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Maxima Rear Sway Bar Install

by 

"maxima-sway-bar-install"
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                    [post_content] => The following directions can be utilized in the installation of an Addco RSB onto a 5th Generation (2000-2003) Maxima. Installation onto a 4th generation (1995-1999) should be similar. It is recommended that two people perform the installation, but, one person could accomplish the task. Please view pictures with steps for additional detailed information.

Step 1. Using either a lift, car jacks or ramps, lift car for easy access. Do not rely on the factory tire jack nor a pneumatic jack. Make sure vehicle is secure prior to installation.
Step 2. Open packages that came with the Addco RSB and arrange parts. If the vehicle is a 5th generation Maxima, two new side side U-bolts are included with the kit since the origional U-Bolts will not fit the 5th generations trailing arms. You should have the following with the kit:
-4ea bushings (with hardware)
-2ea mid-section brackets (Large "U" brackets)
-2ea mid-section bushings
-2ea mid-section base plates
-2ea side U-Bolts (4ea if 5th gen kit)
-2ea side base plates (base plates with slots)
-8ea washers
-8ea locknuts
 
Step 3. Remove the bushings from their mounting hardware. Install the four bushings by sliding them onto the bar or by opening them via the slit in each and work them onto the bar. Two bushings should be on the back section (flat section up) and two should be near each end of the bar (flat section facing outward). Press the bushing hardware back onto the bushings.
Step 4. Under the vehicle, install the rear of the bar first. Hook a mid-section bracket over the axle. Slip a mid-section base plate onto the bracket and, holding up the RSB, slide the barcket through the bushing hardware. Use one washer and one locknut for each bolt. Position the bracket appx 4.5-5" in from the curve of the RSB on each side. Do not tighten at this time. Repeat for the other side.
Step 5. On each side, following similar steps as in step 4, install the side brackets onto the trailing arms. On 5th Gens, the U-Bolts should be placed behind the brake lines. Initially, install the brackets 1" in from the end of the bar.
Step 6. Tighten locknuts down to 25ft lbs of torque. If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten the locknuts until the bushing hardware bends into the base plates.
 
Step 7. Road test the vehicle.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 Adjusting Sway Bar: The Addco RSB may be adjusted to different rates by sliding the side bracket assembly further back on the bar. Sliding the assembly back increases the effect of the sway bar.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Problem
Fixed Clunks: If you having problems with clunks over large bumps, check your installation and make sure all hardware is secure and torqued appropriately. If this is not the problem, make sure the passenger side bracket on the axle is far enough in to avoid hitting the panhard bar. If this is the case, loosen and adjust the bracket further in to avoid the panhard bar. If this is not acceptable, you can grind down the corner of the braket to add additional clearance to avoid the bar mount.
The Problem:
The Fix:
Article by:audtatious
                    [post_title] => Maxima Rear Sway Bar Install
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            [post_content] => The following directions can be utilized in the installation of an Addco RSB onto a 5th Generation (2000-2003) Maxima. Installation onto a 4th generation (1995-1999) should be similar. It is recommended that two people perform the installation, but, one person could accomplish the task. Please view pictures with steps for additional detailed information.

Step 1. Using either a lift, car jacks or ramps, lift car for easy access. Do not rely on the factory tire jack nor a pneumatic jack. Make sure vehicle is secure prior to installation.
Step 2. Open packages that came with the Addco RSB and arrange parts. If the vehicle is a 5th generation Maxima, two new side side U-bolts are included with the kit since the origional U-Bolts will not fit the 5th generations trailing arms. You should have the following with the kit:
-4ea bushings (with hardware)
-2ea mid-section brackets (Large "U" brackets)
-2ea mid-section bushings
-2ea mid-section base plates
-2ea side U-Bolts (4ea if 5th gen kit)
-2ea side base plates (base plates with slots)
-8ea washers
-8ea locknuts
 
