the control arm. In fact, my side by side comparison (sorry I don't have a pic) showed that the S13 and Z32 control arms are the same so you could just bolt the whole thing in and skip a couple of steps. I'll explain that later. Also grab the hardware that mounts the Z32 strut to the upright. Here's a picture of exactly what to look for as far as the ball joint seat being stuck to the control arm: Z32 Fork type lower strut mount Somehow you're going to need the Z32 fork type rear lower mount strut. Idealy you have a coil over set up that the manufacturer also produces for the Z32 that you can obtain and put on. I've read it's possible to modify a Z32 shock to make it fit, but I didn't take that route, and I wouldn't recommend or consider doing this swap if you're not going with a coil over suspension. In the side by side comparison above you can see the different mounting style for the struts on the uprights. The difference: ==Getting to Work== Begin by removing all of the unnecessary parts from your uprights. If you obtained yours like this, skip ahead. If not, you will be removing the brake shield (27mm nut - may be stuck!) and the ring seal. Below is a closeup of the seal installed and a comparison with an S-Chassis upright. Chock the front wheels and support the rear of the car securely on jackstands, or support the whole car if you prefer. Remove the existing caliper and rotor. Remove the hub by pulling the cotter pin and the 36mm axle nut. Remove your strut by pulling the 19mm nut and bolt holding it to the S13 upright, then the 2x 12mm nuts in the trunk area. Unbolt the iron upright by pulling all of the 19mm bolts and knocking it clear of the control arm (its pressed on). Then remove the 2x 19mm bolts holding the control arm in and pull them out. Now disconnect the torsion bar (goes through the hole in the right of the pic). Once you have the upright and control arm unbolted, pull the entire setup off the axle. If it's stuck pull harder or find something to pry with. Now that you have the entire assembly off remove the four bolts on the back holding the hub on and move the hub and brake splash shield over to the Z32 upright. If you're using the Z32 control arm bolt the whole assembly back in the way it came out. If you're going to reuse yours, then you need to get it off the 240 upright. Undo the nut (22mm) holding it to the upright but don't remove the nut. Get it all the way to the end of the bolt so that it's even with the end (flush) and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer to knock it out. After you go through this you'll appreciate what those steel inserts on the Z32 upright do for you. Anyway once you get your control arm off attach it to your Z32 upright and then put the entire assembly back in. Reconnect all the bolts, put everything back together (don't forget your cotter pins), and move to the other side and repeat. When you're all done go get an alignment. [post_title] => Z32 Rear Uprights Install [post_excerpt] => While it is common knowledge that the S-Chassis cars and the Z32 share certain suspension components, it may be unclear as to what benefits swapping such pieces can provide. Z32 uprights are made from aluminum and therefore weight 7-8 lbs. less (unsprung weight) than their S13 counterparts... [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => z32-rear-uprights-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-12 22:36:59 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-13 05:36:59 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 4984 [post_author] => 5 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 20:23:43 [post_content] => by babowc
OEM S13 seats suck. Whether you're interested in comfort for the daily commute, flashy design for shows, or more support and holding ability, you can be assured almost any other seat can do it better. Z33 seats seem to be an excellent alternative, and thanks to babowc you should be able to adapt them to fit your car!
Time: 4-6 hours
- angle grinder
- electric drill
- socket wrench with a 14mm and 10mm socket.
- flathead screwdriver
- tape measure
- an extra set of all four seat brackets from either S13 or S14. Seats with the brackets removed will not be usable! Go pick up a junk seat and take the brackets!
- drill bits and lube
First, lay the two seats down on a table or some sort.
Take a good look at the bottom side of the two seats, you will recognize an immediate difference, where as the stock seat's brackets are much lower than the Z33 seats.
==Removing the Brackets==
Take the stock seat brackets off.
I do not have the during-process pics, but you will need to drill out the spot-welds on the brackets and the large rivet (shown in red) to remove the brackets.
Repeat the process for the z33 seats.
To easily remove the brackets without damaging them after the rivet and the spot welds have been drilled/ground out, use your flathead and tap it into the crevice where the bracket meets the rail. It will require some force!
***You do not need to drill out the Left (driver's side door) side rear bracket, but I have and had to add washers and a longer bolt to make the seat level.***
It'll take some time to get these all out and will be a messy process.
If you care about your old brackets, try to keep it clean, but I got fed up and took the angle grinder on everything and got them off, keep in mind however, these are not re-usable now!
I used duct-tape to mock-up the process and eventually welded them together.
I measured the distance between the stock S-chassis brackets and mocked it up on the Z33 seat accordingly. On the S-chassis right side bracket, the distance between the center of two holes were around 41.75cm for the right side (closer to the tranny tunnel when installed) and 42.75cm for the left side (closer to the door when installed).
Last step would be to weld these brackets onto the Z33's existing rail.
I didn't take any pictures during nor after the welds.
I used a Flux-core welder and it looked like ****, but who cares? its going under the seat!
After 30 minutes of welding, I cooled them off and installed it in the car.
As soon as I installed the seats, I realized I had made a mistake on the Driver's side Rear left side bracket.
I should've kept it! As well, iI should've test fitted it in the car!
Anyhow, heres the aftermath, I couldn't install the front left bracket correctly and just stuck a 2x8 under there and called it a day.
I know its very dangerous, but it'll work until I take the seats off again and re-do the left side brackets!
I'll post another how-to after I permanently fix the brackets on the left side!
[post_title] => Adapting Z33 Seats for S-Chassis [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => adapting-z33-seats-for-s-chassis [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 23:33:06 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 06:33:06 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 5012 [post_author] => 5 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 20:23:43 [post_content] => by SideWays=smiles
Let’s start off with a little background information. As I am sure most of you know, the 240SX, like its Japanese counterpart, uses McPherson strut front suspension. The lower control arms (LCA) span the distance between the bottom of the knuckles and the chassis itself. They control the knuckles' up-and-down and side-to-side movement. Because of their singular chassis attachment points, the LCAs is incapable of keeping the wheels from moving forward or backwards - enter the tension control rod.
It is the tension control (TC) rods that keep the front wheels stable during cornering and braking while allowing the suspension to move up and down. Each TC rod is rigidly attached to the LCA with 2 bolts while its other side is attached to a bracket by a large rubber bushing. These bushings deteriorate over time, allowing unwanted movement, extra stress on front end components, and vagueness in steering and braking. The bracket is bolted to the radiator core support and frame rails. These brackets are rather flimsy they flex easily, and when coupled with sticky tires and stiff suspension, lack the rigidity to properly support the TC rods. For many years the only solution was to replace these brackets entirely with a Nismo power brace; the Nismo unit adds additional gussets and a cross bar. The power brace - however well designed - is expensive. I, for one, have always thought there should be a cheaper and more effective solution.
Here is what the brace's creator had to say about the inspiration behind them.
Quote, originally posted by Jonnie Fraz »
Well truly I wanted an easier way to bolt in a Tension arm brace than the Nismo, but the best way to install this one is to take out the brackets. It is possible to do it in the car, but it is way easier if you pull them.
The main reason I came up with the S13 brace, and then the S14, was this is a very flexible part of the car. These brackets can be flexed just by hand. As you know the tension control arms keep the bottom of the strut from moving for and aft. This is why any bracing helps with braking feel. Also during cornering an amazing amount of flex can be felt. By tying the two brackets together drivers have also experienced better turn in.
I liked the way the Nismo was designed, except I thought that it left a little flex in that the cross bar has to be so far forward. This is because where the power steering bracket bolts to the tension arm bracket. This is why I used the four point triangulated mounting. This stiffened up the brackets on the back half.
To order one of your own for the S13 or S14, check out Jonnie in the fabricators' marketplace here, S14 Tension Rod Brace. This brace is meant to be installed with the TC rod brackets still in the car, though for a few reasons I chose to remove mine for installation (but I will explain the installation process if the brackets are left in the car, just keep reading).
Time: 3-5 hours
- Brace ([url=http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=266824]Direct through Jonnie Fraz[/ur])
- anti-sieze compound
- Rust Penetrant
- Floor Jack
- Jack stands
- Metric socket set, including 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 21mm
- Metric wrench set, including 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 21mm
- Ratchet, to match your sockets
- Misc. extensions to match your ratchet
- Phillips and standard screw drivers
- 17mm 3/8 swivel socket (needed if you choose to install the brace without removing the TC rod brackets from the car, or if you have bushing-style tension rods)
- Assorted drill bits
1. Alrighty, let's get down to business. Grab your trusty dusty floor jack and lift the front end of the car as high as you can. The higher you lift it, the less claustrophobic you will feel while lying under the car. Before diving under, make sure you support the total weight of the vehicle using a set of quality jack stands, if you get crushed, you won’t ever get to test your new parts.
2. With the car safely in the air, remove the plastic splash shield from the underside of the car and set it aside, all my bolts broke a long time ago, so mine is help up by zip ties.
3. With the splash shield out of the way, you can get a good view of the task at hand. Its time to grab your can of rust penetrant. This will help prevent broken bolts, and believe me, if you life in a place where rust is an issue, it will make getting things apart easier. If you are only installing the brace, you only need to spray the nuts that hold the TC rods in the brackets. For the rest of you, spray everything, most important are the bolts holding the rear of the brackets to the frame rails, the easiest way to spray the threads is to use a straw to aim the spray through the small holes on the side of the frame rail near the bolts. You may not be able to get them perfectly, so just hose them the best you can then let them soak for a few minutes.
Using a 17mm wrench and socket, remove the bolts attaching the TC rods to the brackets. If you're just installing the brace on the car, skip to section nine. If you are replacing your TC rods along with the brace, also remove the two bolts holding each tension rod to its respective LCA. Now if you are lucky, the bolts holding the tension rod to the bracket will come out easily. If you are like me however, the bolt will have seized to the inner bushing sleeve. It may take a little hammering, but for most of you the bolts should come out. Remove the TC rods from the car. Make sure to mark which side the TC rods came from, they should be reinstalled on the same side.
5. With the TC rods out of the way, you can now gain access to the two bolts and two nuts that hold the sway bar support bushings to the tension rod brackets. Remove them using a 14mm socket and extension. Once the sway bar is loose allow it to swing down and hang.
6. Using a 10mm socket or wrench, remove the too bolts holding the power steering pressure hose to the bracket. Just let it hang there, it shouldn’t be in the way.
7. With everything out the way, you can now remove the eight remaining bolts holding the tension rod brackets in the car, six are 17mm and two are 14mm.
8. If you run into the same issue I did with the TC rod bolts being seized, you will have a difficult time removing the rear bolts holding the brackets to the frame rails - the TC rods block access to the bolts. If you are creative with a 17mm wrench you can break the bolts loose. You could also use a swivel socket, if you have access to one.
The brackets should now be free from the car.
9. Before you can go bolting everything together, its time to bust out the drill. Now don’t go crazy and start punching holes all over, we need to mock up the brace. If you are doing this outside the car, lay the tension rod brackets on the floor or workbench just like they would be if they were still in the car. If you are still in the car, slide the brace up into its location. You should be able to set it on the lip on the tension rod brackets - see below for orientation information.
10. If you look closely at the endplates on the brace, you will notice that the edges are beveled on one side of each plate. This is to allow the brace to sit flush with the lip on the brackets. Using an awl or small screwdriver, scratch two marks into the endplates showing where the center of the bolt hole is. Lay the brace between the brackets, remember - bevel towards the bend. Using the bolts for the tension rods, attach the rear portion of the brace to the brackets. Don’t torque the crap out of them, just snug them up. Now transfer the marks you made on the brace ends to the brackets themselves. This will be the map that tells you where to drill. With the marks made, remove the brace from the brackets and extend your marks until they meet.
11. Place a small punch or Phillips head screwdriver on the spot where you are supposed to drill, tap it with a hammer to create a small indentation, this will keep your drill bit from walking around. Starting with a nice small bit, think 1/8”, drill a pilot hole in each, and then work your way up to larger bits until the hole is large enough for the bolt to pass through easily, IIRC my last bit was a 5/8”. That’s it, no more drilling, unless that is if you didn’t drill in the correct spot.
12. With the holes drilled, refit the brace using the tension rod bolts. Now using the bolts supplied with the brace, attach the front of the brace to the brackets - don’t worry about the crush sleeves, remember we’re just test fitting. If you put your holes in right place, the bolts should go in easily and everything should line up. If not, you will need to adjust the holes slightly so everything fits.
13. Now if you ran into the same issue that I did where the TC rod bolts are seized, you will need to get them free before continuing. It was getting late and I was cold and tired, so I decided to just take them to work with me where I have all my air tools and acetylene torch. After getting creative with my vice grips, air hammer, and impact wrench, I was able to free the bolt without damaging it. Again, if you are not replacing the tension rods, make sure to mark which side they came from. If you damage the tension rod bolt, you will need to source a suitable replacement from Nissan, don’t just use any bolt, it is specially designed to do its job. Using a regular bolt is asking for a disaster.
14. With the brackets bare, let’s shift gears shall we? Since I was already at work, I spent a few minutes cleaning them up in the parts washer. Cleaning the brackets inst necessary, but I figure it's out, might as well pretty it up some. Since I had everything out of the car, I decided to rough the brackets up and hit them with a few coats of black paint. I had a little surface rust, and I wanted to put a stop to it.
15. If you are installing the brace on the car, you can go ahead and install the crush sleeves, don’t forget to install the washers, they should be installed on the outside of the bracket, between the bolt head and the brackets and the bracket and the brace. Then you can jump to section twenty two.
I also chose to paint the brace, I chose Ford Implement blue, it helps highlight the brace, and it just plane looks cool.
16. Once the paint is dry, if you painted anything, its time to start assembling. If you are also installing adjustable TC rods like I am, take a moment to mock them up next to the old parts, try your best to match the length of the new rods to the old ones. Also, make sure the sleeve is centered on the two ends. Don’t worry about tightening the jam nuts, just get them finger tight.
17. I started assembly by laying out all the parts, trying to orientate them as though they were in the car.
18. Lay the TC rods into the brackets and slide the bolts though them, but don’t put the nuts on yet. Reinstall the brace onto the end of the TC rod bolts, before putting the nuts on, slather some anti seize on the bolt, that way if it ever needs to come off again, it wont be as much of a hassle. Do not tighten the nut; just thread it on a few turns to keep everything from falling apart.
This is a picture of the bevel on the end plates, It should face down.
Here the TC rod, and brace are installed on one side.
19. Now grab the hardware that came with the brace. You should have two bolts, two crush sleeves, and four washers. Two nuts are included, but you will not need them. Start by laying the crush sleeves in the brackets. Leave one washer on each bolt. Slather some more anti seize on the bolt, then slide it through the back side of the bracket, into the crush sleeve and out the hole you drilled. Before you thread the bolt into the brace slip your other washer onto it between the bracket and the brace endplate. Do not tighten the bolt; just thread it in halfway or so. Assemble the other side in the same fashion, but remember, do not tighten the bolts all the way - this will allow you some wiggle room while installing it into the car.
20. With the brace pre-assembled, it should look something like this. Step back and take a moment to bask in your own awesomeness for getting this far.
21. Enough lollygagging lets get this thing back in the car. Having a friend handy to help you hold the assembly up while you are threading bolts in is a good idea, but you could use a floor jack as well. Don’t forget to goober some anti seize on the bolts before putting them in. Make sure to install the bolts in the same places as removed from, six in the front, and two in the rear.
22. Tighten the bolts in stages, so the brace doesn’t bind up. Once you have them all snugged up, torque them to 80-94 ft-lbs. If you installed, or have pillow ball TC rods, you can tighten up all the bolts for the brace. They should also be torqued to 80-94 ft-lbs. If you are using normal tension rods, with bushings, you will need to wait until the vehicle is on the ground before torquing the tension rod bolts. If the bolts for the bushings are torqued with the vehicle in the air, it can cause bushing bind that will adversely affect the suspension's ability to move.
23. With the brace tight, you can now reinstall the sway bar bushings. Just lift the sway bar up and slide the bushings over the studs, don’t tighten either down until both are in place. Once you have both bushings snug, torque the nuts and bolts to 29-36 ft-lbs.
24. Its time to bolt the TC rods up to the control arms. The tension rods should sit on top of the LCAs. If you are using factory pieces, they have the studs mounted in them. If you are using aftermarket parts, they will most likely have nuts and bolts. Whatever the case, the bolts/studs should point down, and the nuts should be on the bottom. Once you have the bolts in, torque them down to 69-83 ft-lbs. If you have adjustable TC rods, the jam nuts should still be loose. Leave them that way, you will be tightening them up with the wheels on the ground.
25. If you removed them, you can now reinstall the 2 bolts holding the power steering pressure line bracket.
26. Its time to do some double checking, recheck every bolt you removed during this install, everything should be tight except the tension rod bolts and the tension rod jam nuts.
27. If you have pillow ball TC rods, you can now reinstall the splash shield and lower back onto the ground, with the vehicle on the ground, follow the pillow ball centering procedure in section thirty two.
28. If you have bushings, then you will need to leave the splash shield off while you lower the car, so you can gain access to the TC rod bolts with the car on the ground, follow the procedure below for tightening the bolts.
29. If you are installing the brace, with the tension rod brackets in the vehicle, or if you are using stock tension rods that need to be tightened with wheels on the ground, you may have come to realize, there is no easy way to tighten the nut holding the rear of the tension rod brace in. The location of the sway bar blocks access to this nut. Without the brace installed a normal wrench could get the job done, but with the brace, it’s a different story. There is one easy option.
30. If you are lucky, you or someone you know has a set of low profile 3/8” drive swivel sockets - specifically a 17mm. With the 17mm swivel you can quite easily tighten the TC rod bolts without any extra work. If you don’t have a low pro swivel, you could try using a 3/8” drive short well 17mm, a universal, and an extension. If you mix and match you might be able to tighten the bolts down, although I didn’t try it, because I had my swivels handy.Whichever option you choose, or if you figure out some other way to do it, remember to torque the bolts to 80-94 ft-lbs.
31. If you noticed I stated above that the TC rod bushing bolts need to be torqued once the vehicle is on the ground. This only applies if you still have rubber bushings, it does not apply if you have pillow balls (they have other issues, see below). The reason behind this is called bushing bind. If you tighten a bushing with the suspension at full extension, then allow the suspension to compress to normal ride height, it will put large amounts of stress on the bushing. This can have adverse effects on the alignment, as well as greatly shortening bushing lifespan.
32. Pillow ball TC rods, while avoiding the issues with bushing bind, there is still a special procedure related to final assembly. Because of the adjustability associated with pillow ball TC rods, the actual joint is aloud to twist in the bracket. If special care is not taken when tightening the jam nuts, they can succumb to the same issues as the bushing, causing poor suspension movement, and even premature pillow ball failure. With the front wheels supporting the full weight of the vehicle, center the pillow ball in the bracket, then tighten the jam nuts. When having the car aligned, be sure to advise the alignment technician that special care should be taken when adjusting caster. If at all possible, take the car to a shop that performs race alignments, as apposed to a normal tire store, they will be much more capable of catering to your needs.
Here is how the TC rod should look when it’s centered.
With everything buttoned up, you can reinstall your splash shield, if you haven’t already, and also reconnect your negative battery cable.
Here are some finished shots of the installed brace and tension rods, see, I told you the blue looks bitchin.
Don’t get all excited, we’re not finished yet, by installing this brace, especially if you installed new tension rods, you have changed the front wheel alignment. You NEED to bring your car into an alignment shop. I recommend a quality race shop alignment, it will cost you a little more, but it is worth it. Because of the greater amount of adjustability associated with aftermarket suspension parts bringing your car to the local tires plus is just asking for a giant headache.
How do I know this? Tragically, I myself work as a mechanic for tires plus, I understand that the majority of alignments are not as thorough as they should be, in the industry, we call them toe and go’s. Alignment technicians rarely take the time to adjust anything other than toe. The day I brought my car in, I spent nearly an hour and a half on the alignment rack setting everything to my liking, according to the computer, my caster and camber are still out of spec, but that’s the way I like it. I should have brought my camera with, so I could have taken some pictures of the alignment itself.
The alignment may not seem very important, but believe me; it can completely change the feel of a car. If you’re not going to do something right, then don’t do it at all. To find a good alignment shop, check out your local racing forums, SCCA and Solo II drivers need their alignments perfect, so they often know the best place to go. If you are in MN, check out Jeff the alignment guy, if I didn’t have access to a rack, I would bring my car to him.
That’s all I’ve got, as far as I can tell that is everything, although I’m sure I missed a few things, if you notice anything that should be added, don’t be afraid to post up or email me.
Id like to should out a great big Thank You to those who help with this:
Jonnie, without you, there wouldn't be such an awesome part to install.
Cale, your help/company is indispensable, without good friends working on cars isn't nearly as fun.
This is just an amateur write up, I take no responsibility for any damage you cause to you or your car, this is meant to be a general overview of the installation. If you don’t have the skills or the tools to do the job right, bring it to someone else.
After spending a weekend in the Duluth area, driving the car all all sorts of roads, Ive come to one conclusion. I love this TC rod brace. The turn in and braking are so much cleaner, and groaning from the front suspension has been greatly reduced. Driving respectably, my ability to perceive weight transfer seems much crisper, I can more accurately feel traction loss through the break pedal, and mid corner bumps do not seem to effect traction as much.
Over all I love the way the car feels. The only downfall is the rest of my suspension, I am now working the front tires harder than I would like, larger sway bars should remedy that issue.
[post_title] => Installing a Jonnie Fraz Tension Arm Brace [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => installing-a-jonnie-fraz-tension-arm-brace [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 23:37:36 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 06:37:36 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 5438 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2009-11-02 19:59:16 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-11-03 02:59:16 [post_content] => [post_title] => How to Maximize Cargo Space, or Just Make a Bed in the Versa [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => how-to-maximize-cargo-space-or-just-make-a-bed-in-the-versa [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2012-02-21 23:33:51 [post_modified_gmt] => 2012-02-22 06:33:51 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=5438 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 5463 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2009-12-31 23:46:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2010-01-01 06:46:11 [post_content] => June 2013 Administrator Note: We recently got word that the entirety of the car (and parts) has been sold. Looking forward to seeing it back in action on some US tracks soon! We caught up with Rich Biscevic to get an update on what's going on with them these days, and he asked us to post up some info on the status of the race car AND the extra chassis they have for sale. I'll let Rich take it from here: This is the sister chassis to the car that was in the Car and Driver article. NoHotWire / Car & Driver 350Z We’ve just moved our shop from Hayward, CA to San Carlos CA, and came across a bunch of items that can be used on the chassis that we’ll give to the buyer with the chassis. Here’s a list of parts included with the chassis. Included in the price, we have: -- a large number of plastic/metal undercarriage parts used to control airflow -- front wheel well liners -- structural members, (like the large “M” at the rear, and other smaller cross braces) -- brake booster -- metal hydraulic brake lines for front and rear of the car -- front wiper motor and arms -- TWO (2) wiring harnesses -- TWO sets of OEM ECUs, 2 sets of fuse & relay boxes, and 2 IPDRs, and keys to go along with it. -- Transmission tunnel aluminum heat shield -- Weather stripping seals -- And if needed, we’ll line the engine bay and transmission tunnel with heat reflective materials, the same way our full race car is done. -- We’ll include a long block motor at this price as well. In addition to the items above, we’re selling the chassis (of course), front sub frame, rear sub frame, front suspension, rear suspension, steering rack and shaft, stock steering wheel, dash with master battery switch, hood with hood pins, front radiator support, doors, bumper covers, fenders, head light with headlights, pedals, brake master and booster, a set of wheels and Cobra 6 point harness. AND a Cobra Evolution S Kevlar seat (over $1,000). We’re also including the fuel tank, red heads, fuel discriminator, clutch, seat slider, and the carbon fiber covers over the fuel tank. What is not very evident in the photos is how we tied the roll cage into the rear sub frame of the car. We crossed over the tank and attached directly to the sub frame. In the rear, we cut away the sheet metal and went down to the structure underneath it, and covered it back up. NO expense was spared in preparing this chassis. We welded a 'ledge' around the rear trunk area to provide structure for the Lexan which separates the driver from the fueler. The whole thing was well thought out. As anyone knows who's built a race car, the worst part is the beginning. This chassis has all the crappy work done to it. The stripping of the parts, the scraping the sound deadening, the digging out the seams for seam welding, the cage design and build (welding upside down and getting burned!), the painting, etc. We've gutted the doors down to the skin. We even 'deleted' the hole for the antenna! Now all that's left is the fun part. Putting the go-fast parts on it! We really didn't spare any expense in building the chassis. It's a shame we have to sell it. The whole interior has been painted white. The exterior has a $7,000 paint job on it. (In stock colors, nothing exotic, just a really well done paint job). The cage was TIG welded, with the exception of where it ties into the stock chassis. Here's the video of us stripping the car, click on the link just below the car: http://www.impact-engineering.com/ And the photos: One thing to note in this picture is the A-arm. The 350Z has a very wide radius A-pillar, so putting in a cage that is tight to the body is very difficult to do. Most tube bending equipment can't handle a radius so large. We found an aero-space manufacturer in Silicon Valley that had a big enough die to bend a radius as wide as we needed. Most cages we've seen had a smaller radius and a lot of space between the cage's A-pillar and the chassis. This is quicker and easier to do, but less desirable. It’s best to keep the cage as close to the chassis as possible. We increased the strength by gusseting and skip welding the length of the arm. Note the X over the driver’s tank. The rear bars connect to the front of the rear sub frame for added strength. This TIG weld is an example of the tightness and penetration we achieved with each bar in the cage. Another example of the quality of the welds. Of course 360 degrees was possible because of the process and method used to construct the cage. Note how far out the NASCAR bars go. The are within a ¼” of the door skin! This allows for maximum protection and ease of entry for the driver. Look how close the A pillar bar is to the chassis. It just doesn’t get any better than that. The cage was MIG welded to the chassis, thus the larger welds. MIG is lower heat, which is what you want when welding the cage to the chassis. The metal ‘coffins’ which the cage rests on widens the area of attachment to the chassis, and increases the safety of the cage. The cage won’t tear through the floor of the car! And the cage is braced against the firewall as well. The custom seat mount allows for a slider and is much stronger than the sheet metal sliders that you normally see in race cars. It is also lower, so a tall driver can get in without hitting his head on the roof! And the wheel wells: Here are some new shots of the skip welding done on the car. As you can see, the welds were shaved down prior to painting. All seams were scraped out, cleaned up, welded, shaved, primered and painted. [post_title] => NoHotWire Racing / Car & Driver Koni Challenge 350Z for sale! [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => koni-challenge-350z-for-sale [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:41:20 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:41:20 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=5463 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 5491 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2009-12-31 00:05:12 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-31 07:05:12 [post_content] => Car and Driver Nissan 350Z for Sale Grand-Am Continental Tire Challenge Car We built this car as part of a Car and Driver Magazine article and it was featured in the August 2008 issue. No expense was spared in its preparation. From the seam welding and detail on the roll cage, to the Bosch MS 4.3 ECU and Bosch DDU 4 display, the car was built to compete at the highest level of competition for production based cars. NoHotWire / Car & Driver 350Z Features: TIG welded full roll cage, stripped, seam welded and car prep done by Impact Engineering 3.5 liter V6 race motor, Tilton flywheel and clutch Custom long tube header, and titanium/stainless steel exhaust Coast Fabrication mufflers Bosch MS 4.3 ECU and Grand Am approved wiring harness Bosch C4 data acquisition Chassis harness has connectors for 3 way accelerometer, YAW sensor, shock potentiometers, steering angle Deutsch Autosport connectors throughout the vehicle AIM lap trigger Bosch DDU4 fully customizable display. Removable steering wheel has controls for 6 driver selectable pages, display brightness control, radio button, pit speed limiter and fuel reset. Carbon/Kevlar NISMO V3 body kit as approved by Grand Am Carbon fiber headlight replacements (headlights wired for night races) Functioning wiper and wiring for high beams Custom Dual dry break fuel tank with, rollover and discriminator valves. 4 Bosch in tank fuel pump. Primary + backup fuel pumps, can run down to ½ gallon before starvation occurs! Carbon driveshaft StopTech front brake calipers and rotors. Brembo rear calipers. 3” brake ducts to front rotors Tevis stand alone ABS system, with brake bias bar. 3” thick C&R large capacity dual pass radiator with built in engine oil heat exchanger Koni double adjustable shocks 350evo sway bars 350evo front upper A-Arms, camber adjustable Cobra seat and 6 point harnesses Custom ultra-low seat mount on slider for taller drivers Switches are all Otto aircraft switches, circuit breakers are Klixon Wired for Grand Am Delphi transponder Hard wired for Motorola Radio AMB transponder with driver ID, hardwired Accusump Electrical fire extinguisher Jongbloed wheels with Hoosier tires APR wheel studs Driver accessible electrical cut off Iso-Torque rear differential with cooling radiator and fan (Note: this diff is owned by Torvec, however, they want a race team to give them feedback on the diff. We'll facilitate the relationship.) Gold heat shield in engine bay and transmission tunnel to reduce cabin temperature NISMO power steering cooler All support software Bosch MODAS Team software and interface cable ABS Diagnostics/brake bleeding software and interface cable DDU4 customization software and interface cable (this is an easy to use graphical user interface) Wiring diagrams included. All relays and fuses are labeled for clear understanding of function. Weighs 2900 lbs. Never crashed! Never wrecked! Paint is in excellent condition. Spares to go with the car: second set of Jongbloed wheels/tires (Rains too) 2 spare motors spare rear subframe spare NISMO limited slip diff spare transmission second set of Koni Shocks LOTS of other parts are available The car can be seen at our shop in San Carlos, CA. It’s more impressive in person than it is in the photos. We have over $150,000 invested. Interested parties should contact Richard Biscevic at 650-743-5643. [post_title] => Car and Driver Nissan 350Z for Sale [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => car-and-driver-nissan-350z-for-sale [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:45:36 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:45:36 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=5491 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 5962 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2010-02-17 22:03:38 [post_date_gmt] => 2010-02-18 05:03:38 [post_content] => Thought I'd pass on a write up I did tonight on my G37 vert 6mt. I did this mod on my Maxima as soon as I got it. the clutch engagement is way too high. So I lowered it on my max. I drove 70k miles like that on the stock clutch and it was still holding up strong when I sold the car last week. I didn't baby the clutch either. I have over 100 1/4mile time slips to prove that in that car. Ok on to the disclaimer stuff.... You can damage your clutch if you do not do this correctly and I do not take any responsibility if you do damage your car. Do this at your own risk.... ok now to the fun part. Fist I noticed that the clutch pedal mechanism is different than on my 2k2 max in how things are routed but the ideas are exactly the same. One thing that I noticed on the G is that I dont have as much room to work with on the rod going into the fork (see pictures down below for explanation of this) as I did my max because there is no more threads to screw into the fork. Instructions (read entirely before starting) **Before starting you will need to get some speed measurements in each gear. Get the rpms for each gear at a set speed. Example on my car: 40mph in 3rd gear is 3100rpm, 4th gear 2500rpm, 5th gear 2000rpm. Do this for 40mph, 30mph, 50, 60, and 70mph. This is done so when the adjustment is done you can see if the rpms will match at all the speeds in each gear. This will help determine if you are totally disengaged. 1.) You will need a 12mm wrench for the bolt behind the fork. You will need to losen this bolt to its max. 2.) Mark the rod going into the fork with a sharpie pen and make sure you make a very visible mark. This is so you can see how many turns you have done. 3.) Turn the rod counterclockwise (**see below for clarification**)going into the fork until desired turns. I was able to do my Maxima 2.5 turns but the max i can do the G is 1.5-1.75 turns. There just are no more threads for the bolt on the rod to unscrew. Most people that I have talked to say do not go over 2. WARNING this is where you can screw up your clutch. If you are able to screw beyond 2 turns you can get to the point where when you release the clutch pedal, the clutch will not be fully engaged. I'll explain how to test this below. (**counter clockwise as if you are looking right at the rod from the drivers seat toward the engine bay**) Hint: It's easier to turn the rod if you slightly press in the clutch pedal to release the force on the rod. Hint: I used long nose needle nose pliers with rubber ends to help keep from scratching up the rod... That's just me. No one can see it but if the dealer ever sees it, then well, they have something against you. 4.) After achieve the amount of turns, you will need to tight the bold on the rod so the rod will not turn on you over time. Make sure this is really really tight. It may help to put a big screwdriver into the fork and the 12mm wrench to help tighten. 5.) You will not have to worry about the clutch pedal starter switch, but you will have to worry about the cruise control switch. When you move the rod you move the pedal away from the switch and closer to the floor. When you see the pic below of the cruise switch you will see the losing bolt is a PIA to get to. (Its a 12mm as well. the only way I was able to get to it was a small pair of locking pliers to loosen and tighten it. I was not able to get a wrench in there.) You can test if you need to adjust this by driving the car and seeing if you can set the cruise control. If not then you will need to adjust this. You will want to unplug the switch and then after the bold is loose screw the switch down until its in complete contact with the clutch pedal, and reassemble Hint: I've heard of people just cluing quarters to the clutch pedal stop and that was enough. Nothing really wrong with that Hint: If this DIY is something you want to just try, then you can tape some quarters there for the meantime. 6.) Test your new mod out. First start the car with the car out of gear. Push in clutch and put in 1st. Car should not move. You should be able to move the pedal off the floor a little before it moves. If its move right after the floor you may have screwed the rod into the fork too much. Now remember how I said to get the rpms at certain speeds in certain gears. Here is where you test it out. If after the adjustment you are having higher rpms that what you previously recorded then your clutch is not fully engaged and you need to back off the rod until you get matching speeds. ok pictures This picture shows the pedals and how the clutch pedal is a bit higher than the brake pedal. The goal is to get the clutch close to the brake pedal. This pic shows the clutch pedal start switch right in the middle. To the left is the fork and rod in discussion. The order of the rod mechanism is from right to left... black boot, rod, bolt(one you need to loosen), fork, and clutch pedal. Better pic of the rod mechanism Here is the cruise control switch. The whole thing: Next pic is a closeup between the clutch pedal and the cruise switch. This will open up when you screw in the rod. Enough to open the switch depending on how much adjustment you do. Article By: Fezzik [post_title] => How To Lower Clutch pedal engagement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => how-to-lower-clutch-pedal-engagement-infiniti-g37-and-nissan-370z [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-08-17 22:16:20 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-08-18 05:16:20 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=5962 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 6489 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2009-12-31 00:15:09 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-31 07:15:09 [post_content] =>
Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's M-Series Forum / Fuga Forum
Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums
- Battery cable is disconnected
- Power window switch connector is disconnected
- Power window regulator is replaced
- Power window motor is replaced
- Window glass is removed
- Window glass run rubber is replaced
- Power window fuse is blown
- Turn the Ignition switch “ON”.
