vq35de - NICOclub

Painting VQ35DE Valve Covers

December 31, 2009 by Greg

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Applied Vehicle(s): Vehicles w/ VQ35DE Engine
Difficulty Rating: 


Estimated Labor Time:  2½ hours
Written By: tollboothwilley


Estimated Total Cost: $20.00




Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   




So I have a (almost) new set of valve covers that I'm installing due to the leaking oil in cylinders #3 and #6.  Along with the covers I have a set of new ignition coils I'm installing.  However, before I do the install I thought that this would be a good chance to dress up the engine bay a little.

What better time to paint the valve covers right?

I decided that I was going to paint the covers blue because my catch can, jwt pop charger, and stillen engine damper were all blue and in the engine bay already.

Here's a pic with all the necessary goodies for accomplishing the job.


I used the simple green to clean the valve covers first.  Spray and let stand for 5 min or so.  I sprayed both sides of the covers.  After that, wash off the VC's.  Repeat process but this time use a tooth brush to agitate and clean any tougher areas.  Follow with a thorough rinse.  Let air dry for a few minutes then use a cloth (microfiber is best) to dry and prep the side we are going to paint.

This is what mine looked like after I dried them off.


At this point if you have a lot of irregularities you can sand/wetsand the VC's down.  I was fine with the current condition of mine, otherwise I would have used 320/400 grit.

Next Step is to finish preparing the VC's for the adhesive promoter (primer) and paint.  Tape up all areas.   You can also tape any designs if you feel so inclined.  Here's what mine looked like.  In the pic you'll see I missed one spot on the right side VC.  I taped that up later.


Spray 3 coats of the adhesive promoter on, allow 2-3 min between coats.  This dries fairly fast.  Be sure to get hard to reach areas as well.  The adhesive promoter I used was clear so no need for a picture.

Start painting within 10 min of the last coat of primer.  Here is mine after 2 coats of the paint I chose. (I chose this paint because it will withstand 500* temperatures)

I applied 3 coats of paint to my VC's.  Here is what they look like.  I brought them inside to dry.  It still gets cold in the garage overnight right now.  This will ensure that the paint is ready for the clear coat (It needs 3 good drying hours).


Clear Coat.  Sprayed 3 layers of it.  Inside where its warmer to finish drying completely before install.


Removed all the taped areas.  Finished look, ready for install.

INSTALL

To start with...


Remove upper and lower plenums

Heres the stock valve covers


Removed the drivers side, now you can see what's inside!


Before installing, you need to use RTV here.


Drivers side in, side by side comparison.


Both installed now.


With plenum back on.


NOTE:  This is not my final product.  I have plans with the Plenum.  Should be polished up and on soon.
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Applied Vehicle(s): Vehicles w/ VQ35DE Engine
Difficulty Rating: 


Estimated Labor Time:  2½ hours
Written By: tollboothwilley


Estimated Total Cost: $20.00




Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   




So I have a (almost) new set of valve covers that I'm installing due to the leaking oil in cylinders #3 and #6.  Along with the covers I have a set of new ignition coils I'm installing.  However, before I do the install I thought that this would be a good chance to dress up the engine bay a little.

What better time to paint the valve covers right?

I decided that I was going to paint the covers blue because my catch can, jwt pop charger, and stillen engine damper were all blue and in the engine bay already.

Here's a pic with all the necessary goodies for accomplishing the job.


I used the simple green to clean the valve covers first.  Spray and let stand for 5 min or so.  I sprayed both sides of the covers.  After that, wash off the VC's.  Repeat process but this time use a tooth brush to agitate and clean any tougher areas.  Follow with a thorough rinse.  Let air dry for a few minutes then use a cloth (microfiber is best) to dry and prep the side we are going to paint.

This is what mine looked like after I dried them off.


At this point if you have a lot of irregularities you can sand/wetsand the VC's down.  I was fine with the current condition of mine, otherwise I would have used 320/400 grit.

Next Step is to finish preparing the VC's for the adhesive promoter (primer) and paint.  Tape up all areas.   You can also tape any designs if you feel so inclined.  Here's what mine looked like.  In the pic you'll see I missed one spot on the right side VC.  I taped that up later.


Spray 3 coats of the adhesive promoter on, allow 2-3 min between coats.  This dries fairly fast.  Be sure to get hard to reach areas as well.  The adhesive promoter I used was clear so no need for a picture.

Start painting within 10 min of the last coat of primer.  Here is mine after 2 coats of the paint I chose. (I chose this paint because it will withstand 500* temperatures)

I applied 3 coats of paint to my VC's.  Here is what they look like.  I brought them inside to dry.  It still gets cold in the garage overnight right now.  This will ensure that the paint is ready for the clear coat (It needs 3 good drying hours).


Clear Coat.  Sprayed 3 layers of it.  Inside where its warmer to finish drying completely before install.


Removed all the taped areas.  Finished look, ready for install.

INSTALL

To start with...


Remove upper and lower plenums

Heres the stock valve covers


Removed the drivers side, now you can see what's inside!


Before installing, you need to use RTV here.


Drivers side in, side by side comparison.


Both installed now.


With plenum back on.


