NICOclub Staff – RicerX

August 5, 2014 by Greg

"nicoclub-staff-ricerx"

Staff Bio Zack (RicerX) Q50 / 370Z / VQ Moderator Zack (RicerX) is NICOclub’s resident Nissan/Infiniti optimist (despite the plethora of CVT offerings) and sucker for various car-related swag. He is well acquainted with Nissan’s recent VQ V6 offerings, having owned a V6 Altima Coupe, 370Z, and currently a Q50S, which is his current daily […]

NICOclub Staff – 2_Liter_Turbo

July 16, 2012 by Greg

"nicoclub-staff-2literturbo"

Staff Bio >> Steve (2_Liter_Turbo) SR20 Forum Moderator240sx Forum Moderator Hey there, my name is Steve Maxey. I grew up around cars, knowing how to work on them since an early age due to my Dad being an auto body expert as well as a backyard mechanic. However, the funny thing is that I wasn’t […]

NICOclub Staff – Sideways S12

July 16, 2012 by Greg

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FRANKLIN, Tenn. (Jan. 27, 2009) – Nissan is realigning some of its North American operations to ensure long-term competitiveness in the U.S. market. The actions include a restructuring of the Nissan North America (NNA) sales and marketing operations and the integration of Nissan Design America (NDA).

NNA is restructuring its sales and marketing field operations to be better positioned to serve dealers and consumers. Specific actions include transitioning from a field structure based on 11 regional sales offices to a new structure with seven regional sales offices and 23 satellite offices in 18 locations across the United States. This shift involves the closure of four regional sales offices: Nissan Mid-Atlantic in Herndon, Va.; Nissan Northwest in Pleasanton, Calif.; Infiniti Central in Aurora, Ill.; and Infiniti South in Atlanta.

Additional enhancements to the sales and marketing organization include expanded personnel assigned to support each dealer and the creation of a dedicated electric vehicle project team.

NDA is integrating its operations into its San Diego studio beginning April 1. This action is being taken to strengthen NDA’s role in Nissan’s global design organization by increasing the level of participation in the exploratory and advanced phases of North American and global design projects. This integration will result in the redeployment of the design facility in Farmington Hills, Mich., for use by other functions of the company. This does not impact the research and development operations at Nissan Technical Center North America, which has facilities in Farmington Hills and in Stanfield, Ariz.

Taken together, these actions will eliminate approximately 110 positions. Nissan intends to achieve the majority of these reductions through a voluntary transition plan.

In North America, Nissan's operations include automotive design, engineering, consumer and corporate financing, sales and marketing, distribution and manufacturing.Nissan is dedicated to improving the environment under the Nissan Green Program 2010, whose key priorities are reducing CO2 emissions, cutting other emissions and increasing recycling.More information on Nissan in North America and the complete line of Nissan and Infiniti vehicles can be found online at http://www.NissanUSA.com and http://www.InfinitiUSA.com

Contact Info: beancooker [post_title] => Nissan realigns U.S. sales, marketing and design operations [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => newspro-archive-4-1 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:53:56 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:53:56 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [2] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1257 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-19 17:22:33 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-20 00:22:33 [post_content] => Welcome to the new NICO!
Wednesday, February 23, 2005
Posted by: Greg

It's been a long time coming, but here it is.

We've come a long way - From a simple e-mail mailing list and a Yahoo Groups page, to a simple VBulletins forum, to a customized forum community, to a full-blown multi-page website. This solidifies our position as the most active and most comprehensive automotive resource on the Web for Nissan and Infiniti owners.

NICO owes its success to the more than 25,000 dedicated members who take time out of their day to share information, ask questions, buy, sell and trade parts, and contribute part of themselves to this great community we've created.

We'll be adding more and more content and "eye candy" in the coming months, and will be making some adjustments and tweaks as we go along, so be patient with us. We'll be asking for suggestions for continuous improvements soon, but for the time being, we hope you enjoy what you see, and we appreciate your loyalty and contributions.

Thanks for making NICO #1!

Your NICO Staff
Contact Info: Greg [post_title] => NICOclub.com upgrades to ZeroForum software [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => newspro-archive-3-1 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2009-12-20 17:46:29 [post_modified_gmt] => 2009-12-21 00:46:29 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [3] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1258 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-20 17:39:42 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-21 00:39:42 [post_content] => 2009 Nissan cube®
Friday, February 20, 2009
Posted by: Beancooker

Nissan North America, Inc. (NNA) today announced that the all-new 2009 Nissan cube® 1.8 will feature a starting Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP)* of $13,990 when it goes on sale in early May. Nissan also debuted a specialty vehicle model – the cube® 1.8 Krom. The new cube® Krom, developed by NNA’s new Specialty Vehicles Group, features exclusive exterior and interior treatments, elevating cube®’s unique styling to a sportier, more aggressive dimension. The 2009 Nissan cube® will now be offered in four versions, cube® 1.8, cube® 1.8 S, cube® 1.8 SL and cube® 1.8 Krom.

In addition, Nissan announced that the cube will be available with more than 40 individual accessories, ranging from a unique 20-color interior illumination kit and “shag carpeting” instrument panel inserts to aerodynamic body kits and custom 16-inch aluminum-alloy wheels – allowing cube owners to personalize their vehicles to reflect their own tastes and personalities.

A new “Reserve Your cube” program, which allows consumers to research and reserve the cube of their choice, will begin later in the month, following the release of complete cube model and option package pricing.

Exclusive Nissan cube® Krom Model
While every 2009 Nissan cube makes a bold statement against the backdrop of look-alike entry-level vehicles, the cube Krom is a standout with exclusive exterior and interior treatments designed to add character without overwhelming the innovative cube design. The cube Krom starts with the extensive list of cube 1.8 S model standard features, then adds a 3-bar chrome grille, 2-bar chrome front bumper grille, fully integrated front and rear fascias, body side sills, unique rear roof spoiler, exclusive 16-inch aluminum-alloy wheels and Krom rear emblem.

Inside, the cube Krom offers Bluetooth® Hands-free Phone System, leather-wrapped steering wheel, woven black and gray seat cloth, an upgraded audio system with six speakers and Rockford Fosgate subwoofer, Interface System for iPod®, Titanium interior trim accents, sporty aluminum trimmed pedals, Automatic Temperature Control, interior illumination system and more.

Like every cube model, the cube Krom offers unexpected power and ease of driving provided by an advanced 122-horsepower 1.8-liter DOHC inline 4-cylinder with a projected fuel economy of 30 mpg Highway. The cube Krom comes with a standard new-generation Nissan Xtronic CVTÔ (Continuously Variable Transmission) for good acceleration response, smooth operation and fuel efficiency.

“The cube Krom is unmistakable, with its unique exterior treatments and interior enhancements, it takes the already standout cube and raises the “cool” factor even more,” said Al Castignetti, vice president and general manager, Nissan Division, NNA. “For those consumers that love the cube but are looking for a little something extra, the cube Krom offers that and then some.”

The cube Krom was developed by Nissan North America’s Specialty Vehicles Group, which also developed the sporty Nissan NISMO 350Z. Krom models are converted in a unique area of the cube assembly facility.

A “Personalized” Approach to Accessories
Inside and out, the new Nissan cube offers an inspiring canvas for personalization. A centerpiece of the new cube’s appeal is its “social space” interior that offers room for five in a lounge-like comfort. Along with its open occupant space, “floating meter pod” driver’s area and “lounge sofa” style sliding and reclining rear bench seat, the cube interior is available with a long list of innovative accessories.

Among the items designed to accentuate cube’s unique design approach are “shag dash topper” instrument panel inserts, which fit into the top center of the instrument panel; “Front Door Bungees,” which are colorful elastic straps that slip into cutouts on the door armrests to secure items such as maps and photos; and an Interior Illumination Kit, which provides a changeable 20-color palette of accent lighting under the instrument panel and in the center console cupholder.

Other interior accessories include illuminated stainless kick plates, drilled stainless pedal covers, rear cargo area organizer and interior trim appliqués available in four body-matching colors and a sleek, carbon fiber look. Exterior accessories include a front chin spoiler, rear underspoiler, side body sills, rear roof spoiler, 16-inch aluminum-alloy wheels, nose mask, side window deflectors, vehicle cover and fog lights.

For added convenience, a number of accessories have been grouped into special packages – the Interior Designer Package, the Interior Illumination Package and the Ginormous Package, featuring a range of items including the aero body kit, interior accent lighting and interior appliqués.

“Enthusiasm is building for cube – it’s unique, it’s fun, it’s functional, and it makes being “square” hip again,” said Castignetti. “Consumers in the market are excited about a product like this. If you take the cube’s distinctive styling, utility, and efficiency and add a starting MSRP of $13,990, it’s easy to see why.”

About Nissan North America
In North America, Nissan's operations include automotive styling, engineering, consumer and corporate financing, sales and marketing, distribution and manufacturing. Nissan is dedicated to improving the environment under the Nissan Green Program 2010, whose key priorities are reducing CO2 emissions, cutting other emissions and increasing recycling. More information on Nissan in North America and the complete line of Nissan and Infiniti vehicles can be found online at www.NissanUSA.com and www.infiniti.com.
# # #
* MSRP excludes applicable tax, title and license fees.Dealer sets actual price. Prices and specs are subject to change without notice.
**cube® is a registered trademark of Nissan North America.
Contact Info: Beancooker [post_title] => Nissan announces the 2009 Nissan Cube [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => newspro-archive-5-1 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:53:32 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:53:32 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [4] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1259 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-20 17:48:51 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-21 00:48:51 [post_content] => NICOclub at SEMA 2005
Wednesday, November 9, 2005
Posted by: Torry

Another year at SEMA!This year was no different than any previous year.Every time you think you've seen it all, there is crazier and crazier stuff each year.

NICO Spokesmodel Elizabeth Haynie next to a beautiful Z33

Other Nissans were also impressive.G35's seemed to be one of the more popular cars this year.

One of the most impressive cars was the Tein S15 with a very clean RB26DETT and V-mount intercooler.The firewall was pushed back probably 2 feet!

There were also some other very nice cars as well.

Very Nice R34 Skyline

Beautiful Carbon Elise

An Old School Hotrod

Ford GT Spyder.SEXY!

Clickhere for more pictures from SEMA

SEMA Video 1

SEMA Video 2

SEMA Video 3

SEMA Video 4

SEMA Video 5
Contact Info: Torry [post_title] => NICOclub.com covers the 2005 SEMA show [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => newspro-archive-6-1 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:14:04 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:14:04 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [5] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1260 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-20 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-21 02:38:11 [post_content] => NICOclub Reaches Historic Milestone
Monday, November 13, 2006
Posted by: Matt

This morning, Nissan Infiniti Car Owners Club surpassed a significant milestone in its growth and expansion:The registration of our 50,000th member!

While NICOclub has long been the #1 home of 240sx owners, our recent successes with the Murano forum and especially our Nissan Versa forum has vaulted NICOclub ahead of the competition and established our position as the premiere Nissan resource on the web.

Although 50K members is certainly cause for celebration, we’re not satisfied.In fact, rather than popping the champagne, we made a thread about it, and got right back to work designing our newest addition to the NICOclub Network…A hint:It has to do with Grand American Road Racing…

We hope you’ll join us as we reach out to the next 50,000 Nissan enthusiasts - it’s going to be a hell of a fun ride.

Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => NICOclub announces 50,000 registered members! [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => newspro-archive-7-1 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 23:57:04 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 06:57:04 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [6] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1261 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-20 19:41:51 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-21 02:41:51 [post_content] => Nissan Shows Off Performance Vehicles at 2007 SEMA Show
Friday, November 2, 2007
Posted by: Matt

– Altima Coupe, 350Z, Sentra, Titan and Xterra All Featured, Displaying Performance Versatility from Nissan –

LAS VEGAS, Nev. (October 29, 2007) – Nissan’s ninth year at the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA) Show in Las Vegas marks a celebration of Nissan performance vehicles, all leaders in their respective industry segments.The company is proud to present two custom 2008 Altima Coupes, three 350Z sports cars, two Sentra sedans, two Titan trucks, all built by aftermarket vehicle suppliers/customizers, as well as a special Xterra SUV project created by Nissan’s own engineering staff.These ten vehicles will be on display from Tuesday, October 30 through Friday, November 2 at the Nissan SEMA booth (#33945, upper level, South Hall).

“Nissan is thrilled to be at the 2007 SEMA show with a full array of vehicles, from our 350Z sports car to our full-size Titan trucks, which once again proves that Nissan vehicles are the premier foundations for creative expression by their owners,” said Bill Bosley, vice president and general manager, Nissan Division.“What I’m most excited about is how SEMA offers Nissan and its customers a glimpse to the over-the-edge performance potential of the all-new 2008 Altima Coupe, just like our partners did last year with Versa.”

NISMO, the premier supplier of high-performance aftermarket parts and accessories for Nissan vehicles will exhibit a variety of NISMO performance components, accessories and apparel.

Following is a partial list and information of the Nissan vehicles on display at the 2007 SEMA Show:

Fox Marketing Altima Coupe
Built by Turbochargers.com, the Fox Marketing Altima Coupe features a custom style not yet seen in the marketplace and a 450-plus horsepower VQ-series engine.BASF R-M white paint with black accents set off this unique coupe, and a custom-fit Extreme Dimensions front lip spoiler, combined with a 1.8-inch drop courtesy of Performance Springs, give the Fox Marketing Altima Coupe an aggressive stance.Additional style and performance is provided by a Brake Pros AP Racing 13-inch, 4-piston caliper brake system and mesh-style Privat NEV wheels, sized 20x8.5 inches, with a silver painted center and polished lip, wrapped in 245/30R20 Toyo T1R tires.

The Fox Marketing’s Altima Coupe 3.5-liter V6 received a turbo kit built by Artisan Performance Turbo featuring a Turbonetics GTK650 turbo, “Evolution” wastegate, “Raptor” blow-off valve and a large Artisan Performance intercooler, measuring 26x10x3.Additional fuel is provided by an Artisan Performance fuel rail and 650cc injectors, while spent fumes are expelled through a three-inch Artisan Performance turbo-back exhaust.For additional performance and reliability, the Altima Coupe features an Artisan Performance crank pulley and performance oil lines.With all of these underhood additions, extra room was needed, so the battery has been relocated with a special Artisan Performance kit.

Inside, Artisan Performance seat brackets hold Yonaka Racing black leather racing seats with red stitching, providing occupant comfort, while STRI 60mm boost, oil pressure and exhaust gas temperature gauges give the driver all necessary information.A custom Rockford Fosgate audio system finishes off the interior.

STILLEN Altima Coupe
STILLEN has long been in the forefront of Nissan personalization, and the Altima Coupe is their latest target for the 2007 SEMA show.“The Altima Coupe comes well-equipped in both the looks and power department, which is why we chose to focus on subtle, yet effective improvements,” said Mike Ullrich, marketing coordinator, STILLEN.

STILLEN’s modifications to the exterior of the Altima Coupe include a custom window tint, front spoiler, rear deck wing and roof wing.Under the hood, a STILLEN intake provides more power and a high-flow stainless steel exhaust with dual mufflers give the Altima Coupe an authoritative exhaust note.

The suspension received new Eibach springs, dropping the Altima closer to the ground, and wheels are 19x8-inch Privat Zentralles shod with BFGoodrich g-force T/A KDW tires.AP Racing 4-piston calipers with 13-inch drilled and slotted STILLEN rotors bring it all to a halt.

STILLEN upgraded the Altima Coupe’s interior with a full leather interior by Katzkin, while in-car entertainment is provided by a Sony Bluetooth-enabled Head Unit and Rockford Fosgate speakers, amplifiers, wiring and subwoofers.

STILLEN Sentra SE-R Spec V
STILLEN gave the new Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V the full “STILLEN treatment,” and its intentions are immediately announced with its two-tone Solar Yellow and flat black paint scheme set off by a silver design, combined with a dark window tint, STILLEN front lip spoiler and rear roof wing.

Performance is increased by a STILLEN exhaust system and STILLEN front brake upgrade with two-piston calipers and 13-inch drilled and slotted brake rotors.An Eibach Pro Kit spring package and 18x7.5-inch Konig Hot Swap wheels wrapped in BFGoodrich g-force T/A KDWs give the STILLEN SE-R an aggressive stance and style.

Inside, the STILLEN SE-R received a complete in-car entertainment system with a Sony Bluetooth enabled Head Unit and Rockford Fosgate speakers, amplifiers, wiring and subwoofers.

“The STILLEN Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V takes this sport compact hero one step further, focusing on all aspects of the driving experience,” says Ullrich.

714 Motorsports Sentra 2.0 S
714 Motorsports Sentra has undergone an extensive customization process, which includes new paint, interior, sound system and engine enhancements.“Our goal was to create a Sentra that will really stand out in a crowd,” said Manny de Encio of 714 Motorsports.

First, the stock exterior color was changed to Candy Orange with Flat Black graphics, applied by Santini Paint and Body with paint provided by the ALSA Corp.Other enhancements include a STILLEN urethane lip kit, trunk wing and rear window wing, and a custom T-Rex upper and lower billet grille.The Sentra was lowered two inches with an Eibach suspension kit and a STILLEN AP Racing 13-inch Big Brake kit was added to the front end, as were 18-inch MOMO Ten-S wheels with Toyo Proxes 4 tires.

Under the hood is a STILLEN front strut tower brace, a fully-polished ram air intake system by Injen and two 1400 Kinetik Power Cells for the considerable in-car audio system.An Injen 2.5-inch cat-back exhaust system provides additional power and sound.

Extensive work has been done on the interior of the Sentra, first by a change from cloth to leather and suede.MOMO seats have been fitted for the driver and passenger, including a custom MOMO embossed logo print by Roadwire.

Other MOMO interior accessories include a custom steering wheel, three-piece pedal set, gearshift knob, emergency brake and floor mats.All other interior trim has been reworked with a combination of black suede and custom paint, matching the exterior livery.

In-car entertainment is provided by Polk and MOMO, with four amplifiers – three Mono Blocks and one 4-Channel - and three 12-inch subwoofers mounted in the trunk.

GT Channel 350Z Roadster
GT Channel coordinated some of the premier names in the aftermarket to create this Z Roadster.Painted by Sixteen Customs, the Roadster features a Vertex Lang aero kit, made to look more aggressive by a lowered coilover suspension by Mine’s and 19x9-inch front and 19x10-inch Work Wheels shod with BFGoodrich KDW tires, all installed and tuned by Steve Mitchell of M-Workz.

Under the hood, the VQ35 engine received an HKS GT Supercharger (the first kit in the U.S.), HKS fuel management system and Titanium exhaust.The increased power is backed by upgraded components, including NISMO clutch disc, flywheel and locking differential, and stopping power is enhanced by a STILLEN AP Racing brake system.

Finishing touches were then applied to the interior and include Bride carbon fiber reclinable seats and a full Pioneer audio system.

Performance Nissan of Duarte/MyNISMO 35th Anniversary 350Z
Starting with a rare Super Black 35th Anniversary 350Z, Performance Nissan of Duarte, Calif. created the ultimate naturally-aspirated sports car.Exterior modifications include NISSAN Kouki Bi-Xenon headlights, LED taillights and NISMO carbon-fiber pillar trim, while Performance Nissan’s 350Z features two different looks depending on mission – street or track.

For the street, the 350Z features ASUKA Designs carbon fiber hood, roof overlay, mirror covers, A-pillar trim and hatch, as well as a PowerHouse Amuse full aero kit.For the track, INGS accessories are fitted – an N1 Type-E Long Nose aero kit, front carbon canards, Type II Carbon Aero bonnet, a 1480mm Z Power Type II Carbon GT Wing and LX Fenders.

For the maximum in naturally-aspirated performance, Performance Nissan started with a new long block and added a Jim Wolf Technology Popcharger, UR crank pulley, STILLEN engine dampener, and variety of components and accessories from NISMO, Motordyne, MOTUL, SUN Automobile, ARC, JIC and SAMCO.NISMO R-Tune headers and an S-Tune exhaust system, with Crawford high-flow catalytic converters provide relief for the tuned engine, which produces a dynoed 290 horsepower and 273 lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels.

Drivetrain modifications include a Jim Wolf Technology flywheel, NISMO clutch disc, pressure plate, MOTUL fluids and CUSCO type-RS 1.5 limited slip differential.Off-the-line performance was increased with a 4.083 ring and pinion from Nissan.

A KW Suspension Variant 3 system controls ride height, compression and rebound adjustability, while handling is further improved by CUSCO front adjustable camber arms, an ARC Ti. strut tower bar, NISMO S-Tune sway bars and GT Spec front and rear tie bars.VOLK GTF wheels, sized 19x9.5 inches in front and 19x10.5 inches in back with Toyo T1 255/35R19 (front) and 275/35R19 (rear) tires are used for street duty, while INGS TS06 18x9.5-inch and 18x10.5-inch wheels with Bridgestone RE-01R 245/35R18 (front) and 275/30R18 (back) tires are used on the track.Braking is provided by a Project Mu Racing with six-piston front and four-piston rear calipers.

Interior modifications include a Bride Zeta III driver’s seat and Bride Brix II passenger’s seat, SPARCO harness bar, Personal Neo Grinta 330mm steering wheel with Works Bell Rapfix II quick release and a NISMO GT titanium shift knob and floor mats.

In car entertainment was installed by Creative Car Audio and created by Pioneer, including an AVIC-D3 A/V navigation system, TS-C160R 6.5-inch component speakers, TS-D161R 6.5-inch coaxial speakers, two GM-3300T two-channel amplifiers, GM-5300T two-channel amplifier and two TS-SW2541D ten-inch “slim” subwoofers.

Enjuku Racing “Project Z Drift” 350Z Roadster
As a specialist in Nissan performance, EnjukuRacing.com is debuting at Nissan’s SEMA booth one of two Nissan 350Zs they’ll be campaigning in the 2008 Formula Drift and NOPI Drift competitions, a Z Roadster called “Project Z Drift.”This Roadster, with looks and performance inspired by Japanese Super GT cars, will be driven by former open-wheel racer and Pikes Peak hill climb champion Robby Unser.

“This is the second time we’ve campaigned Nissan cars in a drift program, but the first time we’re working with the legendary Z,” said Ken Harrison, Enjuku Team owner, “This is the first time we’re showing our Z Roadster to the public, and soon we’ll have a matching Z Coupe.”

The Enjuku Roadster has received myriad upgrades throughout the vehicle for drifting competition, contributing to a curb weight reduction to 2,852 pounds in race trim.Under the hood, the VQ35’s output has been raised to 450-plus horsepower through the use of a STILLEN Stage 4 supercharger and a Berk Technology exhaust, among other upgrades.

The race-ready look was achieved through the use of SEIBON carbon fiber body panels and a BRS body kit, while the imposing stance has been created with a Battle Version suspension featuring Stance coil-over shocks.Traction and braking comes from a Wilwood brake system and RAYS wheels, shod with large, sticky tires.For additional race-readiness, a PIPER roll cage has been installed.

“The 2007 SEMA show is the perfect place to showcase the Nissan brand as it relates to the sport of drifting and the ability of Enjuku Racing to produce a top notch race car,” said Harrison. “We’re thrilled to be working with Nissan and also thank our sponsors for helping this project come to light.We look forward to campaigning this modified Roadster and our upcoming Z Coupe in 2008!”

Automotive Customizers/www.4x4parts.com Titan King Cab
Returning to the 2007 SEMA show with yet another Titan full-sized pickup, this time a King Cab model (2006 featured a Crew Cab), Automotive Customizers create the “ultimate hunting vehicle,” complete with a full-camouflage exterior treatment.

The exterior of the Titan King Cab has been fitted with a specially modified ARB Winch Mount Bull Bar in front, a special camouflage rear hitch-mounted Freedom Grille, IPF off-road lights, an Off Road Unlimited cargo rack with accessories, a Nissan tool box and overhead rack, Automotive Customizers skid plates, AMP Research side step bars, ATS Design fender flares and a Mile Marker 12,000 Pound electric winch.

The Titan King Cab’s ability to seek out off-the-path hunting trails is enhanced by a Performance Accessories 3-inch body lift, a ProComp Suspension 6-inch suspension lift, Automotive Customizers\' 2.5-inch lift coils, an Eaton True Trac Locker differential and Total Chaos Fabrication lower control arms.Finishing off the suspension are 18x9-inch Dick Cepek wheels and 37-inch Dick Cepek mud tires.

Under the hood, Automotive Customizers installed JBA Performance headers and exhaust system, a Jim Wolf Technology high performance cam set and a Volant intake system.A special TJM snorkel provides fresh air to the engine when treading deep water.

Interior improvements include a Rockford Fosgate stereo system, a Magellan GPS System, Wet Okole seat covers and Nissan first aid kit, floor mats and under-seat storage bin.

Nissan Technical Center North America (NTCNA) “Project X” Xterra
Not to be outdone by outside shops, the engineers at NTCNA tried a customizing exercise of their own, creating the “ultimate” Xterra, combining the best from Nissan’s parts bin and top-tier aftermarket suppliers.Maintaining the inherent style of Xterra was key, with minor exterior additions of CALMINI front and rear off-road bumpers and rocker skids, as well as a custom paint scheme applied by Drew Brothers Customs in Phoenix, Ariz.

The biggest surprise comes under the hood, where the original powerplant has been replaced by a 300-plus horsepower 5.6-liter V8 engine and transmission from the 2008 Nissan Titan.The engine remains stock, other than a custom 2.5-inch mandrel-bent exhaust by Apache Muffler.
Advance Adapters provided a two-speed transfer case, and Tom Wood’s Custom Driveshafts created front and rear driveshafts.

Xterra’s legendary off-road capabilities have been further enhanced by American Axle electronic stabilizer bar disconnects, a GKN electronic locking front differential, a CALMINI 5-inch suspension lift kit, and custom-built Centerline wheels with 33-inch BFGoodrich off-road tires.To add additional visibility for tough-terrain off-road excursions, a VisorView exterior camera system has been added, which features cameras mounted in the front, rear and under the body.

Inside, the Project “X” Xterra features Wet Okole waterproof neoprene seat covers, a Clarion DVD multimedia stereo head unit and Rockford Fosgate amplifiers and speakers.

Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan Displays Performance Vehicles at 2007 SEMA Show [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => newspro-archive-8-1 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:53:13 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:53:13 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [7] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1262 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-20 19:59:19 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-21 02:59:19 [post_content] => D1GP 2005
Friday, December 23, 2005
Posted by: Torry

D1 Grand Prix USA vs Japan All Star Exhibition, Dec 16-17, 2005.

NICOclub is proud to present exclusive photos of D1GP, captured by NICO's very own Justin "Bling" Derendal.

This event had all the necessary ingredients for a spectacular 2006 season opening round: Irwindale Speedway. The best drivers from the US and Japan. 10,000 spectators.

Pride, nationalism and bragging rights were on the line.

There were some tense moments as track communications broke down, resulting in the Megan Racing drift car colliding with one of the Irwindale Speedway support trucks as it was tending to an earlier accident.

Many drivers had troubles adjusting to the clockwise track arrangement. Rhys Millen, the leading points leader of the 2005 series, was the first to crash in practice, and he did not return.Rod Millen had his first shot in D1 and qualified in the Top 16 along with US D1 favorites, Alex Pfeiffer, Samuel Hubinette, and Tanner Foust.

The main event was a memorable one in drifting history. Vaughn Gittin Jr. took first place in his Falken-sponsored Ford Mustang over the Japanese drivers. No simple task - In order to win, he had to defeat Yasuyuki Kazama, the 2005 series champion as well as Youichi Imamura the 2003 series champion.

Enjoy the pictures!
Contact Info: Torry [post_title] => NICOclub covers D1GP at Irwindale [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => newspro-archive-9-1 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-08-26 23:34:43 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-08-27 06:34:43 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [8] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1263 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-20 22:46:57 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-21 05:46:57 [post_content] => 2005 All-Nissan Nationals
Monday, March 21, 2005
Posted by: Torry

TV COVERAGE BROADCAST: June 29th, 2005 on Speed TV at 8:00pm EST

I don't even know where to begin. This past weekend was the biggest success of a meet that NICO has ever been a part of.

Friday we began the day by heading down to Firebird International Raceway to set up. We arrived shortly after the NOPI trailer had pulled in.Following us in was a line of semi's sparkling with chrome and custom paintjobs. Summit Racing, Lucas Oil, Streetglow, and Ford were just a few of the many teams to show up. As we walked around the pits and stared at cars that have more power than dealership parking lots, we knew that this was the beginning of a very exciting weekend.

After we were set up at the track, we headed to TGIFriday's for some dinner where we also met up with many of our members. It was a great chance to meet some new faces, grab some food after a long day, and of course, knock back a few Coronas (ok, maybe a lot). After dinner we went indoor go-carting, F1 style. It helped to prepare the mood for the upcoming events of the weekend.

Saturday morning began bright an early at 6am. As Brian, Rob, and I packed the coolers with beer, Fred was taking a shower. Greg and Ryan meanwhile, had already left for the track in Greg's convertible 240SX. As soon as Fred was out of the shower, the rest of us headed down to the track in Greg's Q45.

When we got to the track, we began setting up quickly. Gates opened at 8am, and soon we would see just what kind of turnout we were going to have. Cars began rolling in early. At about 9am, Brian and I opened our first beers to celebrate the success of the meet so far. There were many exciting Nissans and Infinitis there already. Darrin Forte's G35, a 240Z GT2 SCCA car, and an old-school Z car with a full Ferrari body kit were among some of the favorites. The Ferrari-Z car was beautifully done, and to the unsuspecting eye, would pass as a Ferrari any day. Early in the afternoon, the Pro-Qualifying rounds started. Seeing a V-6 Cavalier runa [email protected] mph in the 1/4 mile helped get the day going. If you've never seen a car run that fast, it is truly unbelievable. That car makes an 8 second car look like a Yugo with pizza cutter tires. To give you an idea of the amount of fuel these cars run, we saw one car that running 3 1600cc injectors per runner. Another had 2 1900cc injectors per runner. Imagine a pressure washer pushing fuel into the cylinders.

After seeing some extremely fast runs on the strip, we didn't think the weekend could have gotten any better. But when we headed back to the NICO tent, we were pleased to find SPEED TV's camera crew setting up to interview Greg and do a photo shoot with his 240SX. Immediately following Greg's interview, they proceeded to interview Darrin and do a photo shoot of his G35. The show is tentatively scheduled to be aired sometime in June. When the interviews were finished, we headed back to watch more racing. Summit was able to back up their first run by running another 6 second run at over 200 mph. A couple other cars managed to break the 200 mph mark as well. There were also a couple FWD cars that ran 7's, which needless to say, is nothing less than impressive. Rain starting to roll in later Saturday night. As with any drag racing event, especially an NDRA event, safety comes first and the track was finished for the night. Luckily it would be clear skies the next day.

Sunday came around bright and early, at 5:30am. We were out shortly after 6 and headed back to the track. We were almost not looking forward to Sunday because it would not be possible to have more fun that we did on Saturday, which would be a disappointment. However, much to our surprise, Sunday proved to be an even better day. Except for the fact that my face nearly caught on fire because of sunburn, Sunday was perhaps the best day of my life. Like Saturday, we were at the track before anyone. This time by 7am. Just as they had done the day before, cars began coming in at 8am, about the same time that Brian and I cracked open our first beers for the day. As they entered the NICO parking area, we handed out ballots for the awards we would give out later that day. It was nice to see some cars come back that had not planned on returning, as well as some new cars that were not there the day before. Once again, cars filled the NICO parking area. Pro-Qualifying began early on Sunday due to the fact that rain shut down the track the night before. Some of the slower cars qualified next (you know, the ones that were only in the 10's and 11's), Pro-Eliminations followed. In between the races, we made our way back to the NICO booth to do some photo shoots. NOPI was kind enough to let us "borrow" their models. We took lots of pictures. Some of the pictures you may even be able to see a car behind them. What more couldyou ask for? We had it covered! A large group of Nissans, cars with 1000's of horsepower driving down the track behind us, and the most beautiful girls there wearing skimpy outfits!

When the photos were finally done, we had drawn a huge crowd because of the models. It was a perfect time for everyone to begin their voting and turning in their ballots for the NICO awards we presented. We had 5 awards to present. The first award, for Best Nissan, went to Howard Kornblue for his 240Z. On the opposite end of the time era, Darrin Forte took the award for the Best Infiniti in his G35. Best 240SX went to Greg Childs, and Farthest Drive went to Ainsley Hyman, who had driven from New York City. The final award we presented was the Paul Souder Spirit & Enthusiasm Award. For those of you who do not know, Paul Souder was one of our moderators, and one of the initial members of NICO.He unfortunately passed away on 2/14/05. He had helped shape NICO into what it is today. Paul was the kind of guy that would go out of his way to help anyone. He never had an excuse for not helping, he simply showed up and helped out, just for his pleasure. We can only dream of having a world with more people like Paul. We decided to start an annual tradition of acknowledging members who have the same passion and ambition as Paul did, and we were honored to present this award to Dan Vogelsburg.

The weekend was long, but that is a good thing. I slept the entire way back on the airplane and dreamt of the great times we all had this weekend. It was an event that I'm glad I didn't miss. It was an event that will definitely live on, year after year. Thank all of you who made it out there. It is you guys that make NICO happen.

Your NICO Staff

We'd Like to give a special thanks to our sponsors who helped us make this show happen.Thanks to Sport Compact Only, Custom Enterprise, Arizona Z-Car, Revolution Autowerks, Bolt-in Bars, and Reaction Research.

