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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...
 

This project began like many others: Not a "project" at all.

Shortly after taking over operations of NICOclub, and having spent countless hours with the members of 240sx.org, I began to hear the inevitable question:


 
"So, why doesn't the owner of 240sx.org even OWN a 240?"
 


To be truthful, I'd simply never been a fan of the car before. Being an old musclecar fanatic, and having gone through high school in the late 80's, I remember the first 240sx's to roll out.  In fact, my girlfriend's mom bought a brand new one soon after my high school graduation... A pignose hatch, automatic, red, with all the goodies available at the time.  My early assessment: Pop-up headlights? How "Fiero" of them! Big glass hatch? Wow, throw some louvers on it and it'll be a 280Z. Single-cam 4-banger? Please. My carburetor had more displacement than that thing. No chrome? Pffft.

Fast-forward to a few years ago...

My first line of thinking was, "OK, if I HAVE to buy a 240sx, and learn all about it, I suppose it should be something unique. Something cool. Something that AT LEAST stands out from all the other 240sx's..."

My second line of thinking was, "How am I going to sell this idea to my wife?" We already owned a Q45 and a Pathfinder, and neither of us needed another car - much less a 2-seater!

So, during the course of my search, I ran across a couple convertibles for sale. Hmmmm.... Kinda unique, certainly not "dime-a-dozen"... The wife and I had always dreamed of restoring a '70 Corvette convertible but had been put off by the expense... This JUST might work!

I went and looked at a few for sale locally. My main criteria were: No body damage, and the interior must be intact.

Well, as any convertible lover knows, these two things just DON'T happen together.

The first one was white, and had the worst interior I'd ever seen. Looked like a couple pissed-off Rottweilers had been locked inside it for a week. The owner wants $2000 more than the car is worth - he says, "Well, we just had the A/C redone - that was $1000!" Ugh... Bye.

The second one was red. Well, OK, it was pink. Because Aztec Red + the Arizona sun + 10 years of parking outside = pink. And, contrary to the owner's "story", it had been hit. HARD. In the quarter panel. Nice repair, but I saw the damage after removing the trunk panels. Thanks for nothing. Jerk.

The third one was white. Geez, do they MAKE these damn cars in any other color? This one was owned by a frat boy at the U of A, and it looked like it was the "Official Keg Transporter". The rotting wet leaves in the floorboard left me thinking I'd wasted another Saturday. Sorry, no tuition for you, Abercrombie-Boy.

So, I kinda forgot about a 240 for a while. I'm having lunch one day, and a guy had left an AutoTrader behind on the table.

Eh, I flip through and see an ad (big picture) for a 240 convertible for sale... 120K miles, perfect paint, no interior damage, owned by a retired Navy Pilot... In Bakersfield, CA. No way I'm driving to CA just to be disappointed again.

But what if it IS "the one"? Dial the number. Talk to the owner. Nice guy, car sounds legit. He says it's black. Oooh, I like black, this is good. I tell him my tale of woe. He wants more than I want to spend... Just as I'm getting discouraged, he says, "If it's not NICER than I described, I'll pay for your trip." It just so happened we were going to CA on vacation in two weeks, so I told him to hold the car and sent a deposit.

Aside from some wear (to be expected on a car with 120K miles), the car was clean. No accidents, a couple little dings, some sheepskin seat covers (that had turned "cookie monster blue" from the sun), and faded carpet - Nothing I couldn't fix. The A/C blew ice cold, the motor ran strong, and the car rode nicely. Sold.
        
How she looked on Day One... Poor car had no clue what she was getting into....

 
Next:  Part II: What, Just Wheels?
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:  03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

                    [post_title] => NICO Project 240sx - Part 1
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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"
For those of you who have been following the four-year build of Project Vert, you'll know it's undergone many radical changes... from the high-horsepower KA-T build to the suspension work to the removal of all top-related stuff, to the hacking of the fenders and addition of crazy wheel / tire fitment.

Part of the fun of building something so outrageous is getting it out on the road where you can enjoy it, and show it off to other people. And while this 240sx convertible draws a lot of attention, the modifications to it have transformed it from a comfortable, reliable cruiser into an ill-tempered, temperamental beast.

With ride height on coilovers leaving roughly 2" of ground clearance between the oil pan skidplate and the asphalt, any undulations or irregularities in the surface threatened not only the safety of the drive but also the undercarriage and aero parts. Getting into the driveway was an exercise in creative driving, and avoiding speed bumps often called for some unique ways of getting through a parking lot.

Worse still, getting a car this low onto jackstands for maintenance or repairs was a time-consuming and miserable task. And, as you guys know, if something's not easy to get to, it can get neglected - It's sometimes just not worth the effort. I'd have to use my low-profile ramps, 4 pieces of pressboard, a low-profile jack, and another jack just to get all four wheels in the air. No fun.


So, when KSport displayed their Airtech Pro Suspension System at the SEMA show this past year, I was instantly interested. I had seen it in use on the track, so I knew it would stand up to the abuse I would put it through.

Air bag suspension systems of the past (like the ones you've seen for minitrucks), where consumers must piece together a complete kit from scratch, compromise their reliability and performance.
KSport’s revolutionary Airtech Suspension System comes as a complete, model specific kit that is 100% bolt-on with no custom modifications needed. Each Airtech Suspension System is fully developed for a particular vehicle with model specific dampers, air compressors, lines, wiring harnesses and instructions.

I liked the idea of being able to hit a button and raise the car enough to get a jack under it, clear a speed bump, and best of all, drive it into the driveway without an instruction manual.


All Airtech Suspension Systems include KSport’s monotube coil over dampers with air bags that are pre-installed at the factory. All dampers utilize billet, 6061 aluminum components with zinc electroplated steel shafts that are resistant to salt, rust, dirt and other harmful environmental conditions.

The dampers offer 36 levels of adjustment, simultaneously altering rebound and compression. Ride height is adjusted through the air bags which can be controlled internally in the cockpit, or remotely with KSport’s award winning keyfob-style height adjustment controller. Height adjustment can also be performed on the damper itself by using KSport’s unique adjustable mounting technology, which allows height adjustment without sacrificing suspension travel or ride comfort.

The kit I selected kits came complete with Viair air compressors, all necessary wiring and plumbing materials, instructions, and height adjustment controls for in-car and remote use. With the convenience of Airtech’s bolt-on installation, excellent ride comfort and versatility, KSport has changed the way enthusiasts approach and utilize high quality air bag suspension systems.

With no compromise in quality, safety and performance, Airtech Suspension Systems are a must have item for anyone interested in leading-egde technology, at a competitive price.

In April, we'll be hitting a drift event to evaluate how she performs under track conditions... Initial impressions in a non-controlled environment revealed that there's simply no discernable difference in the feel from coils to bags, partly due to the rigid bag design and the adjustability of both height and dampening. Hard acceleration, cornering, braking, and full-throttle sideways action felt remarkably similar, and the car is very well-behaved, even at lower bag pressure (lower ride height).

So, without further ado, here are the pictures of the install process:
    

And here we have it:  A rolling anomaly, certain to appeal to many and aggravate even more.  
            

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  Update
 	
 Part X:  Update - Bagged Suspension

                    [post_title] => NICO Project 240sx Part 10 KSport Air Bag Suspension Installation
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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...


"I'm only gonna put wheels on it."
Yep. That's how it starts. After owning over 20 vehicles, I've come to find that this means trouble.

In fact, if you find yourself saying these words, you can bet you'll be neck-deep in the car in question within a year.

Interestingly, no one else really took a liking to the 'vert. After a few rides in it, the kids thought it was "OK". The wife said it was "nice", and the local 240 guys came up with every "convertible-related" myth and tall-tale they'd ever heard. Well, damn.