Step 3. Remove the bushings from their mounting hardware. Install the four bushings by sliding them onto the bar or by opening them via the slit in each and work them onto the bar. Two bushings should be on the back section (flat section up) and two should be near each end of the bar (flat section facing outward). Press the bushing hardware back onto the bushings.
Step 4. Under the vehicle, install the rear of the bar first. Hook a mid-section bracket over the axle. Slip a mid-section base plate onto the bracket and, holding up the RSB, slide the barcket through the bushing hardware. Use one washer and one locknut for each bolt. Position the bracket appx 4.5-5" in from the curve of the RSB on each side. Do not tighten at this time. Repeat for the other side.
Step 5. On each side, following similar steps as in step 4, install the side brackets onto the trailing arms. On 5th Gens, the U-Bolts should be placed behind the brake lines. Initially, install the brackets 1" in from the end of the bar.
Step 6. Tighten locknuts down to 25ft lbs of torque. If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten the locknuts until the bushing hardware bends into the base plates.
 
Step 7. Road test the vehicle.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 Adjusting Sway Bar: The Addco RSB may be adjusted to different rates by sliding the side bracket assembly further back on the bar. Sliding the assembly back increases the effect of the sway bar.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Problem
Fixed Clunks: If you having problems with clunks over large bumps, check your installation and make sure all hardware is secure and torqued appropriately. If this is not the problem, make sure the passenger side bracket on the axle is far enough in to avoid hitting the panhard bar. If this is the case, loosen and adjust the bracket further in to avoid the panhard bar. If this is not acceptable, you can grind down the corner of the braket to add additional clearance to avoid the bar mount.
The Problem:
The Fix:
Article by:audtatious
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The following directions can be utilized in the installation of an Addco RSB onto a 5th Generation (2000-2003) Maxima. Installation onto a 4th generation (1995-1999) should be similar. It is recommended that two people perform the installation, but, one person could accomplish the task. Please view pictures with steps for additional detailed information. Step 1. […]

Altima Coupe Racingline Rear Endlinks Install

by 

"altima-coupe-racingline-rear-endlinks-install"
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                    [post_content] => You need
- TWO 2-ton jackstands
- ONE jack from the trunk
- ONE ratchet with a 17mm socket
- ONE 17mm wrench
- ONE 19mm wrench OR locking pliers (I used the locking pliers)
first you are going to need to jack the car up.
Jacking points:
You take your cheapo jack from the trunk of the car underneath floor carpeting and at the left of the tire.
you take the TWO pieces, the arm and the jack, and you assemble them.
now you jack the car up! YAY!
In the process of jacking the car up
you put your jackstand while the car is still on the jack and then you lower
back the car on the jackstand.
Repeat for the other side
YOU NEED TO HAVE BOTH SIDES JACKED UP TO UNLOAD PRESSURE ON THE SWAY BAR!
Ok, now that the car is jacked up here is what you can see from behind it underneath:
we can see the endlink
the other side (front) of the endlink:
Now the fun part begins, take your 19mm wrench OR locking pliers to hold the endlink-side part of the endlink bolt in place so you can unscrew the nut in the other end with the 17mm RATCHET or with a 5/8 wrench (much better with the ratchet).
You repeat the same thing with the upper part of the endlink (assuming you did the bottom first). Remove the endlink after you unscrew the bottom and upper nuts. Don't worry nothing will fall of or come down on you.
here they are side to side
Now its the easy part. You take the endlink and you unscrew the two nuts in the bottom and the top + the metal O-ring
and then you put it in the OEM endlink's place
take your 17mm wrench to hold the endlink-side part of the endlink's bolt in place and then
screw the nut in the other end with the 17mm ratchet. Screw it until you can't no more.
The rubber bushings will be completely squished, thats normal.
Now add the second nut for extra safety measures.
repeat for the bottom and your done with that endlink. 
repeat the exact same procedure for the other side of the car
Tutorial by mcheddadi

