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Infiniti Q45 Rough Idle Diagnosis

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                    [post_content] => Resolving Rough Idle
By Jesda Gulati

 
Fuel Injectors - Bad gas or regional mixtures tend to result in
early injector failures. A fuel smell in the cabin also hints
at injector problems. Non-OEM injectors are not recommended.
Learn how to test your injectors

Fuel System- Purchase a can of BG44k
from Infiniti of Scottsdale and add it to a 3/4 tank of gas.
Repeat this in 2 months. Chevron w/Techron can be used every
3000 miles if BG44k is not available. However, despite being
the best off-the-shelf choice, it is not nearly as effective
or cost-efficient. Gas-line water remover (such as Heet or
GasDry) ought to be added to every tank of fuel that contains
ethanol.

A fuel rail flush typically costs around $130 at a dealer.
Electrical - A bad
alternator, battery, battery cables or terminals will fail to
properly charge the battery and can cause idle
fluctuations. Optima is the preferred brand of battery for the
Q45. A temporary fix is to charge the battery using a separate
charger, or have a place like Autozone
do it for you.
MAF Sensor
- Steps on how to clean it for $3. A failed MAF (mass air
flow) sensor or MAF connector can cause
fluctuating idle, stalling, and bucking at any speed. The MAF
connector changed in 1995. A MAF or connector can be purchased
from Scottsdale Infiniti. A used MAF may work as well.

Throttle Body - Steps on how to partially clean it for $3.


Auxilary Air Control - How to clean the AAC for improved idle and
cruise.

Knock Sensors or KS
Bad Gas
Seafoam
 Oxygen Sensors or O2 Sensors
Crank Angle Sensor or CAS
Throttle Position Sensor
or TPS
 


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            [post_content] => Resolving Rough Idle
By Jesda Gulati

 
Fuel Injectors - Bad gas or regional mixtures tend to result in
early injector failures. A fuel smell in the cabin also hints
at injector problems. Non-OEM injectors are not recommended.
Learn how to test your injectors

Fuel System- Purchase a can of BG44k
from Infiniti of Scottsdale and add it to a 3/4 tank of gas.
Repeat this in 2 months. Chevron w/Techron can be used every
3000 miles if BG44k is not available. However, despite being
the best off-the-shelf choice, it is not nearly as effective
or cost-efficient. Gas-line water remover (such as Heet or
GasDry) ought to be added to every tank of fuel that contains
ethanol.

A fuel rail flush typically costs around $130 at a dealer.
Electrical - A bad
alternator, battery, battery cables or terminals will fail to
properly charge the battery and can cause idle
fluctuations. Optima is the preferred brand of battery for the
Q45. A temporary fix is to charge the battery using a separate
charger, or have a place like Autozone
do it for you.
MAF Sensor
- Steps on how to clean it for $3. A failed MAF (mass air
flow) sensor or MAF connector can cause
fluctuating idle, stalling, and bucking at any speed. The MAF
connector changed in 1995. A MAF or connector can be purchased
from Scottsdale Infiniti. A used MAF may work as well.

Throttle Body - Steps on how to partially clean it for $3.


Auxilary Air Control - How to clean the AAC for improved idle and
cruise.

Knock Sensors or KS
Bad Gas
Seafoam
 Oxygen Sensors or O2 Sensors
Crank Angle Sensor or CAS
Throttle Position Sensor
or TPS
 


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Resolving Rough IdleBy Jesda Gulati Fuel Injectors – Bad gas or regional mixtures tend to result inearly injector failures. A fuel smell in the cabin also hintsat injector problems. Non-OEM injectors are not recommended.Learn how to test your injectors Fuel System- Purchase a can of BG44kfrom Infiniti of Scottsdale and add it to a 3/4 […]