- Open the window more than half way using manual-switch (NOT Auto-Mode) operation.
- NOTE: If the window is already open more than half way, go to step 3.
- Close the window using the manual-switch operation and hold the switch UP for 3 to 4 seconds after the glass reaches the fully closed position.
- Confirm the window you are working on is operating properly.
- Then, confirm all other windows are operating properly.
- Battery cable is disconnected
- Sunroof motor is replaced
- Sunroof anti pinch function is activated for more than 5 seconds continuously
- Sunroof auto-open and auto-close function does not operate
- Fully close the sunroof. If necessary, press the Close switch several times until the roof is completely closed.
- Press and hold the Close switch for 3 to 4 seconds.
- Confirm the automatic operation of the sunroof works properly.
Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums
Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums
[post_title] => 350Z Wheel Identification Guide [post_excerpt] => A definitive guide to all the styles of original equipment wheels (size, offset and design) available on the Nissan 350Z throughout its production. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-wheel-identification-guide [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-07-12 19:37:30 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-07-13 02:37:30 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=7408 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 7704 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2009-12-31 00:45:14 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-31 07:45:14 [post_content] => This article was written by ffrpwner, NICOclub's Z32 Forum Moderator.
Let's start with the stock wheels. Note this setup is for the Twin Turbo model only, all others use the Front setup all around for all four (4) wheels. I will not explain or mention the spare tire/wheel here at all.
Front: 16” x 7.5” 45mm Offset
Rear: 16” x 8.5” 35mm Offset
The First number represents the Wheel Diameter, the second Number represents the Wheel Width. The Third Number represents the Offset.
The Diameter is the final diameter of the wheel, the distance measured from one point on the external circumference, passing through the center of the wheel, to the opposite point on the circumference. In this case, a total of 16 inches.
The Width is the distance from one side or “face” of the wheel to the other side. You usually refer to it as “how wide are the wheels”. In this case, 7.5 inches for the front and 8.5 inches for the rear.
The Offset (and this is when people go nuts) is the distance between the center and the mounting pad. To explain better, is the distance between the wheel center point (width’s center) and the mounting pad of the wheel (the surface that touches the Brake Rotors on the car that has the five holes for the lugs).
The offset can be Negative, Zero, and Positive. Positive will tell you that the pad is to the outside of the center, Zero means the mounting point is at the center, and Negative means the pad is to the inside of the center (so you get a BIG lip).
To avoid going crazy calculating all this for aftermarket wheels, the first step is to convert all the numbers to one unit. On this case, I prefer to use Millimeters as it is more precise. To convert, multiply inches by 25.4. This means (in case you failed Math in HS) that: 1” = 25.4 mm
When you buy new wheels, you have to determine first what Diameter you want. 17 and 18 is the common for the Z, but you can go higher if you want, just consider that you should keep the final diameter close to the original number (that is, the diameter with the tire).
Then you determine the Width and Offset, and you have to choose both numbers at the same time because they are 100% related to each other and a real good fitment will depend on both of them and not just one.
You should make up your mind on what Width you would like to have, then, find out what Offsets those particular wheels are offered, and then sit down with a calculator and do some math as follow:
Lets take a 17” x 10” 45mm Offset wheel for an example to replace the rear wheels:
- Convert the Width to mm: 10 x 25.4 = 254mm
- Divide it by 2 (to get center point): 254 / 2 = 127mm
- Subtract the offset from it: 127 – 45 = 82mm
Now you have 82mm and that is the distance from the mounting pad to the most outside point of the wheel. Compare it to the stock wheel: 72.95mm. That is about ½ of an inch wider (to the outside only!).
Now subtract the 82mm from the total Width: 254 – 82 = 172mm. This is the distance of from the mounting pad to the most internal point of the wheel. Compare it to the stock wheel: 142.95mm. That is about 1 inch wider (to the inside).
So there you have it, you new wheel is going to stick out ½ inch more than stock, and is going to be 1 inch wider to the inside. Note that those wheels are 1 ½ inches wider than stock, but only ½ inch sticks out, the rest goes to the inside.
Now get under your Z and measure around to see if you have clearance for it or not. If you have a TT, the HICAS will be a problem for 17 inches wheels, so choosing 18 would be better, but in the example above, you could keep 17 if you get a smaller Offset, so the wheel “slides” towards the outside (just like using Spacers). But then you have to consider how much can you get the wheels stick out of the rear fender before if rubs or just looks ridiculous. Or if you have the $$$, get a Wide Body Kit and then all your problems are solved.
There are three more designations for wheels. One specifies the Contour. While there are many details about the wheel contour, most P-metric radials (typical tires, rather than TRX or other rarely-seen variants) will fit a wheel with a J, JJ, or JK wheel contour. (In other word, don’t worry too much about this as most tires out there will fit your wheels).
The second one is the Lug Pattern and Size. For the Z it is a 5-Lug, 114.3mm Radius Circle Bolt Pattern using 12mm X 1.25 Lugs.
The third one is the Center Bore which is the location hole machined in the center of the wheel and this varies from one vehicle to another. It is essential the wheels purchased have the correct center bore for the vehicle they are to suit, otherwise you may experience balancing problems. On the Z, the Center Bore is 66.1
At the end, if you must know (and you should), the entire specs for the Z32 wheels is as follow:
Front: 16” x 7.5” 45mm Offset 5-lug 114.3mm Bolt Pattern 66.1CB
Rear: 16” x 8.5” 35mm Offset 5-lug 114.3mm Bolt Pattern 66.1CB
Lugs: 12mm x 1.25
What size tires can I run?
overall diameter: 24.86"
overall diameter: 24.68"
overall diameter: 25.32"
overall diameter: 24.71"
overall diameter: 25.03"
overall diameter: 24.58"
overall diameter: 24.85"
overall diameter: 25.09"
overall diameter: 24.48"
overall diameter: 24.75"
overall diameter: 25.02"
overall diameter: 24.49"
overall diameter: 24.73"
Suggested tire width when mounted on:
7.5": 225 mm
8": 235 mm
8.5": 245 mm
9": 255 mm
9.5": 265 mm
note: give or take 10 mm. I.E. you can put 245s or 265s on 9" wide rims.
235/45/17 all around (not recommended for TT)
245/40/17 all around
255/40/17 all around
235/45/17 front, 245/40/17 rear
235/45/17 front, 255/40/17 rear
235/45/17 front, 275/35/17 rear
235/45/17 front, 285/35/17 rear
245/40/17 front, 255/40/17 rear
245/40/17 front, 275/35/17 rear
245/40/17 front, 285/35/17 rear
255/40/17 front, 275/35/17 rear
255/40/17 front, 285/35/17 rear
245/35/18 all around
255/35/18 all around
245/35/18 front, 285/30/18 rear
255/35/18 front, 285/30/18 rear
235/45/17 front, 255/35/18 rear
235/45/17 front, 285/30/18 rear
245/40/17 front, 255/35/18 rear
245/40/17 front, 285/30/18 rear
255/40/17 front, 285/30/18 rear
-Replacement Shift knob (of your choice)
Pry open the shift console with a flathead, I marked the sweet spots where the clips are near in blue tape.
Once the clips have been detached, go ahead and pull towards you to release and free the other clips, thus removing the console.
You'll notice a cotton ball under the boot, leave it be. You'll only be working with whats above that.
Now, you'll see the part which the vice grip has to clamp onto. Most people use radiator hose so it grips better along with the vicegrip - Although, there is already rubber wrapped around the stem. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO UNSCREW THE KNOB WITHOUT SECURING THE SHIFT STEM WITHOUT THE VICE GRIP, you can damage your transmission.
Now with the firmest setting on the vice grip, clamp it and make sure the grip is strong enough so the stem isn't going anywhere. The only thing you want moving is the shiftknob. Clamp vicegrips, and twist away.
Here is the knob and the bushing it comes with. Simple design, comfortable fit.
You will want to have the cup facing upwards towards the knob before you thread it on.
Now install your new shift knob, pop the console back in place and enjoy.
[post_title] => How to replace your Nissan 350Z shift knob with an aftermarket knob [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => how-to-replace-the-oem-shift-knob-with-an-aftermarket-shift-knob-nissan-350z [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2012-08-12 21:17:54 [post_modified_gmt] => 2012-08-13 04:17:54 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=7805 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 8050 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2009-11-22 20:38:41 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-11-23 03:38:41 [post_content] => Aside from providing technical help and an enjoyable community, NICOclub also has several special niches that new and old members alike would be interested in exploring: NICOclub Regional and International Forums — Nissan/Infiniti Commercial Repository — NICOclub Ride of the Month (ROTM) [post_title] => VI. Interesting Sections (Nissan Sport Magazine, Commercials, ROTM) [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => vi-interesting-sections-nissan-sport-magazine-commercials-rotm [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nicoclub-ride-of-the-month-list.html [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:55:54 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:55:54 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=8050 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 8460 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2009-11-15 12:37:22 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-11-15 19:37:22 [post_content] => By: Surfwax95 I just installed my Fidanza Flywheel that I got from Enjuku Racing. I remember before I bought it I was doing research like a mad man trying to figure out whether or not it was right for me and my specific driving habits/styles. After a few weeks I decided to purchase it from Enjuku. Here are my thoughts. The following is all based on MY car, a 1995 240sx 5-speed with the following mods that may or may not effect the review: AEM Short Ram intake, 300zx fuel filter and pump, RPS Sport Clutch rated at ~250 ft.lbs., and springs/struts. Installation: Well, I consider myself to be mechanically inclined, but definitely no expert. I found the install to be more tedious than laborious. Because of how low my 240 is, the car was lifted using a scissor jack to get the car started up, and a larger jack was then slid underneath to jack it up the rest of the way. I used jackstands to keep all 4 corners in the air. I had my trusty 240sx Factory Service Manual beside me the whole time and my dad helped me out with the labor. Although optional, we dropped the exhaust and released the engine mounts to help ease out the entire transmission. The RPS clutch I mentioned earlier was installed using the Throw-Out bearing that was included. Taking off the stock flywheel I noticed a HUGE difference in weight compared to the Fidanza. I put everything back together just the way I took it apart. Overall I would say difficulty was 6/10 with 10 being "Let somebody else do it for $." Mostly because of the tools needed, my dad owns a shop and had all the tools we needed (air tools for breaking some of the more stubborn bolts), but anyone with a good set of tools and some determination will be able to do this install. First Impressions: When I started the car, I noticed it didn't have to run the starter near as long as I did before I installed the flywheel. I drove home from my dad's house (300) miles keeping it under 3k RPMs to give it a good break in. I wouldn't recommend getting the freshly installed flywheel over 4k RPMs, the manufacturer recommends a 200-500 mile break in period to let the flywheel seat properly. The car revs a LOT faster now, I'm not really one to rev at people, but let's just say I can now. Before I had to lay my foot on the throttle for 2 seconds to get it up to 5000rpms, now a small blip will get the tach up there. After the break in, I did my first 0-60 run. Using my G-tech (which isn't very accurate) my 0-60 WAS 8.65 seconds. With a new clutch and this flywheel it is now 8.02 seconds. I haven't experienced the loss of driveability that a lot of people have talked about in some other posts. I can still let out on the clutch with NO throttle and not stall out. The KA has a surplus of torque and installing this flywheel has not adversely effected it. Driving up hills isn't as labor intensive as a lot of people make it out to be. You don't have to downshift if you've got some speed going into it. Hard launches will of course be compromised due to the loss in reciprocating mass, but the top end gained from the flywheel makes up for the poorer launch. Conclusions: From the 100 or so hard miles I've put on this flywheel so far, I would have to say this product is DEFINITELY recommended. Like I said before, the KA has a LOT of torque, but what it doesn't have is high end power. We've all experienced the "dropoff" at 5500. This flywheel has basically moved my entire power band from "3k - 5k" to "3.5k - 6k". It will lose a little bit of grunt right around 3000, but the gain in upper RPM power more than makes up for it. So if you think losing some of the KA's lower end power for a large gain in high end power then this product is for you. I highly recommend this product and I also highly recommend Enjuku Racing. They got this to me in 3 days and for a better price than a lot of other places. Support NICOclub.com and buy from sponsors! A quick "pro/con" for people who don't want to read: Pros - Faster revs. - Rev matching on downshifts is awesome now. Just a tiny blip of the throttle to get 2k RPMs. - Makes it feel like a CAR engine, not a truck motor. - Passing on the highway is a lot better. - Easier starting. - Fills the void in power past 5k RPMs. - Better gas mileage. (I haven't had it long enough to get an average, but after one tank of gas it beats my normal average of 27.3, now it's 28.6.) Cons - Revs drop a lot faster, not cool for autoXing. Push in the clutch and it drops to 750 rpms. - $300 could be spent on something that gains more power. - Apparently some people lose some driveability due to the "loss" in torque. I haven't experienced this. - Some people may find it difficult to install. - You'll get more speeding tickets. Hope you enjoyed the article, there's a lot more 240sx installation articles at 240sxTech.com! [post_title] => Review: Fidanza Flywheel [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => review-fidanza-flywheel [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 22:13:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 05:13:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=8460 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 9757 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-05-24 00:38:47 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-05-24 07:38:47 [post_content] => Yet another long-term project from NICOclub HQ... I hope you guys enjoy it! Over the course of managing this forum, I see tons of cars. You guys post up pictures of your daily drivers, your latest projects, your track cars, and things you'd like to build someday. We also go to a lot of events throughout the year, and we see the best of the best - especially at SEMA and the JCCS. So, there's never a shortage of ideas on the "wish list", and that's where this car comes in. Having already modded several more modern Nissan vehicles, I felt like taking a different route. I've always appreciated the history and heritage of the Z cars, and figured maybe I'd do a restoration on one. So, in early 2007, I began the search for a suitable candidate. I knew I wanted something from the 70-73 era. I'm not a big fan of emissions equipment, and Arizona has some of the most stringent emissions standards in the country. Some would say we're even held to a higher standard than California... since all our testing stations are state-run facilities, there's no option of bribing the shop or securing a "homey hookup". Anyhow, I also prefer the clean simplicity of the early cars... no Federally-mandated big bumpers, no fuel injection, no extra electronics. Just pure early Japanese sports car heritage. As you know, Datsuns are notorious for rusting on the boat on the way to the US. In fact, despite their concentration on the west coast, most of the ones I looked at were badly corroded... Since I wanted to do a restoration, not a complete rotisserie rebuild, I skipped the ones with visible rust perforation. I had a budget in mind, but the more cars I looked at, the more I realized that I might have to lower my standards. So, I expanded my search to non-running examples. Immediately I ran across a small classified ad for a 1972 240Z with a 4-speed and air conditioning, less than 10 miles from home. The asking price was right, so my hopes were lifted - Let's go look at a Z! A quick phone call to my best friend and partner-in-crime, Master Fabricator Jason McCoy (rotorimp) and he showed up with a truck and trailer, ready to go haul the next project. We arrived at the seller's home, and he was a real character. He was a disabled Veteran, and he'd bought the Z in Phoenix at West Valley Datsun after returning home from Vietnam. He'd driven it regularly, and had it serviced by the dealer, until 2003 when his age and injuries conspired against him, and he became unable to steer and shift effectively. He parked her in the back yard and bought a Frontier - my kinda guy. Here's how she looked the day before I arrived: [gallery include="10117,10118,10119" link="file"] Unfortunately, by the time we were done chatting, it had gotten dark. Flashlights in hand, we gave the Z a cursory inspection, saw that it was complete and solid, and shook on the deal. On March 13, 2007, I became a classic Z owner.
Before we get into the actual restoration, here's some photos I took as I was examining my purchase... It's not much, but it's a starting point. [gallery exclude="9809,9837,9838,9839,10112,10117,10118,10119" link="file" columns="4"] Little did I know at the time that this car would have an incredible impact on so many people, and completely change the course of my life forever... No kidding. Read more: 240Z restoration and modification - Part 2 Questions? Comments? Just want to discuss the build? Here's where: Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z
[post_title] => NICOclub Build Series - 1972 Datsun 240Z resto-mod: Meet "Bella" [post_excerpt] => Another multi-part build article from NICOclub HQ: The restoration and modification of an RB25-powered 1972 240Z named "Bella". [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-2.html [post_modified] => 2020-05-29 23:04:06 [post_modified_gmt] => 2020-05-30 06:04:06 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=9757 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 9876 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 22:58:09 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 05:58:09 [post_content] => Welcome back! Hope you enjoyed the introduction to this build. For the first several months, nothing was done on the Z. Life was hectic, and I had plenty on my plate. I'd been reading up on classic Z restorations, bought a few good books off ebay, and found a couple more at the library. The more I learned, the more I thought I'd like to do a full-scale restoration, while keeping budget in mind and not "over-restoring" it. I wanted a driver, not a concours-ready trailer queen. Besides, I *drive* my cars, so I don't mind a rock chip or some road grime. I'd seen the pictures of Mark Rolston's gorgeous 240Z in Super Street, and it always seemed to me to be the "perfect" blend of performance and style for a classic Z... the color, the stance, the wheels, the body modifications - All of it. Of course, I've never been one to try and replicate someone else's work, but it gave me some good ideas. A few months later, I got motivated to get started. Off to Jason's place, where we gave the car a more thorough inspection. The engine turned over by hand, so we hooked up a new battery, sprayed in some starting fluid, and hit the key... A sputter, a backfire, and a reluctant start... she actually ran for a few minutes! Encouraged by that, it was time to dig in. The first order of business was to remove all the trim, glass, interior, and non-essentials so that the bodywork could be done. Fortunately, it was pretty apparent that she'd never been in an accident, and the only repair to the body was a repaint of the right front wheel arch (for unknown reasons). [gallery include="10121,10122,10123,10124" link="file" columns="4"] Remember how I said I didn't want a car with any rust? Well, I should have known that ALL Datsuns have at least SOME rust, and she was no different. In fact, the paint on her "doglegs" (bottom front of the rear wheel arch) were hiding some pretty substantial corrosion. The more I ground away, the more it became apparent that there was going to be some serious cutting and welding going on. Fortunately, Jason is a whiz with a welder, so we grabbed a busted-up hood from an S13 an started cutting out metal to make patch panels with. A plasma cutter, a grinder, and a wire wheel saved us a ton of work. We spent a lot of time making cardboard templates for the patch panels, and while I cut, shaped and bent the patches, Jason was busy welding in the new metal. Extraneous holes were patched and filled, and leftover spray paint covered the raw metal until I could get it primered properly. The antenna hole, the side emblem holes, and the rear view mirror holes were deleted (I had planned to use fender mirrors - before I realized that they're a colossal pain, and they're virtually useless). [gallery include="10125,10126,10127,10128" link="file" columns="4"] As we dug into the bodywork, we found one more area that was going to pose a problem. Seems the battery had leaked pretty badly somewhere along the line, and the battery tray and entire inner fenderwell were compromised. But, the worst damage was even further down, where the front tension rod meets the frame - the battery acid had run right into that seam, and both the tension rod mount and the frame were weakened by the corrosion. [gallery include="10130,10131,10132,10133" link="file" columns="4"] Jason tackled this part with a vengeance, since it's a critical strength area. He cut out the battery tray, the inner fenderwell, and a section of the frame rail. He fabricated a fenderwell patch, an entirely new battery tray, and beefed up the frame rail while creating a new tension rod mount. Cross-measurements were taken to ensure the frame was square and true, and a set of come-alongs and turnbuckles were employed to make small adjustments while the bracing was welded in. Then, to make sure one side wasn't stiffer than the other, he reinforced the driver's side as well. At the time, it didn't seem important - as the project progressed, it became critical. [gallery include="10134,10135" link="file" columns="2"] All of the rust areas that were repaired were treated to a coat of POR-15. And, since there was quite a bit left, I used it on areas that normally DO rust on a Z. A quick zap with a wire wheel, some sandpaper, and a wipedown with brake parts cleaner, followed by an application of POR-15, and we'd never have to worry about corrosion again. The entire undercarriage got a fresh coat of rubberized undercoating (I had already removed most of the original) - it was time to send her off for paint. I told you this project was being done backwards! Ready to read Part 3? Project 240Z gets paint! Questions? Comments? Just want to discuss the build? Here's where: Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 2 [post_excerpt] => The more I learned about the 240Z, the more I thought I'd like to do a full-scale restoration, while keeping budget in mind and not "over-restoring" it. I wanted a driver, not a concours-ready trailer queen. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-2 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-3.html [post_modified] => 2011-06-26 18:00:20 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-06-27 01:00:20 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=9876 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 9920 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:00:00 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:00:00 [post_content] => If you haven't noticed by now, this project was done somewhat backwards - Ordinarily, I'd tear the car down, and restore it in order (engine, drivetrain, suspension, body, paint, interior). But I really needed to be motivated, and I just couldn't wait to see her in her new paint color. Speaking of paint, I've done bodywork and paint ONE time in my life - and hated it. Despite all my restorations and modded cars, it's the one skill I just don't seem to have much luck with. As such, it's one of those things I'll farm out to an expert. A couple hints for anyone following along: I HATE repaints when there's a lot of masking involved. My feeling is, if you're going to do a color change on a car, it had better involve removing the glass, trim, bumpers, interior, etc. A crappy repaint will kill your value if it's obvious, so take your time and do it right. I removed everything including the windshield (had my local windshield installer guy come out and remove that), masked the dash and steering wheel myself, and triple-checked the car for anything I didn't want to be repainted. This not only makes sure you get good paint coverage, but your painter will appreciate not having to be cautious. Now, the paint color becomes important later in the story, but here's the deal on it for now: I was sitting at a stoplight and a vehicle pulled up next to me. It was obviously freshly-washed, and the paint color just jumped out at me... I literally stared at it driving away, caught up to see it again, changed lanes to see the side in the shade - THAT was the color I wanted. I drove straight to a dealership to get the color code: It's from a 2005 Honday Odyssey minivan, Ocean Mist Metallic. A quick trip to our local auto paint supply shop and she's off to the painters! When it comes to the budget for paint and bodywork, a couple things worked in my favor here: Even though the car had a lot of little dings and imperfections, I made it clear that this wasn't going to be a show car - it's a driver. So, I wanted it smooth but within budget. Having already removed everything that wasn't going to get painted blue, and also not having a deadline in mind, both helped with the cost. This way, the bodywork could be done a little at a time, and the painter could shoot the car, the door jambs, inside the hood and decklid, as well as the extra parts, without worrying about masking for overspray. In preparation for the paint shop visit, I had ordered the MSA front air dam and the replica BRE spoiler. A month later, she was done. Here she is with her new paint: [gallery link="file"] With that completed, I was motivated to press on with the project - But reality had other plans for me, and another huge delay was right around the corner... Part 4 - The Z project screeches to a halt... Questions? Comments? Just want to discuss the build? Here's where: Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 3 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-3 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-4.html [post_modified] => 2015-04-25 19:20:52 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-04-26 02:20:52 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=9920 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 9942 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-05-30 11:07:40 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-05-30 18:07:40 [post_content] => NICOclub's Official Rally Team makes its competitive debut in Minnesota, brings home much more than a win. by Ian Seppanen (FlatBlackIan) It's just after 5am and my alarm is going off. I think to myself, “Where am I?” Then my conscious mind catches up with the rest of my body. Registration opens in less than 4 hours. Despite the fact that I've been averaging 4 hours of sleep a night for more than a week, I'm up and getting ready in seconds. Today is the day. I pick up my phone and dial my Crew Chief, Cale. Normally a heavy sleeper he answers with grogginess in his voice, I hear road noise in the background. Good, he's in the truck. It’s nearly 6 am as I force down some cereal. I haul all my extra clothes and some last minute tools down to the driveway just as Cale pulls up in the Titan. The race car is just where I left it the night before, sort of, securely strapped to the trailer. The bed of the truck overflowing with spares, tools, and gear. It had only been 4 hours since we finished loading everything, yet it felt like another year. The tightness in my chest had been growing for days. Let’s hit the road. The truck is heavy, but the engine seems happy to be pulling it, the miles roll off. The trip happens in the blink of an eye; before I even feel ready we're in Park Rapids. It’s time to get the car off the trailer. We're already behind schedule, it’s almost 10 am. I check my phone, Chris Gordon and Jennifer Majszak are already starting registration and should be back to help in a few minutes. The rest of our service crew is running 3 hours behind. Chris and Jennifer show up as the car comes off the trailer. I shake Jennifer's hand; at 5' 2”, and not enough pounds, she makes me feel like a giant. It’s good to finally put a face to a voice and a name. I wave hello to Chris, his mood seems to have lightened since I last saw him, it lifts my spirits. They had driven up the night before from Traverse City MI, both look tired. First things first, I ask Jennifer to sit in the car. Without anyone her size on hand, I had estimated belt length and seat position. My guess is good. The belts are tight, and she can reach the computer. Perfect, let’s get the car to Tech. My chest tightens up as Chris tells me that both Jennifer's head/neck restraint and her fire safety suit are coming with another competitor. Both need to be checked before the car can be cleared by the event's Technical Inspectors. This does not help my nerves. Having been through many Tech inspections, I know what I'm in for, but this is a “new construction”, and it’s my car, what if I missed something. Will there be time to rectify the mistake? There is almost no time to worry; we still need to work out registration. Cale and I head to headquarters to finalize entry. Chris begins the process of teaching Jennifer how to use the rally computer. This will be her first time co-driving a rally car. Registration complete, we head back out to the parking lot. It’s nearly noon, Jennifer and I both need to attend “Novice Training”. This will be our first time competing in an event as Driver and Co-Driver. Cale will need to Tech the car solo. Tech inspection closes at 2 pm which won’t leave much time to fix any issues that crop up during inspection. I feel like my nerves are reaching a breaking point, the only thing keeping my lid on is a similar amount of excitement. As Jennifer and I are about to head inside, the remaining safety gear shows up courtesy of Matt Bushore, and Jimmy Brandt. Chris sets them in the back of the race car. Cale jumps in, and heads off to get in line for Tech. The 240 being tech inspected: Inside the hotel room I survey the other novice drivers and co-drivers. I try to squash the feeling that I'm the newbie; we are all in the same boat here. The event safety steward begins going through the basic things you need to know to safely run a stage rally. I try to keep my mind on track. I glance at Jennifer, her eyes seem to be mirroring the same nervousness, she smiles, it calms me down a little. Halfway through the class I get a text from Cale. The car passed Tech! A broad smile crosses my face; I fight the urge to throw a fist into the air.... Keep reading - Debut of the 240sx rally car (Part 2)
[post_title] => Realizing a Dream - Debut of the 240sx rally car [post_excerpt] => NICOclub's Official Rally Team makes its competitive debut in Minnesota, piloted by our very own FlatBlackIan... and the 240sx brings home much more than a win. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => realizing-a-dream-debut-of-the-240sx-rally-car [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/realizing-a-dream-debut-of-the-240sx-rally-car-2.html [post_modified] => 2011-05-31 11:49:28 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-05-31 18:49:28 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=9942 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 9966 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-12 11:07:50 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-12 18:07:50 [post_content] => With the car having passed Tech, there's still several more hurdles ahead. As we walk out of headquarters, the rain that has begun to fall can’t dampen my spirits. I spot the rest of the service crew. We all head back to our hotel parking lot. Just enough time to finish some last minute things before Parc Expose. We set up the canopy... The crew begins swapping on a fresher set of tires, and applying some more vinyl. I rain-x the windshield while Chris works with Jenny making notes to the route book. Parc Expose is due to begin after 4pm. Jenny and I hop in the car, and head to a gas station to top off the tank and do a last minute re-check of tire pressure. When we arrive on Main St, I park near the end of the pack and climb out. The rain is coming down harder now, I’m glad there is an overhang near the car to keep us dry. Competitors, workers, and spectators all mill about, attempting not to get wet. One of the Event Stewards walks over and hands me a few more event sponsor stickers, Jenny and I struggle to put them on. They stick surprisingly well considering the rain. Just before 5 pm, we head down the block for the mandatory drivers meeting. I'm still doing mental checks as 6:45 clicks over on her watch. She points me forward, it’s our minute. The cloud of mosquitoes around the workers does not seem to have dampened their mood, it has stopped raining. They ask if we are ready as Jenny hands them the time card. We both nod. I pull forward as she stashes the card back in her route book. As we queue up a few yards behind the start control, I hear the growl of a V8 coming from the Ford Sierra a few cars ahead. The hair on my neck stands up as he powers away down the stage. As the RX7 pulls foreword, I look at Jenny and I ask her if she is ready. Her eyes are bright, she nods. I reach back and turn on the in-car camera. Moments later the silence is broken by the rasp of a rotary working towards redline. As we roll up to the start, the smiling worker asks the same question, our answers haven't changed. She tells us 30 seconds. My palms are sweating. When the clock reaches 10 seconds she starts counting down. I slip the shifter into first gear. At 5 she starts dropping fingers. Her fist swings down. The outer pedals switch positions as the cabin is filled with the scream of angry combustion... A year and a half after the project began, the NICOclub 240sx rally car is competing... but will it be competitive? Keep reading - Debut of the 240sx rally car (Part 3)
[post_title] => Realizing a Dream - Debut of the 240sx rally car - Part 2 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => realizing-a-dream-debut-of-the-240sx-rally-car-2 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-05-31 11:15:45 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-05-31 18:15:45 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=9966 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 9981 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-12 11:08:24 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-12 18:08:24 [post_content] => As I ease around the first corner, my hands and feet take over. I focus on the tree line as far down the road as I can see. The car feels good, it reacts to my inputs and I can judge it easily. I gradually increase speed. As Jen calls out corners, I try to subconsciously heed her warnings. Initially I find it difficult to paint a picture of the road based on my own observations, and the auditory signals she is relaying to me from the route book. But as the corners click by, I fall into a groove. Her words become one with all my other inputs. I find myself glad that her feminine voice is clear above the ever changing snarl of the engine. The intercom is not working. As we tear through woods, the deep ruts and rocks hardly phase me. A few times we crest hills fast enough to lighten our insides, Jen whoops joyfully. Then I hear her say 1/10 of a mile to finish. I'm confused, it can’t be over, that wasn't 6.6 miles, it was barely seconds. Then I see the yellow stopwatch followed shortly by the red one. I yank myself back to reality and mash the brakes. Jen throws her hands into the air and yells out happily. I'm sweating, shaking and elated. As we pull up to finish control, the RX7 is pulling away; I think to myself, “we’re catching them!” The worker asks a new question. “Are you having fun?” I can only smile the widest smile my face can muster. It’s answer enough.