Click here for more pictures (Gallery 1)
More Pictures (Gallery 2)
Interview with Greg
Interview with Darrin

Contact Info: Torry [post_title] => All-Nissan Nationals 2005 in Phoenix, Arizona [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-nationals-2005 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:52:47 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:52:47 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [9] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1264 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => D1GP 2006 Kick-off Thursday, March 30, 2006 Posted by: Torry Round 1, 2005 champ Kazama kicks the season off with a big win at Irwindale, and as always, NICO was there covering the action. Special thanks to our very own Justin "Bling" Derendal of http://www.JDActionPhoto.com for clicking some KILLER pics!!! D1 kicked its 2006 series off here in California with Round One. 15,000 fans gathered from across the United States to witness the finest level of drifting. 2005 Champion Yasuyuki Kazama took first place in this event to start the season off right. Kazama has been a consistent Irwindale winner since 2004 when he tasted his first victory here in the states. Following the season opener in 2005 he again battled his way to the top and took first again. In December 2005, D1 held its annual USA vs. JAPAN exhibition event at Irwindale, where for the first time Kazama was knocked out of the brackets in the first round by JR Gittin, an American driver. Later that night, Gittin proved to be the winner and made history as the first American to win a D1 event. A win well deserved. With disheartening memories fresh from a couple months ago, Kazama made his way to Irwindale to redeem himself and to prove that he is still on top. Defeating fan favorites like Ken Nomura, and the infamous Team Orange (Kazuhiro Tanaka and Nobushige Kumakubo) he worked his way to the top and claimed his victory making this win a threepeat. American driver Samuel Hubinette ran beautifully in practice and in competition with top entry speeds and earning top points in qualifying. Hubinette piloting the Dodge Viper SRT-10 was penalized in the semifinals as he false started in his first run in his match against Kumakubo. With his last chance to recover his momentum, Hubinette spins on the final corner forfeiting his chance for the finals. For more pictures, check out the following photo album! D1GP PhotosContact Info: Torry [post_title] => Yasuyuki Kazama Wins Round 1 of the D1GP 2006 Series [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => newspro-archive-2 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:56:21 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:56:21 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [10] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1265 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Team Enjuku Report Wednesday, April 27, 2005 Posted by: Nick Pics: George "GEO" TV COVERAGE BROADCAST: May 8th, 2005 on G4TV at 10:00pm EST To all sponsors of ER Motorsports / Team Enjuku, Let me begin this email first by thanking each one of your for making this whole thing possible. You, our sponsors, have enabled us to move forward with drifting and represent your companies to the fullest while giving our team the highest quality in parts and equipment, so that we look the part of the professional race team. The weekend was awesome, and Team Enjuku truly raised the bar on the level of professionalism for pro-drifting. Team Enjuku was the only privateer team to show up in a 60 foot Renegade car hauler setup, and the only privateer team to be in full uniform. Our mobile shop and twin car team was the envy of many competitors, as they asked us numerous times who we were, where we came from, and where we were from, etc. I think we definitely got some of the competitors thinking and wondering about us, possibly even a bit intimidated. As the event began to shift on to the weight of the drivers for Team Enjuku, minor problems on Matt's car prevented him from practicing the course before qualifying. The problem ended up being a t-bolt charge pipe clamp to the intercooler that had snapped in half. Team Enjuku quickly resolved the situation with a new t-bolt clamp; however Matt was now down on practice time that was much needed on this very difficult course. Rob, who had full qualifying time, did perfectly on the course, and improved on each run on his way towards qualifying. The track proved to be very difficult, as many pro drivers hit the wall in practice sessions, damaging and totaling many cars. Highlights include a Lexus who cracked his oil pan on the 30 degree bank to flat infield, delaying practice for 30 minutes, a few cars hitting the front left corner of their cars on the wall, destroying control arms and bodywork, and a couple more drivers who destroyed their wheels hitting the transition at the wrong angle. To say this course was very unforgiving is being conservative. Moving forwards towards qualifying it was apparent that less practice time for myself would not help me advance, as I struggled to complete the course with as much finesse as my teammate, Rob. Rob ended up qualifying 6th out of 25, I qualified 14th. Only the top 12 would advance to Saturday's main event. Although both cars did not get to make the main event, Team Enjuku was still very happy with our results. No broken cars, no damaged components, and we were still in the show. We can only get better from here, and we prepared for Saturday's competition. Saturday's event brought even more people to Wall Stadium, and more people to look at Team Enjuku's setup. We answered many questions, signed many autographs, met with many people and talked to many companies that were very impressed with what we brought to the table. Practice and qualifying put television cameras on Rob's car, as G4TV will be televising all of the Formula D events with "Formula D TV". Rob's main goal was to get the crowd crazy, and he did so with great success. The first driver to get standing ovations and cheers from the crowd, it seemed everyone was happy with Rob's performance, even though he lost a front bumper and spun out while trying to avoid it on the final turn. Although we did not make the top 16 for the first round, it was still an awesome event, and a success in the eyes of ER Motorsports. We can only get better from here, and our overall teamwork and preparedness is already at a level higher than most of our competitors. We are easily the most professional of the privateer teams, and hope to have the entire world of drifting amazed at the secrets we're about to unleash come the May 07 Road Atlanta event. Again, we thank you for being with us for the 2005 season, and hope that you will be able to make it to at least one of the Formula D events so you can see our team and presence in action. ER MotorsportsATTN Matt 6100 Hanging Moss Rd Suite 570 Orlando, FL32807 Thank you again, and we hope to hear back from you regarding anything you want from us in 05. Contact Info: Nick [post_title] => Team Enjuku at Formula D [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => enjuku-report [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:56:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:56:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [11] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1266 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => 2006 HSR Mitty
Sunday, April 30, 2006
Posted by: Torry

Every year, the HSR Mitty is held at Road Atlanta.And every year, Nissans are strongly represented. This year was no exception, having the largest turnout ever for Nissans.

For three days, classic and vintage cars from all countries come throughout the U.S. to attend this show and race. Vintage racecars, from Nascar to F1, come out and compete against other cars of their era. Some cars are very famous, and are an excitement to see.

Not only were there all kinds of vintage racecars, but there were also some extremely rare show cars as well. There are three known '65 Silvias in the United States. One of them is owned by NICO's founder, Dr. Rex Birkmire. Rex brought his car to the show, and was in awe to find another '65 Silvia at the show! Two-thirds of the U.S.'s '65 Silvias together!

Perhaps not as rare as a '65 Silvia, but still rare is the 2-door 810.Beautifully restored, this is what one of these rare cars looked like as it rolled out of the showroom back in '79.

In addition, besides the rare cars that were there, there were some genuinely rare engine swaps as well.How about an LS1 in 280Z?Or an LD28 in a 280ZX?Well, both were there!That's right a Diesel powered 280ZX!With an insane amount of torque, and 40 mpg, who can argue?

Hanging around the owners of these vehicles was an absolute blast.Just listening in on conversations throughout the day will enlighten you into a whole new world you never existed regarding Datsuns. I encourage everyone who has a remote interest in the history of Nissans, or in automobiles in general, to attend this event.You will NOT be disappointed!

To see the rest of the pictures from the weekend, click below:

HSR Mitty 2006 Pictures
Contact Info: Torry [post_title] => NICOclub covers HSR Mitty at Road Atlanta [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => hsr-mitty-road-atlanta [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:56:50 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:56:50 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [12] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1267 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_content] => Round 2 Formula D at Road Atlanta
Sunday, May 8, 2005
Posted by: Torry

TV COVERAGE BROADCAST: June 12th, 2005 on G4TV at 10:00pm EST

Wow, what a great weekend! Enjuku Racing once again represented NICO at the Formula Drift event at Road Atlanta. Rob Fleming (Garage Battle) had pre-qualified from round 1 by making the top 20.However, Matt Vassallo (mattback) qualified Friday night to run again on Saturday in the top 32.

After the top 32 qualifying rounds Friday night, they had an open practice for the pre-seated top 20.It was a nice change from last year, because this year the competition was held at night.Seeing cars drift with headlights through their dust clouds was much nicer than under the hot blistering sun.

Enjuku really got their name noticed on Friday night as well, as they introduced the first color-smoking tires ever seen at a drift event.Both Rob and Matt were running these new Kumho tires, that when smoked, emit a bright red dust cloud.It was easy to distinguish the Enjuku cars from the other simply by the tire smoke as they came around the course.

Enjuku Racing at Road Atlanta for Formula Drift 2005

Saturday began in the mid afternoon with qualifying for the sweet 16.At this point, cars ran one practice run, then two judged laps. All 32 cars ran one at a time.When the qualifying was over, there was an hour break, as well as a drivers meeting to find out who made the sweet 16.Even though Matt had an excellent run in qualifying, he unfortunately placed 17th—one place away from making the sweet 16.He also broke a control arm in the first turn of his final run, which only allowed him to have one good qualifying run.You can do it next time Matt! 17th is still awesome considering there were nearly 40 cars in competition. Rob however, qualified 16th. So for the first time this season, Enjuku got a car into the sweet 16, which has a ton more publicity, as it is the first final qualifier, and also the point where cars begin tandem competition.

In the sweet 16, each driver was announced one at a time, and then drove one exhibition lap to "say hi" to the crowd.Whether it was smoking the crowd out in a heavy tire cloud, or stopping and throwing t-shirts into the crowd, each driver had their own unique way of showing off.Rob chose to simply cover the crowd in a bright red dust cloud as he drifted through the course.

Competition was on.Each pair of drivers (8 total) ran two runs each.Each got their turn to follow once, and lead once.During Rob's first sweet 16 run, he was paired up against the #1 qualifier going into the sweet 16, Calvin Wan, in a twin turbo G35.Rob lead the first run, but unfortunately went into turn one too hot and spun.Calvin drifted past and had the lead going into the 2nd run.On the 2nd run, Rob pushed Calvin hard, and ran a near flawless run.However, Calvin never spun, so Rob did not get to move on.

Enjuku Racing at Road Atlanta for Formula Drift 2005

Competition went on with the great 8, then down to the final 4. Calvin Wan, in his G35, ran Daijiro Yoshihara in a Nissan S13 Silvia and spun, which gave Daijiro the 3rd place finish. The final competition of the night came down to Sam Hubinette in a Dodge Viper vs. Rhys Millen in a Pontiac GTO, where Sam took 1st and Rhys finished 2nd.

Overall it was a great accomplishment for Team Enjuku.NICO would like to thank Kumho tires for their support with the Enjuku team, and the new Kumho ECSTA MX-C tires.We would also like to congratulate the entire Enjuku team, and give a special thanks to Rob and Matt who are the ones who actually push the car sideways around the track.Without them, the team wouldn't exist.Thanks again guys!And I hope to see you in Houston for round 3.Maybe we can get both cars into the sweet 16, or even the great 8.I know you guys can do it! - Torry
Contact Info: Torry [post_title] => Enjuku Racing at Road Atlanta Formula Drift 2005 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => formula-drift-2005 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:31:53 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:31:53 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [13] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1268 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => 2006 NICO at Stillen Meet
Sunday, May 14, 2006
Posted by: Torry

On 5/13/06, Stillen held their 4th annual Nissan/Infiniti day, but this time NICO was there. With the largest attendance to date for the Stillen show, cars lined the road in front of the shop in both directions, filling the blocked off street with nothing but Nissans.

In addition to the cars lining the street, there was also a large line for the dyno.Some impressive numbers were put down, including a G35 with over 600 HP, an S13 with a stock RB20DET that put down 216 HP, and an '89 Maxima with nearly 400 HP!

There were some other cars that really stood out although they never hit the dyno.A KA24DET powered 510 and a highly modified R33 Skyline GT-R are two that come to mind.

Overall, there was an excellent turn out with some truly unique cars there.Free food, raffle prizes, and facility tours kept people busy when they were not looking at cars.Short seminars were held throughout the day as well on topics such as supercharging, suspension, and brakes.

The day seemed to go by much quicker than expected, and before we knew it, the crowd was dissipating.It was a short day, but one that will never be forgotten.Talking with Steve Millen himself is awe-inspiring.We ended the day taking a photo with the all-time winingest driver in IMSA GT history, next to what is perhaps the most famous Nissan racecar ever built.

Although this was the first year that NICO has attended this event, it is something we plan on doing again next year.We look forward to having more NICO members attend next year for another event that will truly be memorable! A special thanks goes out to Steve Millen, John Zinn, Jeff, and Margaret Lo for their hospitality while we were there.You guys (and gal) are the best! Click below to see more photos from the Stillen/NICO meet.

EZcheese15's Stillen Photos
AZhitman's Stillen Photos
Contact Info: Torry [post_title] => NICOclub at Stillen Meet 2006 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => stillen-2006 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:57:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:57:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [14] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1269 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Nissan Takes Multiple Podiums in Two Off-Road Racing Series [May 22, 07]
Friday, May 25, 2007
Posted by: Matt

– Cross-Country Success for Nissan Motorsports with a Win, Second and Third Place in CORR Pro-2; Third Place in WSORR PRO Light Pickup Competition –

NASHVILLE, Tenn. (May 22, 2007) – Nissan Motorsports-supported race trucks took multiple podiums across the country this past weekend – a win, second and third place for Carl Renezeder in his Nissan Titan-bodied Pro-2 race truck in Championship Off Road Racing (CORR) competition at the Los Angeles County Fairplex in Pomona, Calif.; and a third place finish for Chad Hord in his PRO Light Pickup Nissan Frontier-bodied race truck in the inaugural Lucas Oil World Series of Off-Road Racing (WSORR) Owatonna Off-Road Nationals competition at the Steele County Fairgrounds in Owatonna, Minn.

“This weekend’s competitions displayed again to the off-road racing community, and the world, that Nissan race trucks are a force to be reckoned with no matter which track, what series or which class they’re running in,” said Nissan Motorsports Marketing and Operations Senior Manager Ron Stukenberg.“We salute both of our star drivers, Carl Renezeder and Chad Hord, and their teams for their efforts during these two very different events.”

Race Reports

CORR
The second 2007 event for CORR - Rounds 3 and 4 - marked the first time the series has visited the Los Angeles County Fairplex.Carl Renezeder, in his Pro-2 class 715-horsepower Nissan Titan-bodied race truck, was a strong competitor throughout the event.

Saturday’s Round 3 action started with a big wreck, which required repair to the track itself.Once action was underway again, Renezeder battled for position, taking second place on lap 10 and holding it through the end of the event.

Sunday was a busy day for Renezeder and his Titan, with two races – Round 4, which counts towards year-end championship points, and the “Jason Baldwin Memorial Cup” race, a non-points, money-only event.For Round 4, Renezeder took the lead until the mandatory half-way caution period.After the green flag flew again, Renezeder diced it up with other trucks and finished in third place.The “Baldwin Cup” race requires a qualifying procedure, which unfortunately meant Renezeder was to start last.However, once the race started, Renezeder carved up the field and won the race.

The CORR race will be broadcast on NBC on Sunday, May 27th at 2:00 p.m. EST.(check local listings)

WSORR
Rounds 1 and 2 of the inaugural WSORR season started off with much excitement at the one-mile track at Steele County Fairgrounds in Owatonna, Minn.Chad Hord debuted his all-new 310-horsepower Nissan Frontier-bodied race truck for Hord in the PRO Light Pickup division.

Saturday was a tough way to start the season for Hord.In the first-ever race for the truck and the series, Hord jumped out to a substantial lead until a racing wheel broke – which led to an off-jump, end-over-end accident, totaling the new vehicle.

With his new truck destroyed, Hord brought out his backup vehicle for Sunday’s Round 2 event, the 2006 championship-winning Frontier-bodied race truck.Despite having to start at the back of the field due to the Round 1 crash, Hord sliced through traffic and battled mightily for second place, but lost it at the finish line by a truck-length, ending up third.

The Lucas Oil World Series of Off Road Racing (WSORR) and Nissan
WSORR is the newest short course off-road racing sanctioning body in the United States.Based in the Midwest, WSORR features a high-speed, high-impact off-road racing experience for racers and fans at key tracks in Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri and Wisconsin.All races will be shown on the SPEED Channel during prime time viewing hours.

Nissan is the Official Vehicle of WSORR, with Nissan trucks serving as official WSORR pace vehicles as well as extensive vehicle displays and special events during WSORR weekends.Nissan Motorsports is concentrating their off-road racing efforts on this challenging series, not only as the Official Vehicle of the series, but also offering contingency awards to Nissan race truck drivers.

About Nissan Motorsports
Nissan has a long heritage of Motorsports success, both off-road and on the track.Nissan’s Contingency Awards Program offers more than $200,000 in available awards to qualifying Nissan drivers in 2007, including those competing in Lucas Oil World Series of Off-Road Racing (WSORR), Championship Off-Road Racing (CORR), Sports Car Club of America (SCCA), Grand Am KONI Challenge Series, Grand Am Rolex Sports Car Series, NOPI Drag Racing Association (NDRA) and the Formula Drift Championship.

Nissan Motorsports offers a comprehensive 110-page parts catalog, available through Nissan Motorsports at [email protected] or 888/833-3225.
# # #

Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan Off-Road Racing Series Results 2007 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-offroad-racing-2007 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:57:41 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:57:41 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [15] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1270 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => NICO at SCO Nights!
Tuesday, June 28, 2005
Posted by: Greg

NICO sponsor 'Sport Compact Only' kicked off the first week of summer in Phoenix, AZ with the hottest event of the season by far... The SCO Drift, Drag, and Show presented by Muscle Machines at Firebird International Raceway.

They brought together the three most popular tuner events PLUS much, much more! This was definitely a successful event, and once again, SCO did not disappoint.

NICO was there to represent Nissan enthusiasts and to have a great time - Enjoy the pictures, courtesy of Mike (fRiScO) of FriscoMix Productions.

NICO's Project 'Vert representing at the entrance -

Yours truly, making sacrifices and putting in the hard work….

Bondurant drivers putting on an impressive drift exhibition:

Some Nissan representation:

Big Dan (240sx2nr95) reppin' the 240sx crowd…

Contact Info: Greg [post_title] => NICOclub at Firebird International Raceway [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nicoclub-meet-phoenix [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:58:00 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:58:00 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [16] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1271 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => One Hot Minivan - Presage on Sale in Japan
Wednesday, June 7, 2006
Posted by: AZhitman

Nissan's latest take on a home market minivan, the Presage, has just gone on sale. Current owners venturing out to Japanese dealers to have a peek at the new model will likely immediately notice the revamped, Murano/Infiniti M-like face, which sees a familiar horizontally-straked chrome grill arc around to connect the more aggressive headlamps. The lower fascia (particularly the model seen here with auxiliary driving lamps), is similarly unusually outspoken for a minivan.

[post_title] => Nissan Presage arrives at dealers [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-presage [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:58:16 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:58:16 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [17] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1272 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_content] => Nissan Announces Pricing on 2007 NISMO 350Z [June 13, 07]
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Posted by: Matt

NASHVILLE (June 13, 2007) – Nissan North America, Inc. today announced pricing on the dramatic new 2007 Nissan NISMO 350Z, which goes on sale in July at Nissan dealers nationwide.The NISMO 350Z, which features an extensively developed list of unique equipment – including a special aerodynamics package and improved handling equipment, is the fifth model in the 2007 350Z Coupe lineup.It is available with a 6-speed manual transmission only and is offered at a Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) of $38,070. Customers are able to pre-order 2007 NISMO 350Zs at Nissan dealers beginning today.

“This is the first time in the Nissan Z’s 37-year history that a NISMO-branded model is part of the extensive Z lineup,” said Bill Bosley, vice president and general manager, Nissan Division.“NISMO is known around the world as the premier supplier of high-performance and racing parts and accessories for Nissan vehicles.The NISMO 350Z is geared towards enthusiasts who want the ultimate 350Z straight from the factory performance experts.”

The most striking visual feature of the new NISMO 350Z is the NISMO aerodynamics package, which strongly resembles the Super GT championship winning Zs.Featuring a functional front fascia with chin spoiler, side skirts, an extended rear fascia with underbody diffuser and a rear wing, the package produces additional aerodynamic downforce to provide enhanced cornering and handling performance.The NISMO 350Z is offered in four exterior colors – Redline Red, Magnetic Black, Silver Alloy and Pikes Peak White.

Additional performance features include a specially tuned independent multi-link suspension, Brembo brakes with four-piston front and two-piston rear calipers (with 12.8-inch front and 12.7-inch rear rotors) and special NISMO-branded gunmetal gray RAYS super-lightweight forged-alloy wheels (18x9-inch front and 19x10-inch rear with 245/40WR18 front, 265/35WR19 rear Bridgestone Potenza RE050A tires).

The NISMO 350Z also offers enhanced structural rigidity through additional body welds and reinforcements, additional front structural bracing, special body dampers mounted in the front radiator core support and in the rear cargo area.

Inside, NISMO 350Z drivers receive special treatment with unique black cloth seats with red inserts, red stitching on the steering wheel and door panels and a special NISMO gray-faced tachometer.All NISMO 350Zs receive a NISMO-etched aluminum serialized plaque mounted on the center console, designating its limited edition status.

The NISMO 350Z includes a full complement of 350Z standard features, including the new VQ35HR 3.5-liter V6 engine producing 306 horsepower at 6,800 RPM and 268 lb-ft of torque at 4,800 RPM – with 240 lb-ft torque available between 2,000 and 6,400 RPM.Engine features include variable exhaust cam timing (eCVTCS), a 7,500 rpm rev limit and a symmetric twin ram air intake system.A special NISMO-branded tuned exhaust adds an authoritative tone to the NISMO 350Z’s 306-horsepower V6 engine.

The standard 6-speed manual transmission features close-ratio gearing from 1st through 5th gears for high-performance driving and an overdrive 6th speed for highway fuel economy.For enhanced handling, standard on the NISMO 350Z is a Traction Control System (TCS) and Viscous Limited-Slip Differential (VLSD).

Also standard is an electronically-controlled vehicle speed-sensitive dual-orifice rack-and-pinion power steering system, front and rear strut tower bracing, and 4-wheel disc Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) with Electronic Brake force Distribution (EBD) and Brake Assist (BA).

Additional standard equipment includes HomeLink Universal Transceiver, cruise control, aluminum pedals, illuminated steering wheel audio controls and auto-dimming rearview mirror, power windows, 3-bay gauge cluster, High Intensity Discharge (HID) bi-xenon (high and low beam) headlights, LED taillights, Advanced Air Bag System, side and curtain side-impact supplemental air bags and Active Head Restraints.

“The NISMO 350Z is designed for enthusiasts who want a Z that makes a statement and is a testament to their love of driving,” said Bosley. “It has the appearance that stands out from the crowd and the performance to back it up.”

In addition to the new NISMO 350Z, the 2007 350Z Coupe is offered in Base, Enthusiast, Touring and Grand Touring models.The 2007 350Z Roadster is offered in three models – Enthusiast, Touring and Grand Touring.

# # #
Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan Announces Pricing on 2007 NISMO 350Z [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2007-nismo-350z [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:44:19 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:44:19 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [18] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1273 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_content] => Nissan’s “Denki Cube” Electric Vehicle Concept Brings Distinctive Spirit Into Play in New York Auto Show Debut
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Posted by: Matt

03.19.2008, Nashville, Tenn.
Nissan’s “Denki Cube” Electric Vehicle Concept Brings Distinctive Spirit Into Play in New York Auto Show Debut
New York City is about to get a lesson in what happens when geography meets geometry – specifically, when the world, which is round, meets the Nissan Cube, which is essentially square.The occasion is the world debut of the Nissan Denki (Japanese for “electric”) Cube Concept at the 2008 New York International Auto Show.

The lithium-ion battery-powered Denki Cube electric vehicle concept, which will be on public display at the Nissan exhibit at Jacob Javits Convention Center from March 21 through March 30, was created to draw attention to Nissan Motor Co., Ltd.’s (NML) global environmental efforts.It also serves as a preview of Nissan’s future small car strategy for the North American market, which includes plans to sell a redesigned gasoline-powered, next-generation Cube at Nissan dealers in the United States and Canada beginning in 2009.

“The Denki Cube Concept is a fun way to expose American buyers to one of Nissan’s most popular home market cars at a time when fuel economy and packaging efficiency are on a lot of people’s minds,” said Al Castignetti, senior vice president, sales and marketing, Nissan North America, Inc. “Like the production Cube on which it is based, the Denki Cube Concept is boxy yet charming, fashionable and functional, and completely tuned in to today’s needs for enjoyable efficiency.”

About the Denki Cube Concept
In creating the Denki Cube Concept, the designers started with a well-defined canvas, the current-generation Nissan Cube. The iconic Cube has always been the antithesis of traditional automotive style – square, minimalist, asymmetrical and humble – yet also warm, relaxing, practical and undeniably charming. To this solid foundation, the Denki Cube adds a new EV powertrain and unique exterior and interior treatments.

The Denki Cube Concept’s exterior features fresh front and rear styling treatments, including a new “electric themed” front grille design with an AC power charging port, a radical “lightning” headlight design and new bumpers and turn signal lamps.In the rear, the signature Cube asymmetrical rear quarter area (with wraparound glass on one side) has been enhanced by a new bumper with hidden taillights.The roof sheet metal has been replaced with a full fixed glass panel that enhances the interior’s sense of wide-open space.The Denki Cube Concept exterior also features new door mirrors and unique 16-inch wheel covers.The finishing touch is provided by a special white pearl paint and graphics.

Inside, the Denki Cube Concept reflects the designers’ intention of creating a relaxing, moving social hub, like a favorite room in an owner’s house.Though the production Cube offers three rows of seating, the Denki Cube Concept offers only two rows and the wheelbase has been stretched 9.4 inches in order to better accommodate the lithium-ion battery cells.The newly designed front and second row seats are joined by a revised instrument panel with an IP-mounted shift button, a special steering wheel design and new door panel and cargo area trim.

The biggest transformation from production Cube to Denki Cube Concept is one that isn’t visible – the replacement of the standard 1.3-liter inline 4-cylinder gasoline engine with an electric motor and laminated lithium-ion batteries located under the floor and seats.The laminated structure and unique material technology offer more power, energy and battery stability, as well as compact size and packaging flexibility, versus conventional cylindrical batteries.

Nissan’s compact lithium-ion battery technology, one of the company’s traditional strengths, provides batteries with twice as much energy compared with a conventional cylindrical battery of the same type and safer operation due to the use of chemically stable spine-structured manganese for the electrode material.In order to better leverage Nissan’s lithium-ion battery capabilities, a new company, Automotive Energy Supply Corp. (AESC), was jointly established with NEC Corp. and NEC Tokin Corp. – with the goal of dramatically enhancing future battery performance and reducing battery costs.

“Nissan first had an electric vehicle in the road in 1947 and has been field-testing lithium-ion batteries for more than ten years,” said Castignetti.“Our ongoing goal is to dramatically enhance future battery performance while reducing battery costs.”

About Nissan Green Program 2010
Nissan Motor Co., Ltd.’s (NML) mid-term environmental action plan, Nissan Green Program 2010 (NGP 2010), is designed to fulfill Nissan’s environmental philosophy of “symbiosis of people, vehicles and nature” and contribute to a sustainable mobile society.NGP 2010 is specifically focused on reducing CO2 emissions both from Nissan products as well as from day-to-day corporate activities.

Nissan is focused on three core areas related to the environment: reducing CO2 emissions; reducing exhaust emissions; and accelerating recycling efforts.

Highlights of Nissan Green Program 2010 include:

Incorporating CO2 reduction as one of the key management performance indicators.
Launch a “three-liter car” with a target of 2010; a gasoline-fueled car that runs 100 kilometers on three liters of fuel.
Expand availability of Flexible Fuel Vehicles (FFV) within the next three years.
Launch a Nissan electric vehicle early in the next decade.
Develop an original Nissan hybrid vehicle targeted for launch in FY2010.
Accelerate development of plug-in hybrid technology.
By 2010, reduce CO2 emissions from global manufacturing plants by 7%(per unit) compared to 2005.

“The Nissan Green Program 2010 provides a transparent view of Nissan’s future commitments to all aspects of environmental management,” said Toshiyuki Shiga, Chief Operating Officer, NML.“Nissan Green Program 2010 has been designed to address immediate challenges as well as creating the foundation towards a long-term sustainable business model.”

Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan “Denki Cube” Electric Vehicle Concept [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-electric-concept [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:45:07 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:45:07 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [19] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1274 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Vos and Pitchford win Sun City 400 and extend championship lead Wednesday, July 29, 2009 Posted by: Matt North West Province, July 25 - Reigning champion Duncan Vos and co-driver Ralph Pitchford won the Sun City 400 in North West Province on Saturday when they brought their class SP Nissan Navara home. It was the pair's fourth victory in the first five rounds of this year's South Africa Off Road Championship (SAOC) and extends their championship lead to 60 points over South Africa Nissan team-mates Ivar Erik Tollefsen and Quin Evans with three rounds remaining. The win also extends Nissan's winning streak to 11 since the Eastern Cape 400 in April last year. Nissan scored a clean sweep of the three production vehicle classes, with privateers Coetzee Labuscagne and Johan Gerber taking the class D honors in their Nissan Hardbody and Leeroy Poulter and Rob Howie earning an impressive debut class E win in their South Africa Nissan Motorsport-prepared Nissan Hardbody. Vos and Pitchford showed their class once again with another come from behind performance. They started Saturday's race in seventh place among the production vehicles after a disappointing prologue, but reached the halfway compulsory service stop in the lead. "We struggled in the dust in the early stages and were slowed with a puncture," said Vos. "But we pushed hard and took advantage of the fact that many of our rivals ran into problems. Apart from another puncture early in the second loop, we had a clean run throughout the rest of the race."Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Vos and Pitchford win Sun City 400 in class SP Nissan Navara [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-navara [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:58:46 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:58:46 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [20] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1275 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => 2005 Nissans Over Atlanta Tuesday, August 23, 2005 Posted by: Greg You guys asked for an "East Coast Nationals", you got it! Join us at the largest Nissan gathering of the year! NICO, in conjunction with NOPI, is proud to announce the 2005 Nissans Over Atlanta meet, September 17-18 at the Atlanta Motor Speedway. We have secured an enormous location at AMS in the Red Infield, conveniently located between the vendor midway, snack bar, restrooms, the NOPI Chic tent and the burnout contest! NICO will be well-represented, with tents, NICO models (woo hoo!), sponsor goodies, raffle items, NICO goodies, freebies and Nissan-specific awards. Clean up your ride, bring your favorite passenger, come out and meet the Administrators and Moderators (and NICO models) from YOUR website! Check out the pics from the last NICO event here:https://www.nicoclub.com/meetgallery.shtml Registration is easy and inexpensive. PLEASE NOTE: Registering your car for the show for $70 not only gets you AND a passenger into the event for both days (saving $10), but also secures you a prime parking location with the rest of the Nissans, the ability to bring a cooler with beverages and snacks (saving lots more $$$), eligibility for the raffle, and the Nissan-specific awards NICO will be handing out. Make sure you list NICO as your club affiliation at registration. More info will be posted as it becomes available, but this is a DON'T MISS event for all you loyal NICOnauts - I'm looking forward to meeting you all and having a great time in sunny HOTLANTA! REGISTER HERE!! http://www.nopinationals.com/2005/default.cfm Contact Info: Greg [post_title] => 2005 Nissans Over Atlanta Meet [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissansoveratlanta [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:58:58 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:58:58 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [21] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1276 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-20 20:49:20 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-21 03:49:20 [post_content] => 2009 Nissan Rogue Named TOP SAFETY PICK BY IIHS
Saturday, August 23, 2008Posted by: Matt

08.20.2008
The Nissan Rogue has earned a Top Safety Pick award from the Insurance Institute of Highway Safety. The Rogue, as well as nine other small SUVs, was evaluated for front, side and rear crash protection. The Top Safety Pick award recognizes vehicles that provide superior overall crash protection among vehicles in their class and only includes vehicles with available electronic stability control, the Rogue comes standard with Nissan’s electronic stability control system, Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC).

About the safety features of the Nissan Rogue:
The 2008 Nissan Rogue offers a full complement of standard safety features, including vehicle dynamic control with a traction control system,multiple standard air bags, featuring theNissan Advanced Air Bag System (AABS) with dual stage supplemental front air bags with seat belt sensors and an occupant classification sensor, roof-mounted curtain supplemental side-impact air bags for front-and rear-seat occupant head protection, along with a standard Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) and driver/passenger seat belt warning lamps. Also standard are front seat belts with pretensioners and load limiters, LATCH (Lower Anchors and Tethers for CHildren) child seat anchors and tether system, front seats with active head restraints and Zone Body Construction with front and rear crumple zones to help dissipate crash energy away from the passenger compartment.
Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan Rogue earns Top Safety Pick award [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-rogue-safety [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:10:41 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:10:41 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [22] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1277 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Nissan Project Zed: 0-60mph in 1.2 seconds! Sunday, August 30, 2009 Posted by: nissangirl74 A very special Nissan Z-Car is ready to rumble at Santa Pod! Built to break multiple European records, the hand built dragster will be the only Japanese engined car competing against more traditional American V8 machinery in Mainstream drag racing this year. The lovingly prepared Project Zed is powered by a Nissan 350Z 3.5-litre V6 engine producing nearly 1,900bhp. Owner and driver John Bradshaw is thrilled to be taking his mighty machine to the famous Santa Pod Raceway, Northants. John comments: “It’s incredible to finally have the car ready to test now and we are all very excited by its potential. It really is a car that is capable of setting records around the world and just shows what a Nissan engine is capable of producing.” Project Zed is the first ever Pro Class 350Z to be seen in Europe and has been eagerly awaited by drag fans all over Europe. It’s no surprise to find that predicted acceleration times are breathtaking. Not only is 0-60mph expected to take only 1.2 seconds, but 0-168mph will arrive in just 4.1 seconds. The team are no strangers to success having set the fastest quarter mile time in the world for a Nissan Skyline (7.68 seconds @ 177mph) with their other car, Project GTST, which is a 1997 Nissan Skyline RWD GTST. Producing over 1,150bhp at the wheels, the car holds the record for the fastest Japanese car in Europe for 2008 and retains that title to date in 2009. Performance figures for Project Zed are expected as follows: * 0-60 mph – 1.2 second * 0-168 mph – 4.1 seconds * 0-215+ mph – 6.6 seconds [post_title] => Nissan Project Zed [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissanprojectzed [to_ping] => [pinged] => http://www.inautonews.com/nissan-project-zed-0-60mph-in-12-seconds http://www.inautonews.com/nissan-project-zed-0-60mph-in-12-seconds [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 22:14:39 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 05:14:39 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [23] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1278 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => 2005 NOPI Nationals Tuesday, September 20, 2005 Posted by: Torry Above: NICO Spokesmodel Elizabeth Haynie stands next to the 1st place trophy awarded to NICO for Club Participation. WOW! is about all that is can be said. Words don't even begin to describe the 2005 Nopi Nationals. NICO dominated the NOPI Nationals this year. For the first time ever, NICO entered the show as a club. In the past, we had come to the show as a small group, just to see the sites. Usually we'd have an "official" dinner on Saturday night to meet everyone from NICO. But this year was different. We kicked this year's NOPI Nationals off with a dinner on Friday night at the Roadhouse Grill. Over 50 people showed up. Some faces were new, some were old, but we all felt like family. Saturday morning we headed to the track bright and early. We got to the track at about 7am and began setting up our cars.We secured space under our tent for Rex's (Speedoctor) '65 Silvia, Mike's 700+ HP G35, Scott's (lowjack) Alphasonik 350Z, and Cory's (OneFastStanza) Turbocharged Sentra Spec V.Mark's (S14MarkSR) crystal clean SR20DET powered 240SX and Fred's (Palmerwmd) Supercharged 350Z created the centerpiece in front of the tent. Soon after, tons of cars rolled in. The number of 350Z's and G35's were remarkable. Most were NICO members already, but those who weren't were soon to be. The rest of the day was filled by thousands of positive comments about the club and the cars we had there. Even our Club rivalry for NOPI, Fa Sho, stopped in to give us some kind words on the cars at our tent. Thanks guys! Our NICO Models also proved to be a real attention getter on Saturday. Not only were they signing posters for hundreds of people, but they were truly attention getters when walking through the vendor area. Walking with them, we must have stopped 5 times in the vendor area so that people could get their pictures taken with them. Saturday night ended quietly, as most people went back to the hotel to relax. However, some of us went out to The Outback for dinner to kick back. Sunday started even earlier than the previous day.We woke up at 5am to prepare for what would be the most exciting day of the entire show.Word of our area must have gotten out, because Sunday brought us many new people who we had not yet met. Liz signed posters left and right, people were in and out of our tent all day long, and compliments to NICO were heard around the track. Elizabeth, our new head of modeling for NICO, brought the attention of hundreds to our area. Lucas Oil even asked to do a photoshoot with her for their upcoming calendar. During the photoshoot, when the Lucas photographer was done, tons more people continued taking pictures of her for at least 30 minutes. The day had gone by much quicker than the previous because of all the activity in the area.At the end of the day, most of us went to the award ceremony, while a small group of people stayed back at the tent, and assisted Liz as she autographed more posters. At the award ceremony, NICO was awarded the largest award given at the show--1st in Club Participation! Additionally, the following people from NICO won: Michael Delacruz - 3rd Place - G35 Sport Coupe Street Rex Birkmire - 1st Place - Asian Classic Street Slim Dub - 3rd Place - Asian Engine Swap Custom Wes Stinson - 3rd Place - Asian Luxury Custom Jonathan Coronel - 2nd Place - JDM Style 240SX Street Andrew Margrave - 3rd Place - 240SX Street Carl Hernandez - 2nd Place - Asian Engine Swap Custom Darrin Forte - 3rd Place - Dyno 6 Cylinder Forced Induction In addition, NICO gave out some awards that were voted on by members. Those awards go to the following people: Mark Jackson - Best 240SX Scott Parker - Best Nissan (350Z) Slim Dub - Cleanest Swap (300ZX) Michael Delacruz - Best Infiniti (G35) For the rest of the photos, please take a look at: AZhitman's Photos Neejay's Photos biggie's Photos Maverick7687's Photos Exar-Kun's Photos idriveaTTz32's Photos lowjack'sDrift Photos lowjack'sShow Photos DammitBobby'sShow Photos DammitBobby'sGirl Photos Thanks again for everyone's support! Keep checking back with this page as we will be adding more and more photo albums as we get them! Contact Info: Torry [post_title] => 2005 NOPI National Review [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2005-nopi-national-review [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 22:59:58 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 05:59:58 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [24] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1279 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Nissan Announces First Details on New GT-R [Sept. 26, 07] Wednesday, September 26, 2007Posted by: Matt TOKYO, Japan, (September 26, 2007) – Nissan today started the pre-launch activities in support of the all-new GT-R, the high performance sports car to be revealed at the Tokyo Motor Show on October 24th. Central to the launch of GT-R, which will ultimately go on sale around the world, is a dedicated website that will provide all information on the car, including latest news, specifications and where to buy. The address for the website is www.gtrnissan.com and will be available in six languages: Japanese, English, Spanish, German, French and Italian. With sales due to start in Japan in December, Nissan is today also confirming the final name of the car. Previous generations of this car were known as the Skyline GT-R; the new name for this car is simply “Nissan GT-R” in all global markets. Supporting substantial early customer interest in the Nissan GT-R, the company is today making available for customers in Japan some initial details including basic specifications, colors and practical information on placing pre-orders. Prices in Japan for the Nissan GT-R will start from around 7.8 million yen. In support of the sale of the Nissan GT-R, the company also announced today the establishment of 160 Nissan High Performance Centers in Japan. These centers have been established to provide specialist sales and servicing support for customers of the Nissan GT-R. # # # Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Release of the Nissan GT-R [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => release-of-the-nissan-gt-r [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-15 23:57:56 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-16 06:57:56 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [25] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1280 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => NISSAN TO TEST NEW ECO-DRIVING SUPPORT SERVICE
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Posted by: Matt

NISSAN TO TEST NEW ECO-DRIVING SUPPORT SERVICE
--Aimed at improving fuel economy and reducing CO2 emissions--

TOKYO (September 22, 2008)--Nissan Motors Co., Ltd., announced today it would begin testing an Eco-driving Support Service which will utilize its advanced information system ITS*1. The service will advise drivers on more fuel-efficient driving methods based real-time analysis. Testing begins Sep. 24.