Altima 3.5 Injen Short Ram Intake Install

by 

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                    [post_content] => Okay, first off, I'd like to say that the installation is quite simple and straight forward. If you have basic mechanical skills, it shouldn't take more than 40-45 minutes tops. I have a lot of experience with installing intakes, exhausts, headers, etc., and it only took me 35 minutes, but that's because I took pics along the way; otherwise, it would've taken me about 25 minutes. I didn't even use the provided instructions because everything was pretty self-explanatory.
But, and it's a big BUT, if you don't know the difference between a hex wrench, open-end wrench, torque wrench, or a ratchet, please do not attempt this on your own. Please have a qualified professional or someone with good mechanical knowledge to help you out.
My impressions of the INJEN intake? I absolutely love it! Throttle response has noticeably improved. It looks great in the engine bay and it sounds fantastic! I've always loved the way the G35's and 350Z's sound, and this makes the Altima sound very close to those cars. No exaggeration here, it really does. I knew that the G35's sound came from the motor and not really the exhaust (like most people think) and this intake just proved it. I know with a more open exhaust with straight-through mufflers, these Altima's will sound almost identical to the G35 and 350Z. 
I lay everything out to make the install easier. No looking around for parts.
Remove the factory filter.
Unscrew the clamps holding the hose from the filter box to throttle body.
Remove MAF sensor by pushing clip and pulling up and out.
Use a plier to remove tension hose clamp from crank case breather box.
Remove crank case box from air box.
Use 10mm socket to remove screw holding air box down. It's located behind the top air box on the right side.
Remove entire air box from engine bay.
This is what it should look like after air box removal.
Parts removed from engine up to this point. Top and bottom of air box and crank case vent box.
Install INJEN hose over CCV box port and use the 2 clamps supplied.
Install vibra mount right below where CCV box was located. There's an existing 10mm bolt, just remove and replace.
Install brackets onto filter head, line up heat-shield and center heat-shield. Slide filter into brackets and tighten hose clamp around filter head. 
Place large INJEN hose onto throttle body and tighten 2 hose clamps.
Place short ram intake onto viba-mount but don't tighten yet.
Run intake into hose connected to throttle body.
Screw down MAF adapter plate onto new intake.
Plug MAF into adapter located on new intake.
Install CCV box onto new intake and screw down hose clamp.
Install new filter onto open end of intake tubing and tighten hose clamps.
Adjust and tighten all remaining screws, bolts and hose clamps. 
Finished installation
Oh yeah, one last thing. There is a remaining hose which comes out from the crank case into the factory air box. There is no new location for this small hose so I wedged it between the filter and the heat-shield.

Tutorial by Generic808
                    [post_title] => Altima 3.5 Injen Short Ram Intake Install
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            [post_content] => Okay, first off, I'd like to say that the installation is quite simple and straight forward. If you have basic mechanical skills, it shouldn't take more than 40-45 minutes tops. I have a lot of experience with installing intakes, exhausts, headers, etc., and it only took me 35 minutes, but that's because I took pics along the way; otherwise, it would've taken me about 25 minutes. I didn't even use the provided instructions because everything was pretty self-explanatory.
But, and it's a big BUT, if you don't know the difference between a hex wrench, open-end wrench, torque wrench, or a ratchet, please do not attempt this on your own. Please have a qualified professional or someone with good mechanical knowledge to help you out.
My impressions of the INJEN intake? I absolutely love it! Throttle response has noticeably improved. It looks great in the engine bay and it sounds fantastic! I've always loved the way the G35's and 350Z's sound, and this makes the Altima sound very close to those cars. No exaggeration here, it really does. I knew that the G35's sound came from the motor and not really the exhaust (like most people think) and this intake just proved it. I know with a more open exhaust with straight-through mufflers, these Altima's will sound almost identical to the G35 and 350Z. 
I lay everything out to make the install easier. No looking around for parts.
Remove the factory filter.
Unscrew the clamps holding the hose from the filter box to throttle body.
Remove MAF sensor by pushing clip and pulling up and out.
Use a plier to remove tension hose clamp from crank case breather box.
Remove crank case box from air box.
Use 10mm socket to remove screw holding air box down. It's located behind the top air box on the right side.
Remove entire air box from engine bay.
This is what it should look like after air box removal.
Parts removed from engine up to this point. Top and bottom of air box and crank case vent box.
Install INJEN hose over CCV box port and use the 2 clamps supplied.
Install vibra mount right below where CCV box was located. There's an existing 10mm bolt, just remove and replace.
Install brackets onto filter head, line up heat-shield and center heat-shield. Slide filter into brackets and tighten hose clamp around filter head. 
Place large INJEN hose onto throttle body and tighten 2 hose clamps.
Place short ram intake onto viba-mount but don't tighten yet.
Run intake into hose connected to throttle body.
Screw down MAF adapter plate onto new intake.
Plug MAF into adapter located on new intake.
Install CCV box onto new intake and screw down hose clamp.
Install new filter onto open end of intake tubing and tighten hose clamps.
Adjust and tighten all remaining screws, bolts and hose clamps. 
Finished installation
Oh yeah, one last thing. There is a remaining hose which comes out from the crank case into the factory air box. There is no new location for this small hose so I wedged it between the filter and the heat-shield.

