repair - NICOclub

All Infiniti Sunroof Motor Adjustment / Repair

December 10, 2009 by admin

"all-infiniti-sunroof-motor-adjustment-repair"

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                    [post_content] => All Infiniti Sunroof Motor Adjustments / Repairs

By:Q451990

Overview

If your sunroof is having trouble working as far as moving front to back, this may help you.Usually, the tilt function works fine.It won't appear to jam, or be off the track - and with even a small amount of assistance it will work fine. The motor will not sound like it's stressed as if something were jammed.

There was a Technical Service Bulletin issued on this matter:ITB90-037.

Clutch Slipping in the Sunroof Motor - The clutch preload is not within specification. The motor can be heard; however the sunroof lid will not open or close without assistance. The lid stops at various positions.

The TSB says that a "countermeasure" motor with "improved clutch manufacture" was implemented from 06/20/90 forward (VIN JNKNG01C*LM011735 and newer).

The TSB says that the solution is to replace the motor assuming that there aren't broken guides causing binding, or the sunroof lid isn't mis-aligned.

Don't despair, it's a relatively easy fix.

Here's a picture of the side of the motor facing downward when it's attached to the car.



Here's a picture of the top side of the motor that feeds the sunroof cables.



The red arrows are pointing to the adjustment for the clutch. The nut has a washer that is bent up to prevent the nut from turning on the keyed shaft.

To adjust the clutch:

1 - Bend the washer back to the flat position.
2 - Mark the current nut position relative to the flat part of the bolt by scratching it.
3 - Hold the bolt in place using an allen wrench on the other side.
4 - Turn the nut clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
5 - Bend the washer up to hold the nut in place.

In my case 1/4 turn was enough to fix the problem.

It's important to be sure that the motor slipping is the cause of your problems. In my case the motor was running fine, but it just wouldn't move the roof occasionally. With only a slight bit of help, the roof would start moving again and finish its cycle.

Adjusting the torque upward on a roof assembly that's binding or just needs lubrication could cause damage to the very expensive and difficult-to-replace sunroof cable assembly!

Another tip... make sure that you only remove and reinstall the motor with the roof in the closed position.

More sunroof repair issues:

If you look in the picture, the limit switches are on the left. Does your motor go right on past the stop point to the "tilt open" position, or it just stops in a slightly wrong position? If it's just not parking at exactly right spot, you can adjust it using the allen screw that the red arrow is pointing to in the first picture - that can even be done only removing the lighting/switch cluster without pulling the finisher.

If it's going straight on to the "tilt open" position, it's possible that the motor was installed at the wrong point in it's cycle during a prior repair. If so you'll have to pull the finisher around the visors and remove the motor after getting the roof set to the point that you want it to be when it's closed. Then you can cycle the motor backward, forward to the first stop, and reinstall. I know all of this is confusing to read, but it'll make more sense after you have the motor removed and see how it works using the switch to cycle the motor.

Also the TSB mentions that some of the early Q's, up to 01/15/1990 DOM, and VIN JNKNG01C*LM007337 had possible limit switch issues...

In either case, cycling the motor when it's not mounted back to the closed (but not tilt position) may help.
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By:Q451990

Overview

If your sunroof is having trouble working as far as moving front to back, this may help you.Usually, the tilt function works fine.It won't appear to jam, or be off the track - and with even a small amount of assistance it will work fine. The motor will not sound like it's stressed as if something were jammed.

There was a Technical Service Bulletin issued on this matter:ITB90-037.

Clutch Slipping in the Sunroof Motor - The clutch preload is not within specification. The motor can be heard; however the sunroof lid will not open or close without assistance. The lid stops at various positions.

The TSB says that a "countermeasure" motor with "improved clutch manufacture" was implemented from 06/20/90 forward (VIN JNKNG01C*LM011735 and newer).

The TSB says that the solution is to replace the motor assuming that there aren't broken guides causing binding, or the sunroof lid isn't mis-aligned.

Don't despair, it's a relatively easy fix.

Here's a picture of the side of the motor facing downward when it's attached to the car.



Here's a picture of the top side of the motor that feeds the sunroof cables.



The red arrows are pointing to the adjustment for the clutch. The nut has a washer that is bent up to prevent the nut from turning on the keyed shaft.

To adjust the clutch:

1 - Bend the washer back to the flat position.
2 - Mark the current nut position relative to the flat part of the bolt by scratching it.
3 - Hold the bolt in place using an allen wrench on the other side.
4 - Turn the nut clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
5 - Bend the washer up to hold the nut in place.

