"WP_Query Object ( [query] => Array ( [post_status] => publish [post_type] => post [toc_search_post_slug] => infiniti-g [orderby] => ID [order] => ASC [posts_per_page] => -1 ) [query_vars] => Array ( [post_status] => publish [post_type] => post [toc_search_post_slug] => infiniti-g [orderby] => ID [order] => ASC [posts_per_page] => -1 [error] => [m] => [p] => 0 [post_parent] => [subpost] => [subpost_id] => [attachment] => [attachment_id] => 0 [name] => [pagename] => [page_id] => 0 [second] => [minute] => [hour] => [day] => 0 [monthnum] => 0 [year] => 0 [w] => 0 [category_name] => [tag] => [cat] => [tag_id] => [author] => [author_name] => [feed] => [tb] => [paged] => 0 [meta_key] => [meta_value] => [preview] => [s] => [sentence] => [title] => [fields] => [menu_order] => [embed] => [category__in] => Array ( ) [category__not_in] => Array ( ) [category__and] => Array ( ) [post__in] => Array ( ) [post__not_in] => Array ( ) [post_name__in] => Array ( ) [tag__in] => Array ( ) [tag__not_in] => Array (  => 4610 ) [tag__and] => Array ( ) [tag_slug__in] => Array ( ) [tag_slug__and] => Array ( ) [post_parent__in] => Array ( ) [post_parent__not_in] => Array ( ) [author__in] => Array ( ) [author__not_in] => Array ( ) [ignore_sticky_posts] => [suppress_filters] => [cache_results] => 1 [update_post_term_cache] => 1 [lazy_load_term_meta] => 1 [update_post_meta_cache] => 1 [nopaging] => 1 [comments_per_page] => 50 [no_found_rows] => ) [tax_query] => WP_Tax_Query Object ( [queries] => Array (  => Array ( [taxonomy] => post_tag [terms] => Array (  => 4610 ) [field] => term_id [operator] => NOT IN [include_children] => 1 ) ) [relation] => AND [table_aliases:protected] => Array ( ) [queried_terms] => Array ( ) [primary_table] => md5q3oa_posts [primary_id_column] => ID ) [meta_query] => WP_Meta_Query Object ( [queries] => Array ( ) [relation] => [meta_table] => [meta_id_column] => [primary_table] => [primary_id_column] => [table_aliases:protected] => Array ( ) [clauses:protected] => Array ( ) [has_or_relation:protected] => ) [date_query] => [request] => SELECT md5q3oa_posts.* FROM md5q3oa_posts WHERE 1=1 AND ( md5q3oa_posts.ID NOT IN ( SELECT object_id FROM md5q3oa_term_relationships WHERE term_taxonomy_id IN (4610) ) ) AND md5q3oa_posts.post_type = 'post' AND ((md5q3oa_posts.post_status = 'publish')) AND md5q3oa_posts.post_name LIKE '%infiniti-g%' GROUP BY md5q3oa_posts.ID ORDER BY md5q3oa_posts.ID ASC [posts] => Array (  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1339 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By rydwhite 2003/2004 G35 Sedan Engine: 3.5 liter V6 (VQ 35) Drive Type: Rear-wheel drive/Optional All-wheel drive (G35X) Horsepower: 260 @ 6,000 RPM Torque: 260 lb-ft @4,800 RPM Suspension: Front: Independent, forged-aluminum multi-link with coil springs over ripple-control shock absorbers, stabilizer bar. Rear: Independent, forged-aluminum multi-link with coil springs, outboard ripple-control shock absorbers, stabilizer bar. Valvetrain : DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder with microfinished camshafts and Continuously Variable Valve Timing Control System (CVTCS) for intake valves. Intake system: High-flow induction system Compression ratio: 10.3:1 Brake Rotors: 11.7” x 0.9” front rotors/11.5” x 0.6” rear rotors ABS Type: Computer-controlled 4-channel, 4-sensor with Electronic Brake force Distribution Assist Turning Diameter: 36 feet Wheels: Base, Leather Model: 6-spoke 7” x 17” aluminum-alloy Leather, 6mt Model: 5-spoke 7” x 17” aluminum-alloy Tires: Base, Leather Model: 215/55R17 V-rated all-season performance Leather, 6mt: 215/55R17 w-rated performance Wheelbase: 112.2 Overall Length: 186.5 Overall Width: 69 Overall Height: 57.7 Track (front/rear): 59.1/59.3 Coefficient of drag: 0.27 Cd/0.26 Cd with Aero Head Room (front/rear): 40.1/37.9 Leg Room (front/rear): 43.6/33.6 Shoulder Room (front/rear): 56.4/55.5 Hip Room (front/rear): 52.2/54.1 Interior Volume: 98 cubic feet without sunroof/95.5 cubic feet with sunroof: Cargo Volume: 14.8 cubic feet (11.8 when equipped with full-size spare) Curb Weight: Base Model: 3,336 lbs Leather Model: 3,369 lbs Leather 6mt: 3,398 lbs AWD Leather: 3,677 lbs Fuel Capacity: 20 gallons 2003 EPA Fuel Economy Estimates (City/Highway): Auto 18/26 6mt 20/27 AWD 17/24 All info taken from Infiniti. [post_title] => Infiniti G35: Technical Data / Specifications / Capacities [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-g35-technical-data-specifications-capacities [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 13:12:28 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 20:12:28 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1503 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This mod is "do at your own risk" and is not intended for use on public roadways while driving.
After searching many G35/Infiniti forums for answers to this question, I noticed that everyone else was curious how to do it as well, so I figured it out, and am posting my findings here.I haven't read through the forum rules, so hopefully this doesn't violate anything.If it does, I apologize.Let me state that this is simply how I DID IT, and am not making any promises as to the voiding of factory warranties, etc.Essentially, try this at your own risk.This was not my car, but a friend's who asked me to help him with an install.I am posting those pics here.Threads such as the following one are what prompted me to post:
With that said, I have had it this way for a week with no problems.I have an aftermarket DVD player feeding the A/V input in the center console. The car does not have Nav; just the stock monitor.The problem that has to be overcome is 2 parts.First, the E-Brake signal has to be grounded.That's pretty common.I located the wire in the back of the harness and grounded it.But once I got above 4 mph, just like others who have done the E-Brake ground, my video shut off.So obviously there was a speed sense wire somewhere as well.Well, I took the dash back apart and located the speed sense wire.Conveniently, it was right next to the E-Brake ground! Here is a picture of the harness:
As you can see in the pic, the gray wire on the end of the harness is the speed sense wire.Simply cut this wire, and terminate both ends using a wire nut so that they do not short out, etc.The wire immediately next to it, which should be light blue, is your E-Brake ground.Cut this wire as well, then ground the side that comes out of the harness to the chassis.I found that one of the mounting screws for the stock monitor was a sufficient ground.
This harness plugs into the part of the factory radio that holds the CD Changer, which is down below the A/C controls.There are 4-5 harnesses that plug into this unit, but this particular harness is right next to the Antenna harness, and is closest to the passenger side of the car, if that makes sense.
Anyway, hope this helps all of you struggling with this issue.I would assume it would work on the 07 as well.The one thing I do want to mention is if you have Nav, you will want to take an extra step, because the Nav needs the speed sense wire to detect car position.So, what you will want to do is, rather than cut and terminate both ends of the speed sense wire cut the wire, and install a toggle switch inline with the wire, so that the speed sense can be turned on and off.Then, when you want to watch a movie, turn it off.When you want to use Nav, turn it back on.
Authored by mikey7182 [post_title] => How to Bypass Video or Navigation in G35... [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => bypass-video-infiniti-g35 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 13:44:42 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 20:44:42 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1512 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Ok, I got a red, 9 wire kit for the G37S 6MT. Make sure you give yourself about 3 hours of time to complete this.
First, remove the engine cover
Next, remove bolts near the dipstick (circled in red and yellow)
Now take wires 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and the factory wires. Use the long bolt they gave you, and screw into the hole with a yellow circle. It will look like this.
Next, take wire 2, and attach it to the closest bolt holding the throttle body on the left. Take wire 3 and do the same for the right throttle body. The bolts are circled in red in the picture above. After you connect them they will look like this.
Next, take wire 4 and connect to the factory ground point to the right of the intake filter. If you have Fujita intakes, you will need to unscrew the rubber stabilizer to remove the farthest factory ground. Take both factory grounds,wire 4, and connect in the left hole.
Next, take wire 5, and remove the nut holding the lower plenum, at the center rear of the engine. You will need a deep socket with a small extension. Area is circled in red.
Next, take the supplied 25mm bolt, and attach the other end of wire 1, one end of 6, 7, and E (Yes I said E) at the factory ground point, with the factory ground wire. This is circled in red at the bottom of the picture.
