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Car Frame Rail Replacement

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Applied Vehicle(s): All Nissan/Infiniti vehicles
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  5 hours
Written By: gmac708




Estimated Total Cost: $95.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   







I recently replace the floors in my 1970 240Z. I used the Zedd findings floor panels and the Baddog parts frame rails. Both are quality manufacturers but they do not supply the finished product. It’s more like they supply the raw materials, and you supply the “fab” skills.
I hope posting these pictures and comments might answer your questions and help you get a better idea of what needs to be done (and what the heck, it can't hurt to have a few more pictures) . I am lucky enough to start out with a pretty solid frame. I think you could easily add extra length and bracing to the Bad Dog frames, they are pretty heavy duty.

I had just completed the passenger side and we are picking up where I moved over to the drivers side.



As you can see, the factory frame rails extend back only part way back.



They do not extend all the way back to the rear suspension support frame.



I chose to replace the factory rails with the beefier and longer aftermarket ones because they are commonly used in high HP V8 swapped Z’s, and Bad Dog seems to be the product of choice. They will end up connecting the front and back frame structure together.
The BD frames fit like a glove over the factory rails. I chose to not replace the original, but just remove the damaged areas and cover with only the BD rails.


Up front you can see the damaged area.


This sort of has an “S” bend and is pushed up in back. Not all that flat.



Looking from below, You can see that the frame tapers as well. I chose to leave as much of the original frame alone and only removed the bottom, damaged areas, and what was necessary to keep it flat.


Cut just aft of the floor seam.



Leaving this.





Now… to make the bottom flat.





Support and hold new frame in place.



Here you can see where the frame tapers.




New frame extends to second mark.



I chose to remove the extra material.



Everything fitting well.



Now for the Back.



This took a lot of extra time to get to fit right.



Need to trim the length to match the front rail.



Make sure you measure everything over and over. Keep the rails parallel and flat. Take your time.




When everything looks perfect, It’s time to start welding! Start off by tacking around, using a criss-cross pattern. Do not stay in one place. Move around











It turned out great and I was very pleased with the floors and rails. I hope this helps to answer some of your questions and helps to motivate you to attempt this repair.
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Applied Vehicle(s): All Nissan/Infiniti vehicles
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  5 hours
Written By: gmac708




Estimated Total Cost: $95.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums   







I recently replace the floors in my 1970 240Z. I used the Zedd findings floor panels and the Baddog parts frame rails. Both are quality manufacturers but they do not supply the finished product. It’s more like they supply the raw materials, and you supply the “fab” skills.
I hope posting these pictures and comments might answer your questions and help you get a better idea of what needs to be done (and what the heck, it can't hurt to have a few more pictures) . I am lucky enough to start out with a pretty solid frame. I think you could easily add extra length and bracing to the Bad Dog frames, they are pretty heavy duty.

I had just completed the passenger side and we are picking up where I moved over to the drivers side.



As you can see, the factory frame rails extend back only part way back.



They do not extend all the way back to the rear suspension support frame.



I chose to replace the factory rails with the beefier and longer aftermarket ones because they are commonly used in high HP V8 swapped Z’s, and Bad Dog seems to be the product of choice. They will end up connecting the front and back frame structure together.
The BD frames fit like a glove over the factory rails. I chose to not replace the original, but just remove the damaged areas and cover with only the BD rails.


Up front you can see the damaged area.


This sort of has an “S” bend and is pushed up in back. Not all that flat.



Looking from below, You can see that the frame tapers as well. I chose to leave as much of the original frame alone and only removed the bottom, damaged areas, and what was necessary to keep it flat.


Cut just aft of the floor seam.



Leaving this.





Now… to make the bottom flat.





Support and hold new frame in place.



Here you can see where the frame tapers.




New frame extends to second mark.



I chose to remove the extra material.



Everything fitting well.



Now for the Back.



This took a lot of extra time to get to fit right.



Need to trim the length to match the front rail.



Make sure you measure everything over and over. Keep the rails parallel and flat. Take your time.




When everything looks perfect, It’s time to start welding! Start off by tacking around, using a criss-cross pattern. Do not stay in one place. Move around











It turned out great and I was very pleased with the floors and rails. I hope this helps to answer some of your questions and helps to motivate you to attempt this repair.
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Applied Vehicle(s): All Nissan/Infiniti vehicles Difficulty Rating: Estimated Labor Time: 5 hours Written By: gmac708 Estimated Total Cost: $95.00 Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub’s Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums I recently replace the floors in my 1970 240Z. I used the Zedd findings floor panels and the Baddog parts frame […]

Brake Pads (and Rotor) Replacement

by 

"brake-pads-and-rotor-replacement"
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Applied Vehicle(s): Infiniti I30, 4th Gen. Maxima
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  3 hours
Written By: loystock




Estimated Total Cost: $290.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Maxima Forum & I30 / I35 Forum   







Specification (and Pricing from IoS – infinitipartsUSA.com):

-Front Rotor: 26mm new/24mm minimum; Maximum Runout=0.07mm ($82.11 from IoS)
-Rear Rotor: 9mm new/8mm minimum; Maximum Runout=0.07mm ($69.89 from IoS)
-Front Brake Pads: 11mm new/2mm minimum ($61.33 from IoS)
-Rear Brake Pads: 10mm new/1.5mm minimum ($58.66 from IoS)

Tools and Materials Required
 -Tire wrench, jack and jack stand. Please use jack stand for your own safety.
-Breaker bar (1/2” drive)
-Ratchet Drive (1/2” or 3/8”)
-Metric sockets (14mm for pin bolts, 21mm for lug nuts; 24mm for torque member bolts if rotor needs removal/replacement)
-Torque wrench (32 ft-lbs for pin bolt, 72-87 ft-lbs for lug nuts)
-C-clamp (for pushing the FRONT piston). DO NOT USE C-CLAMP ON REAR PISTON!!!
-Disc Brake Piston Tool/Adapter (for rotating REAR piston, available from Autozone/Napa @ $12)
-wire sufficient to support the brake cylinder body
-optional steel brush to clean lug nuts and hub bolts
-optional disc brake cleaner
-DOT 3l Brake Fluid (32 oz), container and vinyl tube for optional Bleeding Brake System
-PBC grease or CRC Disc Brake Quiet
-wipes/rugs

CAUTION: WITH THE BRAKE CYLINDER REMOVED, DO NOT DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL BECAUSE THE PISTON WILL POP OUT. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE PISTON BOOT OR GET OIL ON ROTOR.

REMOVAL OF BRAKE PADS (AND ROTOR, IF APPLICABLE)
 1. Remove tires from vehicle with power tool (or tire wrench or breaker bar with 21mm socket).
2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap.
Note: The brake fluid reservoir may overflow when the brake pistons are pushed in during installation.
3a. FRONT PADS: 1) Remove lower sliding pin bolt (14mm socket). 2) Raise cylinder body (secure with wire, if possible)
3b REAR PADS: 1) Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolt and lock spring. 2) Release parking brake control lever, then disconnect cable from the caliper 3) Remove upper pin bolt. Lower the cylinder body.
4. Remove the pads, pad retainers, shims, and shim cover from torque member (Option: clean retainer and shims with brake pad cleaner).
Note: If rotor needs to be removed – First remove both pin bolts and hang cylinder body. Then remove both Torque Member mounting bolts (breaker bar may be required with 24mm socket) and pull out the torque member. Pull out the rotor (have them turned or replaced)
INSPECTION: Inspect brake component for any damage – repair/replace as required. It is recommended to check rotor runout with dial indicator (secure rotor with lug nuts). If runout is > 0.07mm (0.0028”), the rotor needs to be turned.

INSTALLATION
 1. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease or equivalent (or CRC Disc Brake Quiet) to between shim cover and shim. Install inner shim, inner shim cover to inner pad, and outer shim, outer shim cover to outer pad.
Note: If the rotor has been removed, install it then install the torque member.
2. Install pad retainers and pads to torque member.
3a. FRONT PADS Press in piston until pads can be installed (use C-clamp and old pad to push piston flush with the cylinder body), and then install cylinder body to torque member.
 CAUTION: A DISC BRAKE PISTON TOOL, IS REQUIRED TO ROTATE THE REAR PISTON INWARDS. DO NOT USE A C-CLAMP OR PUSH THE PISTON INWARDS AS THE PISTON WILL BE DAMAGED. A LONG NOSE PLIERS MAY BE USED, BUT MAY BE DIFFICULT TO TURN THE PISTON.
 3b. REAR PADS. 1) Use the Disk Brake Piston Tool and turn piston CW until it is flush with the cylinder body. 2) Ensure the concave portions of the piston are oriented side-to-side In relation to the cylinder housing. Align the piston’s concave to the brake pad’s convex, then install the cylinder body to the torque member.
 CAUTION: In the case of replacing a pad with new one, check brake fluid level in the reservoir tank because brake fluid returns to master cylinder reservoir tank when pressing piston in. The reservoir may overflow. BRAKE FLUID CAN STRIP CAR PAINT.
 4. Install appropriate upper/lower sliding pin bolt and tighten to the specified torque.
5. Verify Pad Wear Sensor: The upper pad retainer is built so the pad returns to its original position. Be careful to install the pad return level securely (inside) to the pad wear sensor.
6. REAR BRAKE ONLY: Install parking brake cable mounting bolt and lock spring.
OPTION: Bleed Brake System in sequence- rear right, front left, rear left and front right. Ensure brake reservoir level does not go below minimum or air will enter the system (spongy brake)
7. Install tires to vehicle (Torque lug nuts to 72-87 ft-lbs. Over-torquing may warp the rotor).
8. Perform brake burnishing.
 CAUTION: Whether brake burnishing is done on the street or highway, always ensure it is SAFE to do so.
 -Nissan recommends braking from 31 MPH (50KPH) to full stop within 3-5 seconds with a cooling period of 1 minute. Repeat braking 10 times or more.
-I personally do braking from 60 MPH to 10 MPH (never a full stop which can cause hot spots) 10 times or more on an ‘empty’ highway (or mall parking lot).
                    [post_title] => Brake Pads (and Rotor) Replacement
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Applied Vehicle(s): Infiniti I30, 4th Gen. Maxima
Difficulty Rating: 




Estimated Labor Time:  3 hours
Written By: loystock




Estimated Total Cost: $290.00







Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Maxima Forum & I30 / I35 Forum   







Specification (and Pricing from IoS – infinitipartsUSA.com):

-Front Rotor: 26mm new/24mm minimum; Maximum Runout=0.07mm ($82.11 from IoS)
-Rear Rotor: 9mm new/8mm minimum; Maximum Runout=0.07mm ($69.89 from IoS)
-Front Brake Pads: 11mm new/2mm minimum ($61.33 from IoS)
-Rear Brake Pads: 10mm new/1.5mm minimum ($58.66 from IoS)

Tools and Materials Required
 -Tire wrench, jack and jack stand. Please use jack stand for your own safety.
-Breaker bar (1/2” drive)
-Ratchet Drive (1/2” or 3/8”)
-Metric sockets (14mm for pin bolts, 21mm for lug nuts; 24mm for torque member bolts if rotor needs removal/replacement)
-Torque wrench (32 ft-lbs for pin bolt, 72-87 ft-lbs for lug nuts)
-C-clamp (for pushing the FRONT piston). DO NOT USE C-CLAMP ON REAR PISTON!!!
-Disc Brake Piston Tool/Adapter (for rotating REAR piston, available from Autozone/Napa @ $12)
-wire sufficient to support the brake cylinder body
-optional steel brush to clean lug nuts and hub bolts
-optional disc brake cleaner
-DOT 3l Brake Fluid (32 oz), container and vinyl tube for optional Bleeding Brake System
-PBC grease or CRC Disc Brake Quiet
-wipes/rugs

CAUTION: WITH THE BRAKE CYLINDER REMOVED, DO NOT DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL BECAUSE THE PISTON WILL POP OUT. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE PISTON BOOT OR GET OIL ON ROTOR.

REMOVAL OF BRAKE PADS (AND ROTOR, IF APPLICABLE)
 1. Remove tires from vehicle with power tool (or tire wrench or breaker bar with 21mm socket).
2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap.
Note: The brake fluid reservoir may overflow when the brake pistons are pushed in during installation.
3a. FRONT PADS: 1) Remove lower sliding pin bolt (14mm socket). 2) Raise cylinder body (secure with wire, if possible)
3b REAR PADS: 1) Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolt and lock spring. 2) Release parking brake control lever, then disconnect cable from the caliper 3) Remove upper pin bolt. Lower the cylinder body.
4. Remove the pads, pad retainers, shims, and shim cover from torque member (Option: clean retainer and shims with brake pad cleaner).
Note: If rotor needs to be removed – First remove both pin bolts and hang cylinder body. Then remove both Torque Member mounting bolts (breaker bar may be required with 24mm socket) and pull out the torque member. Pull out the rotor (have them turned or replaced)
INSPECTION: Inspect brake component for any damage – repair/replace as required. It is recommended to check rotor runout with dial indicator (secure rotor with lug nuts). If runout is > 0.07mm (0.0028”), the rotor needs to be turned.