The new service, which will be available on Nissan's CARWINGS navigation system website, will evaluate the driving behavior of drivers who are currently taking part in Nissan's SKY Project*2 in Kanagawa Prefecture. The SKY Project, which began in October 2006, allows for vehicle-to-infrastructure communication to help reduce traffic accidents and ease congestion.

Eco-driving has been expected in the transportation industry as a way to reduce CO2. However, it has received little support aside from public workshops. Accordingly in 2007, Nissan introduced a new eco-driving support system for its CARWINGS members, the first telematics service for non-business purposes. The first telematics service provided information such as monthly fuel-efficiency rankings derived from members who drive the same model and helpful topics in eco-driving. The new Eco-driving Support Service can potentially improve fuel efficiency by basing its advice on individual driver's habits, giving a more personalized approach to eco-driving tips.

Details are as follows;

1. Comprehensive evaluation of Eco-driving
* Overall evaluation of daily eco-driving.
* Itemized evaluation of fuel-efficiency and idling.
* "Eco Forest" indicator which grows as eco-driving continues.
2. Analysis of eco-driving
* Change of fuel consumption in each driving range and each type of road.
* Points to improve fuel efficiency.
* Analysis of actions related directly to fuel efficiency, such as acceleration, idling, and air-conditioning use.
3. Eco-driving training
* Training program where drivers can learn eco-driving skills such as "slow acceleration" when starting, "using less acceleration and deceleration" while driving, and "smooth deceleration" when pulling in.
* Training program to encourage continued eco-driving with potential benefits like "up to 1,000 yen savings in gas money" and "reduction of up to 10kg of CO2".*3

Based on the results of the test, Nissan will examine the effect and acceptability of the Eco-driving Support Service. The results will be evaluated for use in future services including its CARWINGS service.

With its aim to reduce greenhouse emissions, Nissan will continue to introduce more eco-friendly products and services under its Nissan Green Program 2010.

(*1) Intelligent Transport Systems: An advanced information system connecting people, vehicles and traffic infrastructure.
(*2) SKY Project: SKY is an abbreviation of Start ITS from Kanagawa, Yokohama. This project is a collaboration between Nissan Motor Co., Ltd., NTT DoCoMo, Inc., Matsushita Electrical Industrial Co., Ltd., and Xanavi Informatics Corp.
(*3) This is based on calculations by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport in Japan.Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan Presents Eco-driving Support Service [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-active-efficiency [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:00:54 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:00:54 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [26] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1281 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Vos wins Nissan's ninth successive off road championship Wednesday, September 2, 2009 Posted by: Matt Vos wins Nissan's ninth successive off road championship -- South Africa Off-road Championship -- Gauteng, August 29 - Duncan Vos and Ralph Pitchford (Donaldson Nissan Navara) are the 2009 champion driver and co-driver in this year's Absa National Off Road Championship for production vehicles. They secured their titles, Vos's fourth and Pitchford's second, with two rounds remaining when they finished eighth overall in the Highveld 400 in Gauteng on Saturday afternoon. It was Nissan Motorsport's ninth successive championship win since the company switched from circuit racing to off road racing in 2001. Such has been the domination of Vos and Pitchford in this year's championship - they have won four of the six events to date - that their poorest result of the season so far was enough to put them out of reach of their nearest rivals. Vos was the defending champion driver and has now won the title three years in succession. The Highveld 400, which started from Carnival City with a 99-km prologue on Friday and finished at Carnival City after two racing legs of 134 km on Saturday. Terence Marsh and Pieter Groenewald (Regent Racing Nissan Navara) were third, 29 min 17 sec behind the winners and 14 min 41 sec ahead of Nissan Motorsport's Ivar Tollefsen and Quin Evans (Donaldson Nissan Navara). Vos and Pitchford, who had started fourth among the production vehicles on Saturday after suffering a puncture on the prologue and losing further time beached on a disused dam wall, reached the mandatory service stop at the halfway point in second place. On the second loop they hit a rock in the dust as they tried to take the lead and suffered a broken bolt on the steering arm. They limped very slowly some 70 km to the finish, completing the loop 58 minutes slower than they had done earlier in the morning. Ivar Tollefsen and Quin Evans, who had been second in the championship at the start of the event, lost all further hope of challenging for the title when they started 47th among the combined production and special vehicle field on Saturday after losing 22 minutes stuck on the same dam wall as their team-mates. Despite heavy dust which made overtaking difficult, they battled their way back into the top 10 by the halfway stage and did well to finish in the top four. They are now third in the championship and still in the running for the runner-up spot. Related URL: NISSAN MOTERSPORTSContact Info: Matt [post_title] => Vos wins Nissan's ninth successive off road championship [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => vos-wins-nissans-successive-off-road-championshi [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:01:07 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:01:07 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [27] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1283 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => NISSAN TO TEST REAL-TIME "SLIP-HAZARD WARNING SYSTEM" Wednesday, October 3, 2007 Posted by: Matt TOKYO (October 1, 2007)-- Nissan Motor Co., Ltd. today announced that it will test its "slip-hazard warning system" in Hokkaido, Northern Japan, to help mitigate accidents on slippery roads experienced in cold weather conditions. The advanced intelligent-system combines data from its ITS*1 (Intelligent Transport System) and in-vehicle ABS (anti-lock braking system) to issue real-time voice alerts as the vehicle approaches a slippery point in the road. The Hokkaido test is part of the ITS project piloted in Kanagawa Prefecture since October 2006, involving customers' vehicle participation*2, to help reduce traffic accidents and congestion. The extension of the project in Hokkaido is intended to evaluate the tolerances in the system under real-world driving conditions. Around Sapporo city, Nissan is expecting about 100 vehicles, which are equipped with the Carwings navigation system to provide the necessary real-world driving sample data for this project. The customer selection will begin in October 2007, and the test phase will be conducted from November 2007 to March 2008, in cooperation with the Hokkaido Prefectural Police. Nissan hopes to examine the accuracy, effectiveness and feasibility of the system utilizing various probe data, for future commercial application. In addition to the "slip-hazard warning system", the newly-improved Carwings system offers a full range of information for the customer such as traffic information and route navigation. * The latest slippery points Real-time map of slippery points relative to current vehicle position based on data received via its Carwings communications system and probe information*3 i.e. activation of ABS operation indicating slippery conditions. * Statistical data based on historical records of the slippery points. * Location of reported skid accidents from past years. Location of skid accidents in the most recent year. Image of navigation display *1: The Intelligent Transport System is an advanced information system that connects people, vehicles and traffic infrastructure that can contribute to help improve road safety. *2: The ITS Project in Kanagawa prefecture is a collaboration between Nissan, NTT DoCoMo Inc., Matsushita Electric Industrial Co., and Xanavi Infomatics Corp. NTT DoCoMo Hokkaido Inc. is also involved in the test in Hokkaido. *3: Vehicle location, speed and other information via cellular communications. Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan Tests Slip-Hazard Warning System [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-tests-slip-hazard-warning-system [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:01:26 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:01:26 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [28] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1284 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN RENAULT AND EDF OBJECTIVE: ZERO EMISSIONS
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Posted by: Matt

Paris, October 9 2008 - Renault and French electric utility EDF today signed a memorandum of understanding to create, starting with France, a large scale zero-emissions individual transport and travel system. The objective is to establish electric cars as a viable and attractive transport solution for consumers. The partnership was officially launched today by Carlos Ghosn, President and CEO of Renault and Nissan, and Pierre Gadonneix, Chairman and CEO of EDF.

The Renault Nissan Alliance aims to become the world's leading manufacturer of zero-emission vehicles. France will be one of the first global markets to receive these all-electric models, along with Israel, Denmark, Portugal, the state of Tennessee (USA), and Kanagawa Prefecture (Japan), all of which have announced similar partnerships with the Renault Nissan Alliance.

EDF, owner of the world's biggest fleet of electric vehicles, has considerable experience and expertise in electric power storage technologies and recharging infrastructures, and in operating fleets of rechargeable vehicles. EDF is committed to expanding the availability of clean mobility solutions.

Through the agreement signed today, the Renault Nissan Alliance and EDF aim to provide consumers access to zero emission mobility from 2011. In support of this objective, the Renault Nissan Alliance and EDF will jointly develop an innovative commercial project, open to other interested parties, leading to the set up of an Electric Mobility Operator in the longer term. The role of the Electric Mobility Operator will be to supply customers with the infrastructure to recharge an electric vehicle and to manage its range.

Between now and January 2010, the partners will study engineering requirements, national and European regulations and all necessary technical and financial procedures, including the identification of new partners, to ensure that the infrastructure is ready for a vehicle launch in 2011.

Carlos Ghosn, President and CEO of Renault and President and CEO of Nissan, said, "To reconcile the demand for individual mobility with the preservation of the environment and high cost of oil, the Renault Nissan Alliance is committed to the development of "zero-emission" vehicles. Thanks to our partnership with EDF, in 2011 we will be able to provide our customers in France with high-performance and affordable electric vehicles."

Pierre Gadonneix, Chairman and CEO of EDF, said, "This technological and industrial partnership paves the way for innovation that will promote the emergence of new-generation vehicles that are clean, competitive and ecologically virtuous. The aim is to reconcile the challenges of individual mobility and economic growth with efforts to combat global warming. This is the commitment made by EDF, which ranks among the energy companies with the lowest CO2 emissions in Europe."

Renault
The Renault Group generated global revenues of €40,682 million in 2007. It designs, engineers, manufactures and sells passenger and light commercial vehicles throughout the world. The Renault Group is present in 118 countries and sells vehicles under its three brands - Renault, Dacia and Samsung. The Renault Group employs 129,000 people worldwide.

Nissan
The Nissan Motor Company generated global net revenues of 10.824 trillion yen in 2007. Nissan is present in all major global auto markets selling a comprehensive range of cars, pickup trucks, SUVs and light commercial vehicles under the Nissan and Infiniti brands. Nissan employs over 220,000 people worldwide.

The Renault Nissan Alliance
The Renault Nissan Alliance, founded in 1999, sold 6,160,046 vehicles in 2007. The objective of the Alliance is to rank among the world's top three vehicle manufacturers in terms of quality, technology and profitability.

EDF
The EDF Group ranks among the leaders in Europe's energy market. It is an integrated energy company with presence in a wide range of businesses: generation, transmission, distribution, supply and energy trading. EDF is Europe's biggest electricity producer. In France, the Group uses mainly nuclear and hydroelectric generation resources, for an electricity supply that is 95% CO2-free. EDF's transmission and distribution subsidiaries operate 1,246,000 km of medium- and low-voltage overhead and underground power lines and around 100,000 km of high- and very-high voltage networks. The Group is involved in supplying energy and services to more than 38 million customers worldwide, including more than 28 million in France. In 2007, the EDF Group reported consolidated sales of €59.6 billion, of which 44% in Europe excluding France. EDF is listed on the Paris stock exchange and is a member of the CAC 40 index.
Contact Info: Matt [post_title] => Nissan commits to development of zero-emission vehicles [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-zero-emission [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:01:48 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:01:48 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [29] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1285 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_content] => Comparison between 2010 Lexus RX 350 and 2010 Murano LE
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Posted by: nissangirl74

TheCarConnection.com has just updated our full review of the Murano for 2010 and thought it would be the perfect time for a little match-up...against the 2010 Lexus RX 350.

When the Nissan Murano was first redesigned for 2009, we wrote, "The 2009 Murano is just as smooth as the RX, definitely sharper in profile, and very nearly the Lexus' equal in interior refinement."

Then came an all-new 2010 Lexus RX 350, nearly a year later, and the rivalry was back on. Although the redesign the Lexus received kept its profile so intact that it might not even be perceived as a new vehicle, even a passing glance inside revealed a much richer cabin and more stylish instrument panel.

New with the Nissan's redesign was a Murano LE model, which was loaded with luxury features; today the LE costs just about as much as the base RX 350.

As it stands, both of these models have exterior designs that are the subject of more than a little criticism (the Murano's grille and exterior details have been panned by some), yet they're much more appreciated inside as stylish, luxurious conveyances, with some visual excitement and plush materials to satisfy occupants, even if there's not a lot of driving satisfaction for the driver.

We've had plenty of good seat time in both of these vehicles, so here's our comparison—both by the numbers, with some subjectivity thrown in to break an almost-tie:

2010 Lexus RX 350

The basics: 275-hp, 3.5-liter V-6, six-speed automatic transmission with sport shift mode, all-wheel drive. Seating for five.
Safety: Five stars, all frontal and side NHTSA tests; 'Good,' frontal, side, and rear IIHS tests; Top Safety Pick
Price: $38,200
Fuel economy: 18/24 mpg
Rating: 8.4 out of 10

The 2010 Lexus RX 350 driving experience is quite numb overall, but that conforms to expectations to some degree; the RX has found a strong, loyal following from luxury buyers—especially empty-nesters—because it's such a dependable, luxurious isolation chamber that performs responsively though not lively. Even with the optional Sport Package, you probably won't be inspired to hotfoot into corners.

The RX 350's adaptive torque split all-wheel drive system sends all torque to the front wheels except when needed at the back for traction, such as in a quick start. The RX 350 isn't meant for off-roading, but it does have a diff lock mode that might be useful for deep snow or sand.

The interior is extremely refined and quiet, but the cabin of the 2010 Lexus RX 350 isn't nearly as roomy as some shoppers might hope, in a mid-size crossover that doesn't try to cram a third-row seat in back. Front-seat headroom is a bit restricted, and there's not a lot of cargo space behind the second row. There are lots of great details, though, and TheCarConnection.com found the new Remote Touch controller that's used in the RX 350 less distracting than rival controllers from BMW and Mercedes-Benz.

With top crash-test scores from both agencies, along with ten airbags in all, plus hill-holder and optional dynamic handling and Pre-Collision Systems, the 2010 RX is about the best it gets for safety-conscious luxury shoppers.

The base Lexus RX 350 comes with all the trappings of a luxury vehicle, but you'll be tempted by the long list of extras. They include bi-xenon headlamps, adaptive front lighting, a moonroof, heated and ventilated seats, rain-sensing wipers, power heated mirrors, a premium sound system, a heads-up system, and a nav system with XM NavTraffic and NavWeather.

Bottom Line: The 2010 Lexus RX 350 leaves few owners wanting more luxury or practicality, but the "passionate pursuit of perfection" could use a little more passion.
The 2010 Murano

The basics: 265-hp, 3.5-liter V-6, CVT, all-wheel drive. Seating for five.
Safety: Four stars frontal, five stars side impact, NHTSA; 'Good,' frontal, side, and rear tests; Top Safety Pick
Price: $38,180
Fuel economy: 18/23 mpg
Rating: 8.2 out of 10

When the Nissan Murano was completely redesigned for 2009, Nissan improved the 'shift logic' that governs the CVT's behavior, making it much better at anticipating when you expect to quickly access power (out of a tight corner, for instance). But we still wish for a manual mode, like that on the Nissan Maxima for curvy back roads.

It's a shame, as the Murano does handle quite well, with better body control than most mid-size crossovers and a crisp turn-in. The Murano's all-wheel drive system splits power 50/50 between the front and rear wheels, but sends more to the front or rear wheels as needed.

Even though the LE is loaded to the gills, it doesn't always feel like a luxury vehicle. For instance, the V-6 is a bit too load when passing at full throttle, and there's more road noise than you might expect. The seats are comfortable, but overall passenger space isn't that impressive, and the steep roofline takes its toll on cargo space.

With nearly perfect crash-test scores, scarred only by four-star federal frontal scores, the Murano is a very safe pick. The IIHS even went so far as to vote it the safest midsize SUV last year. Equipment-wise, the Murano doesn't have the high-tech features that you might find on a Lexus though—or Nissan's Infiniti brand for that matter.

Overall, the top-of-the-line Murano LE comes with a few more standard features than the base-model Lexus RX 350. Items like a power tailgate release, heated front seats, a backup camera, and rain-sensing wipers—all optional on the RX—are included on the LE. So are HID headlamps and the larger 20-inch wheels that really fill out the wheel wells and just make the Murano look sportier and more serious from a distance.

Bottom Line: The 2010 Nissan Murano appeals to those who value style and refinement above absolute practicality.

The Winner: Lexus RX 350

If we had to choose between these two on a backroad of our choice, we'd rather be behind the wheel of the 2010 Nissan Murano, but then again buyers wanting driving fun in a crossover should be looking elsewhere—to the Infiniti FX35 or Audi Q5, among premium offerings, or the 2010 Mazda CX-7 for those on more of a budget.

Bust the badges off, and the Murano and RX are almost even. The 2010 RX 350 feels more refined and isolated, while the Murano is just a little more responsive, less calming. To option the RX up to the features found in the Murano LE could cost thousands. Yet for a little more money the Lexus can be appointed with some truly impressive tech features that aren't offered on the Murano.

Finally, perhaps most important is the brand experience. When you go back to service the Murano you'll be lumped in with Versa owners, while the Lexus dealership experience is second to none.

Simply put, in the real world where badges do matter, the Lexus RX 350 is the $40k price of entry into a luxury experience, while the Nissan Murano is a $40k vehicle that might be taken even when new for a $30k vehicle.

http://blogs.thecarconnection.com/marty-blog/1037094_compared-2010-lexus-rx-350-vs-2010-nissan-murano-le/page-1
Contact Info: nissangirl74 [post_title] => 2010 Lexus RX 350 and 2010 Murano LE comparison [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => rx350-murano-comparison [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:51:50 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:51:50 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [30] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1286 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => First off, I'm going to include some pictures and diagrams once I get back to my home computer later today, so this is just the write up phase of things and I"ll include pics from the FSM... So anyway, this weekend, I went over to Ryan's house to replace the brakes on his G35....Here's what we used: Hawk HPS pads Stillen slotted rotors (I think) Just so anyone knows, this was a REALLY easy job and it was certainly worth my drive down there (because I got to bed the pads) and it was worth Ryan's time rather than paying the dealer a few hundred to do it... Here's what you'll need, as far as tools.. - 22mm socket for the caliper bracket bolts (I think its 22mm, we used a 7/8 socket because we only had up to 19mm) - if memory serves, the rear caliper bolts were 18mm - 3 inch or bigger C clamp - Brake grease - Breaker bar, air tools preferred - various extensions and so forth - Jack and Jackstands (NEVER EVER EVER EVER USE THE OEM JACK FOR THINGS LIKE THIS!!!! NEVER!) So we started with the front.. Really wasn't that hard, except getting the calipers off. Its pretty hard to get in there, because the wheel well is so small and those huge bolts are really cranked on there good. This is where air tools would make it easy because you could get in there with an air gun without too much problem....(figure 1) Just 2 bolts on the caliper bracket, and the caliper and bracket come off...be sure to support the caliper on something, we had a crate that we set it on. You don't want to let the caliper dangle by the line.... At this point, if you're just replacing the pads, then you can simply undo one of the caliper pins (illustration), lift the caliper up, and replace the pads as stated later.... (figure 2) So now the caliper is off....You can now take the rotor off... What I thought was especially cute, is that on most rotors they give you a threaded hole to push the rotor off with a small 12mm bolt. On the G, they already have it there for you... Those Infiniti guys were really thinking about the people that work on brakes, because whenever I do it I always end up taking a bolt somewhere off the car and using it for that!! (figure 3) Anywho, once the caliper is off, you can take off the rotor...if it wont come off by hand, use that 12mm bolt supplied on your OEM rotor...Simply screw it in and start tightening it...it forces the rotor away from the hub and you'll feel it POP off... Then simply remove the rotor. It is ideal to thoroughly clean the hub of all the rust and stuff with a dremel or wire brush...unfortunately, i didn't have my wire brush thing for my dremel so I didn't do that..however I applied some WD40 on there just because..... This is a picture of the hub and as you can see it needs some serious cleaning, this was before I cleaned it..... Now that the rotor and caliper is off, you can replace the pads. On the OEM calipers, there is a small clip that holds in the pad on the upper left hand side of each side of the caliper. Get some needle nose pliers and pull that clip down, and then you can simply push the pad out with your finger... I noticed that only 1 per side of the hawk pads had these clips, whereas the OEMs had 2...doesn't really matter...but definitely put the one WITHOUT THE CLIP on the PISTON... One thing I sort of discovered by accident is that the caliper bracket just pulls off. You have to remove the caliper bracket in order to push the piston back... So simply pull the caliper bracket away from the caliper, and set it aside... You can then use your C clamp to push back the piston. BE SURE TO TAKE OFF THE LID TO THE MASTER CYLINDER! What we did, instead of sucking fluid out, is just took off the lid and put a towel over it.YOU DO NOT WANT TO SPILL BRAKE FLUID ANYWHERE!!If this is your first time messing with brakes, you should probably replace your brake fluid....which will be discussed later... so once you push the piston back , you can put the caliper bracket on the slide pins and install the pads. Before you do that, put a little bit of that grease on the pins..... To install the pads, simply put them in with the flat side facing down(the top of the pad is curved, and the bottom is flat).....It does not matter which side they go on.... Cover the back and sides of the pad with the grease, and install into the caliper... Once you install them and the caliper is ready to go back onto the car, put the rotor on..I noticed it helps to put a few of the lug nuts on finger tight to hold the rotor in place...You don't need to put that little nut back on the rotor as with our aftermarket rotors they did not work.... save them for later use... Repeat this 3 times...the rears were MUCH easier than the front, I did one rear brake in about 15 minutes.... Another thing of note is that I did not see any jack points for the rear. The frame goes too far forward, and the chassis is so stiff it will actually fall back somewhat.... I supported it on the subframe with my jack stand, there is a level place, it is hard to describe, but you should see it..... Now that your brakes are done, you are now ready to bed the pads..An excuse to violate the brakes, life is good, right?? it is VITAL that you bed the pads in correctly or they will not work right.... First off be sure to pump the pedal a few times so you get full pressure back... Now go out and make about 10 40-almost 0 stops..apply over half pressure....You don't want to stop all the way!!!! Just stop most the way but while your doing the bedding process, NEVER come to a complete stop with your foot on the brake.. After you do that, let the brakes cool for a few minutes, then do a few 60+ to zero stops applying full pressure... Congrats you have just replaced your brakes on your G35! Now, next time wear some rubber gloves so that your not scrubbing brake crap off your hands for 3 days!!! [post_title] => Changing the Brakes on an Infiniti G35 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => brake-job-on-the-g35 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-02-27 17:28:47 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-02-28 00:28:47 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [31] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1287 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Hey guys. I was really interested in the Ghetto Air Box (GAB) but did not want to destroy the filter holder (>65 dollar value according to Dave B) So I thought up a way to create the same thing without cutting part of the holder off. This may have been thought up before but I didn’t know about it.

First you will need the following:

The basic tools, a hanger (I used a thick gauge one), black sharpie, and of course your filter (Mine is the K&N one):

Unwind the hanger as shown below:

Straighten up the hanger as best as you can:

Now you want to center the hanger at the bottom of the filter and mark on the hanger where the side of the filter is like seen in this picture below:

Now bend the hanger in a 90 degree angle like so:

Do the same thing for the other side (Make sure the hanger is fairly flat against the filter):

Now mark the top part of the hanger where the top part of the filter is and bend those in at 90 degree angles too:

Now move in about 2-3 inches and bend the hanger away from the filter like seen in the picture. Then move out about 1-2 inches away from filter or about 0.5 inches more than the distance from your filter (where the hanger is at) to the edge of the opening that's near the headlight (yeah this is a little confusing) See two pictures below for a better understanding.

Stick the filter in and then mark the hanger hangs back out like seen:

After marking the hanger go and bend it so it goes around the lip of the opening of the air box like seen below:

The final product:

and a close-up of it

I haven't cut the ends off yet. Another thing I am going to do is add electrical tape around the hanger just so it looks better and some extra around the area where the hanger is now hooked onto the air box opening. But I'd figure this will help those out there that are wanting to do this mod but not wanting to cut their filter holder or just have the really ugly duck tape holding it in.

Butt feeling of this is that it feels like the car can breathe a lot better and seems to have better response even in low end.

Special thanks for this write up goes to Fezzik (David Honey).
Posted with permission from the author.

[post_title] => 5th-Generation Maxima - Make a Ghetto Airbox [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-ghetto-airbox [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:55:16 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:55:16 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [32] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1288 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This How-To was performed on a 5th-Generation (2k2) Maxima. Installation should be similar to other Maxima generations as well. Special thanks for this write up goes to Fezzik (David Honey). Posted with permission from the author. This is going to be a simple How To for the H&R wheel spacer on the rear. When you do get a spacer, make sure it is hub centric and not the ones where there is lug nuts on it. Get one similar to the picture below. This picture here shows most all the tools you will need to install a 20mm spacer. If you are installing a 10mm or a 5mm spacer then you can probably ignore the stud removal and install. First jack up the car in the rear and take off the wheels. I did this one wheel at a time. First loosen this bolt on the caliper. There is another at the bottom that you will have to take out too. Once you get the two bolts off, get the rubber mallet and hammer this part of the caliper off. It should come off with ease as shown below. In the pic below you can see the brake pads and the metal cover that goes on the pads. DO NOT BEND THE METAL COVER. It easily bends. Next remove this bolt and the one below to remove the second part of the caliper. Once you remove these two bolts, The 2nd part of the caliper comes off easily. Next the rotor should come right off. It may take a bit of a tug or a few hits with the rubber mallet. DO NOT HIT THE ROTOR WITH THE METAL HAMMER. You can break this if you do. Next with the metal hammer, knock out the studs. After a good hit they should pop right out. This next pic shows the studs removed and the difference in the size of studs if you get spacers bigger than 10mm. The pic below show the rotor cover that has to be knocked back to fit the studs in. This was the only way I could get the studs in. You may try to give it a shot, but after about 30 mins you will resort to this I promise. Before: After: Put the new provided studs from H&R in and put on the rotor Now put the wheel spacer on as such and put 2-4 washers on each stud and the lug nut. This will tighten the studs into the holes better. Once you have the 2-4 washers on and the lug, tighten that lug up a bit until you can not push the stud out no more with a good amount of force so when you put on the wheel they will not pop out. Here is fellow maxima owner Cullen Jones helping me out putting on the wheel. You really have to tighten up the lug nuts to ensure that they are forced into their holes well. I would tighten a little bit beyond torque specs and loosen and retighten a few times. Be sure to check the tightness for the next few days. Here are some pics before the spacers in the rear. Here are a couple of after the spacer has been installed. And a comparison between two 2002 Maximas. Notice the huge difference. This How-To was brought to you by David Honey (aka Fezzik on all the car forums). [post_title] => Nissan Maxima - How To Install Rear Wheel Spacers [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-general-how-to-install-wheel-spacers [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-11 16:15:27 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-11 23:15:27 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [33] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1289 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Special thanks for this write up goes to audtatious (Matt Moody).
Posted with permission from the author.

Use this image as a location reference to the steps below:

Step 1: Use a flat head screwdriver and remove the plug at the bottom of the "grip" (what you use to close the door from the inside). Remove the Phillips screw. Gently pry the back of the section up. When the grip pocket has cleared the panel, pull backward and the whole assembly should pull out. Disconnect the connectors for the power windows and door locks and put the piece to the side.

Step 2: Gently pry the cover off the panel. Remove the phillips screw underneath.Refer to #2 of the reference image for location.

Step 3: Gently pry off the door handle trim. Start at the back, then using a small flat-head screwdriver, work the piece off by wedging the screwdriver between the trim and the plastic behind the handle to release the clips.

Step 4: The outside edge of the door panel is held to door with plastic clips. Using a panel popper or flat head screwdriver, gently pry the panel away from the bottom of the door. On my car, there was a section below the map pocket that I could put my fingers in and help pull. Once you have the first clip loose, you can run your hand along the edge to disengage the remaining clips. Once disengaged, pull the panel out from the bottom and push upward to disengage the trim at the top. You can either leave the door panel hanging from the wires running to the courtesy light/fuel filler/trunk or you can disconnect them. It's your call.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Speaker Replacement: Remove the 4 screws holding the factory speaker in place. Disengage the plug attached to the factory speaker. If you are running new speaker wires, good luck. If you are going to use the factory wires from the trunk, then the wire codes are:
Blue w/white = Left positive
Blue w/yellow = Left negative
Brown = Right positive
Brown w/white = Right negative
Reinstall the door panel in reverse order.

Speaker removed from door mount:

New speaker installed:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Front Tweeters (panel removal + replacement):

A-Pillar Removal: (See image below for locations) Step 1: Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the A-Pillar by sliding the end under the weatherstripping and rotating it behind the pillar cover. Then, pry the panel off by pulling the screwdriver towards the inside of the vehicle. This should be done appx 3" from the top of the panel. Once the top of the panel has been released, you can run your fingers down the edge to release the remaining clips while pulling from the top towards the inside of the car. To finish removing the panel, wiggle it while pulling towards the back of the vehicle.

Step 2: The factory tweeter is mounted on a metal bracket and attached to the body via two plastic "snaps". Use a flathead screwdriver or panel popper to pry the bracket off the A-pillar. Disconnect the wires and set it to the side.Tweeter after removal:

Step 3: There are three ways to mount the new tweeter. You can remove the factory tweeter and modify the mount to accept a new tweeter, you can use two-sided tape to mount the new tweeter in the origional location, or you can hot-glue the new tweeter to the panel (my choice). You can easily run a new speaker wire withthe panel removed.

Step 4: Reinstall the panel in reverse order. Make sure the weatherstripping is properly covering the edge of the panel when completed.

Author, Matt Moody, is a NICO Maxima Moderator and owner of a 2k2 Maxima SE

This is a simple how-to on going from plain to chrome

This works for all 5th and 5.5th gen Maximas

This install is basically the same for the 5.0th gen and the 5.5th gen maximas. This install is on my 2000 maxima I had previously.I sold the car awhile back and bought my 2002 6-speed maxima.I loved the chrome gauges so much i installed them on my 2002 and the install was almost exactly the same. The difference will be show further down the page.

First Lower the steering wheel to the max.You do not have to lock it into place. Just let it sit all the way down. Now you have to unscrew everything. There are a few screws that are on the underside of the steering column.These need to come out. When you have the screws out the top part will pop off.This is done by fitting a thin blade screwdriver in between the two.This is what the manual said to do but I was able to do this by just using my hands and pressure to pry apart.. Do not worry if you can not remove the lower piece.

This is what it looks like with the top part off.Do not worry about removing any of the wires show in the picture above.These can stay.Now the black piece that is surrounding the cluster gauge (which has theside view mirror switch, interior light control, and some cars memory seats on the left side and a sloted area on bottom right as seen above)will need to come out.This is done by removing two screws from the top of the place piece .Then this piece is held in place with just clips. IMPORTANT:This part will now pull away from the dash. Do this lightly.You have wires that go to the switches that you will tear if you pull too hard.Also note to Auto Climate control Maximas:there is a temp wire and a tube that is in the slot in the bottom right of the pic above.