Your engine bay should look like this at this time.
Next, take the the end of 7 and 8, and attach them to the factory ground point, circled in red, along with the factory ground wire. Use the 16mm nut supplied.
Next, you will see 2 holes where wires go into your battery compartment. Pass the B end of the #8 cable through the left one (just put it on top of the other wires). Next, pass the E wire through the right one by running it on top of the other wires. Check and make sure yours looks like mine.
Now for the hard part. The ECU wire.
While your still under the hood, pop the 5 plastic clips holding the battery compartment. Now, with flathead screwdriver, remove the cover. Then, remove the 2 clips holding the plastic windshield trim. Remove the left side piece by jiggling it, and pulling up gently. Now, cut or drill a hole in the rubber boot that runs the wires to the ECU. Look in the picture and make the hole in the same spot.
Now, go into the passenger side of the car, and under the glove box, remove the plastic piece, by pulling down on the front.Now, remove the 7 screws holding the glove box area in place. You might want to remove the box in order to remove some screws easier. Check Picture.
Next remove side door trim piece.
Pull out glove box area, and don't pull on the wires too hard. They might come out.
Now, finish feeding the wire down the hole you make, and connect to the bolt in the picture.
Now put your glove box area back together, and head back to the engine bay.
Last step is to connect wire 8 to the bolt that's holding the negative battery connector. Then reinstall batter cover and windshield trim. Next replace your engine cover, and your done! It should look like this
Article by: CYO44Baseball32 [post_title] => Infiniti G37 Grounding Wire Install [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-g37-grounding-wire-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 13:36:40 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 20:36:40 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1539 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Overview It has been noted by numerous Infiniti G35 owners that they have experienced a squeaking of the rearview mirror.The following information is one way to resolve the issue. First, you need a tube of Silicone. Clear caulk type recommended. Next, with the mirror removed, find the center line on the underside of the mirror. However if you are worried about scratches, you can open it from the top. Next, insert a small flat head screwdriver into the attaching center line, and mildly rotate until the two pieces separate to create a gap. Then apply small amounts of silicone on the four posts in the back, and let dry. (You can also use a hair dryer to speed up the process) Apply silicone on the face where the plastic touches the glass. Reassemble, and clean up any silicone residue on the glass with a paper towel. [post_title] => Infiniti G35 rear view mirror squeak [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-g35-rear-view-mirror-squeak [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 13:30:55 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 20:30:55 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1570 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How to replace a clutch in a 03-07 Infiniti 6 speed. Now as a word of precaution I must start by saying this is not something I would recommend doing in your driveway as the transmission is not only pretty heavy but there are bolts that need to accessed on the top of the bell housing. These directions will be from the perspective of those who have a lift. REMOVAL 1. Start by removing the negative battery cable. *While the car is on the ground make sure that its in neutral and the parking brake is off. 2. After waiting three minutes raise the car and get the necessary tools ready, and if you see rust on any of the bolts that will be removed it is a wise idea to apply penetrating oil now. 3. Once you have everything laid out start by removing the Y pipe and gaskets and set them aside. (6 14mm nuts) 4. Mark the drive shaft current position with paint, finger nail polish works well too. *Once it is marked remove the 17mm nuts attaching the half shaft to the carrier bearing. (A thin wall 3/8" socket with a 1/2" adapter works best) Infiniti recommends replacing these four bolts whenever they are removed and I always do. *Be extra careful when setting the shaft on the ground as any damage to the yolk cover will cause an awful noise. 5. Remove the black rubber cover that connects the shifter to the transmission. Remove the bolt and set aside *There is a 12mm bolt here its easily identified in a pile as the only one with grease on it. 6. Remove the small black plastic cover under the bell housing. Remove the black metal cross bar 6 14mm bolts and 2 19mm bolts Next remove the two 14mm bolt facing the front of the car. On the lower part of the bellhousing. 7.Remove the 4 14mm nuts securing the catalysts to the transmission *Penetrating oil may be needed 8. Next remove the 2 12mm bolts securing the clutch slave cylinder and set it aside, but do not disconnect the line as it is not necessary. 9. On the drivers side of the transmission there to the right of the steering shaft you will notice a plate for the RH drive models, This needs to be removed. *There are 2 14mm bolts one forward facing and one rearward. 10. Disconnect the started solenoid plug and the crank position sensor 1 10mm bolt. Remove the the reverse sensor and neutral switch and compress the tabs on the harness to remove them or remove the 10mm bolts securing the harness tie downs. *Set the wiring harness aside (I usually rest it on top of the cats to keep it from getting damaged) 11. Remove the 4 12mm bolts securing the gear shift mount, and face it rearward *I find that Snap On ratchet wrenches work best for this 12. On the right side of the engine remove the 1 14mm and 1 17mm starter mounting bolts. *Removal is not usually necessary it can be set back and not get in the way. 13. There is a 17mm bolt located on the motor side and secures the engine and trans *A stubby or ratchet wrench works best here 14. Put a transmission jack under the transmission main housing and secure it using a strap or appropriate hold down. 15. Remove the 4 14mm bolts on the rear mount bolts. 16. Lower the transmission almost as much as it will go *Not too far so as not to damage the motor mounts 17. Remove the 6 17mm transmission bellhousing bolts 18. Wiggle the transmission loose and pull it a STRAIGHT back. INSPECTION 1. Inspect the movement of the release bearing and it's operations. *It should always be replaced and the bell housing cleaned. *If the pivot fork is removed be sure to add a small amount of grease to the ball. 2. Remove the 8 12mm bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel. *Be sure to keep the bolts and washers together. *The clutch plate will fall out when removed. 3. Inspect the condition of all mating surfaces any bluing or cracks indicate overheating and it is HIGHLY recommended that the flywheel,disc, and plate be replaced. 4. Remove the flywheel with the 8 T50 torx bit bolts. 5. IT IS CRITICAL TO NOTE THE POSITION OF THE SMALL DIMPLE ON THE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE CRANKSHAFT WHEN REINSTALLING THE NEW FLYWHEEL IT IS VITAL THAT THE MARK ON THE FLYWHEEL AND THE MATING MARK LINE UP. 6. When replacing the pilot bearing a special tool is required to prevent damage to the crankshaft. 6.1 Install the puller and adjust it until tight, use the slide hammer to carefully remove the old bearing *Keep the new bearing clean and free of grease 6.2 Take the new bearing and using an appropriate driver install it into the crankshaft until the tone generated changes. INSTALLATION 1. When the flywheel is installed be sure tighten using a cross pattern. 2. Install the correct clutch alignment tool into the input shaft hole in the crankshaft. *I usually apply some anti-sieze to tool, so when the clutch disc is slid over it the complete lenth of the splines are covered. 3. Slide the clutch disc into position making sure the springs are facing the rear of the car. 4. Now install the clutch pressure plate, securing the bolts in finger tight at this point. 5. Proceed with tightening the bolts in the diagram located here A TWO STEP TORQUE PROCESS IS REQUIRED 5.1 First, tighten the pressure plate using the above figure to 11FT-LB/14Nm 5.2 Second apply final torque in the above mentioned figure to 29FT-LB/35Nm 6. Remove the alignment tool. 7. Now inspect the bellhousing mating surface to ensure there is no damage/debris that will inhibit proper fitment. Be sure to verify that BOTH dowel pins are installed on either side of the bellhousing. 8. Position the transmission behind the motor and slowly align the dowel pins and ensure fitment of the input shaft into the pilot bearing before applying pressure. 9. Once the transmission is mated correctly with no gap install the bellhousing bolts finger tight. Be sure to reinstall the air breather tube. 9.1 Tighten the bolts in the manner listed in this figure. 9.2 Re route the hiring harness back into position, as it is much easier to access now. *Pay close attention to not hyper extend the harness 10. Raise the tranmission to the point to where you can get the shifter bracket can be reconnected. Install the (4 12mm bolts). 11. Install the bolts for the rear transmission mount,(4 14mm short w/ wide flange). 12. Install the bolt above the starter (17mm head) if not previously installed. 12. Install the starter and reconnect the starter solenoid connector, and install the crank position sensor. 13. Install the RH drive starter cover. 14. Reposition the clutch driven (slave) cylinder and tighten. 15. Reinstall the catalyst brace and large black crossmember, as well as the black splash shield. 16. Now verify the transmission is in neutral by moving the gear selector shaft in a clockwise/counter clockwise manner and postion the fork with the shaft containing the bushing. Install and tighten the greasy bolt. 17. Install the rubber dust cover securely in the groove in the round housing. 18. Match the driveshaft segment with the paint marks and install the new bolts and finger tighten. 19. Torque the new rear bolts to 61FT-LBS/83Nm 20. Reinstall the exhaust and tighten the flange nuts. VERIFICATION OF REPAIR 1. Lower the vehicle 2. Pump the clutch several times until a proper pedal is felt. (bleeding may be necessary) 3. Start the car and raise the wheels off the ground. 4. Turn the VDC off and verify that the transmission operates in all forward gears and reverse without noise. 5. Stop the wheel, apply the parking brake and lower the car. 6. Take the car for a road test, clutch pedal adjustment may be needed or additional bleeding or flushing of the system. 