[post_title] => Realizing a Dream - Debut of the 240sx rally car - Part 4 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => realizing-a-dream-debut-of-the-240sx-rally-car-4 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-05-31 11:17:07 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-05-31 18:17:07 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=9999 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10011 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-12 11:11:16 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-12 18:11:16 [post_content] => Afterword Follow the Project 240SX Rally car build In-car videos _______________________________________________________________________________________ Ian Seppanen has been a member at NICOclub since 2004, and has been a Moderator for three years. His off-road shenanigans in a 240sx are legendary, and anyone who meets Ian comes away impressed with his cool-headed approach and technical expertise. As an accomplished fabricator, we've enjoyed watching Ian make an old RWD economy car do things in the dirt and mud that it was never designed to do. While Ian keeps improving the Rally America-spec Group 2 rally car, we hope you'll follow his career and consider supporting Team 240 with a sponsorship or financial contribution. You can reach Ian for more details at [email protected], or just post up in the 240SX Rally car build thread! Make sure to share this article, and help spread the word about this remarkable team... We're proud of Ian and Team 240. On behalf of Team 240 and the staff here at NICOclub, thanks for spending some time with us - be safe, and Godspeed. [post_title] => Realizing a Dream - Debut of the 240sx rally car - Part 5 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => realizing-a-dream-debut-of-the-240sx-rally-car-5 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nico-staff-flatblackian.html [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:33:39 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:33:39 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10011 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10059 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2010-06-17 22:55:10 [post_date_gmt] => 2010-06-18 05:55:10 [post_content] => Senza Pari was started by Ross Martin and Casey Radtke in the spring of 2011, after years of creating custom automotive components for various engine platforms... all the while, the driving idea being to create goal specific power as efficiently and affordable as possible. It started back in 1999, with a pair of '87 Toyota Supras dedicated to beating up on the local car scene. As students, funding for power was minimal... and big name parts were out of reach. What was available, however, was a wealth of acquired knowledge and access to tools and welders. Although rudimentary at the time (mostly hand tools, grinders), we were able create very functional intake and exhaust manifolds which we used for our own cars. Gains were impressive, and the Supras rarely encountered anything that could keep up. Fast forward a few years and most of the hand tools have been replaced with a bit more precise machinery such as band-saws, simple vertical mills, welders were upgraded, and parts became much easier to make. Also, it was around this time we were starting to see increased interest, world-wide. An RB26 intake plenum for drag R32 went to Australia... a 2JZ plenum went to France. Perhaps the biggest project at the time was the twin plenum intake manifold made for the TTC Perfomance twin-turbo V8 Supra, along with several other Toyota V8 swaps. Fast forward to the current day, and both Supras are long retired. Ross's Supra has been replaced by a '94 Rx7 widebody making 620 rwhp @ 24psi. An unofficial pump gas world record at the time (September '08), we are barely scratching the surface of its potential. Future plans involve rebuilding the engine with a 2-piece E-shaft, new fuel system, new intake and exhaust manifolds, and cranking out upwards of 800-900. Everything (other than the porting on the current motor) has been done in-house. Casey is currently designing a tube frame chassis that will see power from a twin turbo 1.5UZ Toyota V8 (1UZ block/2UZ heads) that will yield 1000+ hp. All fabrications are now currently designed and verified in 3D (Solid Works) in order to work out any manufacturing issues well before any metal is cut. There is very little, if any guess-work that goes into the parts. Optimum design is also achieved for a specific goal... for example, equal length runners are just that, exactly equal. From there, all components are cut out on a Mazak rotary laser (the largest on this side of the globe) to within .003" tolerance. All parts come out exactly as designed, and allows us to fabricate a much more precise part in less time... which results in a much better product for the end user. We are constantly updating our manufacturing processes to utilize the latest and greatest methods and technologies in order to produce the highest quality parts. [post_title] => Meet SENZA PARI, fabricating POWER! [post_excerpt] => Senza Pari specializes in the design, consulting and fabrication of high-end, goal-specific forced induction systems and automotive components. Check out their amazing work, and welcome them aboard! [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => meet-senza-pari-fabricating-power [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 22:12:45 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 05:12:45 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10059 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10153 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:01:30 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:01:30 [post_content] => About two weeks after getting the Z home from the paint shop, our family life changed significantly. The next three months was spent packing up our house and moving across town. The Z restoration was once again put on hold, and everything I'd removed and set aside was now being stuffed in boxes and bags, unlabeled, in order to relocate. I was positive I'd remember where I put everything. While I was gaining a lot more space, I was also doing the ONE thing you're NOT supposed to do in the middle of a restoration, and that's move parts from where you initially put them. This lesson would become painfully obvious in the next two years, as I searched for certain parts to reassemble the car. To make matters more chaotic, right before the move, I acquired another Z. Well, sort of. See, in doing my research on the restoration, I knew I'd want to upgrade the suspension and brakes. The only problem was that it would require sourcing a LOT of individual components, and doing more research to make sure everything would work well together. As is so often the case, I got a call from a buddy whose brother had started a project and abandoned it, and he thought it might be right up my alley. So, off I go across town to look at it. As it turned out, the guy had a '73 Z that he'd started a Velo Rossa conversion on... For those of you unfamiliar with this, a Velo Rossa is a fiberglass re-body kit for the first generation (S30) Datsun Z car. The kit is loosely based on Ferrari’s famed 250GTO from the early 60’s.
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 4 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-4 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-5.html [post_modified] => 2011-06-26 18:00:57 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-06-27 01:00:57 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10153 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10169 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:02:04 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:02:04 [post_content] => During the course of getting everyone settled in at the new house, furnishing it, setting up my new garage, having a shed built, putting in landscaping, getting the kids into a new school, the car projects sat idle for quite some time. After a few months, even though there was still a ton of non-car related stuff to do, I was itching to get back into the garage. As soon as time permitted, I started removing useful parts from the shell (the car that was supposed to be converted to a Velo Rossa) and setting them aside for the restoration. A few unneeded parts (doors, headlight buckets, wheels, and some odds and ends) went up for sale on the local boards, and I actually made almost all of the initial $500 back! The non-rolling shell was strapped to a set of rolling dollies so I could move it around, and before long, Jason and I had it cut up into pieces for scrap. Since I wasn't prepared to start assembling the suspension yet, I decided it was time to pull the tired L24 engine out of my Z and get started on the rebuild. So, I had a day off and dug in. Even with careful documentation of connections and placements, the removal only took me a couple hours, and it gave me an opportunity to evaluate the condition of the engine bay. [gallery include="10179,10181,10180,10182,10183,10184" link="file" columns="3"] The original engine went on a stand to await its fate, and another few months would go by before I started back to work on the Z... However, during this hiatus from wrenching on the Z, I learned a lot more about the L24. It was a stout motor, and according to the documents I got from the previous owner, the engine was well-maintained right up until the day he parked it. I remembered that it had turned over and actually started when I tried it... Wonder what would happen if I simply gave it a good refreshing, rather than a full rebuild? Popping off the valve cover and oil pan, I started inspecting the engine. It showed very little wear, and the plugs were even still decent. The tops of the pistons were actually relatively clean, no wear on the cam, and the head was remarkably free of sludge and varnish. So, rather than dumping a pile of money into a performance rebuild, I spent the next two weekends working on the engine. I gave it a good cleaning, flushed the water passages and crankcase, replaced all the seals, rebuilt the carbs, installed all new seals, a thermostat and temp sensor, re-routed some coolant lines, gave it a fresh coat of paint, detailed it cosmetically, and buttoned it up for future installation. [gallery include="10189,10190,10191,10192,10193,10194" link="file" columns="3"] First project in the new garage... Not only did it help me get a feel for the flow of my workspace (and give me some ideas for how to make it better), I got to thinking that this car might just come together... someday. Part 6 -Project 240Z goes on the back burner... again. Questions? Comments? Just want to discuss the build? Here's where: Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 5 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-5 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-6.html https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-6.html [post_modified] => 2011-12-27 21:15:42 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-12-28 04:15:42 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10169 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10199 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:03:39 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:03:39 [post_content] => In preparation for loading the engine back in the car, I did some work on the engine bay. Most of the unnecessary holes were filled, seams covered with POR-15 seam sealer, and a fresh coat of flat black covered the metal. I considered shooting it with the body color, but that would have necessitated fender removal, as well as refurbishing the crossmember, steering rack, and a lot of other parts that I wasn't interested in dismantling. [gallery include="10200,10201,10202" link="file" columns="3"] Those of you who have done a build or a restoration know that sometimes, you go through a phase where you just want to do little half-day projects... those small tasks that can be knocked out in three to five hours. That's where I was. I suspected I'd be challenged to make time for reinstalling the engine, so I got a few little jobs done. First, I installed the larger booster and master cylinder that was on the parts car. This, of course, placed the brake lines in a little different position, so there was some re-bending involved... but it came together nicely. While unpacking some stuff in the garage, I ran across a rebuild kit I had ordered for the front calipers. A quick beadblast made short work of the nasty finish. New seals, hardware, and a fresh coat of gold caliper paint gave them new life - these would definitely outperform the stock brakes! [gallery include="10209,10208,10210" link="file" columns="3"] Around this time, we were all settled into our new house and a new lifestyle. The kids had adjusted to a new school and had made new friends. I was throwing myself into work, both on NICO and my projects. I was attending every local track day I could get to in the G35 Coupe, and had taken on the task of supercharging it. Meanwhile, the Z sat idle for another year, engine on a stand, just waiting for renewed interest. I even entertained the idea of selling it, but that meant putting it back together to some extent... there simply wasn't enough time to do what I wanted to do. I was trying to get out once in a while and resume some semblance of a social life, dating a little, and time seemed to fly by. Life went on while the Z sat patiently under a cover in the garage. Hey, every real car guy has that one project that he never really finishes, right? Right. Well, sort of. In fact, that makes a great title for Part 7: Leave it to a woman to get the project back on track. Questions? Comments? Just want to discuss the build? Here's where: Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 6 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-6 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-5.html [post_modified] => 2011-06-26 18:01:27 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-06-27 01:01:27 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10199 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10218 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:04:19 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:04:19 [post_content] => Yep. You read that right. It took a woman to get me back into the Z project - this time, with a vengeance. Those of you who are ONLY here to read about rebuilding a classic Z can just skip on to the next page. Or, stick around and find out how this project REALLY came to get completed. Anyone who's been on NICO for a while knows that I occasionally posted up updates of my project here on the forum. I had a few pics of my cars up on MySpace and Facebook, if only to make it clear to potential dates that I'm a car guy. It helped to weed out the flakes... especially if they know ahead of time that I'm a lot happier in the garage, elbow-deep in old car grime. In fact, after a year of dating, I finally decided I wasn't going to date ANYONE who didn't appreciate my hobby. It's just easier that way. And as you guys know, that kinda limits our options. As luck would have it, one evening I got a message from a new forum member, nissangirl74. She complimented me on the color choice for the Z, and asked specifically what color it was... Which was followed by a wisecrack: "I'll be surprised if it ever starts again, considering you painted it a Honda color." Wait, what? Now my interest was piqued. Turns out, her favorite car design is the 70-73 240Z. She's owned four Datsuns, and knows cars pretty well. Is this someone's idea of a cruel joke? A single girl who likes cars? Our online chats grew longer - several nights were spent chatting into the wee hours on AIM (sometimes straight on through to the morning: "CRAP, I gotta leave for work!"). She lived in Tennessee, I lived in Arizona. 1900 miles apart... but I really, really enjoyed our long talks. She'd send me links to ebay auctions for Datsuns, which we'd critique (or drool over). We'd discuss stuff happening on the forums. We talked about our kids, our jobs, our hobbies, our past, and life in general... we covered a lot of ground in those marathon chat sessions. Seemed like we were on the exact same page on everything. I'd find myself hurrying home from work just so I could chat with her longer. Crazy? Yeah... Very. Coincidentally, an upcoming business trip was taking me about a hundred miles from her hometown in a couple months, and I asked if we could catch up for dinner while I'm there? It's a date. No, it's not. Well, sorta. We even laughed at the thought: What if we meet and really like each other in person? Wouldn't that be crazy? And even if we did, then what? Argh, no sense getting your hopes up - there's gotta be a catch. No one gets THAT lucky. Hell, I didn't even have a clue what she even looked like... but no matter how insane it sounded, I couldn't wait to meet this girl. A couple weeks prior to leaving for TN, state budget cuts necessitated a cancellation of the conference. No way! Screw it, I'm going anyway. I messaged her that night, told her what had happened, and asked if I could still come out for a visit. A six-hour flight for a first date? Hey, stranger things have happened - besides, now we'd have more time to hang out. I booked a round-trip flight and a rental car for the weekend, figuring if it doesn't go well, I can always wander around eastern Tennessee or go visit my aunt and uncle in North Carolina. Was I nuts for pursuing this? Stupidest mistake ever? To make a long story quite short, when I arrived at her place to pick her up, I was instantly smitten - she was absolutely gorgeous, and more fun in person than online. We hit it off right away, and spent the whole weekend together touring eastern Tennessee and getting to know each other. I hated coming back home. Another month of online chats and phone calls, and we decided to attend the 2009 Nissan Convention in Savannah together. It was then that I popped the question... Yes, on our second date. With no idea how we were going to make it work, we started making plans. Leaving Savannah (and Becky) for the next two months was the hardest thing I've ever done, but I knew I had to get a lot done before we could merge our schedules, our families, and our lives into one functional unit. A couple months later, we attended the Carlisle NICOfest meet together (our "coming out" event). Becky fit right in, got to know some of the staff and members, and we had a blast. Yet another month went by filled with long chats and longer phone calls... And that brings us back to the car... Part 8: Project 240Z goes from simple restoration to simply awesome. Questions? Comments? Just want to discuss the build? Here's where: Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 7 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-7 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-06-26 18:01:42 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-06-27 01:01:42 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10218 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10227 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:05:12 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:05:12 [post_content] => This is where the restoration turns into a much bigger project - and really gets rolling. Whenever I had talked to Becky about possibly selling the Z, she'd encourage me to press on and stay the course. She even gave it a name: Bella. So, I thought, what better engagement gift than to build her dream car - the car that was the topic of our first conversation. With renewed motivation, I dug in with every spare moment to get the car as close to completion as possible before it was time to go to Tennessee to finally move her to Arizona.
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 8 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-8 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-6.html https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-9.html [post_modified] => 2011-06-26 18:03:43 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-06-27 01:03:43 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10227 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10254 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:06:57 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:06:57 [post_content] => We left off in the last episode with a discussion of the amount of custom fabrication required to perform this swap. And, like we said, it's been done before, but usually involves off-the-shelf parts. Anyhow, there's a lot that has to be fabricated and modified. For example, the RB oil pan won't fit in the S30 chassis - it's reversed. A lot of people use a RB20 oil pan and external pickup, but that's a huge expense. The L24 engine has a front sump and pickup tube - You need a rear sump oil pan and pickup tube. So, rather than waste time scouring the internet for parts, I sourced a spare L24 oil pan, and Jason sliced off the flange. This was mated to the heavily-modified bottom half of the RB pan (reversed), and the inside of the pan, the baffles, and pickup tube were all modified as well. Custom motor mounts were fabricated to locate the engine in just the right spot - we wanted ample clearance for a large radiator and some good fans and a shroud, but we also wanted some room between the engine and firewall. It needed to clear the hood, but couldn't sit so low as to cause clearance problems. This meant putting the motor in, measuring, making cardboard mockups, removing the engine, test-fitting, re-measuring, and reinstalling the engine a few times until the mounts were just right. [gallery include="10260,10255,10257,10258,10256,10259" link="file" columns="3"]
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 9 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-9 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-10.html [post_modified] => 2011-06-26 18:03:00 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-06-27 01:03:00 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10254 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10302 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:07:18 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:07:18 [post_content] => While Jason was busy designing, cutting, welding, and assembling, I got to work on the bumpers. The rubber had some cracks and nicks in it, and I just couldn't see replacing rubber strips that I never liked in the first place. So, I removed the bump strips and overriders and began welding in all the holes. Now, this was my first real lesson in welding (aside from some gas welding back in high school shop class), and it turns out that this was a good project to start with. As the holes were filled, the clean lines of the naked bumpers told me I'd made a good choice. I still wasn't sure whether they'd be powercoated or rechromed, so we made sure to fill and smooth each weld thoroughly. Darian (our younger son) got in on the action as well - Jason showed him how to use a grinder to clean up the welds and smooth them flush with the rest of the bumper. [gallery include="10305,10306,10307" link="file" columns="3"] Shaftmasters has always been my "go to" shop for any driveshaft work, and David hooked us up right. We sent him the measurements for the new shaft, and it arrived within the week. It's a beautiful piece, and with the length of the RB transmission and the length of the differential, it makes for a pretty short shaft.
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 10 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-10 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-06-26 23:03:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-06-27 06:03:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10302 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10340 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:08:37 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:08:37 [post_content] => Now that the engine and trans were installed, the Z made its way back to our garage to await completion. Remember the parts car that had all the cool suspension and brake bits? They'd been collecting dust in the garage since the project started, so it was time to clean and paint everything in preparation for installation on the car.
The calipers I'd refurbished early in the restoration went on, and I realized there was another small problem: I couldn't find the stainless steel braided lines that came with the parts car! They were in one of the boxes of stuff, but just like several other small items, they somehow disappeared during the move. What to do? I didn't even know what would fit. I mean, we're going from the hardlines on the chassis (original Z stuff) to a set of late 80's Toyota 4x4 truck calipers and 90's Maxima calipers. Online research didn't yield much info, other than a lot of conversions using AN fittings - but I wanted something simpler. I had access to a local shop (Arizona Tube & Hose), and they've done some custom automotive plumbing for me before. Just for kicks, while at NAPA the next day, I asked if they had any old Datsun rubber brake lines. They had a set for a 520/520 pickup for under $10. I figured, "Well, at that price, even if one end doesn't work, I can have the fittings cut off and used on a custom set." On a whim, I test-fitted them in the Toyota calipers - BINGO. There's no way they'd fit the Maxima calipers, right? Wrong. They fit there too! The only obstacle was that the Maxima calipers have an odd location for the line fitting, and it made the line interfere with the axle shaft as it rotated. So, I went back to NAPA and bought a short extension (with a female end and a male end), bent it 90 degrees, and attached it to the caliper - Perfect fitment. [gallery include="10357,10358,10359" link="file" columns="3"] Added fresh brake fluid, and went to bleed the brakes... but realized I'd forgotten to connect the new master cylinder shaft to the brake pedal. After an hour of fiddling with it, it became apparent that the pedal and master cylinder were going to be incompatible without modification, so I removed the pedal and re-drilled the attachment point. NICO Moderator Aaron (Ace2cool) was out for a visit, and lent a helpful hand (foot?) for bleeding the brakes. Three corners pumped up perfectly... one was still giving us fits - no fluid, no air, nothing. Something had to be blocking the line. I tried pumping fluid into the caliper - no dice. We scratched our heads, neither one wanting to think of the hassle of having to trace a blockage in a brake line (or consider the possibility of bad caliper). After lunch, we came back to give it another try.
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 11 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-11 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-06-26 23:48:26 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-06-27 06:48:26 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10340 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10389 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:09:58 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:09:58 [post_content] =>
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 12 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-12 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-13.html [post_modified] => 2012-08-16 23:08:17 [post_modified_gmt] => 2012-08-17 06:08:17 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10389 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10442 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:10:35 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:10:35 [post_content] =>
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 13 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-13 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-14.html [post_modified] => 2011-07-02 19:08:08 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-07-03 02:08:08 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10442 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10569 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:11:40 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:11:40 [post_content] => With a half-day of garage time available one weekend, I got started on restoring the steering wheel. The S30 had a wood-look wheel that was actually a grained plastic of some sort... it's pretty convincing. I started with a light sanding with 400-grit, which really brings out the original color and variations. NOTE: You don't want to sand too far, because the underlying layers are different colors - just take off the layer of wear and finish it off. I took it down to an 800-grit, masked off the spokes, and sprayed the rim with a satin clear coat. After that cured, I masked off the rim, sanded the spokes, and resprayed those in a semi-gloss black paint, just like original. With everything buttoned up, it was time for the Z to take her maiden voyage. Let's ignore the fact that for an engagement gift, it was a year late... So on SuperBowl Sunday, Becky got the keys to Bella and took her for her first drive. Her expression was priceless, and despite the fact that NOTHING had been "sorted" on the car, she was as excited as could be... Never mind the fact that it was built by a couple knuckleheads in a garage, she romped on the throttle and made sure all the neighbors heard it - and the sound of that RB under load through a 3" dump is simply amazing. [gallery include="10572,10573,10571" link="file" columns="3"] I think she likes it. Side note: Speaking of "sorting", this is kind of an archaic term you'll hear tossed about by restorers and hot rod builders. Simply put, it means the process of making a newly-built car driveable. Even a well-planned project will have bugs and kinks that won't reveal themselves until that first drive. It's important when sorting a vehicle that you take a passenger along with a pad and pen (or a digital voice recorder) to jot down all of your impressions. For example, Becky noticed several things that needed to be addressed: The brakes are overly touchy and engage too high in the pedal travel. Similarly, the clutch engages too early in pedal travel as well. The rear end squats on moderate acceleration, rubbing the rear tires on the fenders. The front tires scrub the air dam on sharp turns, and the seat belt buzzer decided to magically "re-connect" itself halfway through the shakedown run... and, as you heard her mention, it acted like it wanted to die out a couple times. All things that could be addressed. As much fun as the 3" open dump downpipe was, it's pretty uncivilized under load and at high rpm's. Not to mention, it hung dangerously close to the ground (as Becky found on her shakedown run). It was time to give the exhaust the attention it deserved. Once again, we enlisted the services of Jason and his Master Fabricator skills. Lengthy discussions ensued, however. See, the S30 chassis doesn't exactly lend itself to an easy exhaust configuration, especially after you hog up the transmission tunnel area with a larger transmission. Yes, there have been a lot of RB swaps into the early Z, but there's not a simple, universally-accepted "best way" to route the exhaust. Complicating matters further was the fact that this car sits relatively close to the ground, and we wanted to avoid scraping over speed bumps and driveway entrances. This left us few options... split the 3" downpipe into a pair of 2" pipes? Cool, but a lot of work and unnecessary expense. Keep it 3" all the way to the bumper? Simpler, but ground clearance would be problematic. How about oval piping? Slick, but expensive, and the transitions are a fabrication nightmare. We learned from the KA-T build on the Droptop From Hell that a small-displacement turbo engine doesn't always need 3" pipe - it performs quite nicely with a straight, free-flowing mandrel-bent 2.5" system. So, we decided to transition the 3" downpipe into a 2.5" system that hugs the underbody closely, and finished it off with a Magnaflow straight-through muffler. We turned the muffler up on its side, just like the OEM system, powdercoated it black, and polished the 3" tip to a high gloss. So, yeah - it looks awesome... but how does it sound? I can tell you this - it's easily my favorite-sounding car in our fleet. It's VERY quiet at idle, smoother and quieter than our Frontier in fact. Under load, at full throttle, it sounds... well, it sounds like an R33. Absolutely gorgeous. While we set about the task of sorting out all the little issues, there was still something missing. Any guesses? Join us for Part 15, and we'll show you the "finished product": Becky's 240Z is finally finished. Questions? Comments? Just want to discuss the build? Here's where: Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 14 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-14 [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-13.html [post_modified] => 2011-07-02 19:08:33 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-07-03 02:08:33 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10569 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 10585 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-01 23:12:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-02 06:12:11 [post_content] => Once Becky drove the car, it really started to settle in - We did it. After all the hassles, the thoughts of giving up and selling it, and the setbacks, it really was totally worth it. Jason took it for a long drive and came back with a satisfied smile - After all, he had put countless hours into the build as well, so it was really rewarding to see him pleased with the way it turned out. But as fun as it is to build and drive a special-interest vehicle, the REAL joy for us is sharing them with other people. There's a local charity car show that happens annually that we've been supporting for a few years, and Becky decided she wanted to debut Bella at the Jennabears Show. But as cool as it was, and as good as it drove, it was missing something - something that would really tell onlookers that there was something special going on here. Stripes? Nah. Too gaudy. Louvers? No, too 70's. Pinstriping? Uhhh, no. Flares? Wait, you're gonna drill holes in those fenders that were so carefully massaged back into shape? Hell yeah, and Becky decided they should be painted gunmetal grey metallic, to match the wheel centers. So, our good friends at Classic Datsun Motorsports in Vista, CA shipped out a set of ZG flares just in time. There's a specialty fastener warehouse here in Phoenix that has a ton of cool hardware, so I purchased a bag of stainless steel allen head bolts and concave recessed washers to secure the flares. [gallery include="10598,10599" link="file" columns="2"] With the assistance of our friend Cody from Desert Datsuns, the necessary sanding, trimming and alignment of the flares was done. By the next day, I had them painted and installed. The result was better than we expected, and I think it really sets off the Z perfectly. The flares were done and installed a couple days before the show, and one more thing needed to be installed. That day, UPS delivered an RB custom coil cover from NICO member and fabricator "bmxarmy". If you haven't checked out his thread, do it - it's awesome! Our local powdercoat shop agreed to do a one-day turnaround on the coil cover, and Becky wanted it to match the wheel centers and flares - I think it turned out awesome. The stock RB coil cover, obviously, is shown in the picture to the left: [gallery include="10601,10602,10603,10604" link="file" columns="4"] We finished buttoning up the car at midnight before the show, and the show was a success. Bella made it there and back (about a 40-mile round-trip in traffic) without incident. Becky had a great time talking to onlookers about her new ride... it's always amusing for me when someone walks up and admires the car, and asks, "Is that yours?" ...and I point to her. (Even more enjoyable is watching them slowly realize she knows her way around a car, and a thing or two about classic Datsuns). Anyway, without further ado, it's time to show you guys how she turned out. [gallery include="10589,10590,10591, 10592,10593,10594" link="file" columns="3"] Becky and I hope you've enjoyed this article series, and more than that, we hope it inspires you to rescue and restore an old Datsun of your own. Thanks for joining us, and we'll see you on the NICOclub.com forums! Questions? Comments? Just want to discuss the build? Here's where: Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 15 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-restoration-and-modification-15 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-07-02 19:51:50 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-07-03 02:51:50 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=10585 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 11066 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-08-14 22:41:02 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-08-15 05:41:02 [post_content] => When Nissan enthusiasts think of ASC (American Sunroof Company | American Specialty Cars), the first thought is often the Nissan 240sx Convertible - a rare enough car in its own right, but nowhere near as rare as the 300zx Spyder Concept that was introduced to the public on March 3, 1992 at the Geneva Auto Show. Back in the 80's-90's, Nissan used ASC as a "coachbuilder" who did the convertible conversions of their coupes to convertibles, with amazing results. Some of the most notable Nissans that ASC is responsible for include the 240sx and 300zx convertibles. But the 300zx Spyder Concept was something completely different - Built for ASC and Nissan by built by Mike Alexander (of the world famous A-brothers) at Metalcrafters, the same custom fabricator that built the 1999 Z concept along with many of the other Nissan concepts listed. Nissan gave ASC a white 300zx 2+2 with instructions to transform it into the "Spyder" concept, which ultimately resulted in Nissan awarding ASC the contract to build the Z32 convertible. Once completed, the 300zx Spyder featured ASC’s radical new articulating hardtop system which revolutionized the modern convertible and ushered in a new era of hardtop convertibles. The Spyder thus became the first modern retractable hardtop convertible, and the very first production-ready convertible Nissan Z. The car wasn't actually titled until 1995, well after it was shown in Geneva, Detriot & Paris as a Nissan retractable hardtop, garnering extreme interest in the Z32 and setting the stage for an enthusiastic public to embrace the 300ZX as seen in the famous GI Joe / Barbie 300zx commercial featuring the Z32. All in all, even though the 300zx Spyder didn't go into production, it had a dramatic impact on the automotive world. In fact, the system would later go into production on the Mitsubishi 3000gt Spyder, Mercedes SLK & Peugeot 206cc. And it all started with a Nissan. Meet other Z32 owners, and read more about the 1990-1996 Nissan 300ZX here. View more pictures of the only existing 300ZX Spyder Concept here.
