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How To Transform a Q45 Passenger Seat to a Driver Seat

December 31, 2009 by Greg

"how-to-transform-a-passenger-seat-to-a-driver-seat-infiniti-q"

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                    [post_content] => 
About 4 years ago, another NICO member gave me a seat from a 94 Q, only thing is it was a passenger seat. It did not include any of the frame brackets, just essentially the seat pads. It was in pretty good shape, so I threw it up in the attic.. Since I had some free time today, I cleaned the car and replaced the drivers tail light (had a small crack)... I was feeling good, so I decided to try and retrofit my extra passenger seat to the drivers side.

My interior is in about 9/10 condition, outside of the drivers seat.. Which is typical with most cars, since every mile driven theres someone in the drivers seat... at least i'd hope so..  I read somewhere that the drivers and passenger seat could be interchanged with some work, so I figured I had an afternoon to burn so what the heck!

We all know the seat comes out of the car with 4- 14mm bolts, and I pull my seats out every so often to clean under them to find old french fries, and usually i find about $5..

BEFORE removing the seat from the car, make sure that the front and rear mechanisms are all the way up... This will make your life much easier!!!

Seat out of the car... Not in good shape, but not horrible.  I've definitely seen worse...





Unfortunately, this time I only found 4 cents ($0.04), so it was not as big of a pay day as it was usually..



The new seat pads, clearly they are in much better shape..



So the first step in doing this you must remove the seat back.. There are 4 bolts holding it onto the seat bottom (2 on each side).. Pictured is one side, the 2 motors you see are the front and rear lifting motors.



Heres a picture of the seat back separated from the seat bottom



Next step is to remove the seat bottom from the seat rail... Pictured is the new seat to more closely show the 4 bolts that hold the cushion onto the sliding rail... 2 bolts horizontal on the front, 2 vertical on the rear..



Sorry the focus is off on this, but here you can see the seat rails and cushion seperated



Since the 94s have the LAN system, in order for things to play nicely together, the electronics and wiring must be swapped from the passenger seat to the drivers seat... This is the drivers seat with its electronics removed



The electronics do not bolt up perfect to the passenger side seat frame, but i was able to line up 2 screw holes, which I figure is enough to hold the seat controller in place... This picture shows the seat controller with seat frame on the new seat cushion. I plugged in as many electrical harnesses as I could to get a good idea how it needed to be oriented. Once I did, I moved the seat controller around a bit until I got it screwed in place securely.



Next, the brackets that hold the seat back to the seat bottom are not compatible from drivers side to passenger side. So, in order to take a passenger side seat back and adapt it to a drivers side seat bottom, you must remove the brackets.. The brackets are held in place with 2 bolts, however you must remove the bottom 2 hogrings on each side to access the bolts. Here is a picture of the bolts holding the brackets onto the seat back.



The seat brackets will only go onto the seat one way, so you really cant get it backwards, and they go right onto the passenger side seat.. What you are actually removing is the brackets, as well as the tilt mechanism, which consists of a motor and a rod that goes across to the other side which makes each side move equally.



After the brackets are swapped, the seat bottom will bolt directly to the seat back.. here is a pic of them assembled.



If you are like me, and did NOT set both cushion lifting mechanisms all the way up or down, you must remove the motor, manually push the mechanism, install the seat into the car and with the motor unbolted from the seat frame, move it all the way down, then reinstall it on the seat



All of the electrical harnesses work 100% fine, as you're using 99% of the electronics and wiring from the drivers side seat anyway.. So everything plugs and goes, the only thing that I came across that did not work directly was the power head rests. Since the drivers seat has memory seats, and the passenger side does not, the head rest has a position sensor on the same harness.. The difference is simply 2 pins



I was really concerned I would lose my power headrests, since I use those on a daily basis, so I was determined to make this work properly.. A quick look at the wiring diagram shows that the drivers side and passenger side share the exact same wire colors, all you have to do is switch the connectors.. Since your going from a passenger side headrest to a drivers side seat controller, I took the drivers side harness and switched the 7 pin connector to the 5 pin connector.. That is, I took the large (seat side connector), not the smaller controller side connector..


