Datsun 240Z restoration and modification – Part 15

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                    [post_date] => 2011-03-01 22:58:09
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Welcome back!  Hope you enjoyed the introduction to this build.  

For the first several months, nothing was done on the Z. Life was hectic, and I had plenty on my plate. I'd been reading up on classic Z restorations, bought a few good books off ebay, and found a couple more at the library. The more I learned, the more I thought I'd like to do a full-scale restoration, while keeping budget in mind and not "over-restoring" it.  I wanted a driver, not a concours-ready trailer queen. Besides, I *drive* my cars, so I don't mind a rock chip or some road grime.

I'd seen the pictures of Mark Rolston's gorgeous 240Z in Super Street, and it always seemed to me to be the "perfect" blend of performance and style for a classic Z... the color, the stance, the wheels, the body modifications - All of it.  Of course, I've never been one to try and replicate someone else's work, but it gave me some good ideas.



A few months later, I got motivated to get started. Off to Jason's place, where we gave the car a more thorough inspection. The engine turned over by hand, so we hooked up a new battery, sprayed in some starting fluid, and hit the key... A sputter, a backfire, and a reluctant start... she actually ran for a few minutes! Encouraged by that, it was time to dig in. The first order of business was to remove all the trim, glass, interior, and non-essentials so that the bodywork could be done. Fortunately, it was pretty apparent that she'd never been in an accident, and the only repair to the body was a repaint of the right front wheel arch (for unknown reasons). 

[gallery include="10121,10122,10123,10124" link="file" columns="4"]

Remember how I said I didn't want a car with any rust?  Well, I should have known that ALL Datsuns have at least SOME rust, and she was no different.  In fact, the paint on her "doglegs" (bottom front of the rear wheel arch) were hiding some pretty substantial corrosion.  The more I ground away, the more it became apparent that there was going to be some serious cutting and welding going on.  Fortunately, Jason is a whiz with a welder, so we grabbed a busted-up hood from an S13 an started cutting out metal to make patch panels with. A plasma cutter, a grinder, and a wire wheel saved us a ton of work. We spent a lot of time making cardboard templates for the patch panels, and while I cut, shaped and bent the patches, Jason was busy welding in the new metal. Extraneous holes were patched and filled, and leftover spray paint covered the raw metal until I could get it primered properly.  The antenna hole, the side emblem holes, and the rear view mirror holes were deleted (I had planned to use fender mirrors - before I realized that they're a colossal pain, and they're virtually useless).

[gallery include="10125,10126,10127,10128" link="file" columns="4"]

As we dug into the bodywork, we found one more area that was going to pose a problem.  Seems the battery had leaked pretty badly somewhere along the line, and the battery tray and entire inner fenderwell were compromised.  But, the worst damage was even further down, where the front tension rod meets the frame - the battery acid had run right into that seam, and both the tension rod mount and the frame were weakened by the corrosion.  

[gallery include="10130,10131,10132,10133" link="file" columns="4"]

Jason tackled this part with a vengeance, since it's a critical strength area.  He cut out the battery tray, the inner fenderwell, and a section of the frame rail.  He fabricated a fenderwell patch, an entirely new battery tray, and beefed up the frame rail while creating a new tension rod mount.  Cross-measurements were taken to ensure the frame was square and true, and a set of come-alongs and turnbuckles were employed to make small adjustments while the bracing was welded in.  Then, to make sure one side wasn't stiffer than the other, he reinforced the driver's side as well. At the time, it didn't seem important - as the project progressed, it became critical.

[gallery include="10134,10135" link="file" columns="2"]

All of the rust areas that were repaired were treated to a coat of POR-15.  And, since there was quite a bit left, I used it on areas that normally DO rust on a Z.  A quick zap with a wire wheel, some sandpaper, and a wipedown with brake parts cleaner, followed by an application of POR-15, and we'd never have to worry about corrosion again. The entire undercarriage got a fresh coat of rubberized undercoating (I had already removed most of the original) - it was time to send her off for paint.

I told you this project was being done backwards!

Ready to read Part 3?  Project 240Z gets paint!

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 







                    [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 2
                    [post_excerpt] => The more I learned about the 240Z, the more I thought I'd like to do a full-scale restoration, while keeping budget in mind and not "over-restoring" it.  I wanted a driver, not a concours-ready trailer queen.
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If you haven't noticed by now, this project was done somewhat backwards - Ordinarily, I'd tear the car down, and restore it in order (engine, drivetrain, suspension, body, paint, interior). But I really needed to be motivated, and I just couldn't wait to see her in her new paint color.

Speaking of paint, I've done bodywork and paint ONE time in my life - and hated it. Despite all my restorations and modded cars, it's the one skill I just don't seem to have much luck with. As such, it's one of those things I'll farm out to an expert.

A couple hints for anyone following along: I HATE repaints when there's a lot of masking involved. My feeling is, if you're going to do a color change on a car, it had better involve removing the glass, trim, bumpers, interior, etc. A crappy repaint will kill your value if it's obvious, so take your time and do it right. I removed everything including the windshield (had my local windshield installer guy come out and remove that), masked the dash and steering wheel myself, and triple-checked the car for anything I didn't want to be repainted. This not only makes sure you get good paint coverage, but your painter will appreciate not having to be cautious.

Now, the paint color becomes important later in the story, but here's the deal on it for now: I was sitting at a stoplight and a vehicle pulled up next to me. It was obviously freshly-washed, and the paint color just jumped out at me... I literally stared at it driving away, caught up to see it again, changed lanes to see the side in the shade - THAT was the color I wanted. I drove straight to a dealership to get the color code: It's from a 2005 Honday Odyssey minivan, Ocean Mist Metallic. A quick trip to our local auto paint supply shop and she's off to the painters!



When it comes to the budget for paint and bodywork, a couple things worked in my favor here: Even though the car had a lot of little dings and imperfections, I made it clear that this wasn't going to be a show car - it's a driver. So, I wanted it smooth but within budget. Having already removed everything that wasn't going to get painted blue, and also not having a deadline in mind, both helped with the cost. This way, the bodywork could be done a little at a time, and the painter could shoot the car, the door jambs, inside the hood and decklid, as well as the extra parts, without worrying about masking for overspray. In preparation for the paint shop visit, I had ordered the MSA front air dam and the replica BRE spoiler. A month later, she was done.