The first order of business was to give the car a good, thorough cleaning - Now, when I clean a car, it KNOWS it's been cleaned. We're talking undercarriage detailing, removing parts, and scrubbing areas most folks don't ever see. But this is the only way to thoroughly assess the condition of a car and determine what needs replacing.

Ditched the cookie monster seat covers, tossed the floor mats, chucked the dashmat, and spent a whole weekend detailing it, inside and out. A good sign: I found more golf tees and golf balls hidden in the quarter panels than I could count - This car had hauled a golf bag or two in its day.

Next step - Restore the car to its original "as-new" running condition. Again, this is something I believe very strongly in. Too many people start throwing mods and performance parts at a car before they know how it originally performed, then wonder why they don't get the results they were hoping for.

Fortunately, NICOclub has several OEM parts suppliers to choose from, so I bought new everything: Belts, hoses, oil, filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fluids, bushings, thermostat, vacuum lines and a factory service manual. Nothing gets you acquainted with a "new" car like performing all necessary maintenance, and it's so much easier without 120K miles worth of road grime.

Not a bad performer thereafter! 140 crank HP isn't too terrible, and I was finding that, even with the slushbox, this car was designed RIGHT. Having never driven a 240sx prepped for track use, I could tell it wouldn't take much to make this platform perform beyond expectations - Nissan knew what they were doing.

Some further reading on our very own forums encouraged me to perform the first mod on the 'vert: Removal of the upper chain guide. That sound had bugged me since the beginning, and of course, it was an easy task. Also gave me a chance to assess the condition of the engine, and few engines with 120K miles looked as good.

  

 
Next:  Part III: Modifications just keep coming 
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:  03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

                    [post_title] => NICO Project 240sx - Part 2
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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...
"I thought you said you were going to put wheels on it?"


Now, my wife had already relegated herself to the fact that this car was going to get new wheels, and it seemed everywhere we went, she pointed out wheels she thought would look good on it. Our tastes differ somewhat, and 18" chrome wheels with no lip just weren't going to cut it on this car.

The stock 205/60/15 tires (convertibles had a 10mm larger OEM tire than the coupe or hatch) were wearing down, and I suspected the car would look much better with some old-school mesh wheels, maybe 16", with a polished lip.

Of course, there's the nightmare: 4-lug mesh staggered wheels with proper offset in reasonable widths? Not so simple. Fortunately, a local 240 owner had rescued a bedraggled set of Racing Sparco 16x7, 16x8 wheels from a JDM parts importer and decided he didn't have the patience to restore them.

Naturally, in the pursuit of saving some cash, I had gotten in over my head. Everyone that saw the "new wheels" in the garage turned up their nose. "Yuck. Those are UGLY!" They had obviously been sitting outside, in a moist climate, for years. The aluminum had actually corroded to the point it was white and bumpy, like cauliflower. The painted mesh centers had faded to a light grey color, and the red anodized center caps had turned pink.

Another trip to NICO and Google to learn how to restore aluminum wheels.

Lacking any professional equipment, the easiest way to refinish the polished lip was to mount a wheel on the rear, jack up the car, and run it at idle in gear. Brilliant move, right? Well, until you catch your fingers in the mesh spokes while trying to sand down the aluminum lip.... Kids, don't try this at home.

Three weekends of wheel restoration passed before they were presentable. 180 grit, 220 grit, 400 grit, 600 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, then 2 economy-size containers of Mother's Aluminum Polish. Countless rags, gloves and paper towels (and a tank of gas) were sacrificed for the good of these wheels, and halfway through the job, it really felt as if it was a waste of time. Once the lips were all polished, it was time to mask off the centers and refinish them. I searched for the perfect color, finally settling on a dark metallic gray epoxy paint. Fortunately, it turned out perfect, and the wheels were ready for tires.

   
I settled on 245/45 and 225/50's Kumho tires, which were within my budget and looked great. The wheels had miraculously maintained a good balance, and required only a couple small wheel weights to be in perfect balance. A set of black Kyokugen spline-drive lug nuts set off the look perfectly.

Before I ever left the tire shop, a couple onlookers commented on how good the car looked. No longer the golf-bag-lugging vehicle of a retiree, my excitement for the car was growing... Until one of them said, "Dude, it needs to be lowered - Badly."

Before the night was through, I had scoured NICO's Advertiser Directory for springs and struts, settling on a set of Tein S-Techs and KYB GR-2's. An inexpensive solution, but one that came recommended by lots of members as a good "entry-level" suspension setup. More reading ensued, and by the time the parts arrived, I was confident I could tackle the job.

Little did I know that using a spring compressor on a small import car was MUCH different than the procedure on a 60's-era domestic musclecar, and I'll tattle on myself and leave you with this image: A set of spring compressors, compressing the spring nicely, but hopelessly wedged into and unwilling to come out of the wheelwell.

Lesson learned. Those Japanese just HAD to make things easier than I ever thought...

What a difference in the ride - This car handles great! With the additional contact patch, lower center of gravity and increased dampening, it seemed as if it was "on rails". There simply wasn't enough power to outperform the suspension, and cornering was crisp and precise. Why in the world was this car ever marketed to secretaries?

It's hard to drive a 240sx without repping my own company, so a BRM exhaust found its way onto the 'vert... 2.5" aluminized steel, 22" resonator, dual tips. Best-sounding catback on the market, and all of a sudden, the car started getting some attention on the road - Some of it unwanted. Every schmuck in a modded Honda or Eclipse had to rev their ricewagons at me, and I knew deep inside that this wasn't a car I wanted to do the "Stoplight Tango" in.

By now, I felt good enough about the car to attend a night at the Pavilions with NICOmom riding shotgun.

Little did I know, that night's "peer pressure" from the local 240sx crowd would lead to the most extreme modifications yet...

 
Next:  Part IV: More Power
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:  03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

                    [post_title] => NICO Project 240sx - Part 3
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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...


"More Power"
 

Now, what car doesn't need more power? I mean, that's what we're all after, right?

While the convertible was starting to look good, it simply didn't have the power to back up the looks - Fine and dandy if all you do is sit and look at it, but I wanted to DRIVE it, and the performance simply wasn't living up to the looks.

Budget, experience and time considerations had conspired against any thoughts of a motor swap or adding boost, but there were still a few NA mods to be done that might add a little more power.

So, I decided on a header install and a cam swap - I could probably tackle both of these, and even if they only netted 20 horses, I'd be pleased. I knew from reading on 240sx.org that the Hotshot header was the nicest one on the market for the KA, and a local 240sx owner had a spare exhaust cam he wasn't using.

I used this tutorial: Dual-Exhaust cam swap for KA24DE engines to do the cam swap, and it was easier than I expected. I took advantage of having the valve cover off (again) to replace the gasket and seals, since the original might have been getting "tired" after so many years. The valve cover also got a fresh coat of black epoxy paint, to match the exterior.
    

I sourced a Hotshot header from Sport Compact Only (NICO advertiser) and installed it at the same time (with a LOT of help from Dan, aka 240sx2nr95). Fortunately, every bolt on the car was relatively easy to remove - nothing was seized up, no rust, no hassles.

Freeing up the exhaust and swapping the cams made a noticeable difference - The car seemed to rev faster, and it definitely had more power. Nowhere near to being a "street warrior", but the added power would tide me over until I decided what to do next.
To shift or be lazy...
That weekend, during a local 240sx meet, a couple of the locals were harping on me about doing a 5-speed conversion on the 'vert. "Sounds like a lot of work, I don't wanna chop up my car", says I. So, I get a 10-minute education on how it's a relatively easy process, and that it'll drop quite a bit of weight off the car. One of the locals even had the majority of the parts I'd need, and offered to help with the conversion. We scheduled a Tech Day, and the deal was done. 
     