[post_title] => Z32: Nissan 300zx Spyder Concept [post_excerpt] => Learn about the Nissan 300ZX Spyder, which became the first modern retractable hardtop convertible and the first production-ready convertible Nissan Z. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-300zx-spyder-concept [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 20:18:08 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 03:18:08 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=11066 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 11537 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-06-24 00:39:06 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-06-24 07:39:06 [post_content] => OK, let me preface this article by saying that our 2005 Frontier 4WD Crew Cab 6MT is quite possibly the most trouble-free, perfectly-constructed vehicle we've owned. It simply does everything we want it to do in style and comfort, and it's required minimal maintenance. The truck was remarkably well-outfitted from the factory, so it's really hard to be critical of the features - but there is this one little issue that's always bugged me... Lowering the tailgate requires both hands. Sure, the latch works great, and it's easy to open, but the problem is that it's heavy. So if you're small, or you're carrying stuff, you've gotta use your leg or hip to let the gate down gently. No more. When I was at SEMA, I ran into Spencer Lea, Sales and Marketing Coordinator for Stabilus, manufacturer of gas-charged lift struts for most any vehicle, and he showed me their new product: EZdown. Now, the new Nissan Titan has this feature optional from the factory, but not the Frontier. Once Spencer showed me how easy the install is, and showed me a quick demo of how it works, I had to have one. For less than $40 and about 15 minutes of my time, the tailgate on our Frontier now has a nice gas shock to lower the gate slowly and quietly. It was a super-simple install, looks great, and makes opening and closing the tailgate a breeze. [gallery exclude="11544" link="file" columns="3"] Want one? Post up in the thrad (linked at the end of this article) and we'll look into getting a group purchase done (to save you guys some money)! Once you get your EZdown installed, show us your installation (or ask questions) in the following thread: Nissan Frontier Tailgate Damper Install Enjoy, and happy truckin'! [post_title] => Best modification I ever did on our Frontier! [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-frontier-ezdown-tailgate-damper [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 00:35:50 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-04 07:35:50 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=11537 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 11924 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-01-24 09:49:07 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-01-24 16:49:07 [post_content] => Tech Article: Don't Install a BOV on a 300ZX Composed by: 300ZXttZman By: Greg @ Specialty Z Here's why you won't want to install BOV's on a engine with a MAF sensor: When you make any positive boost and you close the throttle without a BOV or recirculation plumbing, the pressurized air will stop moving and stall the turbo. Blow off valve: What a BOV does is open a valve when you let off the throttle by way of engine vacuum, this allows the air to be released into the atmosphere. This is better for the turbo than nothing in the system because it allows to turbo to keep spinning. The problem with a blow off valve in a MAF sensor set up is that because the turbo is still spinning, new air is being pulled into the turbo from the air filter and is being measured by the MAF sensor. So the ECU believes all the air coming into MAF is going into the engine that is now being pushed out into open air. So when you hear that sound of air rushing, the engine is pumping fuel in for all that air you hear coming out. This causes the engine to want to stall, because it is being flooded with fuel. The engine wanting to die is one thing, the other is that all the unburned fuel going into the cylinders will not burn and this washes the lubrication off the cylinder walls and the engine rings, creating premature engine wear. The plumbing on a Z with MAF's is not designed to work with a BOV and you can not tune it out. A MAF measures the air being drawn past the air filter to allow the ECU to calculate the fuel needed. The MAF needs to be measuring the air and the ECU has no way of knowing when you're blowing some of the air outside the engine. What a MAP sensor does is measure vacuum and pressure in the intake manifold to tell the engine management how much fuel is needed. So it does not matter what happens in the pipes before the throttle body with a MAP system, as the MAP only measures what happens in the engine and not what is happening BEFORE the manifold. BOV's work fine on MAP set ups, but a recirc valve is always better, as it is helping to keep the turbo spinning by feeding the turbo air. Recirculation Valve: The stock Nissan recirc valve is larger than most aftermarket BOV's. The stock Nissan BOV is also stronger than most aftermarket BOV's. The stock recirc's can handle more than 40 PSI boost pressure. What a recirc valve does is similar to a BOV, but better. Just like a BOV the recirc valve opens when it gets a vacuum signal - the difference is that instead of allowing the air to be blown off into the atmosphere, the recirc valve blows the air back into the front side of the turbo. What this does is let the air out from the pressure side of the turbo and blows that air back into the suction side of the turbo. The air pushing back into the front side of the turbo is helping it keep spinning because it is recirculating the air. The air simply goes out of the turbo and right back in. Because the air that is coming out of the turbo is going right back into the turbo, no new air is being pulled in through the MAF because the air is going in a loop. Removing the stock recirc makes zero sense and will only cause issues with stalling and filling your crankcase with fuel. As long as you run a MAF you should never install a BOV. Now, the reason some BOV's cause less problems is that they come with different springs, a heavier spring requires more vacuum to open the valve. The problem with too stiff of a spring, is the valve is not opening enough, this will cause compressor surge and is hard on the turbos. Special thanks to Greg @ Specialty Z Enjoy this article? Come discuss it in the 300ZX forums!
[post_title] => Z32: Don't install blow off valves on a 300ZX [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => z32-300zx-blow-off-valves [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-02-12 16:03:58 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-02-12 23:03:58 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=11924 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 11933 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-01-24 20:23:32 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-01-25 03:23:32 [post_content] => How to: "The Flower Pot Mod" Solves Z32 Stumble and Hesitation BY: 300ZXttZman This is a modification that I have been using for some time now on dual intake vehicles to correct issues from erratic MAS readings causing stumble issues when the intake filters are low enough to be exposed to the high-speed ram air entering the front of the car. These images are on my personal Z equipped with the XStream DOOLZ intake but this will also work with vehicles equipped with just about any other dual intake and the JWT pop-chargers. Here's what you'll need: Drill with 1/4" bit Tin Snips Paint for plastic, your choice of color Sharpie Marker Flower Pot The plastic flower pot used is available at Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware that has a gardening section. I've bought them from all three places over time. Sold for $2.35 each. Drill a hole in the base of the flower pot in the center. Trace your cut lines as you see here. You want to leave a baffle area that is slightly greater than 50% of the circle to baffle the front of the filter with. Look down at lower images for a better view of what you are trying to make. This is what your part should look like after the cuts and a testfitment of the baffle. Trace out holes with this approximate shape/area. These are to open up the baffle at the base to improve airflow into the filter. Cut out the tracings. I used a Dremel, but if you dont have a dremel, you can use ~5/8" drill bit to perforate this area. I like to use a blowtorch to cleanup cuts in plastic parts - it removes any chips and cleans up the edges where the plastic was cut. Go lightly though and don't leave the torch in one spot - it will quickly melt and ignite the plastic. You can skip this step if you like - just a little tip. Clean up the plastic with soap and water to remove any oils. Paint the baffles with your color of choice. Here is a testfit and installation of retaining nut to hold baffle to the filter. Here are the baffles installed onto the car. You want to make sure that they are oriented such that you dont see any of the filter element when looking into the front of the fascia - also make sure that both of them are positioned the same. Brought to you by: -Ash Powers ASH-SPEC Performance and Tuning [post_title] => Z32: "The Flower Pot Mod" Solves Stumble and Hesitation [post_excerpt] => Here's a low budget, easy-to-do modification that will help resolve stumbling and hesitation issues in 300ZX's fitted with dual cold air intakes. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-stumble-and-hesitation-fix [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:39:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:39:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=11933 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 12104 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2012-02-04 22:27:14 [post_date_gmt] => 2012-02-05 05:27:14 [post_content] => Nissan has teamed up with The National Auto Sport Association (NASA) to create an all-new racing series that will feature the Nissan 350Z. The NASA Spec Z class is open to all trim levels of the 2003-2008 model year Nissan 350Z. The goal of the Spec Z class is to encourage close competition, evenly-matched cars, and racing that most anyone can afford. By keeping the cars evenly-matched, the series will showcase driving ability and car setup skills. NASA Spec Z offers a comprehensive contingency prize program for both Regional and National Championship competitors. Nissan Motorsports will provide significant support for the series, and their contingency prize program provides cash rewards up to $850 for the top three finishers at each regional competition weekend. Additionally, Nissan Motorsports will provide $6,500 in cash support to the top Spec Z finishers at the 2012 NASA Championships. Spec tires for the Spec Z class will be BFGoodrich branded, and BFG has created an additional (and generous) contingency prize program for the series. Even more contingency prize programs for the Spec Z class are being finalized for the series and will be announced shortly. Ron Stukenberg, Senior Manager of Nissan Motorsports Marketing agrees. Ron adds, “NASA has a proven track record of growing classes from the ground up, so we are excited to be working with NASA on the new Spec Z series. We have a number of competitors already expressing interest in the series, so the potential for this series is very strong indeed. With our Nissan Motorsports Competition Parts Program and comprehensive contingency prize programs, we are looking to make this a strong offering for those interested in stepping into a very competitive spec series racing the iconic Z car.” "We are very excited about Spec Z,” said Jeremy Croiset, NASA Sponsorship Manager. “We have been working closely with Nissan Motorsports on the creation of Spec Z, and it will be an excellent series for anyone looking to step into a spec vehicle that’s fast and relatively inexpensive to build, maintain and race. With the fantastic contingency prize programs that are being provided for Spec Z, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more rewarding spec series to race in. We look forward to watching Spec Z grow and flourish in the coming years as more racers adopt this new formula.” So, can we now expect used Z prices to level out, and maybe even inch higher? Will the 350Z become this generation's 240sx? I'd be inclined to think so. Spec Z represents an affordable and competitive way to get more drivers hooked on weekend racing, and this bodes well for both enthusiasts and Nissan. We here at NICOclub.com would like to congratulate everyone involved, and send out a special "Thanks" to Ron Stukenberg and the team at Nissan Motorsports Marketing for bringing the competitive spirit back to Nissan. For those of us who grew up watching 240Z's, 510's and 300ZX's dominate motorsports for over two decades, this is a welcome announcement. For complete details on the new series rules, please visit http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules. For details on the newly-announced contingency programs for the Spec Z series, please visit https://specz.nasaseries.com/ . And, if you'd like to comment or discuss this article, here's your chance: Discuss Nissan's new Spec-Z racing series!
[post_title] => Nissan and NASA announce New Spec 350Z Racing Series [post_excerpt] => Nissan takes another step towards a full return to motorsports, teaming up with NASA to create an all-new racing series featuring the 350Z. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-nasa-spec-350z-racing-series [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2017-04-10 22:21:18 [post_modified_gmt] => 2017-04-11 05:21:18 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=12104 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 12507 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2010-03-21 06:35:41 [post_date_gmt] => 2010-03-21 13:35:41 [post_content] => By: z32pilot62 Composed by: 300ZXttZMAN When you put HID's in your headlights and you are on the highway, it's very nice to not have to turn them off every time you turn on your high beams. This also increases their life... In the image you will notice that the YELLOW arrow points out the factory connector that is connected to the low beam headlight (LBH). The RED arrow is the negative wire (green with yellow stripe) for the LBH and the one that needs to be looked at for this mod. The BLUE X marks the positive so do not worry about it. The GREEN arrow is the wire loom extension that came with my HID kit and the one I chose to hack up for my mod to save the factory loom. Now in this image YELLOW is the factory connector and GREEN is my extension. The RED arrow again points to the negative which is what we are using. The WHITE circle is the butt connector that is splicing the new ground into the mix. As you can see with the black lines on one side is a single wire and the other has two wires, one is to complete the circuit and the other is the new wire we are adding. Make this spice on either your factory loom or if you get the extensions like I did do it there so you dont hack up your factory loom. In this image you can see where I decided to mount my new ground and I'm sure you are noticing that there is no connector on the wire. Its bare wire to metal... not the most ideal thing to do but let me run this by you, what happens when you ground a ground? This is a temporary solution until i sell my car at which point it will be removed anyway. Questions or comments on this article? Click here!
[post_title] => Z32: Headlight Conversion - High / Low beam lights together [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-headlight-conversion-high-low-beam-lights-together [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:26:26 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:26:26 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=12507 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 12540 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2010-03-21 08:21:00 [post_date_gmt] => 2010-03-21 15:21:00 [post_content] => by: rockchucker After replacing all of my suspension components on my 300ZX I found that my wheel offset was not enough to bring my front wheel flush with the body... So I measured the distance it was off and ordered a Version 1 Ichiba Hubcentric 15mm spacer kit with new longer wheel studs. The version 2 kit has an adapter that you attach to your existing sheel studs. Then the plate has new wheel studs in it. It's a bit more robust (and potentially safer), but we're not using a huge spacer. Once you get your car in the air and properly blocked, here are the tools you will need... Remove your wheel... Remove the two Brake Caliper bolts and the spring clip for your Brake Line (red dots)... Also, now is a good time to spray some PB Blaster on your lug studs (front and back) and let it soak in for a while. Remove your Brake Caliper... Remove the Brake Rotor and align the wheel stud with the recess for removal (red dot). Spin an old lug nut on to the wheel stud to be removed. NOTE: DO NOT use a closed-ended lug like I am using here. Why not? Because if you mushroom the head of the nut, and you damage the threads, you're not getting the nut / stud assembly to come out of the hole in the hub without cutting the stud. Strike the lug nut hard and square with a HEAVY hammer. I used a 4lb mini sledge - It helps if you stand up and hold the hammer with the head pointing down - Kind of like using a croquet mallet! The stud is out. If the stud was broken to begin with then you will sometimes have to use a cold chisel or a punch to remove the remains of the wheel stud. Once all of the wheel studs are out you will simply insert the new stud through the recess and make yourself a stud puller. Get a few large nuts and washers (these will be used as spacers). You can start with one, but as the stud is pressed into the hub, you'll want to remove it, add a couple washers or another nut, and pull it in further. They have to be strong due to the force it takes to get the wheel studs pressed in place. You *CAN* use an impact gun, but don't go crazy - You need to make sure you don't overdo it once the stud is in place. Here's the stud FULLY SEATED!!! THIS STUD IS NOT A FULLY SEATED STUD AND IT WILL FAIL IF DRIVEN ON!!! This also shows what happens when you do not keep your stud aligned with the recess for stud removal. You screw up your backing plate like a MORON... Repeat the process 4 more times and you are golden. Install the Brake Rotor, Brake Caliper bolts and spring clip. Slide your Hubcentric Spacer on... Install your wheel lug nuts snug, lower the vehicle then torque the lug nuts to specifications. Never torque the lug nuts for your wheels in the air. Always snug them up then drop the car then torque to spec. Here is where she sits now. Very flush and very nice... Hope this helps - If you have any questions or comments on this article, please ask them here: 300ZX Discussion: How to Replace a Wheel Stud and Install Wheel Spacers
[post_title] => Z32: Replace a Wheel Stud and Install Hubcentric Wheel Spacers [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-how-to-replace-a-wheel-stud-and-install-wheel-spacers [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-02-21 01:44:29 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-02-21 08:44:29 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=12540 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 12661 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-04-15 22:40:02 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-04-16 05:40:02 [post_content] => Some Z owners are lucky enough to have the padded arm rest on their interior door panels, but most Z32's did not come with them...but you can easily make your own if you have some handyman/hobbyist skills, and access to some hobbyist type tools. Here's what we're going to make: You'll need: 1. 14"X14"X1/2" plywood scrap split in half, preferably a quality 7+ wood core interior-quality piece. 2. 6"X14" scrap of any 1/4" plywood or MDF, for edge buildup. 3. Two 6"X12" fabric pieces of the cloth you want the arm rests in- preferably a good match to your door panel insert material. 4. Jigsaw/bandsaw to cut your shapes. 5. Upholstery stapler and compressor, with 3/8" staples. Regular staple gun MAY work with softer plywood or MDF, which I don't recommend for weathering purposes. 6. Some foam padding of a suitable thickness you want. I recommend at least 1/2" total thickness, I used five 1/8" thick pieces myself. ALSO, you may choose to use a layer or two of neoprene (the stuff that soft mousepads are made of). Closed-cell foam is more durable and a little stiffer, which is good! 7. Spray can contact cement, heavy duty quality that "webs" when sprayed to work with cloth- NOT Spray 90 brand, or the type in a can for laminate work. 8. Four 1/4-20 bolts at least 1-1/2" long with 8 larger (1" or less) flat washers and 4 lock nuts, or use blue loctite. 9. 5/16" drill bit and drill for bolt thru-holes, and a suitably-sized (1/8" max larger) spade bit to "bury" the bolt heads. 10. Elmer's yellow wood glue or similar woodworking glue. 11. Razor utility knife or sharp pocket knife. 12. Pencil and some flat cardboard or stiff paper...thin smooth cardboard works best. 13. PATIENCE You begin by making an over-sized stiff paper or cardboard template of the general shape of the armrest area of your DS door panel. Lay the over-sized template piece in the area you want the arm rest- the stock Nissan rest starts at the end of the switch cover and stops before the seat belt slots, but I made mine go all the way to the back so you can do either way with this how-to. Cut your template piece to a general shape to fit the door panel area, then using a pencil to ride along the upper door panel surface, trace the contour shape then cut template material until it fits in smoothly to the contours of the door panel. Be sure to include the plastic cover piece on the door panel split if you are going the full distance style arm rest, along with tracing the position and size of the seat belt cutout from inside the door panel. Then tracing from below on the outside with the pencil, mark the edge of the stock arm rest/panel on the template to mark the actual width to cover the arm rest, then mark the start/stop points for total length depending upon the style you are making, then remove and add curved outside corners. You definitely want the curves for your elbows sake, and should be about a 1" radius. Flip the template over and add about 1/2" width to your outer edge mark and then cut it out a little big, checking and cut/fitting until the entire template looks right but with 1/2" extra width along the long side overhanging your original arm rest area and 1/4" on the end if doing the full length style. Start over if necessary, the template being correct is very important and took me three tries to get just right. Mark the template "Top" and then flip the first template and trace onto a second template piece for the PS door panel, marking the second template "Top" immediately and then cut it out and fit it as well- it should be very close to the shape of the first side but may need tweaking. Next you'll want to figure and mark two holes for the mounting bolts that will fasten the armrest to your door panel. I biased the holes to the back edge of the arm rest towards the door panel (see picture below for hole layout) so the bolts would pull my arm rest evenly down and towards the door panel side, and not tilting down- I believe it was at about 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" from the inside panel edge, and about 1-1/2" from the front edge and about 3/4" from the seat belt slot. Next, trace these two different templates onto your 1/2" plywood and cut out the two pieces, marking them both with a "Top" mark before any further work, and sanding the edges until the shape is smooth and fits your door panel well. You may want to ease/angle the bottom edge of the panel side of the blank to help it fit tight. You can see these details here: Then you'll want to hard-ease the three outside top edges and including the bottom edge of the buildup, I used a 1/4" bullnose/roundover bit on a router but you can simply block/hand sand until the right shape...remember, your elbows will hit the edges! Using the template mark the bolt thru-hole locations. TIP- You'll want to use the spade bit FIRST, drilling JUST deep enough so bolt heads plus washer placed upside down in the hole are even or barely below the surface of the plywood, THEN use the 5/16" drill bit to drill rest of the way through for the bolts to pass through. You'll then want to set the blank onto your door panel, and as carefully as possible re-trace the flush outside panel edge onto the bottom of your wood blank (you could also transfer it over from your template pieces). You will then cut your 1/4" plywood/MDF to the width of the distance from the line to the edge of your blank then align this 1/4" piece with the mark you made (MAKE SURE this mark is slightly back from the door panel armrest area edge) and either staple them on with a little wood glue, or simply masking tape/glue them in place until dry. The picture above shows how the buildup is placed. Be sure to go the whole distance with your buildup and trim/sand the ends/edges to be neatly flush. If you do the full length arm rest like mine you may want to add small buildup pieces on the ends sanded to fit into the curve for best look/fit when all is done. It may also be necessary to bevel or rabbet out the back edge of the blank so your cloth doesn't bunch up and hold the armrest up at the back edge. Once everything is set you will remove the bolts and carefully place the blank where it will sit FOR SURE on your door panel, and then carefully drill holes through the blank holes and through your door panel arm rest! Then remove the blank and BE SURE to put the bolts/washers back permanently in place- a dab of epoxy to immobilize the bolt head and top washer ONLY wouldn't hurt. The blank on the left is what your "blank" should look like before moving on: Next you need to lay out your padding and cloth, cutting both to leave PLENTY of extra size each direction to start. Use spray contact cement to glue your padding on to the blank starting in the middle-outwards, trimming the padding flush along the door panel side. Everywhere else you will wrap the padding under and over the 1/4" buildup, where you'll then trim it flush. This is good practice for the cloth part coming up...note how things bunch up at the corners, and how you must cut the wrap pieces into "triangles" to make it all fit and sit down without a big messy pile. You will also want to "cut in" the seatbelt slot if doing the full length version, and also fit your plastic piece at this point so it sits flush with the padding but not sinking in- once you put on the cloth layer this will allow the room for it to "seat" correctly. You will want to use a pocket knife/utility blade to try and make slots in the seatbelt slot the for the "ears" on the plastic piece so it holds itself in, although you can also use electrical tape or duct tape to make it jam in if your slot is too large like my first one. You can see the various stages on the blank on the right- note the basic shape, flushed bolts, and how the buildup, padding, and seatbelt slot is done: Next you will spray contact all surfaces and place the cloth surface on centered, working from the center and being careful to work from the middle towards the ends, stapling lightly as you go. This is the tricky part as you will be pulling a lot more to fit the corners, and may need to remove a few staples to reposition the cloth...bottom line is don't over staple until you are done, and don't cut away too much excess material until you are sure of your fit. A trick I found was to pull the fabric "triangle" tight and use one staple into the buildup, then pull further and staple to the bottom of the blank. Then if you wanted more pull you could staple into the back edge of the buildup, or release pull/move the fabric when fitting a corner by removing a staple or two with a small screwdriver. If you have a more stretchy fabric you will be better off at the corners and overall. Here's how mine looked from below after this stage, you can also see the notches to seat the seatbelt plastic piece: Once you have both done to satisfaction you will attach them to your door panel as so. As you tighten the bolts the arm rest should start to "level out" as it seats into the panel padding, tighten until you get the fit you want and use loctite if not using lock nuts: Finished shots: Cost can be minimal if you have access to scraps and a few bolts and nuts/washers, but still not too high even at Home Depot retail. The skill level may well be moderate to slightly above moderate given the templating process, and potential difficulty of getting the fabric right as well as access to an upholstery stapler. I also added padding and same cloth to the console cover to even them out and add comfort for daily drives. Enjoy! If you have questions or comments about this article, here's the place to dicuss it: 300ZX Padded Arm Rest DIY
[post_title] => Z32: How to make padded armrests! [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => how-to-make-padded-armrests-for-your-300zx [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:37:47 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:37:47 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=12661 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 12765 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-08-13 07:30:23 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-08-13 14:30:23 [post_content] => BY: PhanatikZ32 Composed by: 300ZXttZMAN Z32 COILOVER INSTALLATION Tools needed: - ½" ratchet - 3/8" ratchet + 3/8" extension - 10mm socket - 14mm socket *deep* - 17mm socket - 17mm wrench - Phillips screwdriver - BREAKER BAR!!! - Jack + Jack stands - PB Blaster or other rust penetrant spray NOTE: this installation is for coilovers INCLUDING upper pillowball mounts. If you do not have upper pillowball mounts with your coilovers you might need other tools, such as a spring compressor and your installation process will vary. I will not cover how to disassemble and assemble a shock spring set up or how to install a shock spring set up or coil without pillowball mounts. FRONT STEP 1. Make sure your e-brake is on and the car is in gear to keep it from rolling. Loosen up the lug nuts on both front wheels (DON’T loosen all the way just enough so that you don’t have to worry about the tire spinning while trying to get the lug nuts off after jacking up the car). Jack up the front end and get it onto jack stands. After making sure the car is secure on the jack stands place your jack to the side and finish removing the wheels. STEP 2. Identify the coilover. There are 2 bolts under the car that must be removed in order to remove the coil. There is one 17mm at the bottom securing the coilover to the knuckle and one 10mm/Phillips towards the middle securing the brake line to the coil The middle 10mm bolt goes through a small piece welded on the outer edge of the stock coil that your new coil probably won't have. It's not really that big of a deal, it's just an extra precaution. I left mine free, but if you feel insecure about it you can tape it down to the coil or devise some other way of securing it back where it was... but it really isn’t going to hurt to leave it as is. Next, open your hood and on top of the strut tower there are 2 14mm bolts securing the entire coilover assembly to the strut tower. (technically there are 3 but the 2 on the outer edge are the only ones you want to be worried about unless your coilover does not come with upper pillow ball mounts). STEP 3. Start by removing the 17mm nut from the bottom of the knuckle. There is a plastic piece that goes over the nut that’s kind of annoying to get off, there are 4 plastic hooks resting over the top of the nut you have to pry back and then the plastic piece will pop off. After removing the plastic piece grab your 17mm socket and whatever size ratchet it fits on (you'd better be using a ½ in. drive) remove the nut, (this nut is CRUSTY! You will most likely need a breaker bar for this depending on how crusty your nuts are, mine is a ’91 and I haven’t removed the coilover since I had the car so the nuts were pretty crusty, also I didn’t have a breaker bar so I used an old guitar stand I found in my garage). Remove the small 10mm bolt from its position above the knuckle. Afterwards get up under the hood and with your 14mm socket remove the 2 nuts from the top of the strut over the coilover You will probably need a 14mm deep socket and extender because the nut sits kind of low and I could barely get it off with my regular 14mm, also there is a lot of wires in the way so the extender helps a lot. After you get the 2 nuts off the top of the coil if it doesn’t feel loose already place your hand on top of the spindle or the brake and push down (since the top nuts have been removed the coil is no longer secure to the strut so pushing down on your suspension will cause it to come down), push the coil down and pull it out of position so its leaning towards you. This should make it easier to slide the bottom off of the bolt securing it to the spindle. If it doesn’t slide off, spray some PB blaster or wd40 onto it to lube it up a bit. Slide the coil off of the bolt and it should be free for you to pull from beneath the car. STEP 3B You might need to prep your coilover before putting it on. Check and make sure the spring rates are the same by measuring the springs on both of your front coilovers to verify they are the same length if not follow the instructions included with your coil to adjust the spring rates. You also might need to raise the coil a bit. Mine came WAY too low so I had to raise them up an inch on both sides so the tires wouldn’t rub. If you don’t know how to raise or adjust your coils I STRONGLY suggest you read the manual and figure it out before you get the coils on the car because you may need to remove them to make the adjustments you need. STEP 4. Get the new coil and remove the 2 nuts from the top of the pillowball mount, if it came with them, if not you will have to use the old ones. Start by lubing up the new one and sliding it onto the bolt at the bottom of the knuckle and securing it in place with the old 17mm nut using your 17mm socket (your coilover will most likely NOT come with a new 17mm nut so you will have to use the existing one DON’T LOSE IT). You should notice by now that your coilover is much shorter than the old one, this is how it’s supposed to be, so don’t have a nervous breakdown! Simply get your jack out again and place it below the knuckle. Jack up the suspension and line up the bolts on top of the pillowball mounts with the holes in the strut tower. You might need to turn your pillowball mount to get it aligned - don’t worry about spinning it, you're only spinning the spring and the mount around the shock, you're not hurting the shock. After you jack the suspension up until the bolts slide through the holes get under your hood and secure the coilover in place with the 2 14mm nuts using your 14mm socket. Make sure all nuts and bolts are tight and repeat all 4 steps for the other side and you are finished with your front coilovers!! _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ REAR STEP 1 *NOTE* - make sure the car is on a level surface when doing the rear - With your rear end off the ground the e-brake won't do you any good. Chock the front wheels with 2x4's or bricks (in front of AND behind the tires!) In order to get to the rear struts you will need to strip out your trunk. Start by removing the carpet piece and the particle board under it. Next remove the back panel covering the reverse lights. There are 2 big plastic screws you can untwist by hand securing the back panel. After removing those you will need a 10mm socket and the corresponding ratchet. There are bolts along the bottom and behind each panel that will need to be removed. You should be able to find them by looking so I wont really go into detail as to where they are. After removing the center panel, remove the panels next to it. Next you will need to use your Phillips screwdriver to take off the adjacent panels. There are screws along the back side of the shelf behind your seats that also need to be removed. The side panels covering your rear speakers and the shelf will not come off until the panels behind your seat are removed. You will need to remove your shade that attaches to the hatch aswell, just take the hooks off of the window and let it retract. After it is retracted pull up on it so it pops out and place it somewhere out of the way. After the shade is removed you will need to use your screw driver to remove the clamps it was resting in. Next use your screw driver to pop off the panels behind your seat. They are not bolted ore screwed in place they simply pop off. If anyone was wondering where the headlight aiming tools were they are under the panel behind your drivers seat, though how to use them I am still clueless. There should be several nuts under this panel that you will need to remove to get the shelf and the panel over your strut to come loose. Remove those nuts and remove the shelf and the panels. *NOTE* cleaning out your car and trunk would be a good idea before starting the teardown - I got halfway through to where I needed to remove the shelf before I cleaned everything out, so remove your CD collection, drum sticks and “JDM TYTE” HyperREV magazine before you have to remove the shelf. WEIGHT REDUCTION! Once you have the shelf off there is a nut behind it that needs to be removed to get the strut panel off. Remove it and pull off the panel. And pull off the rubber cover over the top of the coilover. STEP 2 Loosen your lug nuts as before and jack up the car and remove your rear wheels. Identify the coilover as before. In the rear, there is one 17mm bolt that goes through the bottom of the coilover and a 17mm nut on the other side securing everything to the knuckle. There is no brake line clamp like in front to worry about, so other than the bolt and nut on the bottom and the 2 on top of the coil there is nothing to worry about. Start by unbolting the top 2 nuts from the top of the coil using your 14mm deep socket, extender and ratchet. Next unbolt the bottom nut and bolt. It’s a bit tricky to get this one off, so get your breaker bar, 17 mm socket and 17mm wrench, use your breaker bar to loosen the bolt, then get your 17mm socket and 17mm wrench. Place the 17mm wrench over the nut on the back of the bolt and use your 17mm socket and ratchet to get the bolt off. Next slide the bottom of the coil off of the knuckle. (You might need some leverage to do this, I had to use my jack to pry it out.) Once this is out of place the coil might actually drop out, if not it might be a little crusty on top so just use your lug wrench or something thin to pry the pillow ball mount down and it should drop out. STEP 3 Prep coilover if necessary. Take off the nuts on top of the pillowball mounts as before. For the rear I found it easier to bolt the coilover down from the top first then jack up the suspension as before aligning the holes in the bottom of the coilover with the one on the bushing on the knuckle. Slide the bolt through the coil and the bushing, and screw the nut on the end as much as you can with your hand, then use your wrench/ ratchet combo to secure the coilover in place. The end! Keep in mind, your coilovers (just like springs) will need a few days to "settle" to their proper height. DON'T get impatient and adjust them for "moar low" right away, wait and see how it looks in a week. It WILL drop as the week goes by. And remember, functionality is cool - A slammed ride looks great, but only posers drop their car to un-usable heights. You'll get the most out of your new coilovers if they're set at an appropriate level to increase handling performance. Enjoy your new suspension, and if you have any questions or comments about this article, you can ask them here: 300ZX coilover installation!