7. Drive the car carefully for the next 1,000 miles or whatever the manufacturer recommends to allow proper time to break in [post_title] => Infiniti G35 Clutch Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-g35-clutch-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:45:49 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:45:49 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1573 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This article will guide you in how to install a under drive lightweight pulley. Tools needed: 3/8" Socket Wrench with 14mm & 12mm sockets 1/2" Socket Wrench with 19mm deep socket Floor Jack/Jack Stands Jack your car up. Use jack stand for safety. I only raised the passenger side of my car and it was sufficient. Loosen the 14mm nut on both idler pulleys and loosen the tension using the 12mm socket. Remove Belts. While you are under there, remove the nuts and bolts holding the sway bar bracket on each side. These are all 14mm. 1 nut and 3 bolts on each side. With the sway bar out of the way and the belts off, now it is time to remove the crank pulley. Use the 1/2" socket wrench and 19mm deep socket. Trying to turn it now will just spin the crank. (see next pic) With the socket wrench in place lower your car back to the ground. Remove the upper portion of the floor jack handle to use as an extension/breaker bar. Install your breaker bar and ensure that it is tight to the ground in a straight line to break the bolt loose. You don't want the car to start while you turn the crank. Remove the ignition/ecu fuse. You only want to turn the key for just half a second. We are just breaking it loose. I used a 3/8" socket with a 3" extension first and broke the extension. Twice. Worked 1st time with 1/2". Now that the bolt is loose, you should be able to spin it the rest of the way by hand. Remove Bolt. Getting the stock pulley off took a little coercion. I tapped it with the end of the socket wrench a few times. Because it fits so tightly in, you will need to wiggle it side to side while you pull it off. Notice the difference in weight. The UR pulley weights about 2 pounds. My guess is the stock is around 8-10 lbs. I need to put it on a scale. Use some WD40 to clean the area up a little. When that is dry use some white lithium grease to lube both sides of the pulley and on the crank where you will install it. Push the new pulley on, making sure to keep the notch in the right place. Screw on the bolt, hand tight. Now, jack the car back up and reinstall the sway bar brackets to their proper position. Use the nuts to hold it in place while you get the bolts started. We need to tighten down the crank bolt now, but we face the same issue as before: you can't fully tighten because the crank spins.You need to hold the new crank pulley in place. I used some clamps like the picture. You can also use a tie down or some ring clamps if you can fit them over the sway bar. DO NOT try to use the cranking method to install, you most likely will cause serious problems. Reinstall the belts, adjust the tension, then torque down the idler pulley nut. Reinstall the Ignition Fuse. Start the car to make sure the belt tension is proper and no squealing. Lower the car back down. You're Done! Originally posted by tollboothwilley [post_title] => Installing an Under Drive Lightweight Pulley on an Infiniti G35 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => installing-an-under-drive-lightweight-pulley-on-an-infiniti-g35 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:46:08 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:46:08 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1576 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This is a common problem when retained power is lost. You will need to perform the following procedure, it's real simple and resolves this issue. That can occur if the battery is drained and is easily reset. 1. Push the ignition switch to the ON position. 2. Close the door. 3. Open the window completely by operating the power window switch. 4. Pull the power window switch and hold it to close the window, and then hold the switch more than 3 seconds after the window is closed completely. 5. Release the power window switch. Operate the window by the automatic function to confirm the initialization is complete. 6. Perform steps 2 through 5 above for other windows. You may also want to check the moonroof for automatic operation. Here is the procedure for resetting that. 1. If the moonroof is open, close it fully by repeatedly pushing the CLOSE side of the moonroof switch. 2. Push and hold the CLOSE side of the moonroof switch to tilt the moonroof up. 3. Release the moonroof switch after the moonroof moves slightly up and down. 4. Push and hold the OPEN side of the moonroof switch to fully tilt the moonroof down. 5. Check if the moonroof switch operates normally. [post_title] => Retiming procedure for an Infiniti G35 and G37 Window and Moonroof [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => retiming-procedure-for-an-infiniti-g35-g37-window-and-moonroof [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 13:40:44 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 20:40:44 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1584 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Overview: This DIY is to help install a G35 style Spoiler with brake light on the Altima Coupe Difficulty: 3 Time: 1 - 2.5 hours hours depending on skill level and how carefully everything is done People: possible with one, easier with 2 (for holding purposes and lining it up (second opinion)) Cost: To get this done by someone it can cost anywhere from 60-$120 depending on who you know. Brake light spoilers are closer to $100 to get someone to install them... Tools: Drill bits and power drill, Screw driver (flat head), Tape,Wire cutters Experience: Need to have some experience with a drill and also with wiring. Impressions: The install is not as straight forward on our cars as made out to be. The trunk lid has a lot of metal and requires more than just 4 holes to be drilled... In total each hole has to go through the first layer of metal, then there is another 1-2 layers (depending on location) of metal on the inside of the trunk that need to be drilled. However the spoiler does look very nice once everything is finished. Procedure Step 1: Clean the trunk lid, only mildly for you don't push a bunch of dirt around to scratch your paint. Open the trunk lid and the spoiler to lay everything out. (suggestion: make sure to set the spoiler upside down with something soft underneath). Step 2: (no picture) Make sure to remove the plastic by the led light before starting the install. I used a screw driver to LIGHTLY pry the plastic peace out since the clear plastic is tucked into the spoiler itself. Step 3: Remove the plastic adhesive from the cardboard guides and center them in the holes. Step 4: Place spoiler on the trunk and position to your liking. Make sure that you also let the LED wire loose so the spoiler will sit flush. Once positioned. Tape the cardboard pieces that we stuck to the bottom in step 3 to the trunk lid. Also put a piece of tape down by the LED light and mark where the wire would come down perpendicular to the spoiler (straight down towards the ground). Then CAREFULLY remove the spoiler. These will be your guides to drill the holes. (attention: they rip very easily, you want to try and do it one at a time) Step 5: Remove the cover from the inside of the trunk lid by prying those plastic grommets off. (attention: they break easily, use either a flat head screw driver or something similar to the one seen in the picture). Also watch out for the trunk release, you will have to find where the two prongs that stick into the metal are and push them in then pry out from the left and the right side. Be sure to set them down someplace safe since you will need them after the install. Step 6: Measure the space between the LED wire and the red tape (at the back of the spoiler by the light). Should be around 2 inches so you know where your LED wire hole will go. That distance from the tape that we put down behind the LED light in step #4. Step 7: Drill holes with power drill. Make a small hole at the top (4 for the screws and 1 for LED light). Use the guides that were tapped down and also the mark you made in step #6 for LED wire. Make sure you lean into it because you don't want the drill to slip, go very slowly. This is where you should take your time. Step 8: Once all of the holes are driller remove the tape. Then use a larger drill bit to make the holes a little bigger. Step 9: Then take a small but strong drill bit and drill through the holes made through the first layer of metal on the top of the trunk through the rest of the layers. When the trunk is vertical, the two holes that are closer to the ground inside the trunk have to go through 2 pieces of metal. The ones closer to the ceiling will only have to go through one more piece. Once small holes have been made from the top of the trunk, take a larger drill bit and make the holes a bit bigger from the INSIDE of the trunk (enough to fit the washer through). (attention: this could dent your trunk if you drill too hard and do not go slow. If you GO SLOW then you will have no problem with this). You might have to re-tighten the drill bit as the metal braces (middle layer of metal closer to the ground is very thick). Step 10: Clean the trunk lid and BLOW OFF the metal shavings that were on your trunk and around your car with compressed air! Make sure to let whatever you put down dry so the adhesive will stick properly. Step 11: Peel some of the red protector for the adhesive on the back of spoiler off and tape it to the outsides of the spoiler as shown. This is so you can peel them off when it comes time to tighten the spoiler. Also this way you won't have to get the adjustment of the spoiler right the first time! Step 12: Now this is when you will get someone to hold the spoiler and you insert the LED wires into the hole and get someone to move the spoiler so the holes will line up (you should be looking from within the trunk) (TRICK: you can thread the screw threw the hole so it shows from the top of the spoiler to make lining it up easier). Then screw in the two higher sides of the spoiler then the bottom ones. DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN YET... FIRST remove the adhesive protector that we taped the corners of in step 10. Then tighten the spoiler down. After apply some force with your hands to ensure it sticks all around. Step 13: Wiring the spoiler: Remove the bottom cover within the trunk, close to speakers and also the left (drivers) side panel so you will be able to wire. First feed the wire through the layers of the trunk so it comes out the drivers side close to the bottom. Step 14:Wire the LED into the brake light which will be on the drivers side. This is the part where I had my friend who is an electrician do it. He used a clamp for splicing the wire. To find which wire you can use a current detector and have someone step on the brake and make sure the LED lights up. Unfortunately it is tight in there and only space for one person to work. So I was unable to get pictures of this. Step 15:Once the