INSTALLATION
 1. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease or equivalent (or CRC Disc Brake Quiet) to between shim cover and shim. Install inner shim, inner shim cover to inner pad, and outer shim, outer shim cover to outer pad.
Note: If the rotor has been removed, install it then install the torque member.
2. Install pad retainers and pads to torque member.
3a. FRONT PADS Press in piston until pads can be installed (use C-clamp and old pad to push piston flush with the cylinder body), and then install cylinder body to torque member.
 CAUTION: A DISC BRAKE PISTON TOOL, IS REQUIRED TO ROTATE THE REAR PISTON INWARDS. DO NOT USE A C-CLAMP OR PUSH THE PISTON INWARDS AS THE PISTON WILL BE DAMAGED. A LONG NOSE PLIERS MAY BE USED, BUT MAY BE DIFFICULT TO TURN THE PISTON.
 3b. REAR PADS. 1) Use the Disk Brake Piston Tool and turn piston CW until it is flush with the cylinder body. 2) Ensure the concave portions of the piston are oriented side-to-side In relation to the cylinder housing. Align the piston’s concave to the brake pad’s convex, then install the cylinder body to the torque member.
 CAUTION: In the case of replacing a pad with new one, check brake fluid level in the reservoir tank because brake fluid returns to master cylinder reservoir tank when pressing piston in. The reservoir may overflow. BRAKE FLUID CAN STRIP CAR PAINT.
 4. Install appropriate upper/lower sliding pin bolt and tighten to the specified torque.
5. Verify Pad Wear Sensor: The upper pad retainer is built so the pad returns to its original position. Be careful to install the pad return level securely (inside) to the pad wear sensor.
6. REAR BRAKE ONLY: Install parking brake cable mounting bolt and lock spring.
OPTION: Bleed Brake System in sequence- rear right, front left, rear left and front right. Ensure brake reservoir level does not go below minimum or air will enter the system (spongy brake)
7. Install tires to vehicle (Torque lug nuts to 72-87 ft-lbs. Over-torquing may warp the rotor).
8. Perform brake burnishing.
 CAUTION: Whether brake burnishing is done on the street or highway, always ensure it is SAFE to do so.
 -Nissan recommends braking from 31 MPH (50KPH) to full stop within 3-5 seconds with a cooling period of 1 minute. Repeat braking 10 times or more.
-I personally do braking from 60 MPH to 10 MPH (never a full stop which can cause hot spots) 10 times or more on an ‘empty’ highway (or mall parking lot).
            [post_title] => Brake Pads (and Rotor) Replacement
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Applied Vehicle(s): Infiniti I30, 4th Gen. Maxima Difficulty Rating: Estimated Labor Time: 3 hours Written By: loystock Estimated Total Cost: $290.00 Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub’s Maxima Forum & I30 / I35 Forum Specification (and Pricing from IoS – infinitipartsUSA.com): -Front Rotor: 26mm new/24mm minimum; Maximum Runout=0.07mm ($82.11 from IoS) […]

Dome Light Replacement Procedure for Infiniti M-series

by 

"dome-light-replacement-procedure-m35-m37-m45-m"
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                    [post_content] => Here is a do it yourself step by step narrative for those of you who have had issues with the dome light bulbs. Most of the LEDs have the polarity wrong, and since these are not wedge bulbs, they cannot be simply turned around.

You will need to disassemble them, switch the wires to reverse the polarity, and reassemble the LEDS.

Everyone has a preference for the vendor/brand of bulbs, but I found some inexpensive SMD LED bulbs that work great!

You need a couple common tools:
- Tweezers or little alligator clip holders
- A small razor or pen knife
- Rosin core solder
- Soldering gun
- needle nose pliers



This is the bulb I used for the dome light:
first use the razor or knife to loosen the base from the LEDs. slide the knife between the base and the LED and gently cut them apart. Dont cut all the way through!!! BE GENTLE.



work the base away from the LEDs



You can either use a small solder vacuum to suck the solder out of the base, or you can just melt the solder and pull the top, and the wire, out of the melted solder.



There should be some sort of silicone, or glue holding it all together. cut/peel away the old silicone and expose the wires.
1. one wire will fit straight down through the hole in the bottom of the base
2. the other wire will be soldered to the inside wall of the base




Melt the solder on wire 2 and pull it away from the base. Switch the wires, and solder the other wire back onto the base into position 2.

Silicone around the bottom of the LEDs and slide it back into the base. The loose wire should slide straight down into the hole in the bottom of the base.

Hold the LED and the base together until the silicone dries.

One wire should be sticking up through the bottom of the base



Solder around the wire to fill in the hole and create a solid soldered base



The LED should fit perfectly into the socket, and your light should turn on! I recommend pulling the fuse from the box from the driver side under the dash before switching the bulbs.



Here are some pictures of the finished product! Enjoy!






Good luck!
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            [post_content] => Here is a do it yourself step by step narrative for those of you who have had issues with the dome light bulbs. Most of the LEDs have the polarity wrong, and since these are not wedge bulbs, they cannot be simply turned around.

You will need to disassemble them, switch the wires to reverse the polarity, and reassemble the LEDS.

Everyone has a preference for the vendor/brand of bulbs, but I found some inexpensive SMD LED bulbs that work great!

You need a couple common tools:
- Tweezers or little alligator clip holders
- A small razor or pen knife
- Rosin core solder
- Soldering gun
- needle nose pliers



This is the bulb I used for the dome light:
first use the razor or knife to loosen the base from the LEDs. slide the knife between the base and the LED and gently cut them apart. Dont cut all the way through!!! BE GENTLE.



work the base away from the LEDs



You can either use a small solder vacuum to suck the solder out of the base, or you can just melt the solder and pull the top, and the wire, out of the melted solder.



There should be some sort of silicone, or glue holding it all together. cut/peel away the old silicone and expose the wires.
1. one wire will fit straight down through the hole in the bottom of the base
2. the other wire will be soldered to the inside wall of the base




Melt the solder on wire 2 and pull it away from the base. Switch the wires, and solder the other wire back onto the base into position 2.

Silicone around the bottom of the LEDs and slide it back into the base. The loose wire should slide straight down into the hole in the bottom of the base.

Hold the LED and the base together until the silicone dries.

One wire should be sticking up through the bottom of the base



Solder around the wire to fill in the hole and create a solid soldered base



The LED should fit perfectly into the socket, and your light should turn on! I recommend pulling the fuse from the box from the driver side under the dash before switching the bulbs.



Here are some pictures of the finished product! Enjoy!






Good luck!
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Here is a do it yourself step by step narrative for those of you who have had issues with the dome light bulbs. Most of the LEDs have the polarity wrong, and since these are not wedge bulbs, they cannot be simply turned around. You will need to disassemble them, switch the wires to reverse […]

Infiniti J30-Diagnosing a Faulty Fuel Injector

by 

"infiniti-j30-diagnosing-a-faulty-fuel-injector"
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                    [post_content] => Nissan infiniti technical articles



 

Removing a fuel injector without removing the plenum isn’t without risk. Grinding of the upper plenum will be involved with the possibility of completely grinding through the plenum wall thus ruining the plenum. The trade off is several hours of labor and many dollars saved by not having to replacing a slew of gaskets and hoses.

Tools:

*8mm Ball end Hex wrench (Allen wrench)
*Dremel rotary tool w/assorted grinding bits
*Voltmeter w/Ohm measurement
*Assortment of Phillips screwdrivers
*Liquid Wrench
*Pliers
*Vacuum
*Vaseline

Once a malfunctioning fuel injector is detected, rather through a CEL or common sense, the first step is to identify which injector has failed. There are two ways to identify the faulty injector.

1) Using a mechanics stethoscope place the scope on each injector until you find the one not ‘clicking’ while the engine is running. Voila, 60 seconds later you know which injector is dead. This is definitely the easiest and quickest method.

2) The 2nd method is done by measuring the resistance of each injector. I recommend double-checking the assumed failed injector with this method to verify it needs replacement and it’s not the coil pack that has failed. The factory specification of the injector is 10-14 Ohms. If the reading exceeds this range then replacement is necessary. This is how the measurement was made:

Checking Fuel Injector

1) Remove the throttle cable cover. This will require the 8mm Ball end hex wrench. There are 5 screws to remove.



2) Although not all can be seen but I’ve circled the approximate locations of the FI’s.



3) Now remove the wiring harness from each FI (if not using the stethoscope method) or just the single harness (if the stethoscope method was used). The harness can be a little tricky to get off. While doing this you should check for corrosion on the connections, as this could be a cause of the malfunction. In some instances, depending on the cylinder, it may be beneficial to disconnect the coil pack and move the wiring and harness out of the way.





4) Once the FI harness is removed use your voltmeter to measure the resistance of the FI. Use the two prongs surrounded by the red plastic to take your measurement. If it is good and in spec it should measure 10-14 Ohms. If it is out of this range it needs to be replaced.
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            [post_content] => Nissan infiniti technical articles



 

Removing a fuel injector without removing the plenum isn’t without risk. Grinding of the upper plenum will be involved with the possibility of completely grinding through the plenum wall thus ruining the plenum. The trade off is several hours of labor and many dollars saved by not having to replacing a slew of gaskets and hoses.

Tools:

*8mm Ball end Hex wrench (Allen wrench)
*Dremel rotary tool w/assorted grinding bits
*Voltmeter w/Ohm measurement
*Assortment of Phillips screwdrivers
*Liquid Wrench
*Pliers
*Vacuum
*Vaseline

Once a malfunctioning fuel injector is detected, rather through a CEL or common sense, the first step is to identify which injector has failed. There are two ways to identify the faulty injector.

1) Using a mechanics stethoscope place the scope on each injector until you find the one not ‘clicking’ while the engine is running. Voila, 60 seconds later you know which injector is dead. This is definitely the easiest and quickest method.

2) The 2nd method is done by measuring the resistance of each injector. I recommend double-checking the assumed failed injector with this method to verify it needs replacement and it’s not the coil pack that has failed. The factory specification of the injector is 10-14 Ohms. If the reading exceeds this range then replacement is necessary. This is how the measurement was made:

Checking Fuel Injector

1) Remove the throttle cable cover. This will require the 8mm Ball end hex wrench. There are 5 screws to remove.



2) Although not all can be seen but I’ve circled the approximate locations of the FI’s.



3) Now remove the wiring harness from each FI (if not using the stethoscope method) or just the single harness (if the stethoscope method was used). The harness can be a little tricky to get off. While doing this you should check for corrosion on the connections, as this could be a cause of the malfunction. In some instances, depending on the cylinder, it may be beneficial to disconnect the coil pack and move the wiring and harness out of the way.





4) Once the FI harness is removed use your voltmeter to measure the resistance of the FI. Use the two prongs surrounded by the red plastic to take your measurement. If it is good and in spec it should measure 10-14 Ohms. If it is out of this range it needs to be replaced.
            [post_title] => Infiniti J30-Diagnosing a Faulty Fuel Injector
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"

Removing a fuel injector without removing the plenum isn’t without risk. Grinding of the upper plenum will be involved with the possibility of completely grinding through the plenum wall thus ruining the plenum. The trade off is several hours of labor and many dollars saved by not having to replacing a slew of gaskets and […]

Nissan Murano- Halogen to OEM HID (Xenon) conversion

by 

"nissan-murano-halogen-to-oem-hid-xenon-conversion"
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                    [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
                    [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
                    [post_content] => Nissan infiniti technical articles

I posted this in the Murano forum but figured this is probably a more fitting forum for it.

My wife has a 2003 Murano and quite frankly the halogen bulbs suck. I decided to look into doing the conversion. I talked to a dealer to see if they could do it and how much it would be and they quoted me over $1300. They were telling me they would have to put in the new housings, a new wiring harness, and a new computer.

I then searched around online junkyards (www.junkyarddog.com IIRC) and found a place that had two of them. They quoted me 300 each and I offered them $400 for the pair which they accepted. This included the housings, the attached ballasts, and all bulbs except for the Xenon bulbs.

I then ordered some OEM Xenon bulbs from Daniel Stern lighting (awesome guy, btw - knows his stuff). $158 for 2 bulbs. I honestly don't remember if they're H1/H6 or what. I knew then.

So ventured out to check the connector in hopes that it would be a straight plug and play. To my delight the old connector fit the new housing! GREAT!