[post_title] => Z32: How To Install Coilovers [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => how-to-install-coilovers-on-a-300zx [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 00:34:48 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-04 07:34:48 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=12765 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 12917 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-04-13 22:39:54 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-04-14 05:39:54 [post_content] => How to Rebuild the Power Steering Pump on your 300ZX by: UberBricky a.k.a. Kevin This is a very simple job to do, for the price of the kit you can't go wrong rebuilding the pump if it is out and of unknown age. I chose to do it while replacing the alternator and a hose. 1. Remove the power steering pump - I had the chance to do this because of a bad alternator, so I removed the fan/shroud/radiator and of course alternator. Once that was out of the way, take the pump out. Use the holes in the pulley for access to the top bolt needed to get the long bolt out, and I found it easier to just remove the bracket and disassemble the works on the bench. 2. Start the disassembly with the suction pipe on the top using a T40 Torx bit, there are 4 of them along with a bracket that comes off: 3. Now you can remove the pulley. There are numerous ways to do this, have a friend hold the pulley while using an impact etc however I was alone so I put a ratchet through the pulley and used a chain grip to hold it in place, using a 19mm socket: 4. Once the pulley is off, you can see the retainer clip that keeps the shaft from walking out. Although there is a proper set of pliers to get this out, I made due with a set of side cutters as they had the sharpest end to fit in the holes. Ghetto, but it worked fine: 5. Next, remove the (4) 14mm bolts holding everything together: 6. The casing will come apart in 3 pieces, with a small amout of persuasion: 7. I started taking apart from one end to the other, laying everything out as I went to make it easier to put back together: The shaft and bearing will have to be tapped out, I used a small block of wood and a hammer to get it out. Make sure the teeth on the shaft are in good shape and that the bearing spins freely. The only trouble I had was getting the shaft seal out, until I smartend up and used this: A normal flat head wouldn't get to the part of the seal that you can tap out, so I used the little pry bar to get in there, one tap and it was out! 8. Clean everything and replace the way it was taken out. You will drop a couple fins from the vanes, and now is the time to remove the rear vanes to delete the HICAS pressure side and plug the hole with a bolt. I would have just done this, however I had already ordered the hose, so I was hooped... instead I did the pump mod removing the spring and plunger on the back side. Since I will be running Royal Purple ATF, I lightly lube things as I reinstall them. A few pics of the cleaned insides: There are two wavey washers on the shaft before the front vanes, dont forget them! 9. Replace all O-rings and both gaskets, this is everything I replaced: Re-assemble the 3 parts, I found it easiest to work from the pulley side to the back, everything should line up without issues. Link for the kit: 300ZX Power Steering Pump Rebuild Kit Questions or comments on this article? Here's the place! 300ZX Power Steering Pump Rebuild Discussion Hope this helps!
[post_title] => Z32: How to Rebuild Your Power Steering Pump [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => how-to-rebuild-a-nissan-300zx-power-steering-pump [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:38:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:38:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=12917 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 12926 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2012-04-14 10:30:16 [post_date_gmt] => 2012-04-14 17:30:16 [post_content] => The Infiniti LE Concept, which makes its world debut at the 2012 New York International Auto Show, is more than just the latest in the series of dramatically styled, technologically advanced concepts from Infiniti. Though sharing much with the stunning futuristic Infiniti concepts that have come before – a sweeping aerodynamic body, an elegantly intelligent interior, inspired driving performance and advanced next-generation technology – the Infiniti LE Concept is more grounded in reality. A production version is expected to reach Infiniti showrooms in near-similar form within the next two years as Infiniti’s first zero emission luxury sedan. "In a future that holds an increasing consumption of natural resources, we will advance our sustainable mobility leadership and expand our EV market penetration with new electric vehicles such as the Infiniti LE Concept," said Nissan President and CEO Carlos Ghosn. "Infiniti is well positioned to deliver the objectives for a sustainable future, relying on our capable, hard-working and motivated team members around the world. We are a challenger." Among the key features and innovations of the Infiniti LE Concept are:
- Luxury sedan style, combining signature Infiniti design cues with EV aerodynamic efficiency
- Exceptional acceleration and re-acceleration, providing a new level of luxury driving experience
- Leading-edge compact Lithium-ion battery technology
- Smart hospitality, featuring a quiet, luxurious Infiniti interior and next-gen Infiniti Connection, Infiniti Personal Assistant and EV connected services
- Innovative, intuitive home-based Wireless Charging System with Intelligent Park Assist
This tool works wonders for projector cleaning, and many other tasks around the car. I took a 1/2 paper towel, folded 4 times (till about 2"x2") stuck my finger in the middle and grabbed it with the grabber. Then fold the towel over the grabber end, and spray with Stoner's Invisible Glass (Or another ammonia-free glass cleaner). No need to remove headlight bulb mount (4 screw metal thing) just stick it in the hole left by the bulb, get past the plastic transition, and wiggle around, you can watch the cleaning through the front. With a head-mounted LED light you can easily see areas you missed when cleaning. Repeat for the other side, reinstall bulbs and enjoy your “new” headlights! This is also a must-do before installing HID bulbs in the factory housings. [post_title] => Z32: Projector Lens Cleaning [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => z32-projector-lens-cleaning [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 23:56:46 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 06:56:46 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=13044 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 13205 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-03-18 12:55:04 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-03-18 19:55:04 [post_content] => By: BigTDogg (MA) Composed by: 300ZXttZMAN Below is a highly detailed color coded ecu pin out for the Z32's produced between 1990-95. Special thanks to Tony for taking the time to make that for everyone to use. [post_title] => Z32: Color Coded ECU Pin Out (1990-95) [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => color-coded-ecu-pin-1990-95-z32s [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:33:10 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:33:10 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=13205 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 13221 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2012-03-18 13:18:29 [post_date_gmt] => 2012-03-18 20:18:29 [post_content] => By: BigTDogg (MA) Composed By: 300ZXttZMAN Below is a detailed diagram of the wiring for the head unit and speakers on most Z32 models. Head unit wiring diagram for 1990-94 Z32's The speaker wiring diagram for Z32's equipped with the Bose systems: [post_title] => Z32: Wiring diagrams for the audio system [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => wiring-diagrams-audio-system-z32 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:29:46 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:29:46 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=13221 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 13246 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2012-01-18 13:37:56 [post_date_gmt] => 2012-01-18 20:37:56 [post_content] => By: BigTDogg (MA) Composed by: 300ZXttZMAN Below is a very nice guide you can use to go to the hardware store and buy polished stainless bolts for your Z32's engine bay. [post_title] => Z32: Metric screw guide to "dress up" your engine bay. [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => metric-screw-guide-dress-up-z32s-engine-bay [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:42:34 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:42:34 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=13246 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 13790 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2012-04-20 22:27:37 [post_date_gmt] => 2012-04-21 05:27:37 [post_content] => Kerryann started drag racing in 1999 and participated in autocross as a hobby with her street cars. After acquiring a sportbike in 2005, she quickly acquired an interest in road racing. In 2006, she began competing locally in her daily driver, a Mitsubishi Evo IX. This quickly turned into competing on a higher level. For the last few years, she's been building a Nissan Skyline BNR32 GT-R and is currently campaigning in west coast road racing and time attack events. At present, she's sponsored by Fontana Nissan / Nissan Race Shop, Cobb Tuning SoCal, and Garrett Turbochargers. [gallery link="file"] I sat down with Kerryann (and you didn't, haha!) and asked her to tell us all about her racing history, her current car, and her plans for the future. Let's see what she's been up to! Hello, my name is Kerryann. This is my Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R. This is one of my actual dream cars, and to say I own one of my dream cars is actually not quite good enough, my desire is to build this tank to compete against her current rivals and technologically advanced predecessors. It may take some time for her to be at that level with my budget, but I'm patient, and this was never really meant to be a short term project or even something I planned on temporarily working on between other projects....this is my "baby", I'm in this for the long haul. When I acquired the car it was already gutted and caged. Problem was the previous owner had not done a very good job in doing so. I still had my work cut out for me before I could even start, if that makes any sense, then again if it had full interior I would have my work cut out for me anyway. The very first thing I did was take the car to Robert Fuller (aka Robispec). Robert is most well known for his ability to fine-tune suspensions, but has many other talents including fabrication. Robert evaluated the cage and found areas that were not properly welded and would have not increased rigidity in the chassis - but more importantly, it would have been more harm than help in the case of a roll over. He addressed these to make sure the car is stiff, straight, and safe. [gallery include="13798,13799,13800,13801" columns="4" link="file"] After Robert's work it was time for paint. I met Kenny from K&W Autobody (now Diamond Hills) in Diamond Bar, CA at Willow Springs at Redline Time Attack, and talked to him about painting the GT-R. After talking to a lot of people I knew in the industry I decided to seal the deal. I am so happy I decided to go with a high quality paint job versus the "cheap do the prep yourself one day paint job" - The car must look good for many reasons...But from the beginning I told myself, only the best for Godzilla. So, off we went, straight to Kenny and Asura at K&W for some aesthetic work. The car had a white, green and black paint scheme that was absolutely hideous and the body panels also had just a few minor dings that needed to be smoothed out. Initially I wanted to have the car painted a clean, under-the-radar color because that had always been my style with cars. I prefer a very clean and close to stock look, with no body kits, vinyl graphics or bright colored paint jobs. My first choice was a Porsche color: Meteor Grey Metallic and after really thinking about my goals for the car in terms of competing and marketability I decided to choose a color that would be a bit more attention-getting but not ridiculous. I decided to go back to her roots with a vibrant, rich shade of red. K&W sent me home with a swatch of colors and I narrowed it down to 3 shades - after much thought and even sitting out in the sun on a late morning per their instructions, I decided to go with Calypso Red normally found on a Lotus. It was vibrant and powerful but not too orange, with no pearl or metallic. Simple, beautiful and eye catching. Done deal - but I had no idea how this was going to look! I never rendered it up in Photoshop or anything, I just hoped it would look as good as I thought it could. All I knew was this was the best choice for me as opposed to the 2 Ferrari reds - one that was more orange and the other too blue. The interior was already painted white but needed to be refreshed, especially with the recent welding on the cage. After dropping off the swatches and letting them know of my decision for the choice of color, I saw they wasted no time with prep - a lot of the panels were already removed! They had begun the process of reinforcing the underside of the trunklid with carbon fiber, so that it could support and evenly distribute the down force created by an APR GTC-300 wing. They sent me photos with updates on the prep work and the beginning of the process of spraying the car. When the car was completed I did not get to see it as it had to be delivered the very next day to Fontana Nissan for their 2nd annual big meet. Prior to my arrival, Emergency Hookers towed Godzilla to the dealership. When I arrived, I said my hellos to all the staff and vendors setting up and went straight to my car. I literally stopped in my tracks and was taken aback by the sheer beauty - it was a whole new car. During her stay at K&W, Seibon had asked to be a part of the build, and installed a TB Style Carbon Fiber hood. The vents offered an escape for hot air to help keep temps down, and it also weighed significantly less than the stock hood. The hood vents could've posed a challenge for design so I told K&W to use their creativity and design a scheme for the paint. I was pleasantly surprised with the finished product of perfectly placed exposed areas of carbon fiber at the exit points of the vents, which they faded into the Calypso Red. They repainted the interior white, and also had some venting on the front bumper painted matte black as well as the lip to create a dramatic but organic effect. It was perfect and I could not have imagined it any better. Overall it was second to none, a hands-down absolutely perfect quality paint job with tasteful design. There were no flaws in the paint and the clear coat treatment offered a pristine mirrored finish. I was floored, in fact at first glance I literally had to fight back the tears because I was so surprised at how well it came out. [gallery include="13804,13805" columns="2" link="file"] That day the car was consistently flocked with admiring staff and attendees. I got a lot of praise for my choice in color and for choosing K&W to take care of it for me. So far the car was a hit with the crowd, and I hadn't even gotten started! Ready to see what's next? We are too! Click here to read Part II and see what Kerryann & Co. did to the GT-R next!
[post_title] => Who's the girl in the GT-R? Meet Kerryann De La Cruz! [post_excerpt] => Join NICOclub as we chat with Kerryann De La Cruz all about her racing history, the building of her current Skyline GT-R, and her plans for the future. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => meet-kerryann-de-la-cruz [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 21:57:33 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 04:57:33 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=13790 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 13812 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-07-20 22:20:47 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-07-21 05:20:47 [post_content] => In the last installment, we talked with Kerryann about the "backwards" build on her Skyline GT-R... We're sure you're ready to get into some more discussion of what this is all about - racing - but there's still some "build" stuff going on. Let's check in with Kerryann and see what happened with the GT-R after the Fontana Nissan meet. After the Fontana Nissan meet in August 2010, I started slowly acquiring both OEM and aftermarket parts for the car, mostly replacing old pieces that were failing - or about to. Nissan Race Shop at Fontana Nissan helped out big time, sourcing some hard to find parts for me. I was also fortunate enough to have Seibon Carbon Fiber include my car in their feature vehicle area for SEMA 2010...This meant the heat was on to make sure the car was ready - We only had about a month! I called on Enkei to provide my all-time favorite racing wheel, the NTO3+M in 18x10.5 +30 (which I subsequently powdercoated satin black). A little about Enkei: I have had a relationship with the company since 2009, working as a booth spokesperson at SEMA. They were generous enough to be my wheel sponsor and have been promoting me as a driver since that time. Even before that, I had been using Enkei wheels and trusted them on my previous track cars, so it was a a perfect partnership! Cobb Tuning SoCal located in Fountain Valley, CA jumped on board to assist with advanced engine work. Buddy Club provided their P1 Racing Bucket seats, rails and harness. Falken provided their RT615K tires in 265/35/18. KW Suspension provided a somewhat custom setup of their Variant 3 coilovers, tuned by suspension guru Robert Fuller of Robispec. Boy, am I spoiled! Not only did I receive support in parts from my generous sponsors but also had a lot of guidance from Mike Kojima - thanks to him I was able to make better decisions with the build, I consider him to be one of my biggest influences when I began building the car. I trailered the car to Las Vegas from Fontana and dropped it off at the Convention Center with the Seibon staff and headed home. When I arrived back at the Convention Center on day 1 of SEMA I was pleased to see Seibon had placed my car at the main entrance of the Central hall, alongside the 350Z driven by Formula Drift champ Chris Forsberg. I felt really blessed to have my car as a centerpiece for the thousands of people who would be passing through the hall over the next 4 days. [gallery link="file"] Not only did I have the privelege of having my car showcased at a prime location during SEMA, but Enkei had included us on a 2 page showcase in their 2010 wheel catalog, and featured me on a poster along with Rhys Millen and Lewis Hamilton! It was really turning out to be a great start to the project and my racing efforts - I couldn't be any happier. Being at the Enkei booth during SEMA, I had many spectators inquire about my car - I was excited to see that despite the fact my car was one out of hundreds at this show, they immediately recalled seeing my car and were very surprised to see the car was owned and built by a woman. After SEMA I was back at it. Once we got home we got everything somewhat sorted out and together. I decided to run the car at Auto Club Speedway at the end of November during Redline Time Attack's season finale, but only on the test day. I wanted to start getting a feel for the car (and driving from the right side) before I really started getting into the power modifications. The test day went ok... I had issues with the fuel pump because of an insufficient ground, so the car was running rich (better than lean!) and it kept dying on track and needing a tow to the pits. Needless to say it was quite frustrating and I wasn't able to get very many clean runs in, and the runs I did get in, I was driving the car at 60% of what I would normally have done, basically limping it around the track just to be safe. It was nice to get the car out and get used to shifting with my left hand, and getting my lines down, but I would have enjoyed it more had the car run smoothly and if I could have driven it with a little more effort. The good news? I didn't break anything! Now it was time to start getting serious for Redline Time Attack 2011, competing in the Modified AWD class. No more fashion, it's time for function. Ready? Stay tuned!
[post_title] => Meet Kerryann De La Cruz - Part II [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => meet-kerryann-de-la-cruz-part-ii [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2012-07-20 22:33:18 [post_modified_gmt] => 2012-07-21 05:33:18 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=13812 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 14701 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-12-26 20:47:35 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-12-27 03:47:35 [post_content] => Here you will find scans of the original wiring diagrams for the Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z and 280ZX from 1970 to 1982. 1970 Datsun 240Z Wiring Diagram 1971 Datsun 240Z Wiring Diagram 1972 Datsun 240Z Wiring Diagram 1973 Datsun 240Z Wiring Diagram ____________________________________________________________________ 1974 Datsun 260Z Wiring Diagram ____________________________________________________________________ 1975 Datsun 280Z Wiring Diagram 1976 Datsun 280Z Wiring Diagram 1977 Datsun 280Z Wiring Diagram 1978 Datsun 280Z Wiring Diagram 1979 Datsun 280Z Wiring Diagram ____________________________________________________________________ 1980 Datsun 280ZX Wiring Diagram 1981 Datsun 280ZX Wiring Diagram 1982 Datsun 280ZX Wiring Diagram ____________________________________________________________________ What more needs to be said about the S30 and S130 Z cars? Legends in their own right, early Datsun Z examples are regularly showing up in venues previously unheard of, such as the Barrett-Jackson auction and the Classic Motorsports Mitty. If you have questions about your classic Datsun, pop in on the Datsun Forum and chat with the friendly Datsun experts! Here's one of the most famous early Z-cars of all time, the personal Z of Mr. Yutaka Katayama, now lovingly cared for by his longtime personal assistant, Ms. Johnnie Golden. "Love cars, love people, love life!"
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z / 260Z / 280Z / 280ZX Wiring Diagrams [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-wiring-diagrams [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2012-12-26 21:11:44 [post_modified_gmt] => 2012-12-27 04:11:44 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=14701 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 15762 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2013-04-02 23:00:05 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-04-03 06:00:05 [post_content] => For years, owners of early Z-cars with lowered suspension and wide tires have struggled with the lack of power steering options for the 240Z / 260Z / 280Z. Lots of classic Z folks will say, "It doesn't need power steering" or "Man up and drive." Well, here's the deal - With an RB swap in our Z, and aftermarket big brakes, it goes and stops with precision. The gas pedal is responsive and light. The clutch pedal is light and easily modulated. And the brakes are similarly "easy", considering the large calipers and oversized booster and master cylinder. So, this results in some disparity in driving - Your feet are taking a light, precision approach to the pedals, while you're manhandling the wheel. Steering at slow speeds is almost overwhelmingly heavy - and that's with a stock-diameter steering wheel. You can forget putting a smaller-diameter wheel in there. Further, I built this Z for my wife to drive. So, the "man up" crowd can zip it. Besides, most of the naysayers are still toodling around on 4" skinny tires, stock brakes, and 120 horsepower... "Man up" indeed. With more than 300-hp on tap, her Z needed a modern steering solution. Regardless of whether you think the Z would benefit from power steering or not, there's simply not a lot of options out there. There had to be a better way - what about all the hot rods out there? As is the case with many of our product review articles, we ran across a company at the SEMA Show in Las Vegas. They were displaying their electric power steering systems for classic musclecars. I spent quite a bit of time chatting with Geoff about cars, specifically modern upgrades to classics. During this conversation with Geoff, I couldn't help thinking that this would be a perfect solution to the steering issues on our Z project. One thing led to another, and before long, plans were laid for a power steering system to market specifically to the Z-car crowd. A few weeks and several measurements later, the prototype kit was completed. First of all, no major modifications are made to your vintage Z-car... Everything is designed to be located under the dash and is almost completely invisible. That's a definite plus, considering some of our early Z's are really climbing in value. Also, the 45-amp system will function with a standard Z alternator - although, for the early Z, I'd highly recommend upgrading to a more modern 60-amp alternator, which is easily accomplished with the help of our friends at Motorsport Auto: Datsun 240Z / 260Z alternator upgrade. This system retains the original steering ratio, as designed by Datsun. It's silent, maintenance-free, and can't leak! Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, the system allows for full adjustability of assist - You may prefer a little less assist, while your spouse may like to dial it up a bit. Another benefit is that it senses steering input torque so that it's not over-boosting your steering effort. We'll discuss that a little more later. Here's some pictures of the Zpowersteering.com prototype kit so you can get an idea for the workmanship and details: Installation is super-simple. I completed the install in about two hours with a helper, and basic hand tools - and I did it without an instruction manual.
[post_title] => Datsun 240Z / 260Z / 280Z Electric Power Steering Install and Review [post_excerpt] => NICOclub and Zpowersteering.com team up to bring an affordable, easy-to-install power steering solution to Datsun Z owners! [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-240z-electric-power-steering [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 00:28:54 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-04 07:28:54 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=15762 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 15792 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2012-01-05 22:22:38 [post_date_gmt] => 2012-01-06 05:22:38 [post_content] =>
Datsun Z-car Print AdvertisementsPrior to the advent of the Internet, advertising in magazines and newspapers was the most cost-effective way for auto manufacturers to tempt the public with sleek and powerful new designs. Datsun took full advantage of these opportunities for its Z cars, with a rich and colorful history of print ads. We've collected some of the best (and some really obscure ones) for your viewing pleasure. If you have scans or images of additional print ads featuring Datsun products that you'd like to see added to the collection, send us an email at [email protected]! Thumbnails are clickable for larger versions - Enjoy!
Datsun 280Z and 280ZXJoin us in the Classic Z forums - Tell us about YOUR early Z or just get information on restoration or modification of your Datsun Z!Datsun Z Forums!
[post_title] => Datsun Z Advertising - 240Z / 260Z / 280Z / 280ZX [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => datsun-z-ads-240z-260z-280z-280zx [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-02-17 20:50:12 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-02-18 03:50:12 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=15792 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 16201 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2011-05-19 21:28:03 [post_date_gmt] => 2011-05-20 04:28:03 [post_content] =>
Staff Bio >> Torry Skurski (EZcheese15)NICO Administrator
Hi, my name is Torry Skurski. I began my interest in cars from the day I was born. My dad worked for Ford Motor Company until I was two years old, at which time he accepted a position as a District Service Manager for Nissan Motor Corporation. As a DSM for Nissan, my dad was always bringing home various Nissan models to drive. My mom always had a company lease car. Every car I ever remember my parents driving was a Nissan. From Sentras to Z’s, Pulsars to Q45’s, I lived Nissans every day. In 1995 my parents bought me my first car, an ’81 210. As any car enthusiast did with their first car, I detailed it to no end, fixed all its problems, and drove that car everywhere. In 1998, I bought a ’98 200SX SE-R (with the help of my parents). I also enrolled at Minnesota State University to attend their Automotive Engineering Technology B.S. program. In school I learned that I didn’t know anything. I learned so much in school about cars. I learned how to truly work on my car. It was the first time I felt comfortable working on any component of my car. In December of 2001, I bought an ’02 Sentra Spec V, finished my classes, and headed to the University of Central Florida where I began my M.S. degree (which is uncompleted). It was there, in FL, that I really started to meet some serious Nissan enthusiasts. It seemed like every week that I was helping somebody out with there car, or vice versa. I only attended one semester at UCF before I moved back home to Atlanta, but I learned a lot those 6 months working on cars. Since then I have worked various jobs including Nissan dealers, race teams, and warehouses. I also spent 2 years working for Precision Tool Repair, where I gained a full understanding of nearly all types of electric motors, pumps, and small gas engines. Currently, I work at Motorsports Authentics (The Nascar merchandising company) as an Inventory Analyst. In my spare time, I continue to contribute to this site as much as I can. I try to attend all the big events that we do, and try to make sure the website is always up to date. That is something I foresee myself doing until the day I die. [post_title] => NICOclub Staff - EZcheese15 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => nicoclub-staff-ezcheese15 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-05-19 21:31:14 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-05-20 04:31:14 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=16201 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 16720 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2013-07-05 23:16:12 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-07-06 06:16:12 [post_content] => The 24 Hours of Le Mans is the world's most famous endurance car race - and as such, its a hotbed of automotive technology development... for example, Nissan and NISMO's ZEOD RC (Zero Emission On Demand Racing Car) electric race car. The ZEOD RC will run at Le Mans in 2014 in the famed "Garage 56" slot. In 2012, the Nissan Deltawing inaugurated Garage 56, a garage reserved for vehicles not entered in any specific racing class but showcasing new, prototype technology. ZEOD RC is a derivation of the Deltawing vehicle that ran out of Garage 56 in 2012, but rather than the previous car's 1.6-liter turbocharged gasoline engine, the ZEOD has an electric drivetrain. Nissan indicated the ZEOD RC will exceed 186 mph on the Mulsanne Straight and is expected to race alternately using gasoline and electric power. Nissan hasn't clarified whether it will use a hybrid drivetrain or a range-extended setup like the Chevy Volt. We're betting it primarily is powered by electric motors alone, with an internal-combustion engine generating power for all-electric running. The battery technology should be similar to that used in the Leaf. Performance-wise, the ZEOD is expected to match that of the LMP1 cars - the top-level prototypes run by Audi, Toyota and others which means it will actually outperform the gasoline-powered Deltawing. [post_title] => Nissan's ZEOD Electric Race Car to Debut at Le Mans [post_excerpt] => Nissan's Zero Emission On Demand Racing Car is set to appear at Le Mans in 2014, running out of the famed "Garage 56." We'll be bringing you updates along the way! [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => nissans-zeod-electric-race-car-to-debut-at-le-mans [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 00:28:04 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-04 07:28:04 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=16720 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 16900 [post_author] => 27 [post_date] => 2013-09-10 17:14:00 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-09-11 00:14:00 [post_content] => For starters, this is just a technical reference to assist other while installing aftermarket suspension on a Z33 chassis. Neither NICOclub, nor myself, are to be held responsible for any damage to your vehicle or any injury to yourself that may occur while installing aftermarket suspension with reference to this writeup. On a lighter note, I will be doing my best to provide the information needed to install Raceland height adjustable coilovers on a Nissan 350Z. I purchased this 350Z in the middle of 2012 to use it as a more comfortable/reliable daily driver than my old Z32. Since then I've been performing minor visual and performance modifications to the Z, slowly getting closer to the Z I've seen in my mind for quite some time now. After many different carbon fiber pieces, some pretty okay wheels, and a couple interior modifications, the time has come install a set of coilovers!! I only removed this arm completely to replace it with aftermarket adjustable units. Finally I removed the 17mm lower bolt on the lower mount of the shock followed by the two 12mm nuts securing the top mount of the shock to the strut tower. Raceland recommends that you do not surpass 5mm of preload to prevent premature wear on the pillowball mounts. To set preload, I followed the recommendations found in NICO's s13 Raceland install, and adjusted the spring perches until the spring moved up and down, then re-tighten the perch until there is no more up and down movement but, you are still able to twist the spring side to side. After setting spring preload, tighten the upper locking perch to the perch preloading the spring, and you are ready to determine your preferred ride height!! The lower mounts front and rear have almost exactly two inches of threads inside, so I assume (to be safe) that maximum height is having a minumum of the two inches of threads secured to the main body of the coilover. For the lowest setting, I completely bottomed out the lower mounts on the fronts, and threaded up the lower mount of the rears as far as I could without having to move the perches up higher, setting too much preload on the springs. After setting your preferred ride height, head back into the fender well with coilover, lower mount first, and install the lower mount with the original 17mm bolt, and the supplied 19mm nut. After getting the lower mount bolted on you can re-install the lower control arm, and camber arm, and procede to jack up on the assembly from the lower control arm while lining up the upper mount with the two studs up top. Once you get the coilover all the way up, you can now re-install the two upper 12mm nuts. Be sure to use the supplied perch wrenches to tighten locking perches. Be sure to double check the torque of every nut and bolt dealt with. Repeat on the other side, and you're done with the rear coilover installation. Re-install wheels, drop the vehicle back onto the ground and get a taste of your new ride height. Before Nissan Z Series Forum Here's a follow-up article on our impressions of the Raceland coilovers after a couple months: Nissan 350Z Raceland Coilovers Review and Impressions [post_title] => 350Z Raceland Coilover Install [post_excerpt] => With a fairly tight budget, and other projects on hand, Raceland's affordable coilovers were the perfect candidate to drop the stance of my 350Z daily driver without taking breaking the bank. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-raceland-coilover-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 00:13:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-04 07:13:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=16900 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 17060 [post_author] => 32 [post_date] => 2013-09-16 07:01:30 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-09-16 14:01:30 [post_content] => This car belongs to Darran Fischer of Australia. 1995 BCNR33 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec Midnight Purple Darran says of his car, "Ever since I played the first Gran Turismo on Playstation, I had to have a Skyline GT-R. I bought the car around 4 years ago as a birthday present." Some birthday present, eh? He also went on to say, "When I had originally set out to purchase a GT-R I found myself being drawn toward the R33, and being a married man with children the extra cabin space sure comes in handy! Also to be honest a dark color was something I was determined to avoid as I have had dark colored cars in the past and was more than aware of the effort required to keep them presentable. However, when this particular vehicle presented itself it was to good of an opportunity to pass on. Plus let's face it, when you see a Midnight Purple R33 you just know it's Godzilla!"