                    [post_title] => Altima Coupe Racingline Rear Endlinks Install
                    [post_excerpt] => 
                    [post_status] => publish
                    [comment_status] => open
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                    [post_name] => altima-coupe-racingline-rear-endlinks-install
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                    [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:48:49
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            [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
            [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
            [post_content] => You need
- TWO 2-ton jackstands
- ONE jack from the trunk
- ONE ratchet with a 17mm socket
- ONE 17mm wrench
- ONE 19mm wrench OR locking pliers (I used the locking pliers)
first you are going to need to jack the car up.
Jacking points:
You take your cheapo jack from the trunk of the car underneath floor carpeting and at the left of the tire.
you take the TWO pieces, the arm and the jack, and you assemble them.
now you jack the car up! YAY!
In the process of jacking the car up
you put your jackstand while the car is still on the jack and then you lower
back the car on the jackstand.
Repeat for the other side
YOU NEED TO HAVE BOTH SIDES JACKED UP TO UNLOAD PRESSURE ON THE SWAY BAR!
Ok, now that the car is jacked up here is what you can see from behind it underneath:
we can see the endlink
the other side (front) of the endlink:
Now the fun part begins, take your 19mm wrench OR locking pliers to hold the endlink-side part of the endlink bolt in place so you can unscrew the nut in the other end with the 17mm RATCHET or with a 5/8 wrench (much better with the ratchet).
You repeat the same thing with the upper part of the endlink (assuming you did the bottom first). Remove the endlink after you unscrew the bottom and upper nuts. Don't worry nothing will fall of or come down on you.
here they are side to side
Now its the easy part. You take the endlink and you unscrew the two nuts in the bottom and the top + the metal O-ring
and then you put it in the OEM endlink's place
take your 17mm wrench to hold the endlink-side part of the endlink's bolt in place and then
screw the nut in the other end with the 17mm ratchet. Screw it until you can't no more.
The rubber bushings will be completely squished, thats normal.
Now add the second nut for extra safety measures.
repeat for the bottom and your done with that endlink. 
repeat the exact same procedure for the other side of the car
Tutorial by mcheddadi

            [post_title] => Altima Coupe Racingline Rear Endlinks Install
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            [to_ping] => 
            [pinged] => 
            [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:48:49
            [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 03:48:49
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"

You need– TWO 2-ton jackstands– ONE jack from the trunk– ONE ratchet with a 17mm socket– ONE 17mm wrench– ONE 19mm wrench OR locking pliers (I used the locking pliers) first you are going to need to jack the car up. Jacking points: You take your cheapo jack from the trunk of the car underneath […]

Cheap 240sx Sway Bar Link Upgrade

by 

"cheap-sway-bar-link-upgrade-240sx"
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                    [post_content] => How to: Cheap 240SX Sway Bar End Link Upgrade!
BY: Dano

Our cars are old, so are the stock rubber bushings. Chances are your stock swaybar endlinks bushings are dried, cracked and rotting. Here's a cheap solution, AND you can get all the parts from your local Autozone for under $30! 

Tools and Supplies

-12mm box end wrench
-14mm box end wrench
-ratchet
-12mm socket (I used a 12mm ratcheting wrench)
-14mm socket
-Polyurethane bushings and new, beefy endlinks for the rear

For the front - Energy Suspension bushing kit part # 9.8105R
For the rear - Energy Suspension bushing kit part # 9.8120R

Let's start with the rear:

Remove the 12mm nut on the top and bottom of the endlink.The middle of the endlink is a 12mm to keep the endlink from rotating, this is what the 12mm box end wrench is for, you can also use visegrips. Once the nuts are off, remove the cups and rubber bushings, tilt the swaybar up and remove the old endlinks. Discard them!

Now put one of the new bushings in the bushing seat on top of the lower control arm (LCA), put one of the new, included, cupped washers on top of the bushing and slide the endlink bolt through them. Do that for both sides.

Now you can assemble the rest of the endlinks that go in between the LCA and swaybar in this order: LCA / bushing / cupped washer / included hollow spacer / cupped washer / bushing / swaybar.  Now comes the fun part, after you assembled that for both sides, it's time to finish up.The new bushings are larger than the old compressed bushings so you'll need some assistance.  Put the floor jack under the sway bar and compress the bushing enough to get the bottom bushing, cupped washer and included locking nut on.  Both the locking nut and bolt are 14mm, and air tools make this a breeze.  Tighten the nut, go to the other side and repeat the process.