In my case 1/4 turn was enough to fix the problem.

It's important to be sure that the motor slipping is the cause of your problems. In my case the motor was running fine, but it just wouldn't move the roof occasionally. With only a slight bit of help, the roof would start moving again and finish its cycle.

Adjusting the torque upward on a roof assembly that's binding or just needs lubrication could cause damage to the very expensive and difficult-to-replace sunroof cable assembly!

Another tip... make sure that you only remove and reinstall the motor with the roof in the closed position.

More sunroof repair issues:

If you look in the picture, the limit switches are on the left. Does your motor go right on past the stop point to the "tilt open" position, or it just stops in a slightly wrong position? If it's just not parking at exactly right spot, you can adjust it using the allen screw that the red arrow is pointing to in the first picture - that can even be done only removing the lighting/switch cluster without pulling the finisher.

If it's going straight on to the "tilt open" position, it's possible that the motor was installed at the wrong point in it's cycle during a prior repair. If so you'll have to pull the finisher around the visors and remove the motor after getting the roof set to the point that you want it to be when it's closed. Then you can cycle the motor backward, forward to the first stop, and reinstall. I know all of this is confusing to read, but it'll make more sense after you have the motor removed and see how it works using the switch to cycle the motor.

Also the TSB mentions that some of the early Q's, up to 01/15/1990 DOM, and VIN JNKNG01C*LM007337 had possible limit switch issues...

In either case, cycling the motor when it's not mounted back to the closed (but not tilt position) may help.
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All Infiniti Sunroof Motor Adjustments / Repairs By:Q451990 Overview If your sunroof is having trouble working as far as moving front to back, this may help you.Usually, the tilt function works fine.It won’t appear to jam, or be off the track – and with even a small amount of assistance it will work fine. The […]

Windshield Repair FAQ

December 10, 2009 by admin

"windshield-repair-faq"

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                    [post_content] => Everything You Wanted To Know About Windshields - By StarPD

First, windshield repair will NOT keep a windshield from cracking. It is a cosmetic repair only, and is a colossal waste of money.

Second, never try to replace a windshield yourself. That requires extensive knowledge and skill. I recall one individual who wanted to pull a windshield from a wrecked car in a junkyard and install it himself in his car. Bad idea, and terribly false economy, which probably wouldn't work anyway, and would likely result in the replacement glass cracking eventually and/or leaks.

Many states have what is known as "full glass coverage" either with a deductible or NO deductible. You must have comprehensive and collision coverage (also known as "full coverage") and surprisingly, it's relatively inexpensive. Be sure to discuss with your agent exactly what coverage you can get, what it will cost, and what the terms are.

If you do get your windshield replaced, NEVER, EVER use those represented by hawkers at car washes, gas stations, or in TV commercials, especially the ones that offer free diamonds, steaks, dinners, or other come-ons. They almost always use aftermarket glass, which frequently is of poor optical quality, and frequently doesn't fit properly. These companies pay beginning techs $7 to $9 per hour, and require them to do 10 jobs per day, including travel time.

See, aftermarket glass manufacturers re-use the dies that are used to cut the windshield too many times. Each cut removes some of the die. When worn, the glass ends up being cut too small, and results in cracking and/or leaks. OEM glass requires that the dies be used only a limited number of times, and is carefully checked for optical distortion. That's why OEM glass costs more than aftermaket glass. Sometimes that distortion is not apparent, but can result in eye strain and even headaches.

Don't use the 800 numbers insurance companies use to get your windshield replaced either. They usually use substandard glass companies that employ amateur techs and aftermarket glass. Instead, use your insurance AGENT to personally recommend a local glass company that he works with and that he knows uses OEM glass, and has qualified techs.

If you can't get a referral from your agent, check with your local dealer. They will usually have access to someone who only uses OEM glass.

Here's some insight on the glass companies who use come-ons. Reputable local glass companies cannot afford to wait 9 to 12 months to get their money. If they bill the insurance company direct, which by law, they can, they must wait for their money. So they bill through what is known as a glass network, of which each insurance company has one they use. These networks get the money to the glass companies quickly and without undue delay, but they set the heavily discounted price. They leave enough for the glass company to profit, but not overcharge them or make excessive profits. The come-on glass outfits charge the insurance companies full list and inflated labor charges though, and since they make so much money, they can afford to wait to get their bucks. It's not to the benefit of customers though.