Above Pic is of the two switches on the bottom right that have to be removed. I had to do it this way by removing them after i pulled the cluster out a little because when i removed the switches there wasnt enough wire lenght to get my hands back to take apart the switch.If you can remove the switches and then remove the connectors then that'll be easier.

The Pic below is for the people who have Auto Climate control. I do not remember if people with non auto climate have this or not.Would not hurt to check.The connector is the one that is in complete focus that looks like it lies behind the slotted area on the black cluster surrounding.Disconnect this. There is also a plastic acordian tubing that is connecting to this point also. This is easy to disconnect.

Below pic is of the cluster surrounding removed.Notice the two connectors on the left, the one on the right and the black tube on the right.

Now there are 3 obvioius screws that are holding the cluster in place. Remove these. and the cluster comes out like so:

Disconnect the 3 connectors above and the cluster is free from the car.

I don't have a pic of what needs to be done next.You will need to remove the clear plastic.In the above pic you can see the latches of the clear plastic.These are easy to remove but a caution as they are easy to break also.I bought a new plastic piece to put back so it will look new again cause mine had tons of micro scratches that were getting on my nerves.

Once you have the clear plastic piece removed, here is where the steps fork.If you have a 5.5th gen then you will not need to make your fuel and temp gauge any bigger, or if they have finally made smaller rings for the 5.0th gens then you won't. I dont know if they do make smaller rings. If you do not have to make the holes bigger then for the 5.5th gen just pop out the silver rings that are in there and place the new rings in.5.0th gens do not have these silver rings as seen above.Just put in the new rings.

These next steps are only for people who need to make bigger the holes for the fuel and temp gauges.Remove the black piece that is covering that has the holes in it like seen below.

See the dremel in the pic.Well this is what I used to bore out the holes until the rings fit.

Notice how I seem to make the hole higher up. There is not much room on the bottom part (it will hang off the cluster piece if too low) or on the sides (each top side has no more room and you can not get too close to the center or the center big ring and the side ring will hit).

The below pic is a picture of the rings in place. See how there is barely any room on the bottom of the rings and how the big and small rings pretty much touch.

Reassemble like how you took it apart.Here is what I found in my car as I went back out to put the cluster back into the car.I'm working hard and he's taking it easy.

After everything is re-installed the final pic. Trust me the picture does not do it justice. It looks great.

[post_title] => 5th-Generation Maxima - Install Chrome Gauge Rings [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-install-chrome-gauge-rings [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-11 16:26:35 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-11 23:26:35 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [36] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1292 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => I recently had to replace my remote, but I was unable to find anywhere on the Web the instructions for registering the remote unit with the car's computer. I eventually obtained the following instructions from an Infiniti Dealer and I have posted them below.

1.Get in & lock the doors
2.Insert the key into the ignition 6 times within 15 seconds
3.Hazard lights should flash
4.Put key back into the ignition & turn to Accessory
5.Press the master door lock (on drivers door arm rest) unlock/lock
6.Hit the lock button on the remote
7.Hazards should flash
8.Pull key out and open the drivers door and then close it
9.It should be set

These instructions worked perfectly for me. If you have more than one remote, I believe that you repeat step 6 for each remote before performing step 8. However, I have not tried registering more than one remote. [post_title] => Nissan Maxima - How To Program Remote [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-reprogram-remote [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:17:35 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:17:35 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [37] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1293 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => After doing some searching prior to doing my suspension install recently I found this information:

"SB103 for the fronts and SB108 for the rears. Select the front boots for 95' Mustang (SB103) and rear boots for 95' Miata (SB108)."

I thought that with all of the people looking to do suspension installs I would post what information I had gathered while assembling my parts for my install.

I went to advanced auto and purchased my parts. I did this out of convenience and because I hate waiting for mail-order parts. Advance Auto sells KYB struts for most cars (at least the GR2 model) so I thought that I would try there.

DO NOT BUY THE PARTS THAT THEY LIST AS OEM REPLACEMENTS FOR THE MAXIMA!

So here is the good information-

For the rears:
The advanced auto number was listed as a part 14108 for a company called TRW. The advanced item # is 18511582. According to Advanced auto the KYB ones are made by TRW and repackaged.

This weekend I compared it with the KYB part and they are identical right down to the stampings.

I got this part by asking them for a part for the 95 miata and they came up w/ the 14108 part number, which matched the KYB number (SB108) pretty closely.

For the fronts:
You can do the same with the mustang number (SB103). A friend gave me his KYB fronts and the # was SB103. The advanced auto computers can cross-reference those numbers. I checked with them on this and they have a direct-match part number listed in the computer system.

All 4 boots are about $15 each. They take about 2 days to get in.

Atricle By:phenryiv1 [post_title] => 4th-Gen Maxima Strut Boots Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-strut-boots [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:30:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:30:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [38] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1294 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => There have been lots of questions lately about this mod, so here are the facts as they pertain to 95-97. I am sure that they are the same for the 98-99.5, but my actual swap was in a 96. Also, these will work with an I30 or I30t, so long as you use a donor gauge set with the same odometer type (analog or digital, respectively).
How does this go?

There have been issues and questions raised regarding the feasibility of a face-swap (between compatible years) so that odometer readings can remain true and accurate.

In the past, it was asked (by me) about whether or not the faces can be switched or whether the whole gauge must be transferred.

It was answered as to the 97-99.5 Maximas, but I can tell you without question that this CAN be done on the 95-96 versions as well. Because I have an auto and the donor cluster was a manual, I chose to keep my existing cluster.
NOTE: the issue here is regarding the loss of the "O/D OFF" light that the Manual gauge cluster does not have.

What are my choices on how to do this swap and how extensive my efforts should be?

If you want OEM SE faces, buy an OEM SE cluster. Now we all know about legality and odometer/ mileage problems. You have 3 choices:

1. You can switch the whole assembly and get an odometer adjustment statement. Pros- EASY. Cons- Can lower resale value because an odometer adjustment statement will be attached to the title.

2. You can switch the whole assembly and NOT get an odometer adjustment statement. Pros- EASY. Cons- Illegal. If the mileage is LOWER, it is definitely illegal; if it is higher it is not illegal UNLESS you go back to the original cluster to sell the car. If you change the mileage on a car to a lower amount, it is odometer fraud, unless you get the aforementioned odometer disclosure statement.

3. (What I did) Switch the fuel gauge, temp gauge, and tachometer. Actually, you REUSE only the Speedo- everything else is from the new gauge cluster.
Take the odo/speedo gauge and remove it from the GLE/GXE cluster. You will be reusing the base from your GLE/GXE. Remove the needle and the face. Take the needle and the face off of the SE. CAREFULLY drill out the 2 screw holes that the GLE has but the SE lacks (see below and PM/email me for more info about this). Put the SE face on your old GLE/GXE gauge base. Reuse the SE needle. This will have your original odometer in your car, thus making it 100% legal.

So on to my actual swap:

The donor sent me the FULL gauges for tach, temp, and fuel (faces AND electronics), and for the speedo he sent only the face and the needle rest. He broke the needle doing the removal of the face, so I had to ask around. He was also cool enough to send me an SE needle to go on the face of the white SE gauge (my white GLE needle would not have shown up). My temp, tach, and fuel gauges have white/black needles, and the speedo has orange. Oddly enough, I LIKE this, b/c it makes the speedo easier to see at a glance. If I was a racer or had a manual, I would want this needle on the tach, but I have an auto so it works best on he speedo.

I swapped the WHOLE gauge (face and electronics) into my cluster base for the temp/tach/fuel (3 easy screws each), and did a face swap on the speedo/odo cluster. 2 extra screws, plus the needle swap, and it was done. Like the link above says, I had trouble with the needle sticking, but it was resolved. Read this thread to see problems encountered when the needles stuck after the gauge face swap.

While the gauges were out I switched the dash illumination bulbs (5 total) from white to red. These look great, are super deep, and light up just bright enough. Even if I was not doing the face-swap, these bulbs would have been worth the time. I wanted blue, but have used blue 194s before and cannot find ones that do not fade over time. After the mixed reviews on 194-based LEDs (1 or 4 LED versions), I have decided to stick w/ the reds. I actually looked for VW OEM blurple/indigo bulbs, but they are not sold to the public (they are soldered to the dash cluster).

Article by:phenryiv1 [post_title] => 4th-Generation Maxima - White Gauge Faces [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-white-gauges [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:29:59 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:29:59 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [39] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1295 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This write up is for a 2000-01 VI manifold swap on to 95-99 Maxima. There are many ways to do this swap so first I will number the ways I know how to do this and then go into detail on how to do it. There are a couple of different Upper manifolds you can get Fed spec. or Cali Spec the difference is one may not have the swirl valve control (don’t need it anyway). I believe (don’t quote me on this) that the 00 Fed Spec do not have the swirl valve control and all 01 (Fed and Cali) do not have the hole for the EGR guide tube. You may want to ask the People from the Junk yard this because you want to know this if you are going to keep the EGR or not. (note when I say 00 that means both 2000-2001 unless I specifically say otherwise for that part) 1) 00 Upper and Lower (Fed spec), 00 Fuel rail & injectors or 01 QX4 fuel rail & injectors (they are the same because I am using the QX4 fuel rail and inj.), 00 Throttle Body w/ 00 IACV, 00 EGR guide tube. (no adaptors needed for this) 2) 00 Upper and Lower (Fed or Cali), 00 Fuel R&Inj. Or 01 QX4 Fuel R&Inj, 00 TB w/ 00 IACV, and running no EGR. (Make a plate to cover the hole in the manifold) 3) 00 Upper and Lower, 00 Fuel R&Inj or 01 QX4 Fuel R&Inj, 00 TB w 4th gen IACV (need a adaptor plate made for the 4th gen IACV), and 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole) 4) 00 Upper and Lower, 00 Fuel R&Inj or 01 QX4 Fuel R&Inj, Pathfinder TB (need a adaptor plate made) 4th gen IACV (need a adaptor plate made), and 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole). 5) 00 Upper and Lower, 00 Fuel R&Inj or 01 QX4 Fuel R&Inj, 4th gen TB (need a adaptor plate made) 4th gen IACV (need a adaptor plate made), and 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole). 6) 00 Upper and 4th gen Lower, 4th gen Fuel R&Inj, 00 TB w/ 00 IACV, and 00 EGR guide Tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole). 7) 00 Upper and 4th gen lower, 4th gen Fuel R&Inj, 4th gen TB, 4th gen IACV, 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR. 8)0 8)0 00 Upper and 4th gen lower, 4th gen Fuel R&Inj, Pathfinder TB, 4th gen IACV, 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole). I think those are all the different ways that u can do the swap parts wise. In addition to those parts listed above you need to get: - a lot of new hoses (different sizes), some fittings and TEE’s. - hose clamps - new gaskets for the 00 lower, the upper should not need new gaskets since they are rubber (unless they are torn) -Bolts for the upper manifold (8 of them) unless it came with it, should be able to reuse the lower manifold's bolts. -New bolts for the VIAS back cover (metal cover) and the vacuum switch (just a suggestion because you might have to take it off later and the OEM screws strip easy). -Bolts for the 00 TB, if your going with the 4th gen or Pathy TB you will have to find out from the person you get the adapter plates from what bolts are needed. -Adapter Plates for 4th gen TB, 4th gen IACV, or Pathy TB -Cover Plates for EGR or 00 IACV (explain later) - JB weld the liquid type and JB weld Stick -New different PCV w/hoses Tools: Dremel or grinder - socket set (deep as well as regular) you will mainly use 14mm, 12mm, 11mm, 10mm so get those in deep socket. - Flat head, and Phillips head screw drivers I will post more when I get the pics and write out how to do it. PIC 1 PIC 2 PIC 3 PIC 4 -Prep. work, before you start installing you want to do a couple of things: -If you are using the 5th gen lower and it has the swirl valve, remove everything so it’s just like the 4th gen (See PIC 4). Once it’s removed use some the JB Weld Stick to cover the holes so there will be no leaks. I just plugged the two outside holes (see pic the holes are highlighted in red.) -Also you want to either fix or just prevent the VIAS from breaking by using the regular liquid JB Weld heres a link that explains what to do http://www.cardomain.com/ride/763858/5 . If you want to you can replace the bolts that hold the VIAS solenoid and the metal plate on the there side in place (see pic). I had to because one of the screws stripped on me so I went to Home Depot & bought a kit that removes stripped bolts or screws. -Fuel rail depending if you went with the 2000 Maxima fuel rail you will have to buy something like that (see pic 1 & 2 ), and if you used The 01 QX4 fuel rail you can do what I did (see pic 3). I took off the piece you see in the pic and used a grinder to cut off the extra metal tube and bent it in to place so it would reach the fuel line hose. It did not line up exactly with the hole so I just screwed in one side of the fitting and have no problems with it. I made it just like the 4th gen fuel set up wise (like the place of the FPR). - First go to the fuse box located on the dash of you car and remove the fuel pump fuse. Then you want to start your car and let it run until it dies, do this process until you can’t start you car at all. This will remove most of the fuel out of your fuel rail and injectors. - Next up remove your intake (note: I would label all of you hose either by marking it with something or with numbered stickers, and right it down in a note book what it means). - On the Throttle body disconnect the plugs from the TBS and the cables. Now get a towel or a container so you can catch the antifreeze when you remove the hoses on the bottom of the Throttle body. Once you have everything disconnected from the TB remove the (12mm) bolts in the throttle body. - Start disconnecting all three coil packs, IACV plugs, and other wires to clear up space when removing the upper manifold. - After you have the TB off start removing all hoses and components that are on the upper intake manifold and labeling them. When you have everything off the upper manifold, begin removing the bolts in the front of the upper manifold (note: there are 2 bolts on the back of the upper manifold that you will have to remove). Remove the ERG guide as well. - For those that are using 4th gen fuel rail and 4th gen lower manifold skip to preparing engine for upper manifold. If you using the 5th gen parts read on - Once the upper manifold is remove began removing the fuel rail, I remove the fuel hoses first (I placed a towel around the hose from the fuel filter to the fuel rail so gas would not spill onto the engine). Then remove the bolts for both the fuel rail and lower manifold. - Once you have removed the lower 4th gen manifold you can now place the 5th gen lower manifold and bolt it up. - Then you can put then new fuel rail on the lower (if you are using the 2001 QX4 one or to of the holes will not line up, like mines, but it will still be good). The next thing you don’t have to do I just did: you’ll need the rubber washers that came of your old fuel injectors place them around each of your new injectors. I did this because there was a gap from the lower manifold to the fuel injectors. After you bolt the fuel rail down it’s time to cut the old 4th gen fuel injector connectors off and solder them (or connect them anyway you want to) to the 5th gen connectors. Most people don’t like cutting wires but it’s not hard. Also you need to grind the fuel rail (I bolted them down onto the lower manifold because it was the easiest location for me.) Now get some of the new hoses that you should have purchased and connect them from the fuel filter to fuel rail and fuel rail to fuel filter. Preparing the engine for the upper manifold - Now that the lower manifold and fuel rail are on, cover up the holes in the lower manifold so nothing can get inside. Remove the PCV out of your valve cover because it will not let the upper manifold sit properly on the lower manifold (later I will tell you what I did for this). - For the next part you will need you grinder or dremel. You will need to grind down the coil pack mounting bosses BUT ONLY THE FRONT MOUNTING BOSSES#3 AND #5( SEE PIC ABOVE). #3 and #5 are the ones to the right of you if you are standing in-front of the car looking at the engine. Grind down as much as you need to just keep putting the upper manifold on to check for clearance. Once you are done clean up the mess you made grinding down the bosses. - Next up is the PCV, you should have bought a new PCV valve one that would allow you to connect to some hoses. The hose’s outside diameter should be ½ inch for it to fit in the valve case hole tight and cut it to be about 6-8 inches long. You might have to lubricate the hose for it to slide in (at least that’s what my girl keeps telling me j/k lol). - Note this is only for people that are keeping the EGR and 5th gen IACV: Article By:sdot82 [post_title] => 4th-Generation Maxima: How to Install a 2000 VI Manifold [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 4th-gen-maxima-2000-vi-manifold-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-11 16:35:02 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-11 23:35:02 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [40] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1296 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => The following directions can be utilized in the installation of an Addco RSB onto a 5th Generation (2000-2003) Maxima. Installation onto a 4th generation (1995-1999) should be similar. It is recommended that two people perform the installation, but, one person could accomplish the task. Please view pictures with steps for additional detailed information.

Step 1. Using either a lift, car jacks or ramps, lift car for easy access. Do not rely on the factory tire jack nor a pneumatic jack. Make sure vehicle is secure prior to installation.

Step 2. Open packages that came with the Addco RSB and arrange parts. If the vehicle is a 5th generation Maxima, two new side side U-bolts are included with the kit since the origional U-Bolts will not fit the 5th generations trailing arms. You should have the following with the kit:
-4ea bushings (with hardware)
-2ea mid-section brackets (Large "U" brackets)
-2ea mid-section bushings
-2ea mid-section base plates
-2ea side U-Bolts (4ea if 5th gen kit)
-2ea side base plates (base plates with slots)
-8ea washers
-8ea locknuts

Step 3. Remove the bushings from their mounting hardware. Install the four bushings by sliding them onto the bar or by opening them via the slit in each and work them onto the bar. Two bushings should be on the back section (flat section up) and two should be near each end of the bar (flat section facing outward). Press the bushing hardware back onto the bushings.

Step 4. Under the vehicle, install the rear of the bar first. Hook a mid-section bracket over the axle. Slip a mid-section base plate onto the bracket and, holding up the RSB, slide the barcket through the bushing hardware. Use one washer and one locknut for each bolt. Position the bracket appx 4.5-5" in from the curve of the RSB on each side. Do not tighten at this time. Repeat for the other side.

Step 5. On each side, following similar steps as in step 4, install the side brackets onto the trailing arms. On 5th Gens, the U-Bolts should be placed behind the brake lines. Initially, install the brackets 1" in from the end of the bar.

Step 6. Tighten locknuts down to 25ft lbs of torque. If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten the locknuts until the bushing hardware bends into the base plates.

Step 7. Road test the vehicle.

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Adjusting Sway Bar: The Addco RSB may be adjusted to different rates by sliding the side bracket assembly further back on the bar. Sliding the assembly back increases the effect of the sway bar.

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Problem

Fixed Clunks: If you having problems with clunks over large bumps, check your installation and make sure all hardware is secure and torqued appropriately. If this is not the problem, make sure the passenger side bracket on the axle is far enough in to avoid hitting the panhard bar. If this is the case, loosen and adjust the bracket further in to avoid the panhard bar. If this is not acceptable, you can grind down the corner of the braket to add additional clearance to avoid the bar mount.

The Problem:

The Fix:

Article by:audtatious [post_title] => Maxima Rear Sway Bar Install [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-sway-bar-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:22:50 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:22:50 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [41] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1298 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => The following directions have been compiled to assist in the installation of an Injen intake onto a '02-03 Maxima. The directions should also work with '00-01 Maximas as well. Tools needed: 10mm socket + ratchet, ratchet extension, 10mm wrench, flat-head and phillips head screwdriver, Pliars -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parts: The injen intake should consist of the following parts: Upper tube, lower tube, billet MAF adapter, 16" breather hose, cone filter w/ clamp, 2ea 3" hoses, 1ea 3.25" hose, 6 clamps, 4ea 10mmx16 bolts, 1ea 10mmx25 bolt w/washer. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Pre-Installation: The installation of the intake requires the factory intake be removed all the way to the throttle body. The air inlet, air box + MAF, and breather hose will be replaced. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 1: Remove the air inlet pipe by removing the two plastic screws with a Phillips head screwdriver. The whole air inlet should simply come right off. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 2: Remove the five 10mm bolts that hold the airbox in place. Disconnect the MAF and disconnect the "quick ties" from the from the metal air box bracket and move the cable out of the way. Remove the breather hose by squeezing the hose clamp with pliers. Finally, using a flat-head screwdriver, loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body. The whole intake should come out at this time utilizing a little patience. See the image for step 3 to see the proper hose clamp to loosen at the throttle body. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 3: The image to the left shows the complete factory airbox including the throttle body hose clamp not shown in step 2. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the metal bracket to the air box. Put aside as this will be utilized later. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 4: Remove the MAF from the airbox by loosening the clamp holding the rear-section and removing this section. Remove the four 10mm bolts. From this step forward, be careful with the MAF as touching the inside may cause failure. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 5: Install the billet MAF adapter to the MAF utilizing the 4 10mmx116 bolts. Install the 3.25" hose and two clamps to the other side of the MAF. Not Shown: Install 3" hose and two clamps onto the billet MAF adapter. Finally, install the last 3" hose and two remaining clamps onto the throttle body. Installing the 3" and 3.25" hoses takes patience. Again, be careful of the MAF when installing the hoses and billet adapter onto this section. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 6: Connect the Upper Pipe to the MAF via the 3.25" hose side as shown in the image to the left. Slide the other end of the Upper Pipe into the 3" hose that has been installed onto the throttle body. Install the 16" breather hose onto the Upper Pipe and onto the proper engine outlet. Only tighten the clamps enough to hold this section together as this will allow movement for future steps. At this time, install the filter onto the lower pipe and tighten the filter clamp as this part will not need to be adjusted. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 7: Slide the filter end of the Lower Pipe down in front of the radiator. For proper location, slide it in at an angle towards the battery. This will take some patience since the transmission linkage can hang it up somewhat. Once "in place", the pipe should somewhat line up with the upper intake section. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 8: Once the lower section is in place, it should be mounted utilizing the 10mm hole slightly above and back of the radiator pipe. On vehicles with 6sp manual transmissions, there should be nothing utilizing this hole and the 10mmx25 bolt and washer should be utilized to mount the lower pipe utilizing some fancy finger work and the 10mm wrench. On vehicles with automatic transmissions, the transmission fluid pipe bracket is utilizing this mount point. For automatics, remove the 10mm bolt, bend the fluid tube slightly out of the way, position the lower tube mount behind the fluid pipe bracket, then install the 10mmx25 bolt and washer as mentioned above to mount both the lower pipe and fluid pipe bracket. This may require bending out the lower pipe bracket somewhat to allow adequate clearance for the fluid pipe. Once everything is mounted, take this time to tighten down all clamps. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 9: Remount the Air Box metal bracket utilizing the 2 original 10mm bolts. On the MAF cable, carefully slide the "Quick Tie" back 3-4" and remount it on the metal bracket. Since the MAF is further away, I personally only utilized the one "Quick Tie" to hold the MAF cable in place. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Final: Crank the vehicle and enjoy!!!! Article by:audtatious [post_title] => 5th-Generation Maxima Injen Intake Installation [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 5th-generatio-maxima-injen-intake-installation [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 20:56:12 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 03:56:12 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [42] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1299 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => The following information was researched via multiple Maxima FSM's.

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Base Headunit plug diagram

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Bose Headunit plug diagram

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Bose amp plug diagram

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Speaker Wiring Chart (Both Bose and Non-Bose)

Information provided by:audtatious [post_title] => 5th-Generation Maxima: Car Audio Wiring Codes [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 5th-maxima-audio-wiring-codes [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:56:35 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:56:35 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [43] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1300 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => The following information was researched via multiple Maxima FSM's.For the 4th-gen Maxima, there were numerous options for the stereos, so make sure you are looking at the correct one.

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Wire Color Chart

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1995 - 1999 diagram for 4-speaker systems

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1995 Bose diagram

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1996 - 1999 Bose diagram

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1996 Non-Bose 6 Speaker diagram

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1997 - 1999 Non-Bose Wiring Diagram

Information Provided By:audtatious [post_title] => Technical Articles: 4th-Gen Maxima:Car Audio Wiring Codes [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 4th-maxima-audio-wiring-codes [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:57:22 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:57:22 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [44] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1301 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How To Replace CV Boots:

(Applies to most Nissans except the Quest)

The simple gist of it: Put the front end of the car up on jack stands. Remove the left front wheel. Remove the retainer pin for the center hub nut. Remove the center hub nut (BIG breaker bar and 32 or 36 mm socket, car in park, 2nd person standing on the brake pedal). The 2 bolts that hold the strut to the spindle need to be removed. The ABS cable running around behind the strut needs to be unattached from the strut (so you dont break your ABS wires). The clip holding the brake line to the strut removed and the brake line unattached from the strut (neither of those 2 items need to be disconnected from their ends,only detached from the strut before removing the 2 bolts in the strut). Pry the spindle out of the strut mount.

Now, the whole brake rotor and spindle should move pretty freely. Slip the brake hose under the strut end to get it out of the way. Screw the large hub nut on until its outer edge is flush with the end of the threads. Hit it with a hammer (preferably deadblow with rubber head or plastic mallet) until it slides in. Rotate your steering wheel (left for the right axle and right for the left axle). Pull the axle the remainder of the way out of the spindle as you should be able to move the spindle around pretty easy. You would have had to have completed all that to do the axle as well.

Now, here's how to get the joint off the shaft: Rotate your axle so the clamp that holds the boot on the shaft has its retainer pointing up. Both the inner clamp and outter clamps should have their retainers up. That is the trick to making this job a whole "hell of alot" easier. If it is still a factory axel, those clamps signify how the retainer clip on the axle is setting. It should be setting with its split up too. Now, make sure the boot is split all the way around so it will seperate in half. If it's not, help it split the rest of the way. Now, take your hub nut and thread it back onto the shaft and grab the end with your hand (place your hand between the nut and the face of the CV joint for better grip). Smack the lip of the cv joint, boot side, with the boot half still on it till it pops off. Remove the boot pieces from the axel and the joint.

Wipe the grease off the axel and slide the small clamp onto the axel. The new CV boot will need to be stretched a bit to get it on. Make sure the axel retainer clip has its gap toward the top at all times and dont let it catch the boot and get half cocked on the shaft. If it becomes distorted, it could make getting the cv joint back on really miserable. That clip is the worst part of this job and can make or break ya, so be sure it always will participate with what you are doing. Always have the gap in the clip up. Once you have the boot on the axel clamp it down in its original location. Repack your CV joint with the grease supplied with it. Now quick retainer clip check. Set up your CV joint on the axel and slide it on until it butts up against the clip. Make sure it's on the axel straight. Your nut should still be on the joint at this point. Grab the joint in the same place while holding it with some pressure against the retainer clip. Smack it with the deadblow hammer or use a light hit with the sledge and it should pop on. You should not have to beat it on. If, after a couple of good hits, it hasn't just popped on, you will need to pull it back off and see if the retainer clip rolled up onto the shaft and fix it. This whole process, without problems, should take about an hour with hand tools or 45 minutes with power tools.

I strongly recommend the factory boot too. It comes with a tube of grease to repack the CV joint. Also, the factory CV boot is a better quality then the aftermarket ones. This should not be done if the grease has mostly escaped and the remaining grease is all dried out. That would mean the bearing has suffered wear. It may not be clicking at the time but it may start after doing the boot.

Information provided by:NISTECH [post_title] => Nissan CV Boot Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => replace-cv-boot [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 14:41:34 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 21:41:34 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [45] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1302 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How To Clean IAC valve: Tools needed: - 10 and 12 mm sockets - 3 inch socket extension - universal joint (swivel pivot socket thing) - 12-inch ratchet (a short ratchet may not work - need something to apply a lot of torque to loosen the bolts) - Phillip's screwdriver - rag - throttle body cleaner 1. Unplug the 4 connectors from the IAC assembly. Undo the hose that connects the IAC to the intake assembly. 2. The metal bracket holding up the gray-colored connector is blocking one of the IAC mounting bolts. Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt that holds the metal bracket. The bolt is just below the purple connector - you have to twist your head and crane your neck around to see the bolt. 3. Remove the 3 mounting bolts using the 12mm socket. The lowest bolt may require the Universal joint. 4. Pull out your IAC valve and clean it w/throttle body cleaner, rag, and old toothbrush. You may even want to separate the plastic valve to clean it more thoroughly. Use a philip's head screwdriver, but make sure it is a snug fight. It's on there tight and if you don't have a good fitting screwdriver, you could ruin the screw head. Re installation is just the reverse of these steps. It may be easier access to the IAC if you remove the whole air intake assembly, but it's not necessary. Article by:Cullenj76 [post_title] => Cleaning Idle Air Control Valve [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => cleaning-idle-air-control-valve [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:28:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:28:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [46] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1303 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Testing the Knock Sensor (KS): - The KS MUST be checked with a digital ohmmeter. Analog ohmmeters may cause damage to vehicle. 1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold. Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley. That is the KS sub-harness. 2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121. It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car. 3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms. More on the dreaded KS: Knock Sensor Diagnosis, Test and Installation Once and for all, a bad knock sensor WILL NOT trip the check engine light. You must extract the codes from the ECU to determine if your sensor is (potentially) bad (code 0304). Some other hints as to a bad KS: poor acceleration below 3000 RPM (I was getting tired of being left behind at stoplights by Honda Civics), and reduced gas mileage. If you don’t already own a Haynes or Chilton manual, get one. In addition to telling you how to extract the codes and locate the KS, there is a wealth of useful information for the do-it yourselfer. I am very cheap, but this an area well worth spending the $20 or so (I bought mine off of EBAY for $10 shipped). The ECU is located behind the center console on the drivers side. It is accessible by removing the plastic cover panel right next to the gas pedal. The ECU is a metal box with a screw on the side covered by a piece of tape. Peal back the tape to get at the screw. With the ignition in the “On” position, turn the screw all the way clockwise, hold for at least 2 seconds, turn it all the way counterclockwise. Your CEL will now start flashing out any codes stored in the ECU. The codes are two digit numbers. The first number is signaled by long flashes, there will be a two second pause, and the second number will be indicated by a series of short flashes. Long-long-long-pause-short-short-short-short = 0304 (KS fault). There may be more than 1 code in the ECU, they will be flashed out sequentially and the whole sequence will repeat. To clear the codes from the ECU, follow this sequence: clockwise, hold, counterclockwise, hold, clockwise, hold, counterclockwise. A good KS will measure ~550 k-Ohm resistance between the left pin of the KS and ground. You can check the resistance without removing the KS by following the harness to the connector. The connector has two pins, only one of them hooks up to the KS, so try them both. The act of whacking on the KS with your wrench can (temporarily) start it working again, so checking the KS once you removed it may not give you the bad reading you suspect. Hint: the connector is not the green one closest to the KS that gets in the way of sticking your hand into the engine cavity (1995-1996 models – most likely 1995-1999). The correct connector is a few inches closer to the front of the car. A heat shielded wire leads into the bottom of it and there are two wires coming out the top, one clear and one black. Low cost knock sensor sources: The dealer will charge you $160 or so for the sensor. I purchased a Nissan OEM sensor off of EBAY for $90 shipped. I have seen them for as little as $80 and routinely for $100-$110. Search for both “Maxima knock” and “Nissan knock” to make sure you get all the possible matches. You can get a Bosch sensors for $115 shipped from http://www.nissanpartstore.com....html Article Provide by:Cullenj76 [post_title] => 4th-Gen Maxima Knock Sensor Testing [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-knock-sensor-4g [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-02-11 21:52:18 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-02-12 04:52:18 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [47] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1304 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How To change Motor Mounts:

Here are the tools it takes to complete the job:

1) floor jack
2) two 17mm short sockets
3) ~2.5' of 1/2" extensions
4) 1/2" rachet
5) 18" 1/2" breaker bar
6) jack stands
7) 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet
8) "Bottle" jack
9) torque wrench
10) penetrating oil (preferably PB blaster)
11) anti-seize

Installing new engine mounts:

1) Jack the car up, secure with jack stands, and remove the driver's side wheel

2) spray penetrating oil on the bolts and nuts that connect the mount to the engine

3) Using the breaker bar, 2.5' of extension, and a 17mm socket, feed everything through the driver's side wheel well to the rear engine mount bolt and loosen the bolt. This takes some odd leverage and if you're not a decently strong guy, you might be screwed. Also, the amount of extension greatly reduces you're the torque you can generate. You also have to careful and keep the socket on the bolt because the last thing you want to do is strip the head off the bolt. Once the bolt breaks loose, just loosen it, but don't remove. On the rear mount, there is only a bolt. The nut is welded to the "ear" of mount that's connected to the engine block.

4) Using the 10mm socket, remove the two bolts that attach the splash guard to the cross member. Pull the guards down out of the way best you can. They don't need to be removed.

5) Go to the front mount. Using the breaker with a 17mm socket and a rachet with a 17mm socket, break the bolt and nut loose that attaches the mount to the engine. Again, this takes some serious muscle because the
leverage is odd and the bolt is on there with ~95 ft/lbs. Again, just loosen this bolt.

6) Take a piece of 2X4 wood and the bottle jack and place the wood between the bottle jack and transmission casing. Jack the tranny up ~1/4". What you are doing is supporting the engine and tranny.

7) Using the breaker bar and a 17mm socket, remove the two front and rear chassis to cross member bolts. Keep the front bolts separate from the rear bolts BECAUSE THEY ARE DIFFERENT! Something that caught my attention was that these bolts, both front and rear, were only on with about 30 ft/lbs of torque. My Chilton's and FSM both said these bolts are suppose to be torqued to 95 ft/lbs. I'm a bit perplexed at why they were so loose.

8) Once the cross member to chassis bolts are out, wiggle out the mount to engine bolts and nuts, and drop the cross member. It will weigh about ~25lbs.

9) With 17mm sockets on both the breaker bar and rachet, remove the bolts and nuts that connect the mounts to the cross member. There are four of them (two for each mount). Again, leverage of tough and those suckers are torqued to 95 ft/lbs.

10) Install the new mounts to the cross member. Put some anti-seize on the nuts and torque the rear mount bolts/nuts to 75-95 ft/lbs. The reason you use anti-seize is to help the threads stay lubricated and you also get a more accurate torque reading. On the front mount just insert the FRONT bolt into the mount and put the nut (ant-seize it) on finger tight (ie only one of the two bolts on the front mount is attached to the cross member at this time).

11) Lift the cross member into place and slide the rear mount to engine bolt into place and tighten to ~40 ft/lbs.

12) Install the two rear cross member to chassis bolts so that they are slightly tight (~20 ft/lbs, anti-seize them).

13) Slide the front mount to engine bolt into place and finger tightening the nut (anti-seize it).

14) Install the two front cross member to chassis bolts so that they are slightly tight (~20 ft/lbs, anti-seize them).

15) Now the fun part. If your car was like mine, you'll notice that you will not be able to install that front mount to cross member bolt/nut (step 10) because the holes on the mount and cross member don't line up perfectly. Believe me, I tried every different way under the sun to make this work and what I did was the only option on my car. I removed the bottle jack from the tranny (tranny and engine are fully supported by the mounts now) and situated the bottle jack so that it was able to jack up the driver's side lower "ear" of the mount. I slowly jacked up and the mount and cross member holes lined up on that side. The bolt slide through, but now the other side the still wasn't completely lined up and bolt couldn't fully slide through. So I then took my floor jack and used it on the passenger side lower "ear" on the mount. With just some slight jacking, the holes lined up and the bolt slide through. I lowered the jacks and installed the nut (anti-seize it).