Here she is with her new paint:

[gallery link="file"]

With that completed, I was motivated to press on with the project - But reality had other plans for me, and another huge delay was right around the corner...

Part 4 - The Z project screeches to a halt...

Questions? Comments? Just want to discuss the build? Here's where: Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z

 
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About two weeks after getting the Z home from the paint shop, our family life changed significantly.  The next three months was spent packing up our house and moving across town. The Z restoration was once again put on hold, and everything I'd removed and set aside was now being stuffed in boxes and bags, unlabeled, in order to relocate.  I was positive I'd remember where I put everything.

While I was gaining a lot more space, I was also doing the ONE thing you're NOT supposed to do in the middle of a restoration, and that's move parts from where you initially put them.  This lesson would become painfully obvious in the next two years, as I searched for certain parts to reassemble the car.

To make matters more chaotic, right before the move, I acquired another Z.  Well, sort of.  See, in doing my research on the restoration, I knew I'd want to upgrade the suspension and brakes. The only problem was that it would require sourcing a LOT of individual components, and doing more research to make sure everything would work well together. As is so often the case, I got a call from a buddy whose brother had started a project and abandoned it, and he thought it might be right up my alley.  So, off I go across town to look at it. As it turned out, the guy had a '73 Z that he'd started a Velo Rossa conversion on... For those of you unfamiliar with this, a Velo Rossa is a fiberglass re-body kit for the first generation (S30) Datsun Z car. The kit is loosely based on Ferrari’s famed 250GTO from the early 60’s. 

The owner had started off right: Brake upgrades were installed front and rear (Toyota 4x4 calipers and discs in front, Maxima calipers and discs in the rear), higher-rate lowering springs, a larger master cylinder and brake booster, a nice Wilwood brake proportioning valve, KYB shocks, bumpsteer spacers, reinforced lower control arms, heavier sway bars and brackets, polyurethane bushings.  He'd already done some extra work in laying the foundation for the car, and had over $4000 in receipts for his troubles.  He'd also made some progress on reinforcing the chassis after cutting the top and rear hatch area off (in preparation for attaching the Velo Rossa fiberglass body panels). He soon realized, however, that he'd gotten in WAY over his head (the rest of the kit isn't cheap), and that doesn't even take into account all the other Z-specific restoration stuff he still had to buy.  With an impending tab upwards of $20,000 staring him in the face, the financial commitment and pressure from his spouse was too much. 

After talking in the driveway for nearly two hours, we weren't getting anywhere.  Negotiations over price had reached a standstill (he was convinced he had installed a rare VLSD, valued at over $1000 - I politely disagreed).  He was certain the lack of a clear title wouldn't be an issue, I knew better.  Fortunately, his wife joined the discussion as I was about to leave and made up his mind for him - Take my offer of $500 and get it out of HER garage. Ouch.

Not one to stick around for the inevitable domestic violence, I paid the cash (to her), gathered the shell and began the long, dangerous tow home (65 miles with a tow bar and steering linkage held together with a ratchet strap was NOT one of my brighter moves). 

The next morning, I evaluated my haul - Overall, it was well worth the price paid.

[gallery link="file" columns="4"]

Part 5 - Halfhearted attempts and interruptions...

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 



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During the course of getting everyone settled in at the new house, furnishing it, setting up my new garage, having a shed built, putting in landscaping, getting the kids into a new school, the car projects sat idle for quite some time.  After a few months, even though there was still a ton of non-car related stuff to do, I was itching to get back into the garage.  

As soon as time permitted, I started removing useful parts from the shell (the car that was supposed to be converted to a Velo Rossa) and setting them aside for the restoration.  A few unneeded parts (doors, headlight buckets, wheels, and some odds and ends) went up for sale on the local boards, and I actually made almost all of the initial $500 back!  The non-rolling shell was strapped to a set of rolling dollies so I could move it around, and before long, Jason and I had it cut up into pieces for scrap.  

Since I wasn't prepared to start assembling the suspension yet, I decided it was time to pull the tired L24 engine out of my Z and get started on the rebuild. So, I had a day off and dug in.  Even with careful documentation of connections and placements, the removal only took me a couple hours, and it gave me an opportunity to evaluate the condition of the engine bay.  

[gallery include="10179,10181,10180,10182,10183,10184" link="file" columns="3"]

The original engine went on a stand to await its fate, and another few months would go by before I started back to work on the Z... However, during this hiatus from wrenching on the Z, I learned a lot more about the L24.  It was a stout motor, and according to the documents I got from the previous owner, the engine was well-maintained right up until the day he parked it.  I remembered that it had turned over and actually started when I tried it... Wonder what would happen if I simply gave it a good refreshing, rather than a full rebuild?  

Popping off the valve cover and oil pan, I started inspecting the engine.  It showed very little wear, and the plugs were even still decent.  The tops of the pistons were actually relatively clean, no wear on the cam, and the head was remarkably free of sludge and varnish.  So, rather than dumping a pile of money into a performance rebuild, I spent the next two weekends working on the engine.  I gave it a good cleaning, flushed the water passages and crankcase, replaced all the seals, rebuilt the carbs, installed all new seals, a thermostat and temp sensor, re-routed some coolant lines, gave it a fresh coat of paint, detailed it cosmetically, and buttoned it up for future installation.

[gallery include="10189,10190,10191,10192,10193,10194" link="file" columns="3"]



First project in the new garage... Not only did it help me get a feel for the flow of my workspace (and give me some ideas for how to make it better), I got to thinking that this car might just come together... someday.  

Part 6 -Project 240Z goes on the back burner... again.

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 



                    [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 5
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In preparation for loading the engine back in the car, I did some work on the engine bay. Most of the unnecessary holes were filled, seams covered with POR-15 seam sealer, and a fresh coat of flat black covered the metal.  I considered shooting it with the body color, but that would have necessitated fender removal, as well as refurbishing the crossmember, steering rack, and a lot of other parts that I wasn't interested in dismantling.  

[gallery include="10200,10201,10202" link="file" columns="3"]

Those of you who have done a build or a restoration know that sometimes, you go through a phase where you just want to do little half-day projects... those small tasks that can be knocked out in three to five hours.  That's where I was.  I suspected I'd be challenged to make time for reinstalling the engine, so I got a few little jobs done.  First, I installed the larger booster and master cylinder that was on the parts car.  This, of course, placed the brake lines in a little different position, so there was some re-bending involved... but it came together nicely.