Reputable glass companies work through insurance agents, almost always use OEM glass and have highly qualified technicians.  We and our good competitors use OEM glass and pay our techs a lot more (because we have to in order to get good ones), and require a minimum of 6 jobs per day, with a maximum of 8. As an example, some newer technicians with reputable glass installers make $26 per hour. That's what it takes to get the good techs. Since we work through agents, we absolutely MUST have top technicians.

Do NOT shop by yourself for windshield replacement based on price. You WILL get what you pay for. Instead, once again, rely on your insurance agent to send you to 2 or 3 to compare prices from.

If you do experience a cracked windshield, you could get a citation for it, as this is illegal in many States. Call your insurance agent, and even if you don't have full glass coverage, ask him to recommend a GOOD local glass company that uses OEM glass and has experienced technicians. ALL of the good ones will come to your home or business to do the job, so you won't have to worry about getting the car to them and leaving it all day, depending on someone else for transportation to and from their shop. Don't worry about downtime. The company you choose will call you and schedule your job at a convenient time for you, either at your home or work/school. You WILL have to be available to verify the work though, so be sure to take that into account when you set the appointment.

Another note. Sometimes they get hung up on a job, so times are approximate, not "hard" appointments. Do be sure to quickly go over the car while the tech is there so that if any collateral damage occurs, there's no argument as to how it happened or who did it. Sometimes the repair process does create minor damage to headliners or other associated areas. The glass company is responsible for taking care of any damage, and will usually do so without quarrel. I know that on the rare occasion we encounter that, we step up to the plate without argument or hassle. Any reputable glass company that your agent recommends will do the same. Don't worry though. While it happens occasionally, it's not common, and you shouldn't have any problem. Just protect yourself up front, and remember, the installer is working for you and your continued business.
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            [post_content] => Everything You Wanted To Know About Windshields - By StarPD

First, windshield repair will NOT keep a windshield from cracking. It is a cosmetic repair only, and is a colossal waste of money.

Second, never try to replace a windshield yourself. That requires extensive knowledge and skill. I recall one individual who wanted to pull a windshield from a wrecked car in a junkyard and install it himself in his car. Bad idea, and terribly false economy, which probably wouldn't work anyway, and would likely result in the replacement glass cracking eventually and/or leaks.

Many states have what is known as "full glass coverage" either with a deductible or NO deductible. You must have comprehensive and collision coverage (also known as "full coverage") and surprisingly, it's relatively inexpensive. Be sure to discuss with your agent exactly what coverage you can get, what it will cost, and what the terms are.

If you do get your windshield replaced, NEVER, EVER use those represented by hawkers at car washes, gas stations, or in TV commercials, especially the ones that offer free diamonds, steaks, dinners, or other come-ons. They almost always use aftermarket glass, which frequently is of poor optical quality, and frequently doesn't fit properly. These companies pay beginning techs $7 to $9 per hour, and require them to do 10 jobs per day, including travel time.

See, aftermarket glass manufacturers re-use the dies that are used to cut the windshield too many times. Each cut removes some of the die. When worn, the glass ends up being cut too small, and results in cracking and/or leaks. OEM glass requires that the dies be used only a limited number of times, and is carefully checked for optical distortion. That's why OEM glass costs more than aftermaket glass. Sometimes that distortion is not apparent, but can result in eye strain and even headaches.

Don't use the 800 numbers insurance companies use to get your windshield replaced either. They usually use substandard glass companies that employ amateur techs and aftermarket glass. Instead, use your insurance AGENT to personally recommend a local glass company that he works with and that he knows uses OEM glass, and has qualified techs.

If you can't get a referral from your agent, check with your local dealer. They will usually have access to someone who only uses OEM glass.

Here's some insight on the glass companies who use come-ons. Reputable local glass companies cannot afford to wait 9 to 12 months to get their money. If they bill the insurance company direct, which by law, they can, they must wait for their money. So they bill through what is known as a glass network, of which each insurance company has one they use. These networks get the money to the glass companies quickly and without undue delay, but they set the heavily discounted price. They leave enough for the glass company to profit, but not overcharge them or make excessive profits. The come-on glass outfits charge the insurance companies full list and inflated labor charges though, and since they make so much money, they can afford to wait to get their bucks. It's not to the benefit of customers though.

Reputable glass companies work through insurance agents, almost always use OEM glass and have highly qualified technicians.  We and our good competitors use OEM glass and pay our techs a lot more (because we have to in order to get good ones), and require a minimum of 6 jobs per day, with a maximum of 8. As an example, some newer technicians with reputable glass installers make $26 per hour. That's what it takes to get the good techs. Since we work through agents, we absolutely MUST have top technicians.