I have heard of guys having to enlarge the mount's holes to compensate for this lining up problem. To me, it wasn't an option. I was going to make it work the right way using wrong way methods.

16) Now all the bolts/nuts were in place and I began torquing all of them to ~77-95 ft/lbs as called for in the FSM. Seeing that the torque numbers are so high, it appears Nissan thinks that these bolts are very important. I
suggest torquing them right.

17) I reinstalled the 10mm splash guard bolts, put the tire back on, and lowered the car.

18) I started her and took her on a test drive and everything seemed fine. There was a little less vibration and 50% of the drivetrain "slop" was gone. The 7-year old mounts I removed weren't torn, but they were a bit softer than the OEM replacements I installed.

Article Provided By:Cullenj76
[post_title] => 4th-Gen Maxima: Replacing Motor Mounts [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-motor-mounts-4g [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:27:21 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:27:21 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [48] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1305 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Replacing Maxima O2 Sensors

Upstream O2 sensors:

Necessary tools:
*3/8" drive ratchet
*22mm O2 sensor removal ratchet (rent it from Autozone for free)
*OEM upstream O2 sensor(s)
*Anti-seize
*PB Blaster (or WD40)
*Scissors

1. Put the front end of the car on ramps or jackstands

2. Spray the O2 sensors with PB blaster (or other lubricant) to make removal easier; wait ten minutes.

3. Using the O2 sensor ratchet attachment, loosen the current O2 sensors that are installed in the "Y" portion of the Y-pipe

4. Trace the sensor harness up to the engine bay and unplug it. One will be close to the cabin, to the left of the spark plugs; the other will be clipped by the radiator, towards the front of the car

5. Cut the plastic things holding the harness; there will be multiple ones

6. Completely unscrew the O2 sensors

7. Plug in the new sensors to the now-empty connectors that the old sensors were attached to

8. Dangle the sensor from the engine bay to the underbody of the car, taking care to do it SLOWLY so you don't damage the sensor

9. Put a little anti-seize on the threads of the sensors (if there isn’t any already)

10. Screw 'em in and you're done.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Downstream O2 sensor:

Necessary tools:
*12mm wrench
*OEM downstream O2 sensor
*Anti-seize
*PB Blaster (or WD40)
*Scissors

1. Put the rear end of the car on ramps or jackstands

2. Locate the downstream O2 sensor; it is in rear-half the catalytic converter, on the driver’s side (middle of the car is where you should be looking)

3. Spray the sensor with PB Blaster or WD40

4. Trace the harness to the underbody of the car

5. Pull on the harness until the rubber seal pops free

6. Disconnect the old sensor from the harness

7. Apply anti-seize to the new O2 sensor (if it doesn’t already have some); take care not to get the compound on the sensor head

8. Screw in the sensor

9. Connect the new sensor to the harness

10. Jam the excess wiring back into the hole and close it up with the rubber seal

11. Using one of the supplied zip ties, secure any slack wiring.

Article Provided By:Cullenj76 [post_title] => Nissan Maxima O2 Sensor Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-replacing-o2-sensor [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:23:46 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:23:46 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [49] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1306 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How to reset SRS(air bag) light:

Open the driver's door. Note the rubber covered button located low on the B pillar, a button which is pressed by the door when the door is closed. This is the Driver's Door Switch (DDS).

Turn the ignition from OFF to ON. Press the DDS at least 5 times within 7 seconds after turning the ignition switch ON. Turn the ignition OFF. Close the driver's door. Start the engine.

If the airbag warning lamp is still on (or still flashing), there is a fault in the Supplemental Restraint System which must be diagnosed and repaired. This is a job for your local friendly Nissan dealer.

Information Provided By:Cullenj76
[post_title] => Reset SRS Airbag Light on a Nissan Maxima [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-airbag-light [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:12:41 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:12:41 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [50] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1307 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => 5th Generation Maxima Head Unit Removal

Step 1: Open the ash tray and remove the tray/liner. Below you will see a phillips head screw. Remove the screw and set aside

Step 2: Remove the upper air vents by prying from the bottom-right corner. The vents will not want to come out, so some force is needed. Be careful not to gouge the plastic and not to nick the dash. If the dash gets somewhat pushed in while removing the vents, that should be OK as it will go back to normal. Just be careful.

Step 3: Remove the trim around the shifter. Start at the back and gently pry it up. Again, be careful not to gouge the plastic nor scratch the finish. Once released you may disconnect the wires and set it aside or you can simply drape it off to the left and let it hang.

Step 4: As pointed out in the picture to the left, there are four phillips screws holding the Head Unit in position. Remove these four screws. At this point, the Head Unit may be removed and the connectors to it and the environmental controls disconnected. It should be noted that the Head Unit and environmental controls are connected together via the bracket. To remove the Head Unit from the bracket, you will need to remove four more phillips screws. These screws are TIGHT! I actually broke three phillips bits since I had to use a 1/4" ratchet to get enough power to break them loose. So, word to the wise, make sure you use a phillips bit that is sized properly or you can strip these out.

Additional: Before removing the Head Unit, it is wise to eject all CDs first. I did not and accidently flipped the unit upside-down. This caused the internal CD changer to get skewed and fail.

Article By:audtatious
[post_title] => 5th-Generation Maxima: Remove Stereo [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-remove-headunit [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 13:32:36 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 20:32:36 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [51] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1308 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Special thanks for this write up goes to Fezzik (David Honey).
Posted with permission from the author.

Here is what the rear coilover that I tested looked like compared to the stock rear suspension. These are still being tested and are not offered yet.

You will first want to measure the car’s wheel gap right now and think of how much u want to lower it by.Be sure to write all your numbers down.

1.)To remove the stock suspension; first remove the interior sideliner in the trunk.

2.)Jack up the car from the rear and make sure you use jack stands. Then release the jack but barely keep the jack off the rear axle.

3.)Remove the wheels.

4.)Undo the bolt on the bottom of the stock suspension.

5.)Remove the bolts at the top. There are two of them.Have someone catch the spring and strut when you undo these bolts.

1st Bolt

2nd Bolt

6.) Now measure the total length of the stock strut and spring. A good way to measure is from the bottom of the perch (the big black thing at the top of the stock strut assembly) to the center of the hole for the lower attachment. See how it’s done on this coilover.

7.)Now disassemble the stock strut and spring. You will need a spring compressor for this job.You may want to hit the bolt at the top of the strut with an impact to loosen it a bit, but don’t remove.

8.) When you have the spring compressed you can remove the bolt at the top of the strut and the top assembly will come off and then the spring.The only thing you want to keep from the stock strut assembly is the big black perch, the bump stop below it and the thick rubber washer above it. This will be used on the coilover.

9.)Now to the coilover. The coilover will come all fairly loose. Take all the stuff off like the spring and dust boot ect. The upper metal washer and bolt will be used again as the very top pieces.You will see a bumpstop here:

10.)Now make sure there is a washer inside the black dustboot. Put this over the assembly, then the spring and then the bumpstop from the stock strut assembly on top.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The bumpstop you see in these pictures has not been cut in half. You will need to do this. This bumpstop is made to fit into the perch. If you look the perch underside is designed to the outline of this bumpstop. Look lower for more info.

Below is a picture of the bumpstop cut in half.

11.) Now there is a gold ring with a rubber gasket on it. This goes on the stock perch like so:

12.) This in turn goes on top of the coilover:

13.) And then install the upper bushing and then metal washer and bolt.

14.)Now if you have an impact, try to impact the top bolt tight. There should be roughly 10 threads sticking out. Look below for a picture of this.Also the bolt is a nylon lock. Mine was tough as heck to tighten. We had to actually cut away some of the nylon away to get the bolt on and then we used locktite.

15.)Ok here is the coilover all put together

Note how the very top bolt has no threads out. This is because the bumpstop was not cut in half. If you cut the bumpstop in half then you will have 10 threads showing through like so:

(This is just to show how much threads are sticking out. Don’t bolt up just yet. Measurements still need to be done) (Also make sure flat edge is facing this way)

IMPORTANT NOTE ON INSTALLING COILOVER:When you install the coilover, back install it just the opposite of when you removed the stock strut assembly except for two things. First:If you look down the coilover from the top, you will see that the strut sticking out of the bolt is not exactly round. It has a flat part. Make sure that flat part is facing toward the inside of the trunk and not away.Look at the picture above with the note.Second:The lower part of the strut which you bolt to the car is not perfectly flush on both sides. It will stick out a lot on one side.There is only two ways this part can go into the mounting area.THE PART THAT STICKS OUT MUST STICK OUT AWAY FROM THE CAR. (AWAY FROM THE CENTER OF THE CAR) If not this will rub against the metal brackets that the strut goes in and damage the coilover.

16.)(See below for bolt numbering) Now the coilover is assembled the spring tension needs to be set.You will need to tighten the spring until its just snug. I put it under a little tension but not much.This is done by tightening up Bolt #1 until the spring is under a small amount of tension. (Usually until you can not turn the spring in the coilover.)Tighten up Bolt #2 up to Bolt #1. Make sure this is nice and tight.

17a.)Ok now you need to start doing some measurements.I started out by making the length of the coilover the same as my stock strut assembly. Do this for both sides by turning the lower part of the coilover seen below Bolt #3 until length is right.Install the coilover and wheels. Lower the car.I did two measurements. From the fender well to the top of the rim and from the fender well to the center of the rim.

17b.)Now see how much you want more wheel gap you want to take out or add and remember this.Jack the car back up take off each wheel.I was able to make changes by taking apart the lower coilover only and able to leave the top part in place.Turn the lower part of the coilover until you have reached the right measurement. Install the lower part, and tighten up Bolt#3.Make sure both sides are equal. If not just adjust one side to match the other by adjusting the lower part of the coilover only.

Installing the front coilover:When installing the front coilover it’s easy after you have done the front. There is no disassembly or adding to the coilover.Just take out the front stock strut assembly. Be careful with all the lines and cables attached to the front strut assembly. Then measure it in a similar fashion to the rear.On the coilover make sure the spring is barely in tension like in the rear. Turn the lower coilover to match the length of the stock strut. Install the coilover, lower the car, and see how much wheel gap u want to take out or add. Jack the car up and take the coilover off and make the appropriate adjustments to the lower part of the coilover by turning it. When u have desired height, then tighten everything up. Here's the tricky part. U have to watch out for the lines and cables. This coilover does not have any brackets to hold these. What I did was zip tie them to good structures. But you need someone in the car turning the wheel right and left to make sure it won’t pull these cables and lines.If all is well fasten them down. Drop the car and go get it aligned.You really do not need camber plates. 2002 maxima I know have tons of camber to play with. I dropped my front end 2” and does not need any camber plates.If someone tells you that you need them maybe get second opinion. This is what happened to me. I took it to pep boys and they said I would need camber plates. I took it to a specialty shop in alignment and they got it done is 10 mins.

Credits

Written by David Honey aka Fezzik

Special Thanks goes out to Cullen Jones and Scott Keller.
Another special thanks goes to Reese for the help with the bump stop issue and the picture. [post_title] => 5th-Gen Maxima Coilover Installation [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-coilovers [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-11 16:42:30 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-11 23:42:30 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [52] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1309 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => a) Headlight Haze

This is a known problem on '02-'03 Maximas. It seems as though the headlight cover has a haze on the inside of it. The cover is a sealed cover and is extremely difficult to remove.If you do open it up at some point, a plastic polish should be able to remove the haze.

b) Anniversary Edition Door Sills

These are prone to scratching if you use too harsh a metal polish on them. You might want to consider something like Mother's or Nevr-Dull or Luster Lace.

c) Fuel Filler Door

Nissan, in its infinite wisdom , did not put a splash guard for the fuel filler line in the 5th Gen Maximas. As a result, the fuel door area can accumulate a lot of dirt. If you are washing one of these cars, it would be a good idea to wash this area to get rid of any accumulated dirt. For 2000-2001 model years, there is a TSB for it. For 2002-2003, we have to live with cleaning the crud as the parts for the '00-'01 TSB do not fit ours.

Another thing about the 5th Gen Maxima is the six spoke SE Rims.
The design of those rims lends itself to easier cleaning of some parts behind the rim face. I use an old sheepswool mitt to go behind there and clean those areas I can access with my hand.

The tightest area is around the brake caliper and using a flexible brush to get behind the wheel in that spot is a good idea.Not using a brush can result in lacerations due to sharp metal projections.

Since these wheels are clearcoated, claying them is a very good idea to remove brake dust and contaminants. Also, putting a glaze like Meguiar's #20 or Klasse Sealant Glaze adds a leverl of protection against brake dust.

The seven spoke GLE rims will require a flexible brush since the spaces are tighter (unless you have small hands). These rims are aluminum but are also clearcoated like the SE rims.

Tips provided by:Prinz [post_title] => 5th-Gen Maxima Detailing Tips [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-detailing-tips [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:34:16 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:34:16 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [53] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1310 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Turbocharging the B15 Sentra (SR20DE+T) By: nametakennow There are a number of ways to go about this, including engine swaps, aftermarket kits, and piece-together rigs. I went with the last of that set. Before: After: One of the most infuriating portions of my turbo quest has been figuring out what parts I need/have. Thus, as an addition to my NA->Turbo SR DIY, I figure a more organized parts list would be a good idea. So, this is that list, divided into sections. I'm listing what is absolutely necessary to make the car run and be drivable, then the recommended list is to make it perform to its full potential. Intake: Filter - Any will do. Remember, this air is going through your turbo into your engine, keep that in mind. MAF - Stock works unless you're running lots of boost, then a Z32 MAF is a good bet. Intake tube - This should include a recirc point for the BOV and a line for the valve cover breather. Turbo - Your choice, bigger turbos mean more air, which means more fuel and possibly more management work. For those of you running off of Nissan Parts Bin kits, keep in mind that Bluebird and Avenir T25s are different, with Avenirs having ball-bearings and a higher wastegate actuator setting stock (9psi instead of 7). Turbo out pipe - Personally, I like how mine comes down off the turbo and towards the passenger side for my routing. I was even able to keep the AC so as to keep the ladies happy. However, I see lots of setups where it comes up and over the exhaust manifold, then down and around the front. Your choice. Intercooler piping - Your size should match your turbo/boost level. For low boost applications, 2.25in will keep boost response up and leave a little room for more, but for those of you who like big turbos, invest in bigger piping. I run 2.5in for a 10psi T25 and get great response, for reference. There are piping kits available. Another option is to buy some stainless steel or aluminum exhaust piping with several 90* bends, a 45* or a few if needed, and some straight pipe. Intercooler - This should also match your turbo. Try to match the in/out size to the IC piping you're running. Get a core that matches your hp goals. Most are advertised with the power they can support. Also keep in mind that huge ICs can cause pressure drop and cover up your radiator, increasing engine temps. FMICs are a good bet, but TMICs are more stealthy, though prone to heatsoak. A sidemount would be tough to fit. BOV - Get whatever you want. If you get a Nissan one with your setup, you might as well keep it. It's noisy enough to give you a smirk on shifts, but quiet enough to keep the sleeper effect somewhat plausible (as if an intercooler grinning under the bumper doesn't advertise what's up ...). This is all a matter of personal taste, they all work the same. RECIRCULATE, please. Misc. - Various hoses and silicon connectors for the pipes and tubes you need. A recirc line, IACV line, wastegate line, vc breather line (Get an oil catch can!), and that funny other line to the bottom of the intake mani near the TB for you B13/14 SR people. Sizes vary, measure your inputs/outputs and get however many feet you need. Exhaust: Manifold - Whatever comes with your setup. Make sure it matches your turbo, the output to T25/T28/etc is different than T3/T4/etc turbos. Wastegate - Your call. If your turbo comes with one, use it, but if you want bigger, get a bigger one. Downpipe - If your setup comes with a turndown off the turbo, use it unless you want more room. Everything should be at least 2.5in, preferably 3 if you're running much boost. Make sure to have two O2 bungs, one for your 1st O2 and the other for a wideband so you can tune. Backpressure is bad. Catback - This should match the size of the downpipe. Bigger is pointless, smaller is stupid. Get one that flows well with straight through cores, that sort of thing. Keep in mind that this thing will be LOUD, so a resonator is recommended both for volume and tone. Without resonators, most cars sound tinny and ricetastic, and Sentras/NXs/whatever are no exceptions. Your resonator should be straight-through as well for best flow. I'll go ahead and say that my BRM Exhaust from our beloved owner Greg sounds great and flows well. Backpressure is bad. OBDII folks, keep in mind that you need to move your 2nd O2 bung behind the cat to stay legal. To make this clear, BACKPRESSURE IS BAD FOR TURBOS. Fuel/Management: Injectors - Get injectors to match your boost level. Below 12psi, 370ccs will work. 34lb (360cc) MSDs are a good choice for top-feed people (B15), 370s from any other SR do nicely for side-feed people (B13/14). For higher boost, 50lb MSDs (B15) do nicely. Most B13/14 people get a top-feed fuel rail when they get to needing more than 370s. I believe JWT can help you out, or whatever source you may be able to find. I've heard of people making their own. Computer - A piggyback like an SAFCII does the trick. Check the recommended list about this. Wastegate control - If you're using a wastegate actuator that came with your turbo, just hook up the line and go. Those of you with boost controllers, read the instruction manual and bear in mind that more boost requires more fuel and management, as well as increases the wear and tear on your engine components. B15 guys, bear in mind that roller-rocker SRs do not have quite as strong of pistons/rods and have more of a tendency to shoot rocker arms at high rpms. Misc.: Besides the aforementioned hoses, you will need... Oil - An oil feed line of whatever size matches your turbo outlet and the hole you've tapped on the block. A multiport T off the sending unit is another must so you can feed the turbo. SPL has one with two ports, one for the engine, another for the turbo. Nissport and Tuner Toys make them with more ports. Coolant - Lines for coolant, some rubber fuel hose from NAPA is cheap and easy. Fittings - This is probably the biggest pain I ran into. If you have an aircraft supply shop nearby, you're in luck. ATPturbo.com has basically every fitting you need. It's kind of confusing still. With the T25, the oil inlet is -3AN. Ask people who have whatever turbo you have what fittings you need and be prepared to order/go hunting for these. Injector connectors - If you're running MSDs bear in mind that they have a different plug on them that you'll need to solder into your wiring harness.. Autozone has the part, it's a GP Sorenson, part # 800-9213. Each Autozone will have one, at best, so be prepared to run around a bit or have them transfer them in from other stores. You need 4, one for each injector. And now, the recommended list... Highly Recommended: Boost gauge - My VDO was something like $30, then I got a mounting cup for it. Works well, easily visible. I need to wire it up so I can see it at night. You'll need another hose for this, run it through the firewall on the passenger side near the glovebox, there's a grommet there you can pull out. Keep in mind that where it taps into determines whether you get vacuum or not. I suggest tapping in near the TB for the most useful measurement. Using a QuickTap from ATP will make this easy, as it just slids into one of your IC connectors. Your call. Fuel pump - A Walbro 255lph is a good call. B13/14 guys have specific part #s, but there is no listing for B15s. B15 guys, either use a B14 pump (apparently it fits rather easily, I'm trying to dig up the install info for when I do this myself) or the in-line kit, PTI has both. Without this part you'll more than likely get an A/F spike at about 5200rpm (max power, oddly enough) to 12.5 no matter what you do with the SAFC, though it falls back to 11.5:1 (what we want) by 6000rpm and stays steady to redline. Mine spikes to 12.9 on occasion and that causes some detonation with the stock pump. Point being, if you can't afford/find a pump right now, either don't do the install or don't wind it out. Trust me, there's plenty of fun to be had in 3rd and 4th gear on winding backroads at 3000-4500rpm. FPR - NISMO is a good choice, but they're not cheap. Your call. You'll need this to get the pressure right with that big pump, otherwise you'll run stupid rich. Moderately Recommended: Management - B15 guys, look into getting a JWT-tuned B14 ECU and rewiring to run it, B15 SR ECUs cannot be tuned. B13/14 guys, look into getting your ECU tuned by JWT. This way, the piggyback is just for fine tuning, rather than for the livelihood of the engine. Be careful with your ECU or it might decide it hates you and randomly malfunction (don't ask me how I know). Suspension: A good shock/spring combo is definitely a good idea to keep you on the road with the new power. I like my Koni Yellow/Eibach Sportline combo. Coilovers would be even better. I hear good things about JICs (especially the FLTA2s) and TEINs, and lots of arguments about K-Sports. Many guys swear by Yellows and Ground Controls, claiming better handling than the coilover boys. Wheels/Tires - Wheels should suit your style and budget, but more importantly, they should have space for the rubber you need to keep that power going to the ground. For B13/14 guys, you don't have as much room in the fenderwells, so a 15X7 or 16X7 would be great, though it may rub a little depending on your suspension. B15 guys get their one and only break here. With my Koni/Eibach setup, a drop of 1.5in and with not a whole lot of wheel travel, I easily fit 17X7s with 215/45/17s. NISMO wheels are 17X7.5, which would give you the option of a 225 series tire, though this will be close to rubbing, depending on suspension. As tires go, the stickier the better. Azenis are a good bet, but if you want to drive this thing year round and as a daily, and are budget conscious, I have to recommend some Falken Ziex Ze 512s. They handle my power for the most part (though wet+turning+WOT and we're off to crazy wheelspin land, even with the LSD), and RED_DET, our mod here, runs them around his 15"s on his B13 with 278whp with no complaints, wow. $74/tire for 215/45/17s and even cheaper for smaller sizes. LSD - A limited slip is your new friend. Get one if you didn't have one stock. Brakes - Please get some better stopping power. If nothing else, get some Hawk HPS pads. This isn't really necessary, but, like suspension, you need some way of keeping control with the added power. I went for a pretty strong route with Brembo slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and Technafit SS lines all around. I also run ATE Super Blue fluid. Speedbleeders will make this install easier. As I said though, some good pads will do the trick, make sure to bed them properly. Transmission - B15 guys, you're in luck. B15s have the strongest trannies of USDM Sentras. P11 G20s share this transmission. B13/14 guys don't have this, but the stock transmission will hold quite a lot of power (RED is on the stock one with, as mentioned, 278whp). If your tranny is on the way out, look into getting a B15 or JDM one. However, everyone should look for a new clutch. My stock clutch is holding pretty well, but I don't think it'll last long. Look at the advertised power levels and get what suits your setup. Other: Lots of guys swear by the virtues of EGT gauges, being it that EGT is often a good measure of what's going on with combustion. Other gauges to look at would be Oil Temp and Oil Pressure, a better Water Temp gauge, Tranny Temp, and A/F Ratio. A shortshifter wouldn't be a bad idea either, mostly because they're just that much fun. Good fluids like Redline synthetic tranny oil, Redline Water Wetter, and Mobil1 Synthetic engine oil are always a good idea. Those of you with G20s, things I mention for B15s also apply to P11 G20s (2000+) while B13/14 notes apply to P10 (before 2000) G's. This includes engine and transmission issues. Suspensions are different. Parts Used For THIS Install: Nissan Avenir exhaust manifold, ball-bearing T25 turbo, intake pipe, and BOV (or the same stuff from a Bluebird or GTi-R) MSD 34lb/hr (360.4cc/min) fuel injectors top-feed, low impedance (or larger if upping boost past 12 or so PSI or using a bigger turbo) JohnnyRaceCar 2.25in inlet/outlet front-mount intercooler Intercooler piping (some stainless steel bends from an exhaust shop will do) High temp silicon couplers for ic piping, including transitions up to the TB, BOV, and down to the turbo outpipe, if needed Apexi SAFCII or AEM EMS or JWT-tuned B14 Sentra ECU 40in oil feed line, -3an with a 90* end on one end 7in oil return line (be safe and go with an 8, but don’t go bigger than a 10, I have a small leak because my 7 is not compressing right – now that I think about it, a 6 may do as well, if you’ve got lots of cash, get several size and see what fits you well) tap for oil return on the block oil sending tee (SPL has lowest price I’ve ever found) new banjos and stuff for the turbo, check ATPturbo.com for all this kind little stuff oil catch can or a breather filter if you’re going to ignore this or buy a can later 1in ID hose (get 2ft and cut excess) for BOV recirc 1/4in ID hose for line to wastegate actuator (get 3ft, cut excess) 1/4in ID hose for line from BOV to TB (2ft or so, cut excess) 1/4in ID hose for coolant feed/return (get 6ft, cut excess) 1/2in hose cap for un-used BOV opening (more explanation later) turbo tap or quicktap for boost gauge feed 1/4in hose for boost gauge boost gauge GP Sorensen injector connectors (Autozone part# 800-9213, each store will have one, be prepared to drive around or wait a day or two to have them sent to your local store – supposedly Advance has them too, though mine didn’t) Exhaust piping and a flexpipe for your downpipe, use 2.5in ID pipe at least, 3in ID for high boost apps Flanges for downpipe (JWT has the ones you need, except the 2 bolt cat flange, check an exhaust shop for this) FSM, clamps, plugs, nuts, bolts, sealants, electrical tape, solder, patience Overall cost? Probably in the $2000-2500 range, plus countless hours soaked in God-knows-what and smelling like some cross between motor oil, rotting fish, and general death. I probably forgot some little stuff, you’d best have another car handy for runs to Autozone. Think you’re ready? Sad to say, I bet you’re not, but hopefully this write-up will alleviate the pain a little. Prep: Install SAFC: Disconnect the battery. There’s a box in the passenger corner of the engine bay right by the firewall. Remove it. Now, open it to find the ECU. Take the white clip thing off and push the black lever back from where it was to separate the wiring from the ECU. Now, find the right pins, solder the SAFC wires in. 32 is rpm signal, 35 can be used as well, using 32 you won’t be able to correct past 6000rpm - EDIT: Use pin 75, this signal avoids the lack of correction past 6000rpm while avoiding the summer overheating that can be caused by using pin 35 48 is ground 61 is MAF signal 110 is power 81 is knock 92 for throttle, 71 works too, but 92 gives you the flexibility of modifying this signal if you need to The wires in the ecu should be uncut if at all possible. you can use the soldering iron tip to melt the isulation off. the only one that is hard to do is the clear one (forgot which one that is), it is heat resistant tubing. For solder, use somthing with silver in it, or a standard 40/60.I would not reccomend the lead free stuff because it is hard to work with at times and can be weaker. The MAF wire has to be cut because it is routed through the SAFC. If you have it available, you can use heat shrink tubing. it creates a better insulation, but can be risky because you have to heat it up to make it contract and cover the solder joint, and the wires have VERY little slack to work with so you run the risk of melting adjacent insulation (bad thing).In general, be cautious. Perform the SAFC setup routine. Take Stuff Off: Remove the bumper, there’s several bolts, including some stuffed into the corner behind the bumper and between it and the fenderwell lining. It’s a beast, I have no idea how my buddy got to it, consult the FSM. Remove the passenger-side plastic cover that runs around the corner of the bumper support and back towards the wheel. You’ll have to cut it into two pieces and remove the part that covers the coolant reservoir, your IC piping doesn’t want to play nice. Go ahead and remove the foglamps, if you have them. Remove the screw on the top and just push from the back and they’ll pop right out. Now, if the car isn’t in the air, go ahead and do that, the higher the better, and preferably all of it. Remove the exhaust midpipe, start at one end and work to the other. There are several heatshields, but the bolts are easy to find. Remove the stock intake system. It has a few brackets. If you had a CAI before, remove it and clean the filter if you plan on reusing that. Remove the exhaust manifold. There are 4 each nuts on top and bottom, you’ll have to get some creative sockets set up, a rotating/bending socket attachment will be helpful here and later on. Remove the passenger front wheel. You have to, don’t gripe. Drill and tap for oil return: This has been done a lot. It’s the exact same as on any other Sentra. I’m not going to get all crazy about it, Google it or email me for more specific questions. Get a friend or two to help you if you haven’t already. – pretty good article here -> http://htttp://www.brazosport.....html Now, support the engine by placing a tranny jack (or use a normal jack with a block of wood on it) underneath it, there’s a rectangular area that does the trick. Now, jack that jack once or twice so that it’s holding the weight. Remove the front-rear engine mount beam (or at least one side of it). There are 4 monster bolts (17mm, if I remember correctly) that hold that thing on, they all have rubber washers. A big socket wrench, maybe a torque wrench, would be nice. Pop these off. Now, there are some bolts that come to a point at one end that run through the mount and bracket. Remove these. Voila, the beam will come right down. Then engine will stay up on the two lateral mounts, but the jack is a good safety measure. Now, remove the lower (steel, black) oil pan. I hope you drained the oil first. Remove the oil pickup. Remove the upper (silver) oil pan. Watch out for these bolts, they’re hard to get to, a small socket did the trick for us… Now, drill and tap. Check the link earlier for specifics on this one. You pretty much just have to go for it. Get a friend to help you and you can drill from the back (right under your crank with oil dripping on you, yay!) I drilled from the back, my hole ended up a little to the right/bottom, but it works. Clean off the old RTV from the pans, put some new stuff on, and put it all back together, make sure not to overtighten the oil pan bolts, you’ll crack it, don’t ask me how I know. Install banjos and stuff: Oil return/oil feed Coolant return/coolant feed Pretty straightforward, it’s tricky to get in the hole for oil feed, make sure to have gaskets/copper washers, they should come with the kit (assuming you get the ATP turbo setup)… make sure your outlets match what you’re using for lines. Specifically get barbed coolant banjos. Install coolant feed/return lines: The throttle body has some coolant lines for warming it in extreme cold. I don’t plan on living anywhere cold, I hate cold weather unless I’m skiing. That said, I just removed these lines and ran some hose to the turbo from here. Remove the throttle body (4 simple bolts), clean it with carb cleaner while it’s out. Find the lines, disconnect the old hoses, put the new hoses where the feed/return was. Don’t worry which is which, coolant can flow either way in Garrett turbos. Plug the barbs you just removed the lines from on the intake manifold, anything will work, there’s no pressure. Reinstall the TB, the gasket should still be good. Trim the tube thing: There’s a stupid tube that will try to prevent you from dropping in the mani in the next step. There’s a rubber hose that runs from near the mani area to the valve cover. The lower hard pipe is what we’re talking about. Trim it back to where before it bends, reflare it if you feel such an urge. Mr. Dremel is your friend. Install exhaust manifold/turbo/turbo turndown: Make sure the turbo heatshield is on, you can’t get it on later. You may want to go ahead and extend the O2 sensor wires 3-4 inches now to save you the trouble later, as the Avenir O2 sensor plug doesn’t reach the wiring harness plug. Remove the EGR tube that screwed into the old manifold, the new one doesn’t have it. You’ll have to re-route this later to pass emissions. By the way, I’m assuming you’re keeping your AC. I’d have removed mine except the ladies would complain, and we all know an unhappy lady makes car rides not fun no matter what you’ve got under the hood. So much innuendo… Work it down in there. There’s a rogue AC line that will try to stop you, show it who’s boss. You’ll probably beat the stew out of your radiator fan shrouds, sorry. It’s a tight fit. Trim the wastegate actuator bracket as necessary. Connect oil/coolant lines to turbo. Also, connect the oil feed line to the oil sending unit, which is right near the oil filter. It’s pretty easy to spot. Screw your sending T into it and connect the stock line and the turbo line. Bolt it in as per the FSM. Need an FSM? Go to Nissan Service Manuals. Hard part’s over, right? Ha. You’re not done, but at least you don’t have to cut stuff… or do you? Intercooler piping: You’ll need several cuts and connectors for this. I’d suggest you run it out toward the passenger side from the turbo, around the bumper support jackstand point, around the front to the intercooler (comes with instructions on mounting), around the other bumper jackstand point up through the hole where your stock intake resonator was, then up right by the strut tower and over to the TB. Make sure to run the BOV the right way, fat side away from the intake mani. You’ll need a hole somewhere after the intercooler for the intake temp sensor. Make sure to have a grommet to get a good seal. Run the 1/4in line back to the TB area from the top of the BOV. Run the same-size line from the small side outlet down to the wastegate actuator. Cap the one labled “WTF?” B15/P11 SRs don’t have a line running to the bottom of the intake mani just after the TB for idling purposes. Yay. Install pre-turbo intake tube The Avenir intake tube goes up toward your battery, turns back then again towards the driver’s side. Trim it before it turns to the right the last time somewhere to put the filter near the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure to plug the MAF back in. Refer to the general engine bay pic. To see this and the BOV routing, as well as where I put my intake temp sensor – Install Fuel Injectors: Follow the FSM procedures for the most part. Pop off the accelerator cables Pop off the brackets. Undo your fuel fill cap, otherwise you’re going to leak a lot of fuel. You’ll still leak a little bit, oh well. Now you can get to the fuel rail. Remove the bolts. Raise the whole assembly out of the block, undo the injector clips to the rail and electrical pigtails and pull them out of the rail. The MSDs are bigger and their electrical connectors are differently shaped. Splice the GP Sorensen connectors into your wiring harness. Get some longer bolts to attach the rail to the original points. Get spacers (can get them at Nissan) to cover the gap, 3-4 spacers per bolt will do. There’s a hose that runs from the valve cover to a hardline behind the fuel rail. Remove it. Now, trim the nipple on the fuel rail about half its length. Don’t worry about any adverse effects or reflaring, the vacuum pulls the hose on harder in this spot. You’ll need some new injector clips to clip them onto the fuel rail. Autozone sells some, GP Sorensen to the rescue again. Put some oil on the o-rings of the injectors, slide them into the rail, then slide this assembly into the block. Bolt it in. You may have to unbolt and move that rear bracket out of the way to get to the bolts. It’s a pain, a huge one. Plug in your new injectors electrically. EDIT: If you use low impedance (2 ohm) injectors as in this example you'll need a 10 ohm resistor in the wire going into each injector. It turns out that B15/P11 injectors (not sure about B13 and 14 and P10s) are high impedance (12 ohms). Going without the resistor the car will run incurably rich because the injectors will essentially be stuck open every time they fire. RE-EDIT, FINAL SOLUTION: I got some bunko info on the injectors needing to be high imp., they should be low, so the MSD bolt right in and don't need resistors, just different clips. Trust me, my car ran like crap with the resistors in. So, to be clear NO RESISTORS! Refill with oil and coolant, replace the bumper and such (you may want to wait til you’ve checked for leaks), reconnect the battery and check the fuel system for pressurization by turning the key to the on position. Take this chance to program a good 12-15% low throttle fuel curve all around so that you can get it to a shop for dyno tuning. Drive VERY wimpishly til you get it tuned or you will blow your motor, do not use any more throttle than you have to. Absolutely do not go into high rpm or high throttle, keep it at 2000rpm or less as much as possible, to be safe. If you don’t have any leaks, you’re ready to start it up. http://q45.spilky.com/gallery/...I.AVI That’s before I had the downpipe made. Purs like an angry kitten/lawnmower and kills small woodland creatures with unclean exhaust fumes. My basement smells like spent fuel still… I probably do too. Fix any leaks you might have, change the oil and filter again after having run it that first time for 5 minutes or so, just to make sure any metal shavings from the drilling got trapped and can’t come loose later. Get it tuned, get a downpipe made, have fun. I'll add more if I happen to think of it, but I'm pretty sure that's it. It's really a matter of diving in and going at it, but I think this will serve as a good reference. An FSM is pretty much a necessity, use the link provided. I'd be happy to answer any questions- [email protected] [post_title] => Turbocharging the B15 Sentra [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => turbocharge-b15-sentra [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:43:31 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:43:31 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [54] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1311 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: Anonymous

Basically, this is a solution to the dreaded CEL that many of us get from switching to testpipes. The idea is to place a gap between the pipe and the sensor to reduce the amount of exhaust gases that the sensor will see/detect. This is becoming a very popular mod over since it is NON-PERMANENT, and it does not require modification to the O2 sensor harness. Normally, I would throw a CEL about every 85 miles, so far this mod has been worthwhile.