While unpacking some stuff in the garage, I ran across a rebuild kit I had ordered for the front calipers.  A quick beadblast made short work of the nasty finish. New seals, hardware, and a fresh coat of gold caliper paint gave them new life - these would definitely outperform the stock brakes!

[gallery include="10209,10208,10210" link="file" columns="3"]

Around this time, we were all settled into our new house and a new lifestyle. The kids had adjusted to a new school and had made new friends. I was throwing myself into work, both on NICO and my projects.  I was attending every local track day I could get to in the G35 Coupe, and had taken on the task of supercharging it.  Meanwhile, the Z sat idle for another year, engine on a stand, just waiting for renewed interest. I even entertained the idea of selling it, but that meant putting it back together to some extent... there simply wasn't enough time to do what I wanted to do. 

I was trying to get out once in a while and resume some semblance of a social life, dating a little, and time seemed to fly by.  Life went on while the Z sat patiently under a cover in the garage. 

Hey, every real car guy has that one project that he never really finishes, right?

Right.  Well, sort of.

In fact, that makes a great title for Part 7:  Leave it to a woman to get the project back on track.

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 



                    [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 6
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Yep.  You read that right.  It took a woman to get me back into the Z project - this time, with a vengeance.

Those of you who are ONLY here to read about rebuilding a classic Z can just skip on to the next page.  Or, stick around and find out how this project REALLY came to get completed.

Anyone who's been on NICO for a while knows that I occasionally posted up updates of my project here on the forum.  I had a few pics of my cars up on MySpace and Facebook, if only to make it clear to potential dates that I'm a car guy. It helped to weed out the flakes... especially if they know ahead of time that I'm a lot happier in the garage, elbow-deep in old car grime.  In fact, after a year of dating, I finally decided I wasn't going to date ANYONE who didn't appreciate my hobby.  It's just easier that way.  And as you guys know, that kinda limits our options.

As luck would have it, one evening I got a message from a new forum member, nissangirl74.  She complimented me on the color choice for the Z, and asked specifically what color it was... Which was followed by a wisecrack: "I'll be surprised if it ever starts again, considering you painted it a Honda color."

Wait, what?

Now my interest was piqued.  Turns out, her favorite car design is the 70-73 240Z.  She's owned four Datsuns, and knows cars pretty well.  Is this someone's idea of a cruel joke? A single girl who likes cars? Our online chats grew longer - several nights were spent chatting into the wee hours on AIM (sometimes straight on through to the morning: "CRAP, I gotta leave for work!"). She lived in Tennessee, I lived in Arizona. 1900 miles apart... but I really, really enjoyed our long talks. She'd send me links to ebay auctions for Datsuns, which we'd critique (or drool over).  We'd discuss stuff happening on the forums.  We talked about our kids, our jobs, our hobbies, our past, and life in general... we covered a lot of ground in those marathon chat sessions.  Seemed like we were on the exact same page on everything.  I'd find myself hurrying home from work just so I could chat with her longer. Crazy?  Yeah... Very.

Coincidentally, an upcoming business trip was taking me about a hundred miles from her hometown in a couple months, and I asked if we could catch up for dinner while I'm there?  It's a date.  No, it's not.  Well, sorta. We even laughed at the thought: What if we meet and really like each other in person?  Wouldn't that be crazy? And even if we did, then what?  Argh, no sense getting your hopes up - there's gotta be a catch. No one gets THAT lucky. Hell, I didn't even have a clue what she even looked like... but no matter how insane it sounded, I couldn't wait to meet this girl.

A couple weeks prior to leaving for TN, state budget cuts necessitated a cancellation of the conference. No way!  Screw it, I'm going anyway. I messaged her that night, told her what had happened, and asked if I could still come out for a visit. A six-hour flight for a first date?  Hey, stranger things have happened - besides, now we'd have more time to hang out.  I booked a round-trip flight and a rental car for the weekend, figuring if it doesn't go well, I can always wander around eastern Tennessee or go visit my aunt and uncle in North Carolina.  Was I nuts for pursuing this? Stupidest mistake ever? 

To make a long story quite short, when I arrived at her place to pick her up, I was instantly smitten - she was absolutely gorgeous, and more fun in person than online. We hit it off right away, and spent the whole weekend together touring eastern Tennessee and getting to know each other.  I hated coming back home.  Another month of online chats and phone calls, and we decided to attend the 2009 Nissan Convention in Savannah together. It was then that I popped the question... Yes, on our second date.  With no idea how we were going to make it work, we started making plans.  Leaving Savannah (and Becky) for the next two months was the hardest thing I've ever done, but I knew I had to get a lot done before we could merge our schedules, our families, and our lives into one functional unit.  



A couple months later, we attended the Carlisle NICOfest meet together (our "coming out" event).  Becky fit right in, got to know some of the staff and members, and we had a blast. Yet another month went by filled with long chats and longer phone calls...

And that brings us back to the car... 

Part 8:  Project 240Z goes from simple restoration to simply awesome.

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 



                    [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 7
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This is where the restoration turns into a much bigger project - and really gets rolling.

Whenever I had talked to Becky about possibly selling the Z, she'd encourage me to press on and stay the course.  She even gave it a name: Bella. So, I thought, what better engagement gift than to build her dream car - the car that was the topic of our first conversation.  With renewed motivation, I dug in with every spare moment to get the car as close to completion as possible before it was time to go to Tennessee to finally move her to Arizona. 

But now, I had a reason to go above and beyond a simple restoration. No, now it needed to be special.  It needed to be something that would make an impact. In short, it needed to be as awesome as her new driver. And, as is always the case, a long talk with Jason about the project sent it in a whole new direction.  Bella wouldn't just be a restoration - she'd be a beast.  See, it just so happened that he had an engine that would suit her perfectly, and the market was weak for engine swaps - no one wanted to drop the money for a low-mileage, pristine example of one of Japan's finest powerplants.  

So, I became the owner of an RB25DET, and off the Z went for her heart transplant. 

Fast-forward a few months... Becky moved to Arizona, we got married and settled into a new awesome life... she took over a lot of the day-to-day operations of NICO, which left me some time to actually complete some of the tasks I'd been putting off.

By now, the Z was over at Jason's shop (the same place where we built The Droptop from Hell), and work was underway to fit the RB25 in the engine bay. Here you can see the RB - Not your typical JDM takeout motor!