NOTE:  This is not my final product.  I have plans with the Plenum.  Should be polished up and on soon.
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Applied Vehicle(s): Vehicles w/ VQ35DE Engine Difficulty Rating: Estimated Labor Time: 2½ hours Written By: tollboothwilley Estimated Total Cost: $20.00 Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub’s Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums So I have a (almost) new set of valve covers that I’m installing due to the leaking oil in cylinders […]

Change Spark Plugs – VQ35DE

December 31, 2009 by Greg

"change-spark-plugs-vq35de"

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                    [post_content] => For anyone who interested in changing their spark plugs on their own but not feeling very comfortable, this should help.  I have a 2007 M35x so, at the least, this would be the same for the 2006 M35. I haven't seen the V8 or the 08/09 car so I can't say if this process is any different. This should give you the general idea though.

Task: Change The Spark Plugs
 Time: Took me 2 hrs 
 Tools/Supplies Needed:

 	Socket wrench
 	14mm deep socket for the spark plugs (I'm not exactly sure of this size because I forgot to make note of it - I'm pretty sure it's 14mm)
 	10mm socket + varying length extensions for all the bolts/nuts you have to take off
 	6 spark plugs of your choice (I used 6 NGK V-Power copper plugs). Nissan motors work best on NGK plugs.
 	Spark plug gapping tool. Napa sells them for like a dollar. The plugs should be pre-gapped to .044" but I like to double check.
 	Flat head screw driver
 	An extendable magnet (this helps greatly in getting some of the bolts out without dropping them below the motor)

Process:

1. Open the hood and remove the plastic covers to give yourself some space. The engine cover is held on by 4 10mm bolts/nuts. The other two just pop off with clips.



2. Disconnect part of the air intake that goes into the throttle body and move it to the side (I wire tied it to a hole near the fender).



Should look like this when you're done with the first two steps:



3. Loosen the engine harness by taking off the following two 10mm bolts. This will give it some slack so you can pull the coil packs out.



4. Disconnect the PCV Hose to again offer a little more space to get the coil packs out.



5. Unscrew this bracket (not sure what sensor this is) to allow you to remove the middle coil pack on the passenger side of the car.



6. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding this sensor/bracket on the driver side part of the engine:



7. Now what you're left with is 6 coil packs and spark plugs. Each coil pack has 1 10mm bolt holding it to the block. I only have a picture of two of them, but you should be able to figure this part out. Be careful unclipping the harnesses.



8. Once you remove the coil packs, you should be left with just the plug.



9. I believe the spark plug is 14mm deep socket, but I forgot to note this so I'm not exactly sure. Be careful unscrewing/screwing it in and the rest is reverse of removal.
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            [post_content] => For anyone who interested in changing their spark plugs on their own but not feeling very comfortable, this should help.  I have a 2007 M35x so, at the least, this would be the same for the 2006 M35. I haven't seen the V8 or the 08/09 car so I can't say if this process is any different. This should give you the general idea though.

Task: Change The Spark Plugs
 Time: Took me 2 hrs 
 Tools/Supplies Needed:

 	Socket wrench
 	14mm deep socket for the spark plugs (I'm not exactly sure of this size because I forgot to make note of it - I'm pretty sure it's 14mm)
 	10mm socket + varying length extensions for all the bolts/nuts you have to take off
 	6 spark plugs of your choice (I used 6 NGK V-Power copper plugs). Nissan motors work best on NGK plugs.
 	Spark plug gapping tool. Napa sells them for like a dollar. The plugs should be pre-gapped to .044" but I like to double check.
 	Flat head screw driver
 	An extendable magnet (this helps greatly in getting some of the bolts out without dropping them below the motor)

Process:

1. Open the hood and remove the plastic covers to give yourself some space. The engine cover is held on by 4 10mm bolts/nuts. The other two just pop off with clips.



2. Disconnect part of the air intake that goes into the throttle body and move it to the side (I wire tied it to a hole near the fender).



Should look like this when you're done with the first two steps:



3. Loosen the engine harness by taking off the following two 10mm bolts. This will give it some slack so you can pull the coil packs out.



4. Disconnect the PCV Hose to again offer a little more space to get the coil packs out.



5. Unscrew this bracket (not sure what sensor this is) to allow you to remove the middle coil pack on the passenger side of the car.



6. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding this sensor/bracket on the driver side part of the engine:



7. Now what you're left with is 6 coil packs and spark plugs. Each coil pack has 1 10mm bolt holding it to the block. I only have a picture of two of them, but you should be able to figure this part out. Be careful unclipping the harnesses.



8. Once you remove the coil packs, you should be left with just the plug.



9. I believe the spark plug is 14mm deep socket, but I forgot to note this so I'm not exactly sure. Be careful unscrewing/screwing it in and the rest is reverse of removal.
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For anyone who interested in changing their spark plugs on their own but not feeling very comfortable, this should help. I have a 2007 M35x so, at the least, this would be the same for the 2006 M35. I haven’t seen the V8 or the 08/09 car so I can’t say if this process is […]

350Z Diagnostic ECU Codes and How to Clear Them

December 10, 2009 by admin

"z-ecu-codes"

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                    [post_content] => Clearing Codes on the G35 and 350Z
There are several ways to clear ECU error codes.

- Scan Tool
If using a scan tool, follow tool manufacturer’s instructions to clear Codes.

- Manual Method
Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" Light.

Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds:
Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
Fully release the accelerator pedal.
Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
Wait about 10 seconds.
Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

- With Consult

Turn ignition Off.
Connect Consult’the data link connector (DLC), located behind fuse box cover.
Turn ignition On.
Touch Start.
Touch Engine.
Perform each diagnostic test mode according to each service procedure.