Tutorial by Generic808
            [post_title] => Altima 3.5 Injen Short Ram Intake Install
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Okay, first off, I’d like to say that the installation is quite simple and straight forward. If you have basic mechanical skills, it shouldn’t take more than 40-45 minutes tops. I have a lot of experience with installing intakes, exhausts, headers, etc., and it only took me 35 minutes, but that’s because I took pics […]

Maxima throttle body cleaning

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                    [post_content] => Ok, so most of us are driving around 10 year old machines with a bunch of miles. Some of us like going very fast, some like gas mileage. Some like both. Here is a writeup on how to do a real (not dealer cop out) cleaning of your throttle body. This is done on a 95 Maxima SE.
Materials needed:
throttle body cleaner
gray form-a-gasket (sensor safe or a Nissan tb gasket)
maf cleaner
some rags
a flathead screwdriver
12mm socket
pliers
about 2-3 hours (max)
materials i used. carb cleaner is not sensor safe and should be avoided. 
Step one, open the hood.
Now, you will see the Mass Airflow Sensor and Throttle Body.
Using your flathead, take off all your tubing. Disconnect the connections on the MAF and TB (easly push in release) 
This is easy, just hold open the throttle, push the cable forward and pop out the little connections. Next take off the 4 12mm bolts. Once the bolts are out, you will notice 3 hoses to the bottom of the tb. The small one is a vaccum line. The other 2 with clamps are coolant lines for the cold idle control. Disconnect them, you will spill a few ounces of coolant just man up, and wipe it off.
Now you have a good mess in front of you. This is oil buildup from the PCV. 
The intake
Now, the messy part. On the MAF, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CLEANER CAN!!! You are shooting it here.
Now set aside and let dry. Move on to the TB. The smart guys at Nissan (at least my year) made the tps sensor the only one on the TB, so nothing needs to get removed to clean it. I did notice that it has adjustable positions and i'll do a followup on tps positioning for better performance once i find my ohm meter.
So spray the crap on the TB with the cleaner and wipe off. Make sure to open the TB and get inside it real good. Ok so set the sucker aside for a few, to dry up. The intake manifold has some sensors in it, so I stuffed a rag deep in the sprayed the crap out of it and wiped it clean. Don't forget to remove the rag.
Now is a good time to check over your fuel filter or change the oil. I like to use a filtermag on my oil filters, it really grabs junk out. just stick it on. i have used these on my commuter car, my 640hp camaro road track car and my 1500hp nova track car. 
Ok now its time to reassemble. My TB gasket was in good shape so i just reused it, otherwise use a good amount of the form-a-gasket around the tb and stick it on. Don't forget to reconnect the coolant lines and vaccume line or......(see below). Also make sure you put the MAF on the right way. It has an arrow to help you not screw it up. If your using the form-a-gasket let it sit for about an hour after bolting everything up to set. Perfect time to grab a beer.
Now your ready to restart. After starting the car DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING!! Just let it idle for a min or 2. The computer needs to reset to the faster moving air.Let it sit while you clean up your tools, then take it for a spin, and enjoy.
 Article by: flyboy367 