[gallery columns="4"]

Becky and I popped in as often as possible to lend a hand, but this was HIS show... The direction was clear:  use your imagination and do it your way.  Jason's an impressive fabricator (way more talented than he gets credit for), and he took every opportunity to show off his creativity and problem-solving skills.

As anyone who's done an S30 RB25 swap will tell you, there's a lot of fabrication and modification involved, especially if you're not buying a bunch of pre-fabbed parts - and neither Jason nor I are real fond of off-the-shelf conversion parts.  There's several companies that make custom mount kits to install an RB in an S30, but they're all lacking something... We decided this would be a 100% custom installation, so that everything could be done the way we wanted it.

Follow along for Part 9 - Installing the RB25DET into the 240Z!

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 



                    [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 8
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We left off in the last episode with a discussion of the amount of custom fabrication required to perform this swap.  And, like we said, it's been done before, but usually involves off-the-shelf parts.  Anyhow, there's a lot that has to be fabricated and modified.

For example, the RB oil pan won't fit in the S30 chassis - it's reversed.  A lot of people use a RB20 oil pan and external pickup, but that's a huge expense.  The L24 engine has a front sump and pickup tube - You need a rear sump oil pan and pickup tube.  So, rather than waste time scouring the internet for parts, I sourced a spare L24 oil pan, and Jason sliced off the flange.  This was mated to the heavily-modified bottom half of the RB pan (reversed), and the inside of the pan, the baffles, and pickup tube were all modified as well.

Custom motor mounts were fabricated to locate the engine in just the right spot - we wanted ample clearance for a large radiator and some good fans and a shroud, but we also wanted some room between the engine and firewall.  It needed to clear the hood, but couldn't sit so low as to cause clearance problems. This meant putting the motor in, measuring, making cardboard mockups, removing the engine, test-fitting, re-measuring, and reinstalling the engine a few times until the mounts were just right.  

[gallery include="10260,10255,10257,10258,10256,10259" link="file" columns="3"]

A transmission mount had to be fabricated as well.  Here it is being test-fitted in raw form, and the finished product after being cleaned up, smoothed and powdercoated.  

[gallery include="10268,10269" link="file" columns="3"]

By the way, having your own powdercoating setup at your house is inexpensive and saves a ton of time.  Maybe if we pester Jason (rotorimp here on the forums) enough, he'll break down and do a how-to article on building one!

A little side note:  When doing a project like this, it helps to have a big project board to keep track of things. You can usually find used dry-erase boards at yard sales, on Craigslist, or local government auctions.

[gallery include="10285,10284" link="file" columns="2"]

[gallery include="10322" link="file" columns="2"]
During the change in plans, I knew I wanted to do a front-mount intercooler - but I wanted it to look unique, and not disrupt the lines of the front of the car.  There wasn't really room for a V-mount setup, but the front end lends itself well to a canted intercooler.  I think at some point, I'll redesign the mounting brackets.  But for now, they work fine.  

I really wanted to point out something super-trick that Jason did during the build (probably my favorite little detail).  The Griffin radiator we had for the project was pretty large.  And, we decided the radiator should be set lower in the chassis, so that it's unobstructed by anything but the bumper.  But that presented a problem, as it was too wide to fit between the frame rails.  If it was mounted above the frame rails, we lost hood clearance and created interference in the airflow to the intercooler.  And, being a budget project, we wanted to work with what we had.  So, check out the slick frame notching and reinforcing that was done to accommodate the radiator - even an opening for the draincock: 

[gallery include="10288,10290,10289" link="file" columns="3"]

Jason ran into a bit of a challenge getting the coldpipe to traverse the span between the intercooler and the throttle body without restrictions... so he cut out a convex section of the fenderwell and reversed it, making a concave "bump-out" that allowed for a graceful curve in the piping.  It's one of those little details that no one notices, but it makes the install look clean and keeps it functional.

Whew!  We covered a lot of ground in this episode... 

Part 10 -Project 240Z and the completion of the RB25 install

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 





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While Jason was busy designing, cutting, welding, and assembling, I got to work on the bumpers. The rubber had some cracks and nicks in it, and I just couldn't see replacing rubber strips that I never liked in the first place.  So, I removed the bump strips and overriders and began welding in all the holes.  Now, this was my first real lesson in welding (aside from some gas welding back in high school shop class), and it turns out that this was a good project to start with.  As the holes were filled, the clean lines of the naked bumpers told me I'd made a good choice.  I still wasn't sure whether they'd be powercoated or rechromed, so we made sure to fill and smooth each weld thoroughly. Darian (our younger son) got in on the action as well - Jason showed him how to use a grinder to clean up the welds and smooth them flush with the rest of the bumper.  

[gallery include="10305,10306,10307" link="file" columns="3"]

Shaftmasters has always been my "go to" shop for any driveshaft work, and David hooked us up right.  We sent him the measurements for the new shaft, and it arrived within the week.  It's a beautiful piece, and with the length of the RB transmission and the length of the differential, it makes for a pretty short shaft. 

 

[gallery include="10318" link="file" columns="3"]
Wiring an RB into an S30 isn't an easy task, but again, Jason wanted to tackle this one without any outside help.  Each wire pinout was labeled as to its function, and a lot of effort went into retaining as much of the original functionality of the S30 wiring as possible.  A lot of people will ditch all the original Datsun gauges and replace them with AutoMeter units, but that wasn't the case here. Everything was modified to function as intended. The clock was removed to make room for a boost gauge, but other than that, the temp sensor, ammeter, fuel gauge, and oil gauge all function with the original gauges. At the time of this writing, we're researching a way to convert the tach signal and speedometer signal to retain those gauges. 

While the dash was out, we took that opportunity to install a dash cap to cover the unsightly cracks. Here, you can see how we held the whole thing together while the adhesive set up. It's not a perfect solution, but it fits nicely, it's a hell of a lot cheaper than a new dash, and unless you look closely, it's hard to tell it from original.

A Walbro 255 fuel pump feeds the refurbished RB injectors, which Deatschwerks cleaned and flow-tested to make sure the RB always gets perfect fuel flow and atomization.  A pair of 300ZX fuel filters provide cheap insurance - one at the tank and one after the pump.

Once the engine was mounted up and wired, we couldn't resist the temptation to fire it up and hear it run. A clean RB25 running through a 3" open downpipe is a gorgeous sound, and the decision was made to forestall construction of an exhaust until the end of the project... we'll talk more about that later.