OK, now let's do the front:

Use the 12mm to keep the endlink from turning and zip off the 14mm nut on the bottom, but be careful, you're reusing this nut. Do that to both sides and remove the old bushings and cups.

Slide the new cupped washer over the end.  If you have some rust buildup, use some sandpaper and sand it off.Slide on the new bushing and put the endlinks back in the lower control arm.

Now comes the fun part.Due to the size of the new bushings you've got to compress the top bushing to get the bottom bushing, cupped washer and nut on.I put the floor jack under the LCA and raised it a bit.  My 24" prybar wasn't enough leverage to compress the top of the swaybar, but my 4' jack handle was.Stick the handle under the frame and push down on the swaybar.  Zip the bottom bushing, cupped washer and nut on, then repeat for the other side. You're done!

Now put away your tools, wash up, and take it for a spin.If your swaybar mount bushings are stock, I recommend replacing them too. Since I have a base model, I added an OE rear sway bar a few years ago with new bushings and brackets.

ALSO, ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS WHEN WORKING UNDER A CAR.

Enjoy!



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            [post_content] => How to: Cheap 240SX Sway Bar End Link Upgrade!
BY: Dano

Our cars are old, so are the stock rubber bushings. Chances are your stock swaybar endlinks bushings are dried, cracked and rotting. Here's a cheap solution, AND you can get all the parts from your local Autozone for under $30! 

Tools and Supplies

-12mm box end wrench
-14mm box end wrench
-ratchet
-12mm socket (I used a 12mm ratcheting wrench)
-14mm socket
-Polyurethane bushings and new, beefy endlinks for the rear

For the front - Energy Suspension bushing kit part # 9.8105R
For the rear - Energy Suspension bushing kit part # 9.8120R

Let's start with the rear:

Remove the 12mm nut on the top and bottom of the endlink.The middle of the endlink is a 12mm to keep the endlink from rotating, this is what the 12mm box end wrench is for, you can also use visegrips. Once the nuts are off, remove the cups and rubber bushings, tilt the swaybar up and remove the old endlinks. Discard them!

Now put one of the new bushings in the bushing seat on top of the lower control arm (LCA), put one of the new, included, cupped washers on top of the bushing and slide the endlink bolt through them. Do that for both sides.

Now you can assemble the rest of the endlinks that go in between the LCA and swaybar in this order: LCA / bushing / cupped washer / included hollow spacer / cupped washer / bushing / swaybar.  Now comes the fun part, after you assembled that for both sides, it's time to finish up.The new bushings are larger than the old compressed bushings so you'll need some assistance.  Put the floor jack under the sway bar and compress the bushing enough to get the bottom bushing, cupped washer and included locking nut on.  Both the locking nut and bolt are 14mm, and air tools make this a breeze.  Tighten the nut, go to the other side and repeat the process.

OK, now let's do the front:

Use the 12mm to keep the endlink from turning and zip off the 14mm nut on the bottom, but be careful, you're reusing this nut. Do that to both sides and remove the old bushings and cups.

Slide the new cupped washer over the end.  If you have some rust buildup, use some sandpaper and sand it off.Slide on the new bushing and put the endlinks back in the lower control arm.

Now comes the fun part.Due to the size of the new bushings you've got to compress the top bushing to get the bottom bushing, cupped washer and nut on.I put the floor jack under the LCA and raised it a bit.  My 24" prybar wasn't enough leverage to compress the top of the swaybar, but my 4' jack handle was.Stick the handle under the frame and push down on the swaybar.  Zip the bottom bushing, cupped washer and nut on, then repeat for the other side. You're done!

Now put away your tools, wash up, and take it for a spin.If your swaybar mount bushings are stock, I recommend replacing them too. Since I have a base model, I added an OE rear sway bar a few years ago with new bushings and brackets.

ALSO, ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS WHEN WORKING UNDER A CAR.

Enjoy!