This part is a bit tricky, but it can be done.. There is a yellow retainer that you simply pry off gently.. Then, use a tiny screwdriver to press up on a little plastic clip.. The pins will come right out of the connector...



From here, all you have to do is plug the connector back into the headrest harness on the seat, and match the colors up.. The pins will click right into place, and you then put the retainer back in. You will have 2 extra wires for the sensor, and I just left those hanging around..



So now, the job is complete and you just bolt the seat back into the car... The end result is I have a nice looking seat, and no one would know that it came from the other side of the car unless they were REALLY smart...





All in all, I'm super happy with how everything came out... There are only 2 features I lost by doing this, and that is the memory seats and the lumbar support, which honestly I don't think it did anything when I had it, so I don't miss it at all.  The memory seats stopped working for no reason after the 5 speed swap, and I am the only person who drives the car so its not a big deal...
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About 4 years ago, another NICO member gave me a seat from a 94 Q, only thing is it was a passenger seat. It did not include any of the frame brackets, just essentially the seat pads. It was in pretty good shape, so I threw it up in the attic.. Since I had some free time today, I cleaned the car and replaced the drivers tail light (had a small crack)... I was feeling good, so I decided to try and retrofit my extra passenger seat to the drivers side.

My interior is in about 9/10 condition, outside of the drivers seat.. Which is typical with most cars, since every mile driven theres someone in the drivers seat... at least i'd hope so..  I read somewhere that the drivers and passenger seat could be interchanged with some work, so I figured I had an afternoon to burn so what the heck!

We all know the seat comes out of the car with 4- 14mm bolts, and I pull my seats out every so often to clean under them to find old french fries, and usually i find about $5..

BEFORE removing the seat from the car, make sure that the front and rear mechanisms are all the way up... This will make your life much easier!!!

Seat out of the car... Not in good shape, but not horrible.  I've definitely seen worse...





Unfortunately, this time I only found 4 cents ($0.04), so it was not as big of a pay day as it was usually..



The new seat pads, clearly they are in much better shape..



So the first step in doing this you must remove the seat back.. There are 4 bolts holding it onto the seat bottom (2 on each side).. Pictured is one side, the 2 motors you see are the front and rear lifting motors.



Heres a picture of the seat back separated from the seat bottom



Next step is to remove the seat bottom from the seat rail... Pictured is the new seat to more closely show the 4 bolts that hold the cushion onto the sliding rail... 2 bolts horizontal on the front, 2 vertical on the rear..



Sorry the focus is off on this, but here you can see the seat rails and cushion seperated



Since the 94s have the LAN system, in order for things to play nicely together, the electronics and wiring must be swapped from the passenger seat to the drivers seat... This is the drivers seat with its electronics removed



The electronics do not bolt up perfect to the passenger side seat frame, but i was able to line up 2 screw holes, which I figure is enough to hold the seat controller in place... This picture shows the seat controller with seat frame on the new seat cushion. I plugged in as many electrical harnesses as I could to get a good idea how it needed to be oriented. Once I did, I moved the seat controller around a bit until I got it screwed in place securely.



Next, the brackets that hold the seat back to the seat bottom are not compatible from drivers side to passenger side. So, in order to take a passenger side seat back and adapt it to a drivers side seat bottom, you must remove the brackets.. The brackets are held in place with 2 bolts, however you must remove the bottom 2 hogrings on each side to access the bolts. Here is a picture of the bolts holding the brackets onto the seat back.



The seat brackets will only go onto the seat one way, so you really cant get it backwards, and they go right onto the passenger side seat.. What you are actually removing is the brackets, as well as the tilt mechanism, which consists of a motor and a rod that goes across to the other side which makes each side move equally.



After the brackets are swapped, the seat bottom will bolt directly to the seat back.. here is a pic of them assembled.