Now that the running gear was installed, it was time to get rid of the 4x4 stance and make sure she'd handle well enough to make use of all that newfound power!

Part 11 - Completing the suspension and rolling stock!

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 




                    [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 10
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Now that the engine and trans were installed, the Z made its way back to our garage to await completion.  Remember the parts car that had all the cool suspension and brake bits?  They'd been collecting dust in the garage since the project started, so it was time to clean and paint everything in preparation for installation on the car.  

[gallery include="10343,10344" link="file" columns="2"]
Removal and reinstallation of the suspension is pretty straightforward on an S30, so there's not a lot of detail to go into. Pulling the old suspension components wasn't too difficult, considering the car had spent its life in the desert - no rust to speak of, and not a lot of grime and gunk.  

I was actually surprised at how easily everything came apart (also, a Dewalt 18v cordless impact wrench is the perfect tool for quick disassembly of stuff like this).  Removing the old suspension components:


The calipers I'd refurbished early in the restoration went on, and I realized there was another small problem:  I couldn't find the stainless steel braided lines that came with the parts car!  They were in one of the boxes of stuff, but just like several other small items, they somehow disappeared during the move. What to do?  I didn't even know what would fit.  I mean, we're going from the hardlines on the chassis (original Z stuff) to a set of late 80's Toyota 4x4 truck calipers and 90's Maxima calipers.  

Online research didn't yield much info, other than a lot of conversions using AN fittings - but I wanted something simpler.  I had access to a local shop (Arizona Tube & Hose), and they've done some custom automotive plumbing for me before.  Just for kicks, while at NAPA the next day, I asked if they had any old Datsun rubber brake lines.  They had a set for a 520/520 pickup for under $10.  I figured, "Well, at that price, even if one end doesn't work, I can have the fittings cut off and used on a custom set."  On a whim, I test-fitted them in the Toyota calipers - BINGO. There's no way they'd fit the Maxima calipers, right?  Wrong.  They fit there too!  The only obstacle was that the Maxima calipers have an odd location for the line fitting, and it made the line interfere with the axle shaft as it rotated.  So, I went back to NAPA and bought a short extension (with a female end and a male end), bent it 90 degrees, and attached it to the caliper - Perfect fitment. 

[gallery include="10357,10358,10359" link="file" columns="3"] 

Added fresh brake fluid, and went to bleed the brakes... but realized I'd forgotten to connect the new master cylinder shaft to the brake pedal.  After an hour of fiddling with it, it became apparent that the pedal and master cylinder were going to be incompatible without modification, so I removed the pedal and re-drilled the attachment point. NICO Moderator Aaron (Ace2cool) was out for a visit, and lent a helpful hand (foot?) for bleeding the brakes.  Three corners pumped up perfectly... one was still giving us fits - no fluid, no air, nothing.  Something had to be blocking the line. I tried pumping fluid into the caliper - no dice.  We scratched our heads, neither one wanting to think of the hassle of having to trace a blockage in a brake line (or consider the possibility of  bad caliper).  After lunch, we came back to give it another try. 

Now, in all my years of wrenching, I've done some stupid things.  Thankfully, I've only gotten random cuts and burns, puncture wounds, knocked out a tooth, and burned all the hair off my face. I'm a bit more careful now... well, most of the time.  Thinking we might just have a slow leak of air someplace, I asked Aaron to give the pedal a good stomp, which he did - with a loud BANG, something shot upwards out of the brake line, missing my face by mere inches, and ricocheted off the inner wheelwell (along with a spray of brake fluid).  Once I checked for missing eyes and fingers and my heart rate returned to normal, we found the culprit - Some sort of insect had made the brake line its home.  Surprise eviction FTW.  

With the brakes bled and the wheels put on, it was time to come off the jackstands.  However, once everything was put together, I found that the ride height remained obnoxiously high. Now, out of our 12 vehicles, the only one sitting at stock ride height is the Frontier, so this simply would not do... with no identifying numbers or marks on the obviously aftermarket springs, I had no way of knowing what they were or what car they were designed for - but it was clear they weren't going to work out for this build.  

[gallery include="10362,10363" link="file" columns="2"]
So, a quick call to Tokico and a set of lowering springs were on the way. The blue "unknown" springs were removed and replaced with the red Tokico units, and a fresh set of KYB strut inserts were added to make sure the ride was well-damped.   

Replacing the springs and shocks on an S30 isn't a real difficult affair, but having an extra pair of hands to help is a must - thankfully, Becky knows her way around the garage and with her assistance, we made quick work of the task.  As soon as we set it back on the ground, we knew we had the stance just right.


The progress we'd made so far was encouraging, and we started to see the light at the end of the tunnel.  It became clear that the wheels I'd picked up weren't going to go with the "theme", so I asked Becky to pick out something she'd like better.  

She's always been fond of classically-styled Japanese wheels, and she really likes the Watanabe-look wheels for an old Z, but she also wanted to keep this project within budget.  So, during this phase of the build, she ordered a set of XXR 513's in 16x8, zero-offset, with charcoal gray centers. She's got good taste.  A set of Kumho 245/45/16 summer tires were ordered... with the power it'd be making, we wanted lots of rubber on the ground, and that's more tread than a Z32 TT originally had.  With what we saved on the wheels, we decided to have the euro-style bumpers rechromed, rather than powdercoated, and I think you'll agree that it was the right call.

Part 12 - What's left to do?  Check out Part 12 and see!

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 




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[gallery include="10405" link="file" columns="2"]
During this period of "down time", I realized that I'd been putting off a pretty critical part of the restoration.  And it's an important part, but aside from paint and body work, it's easily my least favorite part of the job.  The interior.  And this one was going to require a complete redo.  The butterscotch color was all the rage in 1972, but it had to go.  So, I reluctantly started digging in.

Now, don't get me wrong - I've never avoided doing an interior restoration... but this was an early Z.  While the engineers in Japan did a spectacular job on the body, the running gear, and the suspension, the interior of the S30 was an afterthought.  As is the case with all my projects, the first thing I do is scrape and scrub the interior down to the metal.  A wire cup brush on a cordless drill made short work of the glue residue that held down the old sound deadening. A quick wipedown with solvent gets the metal ready for new GT Mat sound deadening and heat shielding (amazing stuff - I use it on ALL my restorations). After the sound deadening was in, I bead-blasted the door sill plates.  They're aluminum, and had gotten pitted and stained.  They're hard to clean, and some people paint or polish them, but I think they look best in a clean, raw metal finish. Afterwards, I hit them with 3 coats of satin clear coat for protection.