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            [post_content] => Ok, so most of us are driving around 10 year old machines with a bunch of miles. Some of us like going very fast, some like gas mileage. Some like both. Here is a writeup on how to do a real (not dealer cop out) cleaning of your throttle body. This is done on a 95 Maxima SE.
Materials needed:
throttle body cleaner
gray form-a-gasket (sensor safe or a Nissan tb gasket)
maf cleaner
some rags
a flathead screwdriver
12mm socket
pliers
about 2-3 hours (max)
materials i used. carb cleaner is not sensor safe and should be avoided. 
Step one, open the hood.
Now, you will see the Mass Airflow Sensor and Throttle Body.
Using your flathead, take off all your tubing. Disconnect the connections on the MAF and TB (easly push in release) 
This is easy, just hold open the throttle, push the cable forward and pop out the little connections. Next take off the 4 12mm bolts. Once the bolts are out, you will notice 3 hoses to the bottom of the tb. The small one is a vaccum line. The other 2 with clamps are coolant lines for the cold idle control. Disconnect them, you will spill a few ounces of coolant just man up, and wipe it off.
Now you have a good mess in front of you. This is oil buildup from the PCV. 
The intake
Now, the messy part. On the MAF, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CLEANER CAN!!! You are shooting it here.
Now set aside and let dry. Move on to the TB. The smart guys at Nissan (at least my year) made the tps sensor the only one on the TB, so nothing needs to get removed to clean it. I did notice that it has adjustable positions and i'll do a followup on tps positioning for better performance once i find my ohm meter.
So spray the crap on the TB with the cleaner and wipe off. Make sure to open the TB and get inside it real good. Ok so set the sucker aside for a few, to dry up. The intake manifold has some sensors in it, so I stuffed a rag deep in the sprayed the crap out of it and wiped it clean. Don't forget to remove the rag.
Now is a good time to check over your fuel filter or change the oil. I like to use a filtermag on my oil filters, it really grabs junk out. just stick it on. i have used these on my commuter car, my 640hp camaro road track car and my 1500hp nova track car. 
Ok now its time to reassemble. My TB gasket was in good shape so i just reused it, otherwise use a good amount of the form-a-gasket around the tb and stick it on. Don't forget to reconnect the coolant lines and vaccume line or......(see below). Also make sure you put the MAF on the right way. It has an arrow to help you not screw it up. If your using the form-a-gasket let it sit for about an hour after bolting everything up to set. Perfect time to grab a beer.
Now your ready to restart. After starting the car DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING!! Just let it idle for a min or 2. The computer needs to reset to the faster moving air.Let it sit while you clean up your tools, then take it for a spin, and enjoy.
 Article by: flyboy367 

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Ok, so most of us are driving around 10 year old machines with a bunch of miles. Some of us like going very fast, some like gas mileage. Some like both. Here is a writeup on how to do a real (not dealer cop out) cleaning of your throttle body. This is done on a […]

Installing Cruise Control for SR20DET Swapped 240sx

by 

"installing-cruise-control-for-sr20det-swapped-240sx"
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                    [post_date] => 2009-12-10 13:23:43
                    [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 20:23:43
                    [post_content] => The car is a 1990 s13 with a redtop SR.
Parts:
KA throttle body
Short piece of electrical wire (about 1.5 feet)
Procedure:
First things first, swap over the throttle body from your old KA onto the SR. Next, there are two different ways you could go. What seems like the easiest is to use the KA throttle cable bracket as well since it can accommodate both the throttle and cruise control cables.
You will need to first drill out the holes in the bracket a little. You must also grind off the back of the bracket. This is so you can position the bracket in such a way that the cables aren't pulling crooked when opening the throttle.
Here is the KA bracket after I modified it to work. 
The other method is to get a piece of sheet metal and fabricate your own bracket. It would probably be easiest to make a mock one out of cardboard, and then trace it onto the metal. Cut it out and bend it in a vise.
Hook up the throttle cable and cruise cables to the throttle body. It may now be necessary to adjust them. Loosen both nuts on the cables until there is slack, then tighten them down until they are just tight, but not holding the throttle plate open at all. Tighten the nuts back down.
Everything that needs to be done under the hood is now complete. Now get ready to curl up into a ball under the dashboard! You will need to remove the passenger side kick panel to expose the ECU.
Once you see the ECU, take out the 2x 10mm bolts holding it in place. Once that is out of the way, you will see a small brass-colored module that looks like a smaller version of your ECU. This is the cruise control module. It is also held in place by 2x 10mm bolts, but they are both on the same side, rather than on top and bottom like the ECU. Unbolt it.
ECU on the left, you can see the cruise module still bolted to the body:
This is where the electrical wire come into play. You need to jump the speed signal from the ECU to the Cruise Control Module. If you look at the connector on the cruise module, you will see a wire that is yellow with a green stripe. It is for the speed signal. Cut this wire about 2 inches up from the connector. Now solder your piece of wire to the end of the yellow w/ green stripe wire that is still connected to the cruise module. Bolt the Cruise module back into place.
Now back to the ECU. There will be that same yellow with green stripe wire coming from your ECU connector. When you completed your SR swap you actually had to cut it and match it up to another wire on the connector that runs up into the dash. That is where the speed signal, tach signal, and other things go up to your gauge cluster. I just connected my "speed signal jumper wire" into that same spot, using a 3 way connector (this is so the speed signal still reaches your speedometer).
So now you have jumped the speed signal from the ECU to the cruise control module. Bolt your ECU back into place to make sure it is grounded, and put your kick panel back into place. Enjoy cruise control.