Do NOT shop by yourself for windshield replacement based on price. You WILL get what you pay for. Instead, once again, rely on your insurance agent to send you to 2 or 3 to compare prices from.

If you do experience a cracked windshield, you could get a citation for it, as this is illegal in many States. Call your insurance agent, and even if you don't have full glass coverage, ask him to recommend a GOOD local glass company that uses OEM glass and has experienced technicians. ALL of the good ones will come to your home or business to do the job, so you won't have to worry about getting the car to them and leaving it all day, depending on someone else for transportation to and from their shop. Don't worry about downtime. The company you choose will call you and schedule your job at a convenient time for you, either at your home or work/school. You WILL have to be available to verify the work though, so be sure to take that into account when you set the appointment.

Another note. Sometimes they get hung up on a job, so times are approximate, not "hard" appointments. Do be sure to quickly go over the car while the tech is there so that if any collateral damage occurs, there's no argument as to how it happened or who did it. Sometimes the repair process does create minor damage to headliners or other associated areas. The glass company is responsible for taking care of any damage, and will usually do so without quarrel. I know that on the rare occasion we encounter that, we step up to the plate without argument or hassle. Any reputable glass company that your agent recommends will do the same. Don't worry though. While it happens occasionally, it's not common, and you shouldn't have any problem. Just protect yourself up front, and remember, the installer is working for you and your continued business.
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Everything You Wanted To Know About Windshields – By StarPD First, windshield repair will NOT keep a windshield from cracking. It is a cosmetic repair only, and is a colossal waste of money. Second, never try to replace a windshield yourself. That requires extensive knowledge and skill. I recall one individual who wanted to pull […]

G35 door lock fix

December 10, 2009 by admin

"g35-door-lock-fix"

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                    [post_content] => So I, as many, have dead door lock motors on my 03 coupe which is out of warranty. I was pretty disgusted with the dealer cost of ~150 for a door lock motor especially since i know from installing alarms and power door locks (in college) that aftermarket door lock motors cost less than 10 bucks. I bought this door lock motor:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...0-010
And installed it as shown in the pics below. 
- I made the bracket holding the motor (.06" thick 5052 aluminum)
- drilled a hole in the door handle housing for the rod to pass through 
- clipped off part of the plastic door lock lever 
- trimmed some of the plastic ribs on the inside of the door panel to make clearance for the motor.
- Cut the wires going to the factory motor and hooked directly to the new motor. You can find the wires inside the door below the speaker (take out the speaker). I brought them out the rubber boot above the speaker.
Again... cost was $5... 
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            [post_content] => So I, as many, have dead door lock motors on my 03 coupe which is out of warranty. I was pretty disgusted with the dealer cost of ~150 for a door lock motor especially since i know from installing alarms and power door locks (in college) that aftermarket door lock motors cost less than 10 bucks. 
I bought this door lock motor:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...0-010
And installed it as shown in the pics below. 
- I made the bracket holding the motor (.06" thick 5052 aluminum)
- drilled a hole in the door handle housing for the rod to pass through 
- clipped off part of the plastic door lock lever 
- trimmed some of the plastic ribs on the inside of the door panel to make clearance for the motor.
- Cut the wires going to the factory motor and hooked directly to the new motor. You can find the wires inside the door below the speaker (take out the speaker). I brought them out the rubber boot above the speaker.
Again... cost was $5... 
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So I, as many, have dead door lock motors on my 03 coupe which is out of warranty. I was pretty disgusted with the dealer cost of ~150 for a door lock motor especially since i know from installing alarms and power door locks (in college) that aftermarket door lock motors cost less than 10 […]

Infiniti ECU Codes

December 10, 2009 by admin

"infiniti-ecu-codes"

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Without OBD II
On G20 models, the ECU is located behind the center console. On J30, M30 and Q45 models, the ECU is located behind the RH kick panel.

If a malfunction occurs within the ECU/fuel injection system, a diagnostic trouble code may be stored in the ECU and the ‘‘Check Engine’’ lamp will blink. There is also a lamp built into the ECU which will concurrently blink.

To read Code output, proceed as follows:

1. Turn ignition On, but do not start engine.

2. Using a small screwdriver, turn diagnostic mode selector switch, located on side of ECU, fully clockwise.

3. Wait two seconds, then rotate switch to full counterclockwise position.

4. A malfunction code can be read as the long (0.6 second) blink, indicating the first digit of a two digit number and the short (0.3 second) blink, indicating the second digit.