Now, "Tech Day" here in Phoenix has become a bit of a legendary occasion. I'm fortunate enough to have a pretty large garage and a decent collection of tools. The garage has even been dubbed "Retard Garage" by those who frequent it (something catastrophic always happens), and the Tech Days we have are well-attended (usually 15-20 cars). We break out the grille, cook up some burgers, and work on cars, often late into the night. Good times, and the guys from AZ240sx.org are some of the best buddies you could want.

Announcing the the 'vert would finally be getting a 5-speed drew a massive crowd, and there was plenty of help on hand.

Some showed up to work, some to spectate, some to drink beer and eat burgers, and some to "supervise".

I chose an ACT Street / Strip clutch from AMS Performance (Turbo240.com), ordered a new flywheel from the local BAP Imports, and a new throwout bearing from Midway Nissan.

Here's a tutorial we used to do the swap:

How to Swap Your Auto Transmission for a 5-speed

Local wiring guru Adam (oneleg180) did an awesome job ensuring the top would still work (the car has to think it's in "Park" or the power top won't operate), and he made sure the reverse lights would function (another casualty of most 5-speed swaps).

A NISMO black resin shift knob seemed to be the only logical choice, and it looked right at home once installed.

Taking the time to break in the clutch seemed to NEVER pass. The loss of weight was obvious, and the feel of the clutch was perfect - Stiff, but with good feel and feedback. The convertible definitely felt a lot peppier, and now no one would make fun of its PRND21 affliction.

A new opportunity presents itself

Since the previous suspension upgrades, the new stance was just BEGGING for a front lip, to give it that "low, lean and mean" look, and again, one of the locals came through. Phoenix drifting phenom Champa just happened to have a pignose (89-90) front lip spoiler, and a few zipties and some metal brackets later, it was installed.

The timing couldn't have been better: One of the best automotive photographers, Mike Maez (www.FriscoMix.com) lives in the Phoenix area. Mike shoots for Modified Magazine and several other motorsports publications. He was eager to do a photoshoot, so we planned a journey to Lake Pleasant for a great backdrop. The results were outstanding, and the car was finally worthy of being photographed by a real pro.

  
How long would the 'vert stay in its current condition? Tune in to Part IV to find out!

 
Next: Part V: It's what's INSIDE that matters
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:  03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

                    [post_title] => NICO Project 240sx - Part 4
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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...
Looks like I skipped a very important mod in Part IV, so I'll tell you a little about that one here!

A little history first, if I may: The 240sx Convertible was built during a time when automakers were experimenting with door-mounted belts to meet Federal requirements for passive restraints. GM was the leader in this so-called "technology".

The lap belt is secured to the lower door and the shoulder restraint is attached to the upper door. The design was such that the belt was intended to be left buckled at all times (as stated in the owner's manual). Upon opening the door, both belts spooled out to allow entry and egress.


Door-mounted belts often contained excess slack and because they are loose they did not provided needed restraint. Another problem with the design of the door-mounted system is that if in an accident the door latch failed, (which can and does happen), then the occupant is no longer belted and is subject to ejection.Beyond that, the passive belt system on the 240sx Convertible, when modified by ASC, resulted in a couple additional problems:

One, the incredibly ugly door pillar.

Two, an enormously bulky door, nearly 30 pounds heavier than the coupe / hatch doors. These were designed NOT for added rigidity (as many erroneously believe), but to conceal the huge spools of belt required to span from the door to the latch when the door is opened.


Three, a horribly-designed door panel, which ASC developed to conceal all of the bracing and spacing for the huge door-mounted seat belt spools. These were made of an inferior material and are prone to cracking.

Time to reverse-engineer the doors.
I did a complete writeup on doing a "pillarless door conversion" after quite a bit of research. I believe the first person to do such a conversion was one of our former Moderators, Demetrius (TrunkMonkey). Mine was (to my knowledge) the second such conversion.

To save some effort, you can use a set of coupe or hatch doors, and follow the instructions for seatbelt conversion in the article linked above.

At any rate, this began the revamping of the interior of Project Vert. The new door panels (sourced from a local coupe) made the seats and carpet look terrible, so those were discarded in favor of a new molded carpet and a set of black leather S14 seats.

When I purchased the seats, from a pristine 1996 240sx, I secured both front and rear seats, thinking I could somehow modify them to work. While the fronts were a simple bolt-in affair, the rear seat presented quite a challenge. I don't recommend it.The lower seat portion required some flexing and squeezing to fit, and the anchor points had to be redesigned. I had to remove some metal tabs behind the rear side panels to attain some additional width, as the S14 interior is wider.

The upper seat portion was a whole different story, as it bears NO resemblance to the convertible's rear seat (which is quite a bit narrower). Basically, I gutted both seats, trimmed the S14 seatfoam, mounted it to the convertible seat frame, added some padding in the center, and wrapped the S14 seat leather around that. It's a hog-ring and zip-tie job, and I'm not too happy with it, but it'll get redone at some point. No one who's seen it has complained.

The new carpet arrived and got laid down, which was a relatively simple project. Nothing does more for your interior than a fresh new carpet, and this was a tremendous improvement.

I stripped the tweed covering off the door panels and glove box, removing the leftover adhesive with Goo-Gone, and gave them several treatments with 303 Protectant (best vinyl product on the market). The Convertible didn't come with a grab handle on the passenger side, so I grabbed one from a junkyard and added it while I was redoing the doors.  The rear seat side panels had leather inserts that matched the factory seats (light grey), so those got a couple coats of black Leather Dye to match the S14 seats.



An S13 Silvia 3-spoke steering wheel was sourced off ebay for $20, and a black leather stitch-on cover from WheelSkins makes it look like it belongs there.



I'm still searching for a JDM console with an armrest (instead of the little console lid) - I think that will set off the interior nicely.
 
 
Next:  Part VI: Project Vert Gets POWER!
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:  03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

                    [post_title] => NICO Project 240sx - Part 5
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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...
 

All those good looks are great, but the true weakness of the convertible came to light one day sitting in traffic... Some kids in a late-90's Acura CL were peepin' my ride, and asking some questions: "Is that a Silvia?" "Does it have an SR?" "Is it fast?"

Not wanting to be rude, I kinda shrugged, answered their questions the best I could. The driver says, "It sounds wicked - Bet it hauls ass!"

The light goes green, and in my head, I do some quick math: 145-horsepower 2.2-liter 4-cylinder in the CL, 3000 lbs, plus it's carrying 3 average-size guys. 240sx droptop weighs in at 3000 lbs, 2.4-liter 4-cylinder, no passengers. Ah, what the hell - I pound it.

The Acura pulls away from me, ever so slowly, with one very happy Honda fan thinking he's just scored a kill worthy of bragging rights.
Dejection.
I pull into a 7-11 for a Dr. Pepper and a pack of smokes, and plot my revenge. Dammit, I run the largest Nissan forums on the planet, this ain't happening again.

So, I do my research. A LOT. I want reliability, and I know from experience that an S-chassis with 200-250 hp is a formidable beast. Enough power to do the hula with modern musclecars, but docile enough to drive daily.

I'd already made up my mind to forego a JDM motor swap, for several reasons - not the least of which was the fact that all the good, low-mileage SR's are gone. Believe it. The days of the "40K mile SR fresh from Japan" are LONG past. Anyone telling you otherwise is full of it. Not wanting to rebuild a motor, and not wanting to give up a precious half-liter of displacement, I made up my mind to do a mildly-boosted KA.

At the time, we had a sponsor on NICO who was building an entry-level turbo kit for the S13. We talked at length, and planned a date for the install - the owner of the company offered to fly out and assist with the install - Can't beat that, right? I wrote the check, and anxiously awaited the arrival of "install day".

In the interim, I decided to prepare the Convertible for her upcoming "steroid injection" - I purchased a HICAS rear sway bar from a local 240sx owner, and a full set of Energy Suspension bushings. These took a whole weekend, but really transformed the handling - Felt like a brand new car!