I think the images speak for themselves - There was much work to do, but I was up to the task. I found I had a few bonuses in it: JWT Genie Turbo Exhaust, JWT Pop Charger, KYB AGX Adjustable Struts, Blitz Turbo Timer, Dual SBC Blitz boost controller, Cometic Intercooler Piping, Nismo oil cap, and Stillen adjustable RUCAS. At the time, I knew nothing about the car, so ensued a couple months of reading and researching while removing and disassembling the motor. To jump off the subject real quick, I get asked how I picked the name Shibui for the car. Well, I found a lot of the guys named their cars, so I decided to look for a name that was meaningful and cool at the same time. The word Shibui in Japanese basically means "simple, subtle, and unobtrusive beauty". I thought that would be perfect for the car as the goal for the finished product is an "Adult Sportscar", meaning it's real sleek and fast, simple and clean, has no squeaks/rattles and can be driven as a touring car! Now back to the subject... I planned on doing everything myself minus the machine work. I eventually found a donor motor in Miami that I tore down, had the block bored to fit 88mm Wiseco Pistons, heads checked, etc. It was like Christmas when I finally got the parts back and could start assembly! I had a lot of parts ready to go, here is a list: -ARP Head Studs -Nismo 740cc Injectors (first try was with Jecs 550s – I do not advise) -UR Crank and PS Pulleys -New Fuel Pump -Competition Clutch Stage 2 -GSP Intercoolers -Silicone Boost Hoses -Selin Translator -Amsoil oil-less filters and pre filters -Silicone Radiator Hoses -Bosch O2 Sensors -Megan Divorced Downpipes -Z1 2.5" Test Pipes -Ztuner ECU I also love deleting stuff, so here are the deletes/bypasses I did: - AIV - PRVR - EGR - PCV Reroute - Water Bypass Lastly, here are the maintenance items I purchased and installed: - Full Gasket Kit - Oil Pump - Bosch 02 Sensors - 120 Timing Kit - Main/Rod Bearings - Spark Plugs - Half Moons - Alternator - New Garrett OEM CHRAs (first time I tried to rebuild my turbos myself – I do not advise) So, with all those parts, I was ready to go! I started building the motor following a great thread I found online on what order to do things and the FSM torque settings close by. After it was all done, here is a few pics of the motor: Powerplant installed in the car! ...but just when you think a project is rolling along smoothly, here come the potholes... Click here for Part 2!
[post_title] => A 300zx Show Car from the School of Hard Knocks [post_excerpt] => David Dischler (Z32 Moderator) shares with us the journey with his 1990 Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo (a.k.a. Shibui) in taking it from junkyard dog to show car status. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-show-car-school-hard-knocks [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-01-31 20:24:17 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-02-01 03:24:17 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=19784 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 19810 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2012-01-18 23:30:59 [post_date_gmt] => 2012-01-19 06:30:59 [post_content] => Bring on the ‘School of Hard Knocks’ Well, here come the potholes... You may have noticed a couple of references in my lists above to “I do not advise.” Well, I had a stuck oil jet check valve, that once I built a tool to fix, blew out my turbo on that side. So on went new CHRAS. Then I had constant stutter issues with the JECS 550s, so on went the Nismo 740s. Looking back, I’m glad I upgraded both of those, if only I could know what I know now back then, I would have saved some cash! The headaches didn’t stop there. The first day I had the 740s in, I spun a rod bearing while pushing the car pretty hard. So out comes the engine, get another crank and rod, more machine work, and presto - It’s back in! Yeah? Well, I drove it for a couple of months and it ran great. Then I spun another rod bearing while getting it dyno tuned! AAAARRRRGHHH. At that point I was ready to quit, but thanks to my wife and a few friends urging me on, I decided to buy a JDM motor to use the bottom end. So I did that, and a buddy helped me strip down the JDM engine, inspect the bearings, then install all my new parts onto that bottom end, and finally we had it running like a spotted ape! I drive around at 14 psi right now and it is a blast! I will be getting it dyno tuned in a few weeks again, but we are confident that it will not happen again as we found the original culprit: The first motor’s oil pan was dented just enough to starve the pickup tube at high RPM. Such is life, but I learned and now I’m driving my Z daily! Time to make it look good! Now that the motor was where I wanted it, it was time to make her look good. So here is a list of the items I have done so far for cosmetics with pictures following: - TSW Snetterton wheels - 18x8 front, 18x9.5 rear wrapped in 235/40R-18 Kumho Ecsta LE Sport XL in front and 275/40R-18 in the rear. - Stoptech 12.75” rotors in front with the CZP bracket to keep the stock calipers. - Stock Size Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors in the rear. Top Speed Hicas Eliminator - Relocated the fuse box under the nose panel - Megan lowering springs (rolled the rear fenders and added 5mm spacers to get it perfect!) - Terminator front bumper - Painted the roof black - New shift knob and boot, ebrake handle and boot, center console cover, steering wheel and double-DIN bezel - Window moldings - Removed Spoiler, new TBL and Smoked tails That pretty much sums up where she is right now, but I am not finished yet! My plans are to have it completed to debut at ZdaysZ this year (2014) and take my first trophy. To be ready for that, I will be adding the following: - Twinz Type II rear bumper - New door weatherstripping - Passenger cowl - New foam and tan leather seat covers and trim kit - Shaving antenna, rear wiper, etc - Painting the car Kodiak Brown - Fit and finish! Thanks for reading, and I hope to see you at a show! David (Ziggy1621) is a Moderator in the Z32 forums and a great source of SEO knowledge for the forums.
[post_title] => A 300zx Show Car from the School of Hard Knocks - Part 2 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-show-car-school-hard-knocks-part-2 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-01-18 23:37:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-01-19 06:37:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=19810 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 20102 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2014-02-26 20:51:29 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-02-27 03:51:29 [post_content] => In Memory of CHUCK JEZULIN Editor's note: In 2012, in the process of building NICOclub's Project 510, I stumbled across a Craigslist ad for Datsun 510 parts here in Phoenix. I wound up buying a large quantity of those parts, but more importantly, I came to know Joe Jezulin and learned about his father, Chuck Jezulin. This article has been in the works for over two years. Schedules (and life) have interfered with its completion until now... We hope you enjoy it. Chuck Jezulin was a mechanic almost from birth. At an early age he built bicycles and started driving and working on cars at the age of twelve. He and his father scrapped out cars and he drove and worked on all makes and models as a teenager in Manhattan Beach, California. At the age of 15 he took his first job at a body shop and he continued to learn about cars. In 1960 he worked at a Nash/Rambler dealership and he kept this job as a mechanic for the next few years. In about 1966, Datsun was getting established and Chuck was hired as a mechanic for Torrance Datsun in Torrance, California. Datsun was a new brand and he loved these little cars. In 1968 the 510 was introduced and Chuck quickly mastered this new model. The 510 was an instant hit and Chuck quickly saw the potential to modify this new car. He purchased a brand new 510 station wagon and he also purchased the first of his many 510 two-doors. He began developing modifications for the 1600 (L16) engine and working with different head combinations. As he did this, he won many dealership competitions and he was recognized for the quality of his work. The dealership soon promoted him to shop foreman. He now had keys to the shop to work late and on the weekends. As he did so he began building street race cars for selected customers. These cars soon dominated the California street racing scene and word started getting around that Chuck knew how to make your Datsun run. Chuck Jezulin, shop foreman at Torrance Datsun in California, circa 1978. In 1981 it was time for Chuck to buy his own shop. He purchased a building in Lawndale, California and he only worked on Datsuns. He continued to build race motors and his one-man shop became known for building some of the fastest 510s in the area including a L16-powered dune buggy that could not be beat for several years. In 1987 Chuck started building engines for the dirt track series at Ascot Raceway in Gardena, California. The 510 was a perfect race car for the 1/4 mile dirt track oval and Chuck's engines won again and again, racing against Pintos, Mazdas and Toyotas in the Mini Hobby Stock class. In 1988 Chuck finally started racing. He had instant success, winning several main events and his car was questioned because of how fast it was. If he was around he would tell you that he cheated a little by running a bigger motor... but when you were racing against Mazda rotaries you had to race with more than a 1600. The 1800 was the block of choice, and a restamp on the block was an easy way to cheat. The NICOclub Project 510 runs one of Chuck's 1600 "cheater" valve covers on its built L20b, as a tribute to Chuck. Joe Jezulin (#15) and Chuck Jezulin (#88) racing at Ascot in 1989. June 18, 1989 - Father's Day. My dad (#88) won and I (#15) came in second. Over the next couple of years Chuck worked with several different engine combinations and drivers. These combinations were placing the L series head on the Z22 and Z24 blocks, as well as working with the high compression, big valve heads. At this time, porting and valve combinations became Chuck's specialty. He started using the 1.810 intake valves with the 1.5 exhaust valve in the big port lower compression head and this made the Z24 breathe. The only issue with this combination was that the size difference was obviously taller, so Chuck ran the Z22 with the L series head. This combination was easier to conceal and it was tough to beat. My dad in the shop waiting room (1989). He hated to get his photo taken. Chuck took the Z22 engine combination on the road and he won races at the Orange Show, Porterville, and Willow Springs Raceways in California. At Willow Springs during open practice, Chuck's 510 was paired up with a Chevy Camaro with a 350 motor. In an unofficial race the little 510 easily beat the Camaro. Many people were shocked at what happened... but not Chuck and those that knew his car. The 510 simply had more power and it was displayed down each straightaway. In 1990, dirt track racing came to an end as Ascot Raceway was closed. That same year, Chuck decided to try the asphalt oval at Saugus Speedway. The car set up took a few races to master, but by mid-season Chuck's engines were winning again. At the end of the 1990 season Chuck unleashed his Z24 with the L series head and people were amazed. This engine was a beast and he was able to twist it to 8400 RPM. The engine pulled hard but the rod caps didn't like the high RPMs. Chuck continued to develop this motor and as he finished the 1990 season and raced into the 1991 season, the main event wins kept coming. He eventually solved all of the issues with the Z24 engine combination and his success was noted at the track. Over the next couple of years, Chuck's engines found their way into numerous autocross cars, street racers, Z cars, off-road race trucks and customers' cars who just wanted to run the canyons. Chuck loved to race and his engines proved it. He slowly moved away from the day-to-day maintenance of Nissans and he found himself working more and more on just race engines, and he loved it. In 1995 Chuck sold the shop and retired. He continued to build engines and 510s at home for the next couple of years. He eventually built his last 510 in 2005. He built a 1972 510 two door that had everything on it that he had saved for the last 47 years. This car eventually ended up with Chuck's asphalt race motor installed in it. The car was incredibly fast and Chuck enjoyed the occasional stoplight to stoplight drag race with anyone who wanted to pull up and run. On May 1, 2010 Chuck died in a tragic motorcycle crash. He was riding a dirt bike in the mountains above Phoenix Arizona. Chuck was the only 72 year old guy that anyone knew that was still riding dirt bikes. He loved the thrill of going fast, and on that day he had a smile on his face as he led the group into the last turn that would take his life. Everyone that knew Chuck hated to lose him, but it was a very fitting way for this true racer to go. He died among family and friends, and the last sound he heard was the roar of an engine before God took him home. Approximately a year after Chuck's death, his secret stash of parts were located and eventually sold. Chuck had collected every race part known to man and an enclosed trailer full of parts had been in storage for several years. The secret stash was a 510 enthusiast's dream. Several race engines, suspension components, built heads and everything else that a quality 510 build would take were there. These parts were advertised and several 510 owners responded. The parts, including Chuck's 1972 510, were sold over the next several weeks. As strange as it may sound, it was hard parting with those parts. Each part had a memory attached to it and it was difficult but great sharing the stories about my Dad with each 510 owner that I met. I know that my Dad would love to see where his engines and parts ended up, and he would be proud to hear the stories of how his engines continued to be raced. Reflecting back over the years, it's amazing to see the love that my Dad had for the 510... and even more crazy, that he passed away on 5-1-10. If you'd like to comment on this article, have any questions for Joe about his Dad's racing career, or maybe you even remember Chuck from back in the day, please feel free to pop in and post here: Remembering Chuck Jezulin, 510 Racer and Mechanic. [post_title] => Remembering a true Datsun professional - Chuck Jezulin [post_excerpt] => From wrenching on the earliest Datsuns to hit US shores, to becoming one of the most respected names in the Southern California Datsun racing scene, we remember mechanic and racer Chuck Jezulin... [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => remembering-true-datsun-professional-chuck-jezulin [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2017-08-12 21:30:04 [post_modified_gmt] => 2017-08-13 04:30:04 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=20102 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 20814 [post_author] => 12 [post_date] => 2014-07-01 20:43:50 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-07-02 03:43:50 [post_content] => Face it, you didn't buy a 350Z for the cargo space. But that doesn't mean you can't organize what little space you have - in fact it's just the opposite. Enter the Z Partition. When I first saw this on NICOclub I was a little skeptical about the practicality. The space in the Z is pretty limited and the last thing I ever imagined doing was splitting that limited space in half. Still, I had one shipped to me from the fabricator to try out. The partition was well packed and arrived in perfect shape, yet easy to open, requiring a single cut along one of the taped ends. It's a solid piece without being bulky and the colour and texture of the covering is a near perfect match for the original carpeting. There are no installation instructions because they really aren't necessary, there's only one way for it to go in - keep it flush against the bottom of the cargo area and just wedge it underneath the strut tower brace. There's a handy centre bevel that makes it easy to get aligned. It sits flush with the front edge of the brace and fits just tight enough to stay in place without being difficult to install. It's just as quick to remove and lay flat if you need a larger block of space. I drove my Z with the partition in place for a good month or so. I used it when running errands, on a weekend trip and a during a few day trips, carving mountain roads in the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Smoky Mountain National Park. I was a little concerned that tension alone wouldn't keep the partition in place... However, it endured slinging two liter Coke bottles, an overnight bag and even a trip to Lowe's for some home improvement stuff - it never shifted out of place. The big benefit of the partition is privacy. Normally someone can look straight through the front window and see all the way back to the hatch, but the partition stops lookers from spying what's inside. I like this a lot, especially when I'm traveling or shopping. The Z draws a lot of looks wherever it goes (especially a bright yellow one) and now I can let them look and not worry if my car is being scoped out for a quick smash-and-grab operation. I've discovered a couple of other benefits, one I expected and the other never even crossed my mind. The way the partition separates the cargo area allows me to organize the Z in way I wouldn't otherwise. I normally like to keep a jacket and hat handy in the front area, and during spirited driving, they'd slide to the back. Then I need to get out and open the hatch to get to them. With the partition in place there's no chance of that. I hate driving in a jacket or coat, so I think this will be great in the winter! The other benefit I discovered after a shopping trip. The partition limits the airflow and convection and keeps frozen stuff colder longer, even with the windows down and temperatures near 90 degrees. No more soft, melty ice cream sandwiches! Why Nissan never offered anything like this I'll never know. They made a cargo net organizer that works well and the partition seems like the next logical step. The two pieces really do work great in tandem. But one of them certainly looks a lot better than the other and adds a nice finishing touch (and a bit of exclusivity) to your 350Z. HOW TO BUY?: [UPDATE 3/25/19 - At present, the website for Custom Creations UK is not functioning. If anyone from the company would like to provide updated contact info, please reach out to [email protected]] I recently had a chance to chat with Chris online and had a short Q&A with him. Q. How did the Z Partition come about - did you have a personal need for it, have a friend that asked for it or just thought it was something worth building? A. I noticed that there was no way to separate the trunk from the cabin, to reduce the road noise and tidy up my trunk space! So I decided there must be a 'solution' for it - after several hours hunting I could not find one. Many months later my product is rolling out of our new shop. My whole brand started just selling the dividers, now I sell a wide range of other custom interior and exterior parts and am expanding the shop daily. Q. Did it take long for the prototype development? Was it straightforward or was there some trial and error involved. (I'm a big fan of the bevel along the top edge and was wondering if that was there from the outset or got added in later) A. I can honestly say that it was one of the most annoying projects I have ever worked on, I think that was mainly down to how fussy I am. Everything has to fit perfectly, everything has to match, everything has to be well made and sturdy. It took a good 20+ attempts to get everything perfect (I have actually lost count!) I still own the original, we had several templates made up exactly the same as our perfect prototype, so we use these templates to ensure that every single divider we send out is perfect for our customers. Q. Would you consider yourself a car guy? When you drive for pleasure, what do you drive? A. Over the past 4 years I have owned a few cars, ranging from Fords, Porsches and Nissans to a BMW. I am a real car nut, if it has two seats and eats tyres I’m there! I currently own a Nissan 350Z and a Porsche Cayman S. (yes… Both RWD, Life is better sideways!) Q. Do you have plans for any other vehicle accessories, for the Z or otherwise? A. We are expanding every single day. We are adding a wide range of custom interior parts along with custom engine parts and a wide range of carbon fibre goodies! Keep your eyes peeled! Questions or comments about the 350Z Cargo Area Partition? Ask them here! 350Z Cargo Area Partition Discussion [post_title] => 350Z Cargo Area Partition Review [post_excerpt] => Face it, you didn't buy a 350Z for the cargo space. That doesn't mean you have to settle for an inconvenient design. This product is a must-have for the serious 350Z owner! [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => z-partition-review [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 20:22:15 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 03:22:15 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=20814 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 21806 [post_author] => 21 [post_date] => 2008-01-16 08:31:59 [post_date_gmt] => 2008-01-16 15:31:59 [post_content] => $600 Big Brake Upgrade for FRS/BRZ.. compliments of Nissan and KNS Brakes Credits: Thanks in advance to Ken from KNS Brakes, Mike from TunerZstore, Ken from Enjuku Racing Would you like better brakes for your BRZ/FRS without spending $2k or more? In this article i will show you many options for brake upgrades ranging from professional aftermarket kits to a simple OEM upgrade. Then I will show you a kit that I've installed using a combination of parts from multiple OEM vehicles, source at multiple vendors that will offer better braking power, better heat dissipation, lighter weight, better feel, and all for a fraction of the cost of most upgrade kits. In the first installment I'll share other kit options, my research on my kit, which parts to find, and suggestions on where to source them. In the future installments, I will show how simple it is to install, how to improve the cosmetics so they look factory, and eventually I'll show you how to do the rear brakes (est $400) as well to complete the package. The Subaru BRZ/Scion FRS is an amazingly capable car right out of the box, but it does have some limitations. Aside from the low hp and torque output of the engine, perhaps the most widely agreed upon shortcoming of the FT86 platform is the braking system. Upgrading the brakes can be a very costly modification with most kits requiring a $2000+ investment. I will show how you can assemble and install a Big Brake Kit yourself that will offer more friction, better modulation and feel, greater heat capacity and lighter weight than stock.. all for less than 1/3rd the cost of used Brembo's or aftermarket BBK's. *Please note: If you are not an experienced mechanic, please do not attempt this. It's a simple install, but brakes are of the utmost importance for your safety and even a simple mistake can lead to serious consequences. *Also note: These brakes do not fit under stock BRZ/FRS wheels. I will be shaving the Nissan logo in the future and I will report back to share if that is enough, but I suspect these calipers would require a 5mm spacer to fit the stock wheels. While a simple pad upgrade is suitable for most owners who daily drive and maybe hit a couple auto-cross events each summer, anyone who drives more aggressively will soon find that the stock system is inadequate. While some will argue that stock two-piston fronts and single piston rears have enough force to lock up the rotors and trigger ABS (eventually), everyone should agree that the heat capacity is simply not sufficient and the system will overheat and fade much sooner than desired. To solve this problem many owners invest in BBKs (Big Brake Kits). Most front big brake kits consist of aftermarket 4 to 6 piston calipers and big 320mm+ rotors. They are usually lightweight aluminum calipers and light two-piece rotors. They provide excellent cooling capacity, great feel, and great stopping power. Once you've invested the $2000+ initial cost, they are inexpensive to maintain as you'll only need to replace the outer rotor and pads . BBK's are a great investment for the FRS/BRZ and if you can afford them, I highly recommend buying a professional kit from Wilwood, RB Performance, Stoptech, AP Racing, etc.. Another option for brake upgrade is the stock WRX-STI Brembo setup. The calipers from 04 to current will all fit directly onto the ft86 (with a swap of the bleeders) and the rotors from the 2004 STI's were 5x100, so those are a direct fit as well. These are excellent upgrades and slightly cheaper alternative to the aftermarket BBK's. However, be prepared to shell out some big money. You'll spend on average about $1200-$1500 on used STI Brembo calipers. If the STI Brembos are out of your price range, but you still want 4 piston front and 2 piston rear calipers, you can always step down to the 2006+ Subaru WRX calipers. These are affectionately known as "WRX 4-pots" in the Subaru modification world. These 4 piston fronts will bolt directly to the FRS/BRZ and will offer better feel and more confident braking. However, these too come at a price; They normally run about $800 for a pair of front calipers. They also are known to negatively affect brake bias since the front calipers have smaller pistons than the BRZ's sliders. As I was researching the WRX 4-pots, I noticed that they looked very familiar to me. As an experienced Nissan 240sx owner, one of the most successful upgrades I did to my S14 was a brake upgrade to a set of 300zx brakes. The WRX 4-pots looked nearly identical to the Z32 300zx calipers that I had worked with in the past. After doing some research on a few Subaru forums I found out that I was correct. Both the early 90's 4 piston Z32 calipers and the 2006+ WRX 4-pot calipers were made by Sumitomo and have nearly identical designs. In fact, they use the same brake pads. The main difference is the mounting ears. Enter Ken at KNS Brakes (http://www.knsbrakes.com). A couple years ago Ken saw demand for other impreza owners who wanted to upgrade to WRX 4-pot brakes, but either couldn't find them, or couldn't afford them. So, Ken created a set of conversion brackets to allow the easier to find and much less expensive Nissan Z32 300zx calipers to fit to a Subaru Impreza Hub assembly with a bigger Legacy GT rotor. With the knowledge that Subaru WRX 4-pot calipers fit a BRZ/FRS, and knowing that with the KNS Brakes bracket, the Z32 calipers will fit a WRX, you can connect the dots and figure out that Nissan 300zx calipers should fit a BRZ/FRS. In fact, they do! Not only do they fit and provide an excellent aesthetic and cosmetic upgrade, but they are a highly functional modification as well. The 4 piston fixed calipers typically provide more consistency and better feel. They are lighter than stock by nearly 8 lbs each (if you get the aluminum calipers), and the bigger rotors provide a more effective heat-sink to help avoid fade due to overheating. Plus, on top of these benefits, the increased size of the Legacy GT rotors give more leverage to the front calipers which offsets the small piston sizes. Based on my calculations this setup keeps braking bias within 1.2% of OEM standards for the BRZ. Here's a little background on the parts required to make this kit work. Calipers: The Z32 was made from 1990 to 1996. The best calipers for this conversion are the aluminum 30mm calipers from 1991-1992.5. They weigh in at 6.1lbs each and save nearly 8lbs off the stock BRZ calipers and brackets. The iron calipers also work and are a bit easier to find and a bit cheaper to buy, but weigh more (11.1lbs) than the aluminum calipers. Make sure you get 30mm calipers. For more details on how to tell the differences, see this page: http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm 97.1 oz = 6.1 lbs To find Nissan 300zx (Z32) calipers: Search your local junkyard, try your local auto parts store, Ebay, various online venders, internet forum classifieds, etc.. They are not as easy to find as they once were.. but with some effort you should be able to source a pair of calipers for under $200. You may or may not need to rebuild them, but that is easy to do: How To Rebuild 300ZX Z32 Brake Calipers By the way, if you're worried about seeing a Nissan logo on your Subaru car, don't fret. In a future installment I will show you how to grind off the Nissan logo and put on Subaru decals to make them look identical to OEM Subaru brakes. Brackets: To allow the Z32 calipers to fit on this application you need these brackets from KNS Racing. 300ZX to BRZ/FRS Front Caliper Adapter Brackets See the brackets and calipers attached at the bottom of this picture: Rotors: The KNS Brackets are designed to fit the Z32 calipers to the Subaru/Scion hub. However, to do this, they move the calipers out a little further than stock location. This is a good thing! Bigger rotors mean more heat dissipation and that prevents fade. The 317mm front rotors from the 2006 Subaru Legacy GT (the 2.5 turbo) are the perfect size and keep the 5x100 bolt pattern to make them a direct fit. There are lots of internet arguments over the value of slotted vs. drilled vs. dimpled vs. blank OEM. For the sake of this "economy upgrade" I went with the easily available blank OEM rotors. Truthfully, I might upgrade to slotted in the future because they look cool.. but i think most experts agree that blank rotors are best (Centric Premiums are an excellent choice). Pads: The internet is awash with pad choices and arguments for which is best. For this application you can select whatever combination of cost and quality you wish. You can go with OEM pads for Nissan 300zx (90-96) or Subaru WRX (06-09) and those can run as cheap as $30 or you can choose $300 race ready pads like Carbotech's or Ferodo's. I personally went with Project MU NS400's as they are a high end street pad with some tolerance to light track duty. I sourced my pads from Mike with Tuner Z Store Lines: You will need to convert your lines for this upgrade. The brake lines that I chose for this are for 240sx to 300zx conversions. These lines have the correct fittings to the hardlines at the top and the correct fittings for the Z32 calipers at the bottom. I went with the Isis lines from Enjuku Racing. These Isis lines have a really nice fitting at the caliper so that you can screw them into the caliper and then adjust the angle at which you want the line to come out prior to tightening them down. Plus they are only $50. Ken is a long-time NICO sponsor and provides excellent service and even more excellent pricing. Enjuku Racing Notice the fitting at the bottom on the right.. it allows you to easily adjust the angle of that line before final tightening. Fluid: Technically you don't have to replace the fluid to make this upgrade work.. but come on.. if you're spending the money to upgrade parts, you better upgrade the fluid as well. Having some high quality fluid with a very high boiling point is a must. As with pads, there are many options and you may choose based on your application and budget. I went with Stoptech STR600 fluid from Mike at Tuner Z Store Here's the parts list to complete this brake upgrade: 1.) 2 Front calipers from 1990+ Nissan 300zx (30mm aluminum or iron - don't buy 26mm!). Estimate $180 from ebay, local junkyards, online forums, online part sellers, possibly your local parts store 2.) Brackets and hardware for z32 caliper conversion from KNS Brakes $150 300ZX to BRZ/FRS Front Caliper Adapter Brackets 3.) Rotors - 2006 Subaru Legacy GT OEM front rotors (317mm) Estimate $80 + tax from your local parts store (make sure you get the GT rotors... search 2.5 turbo motor model) 4.) Lines - 240sx to 300zx conversion lines (no banjo fittings like the stock BRZ/FRS). Enjuku is a long-time NICO sponsor and I highly recommend them. $50 from Enjuku: ISIS stainless steel brake line conversion kit 5.) Pads - Your choice.. Estimate $100 for Project MU pads (the ones I chose to go with) from Tuner Z Store. Mike is fantastic! 6.) Fluid - (not required, but highly recommended). Your choice on brand Estimate about $60. I went with Stoptech STR 600 from Mike at Tuner Z Store. In case you didn't catch those prices the first time: Calipers - $180 Brackets - $150 Rotors - $80 Lines - $50 Pads - $80 Fluid - $60 Total = $600 + tax/shipping if applicable. Yep.. $600 In future installments, I will be doing a Z32 rear brake install and then some cosmetic work to make these look like OEM subaru brakes. Here's the highly-anticipated Part 2 of the 300ZX Brake Upgrade for FRS / BRZ! If you have questions or comments about this upgrade, please pop in and discuss here: 300ZX Brake Upgrade for FRS/BRZ *Please note: I have offered advice on which parts might offer an upgrade to the BRZ/FRS brake system. I am NOT a licensed mechanic or engineer. This is intended for track use only. I do not sell any parts or labor or profit in any way. If you wish to duplicate this modification, please know that you are solely responsible for the outcome. Niether myself or NICOclub can be held liable in any fashion for the results of this modification. [post_title] => 300ZX Brake Upgrade for FRS/BRZ [post_excerpt] => Would you like better brakes for your BRZ/FRS without spending $2k or more? In this article i will show you many options for brake upgrades ranging from professional aftermarket kits to a simple OEM upgrade. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-brake-upgrade-frsbrz [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/rebuilding-300zx-z32-calipers.html [post_modified] => 2020-05-29 23:36:24 [post_modified_gmt] => 2020-05-30 06:36:24 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=21806 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 21943 [post_author] => 21 [post_date] => 2008-07-23 19:03:05 [post_date_gmt] => 2008-07-24 02:03:05 [post_content] => 300zx Brake Upgrade for FRS/BRZ - Part 2 - How will they work? Assuming you've already read Part 1 of the 300ZX Brake Upgrade for FRS/BRZ, let's cover the rest of this system. In this article I will talk about how this braking system performs in comparison to stock. I will try to explain some technical terms and concepts in simple and easy ways so that everyone will find value in reading this article. In the first installment of this series I shared a new option for upgrading your FRS/BRZ brakes. I discussed multiple brake upgrade options and how I came upon this idea for 300zx brakes. The main topic for Part 1 was understanding which parts to buy so that everything bolts on and functions. Simply "functioning" should not be sufficient for most of us. There are many "86" owners who simply daily drive and many others who are purely interested in cosmetics and these people probably don't care about how well a brake upgrade actually works. For those of us who are performance oriented I want to explore the more technical side of brakes to find out if bolting 300zx brakes onto your BRZ is actually a good idea. If you're already well versed in brake technology, feel free to skip down toward the bottom to see the brake bias calculations... which is the most interesting part. Before I dive into this article I want to make two important statements: #1 - I am not an expert in brakes. I have no engineering background and I'm not professionally trained in this area. What I can do is share what I have learned from others. I want to credit others who have taken the time to join in conversation, review this upgrade and offer some real professional expertise. Thank you to the members of the ft86club.com forum - chiefly Jeff Ritter (JRitt) from Essexparts and forum moderator Dave-ROR. They were instrumental in sharing information and expertise as we explored various technical aspects of braking systems in the context of how my brake upgrade should actually perform vs. stock. #2 - It's important that everyone has a baseline understanding of how brakes work in order to understand the concepts I will discuss, so let's do that now: Most people incorrectly consider the caliper to the be source of "performance" in braking, but it should be noted that the tires are truly what stops the car. Let's back up and just lay the framework for what actually happens. When you press the brake pedal, you activate the brake master cylinder to push brake fluid through the lines. The fluid is pushed into the caliper and fills in behind the piston and forces the piston to move outward. These pistons push the brake pads against the rotor and cause friction. That friction slows the revolution speed of the rotor, which is fixed to the speed of the wheels and tires. As more pressure is applied through the system the traction of the tire against the pavement is what allows reduction in speed. The more traction you have, the more braking power you have. All those huge calipers and multiple pistons won't do you a bit of good with crappy tires. Period. So we've determined that with the help of the KNS Brakes bracket, the Z32 calipers do bolt onto the BRZ hub and work with the Legacy GT rotor. Now let's analyze these parts and discuss how they work and judge the pros and cons of each part and then we can make a judgment on the value of the whole setup. Calipers Caliper Specs: Z32 calipers are 4 piston fixed brakes vs. the stock BRZ/FRS 2 piston sliders. The piston sizes are 40.45mm for Z32 and 42.8mm for BRZ/FRS. The Z32 calipers weigh 6.1 lbs while the stock brakes are 14.1 lbs. So, which ones are better? VS. Caliper Pros/Cons: Fixed calipers are generally known to be better for high performance applications. They typically offer better feel, modulation, and consistency. From Wilwood, "fixed mount calipers that transfer PSI within the caliper into braking performance with a much higher efficiency are typically used on high-performance cars and for vehicles exclusively employed in racing for that purpose." Fixed calipers are also normally lighter than sliding bracket calipers. In addition, most fixed calipers offer extremely easy replacement of pads by allowing you to pull retainer pins and lift the pads out rather than having to remove the caliper. There are some downsides to fixed calipers as well. They are known to be slightly less resilient to imperfections in the rotors. It should also be mentioned that some fixed calipers (especially aluminum) were rumored to have some "flex" issues, though I think this would be much less risk on a light-weight car like the "86". They also require more width which in turn offers less clearance. In this case, the major downside is that you cannot run the OEM wheels with these brakes without some small spacers. Caliper Performance: The caliper's job is to push the pads against the rotor. The ability to push the pad against the rotor comes from the size of the pistons and number of pistons per side of the caliper. The fact that the 300zx caliper has 4 pistons vs. the stock 2 pistons does not result in greater clamping power. I still don't fully comprehend the physics behind this, but per Jeff Ritter and a book by James Walker Jr (a brake engineer at Bosch), "Hydraulic pressure x The effective area of the pistons on one side of the caliper = One sided linear mechanical force generated by the caliper. The caliper reacts to that one-sided mechanical force by turning it into a clamping force. Clamping force is the one-sided linear force x 2, regardless of whether or not it is a slider or fixed caliper." The BRZ/FRS caliper has two 42.8mm pistons. The Z32 has four 40.45mm pistons. The area of the Z32 pistons is smaller and the result is that the Z32 pistons will offer less clamping power than the OEM calipers. If analyzed independently of the rest of the system (which we will discuss later), they would reduce braking power by 8%. Is this relevant? Only if we deduce that we're somehow unable to achieve lock-up at a given pedal pressure, regardless of which calipers we choose. I suspect it will not be a concern. Caliper comparison conclusion: The Z32 caliper will offer better feel, modulation and efficiency, lighter weight, and easier pad replacement. However, they have slightly less clamping power and require spacers to run OEM wheels. Rotors: Rotor Specs: Legacy GT front rotors are 316mm in diameter by 30mm in width. Stock BRZ/FRS rotors are 294mm in diameter and 24mm in width. OEM Legacy GT rotors are 22 lbs while BRZ rotors are 17 lbs. Rotor Pros/Cons: My setup uses stock blank rotors for the sake of keeping price down. Because of this I can't do a pro vs. con since they are the same technology. But for the educational value of this write-up, let's talk about better technology. A high end BBK (big brake kit) would use much better two-piece rotors which have many advantages such as lighter weight and better cooling. From Jeff Ritter, " An OEM-style blank will never have the efficiency of a good aftermarket design. You can make the air gap two inches wide, but if the vanes aren't shaped properly you're going to have a lot of turbulence relative to a design built specifically to move air. That's why a considerably smaller racing disc can run much cooler than a larger OEM-style disc. With big brake kits, most of the kits on the market go about the same thing via two different routes. First would be the brute force method. This is typically the method employed by street BBK's. That means BIG disc and big pads. You use mass to combat heat. The second method would be efficient designs. That is the method used in racing. You use advanced technology and materials to address the heat issue at a far lower size/mass. As in every field, advanced technology is more expensive." The downside is cost. Most two piece rotors go for around $800 a pair. Since my goal was to offer a low-budget alternative I stuck with blank OEM style disks. Rotor Performance: A brake rotor's job is to offer a source of friction. Friction creates heat and after frequent use that heat quickly becomes too much and then overheats the pads and fluid and that quickly decreases braking performance. So the goal is to find a rotor that dissipates heat as well as possible. The Legacy GT rotors used in this kit are significantly larger and wider than the stock rotors. Per JRitt, "The LGT disc will definitely have superior cooling vs. the OEM BRZ. I have no doubt of that at all. They have a considerably bigger air gap and far greater surface area." Another upside to the larger rotors comes from the concept of leverage. As Dave-ROR points out, "leverage = further from the hub, no different then using a longer lever to apply torque to a bolt vs a shorter lever". The downside of these rotors is that they are heavier than stock by about 5 lbs each. To make things worse, the 5 lbs of added weight goes to "unsprung weight" or "rotational mass". The concept behind this is that any weight that is attached to the driveline (directly or indirectly) will have a greater impact on the transmission of power. Fortunately this is lessened by the fact that it's a rear wheel drive platform. But still, from a scientific perspective, the added weight will have some impact on acceleration. How noticeable this impact will be is hard to judge. Rotor comparison conclusion: The larger Legacy GT rotors offer significantly better cooling than the stock FRS/BRZ rotors due to the size and thickness. The extra cooling capacity will hopefully keep your brakes from over-heating on the track. I have no way to calculate a number for this of course, but the science behind it says that your chances of overheating your brakes with these rotors is lower. The downside of the larger rotors is the extra weight. That weight goes into rotational mass even though the overall weight of the brakes is less thanks to the lighter calipers, the impact of the rotational mass will effectively cause an increase in weight. Just imagine the weight of those huge Brembos though! Brake Pads: Brake Pad Specs: The Z32 pad is 119.3 x 49.5 x 14.5. The BRZ pad is 137.5 x 50.1 x 17.6. The shape of the Z32 pad is slightly more square. Pad pros/cons: Everyone will make their own choices on which brand of pads you buy, but the shape of the pad is determined by the caliper. While the BRZ pad is longer, it's not necessarily more effective due to the leverage issue brought up in the rotor topic. It does however offer more lifespan since it has more pad material. The price of these pads could be a factor. For Ferodo's top end race pad, the Z32 costs much more than the BRZ. For others (Project Mu/Winmax, etc) the Z32 pads are less expensive. This will be hit and miss, but if you are a religious buyer of one brand you should check the pricing on these pads before you consider this upgrade. Pad Performance: This will depend on the brand and type you chose. Brake Pad Comparison Conclusion: The BRZ pad is better because it has more pad material (both length and width). More material offers more lifespan. More lifespan equals less long term cost. But again, the leverage difference could negate some of the lifespan issues. Either way, I expect this pad comparison to be a minor issue. Brake Lines Comparison: The comparison here is between stainless conversion lines for the Z32 calipers and the stock OEM rubber lines. I'll keep this short and simple. Stainless lines offer an upgrade over rubber lines and you should consider upgrading lines even if you keep the OEM brakes. Stainless lines are more rigid and have less give under pressure so they will give a firmer pedal feel. The nod goes to this conversion because it forces the use of stainless lines and those are better than stock lines. Full System Performance: From looking at each of the new parts on an individual basis we see some obvious pros and cons. The calipers are lighter and have better feel, but have slightly less clamping power. The rotors offer much better cooling ability, and better leverage for clamping power, but do so at a detriment for weight. Clearly there are trade-offs here at a part level basis. However, to truly understand the value (or performance) of this setup you need to analyze the system as a whole. Let's look at the system as compared to stock in three areas: heat (resistance to overheating), weight (lighter is better), and bias (balance in braking power). Overall cooling: The Z32/Legacy GT system will provide significantly better cooling that the stock BRZ/FRS system. This is due entirely to the larger rotors. However these are still not professional racing brakes, so you still might encounter brake fade due to heat. This will depend on how aggressive you are driving. My opinion is that this kit is a good "happy medium" for the kind of person who does spirited canyon runs, frequent autocross and light track use. It should prevent brake fade under most of these driving conditions. If you are a frequent and aggressive track driver, you should save your pennies and go straight to a professional big brake kit. Overall weight: For anyone who drives aggressively, weight is the enemy. The extra pounds require more power to propel. Since the BRZ/FRS is not exactly well off in the power area, we want to be sure to keep weight down whenever possible. For overall weight, this Z32 setup is lighter than stock. We save 16 lbs on the calipers, but we give back 10 in rotors. So we have a net loss of 6 lbs. However to be more accurate we need to calculate the effect of rotational mass. The impact of weight on rotational parts (such as brake rotors) is 3x time actual weight. So in reality each of these Legacy GT rotors acts like 15 lbs heavier than stock. This would make a net gain of 30lbs less the 16 lb savings for an overall effective weight gain of 14lbs. You now have to decide if that gain of 14lbs is worth it compared to the cooling benefit of the larger rotors. Brake Bias: Until now we've analyzed the clamping power or performance of brakes on an independent basis. We've discussed the fact that the clamping power of the Z32 caliper is slightly lower than the stock slider because it has slightly smaller piston surface area. We've also mentioned that the larger diameter of the rotor moves the clamping point out further from the hub and this adds extra leverage. What we haven't discussed is how these issues affect overall braking in terms of "bias" between the power of the front brakes vs. the rear brakes. So, let's get an education from Jeff Ritter once more, "A LOT of effort by the car manufacturer goes into finding the proper brake bias for a given vehicle. This is where things get rather messy. Curb weight, drivetrain layout, center of gravity, wheelbase, static weight distribution, aerodynamic downforce, etc. all lead into a model of dynamic weight transfer under braking for a given vehicle. Once that is established, this data is combined with a bunch of data related to the tires, and a rather complex Anti-lock Brake System program is developed." "... messing with the amount of rear brake bias can become downright dangerous. In a system with too much rear brake, the car can get extremely squirrely under braking. If the rear wheels lock up before for the fronts, that is an inherently unstable condition. The car can swap ends into a spin as the weight shifts forward under braking and the rear wheels lock". It should be said that the BRZ/FRS braking system does include a "nanny" called EBD (Electronic brake-force distribution), which will help compensate for changes, but for best performance we want to prevent the electronic nannies from intervening. So brake bias is clearly an important topic to consider. Let's see how our $600 Z32 brake upgrade fares in calculations of brake bias. I used this online bias calculator: http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/ Stock: front piston size (inches) = 1.685 and 1.685 (42.8mm) front pad cf I left at .40 (street performance example) front rotor diameter 11.575 front pad height (I left at 1.875.. not sure how to calc this so I left it at the prefilled value) rear piston size = 1.49999 (38.1mm) rear rotor diameter = 11.42 rear pad cf = .40 (same as above) rear pad height = 1.25 (left at pre-filled value) Result = Front brake bias 0.697 or 69.7% to front. Z32 brakes: front piston size (inches) = 1.5925 and 1.5925 (40.45mm) front pad cf I left at .40 (street performance example) front rotor diameter 12.44 front pad height (I left at 1.875.. not sure how to calc this so I left it at the prefilled value) rear piston size = 1.49999 (38.1mm) rear rotor diameter = 11.42 rear pad cf = .40 (same as above) rear pad height = 1.25 (left at pre-filled value) Result = Front brake bias 0.709 or 70.9% to front. So the Z32 swap that I have on my car changes the front bias from 69.7% to 70.9% for a variance of 1.2%. The Z32 calipers judged independently would move brake bias towards the back. I did the calcs with the stock BRZ front rotor and the new calipers with smaller pistons and the bias came to 67.2% which would be moving bias rearward by 2.7%. *By the way, this means that the WRX 4-pot upgrade is a negative on brake bias. But, when you add the bigger Legacy GT front rotors the added leverage moves the bias back to the front to a new bias is 70.9%. So you gain 1.2% front bias with this setup. Brake bias conclusion: This $600 brake upgrade moves brake bias slightly toward the front. I think the experts would agree that this is an acceptable change and with the EBD system on the car this would most likely be completely compensated for. My conclusion is that brake bias is a non-factor with this modification. It should also be noted that brake pads each have a coefficient of friction. This is a measurement of how much friction they generate when rubbed against a rotor. By choosing different front and rear pads the brake bias can be shifted. In this example, but chosing a slightly high cf brake pad for the rear you can get the bias to almost exactly the stock number. Summary of technical information about this brake swap: As with most modifications, there are positives and negatives to this Z32 brake upgrade. You should get improvements in brake feel, modulation and consistency from the fixed calipers. You will get increased cooling from the larger rotors that should reduce or prevent brake fade (depending on how aggressive you drive of course). You will also have the benefit of ease of changing pads without removing the entire caliper. Brake bias change is minimal so that is not an issue. The downsides of this modification include, slightly higher effective weight when considering the rotational mass and slightly less pad life. Do I recommend this project? Yes! But that depends on your situation. If you never or rarely drive aggressively then this upgrade serves only for cosmetic improvement. Honestly, for some people that is enough. From a purely functional standpoint I think most FRS/BRZ owners should simply invest in better brake pads and perhaps stainless lines and they will be fine. For those who run canyons or autocross or run an occasional novice track day, this is a very solid upgrade in cooling capacity to avoid brake fade; for a very low price! For those who do frequent track days and really push their car, I strongly recommend a professional big brake kit as this setup just cannot compete with the lighter and more advance parts used in those kits. Thanks for reading part two. I hope you learned something about the more technical aspects of braking systems. Stay tuned for part three when I talk more about the rear Z32 brake upgrade! Also, if you have questions or comments about this upgrade, please pop in and discuss here: 300ZX Brake Upgrade for FRS/BRZ [post_title] => 300ZX Brake Upgrade for FRS/BRZ - Part 2 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-brake-upgrade-frsbrz-part-2 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 22:01:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 05:01:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=21943 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 22003 [post_author] => 12 [post_date] => 2013-08-11 23:32:33 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-08-12 06:32:33 [post_content] => It’s a movement many drivers have become experienced at performing, lifting a clutch pedal that only comes up halfway with the tip of the left shoe. It’s also one that I had been doing more and more frequently lately. My clutch was fine in the mornings or after the car had been setting for a while, but after some driving the pedal quickly decided the full travel stroke was just too far and it wasn’t going to do it. Higher temperatures made things worse faster and recovery slower...and August was just beginning. There are plenty of miles on my Z and all parts eventually need replacement and this problem pointed squarely at the clutch master cylinder. While it was open I decided to do the slave cylinder too and put in a steel braided clutch line. I really wanted to add the Nismo steel braided line with the fire insulation jacket but I couldn’t find it anywhere. Every place I called said almost the exact same thing, “Six to eight weeks, it’s special order only from Japan.” Even when I found it on eBay in a few auctions/storefronts the sellers I contacted said they didn’t have it on hand and they would have to order it. I called several retailers and explained how I couldn’t find the Nismo clutch line anywhere in the US and when I pointed out that it was the insulation jacket that I really wanted, they suggested the DIF stainless steel braided clutch line. The sleeve on the line is rated to 1090 degrees - CELSIUS, that's nearly 2000 degrees fahrenheit for those that aren't metrically gifted, heat will no longer be an issue! Armed with the new line, master and slave cylinders from the local Nissan dealership and one of the last unopened liters of ATE Super Blue brake fluid from my garage I was all set. Installation of the line is straightforward. More time will be spent on bleeding the clutch than anything else, but with the master and slave cylinder replacement that was going to happen anyway. I drove easy for a while getting used to the feel of the new bits but later took a 45 minute blast through the mountains and didn't have a single problem. Well, I did have one... I wonder how long will it take for me to unlearn the gesture of trying to raise the clutch pedal with my foot? [post_title] => 350Z Stainless Steel Clutch Line Review [post_excerpt] => It begins with a maneuver many drivers have become experienced at performing, lifting a clutch pedal that only comes up halfway with the tip of the left shoe. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-dif-stainless-steel-braided-clutch-line [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-performance-parts-infiniti-performance-parts-discount-pricing.html [post_modified] => 2020-01-09 19:44:40 [post_modified_gmt] => 2020-01-10 02:44:40 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=22003 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 22237 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2014-08-21 17:47:58 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-08-22 00:47:58 [post_content] => The 350Z turns 15 this year, and if you've got one of the early models, you might be thinking the interior and seat upholstery is about due for a refreshing. One option is a set of slip-on seat covers from Ebay or an auto parts store, but those usually fit terribly and look cheap. At the opposite end of the spectrum, a reputable professional upholstery shop can usually replicate the stock appearance of your original seats with new upholstery, but you'll be spending quite a bit, usually upwards of a thousand bucks. We're going to show you how to do it for less than half of that! My 2006 350Z Enthusiast came with manual cloth seats without side airbags. The passenger and driver’s seat have some minor differences besides the raised section between the driver’s legs. The driver’s seat has two knobs that independently raise/lower the front and back of the bottom seat cushion. The passenger seat has an additional tilt release lever in the center of the seat back. While other models come with power seats and side airbags, these instructions will work for them as well. Just follow the 350Z Factory Service Manual for removal and installation instructions. New Seat Covers: The leather seat covers came from NICOclub sponsor Interior Innovations. They took my custom specifications and had the covers produced overseas. The covers were shipped directly to my home. Quality is first-rate and suitable for the professional installer. That said, no instructions were included in the packaging. Hopefully, this write-up will suffice for our Z’s. Pricing was far more reasonable than expected, there were several different custom options, and they offer other materials besides leather... One could replicate the factory covers, or go with a much more custom design, such as I did. Interior Innovations claims their covers are made to OEM specifications, to ensure proper fit. They made sure to verify my year, make, model, and options for an exact fit. To this end they succeeded (with one minor issue that I will detail later). While several suppliers design their covers to be installed over your existing covers without removing the seats, these covers are professional quality, and are really needed for the deeply bolstered seats we have in our Z’s. Tools and Supplies Required: Besides the usual shop tools, you will need a pair of hog ring pliers and a supply of rings. These can be purchased at a Tractor Supply or Ace Hardware. You may also want some 4” cable ties. If you are going to use cable ties, you may want a pair of forceps from Harbor Freight to help dress the ties in close quarters. You may also need some 3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive to repair any damage you find in the foam rubber cushions. I would also recommend a digital camera or smart phone to take plenty of pictures during the disassembly process. Seat Removal: Tilt the seat backs forward and remove the headrests. Move the seat forward to gain access to the rear mount bolts. The bolts are covered with plastic buttons, which you can pop off with a screwdriver. Use a 14mm socket to remove these bolts. The FSM says these bolts should be torqued 25-40 ft-lbs, but I’ve always found them torqued to the high limit or more at the factory. You may need a breaker bar to break these bolts free. Slide the seat to the rear to expose the front mount bolts and remove them. The seat mounts also have a pin to hold the seat in position. Lift the seat about 3 inches to release the pin and then tilt the seat rearward to gain access to the wiring. Of particular note, if you have side airbags, disconnect the battery and wait 3 minutes before disconnecting the wiring on the bottom of the seats. Inadvertently firing the airbags can ruin your installation – and your whole darn day. Wiring connects the seat to the car and varies depending on which options you have. Disconnect the plugs and snip any cable ties as required. Tilt the top of the seat towards the door and lift the seat out (this is easier with a helper - while the seats aren't terribly heavy, they're awkward). Take a break, and we'll start on the disassembly next! 350Z Custom Seat Cover Replacement - Part 2
[post_title] => 350Z Custom Upholstery / Seat Cover Replacement from Interior Innovations [post_excerpt] => Interior-Innovations provides OEM-quality original-look or custom seat upholstery for the entire Nissan Z lineup - We'll show you how to install their leather seat upholstery on a 350Z Enthusiast model! [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => diy-350z-custom-upholstery-seat-cover-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2020-05-29 22:33:32 [post_modified_gmt] => 2020-05-30 05:33:32 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=22237 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 22263 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2013-08-20 23:13:36 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-08-21 06:13:36 [post_content] => Welcome back - Let's start taking things apart (and don't forget to take pictures, and put your hardware in a container so you don't lose it!) Seat Disassembly: Tilt the seat backs to the aft most position. Place the seats face down to expose the bottom. There is a flap that wraps around a bar at the rear of the seat bottom and is attached with Velcro. Free the flap. On the driver’s seat bottom there is a bracket holding the wire connectors that accommodates the tilt mechanism. Remove three screws holding the bracket. Remove the cable ties holding the wiring to the seat bottom. Remove 4 each 12mm bolts holding the bottom seat cushion to the outer frame. Turn the seat over and remove the cushion. Tilt the seat back all the way forward. The bottom front and back portions of the seat back cover are connected by interlocking U-channels. Squeeze the front and back portions together to free the U-channels. Un-zip the zippers. Now's a good time to take a break, so when we return we'll start on the passenger seat disassembly! 350Z Upholstery Replacement - Part 3
[post_title] => DIY 350Z Custom Upholstery / Seat Cover Replacement Part 2 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => diy-350z-custom-upholstery-seat-cover-replacement-part-2 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-08-21 17:54:53 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-08-22 00:54:53 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=22263 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 22280 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2013-08-20 23:16:29 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-08-21 06:16:29 [post_content] => Alright, let's get back to some disassembly - On the passenger seat, lift the auxiliary release handle and remove two screws. Lift the back portion of the cover and dress the release assembly back through the cover. Fold the back cover to the front to expose the seat frame. Lift the foam rubber to expose the interior framework. Locate the bottom of the two ferrules for the headrest. Squeeze the two sides of the ferrule while pushing upward. Once released, remove the ferrules. Slide the bottom and sides of the cushion forward to clear the frame and lift the cushion and cover off of the frame. Set the seat frame aside. Next, we're going to remove the foam cushions from the frame - Go ahead and grab your side cutters and safety glasses! DIY 350Z Custom Upholstery - Part 4
[post_title] => DIY 350Z Custom Upholstery / Seat Cover Replacement Part 3 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => diy-350z-custom-upholstery-seat-cover-replacement-part-3 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-08-21 17:54:36 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-08-22 00:54:36 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=22280 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 22292 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2013-08-20 23:30:07 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-08-21 06:30:07 [post_content] => Cover/cushion separation: Place the bottom cushion on the work bench, face down. Using diagonal cutters snip the hog rings and remove the pieces (NOTE: Put on your safety glasses, the hog ring chunks WILL go flying!) Flip the cushion over and fold back the sides of the cover. Observe that the seat cushions have side bolsters and the contour of the seat is maintained by wire stays embedded in the foam rubber. The cover is held in place to the stays with hog rings. Locate the hog rings and snip them to separate the cover. Place the back cushion on the work bench and fold back the cover to expose the remaining hog rings. Snip the rings and separate the back cover. Note: There are also two small hog rings on the back side of the cushion near the bottom.
[post_title] => DIY 350Z Custom Upholstery / Seat Cover Replacement Part 4 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => diy-350z-custom-upholstery-seat-cover-replacement-part-4 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-08-21 17:57:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-08-22 00:57:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=22292 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 22303 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2013-08-20 23:45:44 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-08-21 06:45:44 [post_content] => Ok, we're back! After doing these, I learned that it is best to attach the covers to the wire stays running across the cushion, and then attach to the stays on the sides. Because I was using 4” cable ties, I found it useful to pre-position the ties under the wire stays. Orient the ties so that the retainer ends are accessible once the loop is made. In the close working quarters found here, I found it useful to use forceps to dress the small end of tie into the hole cut in the cover stay. Start all of the ties for each wire stay before you pull them tight. This will make it easier to manipulate the cover during this step. Once the ties are all started, pull them tight a bit at a time (so that the "bar" enters the slot in the foam evenly, not at an angle). You'll want to "work" the bar down into the slot, and once the zipties are tight, trim the end with a nail clipper. Also, you'll want to compress the foam when snugging down the zipties. This maintains tension on the stay bar, which keeps the upholstery taut and smooth. If you are using hog rings and pliers in this section, you may find it difficult to engage both the stay in the cushion and the stay in the cover before squeezing. Once the inner attachments have been made, fold the covers into position around the cushions. Zip up the zippers and attach the U-channels at the bottom of the back cushion. Allow the leather to relax and conform to the cushion profiles. A heat gun set on low can be useful here. Just don’t heat the covers enough to damage anything... better still, take them outside to bake in the sun for a while. At this point, use the old cover as a template to mark the cutout for the auxiliary release lever on the back of the passenger panel. When you cut out the access, I suggest you cut it undersize and make final trimming once the cushion is fitted to the frame. Attaching the covers to the framework: At this point it may be a good time to refer to your photographs to see where the hog rings attach, and bring your helper in - this can be anyone, since they're just going to provide weight. Start with the seat bottoms and place them face down on the work bench. Attach the front of the cover first followed by the rear flap attaching to the springs. This is followed by the sides working from front to back. Before making your final attachments, have your helper compress the seat by placing weight on it - this will allow you to get the cover snug. Since you will have to significantly compress the side bolsters to make the attachments, I suggest you insert the hog ring into the leather first and then use a Phillips screwdriver to lever the other end of the ring on to the metal frame, while your helper presses down on the underside of the seat frame. Then use the pliers to squeeze the ring. Set the bottom cushion assembly aside until the back cushion is in place. Now on to the seat back cushion. Un-zip the zippers and slide the cushion back over the frame. Pay attention to ensure the foam wraps around the bar at the bottom of the frame. Make sure the cover is seating properly around the side bolsters, as you slide it on. A little pro-trick is to turn the seat cover partially inside-out, place the top over the top of the seat, and then "unroll" or unfold it down the seat gradually... Like putting on a condom! Zip up the zippers and again allow the leather to relax, using heat as necessary. When we return, we'll cover the only real challenge of this installation, and I'll show you how it can be overcome! Nissan 350Z Seat Cover Replacement - Part 6
[post_title] => DIY 350Z Custom Upholstery / Seat Cover Replacement Part 5 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => diy-350z-custom-upholstery-seat-cover-replacement-part-5 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-08-21 17:58:49 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-08-22 00:58:49 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=22303 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 22311 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2013-08-21 00:13:44 [post_date_gmt] => 2013-08-21 07:13:44 [post_content] => At this point, we need to discuss the issue where the covers do not comply with the OEM specifications. The OEM cover U-channels are metal and have a smaller profile compared to the leather covers. The new covers have larger, plastic U-channels. This means that the two cover sections must be overlapped and squeezed to a much greater extent to engage. This, combined with less stretchable nature of leather, makes this the most difficult step of the installation. Take note of just how tight this fit is at this time. Once the leather has relaxed, remove the cushion/cover from the frame and attach the two hog rings to the inside bottom of the cushion. At this point, I found it necessary to remove the bottom 1” of the foam where it wraps around the bottom bar of the frame. This was needed to give additional clearance for the plastic U-channels. We are now ready to install the seat back on to the frame. Slide the cushion back onto the frame, making sure it is resting on the top of the frame. Fit the cushion around the frame sides and under the bar at the bottom. Tilt the seat back as needed to dress the U-channel between the plastic side covers on the frame and the bar at the bottom of the frame. At this point for the passenger seat, do the final trimming for the auxiliary tilt release bezel, dress it through the cover, and secure the panel with two screws. Do not pull the zippers down at this time, as it will make engaging the U-channels harder. Try as I might, I could not get enough overlap to engage the U-channels. I then compressed the front of the cushion with a board and clamping. I also cut some notches into the rear U-channel to create three separate tabs. At this point I was able to engage the center tab and used the additional leverage to engage the other two tabs. Perhaps Interior Innovations will adjust their specifications to account for the larger size in the future, but this is what I had to do. (NOTE: Some customers report that allowing the covers to bake in the sun for several hours makes this part of the task a little easier.) At this point, close the zippers. Using the OEM cover as a template, mark and pierce the top of the seat cover for the headrest ferrules. Use caution, and go small! It is better to under-trim the holes rather than risk having a cut show after the ferrule is installed. Slide the ferrules into the seat until they snap into place in the frame. Insert the bottom cushion into the outer frame and turn the seat assembly over. Adjust the seat cushion so that the 12mm bolts fit and tighten. Pull the last flap of the cover around the bar and secure the elastic to the seat springs. Install the new headrest cover: Unlike the seat cushions, you cannot remove the fabric covering the headrests, as it is glued in place. To install the leather cover, release all of the Velcro strips to maximize the bottom opening. Turn the cover inside out and then push the top back in half way. Place the new cover over the headrest and work it down little by little squeezing the cushion as needed (again, think of putting on a condom). Once in place, secure the bottom Velcro strips. Re-installing the seats: This operation is pretty much the reverse of the removal process. Remember to leave the headrests out, and tilt the seat forward before installation. If you have airbags, verify the battery is still disconnected before reconnecting the wiring. Use zipties to secure the wires to the seat frame. Mount the seat frame, engaging the locating pin. Install the front mount bolts, but don’t torque them down yet. If necessary, connect the battery now. Move the seat forward and install the rear mount bolts. Torque the bolts to 25-40 ft-lbs. and replace the plastic caps. Move the seat rearward, torque the front mount bolts and install the plastic caps. I hope you've enjoyed this installation article, and I also hope it helps you with your own seat upholstery replacement. Thanks for joining us! The author, Dale (djwarner), is a long-time member of the NICOclub forums and an avid Z enthusiast.