Parts/tools Required:

1) Help! Part # 42002 and/or 42009 by Motormite, these are known as sparkplug-arresters, which should be available at any generic auto supply store (e.g. Pepboys, Autozone, etc.). Should run about $5 per package.

2) Tools
- means to lift/secure vehicle
- 10 mm socket or wrench
- 7/8” wrench for O2 sensor (or 22 mm)
- drill and 1/2” drill bit (read below)
- Dremel tool and various bits
- zip ties & dykes

Procedure:

1) Jack up car and secure with jack stands.

2) Remove 2 plastic nuts and shield covering the O2 sensor/harness junction (10mm), this will make the R&R of the rear O2 much easier.

3) Remove the rear O2 sensor, which is the one downstream of the cat.

4) Modify the sparkplug-arrester(s).First I drilled out the arrester using the 1/2” drill bit, then I used various drill bits and the Dremel to shave the rest until the sensor would fit. If you have the means to measure the sensor and get the appropriate drill bit, that would be highly recommended.

5) Install arrester(s) into downpipe & replace O2 sensor.

There are several combinations for the fix. The 42002 is a tapered-mount and the 42009 is a flat-mount with a crush washer. The 42002 (tapered) is notably longer in length than the 42009 (flat).

I elected to start off with the 42002 (tapered) only, which is the longer of the two, this worked out fine for 120 miles. Next, I placed a non-drilled 42009 (flat) in front of the 42002, so far no problems.

6) Replace 2 plastic nuts and shield covering the O2 sensor/harness junction.
7) Secure harnesses with zip ties.
8) Clear DTC’s/Reset ECU.
[post_title] => 350Z Check Engine Light With High-Flow Cats? [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-high-flow-cats [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:22:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:22:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [55] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1312 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>

1991-1998 Nissan 240sx

$60

NICOclub Rating System

98S14inAZ

This will show you how to install a 248 / 248 duration cam set up. For the newbies... 1) Turn engine manually to achieve TDC (top dead center, lobes facing out or line up the markings on the crank pulley.) 2) Use two exhaust cams (the ones with the orange paint on them) from a 91-93 KA24DE 240sx (don't argue these are the ones you need, forget about the Altima myth). 3) Don't forget to ziptie the cam gears to the timing chain after you remove the cams so you don't lose the position of the gears. 4) Install one in the exhaust cam spot on the exhaust side and replace gear in stock position, don't forget the lube. 5) Install other exhaust cam on intake side and rotate cam gear 4 teeth counter clockwise (left in layman's terms) don't forget the lube. Manually turn cam with wrench after bolted down until the notch on the gear lines up with the pin on the cam. 6) I would also recommend doing at least a revolution manually with a wrench before starting her up to make sure everything is as it should be. 7) Pour some oil on the cams, put everything back together, and fire her up, if she doesn't start easily don't force it you messed up somewhere. Start over. 8 ) If she starts you may hear a slight ticking noise, it goes away never to return after the car warms up and squirts some oil up into the cams and buckets. 9) Go for a drive. Car pulls amazingly better after 5k, my results were with an auto so yours will be a little better. I have top end now. This mod is by far better than the stock 232 232 set up and is a great improvement over the previous 240 248 configuration found in 91-93 ka24de motors stock. The intake cam definitely does the most work in these engines. I am now running 248 248 which is nearly identical to the Nissan Motorsports 248 248 cams. Total cost invested into mod: $60 and some time. [post_title] => Dual exhaust cam swap for KA24DE engines [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => cam-swap-ka24de [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:02:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:02:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [56] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1313 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Water Pump Replacement

This is a How To on how to replace the water pump in a 3rd generation Maxima with the VG30E engine. (89-94 GXE and 89-91 SE models only) The VE's may be similar but I am not sure since I do not have one.

Tools needed:
jack STANDS
jacks
tire removal tools
flathead screwdriver
8, 10, 12, and 14 mm sockets
1/4" and 3/8" drive socket wrenches
Impact wrench with a 27 mm socket
(if impact wrench is not available you can use a socket wrench but you'll need a long tube for more leverage and something to hold the pulley still, like a rubber wrapped steel cable wound around the pulley a couple times then fastened to the frame of the car)
Air compressor (if above available)
Hammer
Rubber mallet
Large sized 2 or 3 jaw puller. Autozone OEM part number 27078

Items needed:
Water pump (of course)
gasket (if not supplied with the pump)
gasket sealer/compound
WD-40 (just incase you have to take off the lower plastic coverings)
water (for you)
anti-freeze with a 50/50 mix, or 70/30. whichever you prefer and whichever the bottle says to do. 70/30 is good in the winter but just do 50/50 cause it's easier
GoJo with pummice (you'll get very dirty but you can use others)

Removal:
1. Unplug the negative wire from the battery terminal.
2. Drain all of the anti-freeze, if newer get a container and keep it for re-use.
3. Raise the car up off of the ground and secure with jack stands.
4. Take the front right wheel off.
5. Take the plastic cover that exposes the engine 10mm
6. Take the bottom plastic coverings of the car. 10mm(BE CAREFUL with these screws. They get very rusted and break easily. I recommend using WD-40 A LOT and tightening and loosening those bolts until they come out all of the way. The work on doing that is better than having to drill out broken bolts later on)
7. Remove the hose from the radiator to the splitter thingy. There is a metal piece holding the hose on. Take a 12mm socket and take the piece off. should be under the distributer. 12mm bolt and 2 flathead s/d bolts
8. Remove the other hose that goes from the splitter thingy to the thingy right below it (right to the top left of the water pump) 2 flathead screwdriver bolts
Note: you may need the screwdriver to pry off the tubing cause it gets kind of stuck on there. just work the screwdriver around the tube.
9. Take off the top cam gear cover. 8mm bolts
10. Unbolt but do not take off the water pump pulley. 4 10mm bolts
11. There is a tensioner to the rear of the main pulley. Get out a 14mm socket and loosen (not take off) the tensioner pulley. Then, with a 12mm socket you will turn the bolt on the bottom clockwise (tighten) this will actually loosen up the belt. Get it loose enough where the belt slips over the water pump pulley easily. Now you can take off the water pump pulley
12. While you are down there loosen the bolt on the top of the alternator and on the bottom, then turn the tensioner bolt counter-clockwise (loose). Then take the belt off. 12mm all
13. Go back to the top of the car and there is another belt. The tensioner puller is right to the rear of the a/c. Loosen the pulley bolt then turn the tensioner bolt counter-clockwise. Get it loose enough to pull the belt off.
14. Pull the belt off.
15. Remove the a/c belt tensioner completely off of the car by removing the 2 12mm bolts located on the rear and the bottom of the tensioner and the 14mm bolt located on the front of the tensioner.
16. Get out the Impact wrench with the 27mm socket and take off the bolt on the main pulley.
17. Get the 2 or 3 jaw puller and set it up on the pulley. If you've never taken the pulley off before once you get the puller set up you might need to use a hammer and hit the bolt that tightens the puller to kind of knock loose the pulley. Tighten the puller until the pulley is almost off. Pull the pulley off with your hands because you don't want this 8.35 pound piece of metal to hit the ground and bend or scar.
18. Remove the bottom cam gear cover. 5 8mm bolts
19. Now you have full access to your water pump. Get the 12mm socket and socket wrench out and remove the 6 bolts holding the pump in. Notice there is a different bolt on the top front of the pump. It has a threaded end. Make sure that goes back into the same spot. 6 12mm
20. MOVE BACK and pull of the pump. Some anti-freeze is sure to come out (cause it did on mine and if you read my story you know i had none)

Installation:
1. Get the new pump and clean the surface then put some gasket compound on the pump then put the gasket on the pump. Clean the engine where the pump goes. Add some more gasket compound to the top of the gasket. Kind of clean up the inside of the pump if any compound got in there.
2. Carefully manuever (sp?) the pump into the correct spot without hitting anything to dirty up the gasket and put a bolt or two in there.
3. Put the bottom cam gear cover back on. 5 8mm bolts.
4. Put the top cam gear cover on. x(?) 8mm bolts
5. This is out of step if you reverse it but makes life a little easier. Get the water pump pulley and kind of put it on the pump (it won't fit right on cause it's going to be a little snug) Line up the bolt holes and finger tighten one in there. Spin the pump around and put a bolt in the oposite side of the one you put in. Now put in the reset of the bolts. Get the shorter of the 3 belts and put it over the water pump pulley. Hold the belt down as hard as you can and start tightening the bolts on the pump pulley. Just do a cross pattern i.e. do one, then go right across to then next, then do the one beside, then go across (i hope you understand what i'm saying) Do this until the bolts are all of the way in and the pulley is on the pump all of the way. When you get all of the belts back on try to tighten all of the bolts again just to make sure. There is more tension so it won't move this time making it easier to get the bolts tightened all of the way.
6. Put the main pulley back on and hit it as far in as you can with a rubber mallet.
7. Put the main pulley bolt in and tighten it with the impact wrench. 27mm bolt
8. now just put on the plastic pieces and the tubes and you are set.

Article by:mtcookson [post_title] => 3rd-Gen Maxima water pump replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-water-pump [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:21:57 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:21:57 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [57] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1314 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Installation of Pacesetter Short Throw Shifter in 3rd-Gen Maxima

This is the how to for the Pacesetter Short Throw Shifter just incase you guys get one and happen to lose the paper or the paper doesn't come with it.

Quick Shift Kit Contents
1 - Shifter lever
1 - Delrin pivot ball
2 - Bushings
1- 1/4" x 1/4" set screw
1 - Hex wrench
1 - Teflon grease tube

Instructions:

1. Remove shifter knob and center conole from vehicle. Remove rubber boot and floor pan.
2. Raise vehicle using floor jack and support it on a sturdy jack STANDS.
3. Remove the exhaust pipe from the head pipe and the hangers after the catalytic converter. This will allow you to gain access to the heat shield. Remove heat shield.
4. The shifter mechanism is now exposed and ready to be removed. Unfasted the control rod from the lever by removing the pivot bolt and lock nut. The control rod will now swing free allowing access to M8 nuts securing the shifter to the support assembly. Remove the M8 nuts securing the support assembly and the detent spring. Tech Tip: If the M8 nuts will not break free, apply pressure on the studs from the top.
5. Push the socket assembly securing the shifter up and set aside. The two bearings and the seat can now be removed. Do no discard these parts, as they will be needed later. Pull the shifterand boot assembly out.
6. Lightly grease the pin side of the bushings in the Quick-Shift lever. Thread the Delrin adjustable ball onto the shift lever and adjust to desired position. (the middle is a good starting point. If you would like the shortest shift however, which i recomend, move it to the highest point on the threads) Tighten set screw to approximately 8 inch pounds of torque, make sure the nylon tip of the set screw is pointed towards the threads. Push the lever into the support assembly and grease the shift ball (A LOT). Replace the bushing halves and secure the rubber seat. Push the socket over the lever and bearing assembly and tighten the M8 nuts onto the studs. Tighten the set screw to approximately 8 inch pounds of torque, make sure the nylon top of the set screw is pointed towards the threads.
7. Bolt the support lever and assemblies back into the chassis. Align the holes in the control and lever rod and install the pivot bolt and lock nut. Torque to 20 ft. lbs. NOTE: If you addjust your Quick-Shift shifter for a very short throw, it will be necessary to cut a hole in the heat shield (or just take a hammer to it).
To cut the hole in the heat shield, measure the distance the shifter travels by shifting it forward and backward and mark the heat shield in it the correct positions. Using a jigsaw cut a hole in the area you have marked, trim area until shifter has 1/2" clearance all around. (i recommend just denting it in with a hammer. that way you still have your heat shield and it's quicker.)
8. Replace the rubber boot into the floow pan, and replace the console.
9. Re-install headpipe and exhaust system.
10. Test shifter to ensure you have proper engagement and no interference.
11. Lower vehicle and road test vehicle.

Note: The replacement dust boot is no longer available from pacesetter so remove it with care and try not to damage it at all.

Add on: After using my STS for a while it's really nice to have the shortened throw but i don't think i put enough oil in it. It is very, very notchy. So much so I almost can't get it into gear sometimes. So my point is grease the ball very well. After using the grease on the other needed parts FIRST, Use the rest of it on the ball. That should hopefully help keep the thing loose. Another thing is, it seems to expand when it gets hot from the exhaust which also makes it harder to shift. I think some heat wrapping around the cat might be a good idea. I'll test it out soon and give my opinions on that.

Also, do not overtighten any of the bolts. This alone can cause difficulty in shifting.

Article by:mtcookson [post_title] => Maxima short-throw shifter installation [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-shifter [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-06 21:58:14 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-07 04:58:14 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [58] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1315 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Fuel Injector Replacement - 3rd Generation w/VE30DE

Note that this information is related to the 92-94 VE30DE engine, although I'm sure some of it can be applied to the VG30E engine, as well. If you have any doubts on your capability in performing this replacement, take your car to a certified mechanic.

What you need:
1. Intake manifold gasket; part number 14032-97E00
2. Throttle body gasket; part number 16175-53J00
3. E.G.R. gasket; Napa part number G31106
4. New / remanufactured fuel injectors/fuel rail assembly

The steps I performed:
1. Release fuel pressure to zero and disconnect the negative battery.

a. I did this by pulling the fuel pump fuse.

2. Separate the accelerator cables from the throttle body.

a. They easily slide off. Tilt the butterfly valves back to get them.
b. Remove the cabling and routing from the intake plenum.

3. Unhook the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor and (if Cali-spec Maxima) exhaust gas temperature sensor. This is located right next to the E.G.R. valve.

4. Remove the intake elbow leading to the throttle body.

a. There are two clamps on each end, and one clamp on the underside of the elbow. There are also two "squeeze-type" clamps holding hoses on either side of the elbow, as well.

b. Mine took a flat-head screwdriver, but I think either a 7mm or 10mm socket will work, as well.

5. Label and unhook the hoses from under the throttle body.

a. This would include the E.G.R. valve, the E.G.R. control solenoid valve, the intake manifold collector, and (if equipped with a manual transmission) the power valve control solenoid and the power valve actuator.

6. Disconnect throttle sensor harness connector (a c-clip holds this, and other harnesses, in place.

7. Remove the intake manifold support bolts, located on the back of the intake manifold.

a. There are two brackets, with two bolts each. This takes a 12mm socket, and a little contortionist work, as the working space is very limited.

8. There is a large, c-shaped hose that's just to the right and behind the throttle body. I would recommend removing it, just so it is out of the way.

9. Remove the E.G.R. body from the back of the intake manifold.

a. This is held on by two nuts. I think they are 12mm in size.

10. Remove the hose that runs along the front of the intake manifold.

a. This is held on by two 10mm hex bolts that secure it to the manifold at 2.7-3-7 ft. lbs.

b. At this point, I would probably also remove the following: the wiring harness for the back and front row of coils, the PCV hose behind the intake manifold, another smaller hose just above the PCV hose, and the vacuum hose railing (10mm).

11. Remove the intake manifold.

a. There are six 6mm hex bolts that hold down the manifold at 13 - 16 ft lbs.

b. There is a special torque sequence that I observed in both loosening them and tightening them down. You will likely need to pry the manifold up and out, ensuring that no hoses, wires, etc., are still connected as you do so.

At this point, you should have the intake completely removed, which will leave 6 gaping holes in the top of your engine, which match up to the intake to the engine. There will likely be some remnants of the gasket there, as well. Plug up the intake holes before
cleaning the gasket surface.

12. Remove the fuel injector harness wires.

a. For the 92,93,94's this is easy, as you just apply pressure on the harness and pull.

b. For the 90 and 91's (and presumably 89's) there is a metal wire clip that you must pull out or partially out to remove the connector.

13. Remove fuel injector(s)

a. At this point, I removed the entire fuel rail assembly, since my replacement was a complete assembly. If you're doing it the way I did mine, then the bolts that hold it down are 6mm hex bolts, torqued at 2.7-3.7 ft. lbs. Otherwise, if you're just taking out the injectors themselves, use a pair of pliers and grip them tightly, turning the injectors back and forth
before pulling upward. All should come out easily.

b. There should be two O rings per injector for the 92-94 injectors. I removed my entire fuel rail, so I'm only going by previous information, along with info from a Chilton's manual. The lower O-ring will likely stay in the fuel rail hole upon removal of the injector. Just stick your finger in and retrieve it. Be sure to replace with new "O" rings, per the FSM.

14. Replace injector(s)

a. Apply motor oil or petroleum jelly to the O rings and carefully insert the new fuel injector. Instead of just pushing downward immediately, you should turn it back and forth, while applying downward pressure. You will see and feel the injector seat in how it should be. Before replacing, assure that the new ones spec out correctly with regard to resistance. The range of resistance allowed by Nissan is 10 –14 ohms.

15. Clean intake manifold, and intake runners.

a. I used Carb clean to do this. I sprayed a good amount of Carb clean down the intake runners and used a cloth to wipe the dirt out. You may want to try a toothbrush if you've got that kind of patience.

b. Be sure to completely scrape away all remaining gasket material on both surfaces so as not to allow an intake leak after assembly.

16. Reinstall all parts in reverse order, keeping in mind the torque sequence and use the torque wrench so as to tighten the following to these torque specifications, per the FSM:

a. Throttle body bolts (2-step process) - (1)6.5-8 ft. lbs. (2)13-16 ft. lbs.
b. Intake manifold hex bolts, 13-16 ft. lbs.
c. E.G.R. valve bolts – 9-12 ft lbs.
d. Intake manifold support brackets - 12-15 ft. lbs.

17. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

18. Start the engine and check for leaks.
[post_title] => 3rd-Gen Maxima Fuel Injector Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-fuel-injector-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:19:51 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:19:51 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [59] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1317 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How to reset ECU in 5th and 6th Generation Maxima's

1. Turn ignition switch on and wait about 3 seconds.

Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. (here is where i think you can get a code from this.)
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

[post_title] => 5th/6th-Gen Maxima - How to Reset ECU [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-reset-ecu [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 20:53:41 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 03:53:41 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [60] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1318 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How to Turbo a 3rd Gen Maxima

I get a lot of emails from people asking me where to get a JDM engine but in my opinion, after having done the swap and such, that's not the way to go.

I think the best way to turbo you VG maxima would just be to use the stock engine and turbo it. Reason being, you're already starting with a 9:1 c/r engine. Its not too high and not too low. It'll spool a turbo a lot faster than a low compression VG and you'll retain the stock low end power not to mention you'll have more power at the same boost as you would a stock VG30ET simply due to the c/r being .7 higher.

The low end power is a big concern. I notice a massive difference off the line between the stock VG and the VG30ET I'm using. Its actually quite a bit slower off the line because of it and if I did the turbo setup again, I would definitely stay at the 9:1 compression. If you were to build up a motor I would personally not go below 8.5:1 unless you were wanting to run massive amounts of boost. Even then though... its all in fuel tuning. Supply enough fuel and keep it from detonating and you can run as high boost and compression as you want (so to speak). That's how you're seeing guys like Hal making 500+ hp on a stock block VQ. The VG's are very strong engines and handle a lot of abuse but no engine can handle detonation so keep the fuel supply up.

Basically I think the best way to do a turbo setup on our Maximas would be to purchase two right side (rear) manifolds from a 2nd gen Maxima or a 300ZX. These are the manifolds that go straight to the crossover pipe. This will ensure excellent flow to the crossover pipe. From there you'll need to have a custom crossover pipe made. Two 90 degree mandrel bends from the manifolds to a turbo flange will make this setup just plain sweet. The flow should be unmatchable unless you go with a custom tubular header or really work those manifolds over.

The stock Z manifolds have been proven to flow enough exhaust for 400 rwhp in a Z31 so I wouldn't be a bit surprised if this design will flow even more.

Now for the crossover pipe, you'll want to have a flex section welded on near either of the manifolds. This allows for a much easier time getting it on and off but also adds the ability of being able to allow expansion and contraction when the metal heats and cools. This keeps the welds from breaking and the pipes from cracking and such (and is why the stock crossover pipe comes with a flex section as well.) If you want to go cheap you can probably cut the flex section off of a stock crossover pipe but I would recommend buying a new one as flex sections tend to not last a very long time. Granted the ones on the crossover pipe should last much longer than one on the stock y-pipe I still wouldn't take any chances and go with a quality new unit to ensure no exhaust leaks for maximum power, efficiency, and to keep spool times down.

One thing to note is that the cylinders are offset of each other so when you put two of the same manifolds on the engine one will stick out further than the other (I want to say the front one will appear slightly longer). I don't believe this will cause any problems as using the mandrel bends on the crossover pipe will help equal things out . If you want equal lengths just cut a section out of the "longer" manifold and weld it back together. If you take it to a shop a lot of them will say you can cut and weld cast iron but these are very high quality manifolds and weld incredibly well. I believe they're actually considered cast steel. Once they start working on it they'll realize its some good stuff. (they're too used to crappy cast iron manifolds on ye old domestics or something)

(This is kind of a crude drawing but you should get the idea pretty easily.)

After you get the exhaust dealt with everything else is pretty much cake. All you have to do is decided which route you want to take for the fuel control (e-manage, s-afc, JWT, romulator, Zemulator (I'd probably choose this since its been said to work on the VG), etc. etc.). If you go with the e-manage or s-afc you won't be able to go much larger than the 259 cc injectors due to them being able to only adjust fuel +/- 50%. 370 cc injectors are more than 50% larger than the stock 180's which will make it a bit harder to tune properly. This is where going with a JWT, Zem, or the romulator will come into play.

From there find yourself an aftercooler if you're wanting to run higher amounts of boost (I believe they say anything above 7-8 psi, maybe 10 psi... just depends on the turbo used). If you're going for maximum performance go with nothing less than a true bar and plate aftercooler. If you see a picture of one of Spearco's bar and plates looking through the inside of the core and compare it to a tube and fin you'll be blown away. (I'll get some pictures of this a bit later. There's a picture of a Spearco in Turbo and High tech Performance, I believe, so I'll get that one and show you the comparison with my "hybrid" tube/fin and bar/plate aftercooler that I bought off of ebay).

Having the optimal setup for the piping is a bit trickier due to the design of the intake manifold "elbow" (the aluminum piece that curves to the driver's side and connects to the plastic intake pipe). Reason being is with that elbow no matter how you do the piping, besides running an aftercooler with the inlet and outlet on the same side, the pipes run over the hot exhaust at some point and there can be some extreme bends (180 degrees). This can be fixed if you have the elbow modified to point to the passenger's side or you can simply use an aftercooler of this design:

The only restraint with that design is running multiple pipes through the same hole gets a bit tight, but its not impossible. Probably the biggest piping you need for the intake on these cars is 2.5 inches though so its not too bad. You'll need to get a 2.5 to 3 inch converter coupler to go to the aluminum piece or something similar to hook it up but that's not all that hard. http://www.hightempsilicone.com has some pretty good pricing on silicone couplers and converters like that and also has some very high quality clamping solutions. I'd personally recommend nothing less than a t-bolt clamp. The constant tension clamp is probably not necessary but if you want to get it for the all out best setup you can.

The exhaust, fuel, computer, and intake has been covered so far so that basically leaves the clutch and wheels/tires. Get a good clutch to handle the power this thing will make (ACT, SPEC, Exedy, RPS, etc.) and some nice, wide wheels and tires to help put the power to the ground without slipping and you'll be set.

Really the only thing you'll have to worry about now is if the Borg Warner POS tranny will survive the power the VG can put out. Import Performance Transmission (www.ipttrans.com) knows of the input shaft bearing problem and can put in a larger, stronger bearing to fix the issue. I'm not sure of pricing so you can just give them a call to see what they charge for that service. They can also build it up even more if you'd like to. For a full buildup I'd say you can expect to pay about $1,500 or so. Expensive... but not as expensive as replacing the tranny constantly and not to mention the headaches it will save. The tranny is one reason why I'm pretty much done with my Maxima.

Hopefully this helps those of you looking to turbo you VG. If you have any questions I'd be more than happy to answer them. You can PM me or email me, either way works.

Good luck to those wanting to turbo their Max!

Article courtesy:mtcookson
[post_title] => 3rd-Gen Maxima Turbocharging [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-turbo-how-to [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:02:39 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:02:39 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [61] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1319 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Calculating Injector Size and Metric Conversions You will need access to a dyno to properly do this. Step 1: Determine the horsepower of your engine. To determine the horsepower your engine is producing at the crank, you should have your vehicle dyno tested. Step 2: Determine your approximate BSFC or Brake Specific Fuel Consumption. BSFC is the amount of fuel used per unit of horsepower made by your engine. Again, you can determine this from dyno testing. Step 3: Determine your injector's safe duty cycle. The injector duty cycle is the percentage of time that the fuel injector is open vs. the total time between firing. For most OEM cars it's .8, but if you're on this forum it's safe to assume for this purpose that your SDC is actually .85, as this is pretty standard for most modified and racing cars. If you're upgrading your injectors to a higher flow rate, then it's safe to assume that .85 is your number!!!!! SDC=.85 Step 4: Calculating the injector size. Okay, so now you have the numbers you need. You've done the dyno time, and you have your crank-hp, your aprox. BSFC, and your injector SDC. What now? Now you can use this information to calculate the correct size by using this formula: injector size in lbs./hr.= (max. hp X BSFC) divided by (number of injectors X SDC) So, if you have a modified Sentra, putting out 150 hp, then the equation might look like this: (150 X .45) divided by ( 4 X .8 ) = 21.1 lb./hr. So, what the hell do you do with lbs./hr.??? I mean, everyone else in the world has the sense to use the metric system... but your Nascar fan parts guy at the local Napa doesn't understand the simplicity of the universal metric system... so he only knows lbs./hr.... well, that's easy. Use this formula to calculate: To convert pounds per hour to cc's per minute (like normal people would): cc/min = (lbs./hr. X 60) divided by 6.177 so, using the example above, that would be: (21.1 lbs./hr. X 60) divided by 6.177 = 204.9 cc/min. [post_title] => How to calculate injector size [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => calculating-injector-size [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:03:18 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:03:18 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [62] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1320 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: Brian (bigdog76)

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=156041

1.Fixing the Heater was not all fun I will admit.

2.However it is possible and it’s not to hard to do. It took me much longer than I wanted but can be done in 2-4 hours, for under $10 if you have the tools to do it.

3.First start by removing the radio/Acc Controls.And later the glove box area. You will have to unplug all of the plugs.

4. Once you get back there leave the ACC control plugged in so you can see how things operate.

5.You will see the Air Mix door post broken. What you will see is the Air Mix door linkage hanging from a spring you will need to remove that linkage and take off the spring with pliers. Take it out for now. ACC will still work fine at this point.

6. In the Pics you will notice I also removing the control unit that operates the linkages you will need to remove that to have room to work on the broken post.There is 3 screws one on top and bottom and side.

7. Once things are clear you will need a DREMEL tool with a grinding wheel to clean the broken plastic that came off the Air Mix door post. The post is now metal under the plastic that broke.

8. Once that is all cleaned up nice. You can begin to fabricate the part that will link to it and get it operational.

9. I used an Aluminum Dowel 3/8" in diameter. I do not recommend the Aluminum it is too hard of a material to work with.But it’s up to you.Plastic/Nylon rod is all you really need and some epoxy later on. Use a Plastic dowel 3/8" in diameter. You can buy it from a hobby shop or go to this link copy and paste it.

http://www.usplastic.com/catal...age=1.Otherwise go to http://www.usplastic.com

10.I used a bench grinder to shape the dowel into the half circle to fit into the linkage piece that was remove you can see what I mean in the pictures and when you get back in there in the job. But you can use the dremel if you are using plastic.

11. Make sure it is a good fit.Also make sure that it fits flush with the outside of the linkage piece.I screwed in a small screw and grinded down washer on mine. You can do the same or just epoxy it well when installing back in.

12. Once you have fabricated that side you will need to cut it down to about 3/4" or small give or take. Any longer that that it will not work it will bind and be to long and tight once it is in place.

13.Once you cut it down.You will need to cut a half shaped circle shape just like the heater door rod.This will be internal and small this will take the most time.I put it in a vice and used a drill to shape it the best I could. You can do the same or use a small file and a drill. Start out small so you can test the size as you go to the air mix post metal rod.

14. Don’t cut it to big you want to cut and shape it the best you can to match up to the air mix door rod as best you can so it fits like a glove.
The epoxy will make up the difference and hold it into place.

15. Make sure that both of the flat side of the half shaped circle that you fabricated out are on the same side mirroring each other. This is very important.

16. Once that is all done re install the control unit and make sure the A/C is on the coldest side 65 degrees that is where you want it to be when you reinstall everything.

17.I used 90 second epoxy which dries very fast you might choose to pic a slower acting epoxy but that is up to you.Read the directions of the epoxy and put some on the end on the metal air mix door post and on the inside on the fabricated piece and quickly install linkage into place.It will hold it into place pretty good so no worries.

18. If you choose to just epoxy in the fabricated piece first that is find or you can epoxy the linkage to the fabricated piece first and then epoxy the air mix door rod to the whole piece and set it in place.

19. Next once everything was in place I let it dry about 2-3 hours.
Then I removed the glove box to get to the spring area to reinstall the spring back in place. You can see in the pics.

20. Make sure it is working.After that leave it alone for 24 hours so the epoxy can cure and be at its strongest.

21. If you have any questions feel free to post on the above thread.
[post_title] => Q45 Heater Mix Door Removal / Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-heater-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:45:27 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:45:27 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [63] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1321 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Twin-turbo for your 350Z or G35...

By:Going Deep

Now, some background...as many of us Z owners striving to seek more and more power out of our stock engine, I decided to buy a GReddy TT kit. Had it professionally installed and about a month later...catatrophic engine damage. I broke connecting rod #2 and subsequently it put two windows in my block.

So, I decided do it right and do a forged internal build up and I am only days away from finally have it done. But this thread is not about MY build up, its about YOUR build up. I have put together a good plan on how to go about an engine build up AND forced induction to your Z.

First, the price of admission. For those of you that would like to go venture in the land of boost, the price of admission is a steep one....but well worth the cost!!!

If I had to do it all over....to minimize the time your Z is in the shop and to minimize the TOTAL labor costsand not risking blowing an engine...

Buy the following in this order...

1. A short block, this is basically just an engine w/o heads and a crank. See item 1. Since the block is brand new, you don't have to worry about buying a used short block and how it became a used short block. Believe or not, the small block will cost only about 1300. I say only, because this will become your build up engine. From here, you can sleeve it with AEBS only if you plan to exceed 600rwhp. Once you're reaching these power levels, you are in uncharted terroritory that less than a handful have ventured into. This of course will be inherently risky to venture where no one else has any experience.

2. Next, you buy a crankshaft. item27. This will cost you about 550. Now, that you have a block and crank, you can get the bearing codes for the rods and mains and...

3. Buy the 12 rod bearings item 25 (there sold in halves) and order the 4 main bearings. This will only set you back about 200. You got off easy in this step. But there's more...

4. Now, pistons and rods. You shouldn't spend more than 2k here if you shop around. My suggestion would be to stay less than 9.5:1 compression ratio. In the simplest terms here...the lower the compression ratio, the higher psi you can run. The trade off, there would be a little more of a delay in reaching your peak hp in your power band. But, you will be less likely to run into detonation issues. Personally, I wanted 9:1, but ended up with 8.6:1 due to supply issues of pistons.

5. Okay, now you have a short block, crank, rods, bearings, and pistons. But a couple more internal parts to buy, ARP head studs and main studs. These should run you about 450 for the studs. There are 16 head studs and 16 main studs.

Now, you have reached a point where you can ship these parts to a reputable builder and they can build your engine. Make sure this shop has built one before and their machine shop has worked on a VQ-35DE. THIS IS CRUICIAL.
Now they can double check the clearances of your bearings and you have a "built" bottom end engine. One more thing to possibly consider in this step is to get a thermo coat on your pistons and bearings. There is debate on the longevity of the coat, but it doesn't cost too much though. Whats another few hundred bucks.

6. Okay, now this is the step, not step 1, is when you buy your favorite TT or single Turbo or Super charger that you have been having dirty fantasies about when no one is looking. Depending on the brand, each will have something or another you must buy separately. If you've made it this far, you would have researched the shortcomings of your particuler kit. At this point you should consider thermo coating your turbo exhaust manifolds and exhaust turbine. This will allow you to keep engine temps down and keep the hot gases inside hot.

7. Now, you are in a really good position to start your build. But, a few more things to buy...of course. There's always something else to buy! But, the good news is that the remainder of the stuff is usually kept in stock.

NGk plugs...75
boost controller...450
Gauges....300-1200 (depending on number and type, + install)
Clutch....1k-2k (depending on brand, and you might as well do it while the engine is out)
Fuel sys upgrade...1k (or it you get APS, its in the price tag already)
Larger fuel injectors...500
Thermal coating.....300 This could be on pistons, bearings, or turbo "hot" parts

8. Once you get back your "built" engine, which would probably take 6-8 weeks if you're lucky. You can now drop off your Z at a good and reputable shop, and they can swap out the engines and install your TT at the same time. MAKE SURE YOU GET A GOOD ESTIMATE OF ALL COSTS INVOLVED AND GET IT IN WRITING ALONG WITH A COMPLETION DATE!!! Okay, enough with the yelling, lets continue. From here, this should take less than a month. So, your Z sat in a shop for less than a month and you have a built engine with TT. AND you were able to minimize downtime, costs, and you even spread out the costs of buying parts and the TT.

9. What do you do with your original short block? No, it does not become a new table in your nook by your kitchen!!! You will be able to sell it to the next guy. And he can still follow the plan I just laid out.

10. So, you read this part and now you are thinking I'm nuts or maybe the price of admission is very high. Well, you're right on both accounts. No, but seriously, this is the best way to go about it especially if....
a. You don't want to have your Z in a shop for 2-3 MONTHS
b. Your Z is a daily driver
c. Dont think you can take a short cut and just do TTs on stock internals. Come on now, that engine puts down 235rwhp and not designed to handle 350+rwhp!
d. You can't wait to read my kill stories again. Sorry, got off topic.