With 2 weekends remaining, and no projects on the agenda, I got a phone call from a buddy in Florida - "Dude, you GOTTA see these wheels I have for sale!" I should have just hung up on him.

Seems an R32 GTR had been brought into port in Florida (in pieces) for one of his customers (he "assembles" Skylines). The customer took one look at the wheels and said, "Get those OFF my car." So, he took them off, threw on a set of S14 SE wheels, and the customer (with more money than brains), was satisfied.

He sends me a picture of the most beautiful set of wheels I've ever seen. A set of 1988 JDM Work Equips, true 3-piece, black centers, with a polished lip. A little drift-scuffed, in need of some polishing, but great sizes (17x8 +35 and 17x9 +32) and at the right price. Still wrapped in Falken Azenis with tread left. Hmmm, I'm gonna need new tires soon anyway - May as well upgrade while I'm at it, right? Sold.

NOTE: Several people have said, "Those aren't Equips." Well, they are, and several phone calls back and forth to the manufacturer confirmed it - Work changes designs on occasion, but keeps the same name - The newer Equips have a straight spoke design and a stepped lip, but the old models (mid-to-late 80's) were like this. Kinda look like Professors, but again, without the stepped lip. I prefer the flat lip, and these wheels make me smile every time I look at them. Best purchase I made for the car.

My wheels arrive a couple days later. Ever have one of those "Duh" moments, where you feel like you have the IQ of a jackstand? Yeah, me too. Count the holes in these wheels, Genius. 5-lug. Your car is 4-lug.

Within an hour, I had dropped my entire tax return check on S14 front spindles, hubs, ball joints, spline-drive lugs and Nismo 60mm wheel studs. Nothing quite like switching to 5-lug out of sheer necessity, but fortunately I had another weekend to do the swap. Printed out the article off NICO (how convenient!) and the Vert got her 5-lug on.
  

With one week left before the turbo kit install, I had dropped by a local vendor's shop to pick up some t-bolt clamps (so I didn't have to use the cheap worm-drive hose clamps)... I had hooked him up with a couple customers lately, and he had a "present" for me: A 4.36 VLSD from an R32 GTS-T. How can you pass THAT up? Into the car it goes. I already had quite a bit of experience swapping differentials (the Q45 had gotten a 4.08 upgrade less than a year earlier), so the swap was gravy.


Driving her around that week, eagerly awaiting boost, I had a premonition that things would NOT go well. The 4.36 had pepped up the acceleration, the handling was superb, the engine was strong... Was I really doing the right thing? Too late to turn back now - It's time to compress some air.

The turbo kit arrives, and I get a crash-course in "how stuff works" the night before the install. I hadn't messed with a boosted car since the late 80's, playing with the old T-Type Buicks, and this was a whole new world.

Compression on the original KA was tested, and it was 168 across all four cylinders. The engine was obviously well-maintained (remember the earlier pics of the inside of the head?) At the time, the prevailing "wisdom" was that a stock KA would handle mild boost without flinching, and simple fuel management was sufficient to maintain adequate protection from detonation. A set of 370cc injectors was sourced from a fellow NICO member, and I finally had all the parts ready for the "Big Day".

We put the word out to the locals, and a full-blown "Tech Day" ensues. AZ240 are a great group of guys, and you couldn't ask for a better bunch of friends. Lots of pizza, lots of soda, lots of beer, and lots of fun....
       

The install seems to take forever, and I feel like I'm slowing the process down. I make myself useful and install the Walbro fuel pump and relocate the battery.
      
Saturday rolled into Sunday, and the local 240sx guys are troopers - They hang in, wanting to see the project through to completion. Intercooler gets mounted, piping is routed, manifold connected, downpipe and exhaust re-installed, gauges wired up... A swarm of activity all over the convertible.
       

Now, the plan for this setup was to run 5psi at first (via a Tial wastegate with a 5psi spring), and then step up to 8psi after everything was running smoothly. 8 psi on a KA is nothing to sneeze at, and should put it around 225 hp, right where I wanted to be. I sourced an SAFC-2, and it got wired in with the rest of the kit.
   

After 2 long days on the project, it was time to fire it up. She cranked over just like always, and settled into a low rumbling idle. The sound was a little different now, and you could sense the excitement as everyone wanted Project Vert to acclimate to her newest additions smoothly. Some adjustments here and there, a few vacuum leaks to chase down, check the plug gaps, check spark / fuel pressure, dial in some "safe" settings on the SAFC, and she rolled out into the street, prepared to "do the nasty".

Sadly, her newfound attitude was to be short-lived, as the boost gods were not smiling upon our endeavor. After a couple hours of light driving, gentle boosting, easing further and further into the glories of cold, compressed air, it was time to let the KA-T outta the bag.

Pulling away from a left turn, I gave her full-throttle. The turbo spooled nicely, the tail stepped out hard - I grabbed second, corrected, brought it around the other way, and let 2nd-gear wind out, the rear tires screaming and desperately trying to find their way out from under the car... Fishtailing wildly, grinning from ear to ear, rocketing away from traffic - THIS was what ALL that work was for!!!
*POP*
Nervous glances from driver to co-pilot. A knocking sound, keeping pace with engine speed. Mechanical, no doubt, and coming from the engine... She limps home, the disappointed locals (awaiting a "victory lap") instead shake their heads as she coasts into the driveway.

Exaltation, then failure. No doubt, it's been a fact of life since the internal combustion engine was invented. And it's always cruel. Project Vert would find herself sitting for a long time.

 
Next:  Part VII: A New Beginning
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:  03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

                    [post_title] => NICO Project 240sx - Part 6
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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...

After the exhaustion of building, fabricating, installing, tuning and testing had worn off, and the smoke had cleared, it was time to assess the situation.

Several weeks passed before I even had the courage to walk into the garage and look at my car. Self-doubt racks your mind after an unsuccessful modification - "Maybe I should have just left it stock."

Dust collected. Weeks turned to months. The locals were relentless: "Let's just open it up and see what went wrong." When I finally brought myself to opening up the block, we found the problem, and it was, as suspected, fairly terminal: A main bearing (#3) had "delaminated", under what appeared to be some pretty severe stress. It was simply shaved thin, and the #2 looked to have experienced the same trauma, but had also snapped in half (but remained in place).

Suspicions abounded - Something that was already wrong, but not presenting itself under normal use? Just the effect of adding boost to a tired old KA? Certainly not likely to be a detonation issue, or could it? Some I spoke with indicated that it could indeed be an effect of severe detonation, although we saw no evidence of that on either the plugs, pistons or combustion chamber.

At any rate, I went "back to the books" - rather, the forums - and took a long, healthy dose of my own advice: Read, read, read, READ. I devoured the KA and KA-T forums on NICO. I read the SR forums, since boost is boost. I read technical posts going back to 2004, and I re-read a lot of old articles on turbocharging and engine building that I had been saving in a binder for over a decade.

Just about that time, a mutual friend introduced me to a local guy who would change the direction of NICO's Project Vert, and who would become a great and lifelong friend.


Jason (rotorimp on the NICO boards) is a MSGT in the USAF here in Phoenix, and knows a thing or two about building motors. In fact, he's pretty damn adept at lots of fabrication-type work, from woodworking, to welding, to milling, to engine construction, to restoration, and everything in between. He's restored several VW's, Porsches, BMW's, a Jag, a couple Datsuns, and some oddball stuff.   NOTE: He's not a real good painter, but not everyone can be good at everything. (Don't tell him I said that.)

By this time, I'm thinking, "Maybe those guys are right - Maybe I should just pick up an SR and be done with it."

Anyhow, Jason starts in on me to build - REALLY build - this engine. I roll out to his shop and see some of his "projects in progress", and I'm hooked.

My mind is made up. Besides, why the heck would I want to give up half a liter of displacement?

Effort be damned, we're gonna build a bad-ass KA24DE-T.