If you are like me, and did NOT set both cushion lifting mechanisms all the way up or down, you must remove the motor, manually push the mechanism, install the seat into the car and with the motor unbolted from the seat frame, move it all the way down, then reinstall it on the seat



All of the electrical harnesses work 100% fine, as you're using 99% of the electronics and wiring from the drivers side seat anyway.. So everything plugs and goes, the only thing that I came across that did not work directly was the power head rests. Since the drivers seat has memory seats, and the passenger side does not, the head rest has a position sensor on the same harness.. The difference is simply 2 pins



I was really concerned I would lose my power headrests, since I use those on a daily basis, so I was determined to make this work properly.. A quick look at the wiring diagram shows that the drivers side and passenger side share the exact same wire colors, all you have to do is switch the connectors.. Since your going from a passenger side headrest to a drivers side seat controller, I took the drivers side harness and switched the 7 pin connector to the 5 pin connector.. That is, I took the large (seat side connector), not the smaller controller side connector..


This part is a bit tricky, but it can be done.. There is a yellow retainer that you simply pry off gently.. Then, use a tiny screwdriver to press up on a little plastic clip.. The pins will come right out of the connector...



From here, all you have to do is plug the connector back into the headrest harness on the seat, and match the colors up.. The pins will click right into place, and you then put the retainer back in. You will have 2 extra wires for the sensor, and I just left those hanging around..



So now, the job is complete and you just bolt the seat back into the car... The end result is I have a nice looking seat, and no one would know that it came from the other side of the car unless they were REALLY smart...





All in all, I'm super happy with how everything came out... There are only 2 features I lost by doing this, and that is the memory seats and the lumbar support, which honestly I don't think it did anything when I had it, so I don't miss it at all.  The memory seats stopped working for no reason after the 5 speed swap, and I am the only person who drives the car so its not a big deal...
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"

About 4 years ago, another NICO member gave me a seat from a 94 Q, only thing is it was a passenger seat. It did not include any of the frame brackets, just essentially the seat pads. It was in pretty good shape, so I threw it up in the attic.. Since I had some […]

Replacing Infiniti J30 Knock sensors

December 10, 2009 by admin

"j30-knock-sensors"

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                    [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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                    [post_content] => J30 Knock Sensors
By: Wes Stinson

A common problem that has plagued many Nissan and Infiniti vehicles is problem with the knock sensors (also called KS).

Bad KS will not throw a CEL (Check Engine Light). Symptoms include loss or poor acceleration and can also cause bucking/jerking problems. Generally, knock sensors do not cause the vehicle to stall or idle rough, if you are experiencing that it is most likely something different.

To check and see if you have bad knock sensors, you must remove your ECU and check the trouble codes. This is the easiest way to diagnose, because if your knock sensors are even questionable it will throw a code in the ECU. It is outlined in the article below how to check ECU codes. Knock sensor code is #34. Of course, if you do not feel comfortable doing this you can take your vehicle to any Nissan or Infiniti dealership or specialty shop and they can scan the codes.

If you have a post 96 J30 you can take it to any shop that has a code scanner (most shops have these) and they can determine if it is the knock sensors. Autozone also scans diagnostic codes for free.

https://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=60332

If you find out you have bad knock sensors, you must remove the intake manifold to replace them. J30’s have one (1) knock sensor. It is generally recommended that you replace its harness as well, as the connectors and wires become brittle over time.

The good news is that all knock sensors on basically every Nissan and Infiniti vehicle uses the same knock sensor, part number 22060-300P0. Many times you can go to eBay and type in “Nissan knock” and get them from $60-$90. Dealership prices are usually about $120-$150 per knock sensor.
                    [post_title] => Replacing Infiniti J30 Knock sensors
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            [post_content] => J30 Knock Sensors
By: Wes Stinson

A common problem that has plagued many Nissan and Infiniti vehicles is problem with the knock sensors (also called KS).

Bad KS will not throw a CEL (Check Engine Light). Symptoms include loss or poor acceleration and can also cause bucking/jerking problems. Generally, knock sensors do not cause the vehicle to stall or idle rough, if you are experiencing that it is most likely something different.

To check and see if you have bad knock sensors, you must remove your ECU and check the trouble codes. This is the easiest way to diagnose, because if your knock sensors are even questionable it will throw a code in the ECU. It is outlined in the article below how to check ECU codes. Knock sensor code is #34. Of course, if you do not feel comfortable doing this you can take your vehicle to any Nissan or Infiniti dealership or specialty shop and they can scan the codes.