LED will light up, put the covers back on the side, roof of trunk and the top of the trunk. Make sure to use a vacuum in your trunk to clean out the metal shavings. I would like to Thank CAR PROS COLLISION in Regina for letting me install the spoiler in their shop and helping throughout the install. Originally done by Chuck2417 [post_title] => Installing an Infiniti G35 Style Spoiler w/ Brake Light on an Altima Coupe [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => installing-an-infiniti-g35-style-spoiler-w-brake-light-on-an-altima-coupe [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 15:23:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 22:23:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1600 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => In 2008, Infiniti went BMW hunting with the new 2008 G37 coupe. In a highly argued comparison, Motor Trend magazine ranked the G37 coupe over the 2007 BMW 335i and concluded "More muscle and technology deliver BMW brilliance on a budget". Definitely something the BMW loyalists disagreed with. Kudos to the new model were not limited to Motor Week as AutoWeek stated the G37 is "lively and fun, giving way just enough when pushed to keep us interested while maintaining that balance and comfort necessary to keep the car great to live with as a daily driver." Automobile magazine went one giant step further. “We can now say the words that BMW fans (your humble author included) will hate to hear: Infiniti has set its sights squarely at BMW, and the new G37 is a shot that hits the 3 Series square in its Angel Eyes." The Detroit News summed the G37 story up quite nicely. "On the luxury car checklist, the Infiniti G37 coupe checks almost every box. It's got the power, the class and the sophistication its competitors possess." Not one to sit on its laurels, Infiniti keeps improving the G-Series in a relentless quest for class supremacy. In 2008, a new G coupe was released, offering a new 330hp 3.7L V6 with 270 lb/ft of torque and a Variable Valve Event and Lift (VVEL) system that makes the most of it. The G37 transmissions received high praise. The Los Angeles Times said, "Characteristic of the current generation of smart-shifters, the automatic will vigorously blip the throttle on downshifts and will refrain from up-shifting while cornering hard to avoid upsetting the car's balance." On Sport models, the automatic transmission is controlled manually via two paddle shifters mounted on the steering column. A reviewer for the Boston Globe reported, "This current generation of paddle shifting automatics has grown on me, especially when the transmission does not interfere before the red line is bumped and can smoothly handle RPMs on quick downshifts." The stick shift remains a favorite with Car and Driver, however. They report, "The shift throws are short, and so is clutch-pedal travel, which engages with a smoothness that BMW is only beginning to approach with the latest 3 Series. "With sexy new lines, more power and greater sophistication, 2008 was the year for the Infiniti G37 coupe. For 2009, Infiniti is building on a winning combination and expanding the G37 lineup. 2009 G37 Coupe
Thanks To Forza Motorsport 3 This G-Coupe Can Also Keep Pace in CyberspacePhotos By Vince Lei We have all drooled over the buff-bodied and heavily boosted Skyline, Fairlady and GT-R racers that deal out the pain in JGTC competition. We have also envisioned driving our own cars on some the world’s most famous tracks. That dream can be tapped into on Forza Motorsport 3, the latest driving simulation game from Microsoft’s Turn 10 Studios. The Nissan Nation can build the car they park in their garage, complete with in-depth performance mods, and drive it at locales like Le Mans, Tsukuba Circuit, Twin Ring Motegi, Suzuka, Nurburgring or one of the game’s fictional venues like the drifter paradise known as Fujimi Kaido. Thanks to Forza 3’s intensely developed physics model the drive will feel real. Physics of Friction—Grip, The Name Of The Game The physics model is a compilation of mathematic algorithms that magically transform into feelings in the controller, the feeling of tires struggling for grip at the ragged edge of adhesion. Forza 3 designers go to great lengths to simulate what happens between the tire and the tarmac and the game breaks new ground in the depth and detail of player feedback. “Our physics model is like a weather system in that all the parameters are intimately interrelated,” says Forza game director Dan Greenawalt. “So weather forecasting is more accurate now than it was two years ago, which was more accurate than two years before that. So a weather forecasting system from eight to 10 years ago is thoroughly obsolete. Same with game physics.” “It comes down to learning more about variables; the eastern tradewinds, heat from the surface, the effects of hot and cold fronts on a more detailed scale, wind, pressure, moisture, there are a whole bunch of variables. Well tire physics are just the same you have ambient temperature, heat coming off the pavement, how you drive the tire, how far over peak you go which heats up the outside of the tire then the gases inside the tire heat up changing the air pressure inside the tire. The road surface’s coefficient of friction, how smooth it is, its incline and the consequences of that extra heat on the overall handling characteristics of the car in question including the tire width, sidewall size and compound, the suspension’s habits, vehicle weight and driveline configuration and many other contributing variables. We have tried to think of all the angles.” “All that heat ingestion effects how tire deformation works. It is all inter-related. You can’t pick and choose what to simulate you have to simulate everything. Just like looking at a weather system. You can’t say that you learned that the tradewinds do this but we decided not to put it into our math model. You have the data and you have to include it because a few years from now we will know more and we have to be vigilant so when we update our math model we are building from solid base. It is our prime commitment, a commitment to make the physics better each time, be thorough, use the best technology available because there’s a lot riding on this physics exercise.” Infiniti Infusion—Colin Reed’s G35 Many Turn 10 designers appreciate a spirited drive and will go the extra mile to roll in style. Lead software development engineer Colin Reed is one of the more devout as evidenced by his supremely modified 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe. The VQ35DE has been built for boost with 9:1 compression pistons from Arias secured by GT Motorsports rods to the stock crankshaft. A GReddy twin-turbo package with 18G turbos serves as the foundation of the G’s boost therapy plan. A TiAL Sports 38mm wastegate, GReddy Type RS blow-off valve and Stillen cat-back exhaust keeps both sides of the turbos flowing smoothly. Reed has upgraded to 550cc RC Engineering injectors, a Walbro 255 lph pump and CJM Stage 1 fuel return upgrade to fuel the beast, Boost control is handled by a Blitz SBC i-D and the combination was tuned to razor sharpness via a TurboXS UTEC engine management system. Reed did the tuning honors himself and extracted an impressive 557 wheel-horsepower at 17.5 psi. The G sits on JIC Magic FLT-A2 coilovers, rolls on limited edition 19-inch Volk RE-30 wheels with sick lip and sports a trick KurumaZ body kit shipped special from Japan. Reed’s hood is another piece of eye candy. He runs a Seibon carbon fiber hood with additional vents that has been color matched save for a fade treatment near the vent opening. The white slowly gives way to the carbon fiber at the lip of the vents, a cool touch. Reed’s level of modification can be easily recreated in Forza Motorsport 3. Cars, Tuning —The Heart And Soul Of Forza 3 There are 400 cars ready to roll in FM3 with more on the way via downloads. All of the cars are ranked to ensure fair racing. The scale goes from A to F for production cars and just like in school good grades are better so A cars spank F cars. Race cars are categorized and S and R3, R2 and R1, with R1 being the boldest of the bold. The letter is followed by a numeric ranking that positions the car within its class. So a Datsun 510 at F-102 is a step behind a Versa SL at F-128 and a Skyline 2000 GT-R at F-131. The ultimate Nissan weapon is the Le Mans R390 prototype at R2-846 followed closely by JGTC GT-R at R2-842 and JGTC Skyline GT-R R34’s at R2-825. Top Secret’s D1-Spec S15 Silvia checks in at S-648. As players race in the game they earn credits, which can be used to buy better cars, cool paint schemes and more performance. Parts can be bought individually or as packages in Forza 3’s Quick Upgrade menu that selects the level of modification based on a target class of cars. Using a 2004 Infiniti G35, like Reed’s as an example, the G-Coupe, which costs 17,000 credits, starts life with a D-346 rating. The accompanying charts illustrate the G35‘s in-game tuning potential via Quick Upgrade. Infiniti G35 Quick Upgrade
|C-425||Evo X, Impreza WRX STI|
|B-500||Mustang GT, Camaro SS|
|A-600||Lamborghini Murcielago LP640, Audi A8|
|S-700||Saleen S7, Maserati MC12|
|Class||HP||Lat G||Curb Weight (lbs)|
August 16th, 2008: G37 Release DayWith August 16th rapidly approaching, Infiniti dealerships are starting to receive their first G37 coupes for the unveiling ceremonies happening across the country. Numerous members of NICO are heading out to dealerships in order to get an early "sneak peek" at the new "top dog" of the 2008 Infiniti lineup. With the release of the 2008 G37 Coupe, Infiniti enters the market segment with a first-class coupe capable of hanging with or bettering other manufacturers similar platform offerings,and with a significantly lower price point. The overall ability of these vehicles will not be fully known until a few new owners can get through the break-in periods and begin performing dyno tests for adequate power figures. The resulting numbers are expected to be higher than those published. I hope aftermarket parts suppliers are keeping close watch for there will soon be quite a few G37 enthusiasts looking for customized product lines for these new beauties. The countdown has begun and those who have pre-ordered their vehicles are chomping at the bit for their arrival and pictures of the vehicles are being posted online by enthusiastic Infiniti dealerships. We at NICO will be attending ceremonies across the country so expect a full article on the events taking place at Infiniti dealerships as the sale of the new coupe is enthusiastically ramped up. Infiniti is bumping things up a notch and enthusiasts are pleased. Everyone else had better look out! NICOclub would like to take a moment to thank Brad at Team Infiniti in Oxnard, CA and Mark at Circle Infiniti of West Long Branch, NJ for supplying NICOclub members with the pictures within this article. Author: Matthew Moody (audtatious) audtatious is a NICOclub Administrator and Nissan