After I received the new bulbs I installed the bulbs (careful not to touch the bulb with my fingers - that's a big NO-NO) and then went out to put the new housings in. Well, it wasn't as easy to take them out as just removing a few screws. I was able to access the screws on the top but there is a bolt on the back side and one on the front side. The front bolt was accessible by taking off the front grill - somewhat of an annoyance but do-able in about 10 minutes with some clue as to what you are looking for.

The rear bolt (more specifically the side near the wheel well) was more of a challenge to get to. I ended up turning the wheel to gain access, pulled back the splash guard in the wheel well, and found that bolt. I had to use a ratcheting box end "happy wrench" to get it off - it was a PITA but it came off with some work. At that point all bolts were off and the housing was free to move around. I went to remove it from it's place only to find out that the support beam going from above the radiator curving around to the side was blocking removal of the housing. "Great" I thought - another thing to remove. They came off easy, though.2 bolts and they're off. I had to take one off each side. So finally the housings were able to be removed. I put the new ones in place (or rather connected up the harness to test to make sure it actually worked). Turn signals, parking lights, regular lights - everything worked.

So I set the lights in place, put the bolts back in (the ones on top, the one in front, and the one on the side), put the support members back in, put the splash guard back in place, fastened those fasteners, put the grill back on and I was good to go.

From start to finish actually putting the lights in the car took me about 2.5 hours but that's because I was scratching my head a good majority of the time trying to figure out why the light wasn't coming loose, found the side bolt, tried to figure out how I was going to get to that bolt, etc... Now knowing how to do it I would say it would take about an hour.

So I had everything put back together and informed my wife that everything was working. All that had to be done now as to aim the bulb shades later when it was dark so as to get good range but not blind people. That was easily achieved by turning using a phillips head and turning the shade varying knob - it's a little cogged plastic thing accessible from the top. Turn it one way and the shade goes up, turn it the other way and it goes down. There's also another one to vary them in / out but I didn't have to mess with that one.

Well, I thought I was done. Nope. We later found out that when the high beams were pressed the lights would shut off. No high beam bulbs either. This seemed strange to me. I did some research and found out that for high beams on the Murano with Xenon bulbs, it actually moves the bulb shade up so as to project the light upwards more. It basically moves the cutoff up. The pinout of the connector is the same as the halogen with one exception. In the halogen bulb one pin goes to the low beam filament and another goes to the high beam filament. When you switch to high beams on the halogen setup the low beams turn off and the highs turn on. On the HID version, the "low" powers the ballast which keeps the light on and the "high" actually powers the high beam solenoid which actuates the bulb shade and moves it up. So in the HID setup the lows have to stay on all the time basically. Great, how to change that?

In order to get this to work it is first important to understand from where it is controlled. There is a little box in the engine bay to the left of the plastic cover over the engine. It's about 2" x 6" plastic cover with a bulge on the left side with some wires coming out. That is the IPDM or Intelligent Power Distribution Module. I looked in the factory service manual to find this out.

Basically it is a board with a CPU, some relays, and some fuses. The way it controls the lighting is that it switches the grounds for the two lighting relays. The CPU is different between halogen / xenon in that it switches the ground for the low on only when in low beam operation and then off when in high beam operation on the halogen setup. The xenon setup maintains the ground switched for both high and low beam operation. As you recall, the "low" stays on but the "high" actually actuates the bulb shade solenoid in the xenon version. The fix was quite easy though a little complicated to get to. The IPDM needs to come out. Taking it out is easy.

To take the IPDM out you lift the two tabs and pull the top cover off. This will expose the IPDM. There is another little cover over the wiring harnesses that you will also have to remove. In order to get to those clips you'll have to loosen and move (not remove) the coolant reservior - 2 8mm bolts (IIRC). Move that, remove the 2nd little cover and you'll be able to pull the IPDM up a little to gain access to all the plugs.Disconnect the plugs (don't worry about which one is in where - they only plug back into one place - they can't be put back wrong). So pull them out and then the IPDM will come out.

Once that is out you'll have to remove the bottom cover of the IPDM. In order to do that you'll have to have 4 thin "things" to put in the 4 clip holes. I cut a wire hanger into 4 short pieces and pushed them through. There are 4 more small clips that you can't fit the hanger through but you can put them in the large end and then pry it off with a small screwdriver. Remove those 4 in sequence and the bottom cover will come off. Don't worry - almost there.

Once the bottom cover is off you'll have to take all the relays and fuses out. Take a picture as to how they are in there or set them out in the same configuration in which you remove them - whatever way works so that you'll put them back in correctly. Some of the relays are in there quite stiffly so they might require some needle nose pliers or vice grips or something. Don't crush them - just put enough clamping force on them so you can wiggle them out.

Okay, so the relays and fuses are out. Now you can just lift the top cover off and you'll see all the relay connectors and wire traces. The CPU and associated circuitry is under the plastic cover still in place. The two contacts that you'll be concerned with are on the low beam relay and the high beam relay which if the CPU is situated on the bottom left are the top right two most relays (low on top then high underneath it).

To make it so the lows stay on when the high is turned on you'll have to install a diode from the low beam terminal to the high beam terminal. See here:

What I ended up doing was bending the diode leads such that about 1/4" would go down into the plastic to seat it against the proper connectors and then dabbed just a tiny bit of solder on there to hold it in. If you are sure to get it down in you probably don't need solder - I just did it for good measure since I had some handy. Make sure you put some electrical tape on the trace that will be under the diode so it doesn't short out. You'll also have to clip / file / dremel out a little bit of the plastic on the cover that you will put back on to prevent it from placing force on the diode leads. This will all be revealed as you start actually looking at it.

So you have the diode in - now you have to put everything back together. Re-install the IPDM cover, put the relays and fuses back in, put it back in the slot, reconnect the wiring harnesses, put the covers back on the IPDM, reinstall the coolant reservoir, and make sure if you spilled any coolant you clean it up.

Start it up and test them out. You should maintain your lights on and you'll hear the bulb shades reposition when you go to high beam operation. That's it - you're done.

In retrospect I know that pictures would have been a lot more help. At the time I was doing it I wasn't quite sure what avenue I was going to be taking and didn't even know with 100% certainty that it was going to actually work. If anyone is interested in doing this and is in the Northern VA area I would be more than happy to help and then we can document it with pictures. You'll have to of course get everything beforehand.

To recap:
$400 - Murano Xenon housings with ballasts from a junkyard. Lowball them - they might go for it!
$158 - Set of proper HID bulbs.
$2 - Standard diodes from radio shack. I used 1A diodes but they really only need to be rated for about 100mA.
Some time and patience.

I would guess that for a first timer doing this entire thing would take about 6 hours total for everything. Don't forget though that you can break it up in two pieces - the light install and then the high beam fix.
                    [post_title] => Nissan Murano- Halogen to OEM HID (Xenon) conversion
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                    [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 20:31:08
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            [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
            [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
            [post_content] => Nissan infiniti technical articles

I posted this in the Murano forum but figured this is probably a more fitting forum for it.

My wife has a 2003 Murano and quite frankly the halogen bulbs suck. I decided to look into doing the conversion. I talked to a dealer to see if they could do it and how much it would be and they quoted me over $1300. They were telling me they would have to put in the new housings, a new wiring harness, and a new computer.

I then searched around online junkyards (www.junkyarddog.com IIRC) and found a place that had two of them. They quoted me 300 each and I offered them $400 for the pair which they accepted. This included the housings, the attached ballasts, and all bulbs except for the Xenon bulbs.

I then ordered some OEM Xenon bulbs from Daniel Stern lighting (awesome guy, btw - knows his stuff). $158 for 2 bulbs. I honestly don't remember if they're H1/H6 or what. I knew then.

So ventured out to check the connector in hopes that it would be a straight plug and play. To my delight the old connector fit the new housing! GREAT!

After I received the new bulbs I installed the bulbs (careful not to touch the bulb with my fingers - that's a big NO-NO) and then went out to put the new housings in. Well, it wasn't as easy to take them out as just removing a few screws. I was able to access the screws on the top but there is a bolt on the back side and one on the front side. The front bolt was accessible by taking off the front grill - somewhat of an annoyance but do-able in about 10 minutes with some clue as to what you are looking for.

The rear bolt (more specifically the side near the wheel well) was more of a challenge to get to. I ended up turning the wheel to gain access, pulled back the splash guard in the wheel well, and found that bolt. I had to use a ratcheting box end "happy wrench" to get it off - it was a PITA but it came off with some work. At that point all bolts were off and the housing was free to move around. I went to remove it from it's place only to find out that the support beam going from above the radiator curving around to the side was blocking removal of the housing. "Great" I thought - another thing to remove. They came off easy, though.2 bolts and they're off. I had to take one off each side. So finally the housings were able to be removed. I put the new ones in place (or rather connected up the harness to test to make sure it actually worked). Turn signals, parking lights, regular lights - everything worked.

So I set the lights in place, put the bolts back in (the ones on top, the one in front, and the one on the side), put the support members back in, put the splash guard back in place, fastened those fasteners, put the grill back on and I was good to go.

From start to finish actually putting the lights in the car took me about 2.5 hours but that's because I was scratching my head a good majority of the time trying to figure out why the light wasn't coming loose, found the side bolt, tried to figure out how I was going to get to that bolt, etc... Now knowing how to do it I would say it would take about an hour.

So I had everything put back together and informed my wife that everything was working. All that had to be done now as to aim the bulb shades later when it was dark so as to get good range but not blind people. That was easily achieved by turning using a phillips head and turning the shade varying knob - it's a little cogged plastic thing accessible from the top. Turn it one way and the shade goes up, turn it the other way and it goes down. There's also another one to vary them in / out but I didn't have to mess with that one.

Well, I thought I was done. Nope. We later found out that when the high beams were pressed the lights would shut off. No high beam bulbs either. This seemed strange to me. I did some research and found out that for high beams on the Murano with Xenon bulbs, it actually moves the bulb shade up so as to project the light upwards more. It basically moves the cutoff up. The pinout of the connector is the same as the halogen with one exception. In the halogen bulb one pin goes to the low beam filament and another goes to the high beam filament. When you switch to high beams on the halogen setup the low beams turn off and the highs turn on. On the HID version, the "low" powers the ballast which keeps the light on and the "high" actually powers the high beam solenoid which actuates the bulb shade and moves it up. So in the HID setup the lows have to stay on all the time basically. Great, how to change that?

In order to get this to work it is first important to understand from where it is controlled. There is a little box in the engine bay to the left of the plastic cover over the engine. It's about 2" x 6" plastic cover with a bulge on the left side with some wires coming out. That is the IPDM or Intelligent Power Distribution Module. I looked in the factory service manual to find this out.

Basically it is a board with a CPU, some relays, and some fuses. The way it controls the lighting is that it switches the grounds for the two lighting relays. The CPU is different between halogen / xenon in that it switches the ground for the low on only when in low beam operation and then off when in high beam operation on the halogen setup. The xenon setup maintains the ground switched for both high and low beam operation. As you recall, the "low" stays on but the "high" actually actuates the bulb shade solenoid in the xenon version. The fix was quite easy though a little complicated to get to. The IPDM needs to come out. Taking it out is easy.

To take the IPDM out you lift the two tabs and pull the top cover off. This will expose the IPDM. There is another little cover over the wiring harnesses that you will also have to remove. In order to get to those clips you'll have to loosen and move (not remove) the coolant reservior - 2 8mm bolts (IIRC). Move that, remove the 2nd little cover and you'll be able to pull the IPDM up a little to gain access to all the plugs.Disconnect the plugs (don't worry about which one is in where - they only plug back into one place - they can't be put back wrong). So pull them out and then the IPDM will come out.

Once that is out you'll have to remove the bottom cover of the IPDM. In order to do that you'll have to have 4 thin "things" to put in the 4 clip holes. I cut a wire hanger into 4 short pieces and pushed them through. There are 4 more small clips that you can't fit the hanger through but you can put them in the large end and then pry it off with a small screwdriver. Remove those 4 in sequence and the bottom cover will come off. Don't worry - almost there.

Once the bottom cover is off you'll have to take all the relays and fuses out. Take a picture as to how they are in there or set them out in the same configuration in which you remove them - whatever way works so that you'll put them back in correctly. Some of the relays are in there quite stiffly so they might require some needle nose pliers or vice grips or something. Don't crush them - just put enough clamping force on them so you can wiggle them out.

Okay, so the relays and fuses are out. Now you can just lift the top cover off and you'll see all the relay connectors and wire traces. The CPU and associated circuitry is under the plastic cover still in place. The two contacts that you'll be concerned with are on the low beam relay and the high beam relay which if the CPU is situated on the bottom left are the top right two most relays (low on top then high underneath it).