[post_title] => DIY 350Z Custom Upholstery / Seat Cover Replacement Part 6 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => diy-350z-custom-upholstery-seat-cover-replacement-part-6 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-08-21 17:58:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-08-22 00:58:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=22311 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 22375 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2014-08-27 22:03:02 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-08-28 05:03:02 [post_content] => Rob at Zaklee has just introduced a line of clear cam gear covers for the Nissan RB25 engine, and I've got to say, they turned out fantastic! Here's some photos of the clear cover on our RB25-powered 1972 240Z, which is the Zpowersteering.com demo car. Small details like this make the difference between a simple motor swap and a custom build, and Rob's got this particular part refined to near perfection. Here's a good shot that shows the optical clarity of the part: You can read some more about the process for development of this part here: RB25DET Clear Cam Gear Cover Hope you guys enjoyed the pics, and thanks for supporting the vendors that support NICOclub.com!
[post_title] => Zaklee RB25DET Clear Cam Gear Covers are Here! [post_excerpt] => Rob at Zaklee has just introduced a line of clear cam gear covers for the Nissan RB25 engine, and I've got to say, they turned out fantastic! [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => zaklee-rb25det-clear-cam-gear-covers [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-02 21:53:25 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-03 04:53:25 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=22375 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 22909 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2014-12-09 22:31:59 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-12-10 05:31:59 [post_content] => We all know the 2015 Murano is a brilliantly-attractive upgrade from the prior year's model - it's a great-looking vehicle with a lot more amenities and should be a spectacular seller. We have it on good authority from one of our sources now, however, that the 2015 Murano may join the Altima and Sentra and be offered as a Partial Zero-Emissions Vehicle (PZEV)! Stay tuned for a full road test and review! Coming in late are a couple other pics from one of our other sources - This Murano retains its "test mule" camouflage, unusual considering the vehicle has already been on display in several venues. This tells us the test mule may well be something even more special - AWD Murano Hybrid, perhaps? Or maybe even an Infiniti-badged upscale variant? The wheels seem to point toward the latter... What do you think? Pop in and let us know what you think of the 2015 Murano in the thread below, and if you're a new owner or potential owner, we'd LOVE to hear from you! 2015 Nissan Murano Discussion
[post_title] => 2015 Murano to be a Partial Zero-Emissions Vehicle (PZEV)? [post_excerpt] => We have it on good authority from one of our sources that the 2015 Nissan Murano may join the Altima and Sentra and be offered as a Partial Zero-Emissions Vehicle. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 2015-murano-partial-zero-emissions-vehicle-pzev [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-12-19 23:04:56 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-12-20 06:04:56 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=22909 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 23001 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2014-12-24 23:11:07 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-12-25 06:11:07 [post_content] => The current-generation 370Z was released in the 2009 model year, and has been essentially unchanged for the past seven years. Many of us at NICOclub and the rest of the autmotive world expected to see or hear about the next Z car for model year 2016. As you can see by the recently-obtained order sheet, it appears the current 370Z will continue to live on for at least one more model year, although not without some key changes. [click for larger images] The available color combinations will change, and some interior features will get mild upgrades. One of the most notable changes is that the 370Z will no longer be available in Midnight Blue, but will be available in the GT-R's Deep Blue Pearl finish. In addition, Pearl White (also shared with the GT-R) will be available and will now command an as yet undisclosed pricing premium. The 370Z's package choices remain as they are for model year 2015, although the NISMO and Sport models will now get a version of the BOSE audio system featuring the Active Noise Control originally found in the GT-R. The Active Noise Control uses a microphone in the ceiling to identify undesirable low-frequency engine sounds and neutralizes them with sound waves of the opposite phase, resulting in a quieter overall ride that emphasizes the engine note. Thankfully, Nissan has not seen fit to go the BMW route and generate "faux" engine sounds into the passenger cabin. A new feature, Active Sound Enhancement, does not currently appear to be utilized in any Nissan model - we will post more details regarding this as they become available. While the BOSE audio system is now offered in the base NISMO and Sport trims, you must step up to the "Tech" levels of each trim in order to get XM Satellite Radio and Streaming Bluetooth Audio. All other packaging and trims remain the same as their 2015 predecessors. As changes continue with the 370Z, we are now in the eighth model year of the vehicle, and the platform is showing its age with respect to the competition. Some have speculated that Nissan may repeat a previous decision with the Z cars - introducing a new model while continuing production of the old model - as they have done with the Rogue/Rogue Select and the G37/Q50. Many have clamored for a "budget" rear wheel drive sports car, to compete with the BRZ / FR-S twins, and Nissan could easily splinter the Z into different trims and offerings to cater to both factions. This would serve to appease the Z fanatics who have remained loyal over 45 years of production, while enticing new fans to the platform (and the Nissan brand). Engine offerings have been rumored to range from a turbocharged, direct-injected, small-displacement 4 cylinder to a 400hp twin turbo V6 variant of the GT-R's powerplant... Alternatively, we may simply see a newer iteration of the VQ series engine (which would also employ direct injection and advanced fuel management technologies). However, the new Z may still share a platform with its Infiniti siblings, the G37/Q60 coupe, which will make its debut at the Detroit Auto Show in January. While we're going to have to wait at least another year for a new Z car, we may see a newly invigorated set of performance capabilities from this line of cars sooner than we think. Author: Zack Brown (RicerX) is a NICOclub Administrator and current 370Z owner
[post_title] => 2016 Nissan 370Z - The Legend Continues, but what's next? [post_excerpt] => NICOclub has acquired a build sheet for the 2016 Nissan 370Z, which means a replacement for the current Z will not appear until the 2017 model year or beyond. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 2016-nissan-370z-legend-continues-whats-next [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-02 21:51:21 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-03 04:51:21 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=23001 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 23445 [post_author] => 31 [post_date] => 2014-02-23 22:03:32 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-02-24 05:03:32 [post_content] => Hazard Switch Bulb Replacement You have two choices. You can buy another bulb and holder from the dealer, or order one online. It’s your choice, but the dealer route is more expensive but less time consuming. Here’s the bulb you need (should be available on Amazon). Properly cut down. Carefully pry the two parts of the switch apart. Remove the rubber bulb holder. Unwrap the wires from the bulb holder and remove the bulb. Be careful with the holder, as you’ll need to reuse it. Carefully remove the bulb condom. You’ll need to reuse it, so make sure to get it off without ripping it. Match up the new bulb to the old one, and cut the wires to length. As you can see, the replacement is a bit bigger, but it still fits fine. Pay no attention to the switch in the background. The steps are similar to most switches inside the S13. Now reverse the disassembly order and you'll be back on your way. Written by Nico member qat727.
[post_title] => S13 Hazard Switch Bulb Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => s13-hazard-switch-bulb-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-02-23 22:05:29 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-02-24 05:05:29 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=23445 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 24100 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2015-05-04 20:29:35 [post_date_gmt] => 2015-05-05 03:29:35 [post_content] => I have to admit - I'm one of those OCD types. I will obsess over every minor detail of every little thing, especially with my cars and electronics. When it comes to modifying my cars, I'm even worse. The parts have to be of high quality, fit, and finish, and they cannot upset anything regarding the use of my car, whether it be on the street or on the autocross course. I'm now 20,000 miles into my 2013 370Z (Sport + Touring), and it's a daily driver and occasional hoonmobile (as life would have it, sadly it's more DD than hoonmobile, but I digress). Little did HKS know that when they decided to send us here at NICOclub a set of their brand spankin' new Hipermax IV GT coilovers that they would be subjecting themselves to the scrutiny of this self-diagnosed obsessive compulsive 370Z owner. HKS says this is their latest and great variant of the Hipermax series. "Awesome sporty drive with great control and comfortable ride in the street. It's perfect for daily street drive with style and performance. You and your passenger can have a comfortable ride even with a low-down." More funny Japanese translation. This is why I was always wary of putting a coilover setup on my car - I'm one of those weird guys. I drive my Z too much on a utilitarian basis to want to stiffen the car up to the point where it beats me up for a couple hours a day. This setup would have to be a damn near perfect for me to give it my stamp of approval. I have to retain a certain level of comfort for my morning commute to work, and I have to retain the handling qualities of the Z. According to HKS, I am their target market for the GT series, so let's see if they hit the mark. Packaging Little did HKS know, their product would be tested before it even got to my doorstep. Looks like this box made it to my house via gorilla. I'll admit, I nearly sent them back without opening them. Fortunately, they were well-packaged. The top layer of the box contained the front suspension, and the bottom contained the rear coilovers. Further digging inside the box yielded a certificate of authenticity from HKS (a nice touch considering there are so many knockoff parts in the tuner world) as well as an instruction booklet complete with a checklist for package contents. After meticulously going through and checking each item off the list and inspecting for damage from shipping, I felt much better. Thankfully, the system was packaged well enough that it could be kicked along the interstate from some warehouse to my doorstep. It's especially good that there was no damage, because this setup is too pretty to have dings and such. Next page: The excitement ensues - it is time to put these bad boys on the car. [post_title] => HKS Hipermax IV GT coilovers - Nissan 370Z install and review [post_excerpt] => HKS says this is their latest and great variant of the Hipermax series - We'll install a set on a daily-driven 370Z and put them through their paces so you can follow along. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => hks-hipermax-iv-gt-coilovers-nissan-370z-install-and-review [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-02 21:49:28 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-03 04:49:28 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=24100 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 24158 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2014-04-30 23:49:52 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-05-01 06:49:52 [post_content] => Installation This is where I give the "do as I say, not as I do" disclaimer: I'm in the middle of moving and getting myself squared away with all my things in one place. I have belongings scattered between two states at the moment, so the tools available to me at the time of installation were basic hand tools, the scissor jack from the trunk of the Z, and a pair of jack stands. That made a fairly simple installation far more physically demanding than it had to be. If you have access to a lift and air tools, peace be with you. I hurt for two days after breaking bolts off of the suspension of a 20,000 mile-old MY2013. From the south. With zero rust. (I'm probably a pansy - wouldn't be the first time I've heard it.) I'll also admit - do a thorough check of the booklet that HKS provides. Initially, when I looked at a few pages of a wall of Japanese text, I spent a minute wondering how on earth I was going to use Google Translate without a Japanese keyboard, but my brain-fart soon ended and I found the English section of the booklet. It definitely helps to read through it before you start anything just to familiarize yourself with what needs to be done. This is where I'll hat-tip to HKS - one of several hat-tips, as you'll find - the instructions provided are pretty solid. I'm going to summarize the installation with a couple of pictures and suggestions of my own, because HKS has it pretty well covered out of the box. The instructions even come with illustrations that are specific to the application - no generic instruction here. There's no mistake that the instruction manual covers the HKS Hipermax IV GT system for the 370Z. I hate it when manufacturers cut corners with generic instruction, and HKS gives an example of why they're known for being top-notch by being thorough here. There are two tricky parts to the installation, and I will emphasize those as I walk you through it. I worked from front to rear on the Z for installation because I had only two jack stands. If you have a lift, you can rock this out faster, but you can get it done with jack stands as you don't need to get the car terribly far off the ground for most of the work (except for breaking bolts off the bottom of the front suspension - the more room you can get the better.) I was able to work with an 18" breaker bar for the tough bolts with jackstands, for your reference. The 370Z comes with a strut brace as shown that must be removed first so you can access the strut towers - it helps to remove this before you lift the car as it's easier to reach when the car is on the ground. Remove the bolts from each side. Then remove this segment of the plastic trim where the bar connects to the firewall. Be careful to not damage the rubber welting, as it has tiny plastic pins that hold it down to the rest of the plastic, and they can tear the hose if you just yank on it. Unbolt the bar from the firewall after trim removal, and remove the bar. (The bar is a bit awkward, so be careful not to drop it on a fender or something. That would suck.) After all that, you can finally access the strut towers like shown here. This is where I began work on the front (this part takes longer than the rear). TRICKY PART #1: Caution needs to be exercised here as you have two sensitive components to work around - the ABS sensor wiring and the brake lines. Damaging those will add quite a bit of length to your installation, to say the least. Because the guys at HKS are so nice, they even provide you with zip-ties so you may temporarily secure the brake lines and ABS sensors away from the strut assembly while you work. Another nice touch by guys who clearly work on cars and don't just produce parts from a template. The hardest part on the front is breaking the 19mm nut at the base of the strut loose. It sucks. It took me the longest of any single step of this installation. Prepare yourself, though everyone's car is different. I may have just been unlucky in that regard. To give you an idea of what we're dealing with, here is a before and after shot of the front assemblies: The good news is the HKS front struts were a breeze to install once the OEM parts were removed. They even had mounts for the ABS sensors and brake lines in OEM locations - no awkward mounting here. 100% good design. I have seen other coilover systems come up short here. They also mount just like the OEM strut. I didn't have to force a single component into place or modify a single mounting point. Top notch quality. HKS changed their finishing technique for the Series IV. Really. It's a crying shame you can't see these things once the wheels are mounted in front of them. They are gorgeous. Up next - Installing the rears! [post_title] => HKS Hipermax IV GT coilovers - Nissan 370Z install and review Part 2 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => hks-hipermax-iv-gt-coilovers-nissan-370z-install-and-review-part-2 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-02 21:57:19 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-03 04:57:19 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=24158 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 24161 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2014-04-30 23:50:43 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-05-01 06:50:43 [post_content] => Now for the rear installation - this was significantly easier than the front as there is more room to work and the brake lines and ABS sensors aren't as closely located to the damping components you need to remove and install. A fairly simple removal and installation here with a few notable steps. TRICKY PART #2: The top of the rear dampers aren't accessible from the hatch, and this is where HKS has you remedy this by drilling holes in your interior paneling so you can access the adjusters for the damper. They provide you with rubber grommets for each side so you have a more "finished" look to it. At the time of installation, I didn't have a drill, so I test fit the dampers to ensure there was enough clearance for the adjusters to fit without drilling the holes, and they do just fine - this is only so you may access the adjusters. HKS is also exceptionally thorough with their installation instruction - they measure out the dimensions of the hatch area to pinpoint the areas you need to drill. They're pretty much dead on here, although they do give the caveat that each vehicle may vary somewhat, so I chose to mark from the inside of the strut tower and go from there to ensure I hit the right point. There is some sound deadening material here, so drilling can get a bit messy. A hint from Captain Obvious - if you decide to drill from the bottom, be sure to open your hatch first. Here is a before and after of OEM to HKS: And here is what it all looks like installed: There aren't any other tricky areas on the rear installation that HKS doesn't have covered thoroughly in the instructions. No surprises and nothing difficult. Just the way I like it. Next up - Let's make some adjustments... or not. [post_title] => HKS Hipermax IV GT coilovers - Nissan 370Z install and review Part 3 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => hks-hipermax-iv-gt-coilovers-nissan-370z-install-and-review-part-3 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-02 21:57:07 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-03 04:57:07 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=24161 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 24167 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2014-05-01 23:48:00 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-05-02 06:48:00 [post_content] => Adjustability Here is the fun part - and I didn't do a damn thing with it initially. Allow me to explain: The Hipermax GT system allows you to adjust both height and dampening - just as any high quality coilover system should. However, just because HKS is awesome, they give you preconfigured settings out of the box. No preloading of dampers or intial configuration of ride height - they are ready to go once they're bolted on. This is especially convenient on the 370Z platform. The out-of-the-box settings from HKS for height provide for a stress-free installation on the 370Z. The height drop is 3/4" all around without any adjustments - just bolt them on and go. I'm a huge fan of this considering the coilovers are aimed at people who use their cars on the street - the height drop isn't dramatic, but I'll talk more about that later. The height reduction also isn't so extreme to where you need extra parts, but this is due to the design of the 370Z's suspension. The 370Z requires the addition of aftermarket camber arms and toe bolts (and in some cases, front sway bar end links) to achieve factory spec alignment if you drop the ride height more than an inch. HKS specifies in their instructions that a vehicle alignment is required after installation is complete, however, a successful alignment back to factory spec cannot be accomplished without these extra parts if you deviate from the HKS-supplied settings. The Hipermax system allows you to drop the car as much as 1.3" in the front and a whopping 2.4" in the rear (though they advise the bottom end of the driveable range is 1.3" front and 1.69" in the rear), so I find their supplied 3/4" height reduction out of the box to be a fantastic finishing touch to what is supposed to be a streetable suspension system. I didn't have to adjust a thing. HKS truly nails it here - it's clear they know the car and its design. Enough chatter - here are the front before and after shots: Initial Driving Impressions - Default Settings In short - these things are absolutely stellar. I expected to feel a difference, but I didn't expect to be this impressed. As far as the GT version of these coilovers go, they've nailed it in every way. They are absolutely streetable. In fact, the default settings actually made my 370Z ride smoother than stock. Smoother. From an aftermarket suspension system? What? The first drive of the car was devoid of any creaks, squeaks, or any other unsettling "break-in" quirks you may expect from such a modification. The car is more civilized over bumps and dips with a tiny increase in the overall stiffness of the car. My drive to work is more enjoyable, so that box is checked. Initially, there was a bit of sway and body roll added, but that seems to have worked itself out after the first day as the car seems to have settled and the dampers have been cycled through their range of motion. The slight drop requires the exercise of caution over questionable inclines and speed bumps, but you're not handicapped into holding up traffic to pull into the gas station or anything dramatic like that. The drop is tasteful and practical. However, since the dampening is a bit softer than stock, you get a bit more bounce over speed bumps, and any scraping can be avoided by simply taking your time going over them. My alignment guy isn't available this week, so the next part of this review will come once a good alignment is complete and I can play with the dampening and get a good course run in. I know that they ride perfectly fine for the street, but what I really want to see is how they play when I beat on them. Stay tuned for the next episode, when we push the limits of the HKS Hipermax IV GT Suspension System! [post_title] => HKS Hipermax IV GT coilovers - Nissan 370Z install and review Part 4 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => hks-hipermax-iv-gt-coilovers-nissan-370z-install-and-review-part-4 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-02 21:56:57 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-03 04:56:57 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=24167 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 24253 [post_author] => 11 [post_date] => 2015-04-02 15:58:47 [post_date_gmt] => 2015-04-02 22:58:47 [post_content] => Back in September 2014, NICO worked together with ZAtlanta to put on a a good showing at the NOPI Nationals. While we were there, we met some great folks. In particular, we met Johnny who had a very clean dark blue G35 Coupe, and his lovely girlfriend Christal. Christal recently contacted us asking if NICO would be at ZdayZ 2015. We hadn't planned to be there, but we knew we'd have lots of NICO members there. When she found this out, she wanted to know what she could do to help spread the NICO love around the event. So we shipped a box full of goodies to her to hand out. Although we couldn't make it, Christal went above and beyond by passing out t-shirts, lanyards, and stickers to the attendees at ZdayZ. Here are some of the pictures of Nissan enthusiasts getting their free NICO swag at ZdayZ because that's how we do things at NICO. Even if we can't be there but we know our members will be, we want to show them we're always thinking about them and hoping they are having a good time! A HUGE thanks goes out to Christal for taking care of our members at ZdayZ! We can't wait to work with you again! [gallery include="24255, 24257, 24258, 24259, 24260" link="file" columns="5"] [gallery include="24261, 24262, 24263, 24264, 24265" link="file" columns="5"] [gallery include="24266, 24267, 24270" link="file" columns="3"] And to top it all off, a shirt given to "Mad Mike" Taylor, credited with helping persuade Nissan to bring back the Z after the production of the Z32 was canceled. [post_title] => NICO Love Spreads Wild at ZdayZ! [post_excerpt] => Christal recently contacted us asking if NICO would be at ZdayZ 2015. We hadn't planned to be there, but we knew we'd have lots of NICO members there. When she found this out, she wanted to know what she could do to help spread the NICO love around the event. So we shipped a box full of goodies to her to hand out. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => nico-love-spreads-wild-at-zdayz [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-05-18 16:02:35 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-05-18 23:02:35 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=24253 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 24329 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2015-06-06 23:17:55 [post_date_gmt] => 2015-06-07 06:17:55 [post_content] => The yet-to-be-rendered 2018 Nissan GT-R (that's R36, for those of us who speak platform) will borrow heavily from the GT-R LM NISMO race car in the drivetrain department. Imagine this: The hybrid electric motor, with gobs of instantaneous torque (identical to that of the race car,) supplementing the twin-turbo 3.0-liter V6 engine - already a beast in its own right. While the GT-R LM NISMO boasts roughly 1,200 hp, the next generation GT-R will be detuned for lower fuel consumption, resulting in total horsepower figures around 700. Nissan has confirmed to us that the hybrid drivetrain will remain in the front of the car, dismissing rumors of a mid-engined platform. However, considering the 2018 Nissan GT-R will have tons of instantaneous torque from its electric motor and that wicked twin-turbo V6, we wouldn't be surprised to see the GT-R embarrass the Corvette on its way to challenging exotic supercars with double, or triple its price tag - and more. [post_title] => 2018 GT-R: Godzilla retains FR layout, but gets 700hp [post_excerpt] => While the GT-R LM NISMO race car is looking to win races, its real purpose is to serve as a test bed for the technologies that will make their way into the 2018 GT-R (and eventually other cars in the Nissan lineup). [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => 2018-gt-r-godzilla-retains-fr-layout-but-gets-700hp [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-06 23:17:55 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-07 06:17:55 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=24329 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 24866 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2015-07-29 22:53:56 [post_date_gmt] => 2015-07-30 05:53:56 [post_content] => Straight line or Curves… The age old tug-of-war in performance car building in backyards all over America. Whichever way you go, you need solid, reliable and high performance suspension. Personally, I like curves (and yes I’m talking about cars)! Recently I wrote an article covering installation of the new PowerTrix Ultralite coilovers into my 1990 Z32 (300zx) affectionately named Shibui... Well recently I was able to take her up to ZdayZ in North Carolina to put the new setup to the test! Last year, Shibui was on KYB AGX adjustable struts and Megan coilovers. The car performed fairly well with the exception of a tail wag into the other lane once because the rebound of the suspension lightened up the rear end as well as the occasional roar of rubbing that sounded like Bigfoot after being in captivity for a week without food. But other than that, I was pretty content. But since I don’t like the feeling of death threats of oncoming traffic with my rear end sticking out, I decided to get with Charles and his team at Powertrix.com. Now it was time to put it to the test and drive the Dragon again with the new setup…. WOW WOW WOW! If I weren’t so excited, I could end the article there and it would sum it up pretty well! Not only was the rubbing gone, but the control of the vehicle was so much that I would literally grunt in the corners! We are talking about a 25 year old, heavily front weighted car with as much technology as a Nokia 5100 (yes I had one back then), but yet I was able to control it to the degree of fear! I kept saying to myself “This is going to be where it breaks loose, this is it!” and would begin to grunt as I pushed the throttle coming out of the curve, and yet it held - it felt almost as though I could feel the tires on the ground, so my confidence level in the car went through the roof! Not only was the performance great, but I was extremely impressed with the ride when I turned the knobs down to its lowest setting to soften it up. To paint the picture, I drove the car from Central Florida up to Fontana Village, North Carolina - Some 12 hours of driving with friends in a Nissan/Infiniti train of performance cars ranging in colors that would make Skittles jealous. But 12 hours of driving on a performance setup was a bit nerve-wracking at first because I’m no spring chicken. But I have to say I was thoroughly impressed with the range of adjustment allowing me to get out after the long drive without groaning like a bear after hibernation. To sum up my review, I do not think you can find a better mixture of performance and price for your Z31-Z34 as well as S13 and S14 cars than with the Powertrix line of coilovers, and the knowledgeable staff just puts a cherry on top! I believe I may look into some more adjustable goodies from Powertrix in the near future... Until then, below is a video from one of my runs. I sped up a couple spots where we got stuck behind locals :) https://youtu.be/ysSNbtQ-0KI [post_title] => Test of the Dragon | Powertrix Ultralite Coilovers on a Z32 [post_excerpt] => Our Z32 Moderator puts the PowerTrix Ultralite coilovers through their paces on a Nissan 300ZX at the Tail of the Dragon. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => test-of-the-dragon-powertrix-ultralite-coilovers-on-a-z32 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-02 21:49:04 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-03 04:49:04 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=24866 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 26355 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2014-04-10 20:29:39 [post_date_gmt] => 2014-04-11 03:29:39 [post_content] => This tri-fold brochure was issued for the Japanese market dealerships in mid-1989 to announce the new Z. We scanned it for archiving, and figured you guys might enjoy adding it to your collection of Z memorabilia! [Click for full-size version.] [post_title] => Japanese Z32 300ZX Brochure [post_excerpt] => This tri-fold brochure was issued for the Japanese market dealerships in mid-1989 to announce the new Z. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => japanese-z32-300zx-brochure [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-04-10 20:39:45 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-04-11 03:39:45 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://www.nicoclub.com/?p=26355 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 26362 [post_author] => 2 [post_date] => 2016-04-11 23:14:01 [post_date_gmt] => 2016-04-12 06:14:01 [post_content] => by: David Muramoto In a year when crossover utility vehicles (CUVs) have become the best-selling vehicles in the North American market, Infiniti has something to marvel about. The smallest CUV they sell (at least until the new QX30 makes it to market as a 2017 model), the QX50 has been a hot selling model for the marque. Through the end of March, QX50 sales had improved by an astounding 570%, and helped Infiniti reach new sales records for the month. This from a vehicle that, on first glance, seems to be much the same as when it was first introduced in 2008 as the Infiniti EX35. Beyond name changes, sales incentives, lease packages and other maneuvers, what could explain this new-found popularity of the QX50? To find out, I drove hundreds of miles and spent an extended period with a 2016 QX50 RWD Touring package. The first thing to note was the beautiful finish and build quality of this Oppama-produced Infiniti. The “Midnight Garnet” color is one example of a metallic paint that changes hue depending on the angle and intensity of sunlight, but isn’t finicky (or too expensive) to apply at the factory. Combined with new LED running lights, LED fog lights, side sills, rear fascia and turning lights integrated into the mirrors, the QX50 has a familiar, yet updated, profile. Visually, its creased-edge, hatchback styling has weathered the years well and the QX50 still shows well. One quality that’s difficult to discern is a slightly stretched wheelbase, with 3.2” added to all QX50 models. This also affects the curving roofline slightly, as the hatchback profile is not as pronounced. Rear seat passengers will feel a big difference with this change, as the increase in rear legroom and headroom improves comfort markedly. Infiniti has broadened the appeal of the QX50 beyond carrying just two front seat passengers, and the model is now “right-sized” to carry four people in comfort. Beyond increasing the cargo capacity slightly, the longer wheelbase also could be felt while driving the QX50. At highway speeds, the ride is markedly better than the older EX35 models I’d driven earlier. Infiniti has obviously retuned dampers and spring rates to match the longer Front Midship (FM) chassis. Handling performance is also improved, as the longer wheelbase adds stability during high-speed maneuvering and negotiating off ramps. What wasn’t hard to get used to was the proven and powerful VQ37VHR that is now standard equipment in all QX50s. Making 325 HP at 7,000 RPM and 267 lb/ft TQ at 5,200 RPM, the powerband is broad and meaty. Even though it drives through a seven speed auto, this is a relaxed powertrain that doesn’t even need to shift down unless you really plant your right foot. And while the QX50 is no lightweight at 3,855 pounds, the VQ37VHR hauls this load quite easily. One downside is the requirement for premium unleaded and plenty of it; EPA figures are 17 city/24 highway (20 MPG combined). Between the torquey V6 and the longer wheelbase, the QX50 feels like a different vehicle from any of the EX35/37s I’d sampled previously. More stable at speed, with plenty of reserves in both power and handling on both dry and wet pavement. Four channel ABS brakes were equally strong, with meaty 12.6 X 1.3” vented discs up front and 12.1 X 0.6 units out back, although they were slightly overboosted. The old adage of “don’t fix what’s not broken” could certainly be applied to the sumptuous QX50 cabin. A chestnut leather interior added a nice contrast to the black IP, with polished walnut or piano black facings adding a touch of elegance. Beyond that, the central instrument pod houses a tach on the left, speedo on the right and multifunction gauge in the middle. These gauges use white and blue markings on a black background to convey information at a glance. And while the 7.0” full color center screen has limited touch screen capabilities, the display remains effective in conveying accurate navigation data. There’s also a Bluetooth hands-free phone system, RearView monitor and USB connection, which uses the 11-speaker BOSE sound system as part of the $500 Premium package. My only criticism is a lack of local attraction information on the nav system; a feature which used to be accessible through Infiniti navigation. One addition I played with throughout this journey was the Intelligent Cruise Control (ICC), included in the optional $2,750 Technology package. Using sonar sensors built into the front bumper, this system continuously monitors traffic ahead once a set speed was entered. On the highway, this proved to be a bit of a hindrance as the system would drop throttle and actively brake if slower traffic moved abruptly into my lane. It would have been a smoother transition to simply reduce throttle and use aero and tire drag to slow the QX50, but the system is set to maintain a preset following distance and can’t be over-ridden unless ICC is cancelled. Could this be a possible preview to a troublesome future with autonomous vehicles? Unclear, but ICC is one driver assistance option I wouldn’t mind deleting from any future purchases. More useful technology came in the form of the Blind Spot Warning feature, which uses cameras to let the driver know when another car was alongside and activates a light on the side mirror. If any of this sounds like skepticism towards modern technology designed to augment driver skill and awareness, then color this racecar driver-turned-automotive journalist a freethinker. It could also be a reason why the QX50 impressed in so many ways. Infiniti spent most of its mid-model update budget improving particular aspects of the CUV, but technology wasn’t the focus. Stretching the wheelbase, adding interior room where it was badly needed, and improving the driving dynamics are all tangible benefits in my view. Infiniti chose to retain most of the exterior styling, interior ergon