enthusiast. Moodym.com [post_title] => Infiniti G37 Arrive at Dealerships Across the Nation [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-g37-vehicles-arrive-at-dealerships-across-the-nation [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-11-20 21:59:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-11-21 04:59:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1610 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_content] => NICOclub Exclusive: Tracking the G37 Convertible...Kinda But I’m a Sedan guy? Its 5:23 am Sunday morning, I am on I-10 headed east speeding between the photo radar locations. I am on my way to Firebird Raceway, on "Special Assignment" from NICO to photograph and drive the new G37 Convertible. The new G37 Convertible has been a blurb in all my car magazines for a few months now with many guesses at what the car will look like. Indifference best describes my mood, it’s a new Infiniti but I’m a sedan guy. Convertibles are chick cars, sacrificing precious pounds for the ability of the driver of the car next to you to see your spray tan and fake Prada earrings, or so I thought. Arriving at the track just after 6am it’s just the Infiniti of Scottsdale crew and me. I find Mal, the sales manager, and introduce myself. As we walk over to a group of new cars it is apparent the new G37C is hiding under a cover. Mal warns me that it is a hideous shade of red. As I help him with the car cover I talk about what I want to do with the car. I want to get it away from the group. Park it on the track for some photos; get it over to Firebird Lake for some sunrise on the water shots. Mal says do whatever I need to do, just have the car back by 7am and keep it on the racetrack property. See, this car doesn’t have a license plate and is really just a running prototype destined for a car crusher at the end of its PR tour. Miraculously, in a moment of insanity, Mal hands me a plastic grocery bag with keys to all the new Infinitis at the event which consist of an FX50S, SEMA Stillen G37, G37S, G37 sedan, FX35, M45 and the new G37C. As I am photographing the group in dawn light I start to wonder if I could sneak all these cars off property before anyone notices. Mal comes back and wisely asks for the rest of the keys back. Mal also thanks his guardian angel that I was filling in for Greg (AZhitman), who'd have already shagged three of the fleet on the track by now. I fire up the G37C, and immediately noticed the exhaust sounds is a little racier then my G35 sedan. Quickly, I remind myself I am a sedan guy. I get in and move the car into gear after a quick warm up. Pulling out onto Firebird’s technical short track, I have to remind myself I can not hot lap this car regardless of the pressure my right foot is wanting to put on the accelerator. Fifteen miles per hour has never seemed so slow. Parking in turn 2 of the course I get out and start shooting. The lines are different then my sedan with the front haunches having a masculine look as if the car is a cat which is ready to pounce. The back reminds me slightly of the mid 90’s 240sx if only so slightly. I find myself staring at the car wasting valuable time and wasting natural light. Back in the G37C I fire up the motor again and immediately think the exhaust tone sounds even better the second time. Not wanting to disappoint, I’ve recorded it for the masses to experience. Once jumping back into the leather-laden G, I realized that I was already past the last entrance to the track and decide I was forced to drive around the track again to reach the pit entrance. Being responsible I don’t push it past 20 miles per hour regardless of wanting to see what she would do. Exiting the track, Mal flags me down; I think I’m in trouble for going around the track but he just wants to shine the tires and dust the body. This is a chance to pop the hood and check out the engine. When the tires are clean I hop back in and drive over to the lake. My timing is perfect; the first red orange rays of the sun are piercing the dark blue dawn sky. I quickly park the car with the back against the water and get some ‘rising sun’ pictures with and without flash, slow and fast shutter. The first thought I had, while looking through the lens was “This car is so sexy” and I took the opportunity to actually take some pictures of me with it. Unfortunately it was time to head back to the pits, hoping to beat the Infiniti Engineers. I can imagine Mal trying to explain why the G37C is off with some kid that bought a used 07 Sedan from him two years ago. Throughout the day I keep finding myself taking pictures of the G37C. People start asking me about it. I try to justify the sedan over it, few hundred pounds heavier, 7 speed, low roof line and look at the ugly burnt red paint, which is not really bad on the car itself. I see my friend, pro driver Amy Elizondo and thought to get some pictures of her with the G37C. I don’t know what it is about this car but I simply can’t stop taking pictures of it. As I was there to race, my buddy and I head out on the track for our 3rd heat. We are driving with the windows down, wearing nomex socks and helmets, talking about the G37C. We head into turn 7 and I feel a slight pedal pulse while slowing from 85 mph down to 65 mph. In turn 8 there is almost no brake pedal left at all. Luckily the Kumho V710 racing slicks can scrub off enough speed which allowed me to stay on the track although I felt a 4 wheel drift for a few seconds at 60+ mph. Coming into the pits the smell of brakes is overwhelming. We park and I start to put on my street tires for the trip home when a twin turbo 2004 G35 owner comes over to borrow some tools and comments something is on fire due to the smell emanating from my car. Is it a coincidence that my sedan would have complete brake fade, for the first time, while I have been dallying with the G37C? Finally, the end of the day has come and I have thus far resisted ordering a new G37 Convertible. I met with a nice Infiniti Engineer as he wanted a ride in my car and to talk with me about the future of the G35. After a short conversation I realize I was telling him how much I like the new convertible and was discussing cost instead of concentrating on the G35 I own. We are in my car at this point, flying down I-10 at triple digits without my realization. Is my sedan trying to get me a ticket out of jealousy? The engineer and I exchange email addresses and plan to meet for lunch at the end of the month. Driving home I feel a little sick, I’m a sedan guy but I’m in love with the G37 convertible. It’s something I would not have believed this morning.
[post_title] => Infiniti G37 Convertible Exclusive Road Test [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-g37-convertible-exclusive-road-test [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-02-20 23:51:12 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-02-21 06:51:12 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1718 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
Infiniti G37 Long-Term Road Test - Part IIWhat happened to a 6th months owners review? 6 months, 8 months, 10 months, it's all good.Time has flown by as is usually the case when you start getting older.I long for the days of youth when time seemed to stand still but that is neither here nor there. This is supposed to be an owners update of a 2008 Infiniti G37, so let's get with it. Since the initial 2 months owners review I have racked up an additional 12k miles on the odometer, had her (I'm a he, she's a she) at a couple of car shows, performed some upgrade sand have run her at the track.Never fear, I will touch on each of these further below. G37Driver, the original2 Month Owners Reviewor one of the other NICO overviews available via the NICO Articles or NICO Reviews main pages. Since the 2 months owners review I have used the car quite often as this G37 is a daily driver and not a garage queen. I have put over 12k miles on the car since the first review and honestly enjoy it more and more.For the most part I can't really find too much wrong with it.The car has good power, handles well, the suspension and ride is what you would expect from a luxo-sports coupe and the interior's a great design.Does that mean the car is perfect?Of course not. For all the positive aspects there are surely some annoyances. Interior NICOfest at Import Alliance meet with two other G37 coupes, one provided by Infiniti. Ialso participated in the NICOfest Atlanta Motor sports Nationals event where she spent the weekend next to another new G37 coupe.Realize, I don't think of the G37 as a show car in the least but it's always nice to show support for the NICO Nissan and Infiniti community. In stock form I am surprised at the amount of attention the car receives wherever it may be. G37.moodym.com Upgrades Over the last 10 months I have made a couple of minor changes to the car itself. From an enthusiasts standpoint I can never leave a vehicle alone and have performed a couple of minor changes to the car to suit my tastes. The first modification was the simple task of tinting the windows (35% front, 20% rear). Not a big change but something that helps with heat/glare and it does give a white car a nice look. Within the first couple months of ownership I had a 3M clear-bra added to the car which covers the nose, mirrors and1/2 of the hood and front fenders. I have also performed upgrades to the Xenon lighting.The factory 4300 kelvin headlights were upgraded to 6000k and I also replaced the stock halogen fog lights with matching 6000k Xenon HID's. Additionally I replaced the factory parking lamp bulb with a 5-led replacement.None of these upgrades are due to limitations with the car itself as they simply meet my tastes. Review by: Matthew Moody (audtatious), NICOclub Administrator - www.moodym.com 3.20.2009 [post_title] => 2008 Infiniti G37 Long Term Road Test (installment 2, 10 months) [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2008-infiniti-g37-lont-term-road-test-installment-2-10-months [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 21:01:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 04:01:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1719 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
Infiniti G37 Long-Term Road Test - Part I
While road tests can give one an overall first impression of an automobile, only an ownerof said vehicle will be able to offer the most complete insight of what heartache or pleasure may be obtained with the car over the long term. What may be fun for a day may be wearing after weeks worth of use or there may simply be some uniqueness to the vehicle that was not discovered until you have had to face daily trials with the vehicle. Even then, the opinion of one person must always be taken with a grain of salt as one person’s pleasure is another's pain.With that said, the following is my personal overview of the 2008 Infiniti G37 sport coupe after 2 months of ownership.If you find this helpful, please check back in for the next review scheduled at 6 months.