Note: Ensure that the diagnostic switch is to the full counterclockwise position whenever the vehicle is in use.

w/OBD II
On Infinitis built after 96, connect a suitable Scan Tool to the DLC, located under the instrument panel fuse box cover (driver's left knee).

Clearing Codes
If using a scan tool, follow tool manufacturer’s instructions to clear Codes.

A second, though more time consuming method of clearing codes involves using a small screwdriver to turn the diagnostic mode selector switch, located on the side of the ECM/ECU, fully clockwise. After waiting two seconds, rotate the switch to the full counterclockwise position. The diagnosis will end and memory will then be cleared.

List of Codes

Pre-OBDII

11 Crank Angle Sensor

12 Mass Air Flow Sensor

13 ECT Sensor

14 Vehicle Speed Sensor

16 TCS Signal

21 Ignition Signal Circuit

25 Idle Air Control Valve

22 Fuel Pump Control

31 ECM

32 EGR Function

33 Heated Oxygen Sensor

34 Knock Sensor

35 EGR Temperature Sensor (RH)

41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor

42 Fuel Pump Sensor

43 Throttle Position Sensor

45 Injector Leak

46 Secondary Throttle Sensor

51 Injector Analysis

53 Exhaust Gas Sensor (LH)

54 Signal Circuit From A/T Control Unit To ECM

55 System OK (1990-1995 Q45 only)

65-71 Single Cylinder Or Multiple Cylinder Misfire

72 Three Way catalyst Function

76 Fuel Injection System Function

77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor

82 Crankshaft Position Sensor

84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line

91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater

103 Park/Neutral Position Switch

105 EGR & Canister Control Solenoid

OBD2 Codes

P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated

P0100 MAF Sensor

P0105 Absolute Pressure Sensor

P0110 IAT Sensor

P0115 ECT Sensor

P0120 TP Sensor

P0125 ECT Sensor

P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1

P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring

P0132 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Rich Shift Monitoring

P0133 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Response Monitoring

P0134 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 High Voltage

P0135 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 1

P0136 Rear O2S, Bank 1

P0137 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Minimum Voltage Monitoring

P0138 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring

P0139 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Response Monitoring

P0140 Rear O2S, Bank 1 High Voltage

P0141 Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1

P0150 Closed Loop, Bank 2 Or Front O2S, Bank 2

P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring

P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring

P0153 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Response Monitoring

P0154 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 High Voltage

P0155 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 2

P0156 Rear H02S Sensor, LH Bank

P0157–P0160 Rear O2S, Bank 2

P0161 Rear H02S Heater, LH Bank Or Bank 2

P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1

P0172 Fuel System Rich, Bank 1

P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2

P0175 Fuel System Rich, Bank 2

P0180 Tank Fuel Temp Sensor

P0300 Random Misfire

P0301–P0308 Misfire, Cylinder No. 1–8

P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1

P0330 Knock Sensor, Bank 2

P0335 CKP Sensor (Pos)

P0340 CMP

P0400 EGR System

P0402 EGRC/BPT Valve

P0403 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit

P0420 TW Catalyst System, Bank 1

P0430 TW Catalyst System, Bank 2

P0440 EVAP Small Leak

P0443 Purge Control/V & S/V

P0446 Vent Control Valve

P0450 EVAP Pressure Sensor

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor

P0505 IACV/AAC Valve

P0510 Closed TP Sensor

P0600 A/T Comm Line

P0605 ECM/ECU

P0705 PNP Or Inhibitor Switch

P0710 ATF Temp Sensor

P0720 VSS A/T

P0725 Engine Speed Signal

P0731 A/T 1ST Signal

P0732 A/T 2ND Signal

P0733 A/T 3RD Signal

P0734 A/T 4TH Signal Or TCC

P0740 TCC SV Solenoid

P0744 A/T TCC Signal

P0745 Line Pressure S/V

P0750 Shift Solenoid/V A

P0755 Shift Solenoid/V B

P1105 MAP/BARO Switch SOL/V

P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank

P1120 TP Sensor 2

P1125 Tandem TP Sensor

P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve

P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank 2

P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 1

P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, LH Bank 2

P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1

P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch

P1168 Closed Loop, Bank 2

P1210 Traction Control Signal Circuit

P1220 FPCM

P1320 Ignition Signal, Primary

P1335 CKP Sensor (Ref)