- Without Consult
Turn ignition On.
Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECU fully clockwise and wait until inspection lamps flash. #Number of flashes displayed indicates corresponding mode.
Note number of flashes, then immediately turn diagnostic mode selector fully counterclockwise.
If ignition is turned Off during diagnosis, in each mode, and then turned back on again after power to the ECU has dropped off completely, diagnosis will automatically return to Mode I.
For description of modes, proceed as follows:

(Mode I): with engine stopped, system in bulb check state. with engine running, system in malfunction warning state.

(Mode II): with engine stopped, system in self diagnostic results state. with engine running, system in front O2S monitor state.

- Codes
P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated
P0011 Intake Valve Timing Control
P0021 Intake Valve Timing Control
P0031 O2 Sensor Heather
P0032 O2 Sensor Heather
P0037 O2 Sensor Heather
P0038 O2 Sensor Heather
P0043 O2 Sensor Heather
P0044 O2 Sensor Heather
P0051 O2 Sensor Heather
P0052 O2 Sensor Heather
P0057 O2 Sensor Heather
P0058 O2 Sensor Heather
P0100 MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor
P0101 MAF Sensor
P0102 MAF Sensor
P0103 MAF Sensor
P0105 Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0107 Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0108 Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0110 IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Sensor
P0112 IAT Sensor
P0113 IAT Sensor
P0115 ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor
P0117 ECT Sensor
P0118 ECT Sensor
P0120 TP (Throttle Position) Sensor
P0121 TP Sensor
P0122 TP Sensor
P0123 TP Sensor
P0125 ECT Sensor
P0127 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
P0128 Thermostat Function
P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1
P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring
P0132 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Rich Shift Monitoring
P0133 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Response Monitoring
P0134 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 High Voltage
P0135 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 1
P0136 Rear O2S, Bank 1
P0137 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Minimum Voltage Monitoring
P0138 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring
P0139 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Response Monitoring
P0140 Rear O2S, Bank 1 High Voltage
P0141 Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1
P0144 O2 Sensor Heather
P0150 Closed Loop, Bank 2 Or Front O2S, Bank 2
P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring
P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring
P0153 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Response Monitoring
P0154 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 High Voltage
P0155 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 2
P0156 Rear H02S Sensor, LH Bank
P0157 Rear O2S, Bank 2
P0158 Rear O2S, Bank 2
P0159 Rear O2S, Bank 2
P0160 Rear O2S, Bank 2
P0161 Rear H02S Heater, LH Bank Or Bank 2
P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1
P0172 Fuel System Rich, Bank 1
P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2
P0175 Fuel System Rich, Bank 2
P0180 Tank Fuel Temp Sensor
P0182 Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor
P0183 Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor
P0217 Engine Coolant High Temperature Enrichment Protection
P0221 Throttle Position Sensor
P0222 Throttle Position Sensor
P0223 Throttle Position Sensor
P0226 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P0227 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P0228 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P0245 Supercharger Bypass Valve Control Solenoid Valve
P0300 Random Misfire
P0301–*P0308 Misfire, Cylinder No. 1–8
P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1
P0327 Knock Sensor
P0328 Knock Sensor
P0330 Knock Sensor, Bank 2
P0335 CKP (Crank Shaft Position) Sensor
P0340 CMP (Cam Shaft Position) Sensor (Phase)
P0345 CMP Sensor (Phase)
P0350 Ignition Signal
P0400 EGR System
P0402 EGRC/BPT Valve
P0403 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit
P0405 EGR Temperature Sensor
P0406 EGR Temperature Sensor
P0420 TW (Two-Way) Catalyst System, Bank 1
P0430 TW Catalyst System, Bank 2
P0440 EVAP Small Leak
P0441 EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitor
P0442 EVAP Control System
P0443 Purge Control/V & S/V
P0444 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
P0445 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
P0447 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve
P0450 EVAP Pressure Sensor
P0451 EVAP System Pressure Sensor
P0452 EVAP System Pressure Sensor
P0453 EVAP System Pressure Sensor
P0455 EVAP Control System
P0456 EVAP Control System
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Unit (Slow)
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Function
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor
P0464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor
P0505 IACV/AAC Valve
P0506 Idle Speed Control System
P0507 Idle Speed Control System
P0510 Closed TP Sensor
P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor
P0600 A/T Comm Line
P0605 ECM/ECU
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp
P0705 PNP Or Inhibitor Switch
P0710 ATF Temp Sensor
P0720 VSS A/T
P0725 Engine Speed Signal
P0731 A/T 1ST Signal
P0732 A/T 2ND Signal
P0733 A/T 3RD Signal
P0734 A/T 4TH Signal Or TCC
P0740 TCC SV Solenoid
P0744 A/T TCC Signal
P0745 Line Pressure S/V
P0750 Shift Solenoid/V A
P0755 Shift Solenoid/V B
P1031 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Meter
P1032 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Meter
P1065 ECM Power Supply Heater
P1102 Mass Air Flow Sensor Function Heater
P1103 MAP Sensor Heater
P1104 MAP Sensor Heater
P1105 MAP/BARO Switch SOL/V
P1108 MAP Sensor Heater
P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank
P1111 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve
P1119 Radiator Temperature Sensor Circuit
P1120 TP Sensor 2
P1121 Electronic Throttle Control Actuator
P1122 Electronic Throttle Control Actuator
P1124 Throttle Control Motor Relay
P1125 Tandem TP Sensor
P1126 Throttle Control Motor Relay
P1128 Throttle Control Motor
P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
P1131 Swirl Control Solenoid Valve
P1132 Swirl Control Valve
P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control, RH Bank 2
P1136 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve
P1137 Swirl Control Valve Position Sensor
P1138 Swirl Control Valve
P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, LH Bank 1
P1143 Heated O2 Sensor 1
P1144 Heated O2 Sensor 1
P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 2
P1146 Heated O2 Sensor 2
P1147 Heated O2 Sensor 2
P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1
P1163 Heated O2 Sensor 1
P1164 Heated O2 Sensor 1
P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch
P1166 Heated O2 Sensor 2
P1167 Heated O2 Sensor 2
P1168 Closed Loop, Bank 2
P1169 Heated O2 Sensor 3
P1170 Heated O2 Sensor 3
P1210 Traction Control Signal Circuit
P1211 ABS/TCS Control Unit
P1212 ABS/TCS Communication Line
P1217 Engine Coolant Temperature
P1220 FPCM
P1221 Throttle Actuator Circuit
P1222 Temperature Sensor Circuit
P1223 Throttle Position Sensor 2
P1224 Throttle Position Sensor 2
P1225 Closed Throttle Position Learning
P1226 Closed Throttle Position Learning
P1227 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2
P1228 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2
P1229 Sensor Power Supply
P1271 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1272 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1273 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1274 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1276 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1278 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1279 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1320 Ignition Signal, Primary
P1335 CKP Sensor (Ref)
P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) Cog
P1400 EGRC Solenoid/V
P1401 EGR Temp Sensor
P1402 EGR System
P1440 EVAP Small Leak
P1441 VC/V Bypass/V
P1443 Canister Control Vacuum Check Switch
P1444 Purge Volume Control/V
P1445 Purge Volume Control/V
P1446 Vent Control Valve
P1447 EVAP Purge Flow
P1448 Vent Control Valve
P1456 EVAP Control System
P1464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Ground Signal
P1480 Fan Control Solenoid Valve Circuit
P1490 VC/V Bypass/V
P1491 VC Cut/V Bypass/V
P1492 Purge Control/V S/V
P1493 Purge Control/V & S/V
P1564 ASCD Steering Switch
P1568 ICC (Intelligent Cruise Control)
P1572 ASCD (Automatic Sped Control Device) Brake Switch
P1574 ASCD Vehicle Speed Sensor
P1605 A/T Diag Comm Line
P1610 NATS Malfunction
P1611 NATS Malfunction
P1612 NATS Malfunction
P1613 NATS Malfunction
P1614 NATS Malfunction
P1615 NATS Malfunction
P1705 TP Sensor A/T
P1706 PNP Switch
P1720 Vehicle Speed Sensor- A/T Output
P1760 Overrun Clutch S/V
P1775 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve
P1776 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve
P1780 Shift Change Signal
P1800 VIAS Control Solenoid Valve
P1805 Brake switch
P1900 Cooling Fan
P2122 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P2123 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P2127 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2
P2128 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2
P2135 Throttle Position Sensor
P2138 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
                    [post_title] => 350Z Diagnostic ECU Codes and How to Clear Them
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            [post_content] => Clearing Codes on the G35 and 350Z
There are several ways to clear ECU error codes.