If we look at NICOclub's coverage of this generation of the G-series coupe we begin with the 2006 Infiniti Concept, leaking of the first photographs prior to the 2007 New York Auto Show and the August 16th, 2008 Dealership Unveiling Ceremonies. We then move to our initial road test of the G37 itself. One thing you will notice is there are two individual entities which are a part of each article:The Infiniti G coupe and myself. As a Nissan enthusiast I have followed this vehicle from concept to release and so enjoyed the initial test drive I finally purchased one as my daily driver.With the purchase I felt the urge to continue coverage with milestone ownership reports in which this is the first installment.
The particular vehicle I chose is a G37 Journey in Ivory Pearl with the Sport and premium packages.I was hoping for a 6mt sport model but that idea was quickly nixed by the wife as she despises manual transmissions and with the need to swap cars from time to time I knew a 6-speed was not in the cards.The two packages upgrade the generous Journey configuration by adding:
Viscous Limited-Slip Differential (VLSD)Upgraded brakes (4-piston front and 2-piston rear calipers, with 14.0-inch front and 13.8-inch rear brake discs)Sport tuned suspension19" lightweight 10-spoke rimsUnique front fascia and side sillsFront sport seats with thigh extension and driver’s power torso and thigh supportSolid magnesium paddle shifters mounted on steering column Aluminum pedals
Power moon roofInfiniti “Studio on Wheels” sound systemiPod interface2-way power driver’s seat lumbar support Memory system for driver’s seat, steering wheel and outside mirrorsDriver’s seat, steering wheel, and outside mirror position synchronization Power tilt and telescoping steering column synchronizes gauge cluster with column for improved visionAutomatic anti-glare rearview mirror with HomeLink® Universal Transceiver and compass Bluetooth® Hands-Free Phone SystemHeated outside mirrors
Based upon availability, and personal taste in some aspects, I chose not to get the Technology package, Navigation package nor all-wheel steering.
Now, with each vehicle purchased the purpose of the vehicle may be somewhat different.From my perspective I wanted a daily commuter to replace my 2002 Nissan Maxima. Replacement may be a strong word as the Maxima itself has simply been shuffled to my wife so I have the pleasure of owning two Nissan products with award-winning VQ power plants and excellent looks. Regardless, the G37 now has a role of highway warrior and after hours commuter. With my "real job" I support a large tri-city area and 2-3 times a week I am driving at least 4 hours a day and sometimes 8+ hours as the need requires.On weekends and after hours I use it to make grocery runs and other inane in-town tasks as my spousal unit demands.
So, now that we have established what my normal driving is like, the question I have to ask myself is "how does it compare to the observations I made during the initial road test". Well, pretty close.While I still feel the same way about the positive aspects I reported, I feel completely different about the negative aspects (want to know what those were?Read the article). Coming from a FWD sedan to a RWD coupe took a bit of transitioning to the point where I now dislike driving the Maxima.To be fair, dislike is too strong of a word as the Maxima is still a fine car. Regardless, after 4000 miles and 2 months of use here are my current feelings about the G37.
Finally, from a paint perspective I found out that Ivory Pearl is a 1-year run so those with white cars should be happy they have a limited run color code.To date I have not had any issues with the paint other than one small nick in the front bumper to be fixed prior to installation of a clear bra (which I highly suggest owners look into to protect the nose from damage).
Interior and electronics
I find that the car has a lot of space for drinks with two console cup holders, the doors can each hold a 20oz bottle and the rear has its own cup holders.No issues there at all.I do find the space in the center console to be somewhat limited if you are using the accessory plug-in or keep an iPod connected within the console itself. The glove box is also minute in comparison to Nissan products I have owned in the past.
The Studio on Wheels sound system is pretty impressive in my book and that is a hard thing for me to say.I have been into aftermarket car audio since the early 1980's and I tend to strip out factory systems and put in new.Not in this case as I'm satisfied with the factory Bose performance.Does that mean all is perfect? Nope. From a stereo perspective the iPod interface can be annoying as you have to muck with the iPod itself at times to get the songs to pull up (not an Infiniti issue) and when youfirst start the car with the iPod attached it goes directly to it instead of staying on radio/CD/XM.From an XM standpoint I would like to see more integration with the steering wheel.The steering wheel controls will allow you change between music/talk genre's but will not allow you to change to individual stations thus you have to use the center-mounted tuning knob.With over 200 XM stations this can be a time consuming process. Yes, you can program XM stations into memory which is a plus. The in-dash monitor itself does a good job although I have noticed that it does get somewhat washed out via sunlight every once in a while, something I did not notice during the test drive.
From a phone perspective, the Bluetooth works beautifully.I have yet to have any problems hearing a contact on the phone nor with me coming through clearly to the person on the other line.You have the capability of storing phone numbers within the car’s phone book as well. To do so you have to verbally store the name and number and you can only do this while parked, not driving. This would be a worthwhile exercise if you do not have a large number of contacts but I find myself using my phones contact listing instead. As I do not have the Navigation package I am not sure if you can upload contact lists into the phone via the compact flash card or not.
Performance and Drivability
Initial observations during my test drive review listed that the gas and brake pedals seemed a bit close and the steering was a bit firm and overly dampened. After three months of driving the car I find it hard to go back to my Nissan sedan as its pedals now seem too far apart and the steering seems too loose. As expected, ownership of the car solved the majority of these issues within my mind as I grew accustomed.
From a highway perspective, the faster the speed limit, the more the car begs to beromped on.While I have bumped it up to 120 once, I’d prefer to avoid an emergency lane meeting with Johnny Law. I'm a "keep it on the track" kind of guy and hope to really be able to put it through its paces on a track at some time in the future.During city driving I have noticed that it is kind of "clunky" and a tad bit rough as the automatic transmission searches for my true intentions. This is felt as some hesitation here and there during slow acceleration (with and without dynamic control turned on) while in normal drive mode. I have yet to pinpoint the cause at this point and it is only somewhat noticeable in the first place so it may have to be chalked up to "business as usual". Whether on the highway or city streets the ride is firm and controllable without any annoying harshness that is felt in other vehicles with sport suspension systems.
Being an automatic, the car has two driving modes which consist of 4 driving options.Standard drive mode is calm until you press the right pedal to the floor. Even then it will somewhat try and maintain an evenness to its shifting. Move the shifter to the left into DS mode and it's a different beast as the transmission begins to rev-match and keep you in the peak of the VQ’s power band as much as possible to allow for spirited driving. For more manual control you can utilize the shifter to manually shift gears up or down. The fourth option is again within the DS mode and allows you to shift up or down via the steering column mounted paddle shifters. I have yet to determine which mode I like the best at this point and I play with three DS modes all the time unless I am on the highway in which standard drive mode gives the best fuel economy.
All-in-all, I find the car comfortable regardless of road conditions and sporty when I want it to be.
Economy, Maintenance costs and Dealerships
As the majority of my driving is highway, I still tend to have mixed driving on a dailybasis.I also tend to have a somewhat heavy foot from a stop.Average fuel economy in this highway-heavy mixed mode has been around 22MPG.As time progresses and the engine is further broken in I would expect to see that number rise a tad.