[gallery include="10410" link="file" columns="2"]
While getting up the nerve to tackle the interior, I decided to try my hand at restoring the seats.  The original vinyl was cracked and torn, and the seat padding was dried out and deteriorating into dust.  I had ordered a set of new vinyls and new padding, so I stripped off all the old vinyl and foam.  I disassembled all of the latching and reclining mechanism, cleaned it, and had it powder-coated at a local shop.  

Then I reassembled everything and installed the new vinyl.  For those planning to try this, a couple tips I saw on a tv show really helped: The vinyl will be extra-tight, so you'll want to set it out in the sun for a couple hours before trying to stretch it over the new foam.  Also, it helps to put a really thin plastic bag over the foam, which will help the vinyl slide over the foam more easily.  Lastly, it helps to turn the seatback vinyl inside-out before installing it, position it at the headrest, and roll it down over the seatback.  Mine took a few tries, but I had the seats completed in a day... and, as luck would have it, the seat-rebuilding pictures were lost (along with several others from this build) when my PC died during the project.

As anyone who's ever done an interior on an S30 knows, they didn't have carpeting. The transmission tunnel is covered in a diamond-embossed vinyl, as are the rear fenderwells.  Saying that it's an extreme pain in the butt to replace is probably putting it mildly.  The kit I bought looks great, but it simply doesn't fit snugly, no matter how much heating, smoothing, and re-forming I did to it. It's glued down, which is a challenge in the Arizona heat - automotive interior adhesives don't hold up well to 200* temperatures!  

Here's a look at the sound deadening install, as well as a glimpse at the transmission tunnel vinyl:

[gallery include="10413,10416,10414,10415" link="file" columns="4"]

Something that became awfully obvious once I installed the seats - The floor and footwells of the passenger compartment are simply floor mats, laid right over the sound deadening - Datsun really didn't put much effort into this. In fact, there's nothing at all on the firewall, under the seats and behind them, unless you got it aftermarket... Once the seats are in, you could see the metal under the seat pan and behind the seat. So, I went out and bought some automotive carpet, made templates for all of those areas, and carpeted them.  It's not OEM, but it looks a lot nicer. 

The window mechanisms and latching hardware had been removed for painting, so all that got bead-blasted, lubricated and reinstalled when I put the door glass back in.  The inside of the door shells received a coat of rubberized undercoating. Then, the interior door metal (under the door panels) got a layer of sound deadening.  

I found a set of nice used door panels on ebay, and traded some S-chassis parts for some of the other interior plastic.  The plastic panels that cover the sides of the cargo area, as well as the pieces around the quarter windows, are incredibly hard to find in nice condition.  The original butterscotch-colored ones were so brittle, they cracked and crumbled when I tried to remove them.  It took a few weeks to scrounge up everything I needed, but seeing it all come together made up for some of the discouragement from the ill-fitting vinyl.  Since she wouldn't have a radio anytime soon, I found some material to make a blockoff plate, and made sure to cover the areas of the tunnel left exposed by the missing HVAC components.

[gallery include="10418,10419,10420,10421" link="file" columns="4"] 

The door handles and escutcheons were treated to a good polishing on a buffing wheel, which brought back their shine, and it was time to wipe down the interior, treat everything with 303 Protectant (my favorite), and admire the completed interior... not bad for a low-budget restoration.  We'll have some additional "finished" pics of the interior towards the end of the build - Just when you think you're almost done, there's still a TON left to do!

Now that the interior's [mostly] completed, we can move on to wrapping up all those pesky details...

Part 13 - Drivetrain hassles, exterior details, and Bella finally shows her face to the world....

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 



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While awaiting the wheels and tires, I decided to restore the axles for reliability.  New u-joints and boots were installed, but this wasn't a project for the faint of heart.  If I had to do it again, I'd buy refurbished units or one of the conversion kits that uses CV joint-style axles from a later Z.

When the wheels and tires arrived, we ran into another obstacle:  The hub bore on the wheels was slightly too small for the front hubs.  See, the early Z, just like the Roadster and many other Datsuns, has a small "flare" at the base of the hub.  It's not deep, but it's just enough to cause fitment problems if you've got the wrong hub bore.

Not to worry - we have a machinist friend who mounted two of the wheels on a lathe and turned out just enough material from the lip of the mounting boss to allow the wheel to fit snugly over the hub.  While this will preclude normal tire rotations, it's a small inconvenience. I suppose we could have the two rear wheels machined to match, but it's easier just to replace rear tires as needed.

If any part of this project has given me heartburn, it's the damned differential.  As any S30 owner knows, the OEM R180 open diff is insufficient for putting any kind of real power on the ground.  However, finding a limited-slip replacement unit that will bolt in, and isn't cost-prohibitive, is the challenge.  Everyone says, "Oh, just buy a blah blah blah, they're everywhere."  Wrong.  In fact, the differential we really wanted for the car came only in 87-89 turbo Z's... and even then, things can go haywire.

After searching high and low for an appropriate replacement diff, Becky found an ad for an 88 turbo Z that was non-running, and about the same price as a junkyard differential. A long drive across town might be worth it, right?  Our thinking was, we could buy the shell, harvest the diff, and sell off the remainder of the parts, resulting in essentially a free rear end. So, I inspect the car, and something told me to check the rear end.  I jacked it up, rotated one rear tire, and Becky confirmed that the opposite tire rotated in the other direction... somewhere along the line, the VLSD had gone bad, and an open diff from a junkyard had been installed. Back to the drawing board.  As of this writing, the Z is still equipped with an open R200 differential. The search continues.