- Scan Tool
If using a scan tool, follow tool manufacturer’s instructions to clear Codes.

- Manual Method
Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" Light.

Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds:
Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
Fully release the accelerator pedal.
Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
Wait about 10 seconds.
Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

- With Consult

Turn ignition Off.
Connect Consult’the data link connector (DLC), located behind fuse box cover.
Turn ignition On.
Touch Start.
Touch Engine.
Perform each diagnostic test mode according to each service procedure.

- Without Consult
Turn ignition On.
Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECU fully clockwise and wait until inspection lamps flash. #Number of flashes displayed indicates corresponding mode.
Note number of flashes, then immediately turn diagnostic mode selector fully counterclockwise.
If ignition is turned Off during diagnosis, in each mode, and then turned back on again after power to the ECU has dropped off completely, diagnosis will automatically return to Mode I.
For description of modes, proceed as follows:

(Mode I): with engine stopped, system in bulb check state. with engine running, system in malfunction warning state.

(Mode II): with engine stopped, system in self diagnostic results state. with engine running, system in front O2S monitor state.

- Codes
P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated
P0011 Intake Valve Timing Control
P0021 Intake Valve Timing Control
P0031 O2 Sensor Heather
P0032 O2 Sensor Heather
P0037 O2 Sensor Heather
P0038 O2 Sensor Heather
P0043 O2 Sensor Heather
P0044 O2 Sensor Heather
P0051 O2 Sensor Heather
P0052 O2 Sensor Heather
P0057 O2 Sensor Heather
P0058 O2 Sensor Heather
P0100 MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor
P0101 MAF Sensor
P0102 MAF Sensor
P0103 MAF Sensor
P0105 Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0107 Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0108 Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0110 IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Sensor
P0112 IAT Sensor
P0113 IAT Sensor
P0115 ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor
P0117 ECT Sensor
P0118 ECT Sensor
P0120 TP (Throttle Position) Sensor
P0121 TP Sensor
P0122 TP Sensor
P0123 TP Sensor
P0125 ECT Sensor
P0127 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
P0128 Thermostat Function
P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1
P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring
P0132 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Rich Shift Monitoring
P0133 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Response Monitoring
P0134 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 High Voltage
P0135 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 1
P0136 Rear O2S, Bank 1
P0137 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Minimum Voltage Monitoring
P0138 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring
P0139 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Response Monitoring
P0140 Rear O2S, Bank 1 High Voltage
P0141 Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1
P0144 O2 Sensor Heather
P0150 Closed Loop, Bank 2 Or Front O2S, Bank 2
P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring
P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring
P0153 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Response Monitoring
P0154 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 High Voltage
P0155 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 2
P0156 Rear H02S Sensor, LH Bank
P0157 Rear O2S, Bank 2
P0158 Rear O2S, Bank 2
P0159 Rear O2S, Bank 2
P0160 Rear O2S, Bank 2
P0161 Rear H02S Heater, LH Bank Or Bank 2
P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1
P0172 Fuel System Rich, Bank 1
P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2
P0175 Fuel System Rich, Bank 2
P0180 Tank Fuel Temp Sensor
P0182 Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor
P0183 Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor
P0217 Engine Coolant High Temperature Enrichment Protection
P0221 Throttle Position Sensor
P0222 Throttle Position Sensor
P0223 Throttle Position Sensor
P0226 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P0227 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P0228 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P0245 Supercharger Bypass Valve Control Solenoid Valve
P0300 Random Misfire
P0301–*P0308 Misfire, Cylinder No. 1–8
P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1
P0327 Knock Sensor
P0328 Knock Sensor
P0330 Knock Sensor, Bank 2
P0335 CKP (Crank Shaft Position) Sensor
P0340 CMP (Cam Shaft Position) Sensor (Phase)
P0345 CMP Sensor (Phase)
P0350 Ignition Signal
P0400 EGR System
P0402 EGRC/BPT Valve
P0403 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit
P0405 EGR Temperature Sensor
P0406 EGR Temperature Sensor
P0420 TW (Two-Way) Catalyst System, Bank 1
P0430 TW Catalyst System, Bank 2
P0440 EVAP Small Leak
P0441 EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitor
P0442 EVAP Control System
P0443 Purge Control/V & S/V
P0444 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
P0445 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
P0447 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve
P0450 EVAP Pressure Sensor
P0451 EVAP System Pressure Sensor
P0452 EVAP System Pressure Sensor
P0453 EVAP System Pressure Sensor
P0455 EVAP Control System
P0456 EVAP Control System
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Unit (Slow)
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Function
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor
P0464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor
P0505 IACV/AAC Valve
P0506 Idle Speed Control System
P0507 Idle Speed Control System
P0510 Closed TP Sensor
P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor
P0600 A/T Comm Line
P0605 ECM/ECU
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp
P0705 PNP Or Inhibitor Switch
P0710 ATF Temp Sensor
P0720 VSS A/T
P0725 Engine Speed Signal
P0731 A/T 1ST Signal
P0732 A/T 2ND Signal
P0733 A/T 3RD Signal
P0734 A/T 4TH Signal Or TCC
P0740 TCC SV Solenoid
P0744 A/T TCC Signal
P0745 Line Pressure S/V
P0750 Shift Solenoid/V A
P0755 Shift Solenoid/V B
P1031 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Meter
P1032 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Meter
P1065 ECM Power Supply Heater
P1102 Mass Air Flow Sensor Function Heater
P1103 MAP Sensor Heater
P1104 MAP Sensor Heater
P1105 MAP/BARO Switch SOL/V
P1108 MAP Sensor Heater
P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank
P1111 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve
P1119 Radiator Temperature Sensor Circuit
P1120 TP Sensor 2
P1121 Electronic Throttle Control Actuator
P1122 Electronic Throttle Control Actuator
P1124 Throttle Control Motor Relay
P1125 Tandem TP Sensor
P1126 Throttle Control Motor Relay
P1128 Throttle Control Motor
P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
P1131 Swirl Control Solenoid Valve
P1132 Swirl Control Valve
P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control, RH Bank 2
P1136 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve
P1137 Swirl Control Valve Position Sensor
P1138 Swirl Control Valve
P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, LH Bank 1
P1143 Heated O2 Sensor 1
P1144 Heated O2 Sensor 1
P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 2
P1146 Heated O2 Sensor 2
P1147 Heated O2 Sensor 2
P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1
P1163 Heated O2 Sensor 1
P1164 Heated O2 Sensor 1
P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch
P1166 Heated O2 Sensor 2
P1167 Heated O2 Sensor 2
P1168 Closed Loop, Bank 2
P1169 Heated O2 Sensor 3
P1170 Heated O2 Sensor 3
P1210 Traction Control Signal Circuit
P1211 ABS/TCS Control Unit
P1212 ABS/TCS Communication Line
P1217 Engine Coolant Temperature
P1220 FPCM
P1221 Throttle Actuator Circuit
P1222 Temperature Sensor Circuit
P1223 Throttle Position Sensor 2
P1224 Throttle Position Sensor 2
P1225 Closed Throttle Position Learning
P1226 Closed Throttle Position Learning
P1227 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2
P1228 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2
P1229 Sensor Power Supply
P1271 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1272 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1273 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1274 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1276 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1278 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1279 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
P1320 Ignition Signal, Primary
P1335 CKP Sensor (Ref)
P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) Cog
P1400 EGRC Solenoid/V
P1401 EGR Temp Sensor
P1402 EGR System
P1440 EVAP Small Leak
P1441 VC/V Bypass/V
P1443 Canister Control Vacuum Check Switch
P1444 Purge Volume Control/V
P1445 Purge Volume Control/V
P1446 Vent Control Valve
P1447 EVAP Purge Flow
P1448 Vent Control Valve
P1456 EVAP Control System
P1464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Ground Signal
P1480 Fan Control Solenoid Valve Circuit
P1490 VC/V Bypass/V
P1491 VC Cut/V Bypass/V
P1492 Purge Control/V S/V
P1493 Purge Control/V & S/V
P1564 ASCD Steering Switch
P1568 ICC (Intelligent Cruise Control)
P1572 ASCD (Automatic Sped Control Device) Brake Switch
P1574 ASCD Vehicle Speed Sensor
P1605 A/T Diag Comm Line
P1610 NATS Malfunction
P1611 NATS Malfunction
P1612 NATS Malfunction
P1613 NATS Malfunction
P1614 NATS Malfunction
P1615 NATS Malfunction
P1705 TP Sensor A/T
P1706 PNP Switch
P1720 Vehicle Speed Sensor- A/T Output
P1760 Overrun Clutch S/V
P1775 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve
P1776 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve
P1780 Shift Change Signal
P1800 VIAS Control Solenoid Valve
P1805 Brake switch
P1900 Cooling Fan
P2122 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P2123 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
P2127 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2
P2128 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2
P2135 Throttle Position Sensor
P2138 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
            [post_title] => 350Z Diagnostic ECU Codes and How to Clear Them
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Clearing Codes on the G35 and 350Z There are several ways to clear ECU error codes. – Scan Tool If using a scan tool, follow tool manufacturer’s instructions to clear Codes. – Manual Method Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the […]