To make it so the lows stay on when the high is turned on you'll have to install a diode from the low beam terminal to the high beam terminal. See here:

What I ended up doing was bending the diode leads such that about 1/4" would go down into the plastic to seat it against the proper connectors and then dabbed just a tiny bit of solder on there to hold it in. If you are sure to get it down in you probably don't need solder - I just did it for good measure since I had some handy. Make sure you put some electrical tape on the trace that will be under the diode so it doesn't short out. You'll also have to clip / file / dremel out a little bit of the plastic on the cover that you will put back on to prevent it from placing force on the diode leads. This will all be revealed as you start actually looking at it.

So you have the diode in - now you have to put everything back together. Re-install the IPDM cover, put the relays and fuses back in, put it back in the slot, reconnect the wiring harnesses, put the covers back on the IPDM, reinstall the coolant reservoir, and make sure if you spilled any coolant you clean it up.

Start it up and test them out. You should maintain your lights on and you'll hear the bulb shades reposition when you go to high beam operation. That's it - you're done.

In retrospect I know that pictures would have been a lot more help. At the time I was doing it I wasn't quite sure what avenue I was going to be taking and didn't even know with 100% certainty that it was going to actually work. If anyone is interested in doing this and is in the Northern VA area I would be more than happy to help and then we can document it with pictures. You'll have to of course get everything beforehand.

To recap:
$400 - Murano Xenon housings with ballasts from a junkyard. Lowball them - they might go for it!
$158 - Set of proper HID bulbs.
$2 - Standard diodes from radio shack. I used 1A diodes but they really only need to be rated for about 100mA.
Some time and patience.

I would guess that for a first timer doing this entire thing would take about 6 hours total for everything. Don't forget though that you can break it up in two pieces - the light install and then the high beam fix.
            [post_title] => Nissan Murano- Halogen to OEM HID (Xenon) conversion
            [post_excerpt] => 
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            [post_name] => nissan-murano-halogen-to-oem-hid-xenon-conversion
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"

I posted this in the Murano forum but figured this is probably a more fitting forum for it. My wife has a 2003 Murano and quite frankly the halogen bulbs suck. I decided to look into doing the conversion. I talked to a dealer to see if they could do it and how much it […]

Aftermarket HID Installation without Bumper Removal

by 

"aftermarket-hid-installation-without-bumper-removal-nissan-altima"
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                    [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
                    [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
                    [post_content] => 

  

   
  


  

    
Nissan Altima

  


  

    
$60-$150

  


  

    
1-1/2 hours

  


  

    
NICOclub Rating System

  


  

    
generic808

  







First, always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery when working with power


Remove wheels. Always chock your back tires for safety.


Underneath the bumper, there are 3 screws on each side which need to be removed. Not the clips, just the screws.


Inside the well, you'll find about 8-9 clips that have to be removed. Remove by using flathead screwdriver and wedging the pins up, once exposed, pull out.


Carefully pull out wheel lining (2 pieces) exposing the space behind the headlight housing.


This is what you'll see at this point.


Remove stock bulb by disconnecting harness and twisting counter-clockwise, making sure NOT to touch the bulb in case you need to use it again.


Put new HID bulb in place by inserting and twisting clockwise until it locks in place.


Connect harness to new bulb.


Now connect bulbs to ballasts.



Find a place to mount the ballasts.


At this point I was rushing because the rain started coming again. I forgot to take a pic of my mount point on the passenger side. I used two existing holes in the frame where I ran wire ties through. Tied the mounting plate against the frame and that was it. The pic above is where I mounted the driver's side. It's on the frame also; I just used ties. Thought about drilling holes to mount is solidly, but the rain was coming down so I rushed and just tied it. Don't mind the messy wires. I just took a pic of where I was mounting, then I cleaned it up with ties.

Just reverse the process with the shield, clips and screws. After putting everything back, mount wheel and lower the car. Reconnect the battery terminal and there you go.

Here are a couple of pics so you can see the finished product:

Passenger side with HID and driver side with stock bulb. Just to show you guys the difference in color between the two. Can't really tell because it was broad daylight, but just to give you an idea.


Diamond white


The lights are blue for the first 15-20 seconds after firing up. Then they brighten to a nice white.



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            [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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            [post_content] => 

  

   
  


  

    
Nissan Altima

  


  

    
$60-$150

  


  

    
1-1/2 hours

  


  

    
NICOclub Rating System

  


  

    
generic808

  







First, always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery when working with power


Remove wheels. Always chock your back tires for safety.


Underneath the bumper, there are 3 screws on each side which need to be removed. Not the clips, just the screws.


Inside the well, you'll find about 8-9 clips that have to be removed. Remove by using flathead screwdriver and wedging the pins up, once exposed, pull out.


Carefully pull out wheel lining (2 pieces) exposing the space behind the headlight housing.


This is what you'll see at this point.


Remove stock bulb by disconnecting harness and twisting counter-clockwise, making sure NOT to touch the bulb in case you need to use it again.


Put new HID bulb in place by inserting and twisting clockwise until it locks in place.


Connect harness to new bulb.


Now connect bulbs to ballasts.



Find a place to mount the ballasts.


At this point I was rushing because the rain started coming again. I forgot to take a pic of my mount point on the passenger side. I used two existing holes in the frame where I ran wire ties through. Tied the mounting plate against the frame and that was it. The pic above is where I mounted the driver's side. It's on the frame also; I just used ties. Thought about drilling holes to mount is solidly, but the rain was coming down so I rushed and just tied it. Don't mind the messy wires. I just took a pic of where I was mounting, then I cleaned it up with ties.

Just reverse the process with the shield, clips and screws. After putting everything back, mount wheel and lower the car. Reconnect the battery terminal and there you go.

Here are a couple of pics so you can see the finished product:

Passenger side with HID and driver side with stock bulb. Just to show you guys the difference in color between the two. Can't really tell because it was broad daylight, but just to give you an idea.


Diamond white


The lights are blue for the first 15-20 seconds after firing up. Then they brighten to a nice white.



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"

Nissan Altima $60-$150 1-1/2 hours NICOclub Rating System generic808 First, always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery when working with power Remove wheels. Always chock your back tires for safety. Underneath the bumper, there are 3 screws on each side which need to be removed. Not the clips, just the screws. Inside the well, […]

Q45 Radiator Removal / Replacement

by 

"q45-radiator-removal-replacement"
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                    [post_content] => By: Tangalora

Prepare your work environment:

- Wear full coveralls & safety glasses (to keep grease out if nothing else);
- Shove a shop rag in your back pocket & a digital camera in your front pocket;
- Sweep the floor of your work area clean (you *will* repeatedly drop stuff);
- Place the Q45 transmission in PARK & chock the rear wheels;
- Lift the Q45 at the front engine crossmember with a floor jack;
- Place stands under the frame where the frame is double thickness
- Remove the floor jack & bounce-test the setup (better to fall now than later).
Empty the radiator of coolant:
- Loosen the radiator & coolant overflow covers to allow air in the system;
- Place a suitable container below the radiator passenger side corner;
- Loosen plastic drain c0ck at the bottom passenger side of the radiator;
- Drain radiator fluid into the container (an oil-change pan works well).
... Note: I removed the petcock completely to enable fluid to flow freely ...
Remove the black plastic ornamental cover directly above the radiator:
(Note: Some people find its easiest to remove the lower radiator hose.This makes a mess but is DEFINITELY the fastest way).
- Remove the steel quarter-inch screw just in front of the MAF (#2 phillips);
- Note the steel washer and rubber O ring below that short steel screw;
- Remove 7 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars);
- Note the female portion of the anchor bolt often comes out with the male;
- Loosly insert all 9 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
... Note: Someone had previously broken many fasteners ...
Remove the ornamental cover directly over the hood hinge (fore of the radiator):
- Remove 8 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars);
- Loosely insert all 8 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
... Note: Someone had previously broken many fasteners.
Remove the ornamental cover directly behind the driver-side headlamp:
- Remove 4 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars);
- Loosly insert all 4 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
... Note: Someone had previously broken some of the ornamental cover holes ...
Remove the ornamental cover directly behind the passenger-side headlamp:
- Remove 4 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars);
- Loosely insert all 4 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
Remove the two-piece fan shroud surrounding the engine fan:
- Remove 2 steel screws on the top of the radiator shroud (#2 phillips);
- Remove 2 steel screws on the bottom of the radiator shroud (#2 phillips);
- Unclip the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from 2 top driver-side clips;
- Unclip the electrical wires from shroud by pulling 2 posts out (needlenose);
- Note the fan shroud has a two-inch-wide removable collar around the fan;
- Remove the bottom fan-shroud-collar clip (#2 flat screwdriver or pliars);
- Remove the passenger-side fan-shroud-collar clip (sometimes difficult);
- You may leave the driver-side fan-shroud-collar clip (if you can't get to it);
- Pull the radiator shroud with attached collar upward out of the engine bay.
- Loosely insert all 4 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
... Note: I was able to leave the fan-shroud-collar hanging by one clip ...
Disconnect the upper two-inch rubber radiator hose assembly:
- Loosen the hose clamp at the water pump outlet on the engine (#2 flat);
- Manually pull the two-inch hose off the water pump outlet;
- Hand tighten the hose clamp onto a section of the hose for safe keeping;
Disconnect the radiator overflow hose under the radiator pressure cap;
- Loosen the radiator-overflow-hose clamp at the top of the radiator (pliers);
- Detach the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from the top of the radiator;
- Move the hose clamp onto a section of the overflow hose for safe keeping;
Remove the engine ornamental cover (between the water pump outlet & the plenum):
- Remove two 10 mm bolts on the top of the ornamental cover (1/4" socket set);
- Remove the one 10 mm nut on the side section of the ornamental cover (socket);
- Remove the engine ornamental cover from between the water pump & plenum;
- Loosely insert all 3 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
Disconnect the lower two-inch rubber radiator hose assembly:
- Find two CAS wire-holder fasteners on the lower-hose metal section bracket;
- Detach those two CAS wire-holder fasteners (bent needlenose pliers);
- Find the one 10 mm bolt holding the lower-hose steel section & bracket;
- Remove that 10 mm bolt from the engine (socket + 6 inch extension);
- Remove the three 12 mm thermostat cover bolts (socket + 6 inch extension);
- The lower two-inch radiator hose is now free from the engine;
- Loosely insert the one bolt by hand in its original position for safekeeping.
Disconnect the two wires attached to the radiator before removal:
- Remove the 22 mm thermoswitch on the radiator driver side (open-end wrench);
- Make sure you save the rubber 0-ring underneath this brass thermoswitch;
- Disconnect a wiring connector on the driver side near the radiator;
... Note: Could I instead disconnect the thermoswitch from the harness? ...
Disconnect the OEM ATF transmission oil cooler inside the radiator:
- On the driver side of the radiator, on the side facing the engine;
- Locate where the rubber transmission tubing meets metal tubes;
- This will be underneath the engine, close to the power steering pump;
- This location makes dis-assembly easy as you can get a good grip here;
- Label each hose & metal line pair so as not to confuse them upon reassembly;
- Specifically, the lower rubber hose goes to the distal horizontal metal tube;
- Correspondingly, the upper rubber hose goes to the medial metal tube;
- Place a thick shop towel nearby as the transmission cooler will leak oil;
- Remove the 10 mm bolt on each of these two hose clamps (box wrench);
- Temporarily plug each transmission cooler rubber line with a pencil;
- Otherwise you'll leak ATF oil all over the floor of your workspace;
- Hand tighten the two hose clamps onto their respective hoses for safekeeping;
... Note: I couldn't remove the two 19 mm ATF brass fittings or their hoses! ..
Remove the two bolts attaching the radiator to the Q45 frame:
- Make a note of the difference between the two brackets on the radiator top;
- Remove the two 10 mm bolts at the top of the radiator (box wrench);
- Lift up the two (different size) radiator brackets under those two bolts;
- Loosely insert both fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
Remove radiator:
- Pull the radiator up out the top of the engine bay & inspect for damage.

Reinstall in reverse order.

We recommend refilling with distilled water (70%), antifreeze (30%), and 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter.