I start collecting parts for the build, knowing it's going to be a long process. I plan out the budget, buying what's needed right away, and holding off on stuff that can wait until later in the process. First order of business is to set aside a location to do the work, and Jason's workshop fit the bill: A "dirty" area for teardown and fabrication, and a "clean" area for engine assembly and painting.

We completely disassembled the engine - every last bolt, nut, washer and screw was removed. Factory clamps were discarded, and any bad fasteners went in a bag - more on this later.


Parts were cleaned and set aside, in order of reassembly, for later use, and anything that looked suspect got circular-filed. This engine was to have NO weaknesses.

Based on local advice, I selected Duffee Machine Shop to do all the machine work on the engine. I advised them of the plan, and that I wanted this engine to withstand 500-hp, and be reliable as a new car. Duffee's staff went to work, boring the block .040 over, decking the block and head (minimally), smoothing the oil passages, removing some material in the intake ports, 5-angle valve job, micropolishing the crank, and balancing the entire rotating assembly. I spent a little more, knowing that the foundation was critical.

Upon receiving the block and head back from Duffee, we set about prepping it for assembly, and the excitement of seeing that block, naked and clean, gave me hope for what was to come.

Unfortunately, about this time, I was stricken with an ailment that would necessitate major emergency surgery, and would put me out of commission for nearly six weeks.

Not wanting the project to stall, I willed myself to make the trip out to the shop as soon as I was able, and there I sat each Saturday, all day long, prepping parts for assembly. We meticulously re-washed, masked and painted the entire block. All bolt holes were chased with a tap, and lubricant added to the machined surfaces immediately to prevent rust.
    

We had purchased a zinc-plating kit from Eastwood. So, unable to lift anything, doped up on pain meds, I sat in a lawn chair in the shop and cleaned / plated every fastener that was to go back on the car. The zinc plating kit leaves a hard, chalky coating on the hardware, which I then polished, a bolt at a time, to a high luster, and ran a tap on the threads of each one to ensure perfect assembly.

Remember those "bad" fasteners that found their way into a bag? All were replaced with appropriate graded fasteners. There would be NO detail left unnoticed. Through this process, even though it was exhausting, I found myself feeling better and better, and recovering faster than anyone had planned.

I had already placed an order for Carrillo forged rods, CP Racing forged 9.0:1 pistons, ARP studs, and Nissan OEM bearings, as well as a Toga high-volume oil pump (specially modified by Ivan at AMS for increased flow and pressure). Those items arrived just in time for the first phase of assembly. Jason went to work, measuring each component to ensure perfect balance. When one rod weighed in a tiny bit more than the other two, he brought it into spec. When the wrist pins mic'ed out with a tiny bit too much clearance, he sent them back for another set. Tolerances were measured fanatically, because as I was learning, details matter.


A specially-constructed crank scraper and windage tray were fabricated, in order to ensure that parasitic losses due to "roping" and windage of the oil would be eliminated, and that the oil would remain where it belonged: On the friction surfaces. Jason set about modifying these to ensure perfect fitment and a near-zero-tolerance interface with the new crank. Probably the only DOHC KA in existence with such goodies, but again, the details are critical. Anytime you can increase horsepower through reduction of drag, rotating mass, friction, windage, or heat, you increase reliability as well.

An oil cooler was sourced from an FD RX-7, and a thermostatic bypass was obtained from a fellow NICO member. One can never have too much protection, and this engine would have the best we could build.


By now, I was fully recovered from the first bout in the hospital, so it was time to go back in for Round Two. Again, this was a major one, and I was to be out for 6 weeks.  I couldn't wait to get back out in the garage, and I spent the days cleaning, polishing and painting parts in anticipation of reassembly. I located a Quest alternator from a local auto parts store (you're welcome for the KA alternator core!) and promptly disassembled / polished the housing.


Ground Zero contacted me around this time and stepped up to the plate with their first iteration of the Ground Zero turbo manifold, which is an incredibly beautiful piece of work. That barely made it out of the box, before it was headed to HPC for high-temp coating, along with the custom-fabricated downpipe (by Jason).

Soon thereafter, an another amazing goodie arrived in the mail: Xcessive Motorsports had heard about the build, and asked if I'd run their custom-made intake manifold. This thing was designed for high-boost applications, so it got port-matched and polished in preparation for assembly as well.

Now, of course, at the time, there was no kit available for an IACV, and we were very concerned about stalling (coming back down to idle). So, without hesitation, Jason lopped off the entire IACV assembly from the stock intake manifold, and welded it to the bottom of the Xcessive manifold.
   

A set of aluminum billet underdrive SR20 pulleys was sourced from ebay, and were promptly bead-blasted to remove anodizing and modified for use with a KA engine. 

Of course, this necessitated custom belts, so some string was used to "mock up" belt length, and a few hours spent at AutoZone resulted in finding a motley collection of various belts - Kept the packaging for future reference, because these were an eclectic bunch of belts!
   

The most critical component of a proper turbocharged engine build is the fuel system, and several long talks with Ivan and Chris from AMS had convinced me that this was NOT the place to skimp. Thus far, I had saved some money by shopping around and in certain cases, buying used parts. We would NOT skimp on the fuel system.

I left the design to Ivan - My only caveats were: Needs to reliably support 500 hp, and it needs to be bulletproof and foolproof. Ivan and AMS came through, designing what is, in my opinion, the most gorgeous and functionally impressive part of the build:

The custom-machined Turbo240 fuel rail, Siemens 75-lb injectors, stainless braided lines, black AN fittings, and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with liquid-filled, black-faced gauge. I fabricated a polished stainless steel plate to mount it to, and it would take up residence in the space formerly occupied by the windshield wiper motor.

 
In order to keep the power steering reservoir away from the turbo and downpipe heat, I decided to relocate it to a "safer" area, and set to modifying the factory mounting plate. It now sits nestled snugly behind the left front wheelwell, out of the way of heat and allowing room for easy access to the wastegate, dump pipe and manifold.

Some 3" stainless bends and straight pipe from the local scrapyard became the coldpipe and intake pipe. The piping (both sides) from the old turbo kit were sacrificed to become the new hotpipe. Jason's extraordinary fabrication skills shone again, as he made countless pie cuts and test-fitted the pipes for fitment. Again, with an eye towards detail, we determined that a smaller hotpipe (2") to larger coldpipe (3") design would take advantage of the Joule-Thomson process, wherein free expansion causes a decrease in temperature. Cooler air = more power, right? Small details add up.

We had decided that the hotpipe and cold pipe would be one-piece units, so as to minimize the potential for leaks, and that goal was realized with the smoothest, most factory-looking turbo plumbing you'll ever see. The intake pipe leads straight to the MAF (behind the driver's side headlight) and the filter mounts just below the engine bay, in a high-pressure, cool air area behind the left bumper vent. Jason welded in a strategically-angled recirculation port that would mate up to the blow-off valve port.

Hours of polishing, and BAM! Instantly functional blang. 

Silicone couplers (red, of course) were sourced from a NICO sponsor, and stainless t-bolt clamps were polished, then installed, for that extra measure of reliability and bling.
 

No matter what you do, the compressor housing of a turbo never looks good, and this project was about displaying full attention to detail in every way. I remembered the cool heat shields from the Buick Grand Nationals, and wanted one for Project Vert. I was dismayed by the ridiculous cost, so I designed my own. A chunk of 5" stainless food tube from a local scrapyard was slit down one side, stretched, sliced, and fitted to make the shield. A cardboard template off the turbo housing was transferred onto stainless, and Jason went to work welding the seam - it turned out exactly as I had envisioned, and cost $3 to make. 

Finally, the day came to drop in the freshly-built engine. While there was still a TON of design, fabrication, assembly, and construction to do, Project Vert was taking shape... Jason and I spent countless hours discussing possibilities for the next step, often disagreeing, but always working things through to a logical conclusion. We'd often talk by phone between Saturdays in the shop, and the discussions always started the same: "Dude, I was thinking - What if we....".

