How to: Cheap 240SX Sway Bar End Link Upgrade!
BY: Dano
Our cars are old, so are the stock rubber bushings. Chances are your stock swaybar endlinks bushings are dried, cracked and rotting. Here’s a cheap solution, AND you can get all the parts from your local Autozone for under $30!
Tools and Supplies
-12mm box end wrench
-14mm box end wrench
-ratchet
-12mm socket (I used a 12mm ratcheting wrench)
-14mm socket
-Polyurethane bushings and new, beefy endlinks for the rear
For the front – Energy Suspension bushing kit part # 9.8105R
For the rear – Energy Suspension bushing kit part # 9.8120R
Let’s start with the rear:
Remove the 12mm nut on the top and bottom of the endlink.The middle of the endlink is a 12mm to keep the endlink from rotating, this is what the 12mm box end wrench is for, you can also use visegrips. Once the nuts are off, remove the cups and rubber bushings, tilt the swaybar up and remove the old endlinks. Discard them!
Now put one of the new bushings in the bushing seat on top of the lower control arm (LCA), put one of the new, included, cupped washers on top of the bushing and slide the endlink bolt through them. Do that for both sides.
Now you can assemble the rest of the endlinks that go in between the LCA and swaybar in this order: LCA / bushing / cupped washer / included hollow spacer / cupped washer / bushing / swaybar. Now comes the fun part, after you assembled that for both sides, it’s time to finish up.The new bushings are larger than the old compressed bushings so you’ll need some assistance. Put the floor jack under the sway bar and compress the bushing enough to get the bottom bushing, cupped washer and included locking nut on. Both the locking nut and bolt are 14mm, and air tools make this a breeze. Tighten the nut, go to the other side and repeat the process.
OK, now let’s do the front:
Use the 12mm to keep the endlink from turning and zip off the 14mm nut on the bottom, but be careful, you’re reusing this nut. Do that to both sides and remove the old bushings and cups.
Slide the new cupped washer over the end. If you have some rust buildup, use some sandpaper and sand it off.Slide on the new bushing and put the endlinks back in the lower control arm.
Now comes the fun part.Due to the size of the new bushings you’ve got to compress the top bushing to get the bottom bushing, cupped washer and nut on.I put the floor jack under the LCA and raised it a bit. My 24″ prybar wasn’t enough leverage to compress the top of the swaybar, but my 4′ jack handle was.Stick the handle under the frame and push down on the swaybar. Zip the bottom bushing, cupped washer and nut on, then repeat for the other side. You’re done!
Now put away your tools, wash up, and take it for a spin.If your swaybar mount bushings are stock, I recommend replacing them too. Since I have a base model, I added an OE rear sway bar a few years ago with new bushings and brackets.
ALSO, ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS WHEN WORKING UNDER A CAR.
Enjoy!