P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) Cog

P1400 EGRC Solenoid/V

P1401 EGR Temp Sensor

P1402 EGR System

P1440 EVAP Small Leak

P1441 VC/V Bypass/V

P1443 Canister Control Vacuum Check Switch

P1444 Purge Volume Control/V

P1445 Purge Volume Control/V

P1446 Vent Control Valve

P1447 EVAP Purge Flow

P1448 Vent Control Valve

P1490 VC/V Bypass/V

P1491 VC Cut/V Bypass/V

P1492 Purge Control/V S/V

P1493 Purge Control/V & S/V

P1605 A/T Diag Comm Line

P1705 TP Sensor A/T

P1706 PNP Switch

P1760 Overrun Clutch S/V

P1900 Cooling Fan
                    [post_title] => Infiniti ECU Codes
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Without OBD II
On G20 models, the ECU is located behind the center console. On J30, M30 and Q45 models, the ECU is located behind the RH kick panel.

If a malfunction occurs within the ECU/fuel injection system, a diagnostic trouble code may be stored in the ECU and the ‘‘Check Engine’’ lamp will blink. There is also a lamp built into the ECU which will concurrently blink.

To read Code output, proceed as follows:

1. Turn ignition On, but do not start engine.

2. Using a small screwdriver, turn diagnostic mode selector switch, located on side of ECU, fully clockwise.

3. Wait two seconds, then rotate switch to full counterclockwise position.

4. A malfunction code can be read as the long (0.6 second) blink, indicating the first digit of a two digit number and the short (0.3 second) blink, indicating the second digit.

Note: Ensure that the diagnostic switch is to the full counterclockwise position whenever the vehicle is in use.

w/OBD II
On Infinitis built after 96, connect a suitable Scan Tool to the DLC, located under the instrument panel fuse box cover (driver's left knee).

Clearing Codes
If using a scan tool, follow tool manufacturer’s instructions to clear Codes.

A second, though more time consuming method of clearing codes involves using a small screwdriver to turn the diagnostic mode selector switch, located on the side of the ECM/ECU, fully clockwise. After waiting two seconds, rotate the switch to the full counterclockwise position. The diagnosis will end and memory will then be cleared.

List of Codes

Pre-OBDII

11 Crank Angle Sensor

12 Mass Air Flow Sensor

13 ECT Sensor

14 Vehicle Speed Sensor

16 TCS Signal

21 Ignition Signal Circuit

25 Idle Air Control Valve

22 Fuel Pump Control

31 ECM

32 EGR Function

33 Heated Oxygen Sensor

34 Knock Sensor

35 EGR Temperature Sensor (RH)

41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor

42 Fuel Pump Sensor

43 Throttle Position Sensor

45 Injector Leak

46 Secondary Throttle Sensor

51 Injector Analysis

53 Exhaust Gas Sensor (LH)

54 Signal Circuit From A/T Control Unit To ECM

55 System OK (1990-1995 Q45 only)

65-71 Single Cylinder Or Multiple Cylinder Misfire

72 Three Way catalyst Function

76 Fuel Injection System Function

77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor

82 Crankshaft Position Sensor

84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line

91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater

103 Park/Neutral Position Switch

105 EGR & Canister Control Solenoid

OBD2 Codes

P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated

P0100 MAF Sensor

P0105 Absolute Pressure Sensor

P0110 IAT Sensor

P0115 ECT Sensor

P0120 TP Sensor

P0125 ECT Sensor

P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1

P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring

P0132 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Rich Shift Monitoring

P0133 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Response Monitoring

P0134 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 High Voltage

P0135 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 1

P0136 Rear O2S, Bank 1

P0137 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Minimum Voltage Monitoring

P0138 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring

P0139 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Response Monitoring

P0140 Rear O2S, Bank 1 High Voltage

P0141 Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1

P0150 Closed Loop, Bank 2 Or Front O2S, Bank 2

P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring

P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring

P0153 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Response Monitoring

P0154 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 High Voltage

P0155 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 2

P0156 Rear H02S Sensor, LH Bank

P0157–P0160 Rear O2S, Bank 2

P0161 Rear H02S Heater, LH Bank Or Bank 2

P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1

P0172 Fuel System Rich, Bank 1

P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2

P0175 Fuel System Rich, Bank 2

P0180 Tank Fuel Temp Sensor

P0300 Random Misfire

P0301–P0308 Misfire, Cylinder No. 1–8

P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1

P0330 Knock Sensor, Bank 2

P0335 CKP Sensor (Pos)