                    [post_title] => Installing Cruise Control for SR20DET Swapped 240sx
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                    [post_modified] => 2011-02-23 21:41:52
                    [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-02-24 04:41:52
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            [post_content] => The car is a 1990 s13 with a redtop SR.
Parts:
KA throttle body
Short piece of electrical wire (about 1.5 feet)
Procedure:
First things first, swap over the throttle body from your old KA onto the SR. Next, there are two different ways you could go. What seems like the easiest is to use the KA throttle cable bracket as well since it can accommodate both the throttle and cruise control cables.
You will need to first drill out the holes in the bracket a little. You must also grind off the back of the bracket. This is so you can position the bracket in such a way that the cables aren't pulling crooked when opening the throttle.
Here is the KA bracket after I modified it to work. 
The other method is to get a piece of sheet metal and fabricate your own bracket. It would probably be easiest to make a mock one out of cardboard, and then trace it onto the metal. Cut it out and bend it in a vise.
Hook up the throttle cable and cruise cables to the throttle body. It may now be necessary to adjust them. Loosen both nuts on the cables until there is slack, then tighten them down until they are just tight, but not holding the throttle plate open at all. Tighten the nuts back down.
Everything that needs to be done under the hood is now complete. Now get ready to curl up into a ball under the dashboard! You will need to remove the passenger side kick panel to expose the ECU.
Once you see the ECU, take out the 2x 10mm bolts holding it in place. Once that is out of the way, you will see a small brass-colored module that looks like a smaller version of your ECU. This is the cruise control module. It is also held in place by 2x 10mm bolts, but they are both on the same side, rather than on top and bottom like the ECU. Unbolt it.
ECU on the left, you can see the cruise module still bolted to the body:
This is where the electrical wire come into play. You need to jump the speed signal from the ECU to the Cruise Control Module. If you look at the connector on the cruise module, you will see a wire that is yellow with a green stripe. It is for the speed signal. Cut this wire about 2 inches up from the connector. Now solder your piece of wire to the end of the yellow w/ green stripe wire that is still connected to the cruise module. Bolt the Cruise module back into place.
Now back to the ECU. There will be that same yellow with green stripe wire coming from your ECU connector. When you completed your SR swap you actually had to cut it and match it up to another wire on the connector that runs up into the dash. That is where the speed signal, tach signal, and other things go up to your gauge cluster. I just connected my "speed signal jumper wire" into that same spot, using a 3 way connector (this is so the speed signal still reaches your speedometer).
So now you have jumped the speed signal from the ECU to the cruise control module. Bolt your ECU back into place to make sure it is grounded, and put your kick panel back into place. Enjoy cruise control.

            [post_title] => Installing Cruise Control for SR20DET Swapped 240sx
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"

The car is a 1990 s13 with a redtop SR. Parts:KA throttle bodyShort piece of electrical wire (about 1.5 feet) Procedure:First things first, swap over the throttle body from your old KA onto the SR. Next, there are two different ways you could go. What seems like the easiest is to use the KA throttle […]