From a maintenance perspective, Infiniti suggests an initial 3,000 mile oil changewith inspection.I had this performed at the cost of $48.80. Upon initially purchasing the vehicle I noticed that the brakes seemed to shimmy a bit when slowing down from high speeds. Upon inspection it was obvious that something had gotten on the rotors eitherat the dealership itself or during the first few days of driving as they looked spotted.Initially, Infiniti wanted to try sanding down the rotors instead of turning them to resolve the issue but I was on my way out of town at the time and my work schedule would not allow me the opportunity to swing by and pick it up afterwards. By the time I was able to drop the car back off at my local dealership they had hot-spotted and warped, thus needing the rotors turned on all four corners.Infiniti provided me with a new EX35 loaner and repaired the brakes at no cost.
A rave review I have for Infiniti is the friendliness and support of their employees.I purchased the car in one state (Infiniti of Cincinnati, OH) and utilize that location along with my local dealership (Sam Swope Infiniti in Louisville, KY) for any and all questions and maintenance.
Months of Ownership:2 months
Vehicle list price:$41,300 + $500 for aftermarket spoiler
Maintenance:$48.80 for 3000 mile inspection and oil change
Repairs:$0 for warranty brake repairs
Miles Per Gallon:22MPG in mixed city/highway driving
Review by:Matthew Moody (audtatious), NICOclub Administrator
8.14.2008 [post_title] => 2008 Infiniti G37 long term Road Test (installment 1, 2 months) [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2008-infiniti-g37-long-term-road-test-installment-1-2-months [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 21:01:28 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 04:01:28 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1720 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
Like a tsunami headed for shore the newest member of the Infiniti stable has created a splash that has already been felt by the likes of BMW, and it is not even for sale yet. The car? Infiniti's new 2008 G37 Coupe.When will the wave crest and hit the shore?August 21st at an Infiniti dealership near you.
Since the release of the 2007 Infiniti Concept, there has been a lot of internet discussions and speculation concerning the latest refresh of the G series. The 2007 G35 Sport Sedan was the first look at what direction Infiniti was heading. With its new styling, more refined instrumentation and features, stiffer chassis and revised VQ35 power plant, Infiniti gave some insight as to the next coupe design to be released for the 2008 model year. This was later followed by pre-release photo's and information concerning the new coupe prior to the 2007 New York Auto Show. Since that time frame, numerous magazines have driven and tested the new G37 including a Motor Trend comparison titled "The King is Dead; How Infiniti's G37 Beat BMW's 335i Coupe" which sparked some interesting internet debate between BMW enthusiasts and Nissan/Infiniti enthusiasts. Regardless,the G37 has been delivered to Infiniti dealerships across the country in preparation for its release celebration on August 16th. Infiniti has successfully ramped up the masses in preparation of the G37 release, but is the car really up to it? While being no pro at test driving cars for comparisons, I felt it was time to throw my .02 into the arena and see what this car is all about.
With a Saturday open to myself, I headed over to Sam Swope Infiniti which is located on the east side of Louisville, KY. Upon arrival, I started scoping out the lot for the G, but to no avail. I saw an awesome M45 sport, a couple of '07 G35 coupes and sedans but no G37 on the lot nor in the show room. With a bit of disappointment I grabbed salesman Ned Wood, whom I had met previously during a test drive of a '07 G35 Sport Sedan, and asked him if they had received a G37. Indeed they had, it was simply being used for a test drive at the time. Ned and I spent the time waiting for the G37 to return by discussing the changes within the new generation G37 Coupe and the noticeable power difference it has with the new VQ37VHR in comparison to the VQ35HR in the Sport Sedan that I had previously driven. Once the G37 was returned, I was up to bat and ready to jump behind the wheel.
Now, I have met a large number of salesmen in my day. For the most part, a majority of them have no real clue about the vehicle they are showing and can only speak from the brochure or what they have been told. Put a real Nissan enthusiast in front of these guys and they fold like a stack of cards in the wind. I'm glad to say that Ned is not one of them. As an X-BMW guy and racer he is a true car enthusiast and knows all about the vehicles he sells. I've studied information on the car, I've written articles about the car and have built websites for the car (www.g37driver.com), yet Ned still knows more about the model than I do. This makes it a real pleasure for me to find out information and viewpoints on this new model, and while I will usually refuse to take a test drive with a salesman in the car Ned is one of those exceptions.So, after going over some of the new interior and exterior changes, checking out the new braking system and engine of the fully loaded G37S, we head out with Ned behind the wheel.
Ned has a set course for test drives that he likes to take people on. First is a nice tight sweeping curve at a relatively quick pace. This is followed by a spirited sprint from a stop to show its off the line performance. Even with the A/C blasting and the car in automatic mode with traction control enabled, I could tell a difference between this G and its sister Sport Sedan. Of course, when comparing 330hp to 306hp you should. Finally, I get behind the wheel for a nice 20-minute drive. One of the first things I notice is how smooth the suspension is over rough road work. Is it stiff? Yes, but not in a jarring way. With my daily driver being a Maxima rolling on stiff Eibach Springs and performance-adjusted struts, I was highly surprised at how comfortable the G37 was as not once during the trip did I cringe when hitting bumps. The throttle itself was light and did not have any of the quirks that new G35 owners have somewhat complained about. Traction control did its job in making sure the rear end was planted to the pavement no matter how hard I launched it. During this first portion of my test drive, Ned pointed out how much quieter the exhaust seemed inside the cabin as compared to the earlier G35 variants. The sedate tones were pleasant and nowhere near the potentially-annoying growl I had experienced in the previous G35's nor Nissan's 350z.
While continuing on the test course, I am shown the functionality of the Navigation package and I must say that it is top notch. It easily recognized voice commands over the A/C system, was easy to understand and from a visibility perspective it worked flawless even with the sun streaming onto the dash. Seating was comfortable and easily adjusted to suit my tastes. Controls were logical, and with some time spent over viewing the options, would be easy to utilize on a daily basis. If you travel a lot, this is one Navigation system that would do you justice.
We finally arrive on a two-lane country road and I proceed to aggressively take the G through some hilly countryside. I realized very quickly that the G could easily handle a whole lot more than I was giving it. The shifts were smooth, precise and implemented quickly which is a nice change from my daily driver. The suspension handled the switch-backs and hill transitions superbly and the vehicle was not pulled in different directions due to uneven pavement which is further testament to the time Infiniti has spent tuning this suspension. The 5-speed automatic transmission is a joy to utilize and offers paddle shifters for enthusiasts to utilize while in sport mode, another function that was fun to play with. The last straight away buzzed by at an even 80mph as I did not feel like pushing it higher on this day (I believe I hit 100mph on this same road while testing the Sport Sedan). Looking back, I should have taken it up a couple of notches as the G seemed to be begging me to let'er loose. I'll have to save that for another day should I get a chance to take one out on a track. Better safe than sorry.
With the test drive over, it's time to reflect over my impressions of the vehicle itself. From a styling standpoint, I feel it is a smash hit. Pictures that have been posted do not do this car any justice at all. The interior quality is excellent and the functionality of the instrumentation and other equipment in the car is top notch. The vehicle is powerful throughout the RPMs and does not suffer any lag time with the automatic thanks to its rev-matching capabilities. With all those accolades, did I find anything I did not quite like? Yes, but they seem minor and something a new owner will get used to. During my drive I noticed while braking that I needed to physically move my foot over more than I am used to as the close proximity of the gas and brake pedals would have me pressing both simultaneously. I also noticed that during heavy cornering the steering was much harder to turn than the Nissan product I drive today and the steering seemed dampened to the pointthat I was missing out on some steering feed-back from the road. Finally, for those who may wish to utilize the back seat, I would not suggest shoving anyone other than a hated mother-in-law in the area as they will be cramped and relatively grumpy after the trip. Then again, if back seat space was a requirement you would not be looking at the Coupe, but the sedan instead.
Conclusion? With a base price just shy of $35,000, Infiniti has another winning vehicle on its hands. While I hope the information above is helpful to those interested in the G37, there is a lot of features and details that were not covered. For more vehicle-specific information please visitwww.G37Driver.com or NICOclubs G37-specific Online Forums for questions and answers from our extensive Nissan/Infiniti online community.
Special thanks go out to Ned Wood at Sam Swope Infiniti for today’s excursion.I know he will see me soon as a G37 is destined to be in my driveway.