Now for the short list, yes it does exists. If you don't want to listen to the advice above, at least buy these at the bare minimum:

Connecting rods
Pistons
ARP Main studs/Head studs
Rod+Main, Bearings
Overhaul Gasket Kit
Rear Main Oil Seal
NGK one step colder plugs
Boost gauge
Oil Press gauge
EGT Gauge
AFR gauge
Clutch Upgraded
And the following depending on boost levels:
AAM Fuel Return System
Bigger fuel injectors

Okay, you survived reading my post. I hope I have taught you a couple of things along the way and as always I more than welcome questions, comments, corrections, and money. J/K. We are all here to learn about those wonderful little money pits we call "Our Zs". [post_title] => 350Z / G35 Twin turbo installation guide [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-g35-twin-turbo-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:22:24 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:22:24 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [64] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1322 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Before Modifying your Z By: Jeff Wisener (Posted with the authors full knowledge and permission.) So you want to modify your 350Z?Read this first! 1. Define your goal. Are you simply trying to make your car look nicer, building it for street racing, drag racing, autoX, track, or a show car. Maybe it is a combination of more than just one of these, if so, be sure which one is more important because they may conflict each other. 2. Set your budget. You could easily spend in excess of $25, 000 on mods if you went with upgraded suspension, wheels and tires, and a Twin Turbo alone. Someone recently asked himself why he was spending so much money on modifying his 350Z when he could have purchase a Z06 Vette that will out perform his Z and the Vette would still have the factory warranty. Know what you want to achieve and how much you are willing to spend before beginning to modify your car. 3. Determine if you are willing to void your warranty from Nissan. Many suspension mods void anything related to suspension so if you spend $2000 on coilover suspension, be ready to accept that Nissan will not fix your tire feathering problems found on many 350Z after 5000 miles with anything but stock or NISMO S suspension. 4. Determine how much of a risk taker you are. A lot of people would love to have 500hp but how concerned are you about reliability. Your car has been designed stock to provide good performance with reliability. Nissan told their engineers to design the 350Z motor to last 200,000 miles. As a general rule, the more hp, the less reliability although some would argue that fact. 5. How long will you keep your 350Z? In many cases, most modifications do not bring higher resale and in many situations depreciate the cars value. I have already seen several nice 350Z’s with modifications of over $10,000 and then be sold off for parts bringing penny’s on a dollar due to people selling their 350Z months after modifying it. Ask yourself how long you plan to keep a 2 seater sports car. For most young couples, when the baby comes, the 350Z goes. Once you have considered items 1-5 above, now you are ready to begin modifying your car. The list I will make below is just a simple overview of each category. You should read up on each area using the search option and get a lot of good advice in many threads. There are many experienced members on line that have specific expertise in areas such as stereo or wheels and tires. Use their knowledge and leave your ego off line. All of us can learn from someone else. If you need my opinion on something, feel free to pm me and I will do what I can to help you. I suggest you begin modifying your Z in the following order: 1. Protecting your paint job: In case you did not know, the 350Z is known for paint chipping in the front bumper. It will happen within the first 1-2000 miles and I doubt you will get it covered under warranty. I strongly suggest you think about protecting your paint. I do not personally like black bras on the front. I like the clear bra type product which provides a clear film of protection to prevent chipping, just like provided in front of your rear wheel well by Nissan from the factory but this is a thinner material. There are different brands of course and I picked one and I am happy with it. Maybe you will pick another product and find it is excellent as well? My only suggestion is get it from a certified installer of this type of product. That does not mean a window tint installer. Just because you can tint windows does not mean you can apply a clear bra. 2. Tinting windows. Do a search on find out what percentage of tinting is legal in your state. This is another cheap modification that can be done right away. 3. Tires and wheels: This is a great place to start doing the bigger type of modifications. It will enhance the appearance and performance of your car and for the most part will not negatively affect reliability. If you are adding a body kit to your car, it would be wise to decide which one and how if any this affects your wheel and tire selection. You don’t need to know as much about wheels and tires to select them (as compared to designing a twin turbo for your car) although there are many issues to consider but even if you make a choice based on personal taste, you wont blow up your motor! Wheels: If you are most interested in looks, 19” might be your best bet. Just remember the 2 negatives of 19” tires. Negative #1 is you will run a very low profile tire thus more likely to bend a wheel (and ride a little rougher). Negative #2: weight of wheel is greater and for every 6lbs you add to a wheel/tire, you lose 1 hp. If you want a combination of looks and performance, then 18" wheels might be a wise choice. You get a slightly lighter wheel thus a little more hp but it does not have as aggressive of a look as the 19” wheels. If you want the maximum performance then 17” wheels put the most hp to the ground. For those that want optimal appearance for the street and optimal track performance go with 19” street wheels and tires and separate 17” track wheels and tires. Again, what is your goal and budget? Tires: The most common tire size upgrade is to a 245 ft tire and 275 rears. Notice the rears are larger than the front to maintain the understeer/oversteer issue. Your stock wheels will not accommodate this big of a tire thus read up on what size wheel works for the tires you want to put on your car. I strongly suggest you use this website http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html This site will tell you how much difference there is between your stock tire and tire you desire. If you increase or decrease your tire size over 3% of stock size (in outsize rolling diameter) it will affect your ABS braking system and VDC. Simply put, your car will sense the back wheels are rotating too quickly for example and the ECU will think you are spinning your tires/losing traction which will possibly cause your car to brake or cut off the throttle. I recommend you keep the margin within 1.5%. I went with larger tires, 265 fronts and 295 rears. This is not as wise a choice for performance if you plan on maintaining the stock motor however if you plan on adding at least 100 hp, it might be something to consider. You need to be careful going with this large a tire combination. Your wheel offset must be just right or your tires will rub against the fenders. Mine don’t but I did my homework. 4. Suspension: Now that you got your wheels and tires, you might think that gap between your fender and wheel is too big! In addition, most of these suspension upgrades tend to get rid of that annoying freeway hop found on stock 350Z’s. For many, the biggest added bonus is improved handling. If handling is important to you, add stiffer sway bars while you are adding suspension. Again just as with Wheels and tires, suspension options are on the market now so why not start here before adding hp. Here are your options: Springs: Companies like Eibach and B&G have springs that will lower your car and make it look great. Costs on these springs are about $200-$250. There are strings attached. Eibachs lower your car 1.2” in the rear and .8” in the front and remember, anything over .8” drop will make your camber impossible to be within factory camber specifications. You can drive it with springs only and lose up to 20% tire life (inside edge of tire will wear out first) or get camber kits. These kits will cost you in excess of $400 for just rears or fronts. If you add these camber kits to the cost of the springs, this option is not as cheap as you might first think. Another negative of lowering beyond .8” is going over speed bumps and bottoming out. This option is good for those whose priority is looks. Make sure to get a 4 wheel alignment after installing springs. Spring/shock combo: Right now, the number one option in this group is NISMO S suspension. Cost about $1300-$1800 depending on the vendor and most will ship them to you. The suspension lowers the Z about .8” thus no camber issues, no need to get alignment after install either. This gets rid of fwy bounce as well. NISMO maintains factory warranty and handles very well on street as well as track. The negative of this option compared to Coil-over springs is lack of adjustment in height, ride hardness, etc. Coilovers: Cost varies from about $1600 to over $2000. You can control ht and ride. Teins even have a feature called EDFC which allows you to adjust ride hardness within the car as you are driving. You can preset it to 3 levels too such as casual driving, aggressive street, and track. JIC’s seem to be the choice of those with track being their number one priority but remember it is stiff so if you don’t want to feel the road, consider something else besides JIC’s. These are just two options, every month new coil-overs are being introduced to the market. Maybe SportZ magazine will have a shoot out on different suspension systems later like they did on exhausts and it might make the choice of selecting a suspension system an easier task then it is right now. 5. Stereo: The stock stereo is weak, many are not happy with the Bose as well. Many good options on stereos are available right now so you can’t go wrong. This might be your first choice to modify your car. After all, what is better than listening to good tunes in your new Z? There too many speakers, amps, and head units to list and compare in a brief overview. Again, read up on the options you have, and ask questions. Many people have upgraded their stereo already including me and would be more than willing to advise you. I had a sub woofer enclosure made that I feel is one of the best modifications I have done to date. Again, do your homework to get the desired effect. 6. Brakes: Before adding a lot of hp, you might want to consider being able to stop your car better. Both the stock brakes and the brembo's found on the Track model are excellent brakes. If all you are planning on doing is driving on the street and braking hard only during emergencies, than your stock brakes are as good as you need. With that being said, then why should you consider upgrading your brakes? Two reasons; the most important being if you do repeated hard braking on mountain roads or on a track, you might experience brake fade which simply means that as the brakes heat up, they take longer to stop. The more they heat up, the less they stop. The best way to determine if you need brakes upgraded is to track it. I drove my Z at the track for 30 minutes on, 30 minutes off all day long. Even after that, it took all day for them to begin to fade. In other words, who might need better brakes but unless you brake hard frequently, you most likely don’t. Another reason to upgrade brakes has nothing to do with stopping, it is for looks. Many of the people that upgrade to 15” brake kits are doing so for looks. As I stated before, 17” wheels are optimal for tracking your car. 17” wheels can only accommodate 13” rotors thus adding 14” or 15” brake kits force you to track your Z with less than optimal tires and wheels. 13” rotors on most after market brake kits will meet all your stopping needs on the street and track. If you are never going to run 17” wheels, knock yourself out and get those bigger kits if you like, they look awesome. Brembo, Stoptech, AP, and others all have kits starting at about $1700 for front brakes. You can get a 4 wheel brake set but the front brakes are the most critical. You might want to consider changing your brake lines and fluid as a cheaper alternative than an entire brake kit. 7. Drive train/Engine modifications: I listed this category towards the end for good reason. The first reason you should be getting use to your car in stock form and learning its limits before adding hp. I felt I need to add hp to my Z the very first day I drove it off the dealer lot. Not until I took it to a track did I realize the full capabilities of my 350Z. I found that while I was driving it, the main performance modification needed to be modified was me, being the driver learning how to drive it to its full potential. Honestly, if you care anything about performance, you should take your Z to the track. No matter how aggressive you drive on the street, driving it on a track allows you to push it much harder and in a safe environment. Besides that, it is a blast to do. There are new options in this group being released almost daily. Just in this month alone (November 2003), the Vortec SC is being released; the Greddy TT is now taking new orders. Several other SC and TT kits are scheduled to be released within 1-2 months. Waiting a little bit to add other modifications is not a bad idea. Let’s go over the options: NOS: Do you want cheap HP and your desire is to beat that Mustang next to you? NOS is an option you should consider. Some people dislike it but no one can disagree that it adds hp for short bursts and does it cheaply. NA: Some people think real engines are Naturally Aspired (NA). For those people, NOS is just flat cheating and SC and TT cars are better but have limitations. Every one of these options has pros and cons or there would only be one option. Here are the pros/cons of NA: SC and TT may have a tendency to run hotter. There is a question of reliability when you FI a motor. The 350Z VQ motor was designed as a high compression motor yet FI motors run optimally as low compression. With a NA motor, you do not have the “turbo lag” often found on TT. This turbo lag can be an enemy on the track. Most people that decide to add hp by NA often state it as being more dependable and predictable on a track. The negative is cost. Expect to spend approximately $5000 to add 50-60 hp. In addition, as soon you you add cams, your motor warranty is void, even if it is a NISMO cam because the NISMO cams are type R which is for racing thus no warranty as compared to type S which are for street and maintain the factory warranty. Typical NA mods include exhaust and headers, cams, pulleys, air intakes, and plenum. Remember, don’t add a plenum and then decide to get a Dream Workes or Stillen supercharger because you will simply be taking off the plenum you just purchased. You got to make up your mind if you are going NA, SC, or TT before you begin modifying your motor unless you like wasting money. Superchargers: There are two types of FI, Superchargers (SC) and turbos which are most often twin turbos (TT) on 350Z’s. A lot of debate is covered on various threads concerning advantages and disadvantages of SC vs. TT. Some people tend to be very pro – supercharger and others are pro TT. I will try to be as objective as possible but I am sure my opinion will differ from others. Supercharger kits typically run about $4800-$6000 + installation takes anywhere from 8-20 hours labor depending on the kit thus figure at least another $1000 in labor to install. All of the kits either come with an intercooler (IC) or can be added as an option to the base kit. I strongly suggest you get the IC since it keeps the motor running cooler and cooling is a major issue for any FI motor. The two most common types of SC used on the Z are the centrifugal SC and the Root type SC. The ATI Procharger and Vortec SC are the most popular centrifugal SC available currently. Both of these kits put out approximately 350-370 rear wheel hp (RWHP) at 7 psi of boost. Adding the approximate 17% loss from the crank to the wheels, that would equal about 409 to 432 rwhp. This is a significant jump over the 287 crank hp (approximately 230-245 rwhp found on a stock 350Z). Both of these kits void the engine warranty by Nissan unless you can find a dealer that will sell you them installed on the car when it is new. The significant difference between the centrifugal SC and the root is the centrifugal SC does not have full boost until you reach higher rpm’s. To be simplistic, a centrifugal SC has 1 psi of boost per 1000rpm being the peak boost is 7 psi. Boost increases hp thus a centrifugal SC really kicks in when it is above 4500 rpm since it is then approaching full boost/ peak hp. The other type of SC is the root. The only current root SC available is made by Stillen. Dream Workes (DW) is scheduled to release a root type SC in January of 2004. The root blower is position on top of the motor as compared to the centrifugal SC that is located off to the side of the motor. The Stillen SC sets so high on top of the motor that to install it, the strut brace has to be removed reducing handling and the hood has to be cut out and a scoop added or an entire hood has to be installed. The soon to be released DW SC is designed to use the stock hood and maintain the strut. Both of these root type SC have full boost at low to high rpm thus more low end grunt. These SC kits tend to put out less peak hp by approximately 20-30hp but advocates of the root type blower will say that the root SC provides you with more power where you need it rather than a little more hp right before you shift. The Stillen SC will provide you with an engine warranty if you do not boost it over 5.5 psi but then you will be putting out approximately the same hp as a built NA motor. DW plans on offering their SC with 400 crank hp (approximately 330 rwhp) with a full drive train warranty and be the first to offer CARB legal installation which means that owners in California can pass smog with their SC Z’s. In addition, they plan on having upgrades to further increase hp but the warranty will be voided. Stillen has just released an IC for their Sc kit which creates more hp. the warranty would be void with this set up so it comes down to hp vs risk level. that is a choice you must make based on your needs and comfort level. With all of these FI kits, tuning and boost seem to be critical issues related to reliability. I cannot stress enough that you should get an experienced tuner to install these kits. Before doing that, you should read hours and hours of posts and anything else you can get your hands on before selecting a kit and an installer. Do your research and ask a lot of questions before you decide on a kit. If you raise the boost, most of these SC kits have the capability to exceed 500hp. The other side of the coin is if you raise the boost, are you keeping within the specifications of the kit your purchased? Even adding a simple addtional modification might cause problems with a FI kit. Be sure to talk in detail to the manufacture and installer before doing anything. Something you might think is ok to do might not be ok and cost you thousands of dollars to repair. As with turbos, I strong suggest that if you exceed 7psi of boost, you consider modifying your pistons, rods etc to maintain durability. Twin Turbos: for the person that wishes to build the ultimate hp capable in the VQ, the TT is their most likely choice. Boost can be modified on a SC by changing the pulley but it is simpler and quicker in the TT. You simply dial it in sitting in the driver seat. The two most commonly discussed TT kits currently are the Greddy TT and Power Enterprise TT (PE). Both of these kits cost approximately $7-8000 and then installation needs to be added to that cost. The TT has the potential to exceed 800hp. Before you dream of just turning up the boost to get those numbers, strongly consider building the internal portion of your motor to accommodate that power output. You better know what you are doing if you are putting out this much hp. An improperly tuned motor putting out this much hp is a time bomb waiting to explode. Since all of these SC and TT kits have either been just out a couple of months or not even out yet, the reliability of these kits are not proven to MY personal satisfaction. Large debates over how much boost can be given to each kit goes on daily. To be blunt, everyone has their opinion but the fact is no one knows what is a safe level of boost yet. Motors will be blown up defining those limits. Some argue the VQ is extremely limited in the amount of boost it can take, others feel it is a question of proper tuning and once tuners get a better handle on the ECU (car computer) and can control the fuel management, they will be able to safely increase boost to higher levels. Because of the introduction of new kits monthly and the issues of safe boost and tuning, I again caution you to modify your wheels, tires, stereo, and suspension first until these issues are resolved. If you know more than me and feel comfortable doing it now, then that is fine as long as you know enough to make an educated choice with your money. A lot of people will tell you to go for it, that is easy to do when it is you taking the risk with your money. In my opinion, if you want only 400 – 435 crank hp and you are on a budget, the SC kit might be a wise choice. If you are desiring the ability to exceed 500hp with unlimited options in tuning, the TT kit may be a better choice for you assuming you can afford it. 8. ECU: Several companies are working on improving the ECU. It is set from Nissan at safe levels for availability of gas (91 octane or higher) and different climates and altitudes. Nissan sets the ECU to safe limits for all of its owner’s not maximum hp output for car enthusiasts like many of us on this site. People that modify their cars for maximum hp tend to want to push those margins of safety closer to the limits of what are considered safe for most consumers. You can expect modest hp gains from an ECU being reprogrammed on a stock Z. An ECU preprogrammed for a FI or built NA motor will most likely result in higher hp gains than stock. Companies such as Techno Square (TS) are currently reprogramming ECU’s now. I am sure other companies will enter this market soon. 9. Other drive train modifications: After adding 100hp by FI to your motor, you will most likely be forced to replace the clutch to be able to accommodate that power. In addition, some like a lighter flywheel instead of stock. The bottom line is your 350Z was designed to accommodate 287 crank hp. The more hp you add, the greater strain you are adding to your entire drive train. The fact is, the weakest link breaks thus if you are putting out additional 100 hp and rev your motor to 3000rpm and drop the clutch, something might break since it was not designed to handle that power. I hope this helps you. I tried to be specific enough to give you a basic idea of options you have in modifying your 350Z. Of course, I did not get too specific assuming you need to do some research on your own. I know there are many experienced individuals that have more experience in modifying cars on this website than myself. They can add suggestions to this post and even disagree if they like with portions of what I have written. The intent was to provide a new 350Z owner with a basic understanding of what can be done to modify their 350Z with the hope of doing so without regret in their decisions. This thread was not written to debate with experienced 350Z owners over fine details of modifications. The best answer I have read regarding why you should modify your 350Z is because you are enjoying doing so. There will always be a faster car than a 350Z be it a M3, Vette, Viper, or a number of supercars on the market. I always wanted a 300TT Z but could not afford it at the time. Now, I can afford a Z so I am doing what I dreamed of doing years ago. Z06 Vettes and 911TT are awesome but that is not my dream. Maybe the cost of those cars new is just more than I want to expend? If I can build a 350Z and it performs close to the performance of those cars, I will be happy. The more I modify my Z, the more it reflects my personality and tastes. Some guys like blonds, others redheads. I guess some guys are muscle car types and me, I am a Z type guy. It is all personal taste. That is why some of us have CS, SS, while others have brickyards. Is one better than the other? To me no, but one is better for someones personal taste. I have been recently been hired by SportZ magazine (months after I first posted this thread). With this new postion come the opportunity to provide articles that will give Z owners another source for information in selecting aftermarket products through comparing products in tests that measure their performance. I am sure these comparisions will not show clear "winners" all the time since selecting a product must be defined by what you personallly want it to do. When selecting an exhaust, are you looking for sound quality, hp gains, torque gains, warranty, or appearance? If warranty is your top objective, a certain exhaust might be the winner in your opinion as compared to hp gain or even weight of the exhaust. The brief overview I gave on this thread cannot replace your own research. If I am able, I will do my best to influence SportZ magazine to create more comparsions much like the exhaust shoot out they wrote. Good luck and enjoy your 350Z be it stock or modded. [post_title] => Everything you need to know before you modify your 350Z [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-performance [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:58:19 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:58:19 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [65] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1323 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Written by M3Racer, special thanks to http://www.datsun.org On March 15, 1967, Datsun introduced the Datsun Sports 2000, more commonly referred to as the Datsun 2000. This 2 liter roadster came from a long line of Datsun roadsters, the first of which was built in 1932, which is when the company’s name was changed from Datson to Datsun. The official model series identification for left-hand-drive 2000’s was SRL311. Many debate over how many 2000’s were produced in the first production year. Some believe that there were only 1000 for the first year, while others claim that there were 1000 left-hand-drive models and another 1000 right-hand-drive models, bringing the total number to 2000 made in the first year, which was from March until November of 1967. Some collectors argue that the 1967 models were the most desirable. This was due to a better-looking windshield, which was two inches lower then those on all later models. 1967 models were equipped with a “flat dash” as seen on previous models. 1967 was also the first and last year the 2000 was not required to meet any DOT or EPA standards. This allowed for a factory option known as the Solex kit to be installed. With the Solex Competition kit, power was bumped to 150hp. The upgrade consisted of dual Mikuni/Solex carburetors, a Solex camshaft, and a seven quart finned aluminum oil pan for improved cooling. Original Solex models are very rare and very desirable. However, for the same reason of the uncertainty surrounding how many were produced, it is difficult to identify an original Solex model. No models in the U.S. came with 150hp ID tags, and thus, it is impossible to determine an original Solex in the U.S. without the original owner or consulting the original window sticker. Unlike the classic American cars of the era, which had serial number plates on heads, blocks, alternators, and other mechanical parts, documentation was unimportant to Nissan, whom was still attempting to get a proper footing in the U.S. market. Because of this, numbers matching roadsters are not super desirable like American cars at the time. However, roadsters sold outside of Japan had a serial number stamped onto the block and an engine number tag. Models with the engine number and the number in the block identical are considered to be “numbers matching.” These cars demand a premium over non-matching or unstamped models. How do I determine the paint code of my Datsun 2000? The paint color code was stamped on a label under the hood to the left of the ID plate. However, it is not unheard of in any way for this stamp to be missing. If it is, the number can be found under the carpet on the transmission tunnel or on the inside of the firewall. Reproduction color labels can be purchased for reasonable prices once the number is determined. How can I tell if a car is an authentic 1967 model? Although it is very uncommon, some have converted their 1967 1600’s to 2000’s in an attempt to scam potential buyers. One way to spot a fake is by examining the ID tag. 2000’s will have a chassis code beginning with SLR311. Insure both the chassis and engine begins with this, instead of SPL311, which was for 1600’s. A very obvious way would be to examine the dash. 1600’s had 120mph speedometers and 7000rpm tachometers instead of the 2000’s, which had 160mph speedometers and an 8000rpm tachometer. In 1968, the roadsters were changed. The DOT mandated that there be a certain area swept by the windshield wipers. Therefore, the windshield was raised two inches to meet this requirement, as well as to resolve complaints about lack of head room in larger Americans. The dash was changed to meet passenger safety regulations, which also led to the disappearance of toggle switches. The door handles were recessed due to complaints of pedestrians being injured in low speed accidents by the 1967 door handles. Additional changes included a windshield mounted rear view mirror that replaced a dash mounted mirror, new body panels, floor, and cowl. Also, the fuse box was now placed in the glove compartment instead of under the hood. Specs for the 1969 Datsun 2000 roadster: Engine Location: Front Drive type: Rear wheel Weight: 1980 lbs. Combined MPG: 22 0-60 mph: 8.4 seconds Top speed: 108 mph Engine: I-4 Model: U20 Solid Valve lifters Aspiration/Induction: Natural Displacement: 1982.00 cc Valvetrain: SOHC HP: 135 HP @ 6000.00 RPM Torque: 132 ft-lbs @4400.00 RPM HP to weight: 14.7 LB/HP HP / Liter: 67.5 BHP / Liter Bore: 87.1 mm Stroke: 83.1 mm Compression Ration: 9.5:1 Electronics: 12-volt electrical Fuel type: Gasoline – Petrol Fuel feed: Two SU-type carburetors Block: Cast-iron Head: Aluminum Transmission: 5-Speed Manual with synchromesh gears Final Drive: 3.70:1 Length: 155.701 inches Width: 58.901 inches Height: 52.201 inches Wheelbase: 89.901 in [post_title] => The History of the 1967 Datsun 2000 Roadster [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 1967-datsun-roadster-article [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-02-11 00:18:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-02-11 07:18:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [66] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1324 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Overview

So why do people use synthetic motor oils rather than sticking with the old petroleum based stand-bys which are admittedly cheaper?

1. Let's start with the cost per quart issue.

Synthetic motor oils ARE more expensive at purchase. However, these oils last longer, requiring fewer oil changes. As a synthetic motor oil outlasts several changes of petroleum based lubricants, the ultimate out-of-pocket cost of the lubricant is less. This cost savings becomes even greater if you have someone else change your oil for you rather than doing it yourself!

2. Viscosity Index and Viscosity Breakdown

Synthetic motor oils have a higher initial viscosity index and less viscosity breakdown as compared to conventional lubricants. They also have more uniformly sized molecules. This means that over the period of life of the oil, more lubrication, hence less heat and more protection is being provided to the engine. In other words, longer engine life.

3. Conventional Oil Contaminants

Petroleum based oils may contain ingredients not found in synthetic motor oils. These ingredients often have nothing to do with the lubrication of the engine, but exist simply because it is too expensive or too complicated to remove them. The breakdown of these ingredients can result in sludge and other contamination. This not only affects the performance of the engine and its components, but contributes to pollution as well. While petroleum based lubricants are, as the words imply, "refined" from a "crude" product, there is a certain level of variability of product as well. Synthetic motor oils, on the other hand, are engineered to be of consistent quality. Additionally, they can be designed for specific purposes. For example, synthetic varieties can be found for the family car, race cars, motorcycles, chain saws, and diesel trucks.

4. Fuel Economy

Because of their ability to lubricate better and last longer, synthetic motor oils help your engine operate more efficiently and easily, therefore requiring less fuel to accomplish a given amount of work. This is money in your pocket, and, since the benefits of the oil's effectiveness extend longer, this is the gift that keeps on giving.

5. Overall Return on Investment

Regular use of synthetic motor oil means lower maintenance costs across the board, not just in terms of the oil changes themselves. Engines and engine components simply tend to last longer. It has long been known that one of the most important acts a car owner could perform to prolong the life of his or her car while lowering overall maintenance costs was to perform regular oil changes. When synthetic motor oil is used and changed on a regular schedule, the synergistic affect of lower lubrication costs, plus lower fuel costs, plus lower maintenance costs, plus longer engine and component life adds up to a tidy amount, not to mention the sales or trade value of the vehicle that has been kept in this manner.

6. Improved Cold Start Lubrication

Due to the lack of ingredients such as wax or paraffin, which may be found in conventional oils, synthetic motor oils begin flowing effectively throughout the engine much more rapidly in cold weather. Again, this results in lower engine wear and longer engine life.

7. Environmental and Political Benefits

Less dependence on foreign oil. If all cars in America switched to synthetic motor oils, gear lubes, and drive train lubricants, billions of gallons of oil could be saved every year.

So, use of synthetic motor oils can save you money by making your engine and other components last longer, require less maintenance, and use less fuel. Repair costs will be reduced, your vehicle will last longer and perform more effectively. You will be contributing to the environment while reducing America's dependence on foreign oil. [post_title] => Should I Switch to Synthetic Oil? [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => switch-to-synthetic-oil [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:03:35 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:03:35 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [67] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1325 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => "The 'M' has a "DIAGNOSTIC MODE" that is not documented.

Follow these steps to enter [at your own risk] into the diagnostic mode.

- Start Engine [required if you want to see all available diagnostic options]
- Turn OFF the Audio system
- While pushing the SETTING button, rotate the radio's VOLUME control either clockwise or counter-clockwise 30+ clicks.
- You will then be put into the diagnostic mode.
- Use the BACK button to get to previous screens.

NOTE:
Holding down the SETTING button and rotating the volume knob a 2nd time will put the diagnostic mode into a more "detailed" state offering more options.

------

Diagnostic Mode - CELL PHONE VOLUME

One potential use of the diagnostic mode is to improve the sound quality of your cell phone.

- The diagnostic mode has an option "Handsfree Volume Adjustment".
- The default setting for this option is "MED".
- Setting the volume to "HIGH" may improve the sound quality of your bluetooth compatible cell phone.

------

Diagnostic Mode - BACKUP CAMERA

The Diagnostic Mode has an option to adjust the BACKUP CAMERA.

- While cruising in your 'M', you can enter the Diagnostic Mode [see above] and go to the "Backup Camera" adjustment screen. When you are in this menu, the Backup Camera turns on.

NOTE:FOr obvious reasons, this is not recommended while driving.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Additional Information

While this mode is accessible to all modifying the setting for the rear camera will have an effect on the operation of the system and should only be done by qualified personal. Other than that the main function of the Confirmation and Adjustments menu are to monitor the AV system and the integrity of the common communication lines. The details vary greatly by year and the best advise that can be given is looking there is great, check the AV comm log, but a false reading does not mean that there is a problem, just a momentary break in communication. This assists technicians while diagnosing advanced or intermittent AV concerns.

A precaution from Infiniti, from the Factory Service Manual.

Multi AV System Diagnosis Functions
There are 2 diagnosis functions (On board diagnosis and Diagnosis using CONSULT-II). It is necessary to use them properly according to the condition. If the on board diagnosis starts, perform diagnosis with on board diagnosis. If the on board diagnosis does not start (because the display is not displayed, the multifunction switch operation is not activated, etc.), perform diagnosis using CONSULT-II.

At on board diagnosis, the AV (NAVI) control unit diagnosis function starts when multifunction switch operation and the AV (NAVI) control unit performs the diagnosis for each unit of system. Then, it displays the
results on the display.

At diagnosis using CONSULT-II, the AV (NAVI) control unit diagnosis function starts when the CAN communication and the AV (NAVI) control unit performs the diagnosis for each unit of system.

On Board Diagnosis
DESCRIPTION

It has Self-Diagnosis mode for conducting trouble diagnosis automatically and a Confirmation/Adjustment mode for operating manually.

Self-diagnosis mode diagnoses AV (NAVI) control unit and communication of each unit composing system, and displays self-diagnosis results. NAVI control unit diagnoses communication with GPS antenna simultaneously.