This is how cars - and friendships - are forged.

At the very beginning, I said, "I want to build the BADDEST 240sx convertible in the world."  No shortcuts.

Limited only by the constraints of a pre-determined budget, everything was done towards that end.

Through it all, Project Vert was SPEAKING to us. She was letting us know that our efforts would not be in vain this time.
Next:Part VIII: Unleashed
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:  03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...
In the last installment, we left off with the engine installation of Project Vert nearly complete.

Another modification done was the relocation all of the underhood wiring, so as to be "invisible" upon inspection. The two large fuse boxes under the hood were disassembled and re-routed to beneath the engine bay (one underneath the spot formerly occupied by the battery, and the other in the same location on the opposite side). While tedious, confusing, stressful and time-consuming, it allowed for easier access to all the important parts, and cleaned up the look of the engine bay nicely.

The engine harness was routed so as to be nearly invisible as well, with the injector harness running beneath the plenum and secured by rubber wire looms. The MAF and coil harness were re-routed to the opposite side of the engine bay, via the cowl (where the wiper assembly used to be), and down through the driver's side fender. While under the cowl, I relocated the alarm and reinforced the backside of the firewall with two metal plates, in anticipation of the triangulated strut tower brace.

Also during this stage, I sourced an MSD ignition and coil and wired it up. Jason fabricated a cool custom stainless mounting plate for the MSD ignition, and the coil was mounted close to the distributor. Some Nology wires from Sport Compact Only finished off the ignition system.

During the build, I was studying up on engine management options. There were a dizzying array of options, but almost all of them had some drawback. Price, functionality, reliability... I simply wanted the ECU to behave like a stock ECU would, had the factory decided to build the KA with 75-lb injectors, a Z32 MAFS, and 15 psi of boost.

The BikiROM tuned ECU seemed to be a logical choice, and one was sourced immediately. This would be the heart of Project Vert, and would protect the time and money investment we'd assembled.


Fortunately, I have two very good friends, local drift heroes George and Champa, who were very familiar with the BikiROM system. A USB data cable was routed from the ECU into the glove box for easy tuning from the passenger seat.

So, there we had it, a fully assembled, built KA-T, sitting in the engine bay, ready to rock and awaiting that first turn of the key. All connections were triple-checked, fluids checked, fire extinguisher at the ready...  One turn, one running engine. Just like that. Holy crap. It couldn't be that easy. I shut it off.

Cranked it over again - fired immediately. Wow.

One more time, to make sure everything was getting oiled, and she settled into a smooth, angry idle... Pure music.

We allowed it to run for about 3 minutes, then did the first oil change into a clean container with a fine paper paint strainer. No chunks, no metal, just the pearlescent glow of otherwise clean oil from a freshly-built motor.

Next oil change was done after letting her run for 30 minutes, while we monitored the gauges and timing. Fluids were holding steady, oil pressure good (a little high, but that's how we designed it), temps perfect, and no weird smells (other than the initial "burn-off" of assembly oils and lubricants on the engine).

It was time to let her see the light of day in N/A form, so Project Vert was rolled out of the garage she had occupied for six months. Driving around, prior to all the final "tweaks", it was apparent that all the hard work had paid off. With a wide-open wastegate, she was running naturally-aspirated, and it was pretty evident that this engine (even without boost) was solid. It felt a lot like an SR on stock boost, and revved a lot more freely than any stock KA.


Tuning, with George and Champa manning the laptop, was a lot easier than I anticipated, and a good "street tune" was aquired on the streets of rural Surprise, AZ. Rev limiter was set at 5K rpm for break-in purposes, and the maps were set for overly rich operation under load, for safety's sake. Base timing was set at 15 degrees, in order to keep things under control in case of bad fuel or a boost leak causing a lean condition. Lastly, the 5-lb wastegate spring was installed, to keep from going nuts on the boost (just yet).

The electric fans looked "busy" and cluttered, so I designed a "shroud" to conceal them. The fans we were using don't require shrouding, so this was primarily for aesthetics (and to keep tools and fingers out of the fans). Jason welded up the shroud in some scrap stainless, and it made a perfect spot to represent Ground Zero (who contributed the gorgeous turbo manifold seen earlier).

Having long since tossed the old, crunchy OEM overflow container, I pondered the idea of buying an aftermarket "blinged-out" one... But nothing's cooler than brand new, OEM Nissan functionality, so Everything Nissan got my order for a new OEM radiator overflow container.

A used Greddy turbo timer was sourced for $30 and installed in the console lid. I made a stainless bracket which holds the timer securely under the lid, so it's all but invisible (but allows for easy adjustments by simply opening the console lid).

With the engine tuned, the wiring complete, and nothing to do but put some break-in miles on it, it was time to turn attention to the aesthetic aspects of the car. I had in mind an idea of how I wanted the car to look once complete, and the varied influences were slowly coming together.

I liked the "drift-style" appearance of the black GP Sports hatch (the one in all their ads), but I also wanted a clean, uncluttered "old-school" look. I also wanted to incorporate some musclecar design cues with staggered tire sizing and a raked stance, and I had a lot of hot rod touches (Foose-style) I wanted to include as well.

I knew this would NOT be a car that everyone would like, or find attractive.

It'd be too "staggered" for the drift crowd, too low-slung for the track fans, too functional for the VIP lovers, and too "Americanized" to please the JDM fanboys.

The first hurdle to overcome was finding a hood that would fit over the top-mount turbo, and, as I came to find, the throttle body. The Xcessive intake plenum placed the throttle body about an inch above the hood bracing, so that the hood came nowhere near closed.

I'd taken the saw and grinder to this car before, no reason to stop now.

I cut on the hood bracing for the better part of a day - test-fitting, cutting, grinding. A 280ZX Turbo NACA-style hood scoop was frenched into the hood just in front of the turbo, primarily for clearance (but also because it looked kick-ass).
  

Regardless, no matter how much cutting I did, this stock hood wasn't gonna fit. I abandoned the hood and resolved to finish the rest of the body, while I tried to figure out what to do next.

An Origin Labs Stylish body kit (180sx front and sides, Silvia rear) was bought from Intense. A couple days of test-fitting, modifying, sanding, re-fitting, and drilling (thanks to Dan 240sx2nr95 for the help), and it was ready to paint and hang.


Mixing and shooting the paint wasn't as hard as I'd anticipated, and buying the GOOD paint and prep materials made all the difference. We laid the Nissan Super Black paint on good and thick, because I knew any scratch or nick would show as white on the FRP body kit. In fact, I rattlecanned the entire inside of each piece with some cheap flat black, just in case.

With the new rear bumper mounted, the exhaust tips were now nearly a foot too far behind the bodywork, so more chopping and welding was in order. Jason's fabrication skills shone through again, as we struggled to align the muffler and tips *just* right in all three dimensions.

During the bodykit prep, I was thinking hard about the hood and how I wanted it to look. I really, really wanted to design my own hood - A fiberglass model, with a cowl-induction scoop rising up about 3" on the rear edge. Very musclecar style, but functional as well - I'd put gauges in the cowl, and it'd also serve to draw hot air out of the engine bay.

Unfortunately, no one makes such a hood, and until I make my own, I'd have to settle for someone else's (inferior) idea of what looks good. I'd had a Seibon OEM carbon-fiber hood before, and it was really nice. But an OEM hood wouldn't fit, and the Seibon "scoop" hood had two vents, which I disliked.

Searching our sponsor sites, I ran across a VIS carbon-fiber hood with a single, elegant vent - not too "ricey", but aggressive enough to catch attention. I had heard that VIS hoods were poorly constructed, but I needed a hood. I had Intense order one in, and when it arrived, I bought it on sight - it had beautiful weave, great construction, and was finished very professionally - I'd never knock a VIS product again, this hood is beautiful.