Seemed like everything remaining from here on out was small, half-day projects.  My favorite part of any restoration is refurbishing and restoring the individual components that make up a car, no matter how insignificant they might seem.  Here's an example:  After disassembling an entire taillight housing and restoring the socket, the wiring boot, the contacts, the lens, the trim, and the weatherstrip, it's really rewarding to reinstall that as-new assembly onto a car with fresh paint.  So, while we're at it, that was one of the tasks to be done.  The old taillights were faded, weather-checked, and severely heat-damaged.  The chrome strip is actually plated plastic, and had lost most of its plating.  These are difficult to remove without damaging the pins on the rear that hold it to the lens, but I removed them, smoothed the surface, and painted them a semi-gloss black.  Here's a little before and after:

[gallery include="10454,10455" link="file" columns="2"]

The corner markers and turn signals got the same treatment.  If the rubber trim is still somewhat pliable, and you're gentle with it, it can be refurbished without doing any damage.  I've had a little success soaking OEM rubber seals for a few days in a Ziploc bag with some 303 vinyl protectant, but this really only works if the rubber isn't completely cracked and crumbly.  The rear panel that surrounds the taillights was removed, sanded, primed, and refinished with Eastwood Satin Black rally wheel paint for durability.  NOTE:  Masking off the tiny strip of metal trim around the taillights, which is crimped onto the rear panel, is a challenge.  I used some fresh green masking tape and a new Exacto knife blade and got good results.


[gallery include="10459" link="file" columns="2"]


 

Early in the project, I decided to do away with the fender emblems (for a cleaner look) as well as the decklid emblems (so I could install the MSA spoiler).  The sail panel emblems got restored by removing the original black accent paint with paint stripper.  Then they were cleaned with degreaser and a stiff-bristle toothbrush, and I reapplied the black accents (and the white "Z" in the center) with a set of pinstriping brushes.  They turned out great, don'tcha think?

The original wiper arms were lightly bead-blasted to restore the original aluminum finish, and got a coat of Eastwood Satin Clear paint to protect the metal and keep it looking good.  Meanwhile, the UPS guy arrived with a delivery we'd been waiting a LONG time for - Bella's bumpers were back from chrome plating!  Never mind getting some sleep that night, I wanted to put them on with the MSA front air dam and see her new "face"...



In Part 14, she finally takes her first trip under her own power!  Project 240Z's Maiden Voyage (around the block)...

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z



                    [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 13
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With a half-day of garage time available one weekend, I got started on restoring the steering wheel.  The S30 had a wood-look wheel that was actually a grained plastic of some sort... it's pretty convincing.  I started with a light sanding with 400-grit, which really brings out the original color and variations.  NOTE: You don't want to sand too far, because the underlying layers are different colors - just take off the layer of wear and finish it off.  I took it down to an 800-grit, masked off the spokes, and sprayed the rim with a satin clear coat.  After that cured, I masked off the rim, sanded the spokes, and resprayed those in a semi-gloss black paint, just like original. 

With everything buttoned up, it was time for the Z to take her maiden voyage. Let's ignore the fact that for an engagement gift, it was a year late... So on SuperBowl Sunday, Becky got the keys to Bella and took her for her first drive.  Her expression was priceless, and despite the fact that NOTHING had been "sorted" on the car, she was as excited as could be... Never mind the fact that it was built by a couple knuckleheads in a garage, she romped on the throttle and made sure all the neighbors heard it - and the sound of that RB under load through a 3" dump is simply amazing.

[gallery include="10572,10573,10571" link="file" columns="3"]



I think she likes it.

Side note:  Speaking of "sorting", this is kind of an archaic term you'll hear tossed about by restorers and hot rod builders.  Simply put, it means the process of making a newly-built car driveable.  Even a well-planned project will have bugs and kinks that won't reveal themselves until that first drive. It's important when sorting a vehicle that you take a passenger along with a pad and pen (or a digital voice recorder) to jot down all of your impressions. For example, Becky noticed several things that needed to be addressed:  The brakes are overly touchy and engage too high in the pedal travel. Similarly, the clutch engages too early in pedal travel as well. The rear end squats on moderate acceleration, rubbing the rear tires on the fenders. The front tires scrub the air dam on sharp turns, and the seat belt buzzer decided to magically "re-connect" itself halfway through the shakedown run... and, as you heard her mention, it acted like it wanted to die out a couple times.  All things that could be addressed.

As much fun as the 3" open dump downpipe was, it's pretty uncivilized under load and at high rpm's. Not to mention, it hung dangerously close to the ground (as Becky found on her shakedown run). It was time to give the exhaust the attention it deserved.  Once again, we enlisted the services of Jason and his Master Fabricator skills.  Lengthy discussions ensued, however.  See, the S30 chassis doesn't exactly lend itself to an easy exhaust configuration, especially after you hog up the transmission tunnel area with a larger transmission.  Yes, there have been a lot of RB swaps into the early Z, but there's not a simple, universally-accepted "best way" to route the exhaust.  Complicating matters further was the fact that this car sits relatively close to the ground, and we wanted to avoid scraping over speed bumps and driveway entrances.  

This left us few options... split the 3" downpipe into a pair of 2" pipes? Cool, but a lot of work and unnecessary expense. Keep it 3" all the way to the bumper? Simpler, but ground clearance would be problematic.  How about oval piping?  Slick, but expensive, and the transitions are a fabrication nightmare.  

We learned from the KA-T build on the Droptop From Hell that a small-displacement turbo engine doesn't always need 3" pipe - it performs quite nicely with a straight, free-flowing mandrel-bent 2.5" system.  So, we decided to transition the 3" downpipe into a 2.5" system that hugs the underbody closely, and finished it off with a Magnaflow straight-through muffler.  We turned the muffler up on its side, just like the OEM system, powdercoated it black, and polished the 3" tip to a high gloss.  So, yeah - it looks awesome... but how does it sound? I can tell you this - it's easily my favorite-sounding car in our fleet.  It's VERY quiet at idle, smoother and quieter than our Frontier in fact. Under load, at full throttle, it sounds... well, it sounds like an R33. Absolutely gorgeous. 

While we set about the task of sorting out all the little issues, there was still something missing.  Any guesses?

Join us for Part 15, and we'll show you the "finished product":   Becky's 240Z is finally finished.

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z



                    [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 14
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Once Becky drove the car, it really started to settle in - We did it.  After all the hassles, the thoughts of giving up and selling it, and the setbacks, it really was totally worth it.  Jason took it for a long drive and came back with a satisfied smile - After all, he had put countless hours into the build as well, so it was really rewarding to see him pleased with the way it turned out.  

But as fun as it is to build and drive a special-interest vehicle, the REAL joy for us is sharing them with other people.  There's a local charity car show that happens annually that we've been supporting for a few years, and Becky decided she wanted to debut Bella at the Jennabears Show.  But as cool as it was, and as good as it drove, it was missing something - something that would really tell onlookers that there was something special going on here. 

Stripes?  Nah. Too gaudy. 
Louvers? No, too 70's. 
Pinstriping? Uhhh, no. 