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How to: Cheap 240SX Sway Bar End Link Upgrade! BY: Dano Our cars are old, so are the stock rubber bushings. Chances are your stock swaybar endlinks bushings are dried, cracked and rotting. Here’s a cheap solution, AND you can get all the parts from your local Autozone for under $30! Tools and Supplies -12mm […]

Whiteline Flatout Anchor Locks: Taking the Sway Out of Your Sway Bar

by 

"whiteline-flatout-anchor-locks-taking-the-sway-out-of-your-sway-bar"
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                    [post_content] => Whiteline Flatout Sway Bar Anchor Locks Installation
by Rev D21

Kit Info: Whiteline Flatout Part Number KLL120 for 19-20mm thick sway bars
Test Subject: 1995 Nissan 2WD D21 Hardbody with Hellwig 7531 Rear Sway Bar

Installation Time: 15 Minutes (Including Setup Time)

Difficulty: Easy

Whiteline Flatout makes anchor locks to help cut  down on side to side movement of sway bars during hard cornering. I  read a blurb about these locks in  a recent issue of Grassroots Motorsports magazine and thought I would give them a try. The locks work by attaching to the side of each bar mount. The locks  still allow bar twist but limits it from side to side movement during turns. I started by posting a want ad in the NICO approved vendors forum and within minutes I received a reply from RED DET from Tunerz Store. Capitalism ensued and 3 days later I had my anchor locks dropped off by UPS.

Packaging



Contents (Includes Stainless Hardware Too!!)



Installation

At first I thought I would install the locks on the inside of the  bushing mount but since my rear sway bar is not perfectly symmetrical I found it wasn't seated correctly on the passenger side.

Bar Mount Before Install



Bar Mount After Install (As you can see in this pic it's not lining up with the bushing face to my liking.)



Redux

I decided to place the locks on the outside of the bar mounts which  allowed them to seat better. The concept still applies with the locks on the  outside of the mounts and fitment was flush.

Left Side



Right Side



Complete Installed Look



Do not over tighten these!!! The instructions say they may need to be  slightly adjusted after a short test drive.  I have not driven the truck  since I installed these because a bad storm just passed through here but be sure to look for review updates in the Nissan Truck Forum soon. I  don't expect major handling changes, just some peace of mind that my rear sway bar is where it is supposed to be at all times.

Thanks for looking!

Sources:
Tunerz Store
(RED DET: NICO Moderator and Approved Vendor)
http://www.tunerzstore.com/

Questions or comments?  Share them in the Nissan Trucks Forum!




Contents (Includes Stainless Hardware Too!!)



Installation

At first I thought I would install the locks on the inside of the  bushing mount but since my rear sway bar is not perfectly symmetrical I found it wasn't seated correctly on the passenger side.

Bar Mount Before Install



Bar Mount After Install (As you can see in this pic it's not lining up with the bushing face to my liking.)



Redux

I decided to place the locks on the outside of the bar mounts which  allowed them to seat better. The concept still applies with the locks on the  outside of the mounts and fitment was flush.

Left Side



Right Side



Complete Installed Look



Do not over tighten these!!! The instructions say they may need to be  slightly adjusted after a short test drive.  I have not driven the truck  since I installed these because a bad storm just passed through here but be sure to look for review updates in the Nissan Truck Forum soon. I  don't expect major handling changes, just some peace of mind that my rear sway bar is where it is supposed to be at all times.

Thanks for looking!

Sources:
Tunerz Store
(RED DET: NICO Moderator and Approved Vendor)
http://www.tunerzstore.com/

Questions or comments?  Share them in the Nissan Trucks Forum!


Whiteline Flatout Sway Bar Anchor Locks Installation by Rev D21 Kit Info: Whiteline Flatout Part Number KLL120 for 19-20mm thick sway bars Test Subject: 1995 Nissan 2WD D21 Hardbody with Hellwig 7531 Rear Sway Bar Installation Time: 15 Minutes (Including Setup Time) Difficulty: Easy Whiteline Flatout makes anchor locks to help cut down on side […]