This damn engine still sat an inch too high. This means war.

I ordered a set of Nismo CA18 mounts, after hearing that they're somewhat shorter. Wrong. In fact, they're identical to KA mounts.

Hockey pucks? Too ghetto. Solid aluminum mounts? Too rough.

Necessity being the mother of invention, and at the encouragement of Jason, I made my own. Here's the article: DIY motor mounts

With the motor settled deep in its cradle, handling was MUCH improved. You'd never think that dropping 500 lbs. an inch and a half lower in the frame would make much difference, but according to a reliable source, it's akin to widening the track several inches.

The headlights were a modification I struggled with for quite some time. I wanted something "different", something unique, but something that flowed well with the car. This was the ONE area of modifications I think I might have done with the "car show crowd" in mind.... I love the look of a sleepy-eyed S13, and had planned to permanently mod my pop-ups to "stay sleepy".


A year earlier, a NICO member had listed a set of C-Wings carbon fiber quad-projector headlight buckets for sale, and I snatched them up... There were only a few sets made (according to C-Wings only 5 or 6 sets were produced). This set was the original, as his car was used to design them. The finish was rough, and the fitment not perfect, but they were unique and cool.

Since the CF weave didn't match the hood, I opted to paint them Super Black to match the bodywork. I sourced some DOT-approved projector lamps from a wholesaler and fabricated bracketry out of some spare aluminum. They seem to attract a lot of attention, and they've grown on me - I kinda like them now.


While the bodywork paint was curing, I decided to refinish the calipers to match the new color scheme for the car. However, when I take something apart, I always want to put it back together BETTER than it was before, so I ordered up the SPL Big Brake Kit for the front. This uses the MONSTER 12.8" Brembo rotors from the 350Z Track Edition, and placed the calipers so close to the wheels, I could scarcely fit a business card between them. A little shaving of the caliper body solved that, and they were ready for paint.

Endura-Tech had approached me at the SEMA show in Las Vegas about assisting them with marketing a new line of coilovers for the S13, and they offered me a steep discount to run them on Project Vert.

While installing the coilovers, I had gotten a call from a local 240sx owner who was clearing out some of his old parts, and he had a set of authentic Do-Luck ladder braces from Japan for sale. Needless to say, I snatched these up, and installed them immediately. They do a great job of bracing the frame rails right under the flywheel and behind the fuel tank, and make the car feel even more solid and planted.

On a side note - There are those who believe the 240sx convertible is insufficiently stiff for racing or high-horsepower applications, they couldn't be more wrong.

Folks who have driven a Fox-body convertible or a GM F-body will believe that ALL convertibles exhibit cowl shake and frame flexion. It's simply not the case with this car. Several aftermarket parts you see available for drift and track use are nearly identical to the ASC-installed structural bracing seen on the convertible.

Fender braces tie the firewall and door hinge pillars to the strut towers. Floor bar (behind seats) tightens up the midsection. Bracing underneath the front footwells ties the frame together in front. A fully-boxed bulkhead ties the rear strut towers together on all three sides. Bracing behind the fuel cell ties the rearmost sections of the frame together.

Prior to adding any bracing, and to prove a point to some of the locals, we placed a jack under the left-front corner of the frame, and lifted it 6". Both doors still opened without binding, and depending on where we placed the jack, either the whole front or the whole side came up with it.

Similar results were attained on an S13 Coupe, but the 2 hatches we did this to didn't fare so well - Neither one was able to open the driver's door.

The debate will continue forever, but the bottom line is, the convertible chassis is well-braced and stout, in some cases more so than an unbraced hatch or coupe.

Anyway, while we were in Vegas for SEMA, I ran across a gauge pod in the DEFI booth that I *had* to have. It places 2 gauges above the steering wheel (looks like mouse ears), in perfect view. I placed my order right there at the show, and it was waiting for me when I got home.

Since I had already removed all the audio stuff (who needs tunes when you have boost?), I decided the center console should be simply smooth. Some plastic-weld, some Bondo, and a LOT of sanding, resulted in a smooth, straight center panel with nothing on it but some glossy Super Black paint to match the exterior.

An HLSD from an S15 Silvia replaced the 4.36 VLSD, as it was simply too steep for a boosted car. There's simply nothing better for street use, and it puts ALL the power to the ground without any extraneous drama or noise.

The most recent addition to Project Vert was completed last weekend, and that was the installation of an old-school Greddy Profec-B boost controller. Without any need for multiple settings, or a lot of adjustability, I was happy with the simplicity and functionality of the Greddy unit. Installation was a snap, and what an enormous difference it makes. Rather than bleeding off boost as the wastegate nears it's spring pressure threshold, it now holds boost until 15 psi is reached, then immediately pops open to prevent overboosting.

At present, Project Vert has nearly 2000 miles on the clock since she was completed. I'm still awaiting a full-blown tune on a dyno, but scheduling and work have conspired against me.

She's racked up a few kills already - She smacked around a C5 on the freeway from a 40mph roll (twice), a Subaru STi from a standing start up to 60, a BMW Z4 (whose driver came back for seconds and thirds), a supercharged EG hatch, a brand new is350, a really rude chump in a Boxster (cheap Porsches aren't impressive, buddy), and she even held her ground against a 750 Ninja from 60 to 100 (terrifying - don't think I'll be doing THAT again).

Thus far, the only thing that's pulled on her has been a 2007 Z06, and I expected that - But it won't happen again.

I can only imagine how she'll do once the rev limiter is bumped up, the timing is advanced, and the map is adjusted.
      

So, after two years of work, what does the future hold for Project Vert?

Future mods will likely include water / methanol injection on a Hobbs switch for use above 10-12 psi.

Body and paint work will likely occur somewhere in the next year or so, as her stock paint is starting to show its age - Plans include shaving the gas filler and antenna, and possibly some molded-in old-school flares.

Interior re-upholstery is probably due for this summer, and during that time, I'll be removing the top assembly, glass, hydraulic top mechanism, and all other unnecessary accouterments in an effort to bring the weight down another 200 lbs. At present, she weighs the same as a stock coupe...

This is a good opportunity to say "Thanks" to everyone who has been involved in this build.

My wife, for allowing me to disappear every Saturday into the garage...
My sons Hunter and Darian for helping out where they can...
The "Master Fabricator" Jason McCoy, who's become one of my best friends through this build...
My local buddies Adam, Champa, George, Effin' Dan, Jeremy, and anyone else who laid a hand on this car - You guys rock...
The NICO crew - Members who answered questions, gave advice, and encouraged me to finish this car.

Stay tuned for updates - For now, there's a '72 240Z restoration and a couple old Datsun Roadsters calling my name... They'll get similar articles, so check back for more.
Next:  Part IX: Update
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:  03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

                    [post_title] => NICO Project 240sx - Part 8
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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...
At last update, Project Vert was done and rolling, and looking clean. Reliable power, good handling, and head-turning looks are a great basis for any project car, and the Convertible has them in spades.

However, too much is never enough, and I wasn't satisfied with the NICOclub Project 240sx Convertible being just "one of the best" in the nation. No, this car deserves better - It needed to be "over the top" - Outlandish, outrageous, something that would just dominate any discussion of the "best-built S-chassis" chats that go on at meets, on forums, and wherever 240sx owners congregate. Something that would drop panties, cause accidents, and strike fear in the hearts of so-called "tuners" on the streets of the Phoenix metropolitan area.

The VQ35-powered S13 droptop built by Mickey (110octane) from Team Falken was the final straw, and was the catalyst for the decision to go even more radical with Project Vert.

So without further ado, welcome to Part IX of NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...