Flares?  Wait, you're gonna drill holes in those fenders that were so carefully massaged back into shape?  Hell yeah, and Becky decided they should be painted gunmetal grey metallic, to match the wheel centers. So, our good friends at Classic Datsun Motorsports in Vista, CA shipped out a set of ZG flares just in time. There's a specialty fastener warehouse here in Phoenix that has a ton of cool hardware, so I purchased a bag of stainless steel allen head bolts and concave recessed washers to secure the flares.  

[gallery include="10598,10599" link="file" columns="2"]

With the assistance of our friend Cody from Desert Datsuns, the necessary sanding, trimming and alignment of the flares was done. By the next day, I had them painted and installed.  The result was better than we expected, and I think it really sets off the Z perfectly. 

The flares were done and installed a couple days before the show, and one more thing needed to be installed.  That day, UPS delivered an RB custom coil cover from NICO member and fabricator "bmxarmy".  If you haven't checked out his thread, do it - it's awesome!  Our local powdercoat shop agreed to do a one-day turnaround on the coil cover, and Becky wanted it to match the wheel centers and flares - I think it turned out awesome.  The stock RB coil cover, obviously, is shown in the picture to the left:

[gallery include="10601,10602,10603,10604" link="file" columns="4"]

We finished buttoning up the car at midnight before the show, and the show was a success.  Bella made it there and back (about a 40-mile round-trip in traffic) without incident.  Becky had a great time talking to onlookers about her new ride... it's always amusing for me when someone walks up and admires the car, and asks, "Is that yours?" ...and I point to her.  (Even more enjoyable is watching them slowly realize she knows her way around a car, and a thing or two about classic Datsuns). 

Anyway, without further ado, it's time to show you guys how she turned out.  



[gallery include="10589,10590,10591, 10592,10593,10594" link="file" columns="3"]

Becky and I hope you've enjoyed this article series, and more than that, we hope it inspires you to rescue and restore an old Datsun of your own.  Thanks for joining us, and we'll see you on the NICOclub.com forums!

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z



                    [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 15
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Welcome back!  Hope you enjoyed the introduction to this build.  

For the first several months, nothing was done on the Z. Life was hectic, and I had plenty on my plate. I'd been reading up on classic Z restorations, bought a few good books off ebay, and found a couple more at the library. The more I learned, the more I thought I'd like to do a full-scale restoration, while keeping budget in mind and not "over-restoring" it.  I wanted a driver, not a concours-ready trailer queen. Besides, I *drive* my cars, so I don't mind a rock chip or some road grime.

I'd seen the pictures of Mark Rolston's gorgeous 240Z in Super Street, and it always seemed to me to be the "perfect" blend of performance and style for a classic Z... the color, the stance, the wheels, the body modifications - All of it.  Of course, I've never been one to try and replicate someone else's work, but it gave me some good ideas.



A few months later, I got motivated to get started. Off to Jason's place, where we gave the car a more thorough inspection. The engine turned over by hand, so we hooked up a new battery, sprayed in some starting fluid, and hit the key... A sputter, a backfire, and a reluctant start... she actually ran for a few minutes! Encouraged by that, it was time to dig in. The first order of business was to remove all the trim, glass, interior, and non-essentials so that the bodywork could be done. Fortunately, it was pretty apparent that she'd never been in an accident, and the only repair to the body was a repaint of the right front wheel arch (for unknown reasons). 

[gallery include="10121,10122,10123,10124" link="file" columns="4"]

Remember how I said I didn't want a car with any rust?  Well, I should have known that ALL Datsuns have at least SOME rust, and she was no different.  In fact, the paint on her "doglegs" (bottom front of the rear wheel arch) were hiding some pretty substantial corrosion.  The more I ground away, the more it became apparent that there was going to be some serious cutting and welding going on.  Fortunately, Jason is a whiz with a welder, so we grabbed a busted-up hood from an S13 an started cutting out metal to make patch panels with. A plasma cutter, a grinder, and a wire wheel saved us a ton of work. We spent a lot of time making cardboard templates for the patch panels, and while I cut, shaped and bent the patches, Jason was busy welding in the new metal. Extraneous holes were patched and filled, and leftover spray paint covered the raw metal until I could get it primered properly.  The antenna hole, the side emblem holes, and the rear view mirror holes were deleted (I had planned to use fender mirrors - before I realized that they're a colossal pain, and they're virtually useless).

[gallery include="10125,10126,10127,10128" link="file" columns="4"]

As we dug into the bodywork, we found one more area that was going to pose a problem.  Seems the battery had leaked pretty badly somewhere along the line, and the battery tray and entire inner fenderwell were compromised.  But, the worst damage was even further down, where the front tension rod meets the frame - the battery acid had run right into that seam, and both the tension rod mount and the frame were weakened by the corrosion.  

[gallery include="10130,10131,10132,10133" link="file" columns="4"]

Jason tackled this part with a vengeance, since it's a critical strength area.  He cut out the battery tray, the inner fenderwell, and a section of the frame rail.  He fabricated a fenderwell patch, an entirely new battery tray, and beefed up the frame rail while creating a new tension rod mount.  Cross-measurements were taken to ensure the frame was square and true, and a set of come-alongs and turnbuckles were employed to make small adjustments while the bracing was welded in.  Then, to make sure one side wasn't stiffer than the other, he reinforced the driver's side as well. At the time, it didn't seem important - as the project progressed, it became critical.

[gallery include="10134,10135" link="file" columns="2"]

All of the rust areas that were repaired were treated to a coat of POR-15.  And, since there was quite a bit left, I used it on areas that normally DO rust on a Z.  A quick zap with a wire wheel, some sandpaper, and a wipedown with brake parts cleaner, followed by an application of POR-15, and we'd never have to worry about corrosion again. The entire undercarriage got a fresh coat of rubberized undercoating (I had already removed most of the original) - it was time to send her off for paint.

I told you this project was being done backwards!

Ready to read Part 3?  Project 240Z gets paint!

Questions?  Comments?  Just want to discuss the build?  Here's where:  Building an RB25DET-powered 240Z 







            [post_title] => Datsun 240Z restoration and modification - Part 2
            [post_excerpt] => The more I learned about the 240Z, the more I thought I'd like to do a full-scale restoration, while keeping budget in mind and not "over-restoring" it.  I wanted a driver, not a concours-ready trailer queen.
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