SUMMARY:

#1 Empty the radiator of coolant by opening the passenger-side drain cock;
#2 Detach the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from the top of the radiator;
#3 Pull out two wire fasteners from the drivers-side of the fan shroud (pliars);
#4 Unclip thermoswitch electrical wires (the thermoswitch may remain in place);
#5 Detach two CAS-wire-holder fasteners (using bent needlenose pliars);
#6 Remove one 10 mm bolt holding 2-inch pipe to engine (socket, 6 in extension);
#7 Remove the lower two-inch radiator hose from the thermostat housing;
#8 Disconnect the upper two-inch rubber radiator from the water pump outlet;
#9 Disconnect the upper transmission heat exchanger inlet quarter-inch hose;
#10 Disconnect the lower transmission heat exchanger outlet quarter-inch hose;
#11 Remove the three 2-inch-wide lower shroud-collar clips (needle-nose pliars);
#12 Remove the two 10 mm bolts at the top of the radiator (box wrench).
                    [post_title] => Q45 Radiator Removal / Replacement
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            [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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            [post_content] => By: Tangalora

Prepare your work environment:

- Wear full coveralls & safety glasses (to keep grease out if nothing else);
- Shove a shop rag in your back pocket & a digital camera in your front pocket;
- Sweep the floor of your work area clean (you *will* repeatedly drop stuff);
- Place the Q45 transmission in PARK & chock the rear wheels;
- Lift the Q45 at the front engine crossmember with a floor jack;
- Place stands under the frame where the frame is double thickness
- Remove the floor jack & bounce-test the setup (better to fall now than later).
Empty the radiator of coolant:
- Loosen the radiator & coolant overflow covers to allow air in the system;
- Place a suitable container below the radiator passenger side corner;
- Loosen plastic drain c0ck at the bottom passenger side of the radiator;
- Drain radiator fluid into the container (an oil-change pan works well).
... Note: I removed the petcock completely to enable fluid to flow freely ...
Remove the black plastic ornamental cover directly above the radiator:
(Note: Some people find its easiest to remove the lower radiator hose.This makes a mess but is DEFINITELY the fastest way).
- Remove the steel quarter-inch screw just in front of the MAF (#2 phillips);
- Note the steel washer and rubber O ring below that short steel screw;
- Remove 7 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars);
- Note the female portion of the anchor bolt often comes out with the male;
- Loosly insert all 9 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
... Note: Someone had previously broken many fasteners ...
Remove the ornamental cover directly over the hood hinge (fore of the radiator):
- Remove 8 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars);
- Loosely insert all 8 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
... Note: Someone had previously broken many fasteners.
Remove the ornamental cover directly behind the driver-side headlamp:
- Remove 4 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars);
- Loosly insert all 4 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
... Note: Someone had previously broken some of the ornamental cover holes ...
Remove the ornamental cover directly behind the passenger-side headlamp:
- Remove 4 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars);
- Loosely insert all 4 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
Remove the two-piece fan shroud surrounding the engine fan:
- Remove 2 steel screws on the top of the radiator shroud (#2 phillips);
- Remove 2 steel screws on the bottom of the radiator shroud (#2 phillips);
- Unclip the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from 2 top driver-side clips;
- Unclip the electrical wires from shroud by pulling 2 posts out (needlenose);
- Note the fan shroud has a two-inch-wide removable collar around the fan;
- Remove the bottom fan-shroud-collar clip (#2 flat screwdriver or pliars);
- Remove the passenger-side fan-shroud-collar clip (sometimes difficult);
- You may leave the driver-side fan-shroud-collar clip (if you can't get to it);
- Pull the radiator shroud with attached collar upward out of the engine bay.
- Loosely insert all 4 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
... Note: I was able to leave the fan-shroud-collar hanging by one clip ...
Disconnect the upper two-inch rubber radiator hose assembly:
- Loosen the hose clamp at the water pump outlet on the engine (#2 flat);
- Manually pull the two-inch hose off the water pump outlet;
- Hand tighten the hose clamp onto a section of the hose for safe keeping;
Disconnect the radiator overflow hose under the radiator pressure cap;
- Loosen the radiator-overflow-hose clamp at the top of the radiator (pliers);
- Detach the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from the top of the radiator;
- Move the hose clamp onto a section of the overflow hose for safe keeping;
Remove the engine ornamental cover (between the water pump outlet & the plenum):
- Remove two 10 mm bolts on the top of the ornamental cover (1/4" socket set);
- Remove the one 10 mm nut on the side section of the ornamental cover (socket);
- Remove the engine ornamental cover from between the water pump & plenum;
- Loosely insert all 3 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
Disconnect the lower two-inch rubber radiator hose assembly:
- Find two CAS wire-holder fasteners on the lower-hose metal section bracket;
- Detach those two CAS wire-holder fasteners (bent needlenose pliers);
- Find the one 10 mm bolt holding the lower-hose steel section & bracket;
- Remove that 10 mm bolt from the engine (socket + 6 inch extension);
- Remove the three 12 mm thermostat cover bolts (socket + 6 inch extension);
- The lower two-inch radiator hose is now free from the engine;
- Loosely insert the one bolt by hand in its original position for safekeeping.
Disconnect the two wires attached to the radiator before removal:
- Remove the 22 mm thermoswitch on the radiator driver side (open-end wrench);
- Make sure you save the rubber 0-ring underneath this brass thermoswitch;
- Disconnect a wiring connector on the driver side near the radiator;
... Note: Could I instead disconnect the thermoswitch from the harness? ...
Disconnect the OEM ATF transmission oil cooler inside the radiator:
- On the driver side of the radiator, on the side facing the engine;
- Locate where the rubber transmission tubing meets metal tubes;
- This will be underneath the engine, close to the power steering pump;
- This location makes dis-assembly easy as you can get a good grip here;
- Label each hose & metal line pair so as not to confuse them upon reassembly;
- Specifically, the lower rubber hose goes to the distal horizontal metal tube;
- Correspondingly, the upper rubber hose goes to the medial metal tube;
- Place a thick shop towel nearby as the transmission cooler will leak oil;
- Remove the 10 mm bolt on each of these two hose clamps (box wrench);
- Temporarily plug each transmission cooler rubber line with a pencil;
- Otherwise you'll leak ATF oil all over the floor of your workspace;
- Hand tighten the two hose clamps onto their respective hoses for safekeeping;
... Note: I couldn't remove the two 19 mm ATF brass fittings or their hoses! ..
Remove the two bolts attaching the radiator to the Q45 frame:
- Make a note of the difference between the two brackets on the radiator top;
- Remove the two 10 mm bolts at the top of the radiator (box wrench);
- Lift up the two (different size) radiator brackets under those two bolts;
- Loosely insert both fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping.
Remove radiator:
- Pull the radiator up out the top of the engine bay & inspect for damage.

Reinstall in reverse order.

We recommend refilling with distilled water (70%), antifreeze (30%), and 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter.

SUMMARY:

#1 Empty the radiator of coolant by opening the passenger-side drain cock;
#2 Detach the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from the top of the radiator;
#3 Pull out two wire fasteners from the drivers-side of the fan shroud (pliars);
#4 Unclip thermoswitch electrical wires (the thermoswitch may remain in place);
#5 Detach two CAS-wire-holder fasteners (using bent needlenose pliars);
#6 Remove one 10 mm bolt holding 2-inch pipe to engine (socket, 6 in extension);
#7 Remove the lower two-inch radiator hose from the thermostat housing;
#8 Disconnect the upper two-inch rubber radiator from the water pump outlet;
#9 Disconnect the upper transmission heat exchanger inlet quarter-inch hose;
#10 Disconnect the lower transmission heat exchanger outlet quarter-inch hose;
#11 Remove the three 2-inch-wide lower shroud-collar clips (needle-nose pliars);
#12 Remove the two 10 mm bolts at the top of the radiator (box wrench).
            [post_title] => Q45 Radiator Removal / Replacement
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By: Tangalora Prepare your work environment: – Wear full coveralls & safety glasses (to keep grease out if nothing else); – Shove a shop rag in your back pocket & a digital camera in your front pocket; – Sweep the floor of your work area clean (you *will* repeatedly drop stuff); – Place the Q45 […]

Q45 Chain Guides Removal / Replacement

by 

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                    [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
                    [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11
                    [post_content] => By: Tangalora

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
SUMMARY: 90-93 Q45 chain guide repair (hints, suggestions, procedures):
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Formulate a basic overview understanding of the situation at hand:

The whole chain is under tension; but we use tension & slack terminology.
The crankshaft pulls on the straight leg of the chain (the tension side).
Then (terminologically) the curved leg is "pushed" (i.e., the slack side).

The guides that were redesigned are the tension-side (straight) guides.
A new plastic tension guide sits on top of a new metal tension guide.
These two guides replace one guide (using longer bolts than original).

Light blue-gray RTV around the timing cover & oil pan is likely factory.
Red RTV would most likely indicate the cover was removed at one point.
The passenger side slack guide can be viewed by removing an engine porthole.

The slack-side (curved) guides don't generally fail & were not redesigned.
The guides on the driver's side are those that most often fail.
So, that would make the driver side tension guide the main failure item.

The original design used 2 guides per chain (slack-side & tension-side).
The new design uses three guides per chain (2 for 1 on the tension guide).
The slack-side guides were metal originally so new is almost identical.

The straight leg has enough tension it almost doesn't need a guide.
Even if the tension guide fails, the engine may run fine for a long while.
The plastic pieces may wedge between chain and sprocket.

The timing cover may crack (leaking oil profusely).
The chain can break.
The chain can skip a tooth (or two or three).

The main danger is a chain jumping a tooth causing valve timing changes.
Each cam gear tooth is 10 degrees (each crank gear tooth is 20 degrees).
One crank tooth or 2 cam teeth is the ragged edge of exhaust valve contact.

The second danger is pieces lodging under the chain (perhaps breaking it).
Chain guide slop may also cause engine-cover oil-chain "ears" to break off.
That loose "ear" lodges in the oil pump sprocket & cracks the timing cover.

Broken pieces that fall into the oil pan are also a potential problem.
Large pieces (which grind ever smaller) may clog (starve) the oil pickup.
Smaller pieces (grinding ever smaller) may score the oil pump vanes.

There are 2 oil chain guides, but 1 wears faster than the other.
The slack-side oil pump guide doesn't have a tensioner.
It's just set in place and has to be manually adjusted (i.e., replaced).

Generally you do not have to replace the timing chains.
If you replace timing chains, it will take twice as long to do the job.
If you replace timing chains, the valve covers will have to come off.

The toughest chainguide step is R&R of the 270 ftlb crankshaft-pulley bolt.
Do NOT put a chain wrench on the pulley & then tap the starter switch.
You may put a wrench on the bolt resting on something solid & tap the starter.

Byron at T3 apparently also takes the pulley off the power steering pump.
Most replace the oil pump but there isn't much evidence to show it's needed. It would be interesting to test oil pressure before & after oilpan cleanup.

-----------------------------------------------------------
Read how to perform the job based on others' experience:
-----------------------------------------------------------

Factory Shop Manual, Engine Mechanical section:
Note: I could barely understand the FSM so correct as needed.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Photographic summary of a chain guide & oil pan replacement:
http://www.q45.org/guidereplacement.html
(www.q45.org/guidereplacement.html)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=77266
-----------------------------------------------------------
Photo of tension side guides and slack side guides:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Timing chain parts list:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15226
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15226)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=13851
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=13851)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Checking chain guides:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=7058
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=7058)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12551
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12551)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Replacing chain guides:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15861
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15861)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=48852
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=48852)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Supporting the engine & tension-side chain guide information:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=27044
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=27044)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=92067
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=92067)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Aligning marks for timing chain guide replacement:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=71463
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=71463)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=710
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=710)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Checking for new chain guides:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15648
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15648)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12941
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12941)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Chain guide replacement hints:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=26454
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=26454)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=28462
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=28462)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Chain guide noise & broken timing chain cover debug steps:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=16281
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=16281)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=46708
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=46708)
-----------------------------------------------------------

Obtain requisite parts from Joe of Scottsdale Infiniti or elsewhere:
http://www.EverythingNissan.com 888-216-5328
- 1x 13510-60U00 - front cover seal
- 2x 13270-60U00 - valve cover gaskets (if valve cover is removed)
- 4x 11051-60U04 - cam end seals (if the valve cover is removed)
- 1x 13091-60U01 - guide (tension RH)
- 1x 13091-60U11 - guide (tension LH)
- 1x 13070-60U03 - chain tensioner (RH)
- 1x 13070-60U12 - chain tensioner (LH)
- 2x 13085-60U01 - chain guide (tensioner guide?)
- 2x 13085-60U11 - chain guide
- 2x 13094-60U00 - guide bolts
- 2x 01121-04711 - guide bolts
- 4x 13075-60U02 - tensioner bolts
- 1x 13079-60U01 - tensioner gasket (LH)
- 1x 15041-60U00 - oil pump chain (highly recommended)
- 1x 15073-60U00 - oil pump chain guide
- 1x 15073-60U10 - oil pump chain guide
- 1x 15072-60U00 - bracket oil pump
- 1x 15044-60U00 - crank/oil sprocket
- 1x 15043-60U00 - crank/timing sprocket
- 2x 13021-60U00 - crank/cam sprockets (if warranted)
- 2x 13028-60U00 - timing chains (if warranted)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Line up the necessary shop tools:

- Garage tools (jack/stands or ramps, creeper, etc)
- Common metric sockets (8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19mm)
- You will use the 10mm the most by far so have a few types on hand.
- Large crank bolt socket (30 or 31mm)
- Ratchets and 10 mm wrenches.
- 18" breaker bar and an extension pipe.
- A 300 ft-lb torque wrench (maybe).
- A large puller (Sears has them for about $30)
- A 5mm allen socket (do not use an allen wrench); this is CRITICAL.
- A chain wrench long enough to wrap around the main pulley.
- That chain wrench must have a 3-foot handle (or a 3-foot pipe)
- An old ribbed belt sufficient to wrap around the crank pulley (to act as a buffer between the crank pulley and the chain wrench, very optional).
- Other common shop tools--pliers, vise grips, magnetic tool pickups, etc.
- RTV (1 tube of Permatex Blue will be plenty, however Nissan Genuine RTV is included in the kit from Joe).
- Feeler gauges (1mm, 0.04 inches) for chain-to-guide distance.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Overview of chain guide replacement steps (no chains = 10 hours):
- Inspect lower valve cover abutment with engine for RTV color
- Or pull the front-most oil pan bolt to check the RTV in the bolt hole.
- If it's light gray/blue, then it's most likely still factory sealed.
- Red RTV (most common) is not factory (according to most accounts).
- This isn't definitive; but it's a circumstantial hint nonetheless.
- Remove all plastic trim pieces to expose radiator and cover.
- Drain coolant and remove radiator.
- Remove all belts.
- Remove all belt tensioners.
- Remove metal bracket on PS fluid pump covering front cover.
- Remove coolant hose running across front cover.
- Align the pulley to TDC (this is the last timing mark on the crank pulley, however the crank pulley is notched with a key so this is not 100% critical).
- Remove crank pulley main bolt with a wrench on the nut.

Remove crankshaft bolt:
- Tools = 30mm socket, 22" chain/strap wrench, 18" breaker & 30" cheater bar
- Wrap a 20 inch protective strip of tire inner tube (or old ribbed belt) around the pulley
- Cinch the chain or strap wrench around the pulley (any location is OK)
- Turn the bolt counter-clockwise until the chain wrench wedges somewhere
- Check that the chain wrench wedged somewhere safe & solid
- Easily twist the bolt off using leverage (it will not take much effort)
- Actual time should be less than 15 minutes from start to finish

Remove crankshaft pulley:
- One assumption is the radiator has already been removed
- Tools = 30 mm socket, 24" ratchet, 30" cheater pipe
- Replace crankshaft bolt and place the 30mm socket on the bolt
- Twist the engine CLOCKWISE (to set #1 piston at compression TDC)
- Line up the CAS pointer to 270 degrees (facing engine) to set #1 compression
- Line up the left-most pulley notch with the timing-cover dowel to set #1 TDC
- Remove the crankshaft bolt without disturbing from #1 compression TDC
- With hands, manually tweak back to #1 compression TDC (if necessary)
- REMOVE the fat washer & replace the bolt loosly on the crankshaft
- Make sure only a few threads are engaged & that the washer is off!
- Tools = Sears 2-jaw puller #46903) or equivalent, 3/4 inch box wrench
- With a helper, position two puller jaws on the third lip of the pulley
- Place a 3/4" box wrench on the puller shaft & twist clockwise
- Easily twist the pulley off using leverage (it will not take much effort)
- Actual time should be less than 15 minutes from start to finish

- Remove the front lower timing chain cover screws.
- Note there four oil pan bolts holding the lower timing chain cover.
- Note the upper timing chain covers may remain on the engine.
- Remove the lower front cover.
- Note the 6 different lengths and 32 bolt holes (keep track).
- Pry at the bottom corner of the cover, near the alternator
- Also pry just below the water pump.
- May need to remove the pump (5 bolts and RTV) to get to pry point.
- Try to pry/pull as evenly as possible.
- Don't damage the solid gasket between lower & upper timing covers.
- Immediately after removing the cover, block the oil pan with towels.
- Inspect all timing chains for cracks or excessive wear indications.
- Locate the TDC dimple below a tooth in the crank sprocket.
- Just above that dimpled tooth should be a timing chain GOLD LINK.
- Remove the oil pump chain, guide and sprocket (which is not keyed).
- Note the oil pump crankshaft sproket has a key cut.
- This oil pump crank sprocket keyway isn't used to hold it in place.
- Compression/friction of the 270 foot pound crankshaft bolt holds it.
- This oil pump sprocket keyway is there only to put it on the crankshaft.
- Cinch timing chains tightly to prevent jumping a sprocket tooth.
- This is the most critical step (most folks use tie wraps)
- Remove the old chain guides (don't let the chains loosen).
- Re-cinch chains, if needed, to be safe (do we use a 1mm feeler gauge?).
- Use a 5mm allen socket to remove the old tensioners (very tight)
- Install new tensioners and guides (don't use a 5mm allen wrench)
- Measure with a feeler gauge 1mm distance between upper guides & chain.
- Make sure there is no gunk clogging the tensioner oil ports.
- Use "BG Quick Clean for Engines" (if necessary) to unclog HLA passages.
- Try to fish out any pieces left in the oil pan (or vacuum them out).
- Install new oil pump chain, guide and sprocket.
- Turn the crankshaft slowly by hand before putting covers on.
- If anything binds, now is the time to find out.
- Clean the mating surfaces of the cover and degrease
- Don't bend the solid gasket above the cover as you install the cover.
- Note there is no RTV between the timing cover and its solid gasket.
- Apply fresh RTV and install cover with all bolts.
- Torque all cover bolt to spec where possible (see FSM).
- Torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 270 foot pounds.
- 90 lbs of force on a 3-ft bar will do if you don't have a torque wrench.
- Install everything in the reverse order of removal
- Fill up coolant
- Fill up the oil
- Turn main pully two full turns to spread oil around the engine.
- You'll feel & hear the compresson cycles; hopefully nothing else.
- Torque up the main bolt to 270 ft-lbs before replacing the belts.
- Two strong guys are probably best for this step.
- Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to spread some more oil.
- Replace the fuel pump fuse.
- Crank engine & turn off imediately 5 or 10 [sometimes 20] times.
- It may sound like the engine is going to explode for a minute.
- HLA & tensioners need to bleed air admitted when you changed them.
- The noise should suddenly go away after a few minutes running.
- Run [multiple] warm/hot power balances
- Make sure every cylinder drop is no more than 25 rpm variance.
- If you have not dropped the oil pan, run an oil pressure check.
- This might tell you if the oil pickup is clogged with guide debris.
                    [post_title] => Q45 Chain Guides Removal / Replacement
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            [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11
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            [post_content] => By: Tangalora

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
SUMMARY: 90-93 Q45 chain guide repair (hints, suggestions, procedures):
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Formulate a basic overview understanding of the situation at hand:

The whole chain is under tension; but we use tension & slack terminology.
The crankshaft pulls on the straight leg of the chain (the tension side).
Then (terminologically) the curved leg is "pushed" (i.e., the slack side).

The guides that were redesigned are the tension-side (straight) guides.
A new plastic tension guide sits on top of a new metal tension guide.
These two guides replace one guide (using longer bolts than original).

Light blue-gray RTV around the timing cover & oil pan is likely factory.
Red RTV would most likely indicate the cover was removed at one point.
The passenger side slack guide can be viewed by removing an engine porthole.

The slack-side (curved) guides don't generally fail & were not redesigned.
The guides on the driver's side are those that most often fail.
So, that would make the driver side tension guide the main failure item.

The original design used 2 guides per chain (slack-side & tension-side).
The new design uses three guides per chain (2 for 1 on the tension guide).
The slack-side guides were metal originally so new is almost identical.

The straight leg has enough tension it almost doesn't need a guide.
Even if the tension guide fails, the engine may run fine for a long while.
The plastic pieces may wedge between chain and sprocket.

The timing cover may crack (leaking oil profusely).
The chain can break.
The chain can skip a tooth (or two or three).

The main danger is a chain jumping a tooth causing valve timing changes.
Each cam gear tooth is 10 degrees (each crank gear tooth is 20 degrees).
One crank tooth or 2 cam teeth is the ragged edge of exhaust valve contact.

The second danger is pieces lodging under the chain (perhaps breaking it).
Chain guide slop may also cause engine-cover oil-chain "ears" to break off.
That loose "ear" lodges in the oil pump sprocket & cracks the timing cover.

Broken pieces that fall into the oil pan are also a potential problem.
Large pieces (which grind ever smaller) may clog (starve) the oil pickup.
Smaller pieces (grinding ever smaller) may score the oil pump vanes.

There are 2 oil chain guides, but 1 wears faster than the other.
The slack-side oil pump guide doesn't have a tensioner.
It's just set in place and has to be manually adjusted (i.e., replaced).

Generally you do not have to replace the timing chains.
If you replace timing chains, it will take twice as long to do the job.
If you replace timing chains, the valve covers will have to come off.

The toughest chainguide step is R&R of the 270 ftlb crankshaft-pulley bolt.
Do NOT put a chain wrench on the pulley & then tap the starter switch.
You may put a wrench on the bolt resting on something solid & tap the starter.

Byron at T3 apparently also takes the pulley off the power steering pump.
Most replace the oil pump but there isn't much evidence to show it's needed. It would be interesting to test oil pressure before & after oilpan cleanup.

-----------------------------------------------------------
Read how to perform the job based on others' experience:
-----------------------------------------------------------

Factory Shop Manual, Engine Mechanical section:
Note: I could barely understand the FSM so correct as needed.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Photographic summary of a chain guide & oil pan replacement:
http://www.q45.org/guidereplacement.html
(www.q45.org/guidereplacement.html)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=77266
-----------------------------------------------------------
Photo of tension side guides and slack side guides:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Timing chain parts list:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15226
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15226)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=13851
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=13851)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Checking chain guides:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=7058
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=7058)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12551
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12551)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Replacing chain guides:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15861
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15861)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=48852
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=48852)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Supporting the engine & tension-side chain guide information:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=27044
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=27044)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=92067
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=92067)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Aligning marks for timing chain guide replacement:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=71463
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=71463)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=710
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=710)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Checking for new chain guides:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15648
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15648)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12941
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12941)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Chain guide replacement hints:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=26454
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=26454)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=28462
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=28462)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Chain guide noise & broken timing chain cover debug steps:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=16281
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=16281)
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=46708
(forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=46708)
-----------------------------------------------------------

Obtain requisite parts from Joe of Scottsdale Infiniti or elsewhere:
http://www.EverythingNissan.com 888-216-5328
- 1x 13510-60U00 - front cover seal
- 2x 13270-60U00 - valve cover gaskets (if valve cover is removed)
- 4x 11051-60U04 - cam end seals (if the valve cover is removed)
- 1x 13091-60U01 - guide (tension RH)
- 1x 13091-60U11 - guide (tension LH)
- 1x 13070-60U03 - chain tensioner (RH)
- 1x 13070-60U12 - chain tensioner (LH)
- 2x 13085-60U01 - chain guide (tensioner guide?)
- 2x 13085-60U11 - chain guide
- 2x 13094-60U00 - guide bolts
- 2x 01121-04711 - guide bolts
- 4x 13075-60U02 - tensioner bolts
- 1x 13079-60U01 - tensioner gasket (LH)
- 1x 15041-60U00 - oil pump chain (highly recommended)
- 1x 15073-60U00 - oil pump chain guide
- 1x 15073-60U10 - oil pump chain guide
- 1x 15072-60U00 - bracket oil pump
- 1x 15044-60U00 - crank/oil sprocket
- 1x 15043-60U00 - crank/timing sprocket
- 2x 13021-60U00 - crank/cam sprockets (if warranted)
- 2x 13028-60U00 - timing chains (if warranted)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Line up the necessary shop tools:

- Garage tools (jack/stands or ramps, creeper, etc)
- Common metric sockets (8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19mm)
- You will use the 10mm the most by far so have a few types on hand.
- Large crank bolt socket (30 or 31mm)
- Ratchets and 10 mm wrenches.
- 18" breaker bar and an extension pipe.
- A 300 ft-lb torque wrench (maybe).
- A large puller (Sears has them for about $30)
- A 5mm allen socket (do not use an allen wrench); this is CRITICAL.
- A chain wrench long enough to wrap around the main pulley.
- That chain wrench must have a 3-foot handle (or a 3-foot pipe)
- An old ribbed belt sufficient to wrap around the crank pulley (to act as a buffer between the crank pulley and the chain wrench, very optional).
- Other common shop tools--pliers, vise grips, magnetic tool pickups, etc.
- RTV (1 tube of Permatex Blue will be plenty, however Nissan Genuine RTV is included in the kit from Joe).
- Feeler gauges (1mm, 0.04 inches) for chain-to-guide distance.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Overview of chain guide replacement steps (no chains = 10 hours):
- Inspect lower valve cover abutment with engine for RTV color
- Or pull the front-most oil pan bolt to check the RTV in the bolt hole.
- If it's light gray/blue, then it's most likely still factory sealed.
- Red RTV (most common) is not factory (according to most accounts).
- This isn't definitive; but it's a circumstantial hint nonetheless.
- Remove all plastic trim pieces to expose radiator and cover.
- Drain coolant and remove radiator.
- Remove all belts.
- Remove all belt tensioners.
- Remove metal bracket on PS fluid pump covering front cover.
- Remove coolant hose running across front cover.
- Align the pulley to TDC (this is the last timing mark on the crank pulley, however the crank pulley is notched with a key so this is not 100% critical).
- Remove crank pulley main bolt with a wrench on the nut.