Installing an Under Drive Pulley for the Infiniti VQ35DE

December 10, 2009 by admin

"installing-an-under-drive-pulley-for-the-vq35de"

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                    [post_content] => This instruction is specific to the VQ35 DE motor. Is to help guide you in the removal of the OEM pulley and installation of an aftermarket Under Drive Pulley.

First jack up the car, (in my case, the lift) and remove the wheel and access cover which is held on with 5 clips.



Here's a tip: before you remove the belt, make a sketch of how it's suppose to look like once you re-install the belt. We used the underside of the access panel.



The flash kind a distorted the pic but you can see the diagram we drew. It's probably in the FSM.



When everything is exposed, you'll see the crank pulley and to the left of that you'll see the tension pulley. To the left of the tension pulley, you'll see these two holes. You'll need to lift up on the belt  and swing the tension pulley to the left until you line up the holes. When they're lined up stick a screw driver through the holes to keep the tension off of the belt.






If you have an impact wrench handy, use a 19mm socket to remove the pulley bolt. If you don't, I'm sure you'll be able to use a breaker bar but it'll be easier if you have an impact wrench.



Once you have the bolt off, the pulley will come off. It it doesn't, tap it with a hard nylon hammer around the pulley to loosen it up. The crank is keyed so you don't need to remember the position of the pulley.






Now get the new pulley. Since it's made by Stillen, I knew that the dimensions would be right on with the exception of the diameter size. But if you guys decide to buy a different pulley, make sure that the height dimension is equal to the OEM pulley.



Put the new pulley on and make sure the key on the crank is lined up with the key grove on the pulley. Gently tap it into place with the nylon head hammer. Hand screw the pulley bolt back on pulley









Now get the new belt and put it back on the way it came off. Use your handy dandy drawing you did on the access panel to help you... Make sure the belt is sitting into grooves of all the pulleys. If not, the belt will be shredded into pieces when you run the motor.









Remove the screwdriver that's holding the tension pulley so the tension is re-applied. Use a sharpie to mark the pulley and the pulley bolt at the 9 o'clock position and just the pulley on the 12 o'clock position. These marks will serve as reference as you tighten the pulley bolt. When the bolt is tightened, the mark on the pulley bolt will get closer to the 12 o'clock mark you placed on the pulley.



Use a torque wrench to place 33ft-lbs on the pulley bolt. This is to "seat" the pulley flush before you secure it with an impact wrench. Remember, this will be spinning at high revolutions. You don't want this to be seated crooked at those speeds! Use a screwdriver to "wedge" the pulley when you do this or else the pulley will just spin. You'll notice the mark on the bolt is now between the initial reference marks.






Once you have the bolt tightened to the 33ft-lbs with the torque wrench, use the impact wrench to tighten it down further.  Again this will bring the reference mark on the bolt pulley even closer to the 12o'clock mark.







Once you're done with the pulley, put back the access panel with the 5 clips, and put the wheel back on. Lower the car and call it a day. 

Originally Posted by Dangeris
                    [post_title] => Installing an Under Drive Pulley for the Infiniti VQ35DE
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            [post_content] => This instruction is specific to the VQ35 DE motor. Is to help guide you in the removal of the OEM pulley and installation of an aftermarket Under Drive Pulley.

First jack up the car, (in my case, the lift) and remove the wheel and access cover which is held on with 5 clips.



Here's a tip: before you remove the belt, make a sketch of how it's suppose to look like once you re-install the belt. We used the underside of the access panel.



The flash kind a distorted the pic but you can see the diagram we drew. It's probably in the FSM.