If you have a post 96 J30 you can take it to any shop that has a code scanner (most shops have these) and they can determine if it is the knock sensors. Autozone also scans diagnostic codes for free.

https://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=60332

If you find out you have bad knock sensors, you must remove the intake manifold to replace them. J30’s have one (1) knock sensor. It is generally recommended that you replace its harness as well, as the connectors and wires become brittle over time.

The good news is that all knock sensors on basically every Nissan and Infiniti vehicle uses the same knock sensor, part number 22060-300P0. Many times you can go to eBay and type in “Nissan knock” and get them from $60-$90. Dealership prices are usually about $120-$150 per knock sensor.
            [post_title] => Replacing Infiniti J30 Knock sensors
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J30 Knock Sensors By: Wes Stinson A common problem that has plagued many Nissan and Infiniti vehicles is problem with the knock sensors (also called KS). Bad KS will not throw a CEL (Check Engine Light). Symptoms include loss or poor acceleration and can also cause bucking/jerking problems. Generally, knock sensors do not cause the […]

Windshield Repair FAQ

December 10, 2009 by admin

"windshield-repair-faq"

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                    [post_content] => Everything You Wanted To Know About Windshields - By StarPD

First, windshield repair will NOT keep a windshield from cracking. It is a cosmetic repair only, and is a colossal waste of money.

Second, never try to replace a windshield yourself. That requires extensive knowledge and skill. I recall one individual who wanted to pull a windshield from a wrecked car in a junkyard and install it himself in his car. Bad idea, and terribly false economy, which probably wouldn't work anyway, and would likely result in the replacement glass cracking eventually and/or leaks.

Many states have what is known as "full glass coverage" either with a deductible or NO deductible. You must have comprehensive and collision coverage (also known as "full coverage") and surprisingly, it's relatively inexpensive. Be sure to discuss with your agent exactly what coverage you can get, what it will cost, and what the terms are.

If you do get your windshield replaced, NEVER, EVER use those represented by hawkers at car washes, gas stations, or in TV commercials, especially the ones that offer free diamonds, steaks, dinners, or other come-ons. They almost always use aftermarket glass, which frequently is of poor optical quality, and frequently doesn't fit properly. These companies pay beginning techs $7 to $9 per hour, and require them to do 10 jobs per day, including travel time.

See, aftermarket glass manufacturers re-use the dies that are used to cut the windshield too many times. Each cut removes some of the die. When worn, the glass ends up being cut too small, and results in cracking and/or leaks. OEM glass requires that the dies be used only a limited number of times, and is carefully checked for optical distortion. That's why OEM glass costs more than aftermaket glass. Sometimes that distortion is not apparent, but can result in eye strain and even headaches.

Don't use the 800 numbers insurance companies use to get your windshield replaced either. They usually use substandard glass companies that employ amateur techs and aftermarket glass. Instead, use your insurance AGENT to personally recommend a local glass company that he works with and that he knows uses OEM glass, and has qualified techs.

If you can't get a referral from your agent, check with your local dealer. They will usually have access to someone who only uses OEM glass.

Here's some insight on the glass companies who use come-ons. Reputable local glass companies cannot afford to wait 9 to 12 months to get their money. If they bill the insurance company direct, which by law, they can, they must wait for their money. So they bill through what is known as a glass network, of which each insurance company has one they use. These networks get the money to the glass companies quickly and without undue delay, but they set the heavily discounted price. They leave enough for the glass company to profit, but not overcharge them or make excessive profits. The come-on glass outfits charge the insurance companies full list and inflated labor charges though, and since they make so much money, they can afford to wait to get their bucks. It's not to the benefit of customers though.

Reputable glass companies work through insurance agents, almost always use OEM glass and have highly qualified technicians.  We and our good competitors use OEM glass and pay our techs a lot more (because we have to in order to get good ones), and require a minimum of 6 jobs per day, with a maximum of 8. As an example, some newer technicians with reputable glass installers make $26 per hour. That's what it takes to get the good techs. Since we work through agents, we absolutely MUST have top technicians.