Remove crankshaft bolt:
- Tools = 30mm socket, 22" chain/strap wrench, 18" breaker & 30" cheater bar
- Wrap a 20 inch protective strip of tire inner tube (or old ribbed belt) around the pulley
- Cinch the chain or strap wrench around the pulley (any location is OK)
- Turn the bolt counter-clockwise until the chain wrench wedges somewhere
- Check that the chain wrench wedged somewhere safe & solid
- Easily twist the bolt off using leverage (it will not take much effort)
- Actual time should be less than 15 minutes from start to finish

Remove crankshaft pulley:
- One assumption is the radiator has already been removed
- Tools = 30 mm socket, 24" ratchet, 30" cheater pipe
- Replace crankshaft bolt and place the 30mm socket on the bolt
- Twist the engine CLOCKWISE (to set #1 piston at compression TDC)
- Line up the CAS pointer to 270 degrees (facing engine) to set #1 compression
- Line up the left-most pulley notch with the timing-cover dowel to set #1 TDC
- Remove the crankshaft bolt without disturbing from #1 compression TDC
- With hands, manually tweak back to #1 compression TDC (if necessary)
- REMOVE the fat washer & replace the bolt loosly on the crankshaft
- Make sure only a few threads are engaged & that the washer is off!
- Tools = Sears 2-jaw puller #46903) or equivalent, 3/4 inch box wrench
- With a helper, position two puller jaws on the third lip of the pulley
- Place a 3/4" box wrench on the puller shaft & twist clockwise
- Easily twist the pulley off using leverage (it will not take much effort)
- Actual time should be less than 15 minutes from start to finish

- Remove the front lower timing chain cover screws.
- Note there four oil pan bolts holding the lower timing chain cover.
- Note the upper timing chain covers may remain on the engine.
- Remove the lower front cover.
- Note the 6 different lengths and 32 bolt holes (keep track).
- Pry at the bottom corner of the cover, near the alternator
- Also pry just below the water pump.
- May need to remove the pump (5 bolts and RTV) to get to pry point.
- Try to pry/pull as evenly as possible.
- Don't damage the solid gasket between lower & upper timing covers.
- Immediately after removing the cover, block the oil pan with towels.
- Inspect all timing chains for cracks or excessive wear indications.
- Locate the TDC dimple below a tooth in the crank sprocket.
- Just above that dimpled tooth should be a timing chain GOLD LINK.
- Remove the oil pump chain, guide and sprocket (which is not keyed).
- Note the oil pump crankshaft sproket has a key cut.
- This oil pump crank sprocket keyway isn't used to hold it in place.
- Compression/friction of the 270 foot pound crankshaft bolt holds it.
- This oil pump sprocket keyway is there only to put it on the crankshaft.
- Cinch timing chains tightly to prevent jumping a sprocket tooth.
- This is the most critical step (most folks use tie wraps)
- Remove the old chain guides (don't let the chains loosen).
- Re-cinch chains, if needed, to be safe (do we use a 1mm feeler gauge?).
- Use a 5mm allen socket to remove the old tensioners (very tight)
- Install new tensioners and guides (don't use a 5mm allen wrench)
- Measure with a feeler gauge 1mm distance between upper guides & chain.
- Make sure there is no gunk clogging the tensioner oil ports.
- Use "BG Quick Clean for Engines" (if necessary) to unclog HLA passages.
- Try to fish out any pieces left in the oil pan (or vacuum them out).
- Install new oil pump chain, guide and sprocket.
- Turn the crankshaft slowly by hand before putting covers on.
- If anything binds, now is the time to find out.
- Clean the mating surfaces of the cover and degrease
- Don't bend the solid gasket above the cover as you install the cover.
- Note there is no RTV between the timing cover and its solid gasket.
- Apply fresh RTV and install cover with all bolts.
- Torque all cover bolt to spec where possible (see FSM).
- Torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 270 foot pounds.
- 90 lbs of force on a 3-ft bar will do if you don't have a torque wrench.
- Install everything in the reverse order of removal
- Fill up coolant
- Fill up the oil
- Turn main pully two full turns to spread oil around the engine.
- You'll feel & hear the compresson cycles; hopefully nothing else.
- Torque up the main bolt to 270 ft-lbs before replacing the belts.
- Two strong guys are probably best for this step.
- Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to spread some more oil.
- Replace the fuel pump fuse.
- Crank engine & turn off imediately 5 or 10 [sometimes 20] times.
- It may sound like the engine is going to explode for a minute.
- HLA & tensioners need to bleed air admitted when you changed them.
- The noise should suddenly go away after a few minutes running.
- Run [multiple] warm/hot power balances
- Make sure every cylinder drop is no more than 25 rpm variance.
- If you have not dropped the oil pan, run an oil pressure check.
- This might tell you if the oil pickup is clogged with guide debris.
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"

By: Tangalora ———————————————————————– SUMMARY: 90-93 Q45 chain guide repair (hints, suggestions, procedures): ———————————————————————– Formulate a basic overview understanding of the situation at hand: The whole chain is under tension; but we use tension & slack terminology. The crankshaft pulls on the straight leg of the chain (the tension side). Then (terminologically) the curved leg is […]

Z32: Fuel Controller/Computer replacement

by 

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                    [post_content] => Since searching around on the internet revealed this is becoming a more common problem as the 300zx ages, I figured I'd address it.

If you have the symptom that you turn your key off and remove it and your Z won't shut off, it is most likely your fuel controller. Removal and replacement is simple and straight forward.

Tools needed :
Phillips screwdriver
10mm socket with extension on ratchet

Start by removing the two interior panels shown below...they just pop off.


Next fold back the trunk mat to expose 4 phillips screws holding the package tray to the trunk floor (red circles) Then remove the 4 ten mm nuts that hold the package tray down on the top side (also red circles) and remove the package tray.


Once that is removed you will see two 10mm head phillips bolts at the back edge of the center console riser that butts up to the package tray. Remove those two bolts.

On the sides of the center console riser there are two phillips screws under black plastic bolt covers, one on the drivers side next to the seat, one on the passenger side next to the seat. Pop open the covers and remove the screws. Now you can remove the center console riser.

Next, back up top where you removed the drivers side cover in the first step, you will most likely see a "package" that contains the headlight aiming tools. Remove that and toss it aside.

Once you do that you will see one phillips screw/10mm bolt that holds the interior trim piece (grey tweed unless reupholstered otherwise) that runs behind the drivers seat. Remove that screw. The trim piece is held into the side trim below the b-pillar by a plastic snap. Wiggle it a little and pop it out. Set the trim piece aside.

Your interior should look something like this now


From here you can easily see the fuel computer, but it is much easier to access and remove if you take out the black felt covered lower trim pieces that is behind the seat. This is held in by plastic snaps and one phillips screw which is under a black plastic bolt cover. Remove this piece and you will see the following.


Here's what you're after.


There is another computer on top of the fuel computer. Simply remove the two 10mm nuts and swing it out of the way. You will see the fuel computer.


Unplug the harness and remove the fuel computer.

Follow the steps in reverse for re-installation. Also, keep in mind that there is a lot of insulation, sound deadening material, and other junk under the panels.I don't have any of it in my car, it just adds weight. Put it back in if you wish.

New the fuel controllers are big money, but they can be had used in good working condition anywhere from $25-$200 depending on how lucky you are and if the seller knows what they have.

Hope this helps out anybody who searches for info on how to do it.
                    [post_title] => Z32: Fuel Controller/Computer replacement 
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                    [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:24:46
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            [post_content] => Since searching around on the internet revealed this is becoming a more common problem as the 300zx ages, I figured I'd address it.

If you have the symptom that you turn your key off and remove it and your Z won't shut off, it is most likely your fuel controller. Removal and replacement is simple and straight forward.

Tools needed :
Phillips screwdriver
10mm socket with extension on ratchet

Start by removing the two interior panels shown below...they just pop off.


Next fold back the trunk mat to expose 4 phillips screws holding the package tray to the trunk floor (red circles) Then remove the 4 ten mm nuts that hold the package tray down on the top side (also red circles) and remove the package tray.


Once that is removed you will see two 10mm head phillips bolts at the back edge of the center console riser that butts up to the package tray. Remove those two bolts.

On the sides of the center console riser there are two phillips screws under black plastic bolt covers, one on the drivers side next to the seat, one on the passenger side next to the seat. Pop open the covers and remove the screws. Now you can remove the center console riser.

Next, back up top where you removed the drivers side cover in the first step, you will most likely see a "package" that contains the headlight aiming tools. Remove that and toss it aside.

Once you do that you will see one phillips screw/10mm bolt that holds the interior trim piece (grey tweed unless reupholstered otherwise) that runs behind the drivers seat. Remove that screw. The trim piece is held into the side trim below the b-pillar by a plastic snap. Wiggle it a little and pop it out. Set the trim piece aside.

Your interior should look something like this now


From here you can easily see the fuel computer, but it is much easier to access and remove if you take out the black felt covered lower trim pieces that is behind the seat. This is held in by plastic snaps and one phillips screw which is under a black plastic bolt cover. Remove this piece and you will see the following.


Here's what you're after.


There is another computer on top of the fuel computer. Simply remove the two 10mm nuts and swing it out of the way. You will see the fuel computer.


Unplug the harness and remove the fuel computer.

Follow the steps in reverse for re-installation. Also, keep in mind that there is a lot of insulation, sound deadening material, and other junk under the panels.I don't have any of it in my car, it just adds weight. Put it back in if you wish.

New the fuel controllers are big money, but they can be had used in good working condition anywhere from $25-$200 depending on how lucky you are and if the seller knows what they have.

Hope this helps out anybody who searches for info on how to do it.
            [post_title] => Z32: Fuel Controller/Computer replacement 
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"

Since searching around on the internet revealed this is becoming a more common problem as the 300zx ages, I figured I’d address it. If you have the symptom that you turn your key off and remove it and your Z won’t shut off, it is most likely your fuel controller. Removal and replacement is simple […]

Infiniti G35 Clutch Replacement

by 

"infiniti-g35-clutch-replacement"
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                    [post_content] => How to replace a clutch in a 03-07 Infiniti 6 speed.

Now as a word of precaution I must start by saying this is not something I would recommend doing in your driveway as the transmission is not only pretty heavy but there are bolts that need to accessed on the top of the bell housing. These directions will be from the perspective of those who have a lift.

REMOVAL

1. Start by removing the negative battery cable.
*While the car is on the ground make sure that its in neutral and
the parking brake is off. 

2. After waiting three minutes raise the car and get the necessary tools ready, and if you see rust on any of the bolts that will be removed it is a wise idea to apply penetrating oil now.


3. Once you have everything laid out start by removing the Y pipe and gaskets and set them aside. (6 14mm nuts)

4. Mark the drive shaft current position with paint, finger nail polish works well too.

*Once it is marked remove the 17mm nuts attaching the half shaft
to the carrier bearing. (A thin wall 3/8" socket with a 1/2" adapter
works best) Infiniti recommends replacing these four bolts
whenever they are removed and I always do.

*Be extra careful when setting the shaft on the ground as any
damage to the yolk cover will cause an awful noise.

5. Remove the black rubber cover that connects the shifter to the transmission. Remove the bolt and set aside

*There is a 12mm bolt here its easily identified in a pile as the
only one with grease on it.

6. Remove the small black plastic cover under the bell housing.
Remove the black metal cross bar 6 14mm bolts and 2 19mm
bolts
Next remove the two 14mm bolt facing the front of the car. On
the lower part of the bellhousing.

7.Remove the 4 14mm nuts securing the catalysts to the transmission
*Penetrating oil may be needed

8. Next remove the 2 12mm bolts securing the clutch slave cylinder and set it aside, but do not disconnect the line as it is not necessary.