When everything is exposed, you'll see the crank pulley and to the left of that you'll see the tension pulley. To the left of the tension pulley, you'll see these two holes. You'll need to lift up on the belt  and swing the tension pulley to the left until you line up the holes. When they're lined up stick a screw driver through the holes to keep the tension off of the belt.






If you have an impact wrench handy, use a 19mm socket to remove the pulley bolt. If you don't, I'm sure you'll be able to use a breaker bar but it'll be easier if you have an impact wrench.



Once you have the bolt off, the pulley will come off. It it doesn't, tap it with a hard nylon hammer around the pulley to loosen it up. The crank is keyed so you don't need to remember the position of the pulley.






Now get the new pulley. Since it's made by Stillen, I knew that the dimensions would be right on with the exception of the diameter size. But if you guys decide to buy a different pulley, make sure that the height dimension is equal to the OEM pulley.



Put the new pulley on and make sure the key on the crank is lined up with the key grove on the pulley. Gently tap it into place with the nylon head hammer. Hand screw the pulley bolt back on pulley









Now get the new belt and put it back on the way it came off. Use your handy dandy drawing you did on the access panel to help you... Make sure the belt is sitting into grooves of all the pulleys. If not, the belt will be shredded into pieces when you run the motor.









Remove the screwdriver that's holding the tension pulley so the tension is re-applied. Use a sharpie to mark the pulley and the pulley bolt at the 9 o'clock position and just the pulley on the 12 o'clock position. These marks will serve as reference as you tighten the pulley bolt. When the bolt is tightened, the mark on the pulley bolt will get closer to the 12 o'clock mark you placed on the pulley.



Use a torque wrench to place 33ft-lbs on the pulley bolt. This is to "seat" the pulley flush before you secure it with an impact wrench. Remember, this will be spinning at high revolutions. You don't want this to be seated crooked at those speeds! Use a screwdriver to "wedge" the pulley when you do this or else the pulley will just spin. You'll notice the mark on the bolt is now between the initial reference marks.






Once you have the bolt tightened to the 33ft-lbs with the torque wrench, use the impact wrench to tighten it down further.  Again this will bring the reference mark on the bolt pulley even closer to the 12o'clock mark.







Once you're done with the pulley, put back the access panel with the 5 clips, and put the wheel back on. Lower the car and call it a day. 

Originally Posted by Dangeris
            [post_title] => Installing an Under Drive Pulley for the Infiniti VQ35DE
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This instruction is specific to the VQ35 DE motor. Is to help guide you in the removal of the OEM pulley and installation of an aftermarket Under Drive Pulley. First jack up the car, (in my case, the lift) and remove the wheel and access cover which is held on with 5 clips. Here’s a […]

G35 Spark plug replacement

December 10, 2009 by admin

"g35-spark-plug-replacement"

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                    [post_content] => OEM part # is 22401-5m015TOOLS:
6 NGK LFR6AIX-11 Iridium IX Sparkplugs (these are 1 heat range cooler than stock)
3/8" Rachet
3/8" long extension (at least ten inches)
10mm socket
16mm "deep" socket (or "sparkplug socket")
Magnetic pick up tool
3-prong grabber (optional, you'll need it if you don't have a "sparkplug socket")
Pliers
Torque Wrench 
Most people would have these tools in their garage. The long extension is a must. The magnetic and pronged "pickup tools" make this much easier.

PROCEDURE:
1) DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL!
2) Remove the engine cover. it is 2 10mm nuts and 2 10mm bolts
3) Remove the intake tube. This should require the removal of (1) 10mm bolt and 2 hose clamps. Don't forget to disconnect the rubber breather tube; use pliers to loosen the clamp. Then pull the rubber tube away from the intake pipe.
4) Let's start on the driver's side first.
5) There are 3 coils on each head. They are held in place with a single 10mm bolt. Underneath these coils are the sparkplugs.
6) to gain better access to the coils, you'll need to remove 3 10mm bolts which hold down an electrical harness just above the coils. All the bolts are easy to get to. You may have to push a couple hoses out of the way to get the back bolt though. Be careful not to drop the bolts!!! The magnetic pick-up tool can be very helpful here!
7) After you have removed the bolts for the electrical harness, Disconnect the plugs going to the individual coils. There are 3 plugs to undo. They are snug, but they come off fairly easily with just your fingers. Remember which plug goes to which coil. That is extremely important!!!!
8) Now you have good access to the coils! Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt from the coil. Once you have removed the bolt, the coil will pull straight up out of the head. This should be very easy to pullout.
9) You should be able to see the spark plug in the hole. It is pretty far down there.
10) Use the 16mm socket with the extension to remove the plug. If you aren't using a sparkplug socket, you'll need to use a 3-prong, spring loaded pick-up tool. This tool makes plucking the plug out the head very easy. I'm sure you can come up with some other sort of tool to do the job, but that is what I used.
11) Replace the spark plug with your new plug! Torque the plug to 20 FT-LBs! Make sure not to crossthread or overtorque the plugs! Aluminum heads are easy to strip out!
12) Replace the coil; torque its bolt to 95 IN-LBs and plug it back in to the harness.
13) Repeat steps 8-11 for the other 2 cylinders!
14) Now, you have completed the driver's side of the engine. Don't forget to bolt the wiring harness back into position with its 3 10mm bolts. 
15) You can also replace the intake tube at this time.
16) On to the passenger's side of the engine.
17) This side is slightly harder....only because some of the bolts are difficult to reach by hand.
18) I started by removing 2 10mm bolts which retain the wiring harness. I only removed the 2 bolts closest to the front and middle of the head. The rear bolt is not necessary to remove.
19) You will need to remove the rubber breather tune that runs from the valve cover to the intake manifold. Use the pliers to loosen the clamps; then, slide the tube off of the engine.
20) Now, you should be able to disconnect the electrical plugs from the coils. This is the same as on the driver's side.
21) The coil removal and plugs change is the same as described above. The only difference is that the back (toward firewall) coil bolt is difficult to get to with your fingers. Use the magnetic tool to remove and replace this bolt.
22) After repeating the procedure for all the cylinders, you should be done. Make sure to check that all the electrical connectors are snug and "clicked" tight.
23) Very important, you shouldn't have any extra bolts laying around!!!!
24) put the engine cover back on. Secure it with its 4 fasteners
25) reconnect the negative battery terminal.
26) YOU ARE DONE!!!!!