Do NOT shop by yourself for windshield replacement based on price. You WILL get what you pay for. Instead, once again, rely on your insurance agent to send you to 2 or 3 to compare prices from.

If you do experience a cracked windshield, you could get a citation for it, as this is illegal in many States. Call your insurance agent, and even if you don't have full glass coverage, ask him to recommend a GOOD local glass company that uses OEM glass and has experienced technicians. ALL of the good ones will come to your home or business to do the job, so you won't have to worry about getting the car to them and leaving it all day, depending on someone else for transportation to and from their shop. Don't worry about downtime. The company you choose will call you and schedule your job at a convenient time for you, either at your home or work/school. You WILL have to be available to verify the work though, so be sure to take that into account when you set the appointment.

Another note. Sometimes they get hung up on a job, so times are approximate, not "hard" appointments. Do be sure to quickly go over the car while the tech is there so that if any collateral damage occurs, there's no argument as to how it happened or who did it. Sometimes the repair process does create minor damage to headliners or other associated areas. The glass company is responsible for taking care of any damage, and will usually do so without quarrel. I know that on the rare occasion we encounter that, we step up to the plate without argument or hassle. Any reputable glass company that your agent recommends will do the same. Don't worry though. While it happens occasionally, it's not common, and you shouldn't have any problem. Just protect yourself up front, and remember, the installer is working for you and your continued business.
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            [post_content] => Everything You Wanted To Know About Windshields - By StarPD

First, windshield repair will NOT keep a windshield from cracking. It is a cosmetic repair only, and is a colossal waste of money.

Second, never try to replace a windshield yourself. That requires extensive knowledge and skill. I recall one individual who wanted to pull a windshield from a wrecked car in a junkyard and install it himself in his car. Bad idea, and terribly false economy, which probably wouldn't work anyway, and would likely result in the replacement glass cracking eventually and/or leaks.

Many states have what is known as "full glass coverage" either with a deductible or NO deductible. You must have comprehensive and collision coverage (also known as "full coverage") and surprisingly, it's relatively inexpensive. Be sure to discuss with your agent exactly what coverage you can get, what it will cost, and what the terms are.

If you do get your windshield replaced, NEVER, EVER use those represented by hawkers at car washes, gas stations, or in TV commercials, especially the ones that offer free diamonds, steaks, dinners, or other come-ons. They almost always use aftermarket glass, which frequently is of poor optical quality, and frequently doesn't fit properly. These companies pay beginning techs $7 to $9 per hour, and require them to do 10 jobs per day, including travel time.

See, aftermarket glass manufacturers re-use the dies that are used to cut the windshield too many times. Each cut removes some of the die. When worn, the glass ends up being cut too small, and results in cracking and/or leaks. OEM glass requires that the dies be used only a limited number of times, and is carefully checked for optical distortion. That's why OEM glass costs more than aftermaket glass. Sometimes that distortion is not apparent, but can result in eye strain and even headaches.

Don't use the 800 numbers insurance companies use to get your windshield replaced either. They usually use substandard glass companies that employ amateur techs and aftermarket glass. Instead, use your insurance AGENT to personally recommend a local glass company that he works with and that he knows uses OEM glass, and has qualified techs.

If you can't get a referral from your agent, check with your local dealer. They will usually have access to someone who only uses OEM glass.

Here's some insight on the glass companies who use come-ons. Reputable local glass companies cannot afford to wait 9 to 12 months to get their money. If they bill the insurance company direct, which by law, they can, they must wait for their money. So they bill through what is known as a glass network, of which each insurance company has one they use. These networks get the money to the glass companies quickly and without undue delay, but they set the heavily discounted price. They leave enough for the glass company to profit, but not overcharge them or make excessive profits. The come-on glass outfits charge the insurance companies full list and inflated labor charges though, and since they make so much money, they can afford to wait to get their bucks. It's not to the benefit of customers though.

Reputable glass companies work through insurance agents, almost always use OEM glass and have highly qualified technicians.  We and our good competitors use OEM glass and pay our techs a lot more (because we have to in order to get good ones), and require a minimum of 6 jobs per day, with a maximum of 8. As an example, some newer technicians with reputable glass installers make $26 per hour. That's what it takes to get the good techs. Since we work through agents, we absolutely MUST have top technicians.