P0340 CMP

P0400 EGR System

P0402 EGRC/BPT Valve

P0403 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit

P0420 TW Catalyst System, Bank 1

P0430 TW Catalyst System, Bank 2

P0440 EVAP Small Leak

P0443 Purge Control/V & S/V

P0446 Vent Control Valve

P0450 EVAP Pressure Sensor

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor

P0505 IACV/AAC Valve

P0510 Closed TP Sensor

P0600 A/T Comm Line

P0605 ECM/ECU

P0705 PNP Or Inhibitor Switch

P0710 ATF Temp Sensor

P0720 VSS A/T

P0725 Engine Speed Signal

P0731 A/T 1ST Signal

P0732 A/T 2ND Signal

P0733 A/T 3RD Signal

P0734 A/T 4TH Signal Or TCC

P0740 TCC SV Solenoid

P0744 A/T TCC Signal

P0745 Line Pressure S/V

P0750 Shift Solenoid/V A

P0755 Shift Solenoid/V B

P1105 MAP/BARO Switch SOL/V

P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank

P1120 TP Sensor 2

P1125 Tandem TP Sensor

P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve

P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank 2

P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 1

P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, LH Bank 2

P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1

P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch

P1168 Closed Loop, Bank 2

P1210 Traction Control Signal Circuit

P1220 FPCM

P1320 Ignition Signal, Primary

P1335 CKP Sensor (Ref)

P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) Cog

P1400 EGRC Solenoid/V

P1401 EGR Temp Sensor

P1402 EGR System

P1440 EVAP Small Leak

P1441 VC/V Bypass/V

P1443 Canister Control Vacuum Check Switch

P1444 Purge Volume Control/V

P1445 Purge Volume Control/V

P1446 Vent Control Valve

P1447 EVAP Purge Flow

P1448 Vent Control Valve

P1490 VC/V Bypass/V

P1491 VC Cut/V Bypass/V

P1492 Purge Control/V S/V

P1493 Purge Control/V & S/V

P1605 A/T Diag Comm Line

P1705 TP Sensor A/T

P1706 PNP Switch

P1760 Overrun Clutch S/V

P1900 Cooling Fan
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"

Without OBD II On G20 models, the ECU is located behind the center console. On J30, M30 and Q45 models, the ECU is located behind the RH kick panel. If a malfunction occurs within the ECU/fuel injection system, a diagnostic trouble code may be stored in the ECU and the ‘‘Check Engine’’ lamp will blink. […]

240SX How To: Removing/Replacing your PS pump

December 10, 2009 by Aaron

"sx-how-to-removingreplacing-your-ps-pump"

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                    [post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43
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                    [post_content] =>   


1991-1994 Nissan 240sx




$120 (New)




2-4 Hours



NICOclub Rating System



babowc



Tools:
- Socket wrench
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 15/16 or 26(??mm wrench
- Socket extensions and adapters.. long the better!
- Rubber mallet/hammer (i didn't have a rubber mallet)
- Screwdriver (positive +)
- Low-profile bucket to put under the car, in case of spills (oil pans?)

Materials:

- 1 or 2 bottles of ATF fluid, Mercon Dexron III.
- Power steering pump, lines



Procedure:

*place the pan underneat the driver's side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm's (ps fluid's) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)



2) Un-do the bottom hose using a + screwdriver and point the rubber hose upwards so the PS fluid (ATF fluid) doesn't spill everywhere.

*point both fittings upwards so they don't leak ps fluid everywhere!*





3) Using the 14mm socket, start unbolting the belt tensioner for the PS pump and water pump. un-do the 14mm bolt until the belt is able to be taken off.



4) Start taking off the bottom tensioner-holder thing. (careful, there is a washer in-between the pump, don't lose it.)

*after you take it all off, it should look like this*



5) Rotate the PS pump pulley until you have access to the main bolt holding the pump to the bracket.

6) Using 14mm socket, unbolt the main bolt holding the ps pump up.



7) Pull on the pump and it should slide right out!



That is all for removing the PS pump, pat yourself on the back!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

***To Replace the PS pump***

1) Check to see if your pump is for the correct application!!! I cannot stress this enough, because I burst my PS high pressure hose (thus the ss braided lines) because I used a S14 pump which creates about 1300 psi, compared to the 1100 psi that the S13 PS pump creates!!!


*Left pump is the S13 PS pump, the two bolts should have a bracket on it, but i took mine off*
*only differences are that the S13 PS pump has the brackets and 2 Bolts holding it, but the S14 PS pump does not*

2) Locate where the PS pump was held on to the bracket. You will see a washer-type thing that pushes the pump against the bracket as the main bolt is being screwed in.