Here is a video submitted by "ByThaBay".  Here is the link. It is a very detailed video, and will really be helpful if you've never replaced your plugs before.
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            [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
            [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
            [post_content] => OEM part # is 22401-5m015
TOOLS:
6 NGK LFR6AIX-11 Iridium IX Sparkplugs (these are 1 heat range cooler than stock)
3/8" Rachet
3/8" long extension (at least ten inches)
10mm socket
16mm "deep" socket (or "sparkplug socket")
Magnetic pick up tool
3-prong grabber (optional, you'll need it if you don't have a "sparkplug socket")
Pliers
Torque Wrench 
Most people would have these tools in their garage. The long extension is a must. The magnetic and pronged "pickup tools" make this much easier.

PROCEDURE:
1) DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL!
2) Remove the engine cover. it is 2 10mm nuts and 2 10mm bolts
3) Remove the intake tube. This should require the removal of (1) 10mm bolt and 2 hose clamps. Don't forget to disconnect the rubber breather tube; use pliers to loosen the clamp. Then pull the rubber tube away from the intake pipe.
4) Let's start on the driver's side first.
5) There are 3 coils on each head. They are held in place with a single 10mm bolt. Underneath these coils are the sparkplugs.
6) to gain better access to the coils, you'll need to remove 3 10mm bolts which hold down an electrical harness just above the coils. All the bolts are easy to get to. You may have to push a couple hoses out of the way to get the back bolt though. Be careful not to drop the bolts!!! The magnetic pick-up tool can be very helpful here!
7) After you have removed the bolts for the electrical harness, Disconnect the plugs going to the individual coils. There are 3 plugs to undo. They are snug, but they come off fairly easily with just your fingers. Remember which plug goes to which coil. That is extremely important!!!!
8) Now you have good access to the coils! Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt from the coil. Once you have removed the bolt, the coil will pull straight up out of the head. This should be very easy to pullout.
9) You should be able to see the spark plug in the hole. It is pretty far down there.
10) Use the 16mm socket with the extension to remove the plug. If you aren't using a sparkplug socket, you'll need to use a 3-prong, spring loaded pick-up tool. This tool makes plucking the plug out the head very easy. I'm sure you can come up with some other sort of tool to do the job, but that is what I used.
11) Replace the spark plug with your new plug! Torque the plug to 20 FT-LBs! Make sure not to crossthread or overtorque the plugs! Aluminum heads are easy to strip out!
12) Replace the coil; torque its bolt to 95 IN-LBs and plug it back in to the harness.
13) Repeat steps 8-11 for the other 2 cylinders!
14) Now, you have completed the driver's side of the engine. Don't forget to bolt the wiring harness back into position with its 3 10mm bolts. 
15) You can also replace the intake tube at this time.
16) On to the passenger's side of the engine.
17) This side is slightly harder....only because some of the bolts are difficult to reach by hand.
18) I started by removing 2 10mm bolts which retain the wiring harness. I only removed the 2 bolts closest to the front and middle of the head. The rear bolt is not necessary to remove.
19) You will need to remove the rubber breather tune that runs from the valve cover to the intake manifold. Use the pliers to loosen the clamps; then, slide the tube off of the engine.
20) Now, you should be able to disconnect the electrical plugs from the coils. This is the same as on the driver's side.
21) The coil removal and plugs change is the same as described above. The only difference is that the back (toward firewall) coil bolt is difficult to get to with your fingers. Use the magnetic tool to remove and replace this bolt.
22) After repeating the procedure for all the cylinders, you should be done. Make sure to check that all the electrical connectors are snug and "clicked" tight.
23) Very important, you shouldn't have any extra bolts laying around!!!!
24) put the engine cover back on. Secure it with its 4 fasteners
25) reconnect the negative battery terminal.
26) YOU ARE DONE!!!!!

Here is a video submitted by "ByThaBay".  Here is the link. It is a very detailed video, and will really be helpful if you've never replaced your plugs before.
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OEM part # is 22401-5m015 TOOLS: 6 NGK LFR6AIX-11 Iridium IX Sparkplugs (these are 1 heat range cooler than stock)3/8″ Rachet3/8″ long extension (at least ten inches)10mm socket16mm “deep” socket (or “sparkplug socket”)Magnetic pick up tool3-prong grabber (optional, you’ll need it if you don’t have a “sparkplug socket”)PliersTorque Wrench Most people would have these tools […]