Do NOT shop by yourself for windshield replacement based on price. You WILL get what you pay for. Instead, once again, rely on your insurance agent to send you to 2 or 3 to compare prices from.

If you do experience a cracked windshield, you could get a citation for it, as this is illegal in many States. Call your insurance agent, and even if you don't have full glass coverage, ask him to recommend a GOOD local glass company that uses OEM glass and has experienced technicians. ALL of the good ones will come to your home or business to do the job, so you won't have to worry about getting the car to them and leaving it all day, depending on someone else for transportation to and from their shop. Don't worry about downtime. The company you choose will call you and schedule your job at a convenient time for you, either at your home or work/school. You WILL have to be available to verify the work though, so be sure to take that into account when you set the appointment.

Another note. Sometimes they get hung up on a job, so times are approximate, not "hard" appointments. Do be sure to quickly go over the car while the tech is there so that if any collateral damage occurs, there's no argument as to how it happened or who did it. Sometimes the repair process does create minor damage to headliners or other associated areas. The glass company is responsible for taking care of any damage, and will usually do so without quarrel. I know that on the rare occasion we encounter that, we step up to the plate without argument or hassle. Any reputable glass company that your agent recommends will do the same. Don't worry though. While it happens occasionally, it's not common, and you shouldn't have any problem. Just protect yourself up front, and remember, the installer is working for you and your continued business.
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Everything You Wanted To Know About Windshields – By StarPD First, windshield repair will NOT keep a windshield from cracking. It is a cosmetic repair only, and is a colossal waste of money. Second, never try to replace a windshield yourself. That requires extensive knowledge and skill. I recall one individual who wanted to pull […]

240SX How To: Removing/Replacing your PS pump

December 10, 2009 by Aaron

"sx-how-to-removingreplacing-your-ps-pump"

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                    [post_content] =>   


1991-1994 Nissan 240sx




$120 (New)




2-4 Hours



NICOclub Rating System



babowc



Tools:
- Socket wrench
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 15/16 or 26(??mm wrench
- Socket extensions and adapters.. long the better!
- Rubber mallet/hammer (i didn't have a rubber mallet)
- Screwdriver (positive +)
- Low-profile bucket to put under the car, in case of spills (oil pans?)

Materials:

- 1 or 2 bottles of ATF fluid, Mercon Dexron III.
- Power steering pump, lines



Procedure:

*place the pan underneat the driver's side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm's (ps fluid's) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)



2) Un-do the bottom hose using a + screwdriver and point the rubber hose upwards so the PS fluid (ATF fluid) doesn't spill everywhere.

*point both fittings upwards so they don't leak ps fluid everywhere!*





3) Using the 14mm socket, start unbolting the belt tensioner for the PS pump and water pump. un-do the 14mm bolt until the belt is able to be taken off.



4) Start taking off the bottom tensioner-holder thing. (careful, there is a washer in-between the pump, don't lose it.)

*after you take it all off, it should look like this*



5) Rotate the PS pump pulley until you have access to the main bolt holding the pump to the bracket.

6) Using 14mm socket, unbolt the main bolt holding the ps pump up.



7) Pull on the pump and it should slide right out!



That is all for removing the PS pump, pat yourself on the back!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

***To Replace the PS pump***

1) Check to see if your pump is for the correct application!!! I cannot stress this enough, because I burst my PS high pressure hose (thus the ss braided lines) because I used a S14 pump which creates about 1300 psi, compared to the 1100 psi that the S13 PS pump creates!!!


*Left pump is the S13 PS pump, the two bolts should have a bracket on it, but i took mine off*
*only differences are that the S13 PS pump has the brackets and 2 Bolts holding it, but the S14 PS pump does not*

2) Locate where the PS pump was held on to the bracket. You will see a washer-type thing that pushes the pump against the bracket as the main bolt is being screwed in.

Use the hammer and tap it back out, hitting the inside to make it closer to the bracket.





3) Take the steps backwards from removing the PS pump.

4) When installing the belt tensioner, don't forget to put the washer in-between the tensioner assembly.