9. On the drivers side of the transmission there to the right of the steering shaft you will notice a plate for the RH drive models, This needs to be removed.

*There are 2 14mm bolts one forward facing and one rearward.

10. Disconnect the started solenoid plug and the crank position sensor 1 10mm bolt. Remove the the reverse sensor and neutral switch and compress the tabs on the harness to remove them or remove the 10mm bolts securing the harness tie downs.
*Set the wiring harness aside (I usually rest it on top of the cats
to keep it from getting damaged)

11. Remove the 4 12mm bolts securing the gear shift mount, and face it rearward
*I find that Snap On ratchet wrenches work best for this


12. On the right side of the engine remove the 1 14mm and 1 17mm starter mounting bolts.
*Removal is not usually necessary it can be set back and not get
in the way.

13. There is a 17mm bolt located on the motor side and secures the engine and trans
*A stubby or ratchet wrench works best here

14. Put a transmission jack under the transmission main housing and secure it using a strap or appropriate hold down.

15. Remove the 4 14mm bolts on the rear mount bolts.

16. Lower the transmission almost as much as it will go
*Not too far so as not to damage the motor mounts

17. Remove the 6 17mm transmission bellhousing bolts

18. Wiggle the transmission loose and pull it a STRAIGHT back.

INSPECTION

1. Inspect the movement of the release bearing and it's operations.
*It should always be replaced and the bell housing cleaned.
*If the pivot fork is removed be sure to add a small amount of
grease to the ball.

2. Remove the 8 12mm bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel.
*Be sure to keep the bolts and washers together.
*The clutch plate will fall out when removed.

3. Inspect the condition of all mating surfaces any bluing or cracks indicate overheating and it is HIGHLY recommended that the flywheel,disc, and plate be replaced.

4. Remove the flywheel with the 8 T50 torx bit bolts.

5. IT IS CRITICAL TO NOTE THE POSITION OF THE SMALL DIMPLE ON THE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE CRANKSHAFT WHEN REINSTALLING THE NEW FLYWHEEL IT IS VITAL THAT THE MARK ON THE FLYWHEEL AND THE MATING MARK LINE UP.


6. When replacing the pilot bearing a special tool is required to prevent damage to the crankshaft.
6.1 Install the puller and adjust it until tight, use the slide
hammer to carefully remove the old bearing
*Keep the new bearing clean and free of grease
6.2 Take the new bearing and using an appropriate driver install
it into the crankshaft until the tone generated changes.

INSTALLATION

1. When the flywheel is installed be sure tighten using a cross pattern.

2. Install the correct clutch alignment tool into the input shaft hole in the crankshaft.
*I usually apply some anti-sieze to tool, so when the clutch disc
is slid over it the complete lenth of the splines are covered.

3. Slide the clutch disc into position making sure the springs are facing the rear of the car.

4. Now install the clutch pressure plate, securing the bolts in finger tight at this point.

5. Proceed with tightening the bolts in the diagram located here

A TWO STEP TORQUE PROCESS IS REQUIRED
5.1 First, tighten the pressure plate using the above figure to
11FT-LB/14Nm
5.2 Second apply final torque in the above mentioned figure to
29FT-LB/35Nm

6. Remove the alignment tool.

7. Now inspect the bellhousing mating surface to ensure there is no damage/debris that will inhibit proper fitment. Be sure to verify that BOTH dowel pins are installed on either side of the bellhousing.

8. Position the transmission behind the motor and slowly align the dowel pins and ensure fitment of the input shaft into the pilot bearing before applying pressure.

9. Once the transmission is mated correctly with no gap install the bellhousing bolts finger tight. Be sure to reinstall the air breather tube.
9.1 Tighten the bolts in the manner listed in this figure.

9.2 Re route the hiring harness back into position, as it is much
easier to access now.
*Pay close attention to not hyper extend the harness

10. Raise the tranmission to the point to where you can get the shifter bracket can be reconnected. Install the (4 12mm bolts).

11. Install the bolts for the rear transmission mount,(4 14mm short w/ wide flange).

12. Install the bolt above the starter (17mm head) if not previously installed.

12. Install the starter and reconnect the starter solenoid connector, and install the crank position sensor.

13. Install the RH drive starter cover.

14. Reposition the clutch driven (slave) cylinder and tighten.

15. Reinstall the catalyst brace and large black crossmember, as well as the black splash shield.

16. Now verify the transmission is in neutral by moving the gear selector shaft in a clockwise/counter clockwise manner and postion the fork with the shaft containing the bushing. Install and tighten the greasy bolt.

17. Install the rubber dust cover securely in the groove in the round housing.

18. Match the driveshaft segment with the paint marks and install the new bolts and finger tighten.

19. Torque the new rear bolts to 61FT-LBS/83Nm

20. Reinstall the exhaust and tighten the flange nuts.

VERIFICATION OF REPAIR

1. Lower the vehicle

2. Pump the clutch several times until a proper pedal is felt. (bleeding may be necessary)

3. Start the car and raise the wheels off the ground.

4. Turn the VDC off and verify that the transmission operates in all forward gears and reverse without noise.

5. Stop the wheel, apply the parking brake and lower the car.

6. Take the car for a road test, clutch pedal adjustment may be needed or additional bleeding or flushing of the system.

7. Drive the car carefully for the next 1,000 miles or whatever the manufacturer recommends to allow proper time to break in
                    [post_title] => Infiniti G35 Clutch Replacement
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            [post_content] => How to replace a clutch in a 03-07 Infiniti 6 speed.

Now as a word of precaution I must start by saying this is not something I would recommend doing in your driveway as the transmission is not only pretty heavy but there are bolts that need to accessed on the top of the bell housing. These directions will be from the perspective of those who have a lift.

REMOVAL

1. Start by removing the negative battery cable.
*While the car is on the ground make sure that its in neutral and
the parking brake is off. 

2. After waiting three minutes raise the car and get the necessary tools ready, and if you see rust on any of the bolts that will be removed it is a wise idea to apply penetrating oil now.


3. Once you have everything laid out start by removing the Y pipe and gaskets and set them aside. (6 14mm nuts)

4. Mark the drive shaft current position with paint, finger nail polish works well too.

*Once it is marked remove the 17mm nuts attaching the half shaft
to the carrier bearing. (A thin wall 3/8" socket with a 1/2" adapter
works best) Infiniti recommends replacing these four bolts
whenever they are removed and I always do.

*Be extra careful when setting the shaft on the ground as any
damage to the yolk cover will cause an awful noise.

5. Remove the black rubber cover that connects the shifter to the transmission. Remove the bolt and set aside

*There is a 12mm bolt here its easily identified in a pile as the
only one with grease on it.

6. Remove the small black plastic cover under the bell housing.
Remove the black metal cross bar 6 14mm bolts and 2 19mm
bolts
Next remove the two 14mm bolt facing the front of the car. On
the lower part of the bellhousing.

7.Remove the 4 14mm nuts securing the catalysts to the transmission
*Penetrating oil may be needed

8. Next remove the 2 12mm bolts securing the clutch slave cylinder and set it aside, but do not disconnect the line as it is not necessary.

9. On the drivers side of the transmission there to the right of the steering shaft you will notice a plate for the RH drive models, This needs to be removed.

*There are 2 14mm bolts one forward facing and one rearward.

10. Disconnect the started solenoid plug and the crank position sensor 1 10mm bolt. Remove the the reverse sensor and neutral switch and compress the tabs on the harness to remove them or remove the 10mm bolts securing the harness tie downs.
*Set the wiring harness aside (I usually rest it on top of the cats
to keep it from getting damaged)

11. Remove the 4 12mm bolts securing the gear shift mount, and face it rearward
*I find that Snap On ratchet wrenches work best for this


12. On the right side of the engine remove the 1 14mm and 1 17mm starter mounting bolts.
*Removal is not usually necessary it can be set back and not get
in the way.

13. There is a 17mm bolt located on the motor side and secures the engine and trans
*A stubby or ratchet wrench works best here

14. Put a transmission jack under the transmission main housing and secure it using a strap or appropriate hold down.

15. Remove the 4 14mm bolts on the rear mount bolts.

16. Lower the transmission almost as much as it will go
*Not too far so as not to damage the motor mounts

17. Remove the 6 17mm transmission bellhousing bolts

18. Wiggle the transmission loose and pull it a STRAIGHT back.

INSPECTION

1. Inspect the movement of the release bearing and it's operations.
*It should always be replaced and the bell housing cleaned.
*If the pivot fork is removed be sure to add a small amount of
grease to the ball.

2. Remove the 8 12mm bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel.
*Be sure to keep the bolts and washers together.
*The clutch plate will fall out when removed.

3. Inspect the condition of all mating surfaces any bluing or cracks indicate overheating and it is HIGHLY recommended that the flywheel,disc, and plate be replaced.

4. Remove the flywheel with the 8 T50 torx bit bolts.

5. IT IS CRITICAL TO NOTE THE POSITION OF THE SMALL DIMPLE ON THE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE CRANKSHAFT WHEN REINSTALLING THE NEW FLYWHEEL IT IS VITAL THAT THE MARK ON THE FLYWHEEL AND THE MATING MARK LINE UP.


6. When replacing the pilot bearing a special tool is required to prevent damage to the crankshaft.
6.1 Install the puller and adjust it until tight, use the slide
hammer to carefully remove the old bearing
*Keep the new bearing clean and free of grease
6.2 Take the new bearing and using an appropriate driver install
it into the crankshaft until the tone generated changes.

INSTALLATION

1. When the flywheel is installed be sure tighten using a cross pattern.

2. Install the correct clutch alignment tool into the input shaft hole in the crankshaft.
*I usually apply some anti-sieze to tool, so when the clutch disc
is slid over it the complete lenth of the splines are covered.

3. Slide the clutch disc into position making sure the springs are facing the rear of the car.

4. Now install the clutch pressure plate, securing the bolts in finger tight at this point.

5. Proceed with tightening the bolts in the diagram located here

A TWO STEP TORQUE PROCESS IS REQUIRED
5.1 First, tighten the pressure plate using the above figure to
11FT-LB/14Nm
5.2 Second apply final torque in the above mentioned figure to
29FT-LB/35Nm

6. Remove the alignment tool.

7. Now inspect the bellhousing mating surface to ensure there is no damage/debris that will inhibit proper fitment. Be sure to verify that BOTH dowel pins are installed on either side of the bellhousing.

8. Position the transmission behind the motor and slowly align the dowel pins and ensure fitment of the input shaft into the pilot bearing before applying pressure.

9. Once the transmission is mated correctly with no gap install the bellhousing bolts finger tight. Be sure to reinstall the air breather tube.
9.1 Tighten the bolts in the manner listed in this figure.

9.2 Re route the hiring harness back into position, as it is much
easier to access now.
*Pay close attention to not hyper extend the harness

10. Raise the tranmission to the point to where you can get the shifter bracket can be reconnected. Install the (4 12mm bolts).

11. Install the bolts for the rear transmission mount,(4 14mm short w/ wide flange).

12. Install the bolt above the starter (17mm head) if not previously installed.

12. Install the starter and reconnect the starter solenoid connector, and install the crank position sensor.

13. Install the RH drive starter cover.

14. Reposition the clutch driven (slave) cylinder and tighten.

15. Reinstall the catalyst brace and large black crossmember, as well as the black splash shield.

16. Now verify the transmission is in neutral by moving the gear selector shaft in a clockwise/counter clockwise manner and postion the fork with the shaft containing the bushing. Install and tighten the greasy bolt.

17. Install the rubber dust cover securely in the groove in the round housing.

18. Match the driveshaft segment with the paint marks and install the new bolts and finger tighten.

19. Torque the new rear bolts to 61FT-LBS/83Nm

20. Reinstall the exhaust and tighten the flange nuts.

VERIFICATION OF REPAIR

1. Lower the vehicle

2. Pump the clutch several times until a proper pedal is felt. (bleeding may be necessary)

3. Start the car and raise the wheels off the ground.

4. Turn the VDC off and verify that the transmission operates in all forward gears and reverse without noise.

5. Stop the wheel, apply the parking brake and lower the car.

6. Take the car for a road test, clutch pedal adjustment may be needed or additional bleeding or flushing of the system.

7. Drive the car carefully for the next 1,000 miles or whatever the manufacturer recommends to allow proper time to break in
            [post_title] => Infiniti G35 Clutch Replacement
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            [pinged] => 
            [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:45:49
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How to replace a clutch in a 03-07 Infiniti 6 speed. Now as a word of precaution I must start by saying this is not something I would recommend doing in your driveway as the transmission is not only pretty heavy but there are bolts that need to accessed on the top of the bell […]