Rolling stock is probably the most important and obvious component of any tuner car build, and Project Vert was already well-situated with some old-school, super-rare, 1988 Work wheels. With the trend towards bigger, wider wheels, and the ever-increasing influence of Japanese VIP and EXE styles finding their way into the 240sx realm, it was an obvious choice to go with something flashy, outlandish, and eye-catching, while retaining the old-school flavor that Project 240sx is known for.

Several choices made their way onto the drawing board, and my intention was to lean towards something that would necessitate some body modifications, and something that would give people cause to say, "Oh my God, WTF is THAT?!?!" After careful evaluation of sizing and styles, and much consultation and input from NICOclub's resident "baller wheel" gurus, a suitable set of wheels was located in Japan.


Weds Kranze Cerberus II in gold-face with a polished lip, 18x9.5 +14 and 18x10.5 +14 were selected and test-fitted for clearance. The addition of a set of 20mm spacers created an ultra-wide track, offered sufficient caliper clearance, and made SURE that the only way to fit them was to do a lot of fender cutting.

The intention was always to forego the all-too-common "widebody" fenders and run something a little more old-school, so a set of PJ Bonifacio bolt-on flares was sourced from a NICO sponsor. The fasteners had to be an integral part of the finished product, and I searched high and low for just the right hardware. The guys at Ace Hardware welcomed me into the "bolt and nut showroom", and allowed me to select the perfect fasteners to give the right look and functionality. I settled on some stainless steel allen-head capped bolts with black rubber washers. Not cheap, but they'd give the exact appearance I was looking for - Something that would scream, "Bolt-on flares!" and provide some visual detail to the all-black beast.

No turning back now, time to break out the plasma cutter and start sacrificing her virgin bodywork to the God of Fitment.

An afternoon of test-fitting, marking, taping, prepping, and raising and lowering the car with the wheels installed was time well-spent. I could see how the wheels would fit throughout the range of suspension travel, and could set the flares properly to allow just enough clearance for hard driving, while keeping all of the tire inside the bodylines.


Four hours of cutting left Project Vert scarred and ragged, and the time to drill for the flares was upon us. Note: Installing flares is NOT for the faint of heart. FRP flares are fairly rigid, and don't follow the S13's body contours very well without some massaging. If I had it to do over again, I'd almost consider having some replicas made from urethane, for flexibility and ease of installation.

Tires were chosen with a few criteria in mind. While the "stretched" look is popular, a super-lightweight S-chassis with 400whp on tap is a poor candidate for a set of low-profile 235's on a 10.5" wheel, unless your intention is to drive around sideways all day. Fortunately, a 275/35/18 fits beautifully in the rear, is not too much taller than the OEM tire, and should theoretically provide almost enough traction to keep her planted under power - More on this later. 245/35/18's were selected for the front, and give a nice "raked" stance, without overpowering the fitment in front.

Once everything was bolted up, camber settings were adjusted. 2 degrees negative camber on all four corners seems to be optimal, and the newly-shaped fenders allowed another .5" of drop all the way around. Ground clearance is ridiculously minimal, especially with the engine dropped nearly an inch lower in the cradle.

Driving impressions are mixed. The 17" fitment certainly handled better, partly due to the larger sidewall and less unsprung weight. However, the slight negative impact on handling is negated by the car's impressive new look. Aftermarket tie rods will help, and have been ordered at this time. In addition, she'll be getting a set of SPL Parts rear upper control arms for increased accuracy in adjusting rear camber.

 
Next: Part X:Bagged Suspension Install
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I: Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:More Power
 	
 Part V:It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

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NICOclub's 240sx Convertible Project Car: "The Droptop From Hell"...
 

This project began like many others: Not a "project" at all.

Shortly after taking over operations of NICOclub, and having spent countless hours with the members of 240sx.org, I began to hear the inevitable question:


 
"So, why doesn't the owner of 240sx.org even OWN a 240?"
 


To be truthful, I'd simply never been a fan of the car before. Being an old musclecar fanatic, and having gone through high school in the late 80's, I remember the first 240sx's to roll out.  In fact, my girlfriend's mom bought a brand new one soon after my high school graduation... A pignose hatch, automatic, red, with all the goodies available at the time.  My early assessment: Pop-up headlights? How "Fiero" of them! Big glass hatch? Wow, throw some louvers on it and it'll be a 280Z. Single-cam 4-banger? Please. My carburetor had more displacement than that thing. No chrome? Pffft.

Fast-forward to a few years ago...

My first line of thinking was, "OK, if I HAVE to buy a 240sx, and learn all about it, I suppose it should be something unique. Something cool. Something that AT LEAST stands out from all the other 240sx's..."

My second line of thinking was, "How am I going to sell this idea to my wife?" We already owned a Q45 and a Pathfinder, and neither of us needed another car - much less a 2-seater!

So, during the course of my search, I ran across a couple convertibles for sale. Hmmmm.... Kinda unique, certainly not "dime-a-dozen"... The wife and I had always dreamed of restoring a '70 Corvette convertible but had been put off by the expense... This JUST might work!

I went and looked at a few for sale locally. My main criteria were: No body damage, and the interior must be intact.

Well, as any convertible lover knows, these two things just DON'T happen together.

The first one was white, and had the worst interior I'd ever seen. Looked like a couple pissed-off Rottweilers had been locked inside it for a week. The owner wants $2000 more than the car is worth - he says, "Well, we just had the A/C redone - that was $1000!" Ugh... Bye.

The second one was red. Well, OK, it was pink. Because Aztec Red + the Arizona sun + 10 years of parking outside = pink. And, contrary to the owner's "story", it had been hit. HARD. In the quarter panel. Nice repair, but I saw the damage after removing the trunk panels. Thanks for nothing. Jerk.

The third one was white. Geez, do they MAKE these damn cars in any other color? This one was owned by a frat boy at the U of A, and it looked like it was the "Official Keg Transporter". The rotting wet leaves in the floorboard left me thinking I'd wasted another Saturday. Sorry, no tuition for you, Abercrombie-Boy.

So, I kinda forgot about a 240 for a while. I'm having lunch one day, and a guy had left an AutoTrader behind on the table.

Eh, I flip through and see an ad (big picture) for a 240 convertible for sale... 120K miles, perfect paint, no interior damage, owned by a retired Navy Pilot... In Bakersfield, CA. No way I'm driving to CA just to be disappointed again.

But what if it IS "the one"? Dial the number. Talk to the owner. Nice guy, car sounds legit. He says it's black. Oooh, I like black, this is good. I tell him my tale of woe. He wants more than I want to spend... Just as I'm getting discouraged, he says, "If it's not NICER than I described, I'll pay for your trip." It just so happened we were going to CA on vacation in two weeks, so I told him to hold the car and sent a deposit.

Aside from some wear (to be expected on a car with 120K miles), the car was clean. No accidents, a couple little dings, some sheepskin seat covers (that had turned "cookie monster blue" from the sun), and faded carpet - Nothing I couldn't fix. The A/C blew ice cold, the motor ran strong, and the car rode nicely. Sold.
        
How she looked on Day One... Poor car had no clue what she was getting into....

 
Next:  Part II: What, Just Wheels?
 

View other segments:

 	
 Part I:  Finding the Perfect 240sx
 	
 Part II:  What, Just Wheels?
 	
 Part III:  Modifications just keep coming
 	
 Part IV:  More Power
 	
 Part V:  It's what's INSIDE that matters
 	
 Part VI:  Project Vert Gets POWER!
 	
 Part VII:  A New Beginning
 	
 Part VIII:  Unleashed!
 	
 Part IX:  12/10/2007 Update
 	
 Part X:  03/07/2009 Update - Bagged Suspension

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NICOclub’s 240sx Convertible Project Car: “The Droptop From Hell”… “I’m only gonna put wheels on it.” Yep. That’s how it starts. After owning over 20 vehicles, I’ve come to find that this means trouble. In fact, if you find yourself saying these words, you can bet you’ll be neck-deep in the car in question within […]