Use the hammer and tap it back out, hitting the inside to make it closer to the bracket.





3) Take the steps backwards from removing the PS pump.

4) When installing the belt tensioner, don't forget to put the washer in-between the tensioner assembly.



5) Re-connect the rubber hose from the PS reservoir first, then re-connect the 15/16 bolt onto the PS pump. I only tightened it with a hammer, but this is not recommended!

find yourself a Torque Wrench and tighten to correct ft/lbs ~65ft/lbs



*HAND TIGHTEN FIRST!!! MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CROSS-THREAD as it is VERY easy to do so.*

6) Replace the belt connecting to the water pump, PS pump, and the crank pulley and tighten the bottom part of the tensioner first and start tightening the long bolt for the tensioner.

Tighten until the belt is firm. *you can check the tightness by pushing down on the belt moderately hard and give it movement about .5 in up and down.

Reinstall everything else and take your car out for a test drive.
Try to go from lock to lock to check for any leaks.


                    [post_title] => 240SX How To: Removing/Replacing your PS pump
                    [post_excerpt] => *place the pan underneat the driver's side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm's (ps fluid's) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)
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                    [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 23:22:52
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            [post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43
            [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 20:23:43
            [post_content] =>   


1991-1994 Nissan 240sx




$120 (New)




2-4 Hours



NICOclub Rating System



babowc



Tools:
- Socket wrench
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 15/16 or 26(??mm wrench
- Socket extensions and adapters.. long the better!
- Rubber mallet/hammer (i didn't have a rubber mallet)
- Screwdriver (positive +)
- Low-profile bucket to put under the car, in case of spills (oil pans?)

Materials:

- 1 or 2 bottles of ATF fluid, Mercon Dexron III.
- Power steering pump, lines



Procedure:

*place the pan underneat the driver's side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm's (ps fluid's) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)



2) Un-do the bottom hose using a + screwdriver and point the rubber hose upwards so the PS fluid (ATF fluid) doesn't spill everywhere.

*point both fittings upwards so they don't leak ps fluid everywhere!*





3) Using the 14mm socket, start unbolting the belt tensioner for the PS pump and water pump. un-do the 14mm bolt until the belt is able to be taken off.



4) Start taking off the bottom tensioner-holder thing. (careful, there is a washer in-between the pump, don't lose it.)

*after you take it all off, it should look like this*



5) Rotate the PS pump pulley until you have access to the main bolt holding the pump to the bracket.

6) Using 14mm socket, unbolt the main bolt holding the ps pump up.



7) Pull on the pump and it should slide right out!



That is all for removing the PS pump, pat yourself on the back!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

***To Replace the PS pump***

1) Check to see if your pump is for the correct application!!! I cannot stress this enough, because I burst my PS high pressure hose (thus the ss braided lines) because I used a S14 pump which creates about 1300 psi, compared to the 1100 psi that the S13 PS pump creates!!!


*Left pump is the S13 PS pump, the two bolts should have a bracket on it, but i took mine off*
*only differences are that the S13 PS pump has the brackets and 2 Bolts holding it, but the S14 PS pump does not*

2) Locate where the PS pump was held on to the bracket. You will see a washer-type thing that pushes the pump against the bracket as the main bolt is being screwed in.

Use the hammer and tap it back out, hitting the inside to make it closer to the bracket.





3) Take the steps backwards from removing the PS pump.

4) When installing the belt tensioner, don't forget to put the washer in-between the tensioner assembly.



5) Re-connect the rubber hose from the PS reservoir first, then re-connect the 15/16 bolt onto the PS pump. I only tightened it with a hammer, but this is not recommended!

find yourself a Torque Wrench and tighten to correct ft/lbs ~65ft/lbs



*HAND TIGHTEN FIRST!!! MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CROSS-THREAD as it is VERY easy to do so.*

6) Replace the belt connecting to the water pump, PS pump, and the crank pulley and tighten the bottom part of the tensioner first and start tightening the long bolt for the tensioner.

Tighten until the belt is firm. *you can check the tightness by pushing down on the belt moderately hard and give it movement about .5 in up and down.

Reinstall everything else and take your car out for a test drive.
Try to go from lock to lock to check for any leaks.


            [post_title] => 240SX How To: Removing/Replacing your PS pump
            [post_excerpt] => *place the pan underneat the driver's side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm's (ps fluid's) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)
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            [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 23:22:52
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"

*place the pan underneat the driver’s side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm’s (ps fluid’s) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)