5) Re-connect the rubber hose from the PS reservoir first, then re-connect the 15/16 bolt onto the PS pump. I only tightened it with a hammer, but this is not recommended!

find yourself a Torque Wrench and tighten to correct ft/lbs ~65ft/lbs



*HAND TIGHTEN FIRST!!! MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CROSS-THREAD as it is VERY easy to do so.*

6) Replace the belt connecting to the water pump, PS pump, and the crank pulley and tighten the bottom part of the tensioner first and start tightening the long bolt for the tensioner.

Tighten until the belt is firm. *you can check the tightness by pushing down on the belt moderately hard and give it movement about .5 in up and down.

Reinstall everything else and take your car out for a test drive.
Try to go from lock to lock to check for any leaks.


                    [post_title] => 240SX How To: Removing/Replacing your PS pump
                    [post_excerpt] => *place the pan underneat the driver's side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm's (ps fluid's) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)
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            [post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43
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            [post_content] =>   


1991-1994 Nissan 240sx




$120 (New)




2-4 Hours



NICOclub Rating System



babowc



Tools:
- Socket wrench
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 15/16 or 26(??mm wrench
- Socket extensions and adapters.. long the better!
- Rubber mallet/hammer (i didn't have a rubber mallet)
- Screwdriver (positive +)
- Low-profile bucket to put under the car, in case of spills (oil pans?)

Materials:

- 1 or 2 bottles of ATF fluid, Mercon Dexron III.
- Power steering pump, lines



Procedure:

*place the pan underneat the driver's side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm's (ps fluid's) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)



2) Un-do the bottom hose using a + screwdriver and point the rubber hose upwards so the PS fluid (ATF fluid) doesn't spill everywhere.

*point both fittings upwards so they don't leak ps fluid everywhere!*





3) Using the 14mm socket, start unbolting the belt tensioner for the PS pump and water pump. un-do the 14mm bolt until the belt is able to be taken off.



4) Start taking off the bottom tensioner-holder thing. (careful, there is a washer in-between the pump, don't lose it.)

*after you take it all off, it should look like this*



5) Rotate the PS pump pulley until you have access to the main bolt holding the pump to the bracket.

6) Using 14mm socket, unbolt the main bolt holding the ps pump up.



7) Pull on the pump and it should slide right out!



That is all for removing the PS pump, pat yourself on the back!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

***To Replace the PS pump***

1) Check to see if your pump is for the correct application!!! I cannot stress this enough, because I burst my PS high pressure hose (thus the ss braided lines) because I used a S14 pump which creates about 1300 psi, compared to the 1100 psi that the S13 PS pump creates!!!


*Left pump is the S13 PS pump, the two bolts should have a bracket on it, but i took mine off*
*only differences are that the S13 PS pump has the brackets and 2 Bolts holding it, but the S14 PS pump does not*

2) Locate where the PS pump was held on to the bracket. You will see a washer-type thing that pushes the pump against the bracket as the main bolt is being screwed in.

Use the hammer and tap it back out, hitting the inside to make it closer to the bracket.





3) Take the steps backwards from removing the PS pump.

4) When installing the belt tensioner, don't forget to put the washer in-between the tensioner assembly.



5) Re-connect the rubber hose from the PS reservoir first, then re-connect the 15/16 bolt onto the PS pump. I only tightened it with a hammer, but this is not recommended!

find yourself a Torque Wrench and tighten to correct ft/lbs ~65ft/lbs



*HAND TIGHTEN FIRST!!! MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CROSS-THREAD as it is VERY easy to do so.*

6) Replace the belt connecting to the water pump, PS pump, and the crank pulley and tighten the bottom part of the tensioner first and start tightening the long bolt for the tensioner.

Tighten until the belt is firm. *you can check the tightness by pushing down on the belt moderately hard and give it movement about .5 in up and down.

Reinstall everything else and take your car out for a test drive.
Try to go from lock to lock to check for any leaks.