Article By: Matthew Moody (audtatious) is a NICOclub Administrator
[post_title] => Road Test: 2008 Infiniti G37 Coupe [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => road-test-2008-infiniti-g37-coupe [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 21:01:49 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 04:01:49 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1742 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
custom oil plate spacer with 4 hole sensor and return
Split Second ECU
Apexi turbo timer
- Exhaust gas temp
- Oil pressure
- Air-fuel ratio
Vortech V-2 SQ SC-Trim
stainless braides oil supply and return lines
Vortech super sequential blow off valve
Test pipes(cat delete pipes)
HKS Hi-Power true dual exhaust
walbro in-line fuel pump
RC eng. 440cc injectors
High flow fuel filter
NGK Iridium IX plugs
Optima Redtop Battery
Speed Force Racing Transmission:
- Valve body upgrade
- 25% More clutch packs
- Transmission cooler
- 3300RPM stall Torque
Boss audio x2 12" 1500w blade riot GT's
Boss audio x2 1500w mono block D amps
Boss audio 4 farad capacitor
4 gage wire x2 ditribution blocks
suspention & tires:
stainless braided brake lines
ceramic composite brake pads
Eibach pro series springs
Eibach anti roll bars
Speed force rear camber kit
20" Koya race tek rims
- 8.5 rims
- Nitto 555 extreme 245/35-20
- 9.5 rims
- Nitto 555 extreme 275/35-20
High intensity 5-led lighting
Skyline 350GT badges
15% tint all around
July's ride is owned by NICO member kmech_7
My ride is a 2003 Infiniti G35.I debated between this car and a Nissan 350Z.My wife settled that debate by telling me we had to have 4 seats.In August 2006 I installed 20â€ Koya Rims.And of course, we lowered the car using an Eibach lowering system.
Then, in December 2006 my transmission went out.What a pain that was.I didnâ€™t get the car back until February 2007.In March 2007 I installed an HKS true dual exhaust.I had to take a 6 month break from playing with my car while I went overseas.My wife bought me a GREAT welcome home present though.A Vortech Supercharger!I couldnâ€™t install it until December 2007 though, we wiped our play money clean!With the help of 2 buddies (Red and Crash) the install took 12 hours and of course, our blood, sweat and tears.
Then my transmission went out again.So we rebuilt the transmission into a race transmission.Since then, I have been busy relocating to Chicago from San Diego so I havenâ€™t gotten to do much to my car.Iâ€™ve entered several car shows, and have serious plans for my car this winter.Including: powdercoating the supercharger, installing a Killerglass coolant tube and in general, focusing more on the â€œshowâ€ aspects of the car so that I can enter and win more car shows!All in all, my ride is a beast and I love everything about it!
[post_title] => Supercharged Infiniti G35: Nissan Forums Ride of the Month - December 2007 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => supercharged-infiniti-g35-nissan-forums-ride-of-the-month-december-2007 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 21:56:56 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 04:56:56 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1840 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Checking my list to see if I have everything covered one week before an HPDE event on one of Phoenix's best road courses... Got the track wheels, got the track tires, got the helmet, registration done, extra crap out of the car, fresh fluids... Something's missing. Yep - There's some chassis flex in the G35 that needs to be addressed, and FAST. Fortunately, the crew over at Phase 2 know a little about chassis tuning, having tested several combination's of parts on their Project 350Z. Wayne at Phase 2 was super-helpful and pointed out the trifecta of suspension bracing parts from Circuit Sports. Phase 2 is an exclusive Circuit Sports distributor. First part was the front strut tower brace .Every car could use one, and he explained that this one is really, really impressive. Next up, the Circuit Sports rear tie bar, which ties the two sides of the subframe together. Lastly, Wayne recommended the Circuit Sports front lower tie bar, which braces the two lower control arms. The parts arrived in record time, and upon receiving the box, I thought, "Crap. I gotta call Phase 2, this box is empty." Seriously, it couldn't have weighed more than 10 pounds total. So I open it up, expecting maybe ONE of the three parts. Instead, I pull out the lightest and best-looking front strut tower brace I've ever seen. No silly adjustment joints, no heavy cast-iron mounting feet, no Heim joints, just a clean, lightweight, beefy and stiff front strut tower brace. The front and rear underbody braces are equally light, with beautiful welds and a gorgeous finish - You'd think they made these for display! Being in a bit of a rush, I decided this installation wouldn't be taking place in my garage, it was time to call on the pros. Superior Racing Development in Tempe has several lifts and two of the best Techs in Arizona: Efrain and Kyle. These guys build some really impressive stuff, and their fabrication / installation work is top-notch. Rich (of AZ350Z fame) and Chris (AZDRIFT) were on hand to do this project, since it was a super-simple install. Indeed, it took me longer to unpack the parts and set up the camera than it did for them to do the install. As with any suspension modification, it's a good idea to ensure you're using the torque values from the FSM, and to recheck after several miles of driving. Initial impressions? Why didn't Infiniti include these parts from the factory? Handling, which was already impressive, is now rock-solid. Turn-in is crisper, more linear, and much more aggressive. The biggest improvement, however, is in responsiveness and feedback. The tires no longer feel "isolated", they feel connected, and the tactile impressions through the steering wheel are much more indicative of what is happening at the tire / surface interface. There's a slight increase in oversteer tendency, something that won't hurt the G35 - If it gets too pervasive, I can simply stiffen up the front sway bar a little or play around with tire pressures. Straight-line tracking is perfection, even at triple-digit speeds, but be prepared for the added responsiveness - High-speed lane changes are now a tiny incremental nudge of the steering wheel, and they happen RIGHT NOW. I'm certainly glad the Loop 202 was relatively empty today, it made a great preliminary testbed for the weekend's coming event. All in all, an impressive improvement in an already great-handling car. I'm looking forward to seeing how she does on the track this weekend! [post_title] => Infiniti G35 Chassis Stiffening With Phase 2 and SRD Parts - Overview and installation information [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-g35-chassis-stiffening-with-phase-2-and-srd-parts-overview-and-installation-information [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-11-15 21:44:16 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-11-16 04:44:16 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )  => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1872 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>
The 2007 Infiniti G35 Sedan
The 2007 G35 Sedan was a welcomed change in all aspects. Interior has been cleaned up using much more upscale materials, the 306HP VQ35HR, and a vast array of other goodies.The G35 combines "cool toys" with luxury and performance.
The last G35 I drove was a 2003 Coupe. All of my qualms with the G35 at that time seemed to at least have been addressed.The seats were much softer but were still supportive. The leather is very soft and smooth, and seems to be of very high quality. The only issue I had with the interior is the brushed aluminum is not really aluminum; however it feels solid with no compliance. They also moved the seat controls down on the side, which was a complaint by some but not really a problem with me.
So we were on our way, a simple press of the start button brings the famed VQ35HR to life.You definitely can feel something is there, unlike the M which purrs whisper quiet...
Still it idles smooth and quiet once it settles down, but Infiniti did not want us to forget about that thing that is in front of us!
Driving this beast is different than a previous model G35. I immediately put it into the manual shift mode, took off and was banging off the redline before I knew it!!! Man, that thing FLEW through 1st gear!!! After I got done with my 7500 RPM rampage, a quick touch forward of the gear shifter elicits an immediate and quick shift into 2nd gear, where the monster just keeps on going. This motor BLAZES through the gears, and actually that is one of my problems with this vehicle. I think that this car is under geared and it would be more enjoyable to spend a little more time in each gear. For straight line racing, it is best to leave it in Drive and let the computer shift for you, because it won’t forget where you might. I thought a shift light would be a nice addition, even the Pontiac Grand Prix that I occasionally drive, which is hardly comparable to this car, has one! The good side to all of this is there really is not a bad gear for the G35. It seems to pull no matter what gear you are in, so downshifting is not always necessary to get lightning fast acceleration. The transmission shifts different than the old G35 does. The shifts are very quick when you want them to, but velvety smooth when you want to remain civilized. The manual shifter is very much improved, as it actually shifts when you tell it to without hesitation. The ride is surprisingly smooth and handling is very tight. It gives a supportive ride with compliance to bumps. When you are not driving very hard, it has a very sterile feel to it, possibly due to the lack of a sport package, I suppose that most drivers would prefer not to feel the road. The sport probably has a feel that I would like more, and consulting the salesperson that was with me, seemed to agree with me. Still, the G35 provides flat cornering, and if you take a corner too hard the VDC simply does its job. It is not intrusive at all, like previous models. It also does not start dinging at you like other vehicles do; it simply blinks a small and inconspicuous light in the instruments. It simply will not let you overdrive the car!!! More grip would be nice, but like I said, I won't hold high expectations to Goodyear RSA's! I briefly sat in a G35 sport and it had a compact flash card reader to play MP3s (unfortunately it will not read pictures) with and also an adjustable seat bottom similar to the BMW. It also sports aux-in preouts in the center console with a nice dished area to put your MP3 player. The sport model has much more bolstering on the seats and for the minor added cost of the sport package; I would simply get the sport package to not have Goodyear RSA's! The BMW 335i
Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's G35 Forum and G37 Forum
Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's G35 Forum and G37 Forum
Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub's Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums
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Sporty and stylish, the G25 is competitively priced, and is winning the race with its excellent fuel economy.