            [post_title] => 240SX How To: Removing/Replacing your PS pump
            [post_excerpt] => *place the pan underneat the driver's side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm's (ps fluid's) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)
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"

*place the pan underneat the driver’s side wheel/where the PS pump sits.*

***remove intake assembly, undo all spark plug wires, and remove all harness out of harm’s (ps fluid’s) way.
Removing the emissions box, oil dipstick and the ex. mani heat shield gives you A LOT more room to work with!***

1) Using the 15/16 or 26mm wrench, unbolt the main nut connected to the PS pump.
*unless you are re-doing the PS High Pressure Hose, like I did, no need to unbolt it at the banjo fitting. I used a home-made straight stainless-steel-braided line from the pump back to the hardline leading to the PS Rack.)

Edub1’s SOHC guide to replacing valve seals

December 10, 2009 by Aaron

"edub1s-sohc-guide-to-replacing-valve-seals"

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                    [post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43
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                    [post_content] =>   


1989-1990 Nissan 240sx




$1.50 per seal




4-8 hours



NICOclub Rating System



Edub1



Tools:
- Air compressor - 120psi
- Air hold tool – Murray’s
- Universal spring compressor
- Pointer style retrieval magnet (must have)

Procedure:

1)Position car on clean hard surface – IMPORTANT

2)Remove valve cover

3)Remove rocker arm assemblies leaving cam in place

4)Remove spark plug and screw in air hold tool

Removing the rocker assemblies will close all the valves so there is no need to rotate motor.Compress cylinder to 140PSI as per FSM.120PSI worked fine for me.

5)Compress valve until you have enough room to extract the valvelock shims from the top; pushing down and wiggling helps.Use your magnet to extract the shims.

6)Pull of old seal with a Channel Lock.

7)Put on new ones.Intake seals can be seated with the help of a deep well socket and light tapping.

8)Replace spring and valve lock shims.You will drop the shims several times.If you are on a clean hard surface use your magnet to retrieve them.If you are not on a clean hard surface you will never find them in a million years.Release spring compressor.

9)Install rocker assembly.Tighten from center outward.Torque to 27 - 30 ft lb or 37 - 41 NM

10)Replace valve cover - you are done.

IMPORTANT: Resist the temptation to observe the rocker arms by starting motor with valve cover off.Massive amounts of oil will spray everywhere.
                    [post_title] => Edub1's SOHC guide to replacing valve seals
                    [post_excerpt] => 1)Position car on clean hard surface – IMPORTANT

2)Remove valve cover

3)Remove rocker arm assemblies leaving cam in place...
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            [post_content] =>   


1989-1990 Nissan 240sx




$1.50 per seal




4-8 hours



NICOclub Rating System



Edub1



Tools:
- Air compressor - 120psi
- Air hold tool – Murray’s
- Universal spring compressor
- Pointer style retrieval magnet (must have)

Procedure:

1)Position car on clean hard surface – IMPORTANT

2)Remove valve cover

3)Remove rocker arm assemblies leaving cam in place

4)Remove spark plug and screw in air hold tool

Removing the rocker assemblies will close all the valves so there is no need to rotate motor.Compress cylinder to 140PSI as per FSM.120PSI worked fine for me.

5)Compress valve until you have enough room to extract the valvelock shims from the top; pushing down and wiggling helps.Use your magnet to extract the shims.

6)Pull of old seal with a Channel Lock.

7)Put on new ones.Intake seals can be seated with the help of a deep well socket and light tapping.

8)Replace spring and valve lock shims.You will drop the shims several times.If you are on a clean hard surface use your magnet to retrieve them.If you are not on a clean hard surface you will never find them in a million years.Release spring compressor.

9)Install rocker assembly.Tighten from center outward.Torque to 27 - 30 ft lb or 37 - 41 NM

10)Replace valve cover - you are done.

IMPORTANT: Resist the temptation to observe the rocker arms by starting motor with valve cover off.Massive amounts of oil will spray everywhere.
            [post_title] => Edub1's SOHC guide to replacing valve seals
            [post_excerpt] => 1)Position car on clean hard surface – IMPORTANT

2)Remove valve cover

3)Remove rocker arm assemblies leaving cam in place...
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1)Position car on clean hard surface – IMPORTANT

2)Remove valve cover

3)Remove rocker arm assemblies leaving cam in place…