Confirmation/Adjustment mode is used to monitor the vehicle signals requiring operation and judgment by a technician (malfunctions that cannot be automatically judged by the system), the confirmation/ change/adjustment of setting value, the error history of system, and the communication condition of system. [post_title] => Infiniti M35 / M45 Secret Diagnostic Mode [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-m35-m45-diagnostic-mode [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 12:15:18 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 19:15:18 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [68] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1326 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => if your bumper is uneven because one or both sides are pushed in, this is for you.

used for example, is my 1980 datsun 200sx.

the theory:

similar to how your vehicle sits on gas charged shock absorbers, so sits your bumper
on gas charged shocks as well. depending on who you talk to, this is called a bumper
shock or bumper absorber. the bumper shock is mounted between the bumper's
core bar and the vehicle's frame. the bumper shock compresses and absorbs much
of the impact experienced in low speed collisions. with dual purpose, this prevents
damage to the bumper itself and also to the vehicle's frame.

warnings and materials:

because these absorbers are gas charged you want to be careful when handling
or removing one which has been depressed. if the shock were to suddenly return
to its original position, it would do so with force. approach it with proper caution
and you should have no issue.

the setting : an ample work space
the tools : ratcheting socket wrench, a 17mm socket and a 10mm hex driver socket.

the bumper bar is mounted directly onto the shocks via one 10mm hex bolt per side.
the bolt runs through an end piece which mounts at 4 points and is removable from
the bumper bar. for you to be able to remove the bumper, it should only require the
removal of the 10mm hex bolts and not the end piece itself.

get underneath the bumper, and using your ratchet with the 10mm hex socket,
locate and then loosen the hex bolts securing the bumper bar to the shock absorbers.

when you remove the hex bolts, remember that if your bumper is like
mine, there will be wiring for the turn signals and running lights which you will have to
unplug from the harness before fully removing the bumper from the absorber mounts.

once the bumper is removed, observe the shock positioning, you should easily be able
to recognize which side is off by the position of the shock body in the mount.

some pictures shown for reference of damage :

due to the slight difference in length between the 1980 and 1983 bumper shock
I will be replacing both sides as opposed to just the damaged one.

locate the four 17mm bolts securing the bumper shock's flat mount to the vehicle frame.

using your 17mm socket remove all 4 bolts, keeping your face out of the shock's
line of fire.

to replace is simply reversing the removal procedure.

and here it is with the bumper back on, shown against the original for reference.

hope this helps someone, good luck! [post_title] => How to adjust or replace Datsun bumper shocks [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => bumper-shocks-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-02-11 01:24:24 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-02-11 08:24:24 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [69] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1327 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: tangalora One morning, my 1990 Infiniti Q45 (125K miles) wouldn't start: The 4.5 liter 8-cylinder engine cranked wonderfully, but would not catch. It wasn't the starter motor nor the battery (as it rotated perfectly). As always, it had to be either gas, air, spark, compression, or timing. Following is an idealized path others can follow to debug & repair. Note: Re-assembly, in all cases, is the reverse of the dis-assembly procedures described below. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1. I ran a quick visual/audible gas, air, spark, compression & timing check: GAS: The gas tank was completely full (filled the night before). The 15 amp fuel pump fuse was intact (replaced it anyway). I could NOT hear the fuel pump humming (at any time). AIR: The air intake & air filter were not clogged (left it open). SPARK: I did not know how to run a quick test for spark. COMPRESSION: The engine did sound like cylinder wash (no compression?). TIMING: The camshaft rotated (looking in the oil-filler hole). ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2. I soon realized no gasoline was being pumped INTO the fuel filter: - I removed the 15 amp fuel pump fuse (by the driver-side right kneecap); - I cranked the engine in order to release any residual fuel pressure; - I removed the two 10mm bolts holding the fuel filter clamp to the body; - I removed the two #2 phillips screws holding the fuel filter hoses on; - I replaced the 15 amp fuel pump fuse and cranked the engine again. - No gasoline spurted out of the open fuel line hose. Note: One clue was that, after an overnight sitting, with the fuel filter and activated carbon fuel canister still on the car, the engine started for a split second. This happened for two mornings. I suspect this momentary ignition was due to the burning of fuel fumes collecting in the fuel system over long periods of time. Note: I blew through my fuel filter and there was almost no resistance; so, despite the fact almost everyone says that a clogged fuel filter can cause the fuel pump to overwork and therefore heat up and therefore melt the solder connections on the fuel pump control unit, I suspect a clogged fuel filter was not my problem. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3. I studied the 1990 Q45 fuel system electrical & hydraulic circuits: ELECTRICAL: - Battery voltage goes to the fuel pump relay ... - to the fuel pump (in the gas tank) ... - to the fuel pump control unit (under the rear sundeck platform) ... - which provides three resistive paths (fuel pump speeds) to ground ... - based on input from the engine control unit (passenger side dash). HYDRAULIC: - Fuel is pumped out of the fuel tank ... - to the inlet of the fuel filter ... - to the fuel line & fuel plenum ... - to each of the 8 fuel injectors (which open at the same time) ... - with pressure regulated by the 43 psi fuel pressure regulator ... - which sends unspent fuel back to the fuel tank for recovery ... - and which allows fuel vapors to be trapped in the carbon cannister. LOCATIONS: - The fuel tank is located in the center of the trunk room (between the rear seat and the trunk). - The fuel pump & fuel pump resistive gage & filter sock is located in the top of the fuel tank. - The fuel pump control unit is located on the underside of the rear metal sundeck (near the rear passenger side speaker housing). - The fuel pump relay (lime green) is located next to the antenna and fuel tank gasoline inlet in the area between the rear passenger side fender and the rear passenger side trunk fiberboard lining. - The fuel filter is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment bolted to the inside of the passenger side fender wall. ACCESS: - Access the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel pump control unit, & the related fuel system harnesses for test from the rear trunk area. - Access the fuel pump for removal & replacement either by removing the rear seat & sundeck & storage binnacle or by dropping the fuel tank (rear seat removal access is preferred over tank removal by most). TERMINOLOGY: - The harness connector (white, female) to the fuel pump control unit is called the fuel pump control unit harness connector. - The harness connector (green) to the fuel pump relay is called the fuel pump relay harness connector. - The harness connector (blue, female) to the fuel pump is called the fuel pump harness connector. Likewise: - The connector (white, male) on the fuel pump control unit is called the fuel pump control unit connector. - The connector (green) on the fuel pump relay is called the fuel pump relay. - The connector (blue, male) to the fuel pump is called the fuel pump connector. TOOLS: - Two #2 phillips screwdrivers (one six inch, & one two inch stubby). - Two box wrenches (one 8 mm box & one 10mm) for bracket bolts. - One 19 mm open-end wrench (for the gas tank fuel line lock nuts). - One 16 AWG wire, about a foot long, with an alligator clip on each end. - One volt-ohm-amp-meter (Fluke 77 or equivalent) with alligator clips. - One needle-nose pliar or standard pliars (for spring-closed hose clamps). - One paring knife (or similar) for removal of sound-proofing material. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4. The fuel pump relay checked out OK for proper operation under load: FROM THE TRUNK: - I removed the trunk room fiberboard bulkhead (between the rear seat back & the trunk) by removing the 7 black #2 phillips screw-type butterfly anchor clips holding the fiberboard bulkhead to the steel supports. - I removed the trunk passenger-side bulkhead (between the trunk and the rear fender by the radio antenna & fuel filler opening) by removing the 5 black #2 phillips screw-type butterfly anchor clips from their supports. - I removed the single 10mm bolt holding the two-pronged relay bracket which held a blue relay (courtesy lamp relay) on one prong and a lime-green (fuel pump relay) relay on the other. - I pulled the lime-green fuel pump relay off the bracket tang. - I jumped 12 volts DC across pins #1 and #2 (hearing a sharp click). - The resistance fell (from infinity) as the actuator closed (to zero). Note: I also checked power to the fuel pump relay, continuity from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump relay harness, continuity from the fuel pump relay harness to the fuel pump harness, & continuity from the fuel pump harness to the fuel pump control unit harness (all asp per the factory shop manual EF & EC-169); but, not surprisingly, I'm told the fuel pump relay and these fuel electrical system wires almost never go bad; so consider this entire step an ancillary case of over diagnosis. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5. The old fuel pump passed the basic factory shop manual test: FROM THE TRUNK: - I disconnected the fuel pump harness connector (blue, in the trunk room). - As per the factory shop manual (EF & EC-185), I checked the resistance between the top-left and the top-right (tab on top, facing terminal side) of the six male terminals on this fuel pump connector. - My resistance was 0.9 to 1.1 ohms which was inconclusive since the factory shop manual merely states the resistance to be 0.5 ohms but the factory shop manual does not supply a range value. Note: It seems this factory shop manual test is almost useless. When I tested the new fuel pump, it too tested about the same at 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. The online Infiniti mechanics noted the resistance test merely checks one (of many) commutators. Online mechanics say the clearest sign of a bad pump is HUMMING. I must admit, the new pump barely made a sound, even when jumped directly to ground providing it full battery voltage. I didn't realize it at the time, but, the old pump actually hummed loudly. (There is so much soundproofing that I never heard the old fuel pump motor hum until the rear trunk room lay bare & exposed.) Basic recommendation: If the fuel pump has 100K miles on it; or if the fuel pump is humming at all audibly; then replace it (before it burns out the ground wire on the fuel pump control unit). Note: The two most basic tests should have been (in hindsight): - Did the 1990 Infiniti Q45 have more than 100K miles? - Did the 1990 Infiniti Q45 fuel pump have an audible hum? If either answer were yes, then replace the '90 Q45 fuel pump. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6. The old fuel pump control unit failed the basic bypass test: FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT: - I reconnected the fuel filter (passenger side of the engine compartment). FROM THE TRUNK: - I reconnected the fuel pump harness connector (blue, in the trunk room). - I removed the fuel pump control unit harness connector (white, female) from the fuel pump control unit connector (white, male) mounted directly on the fuel pump control unit. - Note: Nothing else was removed at this time; the fuel system was otherwise completely intact. - I filed an alligator clip's teeth so that it fit into the small female tab on the bottom left (terminal side, with the clip up) of the white fuel pump control unit harness connector. - I connected the other side of the alligator-clip one foot long 16 AWG wire to a convenient ground (expecting from 7.5 amps to 15 amps based on fusing). - I turned the ignition to "ON" and listened for the fuel-pump humming. - It hummed for about 10 seconds after turning the ignition to ON. - I started the 1990 Infiniti Q45; it ran like a charm. - The current draw was about 5.8 amps on the old humming fuel pump. - The engine shut down approximately 2 seconds after disconnecting this fuel pump control unit bypass jumper. Note: I drove the car for more than a week (about 200 miles) with this alligator clip shorting the fuel pump to ground bypassing the three-position ([email protected] to 5.7 volts, [email protected] to 8.1 volts, & [email protected] to 14 volts battery voltage) fuel pump control unit settings. Note: Online mechanics estimate the old fuel pump might last a few weeks (running full speed as it is when jumpered to ground); while a new fuel pump may last a few months in this temporary full-power state. Note: It is recommended the fuel tank be kept full whenever operating the Infiniti Q45 in this state as the fuel pump is cooled by the gasoline in the fuel tank. Note: This is NOT the procedure in the factory shop manual (EF & EC-185). This procedure is much simpler than that in the factory shop manual. The procedure in the factory shop manual requires three test jigs, of four, five, and then six wires between the white female fuel pump control unit harness connector and the white male fuel pump control unit connector. In most cases, this test is overkill. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7. Reconcile yourself to the fact you have a few hours of work to perform: Q: Why? A: Because of these three basic facts. FACT 1: The first fact is that the proper removal of the fuel pump control unit is from the rear-seat direction & not from the (otherwise more convenient) trunk-forward direction. FACT 2: The second fact is that experienced Infiniti Q45 mechanics have concluded most fuel pump control unit failures are due to the fuel pump itself beginning to fail (and thereby to draw excessive current, which melts the weak solder joints on the ground wire printed circuit board connection on the fuel pump control unit). FACT 3: Therefore, if you merely replace or re-solder the broken fuel pump control unit, you'll eventually burn out the new or newly repaired (and much more expensive) fuel pump control unit. The good news is the Infiniti mechanics online have reported very few (if any) failures of the repaired or replaced fuel pump control unit once the fuel pump is replaced (for another 100K miles or so anyway). ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8. Remove the rear seats, rear sundeck shelf, and rear package binnacle: REMOVE REAR BENCH: - Move the front seats forward as far as they will go and tilt the front seat backs forward as far as they will go to obtain working room. - Locate the two black clip extensions on the rear seat floor area and pull out those two black clip extensions simultaneously pulling up on the leading edge of the rear seat bench to lift it upward and out. The rear seat bench removal requires no bolts to be removed. There are only four clips in the leading edge; and two clips in the trailing edge of the rear seat bench to take into account for removal. - Scavenge the $1.35 (on average) in loose change under the rear bench that the federal government suggests wreckers earn per car on wrecked cars. REMOVE REAR SEAT BACK: - Pop out or pry out (with a thin flathead screwdriver) the four blue solid butterfly anchor clips from the leading edge of the rear topside sundeck where the sundeck overlaps with the rear seatback. - Remove the two rear headrests by pressing the driver-side knob under each & simultaneously lifting upward until the posts clear the seatback. - Push down the rear seat armrest and pull back on the vertical backing which is velcroed to the steel bulkhead behind rear seat back. - Remove the two #2 phillips screws behind this velcroed rear armrest compartment. - Remove the four #2 phillips screws holding the U-brackets at the bottom of the rear seat back. - Pull up the rear seat back vertically, to clear three reverse-u-shaped wire brackets from their u-shaped metal brackets in the rear bulkhead metal wall. This should remove the seat (except for the seat belts). - Pull out the two side rear seat shoulder belts as far as they will go and jam a pen or other object to eliminate the return tension. The seat belts will be less of a nuisance if you perform this task. - Flip the rear seat back (still attached by the seat belts) upside down so that the foam side is facing the front & the leather side is facing the rear and the headrest portion is on the floor of the automobile. REMOVE REAR UPPER TAIL-LIGHT & REAR SUNDECK: - After removing the three blue solid butterfly clips on the leading edge of the rear sundeck ... - Pull toward the front and upward on the rear upper tail-lamp housing; and disconnect the rear upper tail-lamp harness connector from the rear upper tail-lamp connector. Remove the rear tail lamp housing. - Pull up on the rear sundeck everywhere you can to unclip the 11 solid white anchor clips (4 equally spaced in the rear, two in the middle on each side of the package binnacle, and 5 near the front of the sundeck shelf, three of which are closely spaced near the middle front of the sundeck shelf and the other two nearer the outside edges). - Collect all anchor clips in a zip-lock bag marked "rear shelf". REMOVE REAR SUNDECK PACKAGE BINNACLE: - With the rear upper tail-lamp & rear sundeck removed, unscrew the seven #2 phillips screws holding down the black plastic rear sundeck package binnacle (aka storage compartment basin). Note: This rear sundeck storage binnacle is the key to removing the fuel pump since the fuel pump (with the attached fuel pump float, fuel pump housing, fuel pump level gage, etc.), can only come out undamaged through the rectangle left by the removal of this rear sundeck storage binnacle (aka package binnacle). Note: Almost none of this removal procedure is explained in the factory shop manual. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9. Remove fuel pump assembly from the top of the fuel tank from the trunk: FROM THE TRUNK: - Disconnect the blue male fuel pump connector from the blue female fuel pump harness connector. - If you haven't done so already, bleed pressure out of the fuel system by cranking the engine with the fuel pump fuse (driver side dash, by your kneecap) removed. Also remove the fuel tank inlet gas cap. Have a large hotel towel handy because it's inevitable that fuel will leak as you remove the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank. - With a 19mm open-end wrench, remove the two 19 mm tubing nuts holding the metal fuel pump outlet and vapor lines to the top of the fuel pump assembly. Be careful not to break the three-line plastic separator (as I did) when bending the rigid metal fuel lines out of the way. - With an 8mm box-wrench or a three-inch stubby #2 phillips screwdriver, remove the six 8mm bolts holding down the fuel tank assembly cover plate to the fuel tank. - Gently pull up on the fuel pump assembly taking care to prevent the six-inch black rubber O-ring from falling into the fuel tank. - From the trunk, twisting gently as needed through the rear sundeck shelf package binnacle opening, remove the fuel pump assembly. - From the rear seat area, look down into the opening left by the removal of the rear sundeck package binnacle and inspect the fuel tank for debris (mine was as clean as a galvanized chambered whistle). ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10. Remove the fuel pump from the fuel pump assembly: OUT OF THE CAR: - Pull out the two one-inch brown plastic alignment clothes-pins in the fuel pump wing bracket. - Remove the two #2 phillips bolts bracing the fuel pump body to the fuel pump assembly. - Remove the one #2 phillips bolt holding the fuel filter sock to the metal fuel assembly (and push out the alignment tab). - Remove the #2 phillips bolt attaching the power wire and the #2 phillips bolt attaching the ground wire to the fuel pump itself. - Gently force the fuel pump motor black rubber wings out of their braces in the fuel pump assembly leaving just the fuel hose attached. - Once the fuel pump wings are outside their slots, use pliars to open the spring hose clamp on the plastic fuel pump outlet nipple. - Remove the (now unattached) fuel pump from the fuel pump assembly. - Compare the old fuel pump (in size & shape) to the new pump (the two fuel pumps should match exactly). - The replacement follows the reverse procedure. Note: I purchased a new fuel pump from a parts store for $312.oo while the Infiniti dealership listed the fuel pump for $320. The Infiniti dealership sold me the six-inch fuel pump O-ring for $13.oo (all numbers include tax). I noticed, afterward, that online, I could get the same pump (including the six-inch O-ring) for $235 plus shipping & tax. Go Internet, if you have the time. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11. Remove the fuel pump control unit for replacement or repair: FROM THE TRUNK: - From the trunk, on your left side with your head facing the driver side rear fender, with your right arm through the opening left by the removal of the rear sundeck package binnacle, place your index finger on the topside location of the bolt head for the two bolts holding the fuel pump control unit bracket to the underside of the rear sundeck. - Have a partner mark the location of the two bolt heads (the actual bolt heads are buried under 1/8th inch thick rubberized soundproofing material) using whiteout or other suitable marking on the black gunky material. FROM THE REAR SEAT AREA: - With a small paring knife, cut out the rubberized gunky black sound- proofing material on top of the two 10mm bolt heads. - Use a 10mm box wrench to remove the two bolts holding the clamp on the underside of the package shelf. Note that the clamp itself forms a U, with one portion of the bracket above and one portion below the metal horizontal sundeck shelf. BACK IN THE TRUNK: - Check that the fuel pump control unit (white, female) harness connector is disconnected from the fuel pump control unit (white, male) connector. - Remove the fuel pump control unit (with the bracket assembly attached) by pulling it toward the rear of the car, and downward. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12. Inspect, repair, or replace the fuel pump control unit: OUT OF THE CAR: - Remove the four #2 phillips head screws holding the top plate (with bracket assembly) of the fuel pump control unit. - Remove the four #2 phillips head screws holding the bottom plate of the fuel pump control unit. - Inspect the wiring everywhere; notice any charred or burned areas (my ground wire on the bottom right (terminal side, tab on top) of the white male fuel pump control unit connector was charred a bit. - Also, there was infinite resistance between that bottom-right male terminal and the corresponding printed circuit board connection (marked #4 on the PCB) on the underside of the printed circuit board. - I used a 25-watt soldering iron & a blue solder sucker to vacuum up the solder around that #4 pin and I re-soldered that ground pin. - I also added a two-inch patch of 16AWG copper wire, soldered to that #4 pin and to all the connections on the printed circuit board I could identify as being that same ground connection. - Test with a ohm meter that the resistance for that one ground lead is near zero; and that accidental shorts to other traces did not occur. - Replace the now-repaired fuel pump control unit in the reverse order of removal. Note: Do not power-up the fuel pump control unit out of the car as the holding bracket supplies the main ground for the fuel pump control unit itself. Note: The #4 terminal is the ONLY terminal on the male white fuel pump control unit connector which is surrounded by EMPTY pins in the white female fuel pump control unit harness connector. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- POST MORTEM: THINGS I LEARNED THE HARD WAY: - Basically, I should've replaced the fuel pump at 100K miles! Apparently they all eventually go bad. I should have also listened for the now tell-tale hum (I never even noticed it before). - Also, once before, about six months ago, my car would not start for about an hour; and then, all of a sudden, started. At the time, I chalked it up to cylinder wash (loss of compression due to gasoline washing the oil off the piston walls causing rings to temporarily not seal); but now I realize it was probably the fuel pump control unit #4 pin solder heated up and, when it cooled, it re-connected itself. - It was recommended we should fill up when just about on one quarter of a tank (or so). The (unsubstantiated) argument states that the fuel pump heats up, causing more current draw (how?) which causes the solder connection on the fuel pump control module ground circuit to heat up which, if it melts, can cause the open circuit that I found in mine. - The new six-inch fuel pump O-ring looked EXACTLY the same as the old one (condition was imperceptably different). So much, I ended up mixing the two accidentally, and I couldn't tell them apart. Be advised. - The new pump made almost NO SOUND. I didn't even realize that until I had replaced it. Even with the full-power jumper bypassing the fuel pump control, the new fuel pump hummed vastly less than the old fuel pump hummed. - The current draw and resistance measurements of the old fuel pump and the new fuel pump were almost the same; so do not rely on these figures as a diagnosis test (listen for hum or check your odometer): OLD FUEL PUMP: NEW FUEL PUMP: 0.9 to 1.1 ohms 0.6 to 0.8 ohms (from the blue male FP connector) 5.6 to 5.8 amps 5.8 to 6.7 amps (with the FPCU bypass to ground) - The factory shop manual makes NO MENTION of the quick and easy test jumpering the fuel pump control unit harness connector to ground. Instead, the factory shop manual walks you through an apparently unnecessary lengthy step-by-step debugging process requiring the use of a three, four, and then a five wire jig to debug the fuel pump control unit. Don't overdiagnose. Just use the jumper and if the fuel pump operates, then replace BOTH the fuel pump and the fuel pump control unit (or repair the fuel pump control unit). - For the longest time I was confused about the various debugging procedures in the factory shop manual. What cleared it up was the realization of all the proper connector names! I've made a sincere attemp in this note to use the proper names at all times. - Many folks say you can test the deliver of fuel past the fuel filter (in the engine compartment) by squeezing the hole while the engine is cranking to feel for fuel pressure. I can't tell. I recommend removal of the fuel filter. It provides proof positive. - The factory shop manual goes into the engine control unit debugging. It was not needed in my case so I'm glad I skipped that part. - The hardest thing in the world was to find the locations of the various units; and to find out how to remove some of them. In this note, I take special care to describe both the name of the unit and the precise location, for others to benefit. - Most folks recommend disconnecting the battery & removing it from the car when working on the fuel tank. I didn't do this, but you should. [post_title] => Infiniti Q45 Fuel Pump Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-fuel-pump-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:39:59 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:39:59 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [70] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1328 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By Wes Stinson, Infiniti Moderator Tools used: 12 and 14mm socket, hammer (always on-call ), Diagram of the belts and tensioners Here's the correct procedure 1. Loosen alternator tensioner 2. Remove alternator tensioner 3. remove alternator belt 4. loosen waterpump/PS tensioner 5. Remove waterpump/PS tensioner 6. Loosen AC tensioner 7. Remove AC tensioner 8. Remove AC belt -assemble in reverse order... and replace loosen with tighten Helpful tips (PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU START) 1. Note how tight the belts currently are. When you reinstall them try and make them just slightly tighter. That's the best way I can describe how tight to make them, besides actually measuring the deflection. 2. Note the position of the tensioners. I put the alternator one on backwards the first time and that made an awful screeching noise - not good! Also, the tensioners are different, so be sure to keep them separate. 3. All of the tensioner adjustments can be reached from below. I tried from the top and you just can't do the water pump adjustment from the top. They're both easy to work with on the bottom, even easier with the nose of the car on jackstands. [post_title] => Changing the Belts on an Infiniti Q45 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => changing-belts-infiniti-q45 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:37:19 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:37:19 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [71] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1329 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: Tangalora ----------------------------------------------------------------------- SUMMARY: 90-93 Q45 chain guide repair (hints, suggestions, procedures): ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Formulate a basic overview understanding of the situation at hand: The whole chain is under tension; but we use tension & slack terminology. The crankshaft pulls on the straight leg of the chain (the tension side). Then (terminologically) the curved leg is "pushed" (i.e., the slack side). The guides that were redesigned are the tension-side (straight) guides. A new plastic tension guide sits on top of a new metal tension guide. These two guides replace one guide (using longer bolts than original). Light blue-gray RTV around the timing cover & oil pan is likely factory. Red RTV would most likely indicate the cover was removed at one point. The passenger side slack guide can be viewed by removing an engine porthole. The slack-side (curved) guides don't generally fail & were not redesigned. The guides on the driver's side are those that most often fail. So, that would make the driver side tension guide the main failure item. The original design used 2 guides per chain (slack-side & tension-side). The new design uses three guides per chain (2 for 1 on the tension guide). The slack-side guides were metal originally so new is almost identical. The straight leg has enough tension it almost doesn't need a guide. Even if the tension guide fails, the engine may run fine for a long while. The plastic pieces may wedge between chain and sprocket. The timing cover may crack (leaking oil profusely). The chain can break. The chain can skip a tooth (or two or three). The main danger is a chain jumping a tooth causing valve timing changes. Each cam gear tooth is 10 degrees (each crank gear tooth is 20 degrees). One crank tooth or 2 cam teeth is the ragged edge of exhaust valve contact. The second danger is pieces lodging under the chain (perhaps breaking it). Chain guide slop may also cause engine-cover oil-chain "ears" to break off. That loose "ear" lodges in the oil pump sprocket & cracks the timing cover. Broken pieces that fall into the oil pan are also a potential problem. Large pieces (which grind ever smaller) may clog (starve) the oil pickup. Smaller pieces (grinding ever smaller) may score the oil pump vanes. There are 2 oil chain guides, but 1 wears faster than the other. The slack-side oil pump guide doesn't have a tensioner. It's just set in place and has to be manually adjusted (i.e., replaced). Generally you do not have to replace the timing chains. If you replace timing chains, it will take twice as long to do the job. If you replace timing chains, the valve covers will have to come off. The toughest chainguide step is R&R of the 270 ftlb crankshaft-pulley bolt. Do NOT put a chain wrench on the pulley & then tap the starter switch. You may put a wrench on the bolt resting on something solid & tap the starter. Byron at T3 apparently also takes the pulley off the power steering pump. Most replace the oil pump but there isn't much evidence to show it's needed. It would be interesting to test oil pressure before & after oilpan cleanup. ----------------------------------------------------------- Read how to perform the job based on others' experience: ----------------------------------------------------------- Factory Shop Manual, Engine Mechanical section: Note: I could barely understand the FSM so correct as needed. ----------------------------------------------------------- Photographic summary of a chain guide & oil pan replacement: http://www.q45.org/guidereplacement.html (www.q45.org/guidereplacement.html) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=77266 ----------------------------------------------------------- Photo of tension side guides and slack side guides: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660) ----------------------------------------------------------- Timing chain parts list: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15226 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15226) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=13851 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=13851) ----------------------------------------------------------- Checking chain guides: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=7058 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=7058) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12551 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12551) ----------------------------------------------------------- Replacing chain guides: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15861 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15861) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=48852 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=48852) ----------------------------------------------------------- Supporting the engine & tension-side chain guide information: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=27044 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=27044) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=92067 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=92067) ----------------------------------------------------------- Aligning marks for timing chain guide replacement: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=71463 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=71463) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=710 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=710) ----------------------------------------------------------- Checking for new chain guides: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15648 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15648) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12941 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12941) ----------------------------------------------------------- Chain guide replacement hints: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=26454 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=26454) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=28462 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=28462) ----------------------------------------------------------- Chain guide noise & broken timing chain cover debug steps: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=16281 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=16281) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=46708 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=46708) ----------------------------------------------------------- Obtain requisite parts from Joe of Scottsdale Infiniti or elsewhere: http://www.EverythingNissan.com 888-216-5328 - 1x 13510-60U00 - front cover seal - 2x 13270-60U00 - valve cover gaskets (if valve cover is removed) - 4x 11051-60U04 - cam end seals (if the valve cover is removed) - 1x 13091-60U01 - guide (tension RH) - 1x 13091-60U11 - guide (tension LH) - 1x 13070-60U03 - chain tensioner (RH) - 1x 13070-60U12 - chain tensioner (LH) - 2x 13085-60U01 - chain guide (tensioner guide?) - 2x 13085-60U11 - chain guide - 2x 13094-60U00 - guide bolts - 2x 01121-04711 - guide bolts - 4x 13075-60U02 - tensioner bolts - 1x 13079-60U01 - tensioner gasket (LH) - 1x 15041-60U00 - oil pump chain (highly recommended) - 1x 15073-60U00 - oil pump chain guide - 1x 15073-60U10 - oil pump chain guide - 1x 15072-60U00 - bracket oil pump - 1x 15044-60U00 - crank/oil sprocket - 1x 15043-60U00 - crank/timing sprocket - 2x 13021-60U00 - crank/cam sprockets (if warranted) - 2x 13028-60U00 - timing chains (if warranted) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Line up the necessary shop tools: - Garage tools (jack/stands or ramps, creeper, etc) - Common metric sockets (8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19mm) - You will use the 10mm the most by far so have a few types on hand. - Large crank bolt socket (30 or 31mm) - Ratchets and 10 mm wrenches. - 18" breaker bar and an extension pipe. - A 300 ft-lb torque wrench (maybe). - A large puller (Sears has them for about $30) - A 5mm allen socket (do not use an allen wrench); this is CRITICAL. - A chain wrench long enough to wrap around the main pulley. - That chain wrench must have a 3-foot handle (or a 3-foot pipe) - An old ribbed belt sufficient to wrap around the crank pulley (to act as a buffer between the crank pulley and the chain wrench, very optional). - Other common shop tools--pliers, vise grips, magnetic tool pickups, etc. - RTV (1 tube of Permatex Blue will be plenty, however Nissan Genuine RTV is included in the kit from Joe). - Feeler gauges (1mm, 0.04 inches) for chain-to-guide distance. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Overview of chain guide replacement steps (no chains = 10 hours): - Inspect lower valve cover abutment with engine for RTV color - Or pull the front-most oil pan bolt to check the RTV in the bolt hole. - If it's light gray/blue, then it's most likely still factory sealed. - Red RTV (most common) is not factory (according to most accounts). - This isn't definitive; but it's a circumstantial hint nonetheless. - Remove all plastic trim pieces to expose radiator and cover. - Drain coolant and remove radiator. - Remove all belts. - Remove all belt tensioners. - Remove metal bracket on PS fluid pump covering front cover. - Remove coolant hose running across front cover. - Align the pulley to TDC (this is the last timing mark on the crank pulley, however the crank pulley is notched with a key so this is not 100% critical). - Remove crank pulley main bolt with a wrench on the nut. Remove crankshaft bolt: - Tools = 30mm socket, 22" chain/strap wrench, 18" breaker & 30" cheater bar - Wrap a 20 inch protective strip of tire inner tube (or old ribbed belt) around the pulley - Cinch the chain or strap wrench around the pulley (any location is OK) - Turn the bolt counter-clockwise until the chain wrench wedges somewhere - Check that the chain wrench wedged somewhere safe & solid - Easily twist the bolt off using leverage (it will not take much effort) - Actual time should be less than 15 minutes from start to finish Remove crankshaft pulley: - One assumption is the radiator has already been removed - Tools = 30 mm socket, 24" ratchet, 30" cheater pipe - Replace crankshaft bolt and place the 30mm socket on the bolt - Twist the engine CLOCKWISE (to set #1 piston at compression TDC) - Line up the CAS pointer to 270 degrees (facing engine) to set #1 compression - Line up the left-most pulley notch with the timing-cover dowel to set #1 TDC - Remove the crankshaft bolt without disturbing from #1 compression TDC - With hands, manually tweak back to #1 compression TDC (if necessary) - REMOVE the fat washer & replace the bolt loosly on the crankshaft - Make sure only a few threads are engaged & that the washer is off! - Tools = Sears 2-jaw puller #46903) or equivalent, 3/4 inch box wrench - With a helper, position two puller jaws on the third lip of the pulley - Place a 3/4" box wrench on the puller shaft & twist clockwise - Easily twist the pulley off using leverage (it will not take much effort) - Actual time should be less than 15 minutes from start to finish - Remove the front lower timing chain cover screws. - Note there four oil pan bolts holding the lower timing chain cover. - Note the upper timing chain covers may remain on the engine. - Remove the lower front cover. - Note the 6 different lengths and 32 bolt holes (keep track). - Pry at the bottom corner of the cover, near the alternator - Also pry just below the water pump. - May need to remove the pump (5 bolts and RTV) to get to pry point. - Try to pry/pull as evenly as possible. - Don't damage the solid gasket between lower & upper timing covers. - Immediately after removing the cover, block the oil pan with towels. - Inspect all timing chains for cracks or excessive wear indications. - Locate the TDC dimple below a tooth in the crank sprocket. - Just above that dimpled tooth should be a timing chain GOLD LINK. - Remove the oil pump chain, guide and sprocket (which is not keyed). - Note the oil pump crankshaft sproket has a key cut. - This oil pump crank sprocket keyway isn't used to hold it in place. - Compression/friction of the 270 foot pound crankshaft bolt holds it. - This oil pump sprocket keyway is there only to put it on the crankshaft. - Cinch timing chains tightly to prevent jumping a sprocket tooth. - This is the most critical step (most folks use tie wraps) - Remove the old chain guides (don't let the chains loosen). - Re-cinch chains, if needed, to be safe (do we use a 1mm feeler gauge?). - Use a 5mm allen socket to remove the old tensioners (very tight) - Install new tensioners and guides (don't use a 5mm allen wrench) - Measure with a feeler gauge 1mm distance between upper guides & chain. - Make sure there is no gunk clogging the tensioner oil ports. - Use "BG Quick Clean for Engines" (if necessary) to unclog HLA passages. - Try to fish out any pieces left in the oil pan (or vacuum them out). - Install new oil pump chain, guide and sprocket. - Turn the crankshaft slowly by hand before putting covers on. - If anything binds, now is the time to find out. - Clean the mating surfaces of the cover and degrease - Don't bend the solid gasket above the cover as you install the cover. - Note there is no RTV between the timing cover and its solid gasket. - Apply fresh RTV and install cover with all bolts. - Torque all cover bolt to spec where possible (see FSM). - Torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 270 foot pounds. - 90 lbs of force on a 3-ft bar will do if you don't have a torque wrench. - Install everything in the reverse order of removal - Fill up coolant - Fill up the oil - Turn main pully two full turns to spread oil around the engine. - You'll feel & hear the compresson cycles; hopefully nothing else. - Torque up the main bolt to 270 ft-lbs before replacing the belts. - Two strong guys are probably best for this step. - Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to spread some more oil. - Replace the fuel pump fuse. - Crank engine & turn off imediately 5 or 10 [sometimes 20] times. - It may sound like the engine is going to explode for a minute. - HLA & tensioners need to bleed air admitted when you changed them. - The noise should suddenly go away after a few minutes running. - Run [multiple] warm/hot power balances - Make sure every cylinder drop is no more than 25 rpm variance. - If you have not dropped the oil pan, run an oil pressure check. - This might tell you if the oil pickup is clogged with guide debris. [post_title] => Q45 Chain Guides Removal / Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-chain-guides-removal-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:37:49 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:37:49 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [72] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1330 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: Tangalora Prepare your work environment: - Wear full coveralls & safety glasses (to keep grease out if nothing else); - Shove a shop rag in your back pocket & a digital camera in your front pocket; - Sweep the floor of your work area clean (you *will* repeatedly drop stuff); - Place the Q45 transmission in PARK & chock the rear wheels; - Lift the Q45 at the front engine crossmember with a floor jack; - Place stands under the frame where the frame is double thickness - Remove the floor jack & bounce-test the setup (better to fall now than later). Empty the radiator of coolant: - Loosen the radiator & coolant overflow covers to allow air in the system; - Place a suitable container below the radiator passenger side corner; - Loosen plastic drain c0ck at the bottom passenger side of the radiator; - Drain radiator fluid into the container (an oil-change pan works well). ... Note: I removed the petcock completely to enable fluid to flow freely ... Remove the black plastic ornamental cover directly above the radiator: (Note: Some people find its easiest to remove the lower radiator hose.This makes a mess but is DEFINITELY the fastest way). - Remove the steel quarter-inch screw just in front of the MAF (#2 phillips); - Note the steel washer and rubber O ring below that short steel screw; - Remove 7 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars); - Note the female portion of the anchor bolt often comes out with the male; - Loosly insert all 9 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping. ... Note: Someone had previously broken many fasteners ... Remove the ornamental cover directly over the hood hinge (fore of the radiator): - Remove 8 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars); - Loosely insert all 8 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping. ... Note: Someone had previously broken many fasteners. Remove the ornamental cover directly behind the driver-side headlamp: - Remove 4 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars); - Loosly insert all 4 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping. ... Note: Someone had previously broken some of the ornamental cover holes ... Remove the ornamental cover directly behind the passenger-side headlamp: - Remove 4 two-piece nylon anchor fasteners (#2 phillips + needlenose pliars); - Loosely insert all 4 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping. Remove the two-piece fan shroud surrounding the engine fan: - Remove 2 steel screws on the top of the radiator shroud (#2 phillips); - Remove 2 steel screws on the bottom of the radiator shroud (#2 phillips); - Unclip the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from 2 top driver-side clips; - Unclip the electrical wires from shroud by pulling 2 posts out (needlenose); - Note the fan shroud has a two-inch-wide removable collar around the fan; - Remove the bottom fan-shroud-collar clip (#2 flat screwdriver or pliars); - Remove the passenger-side fan-shroud-collar clip (sometimes difficult); - You may leave the driver-side fan-shroud-collar clip (if you can't get to it); - Pull the radiator shroud with attached collar upward out of the engine bay. - Loosely insert all 4 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping. ... Note: I was able to leave the fan-shroud-collar hanging by one clip ... Disconnect the upper two-inch rubber radiator hose assembly: - Loosen the hose clamp at the water pump outlet on the engine (#2 flat); - Manually pull the two-inch hose off the water pump outlet; - Hand tighten the hose clamp onto a section of the hose for safe keeping; Disconnect the radiator overflow hose under the radiator pressure cap; - Loosen the radiator-overflow-hose clamp at the top of the radiator (pliers); - Detach the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from the top of the radiator; - Move the hose clamp onto a section of the overflow hose for safe keeping; Remove the engine ornamental cover (between the water pump outlet & the plenum): - Remove two 10 mm bolts on the top of the ornamental cover (1/4" socket set); - Remove the one 10 mm nut on the side section of the ornamental cover (socket); - Remove the engine ornamental cover from between the water pump & plenum; - Loosely insert all 3 fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping. Disconnect the lower two-inch rubber radiator hose assembly: - Find two CAS wire-holder fasteners on the lower-hose metal section bracket; - Detach those two CAS wire-holder fasteners (bent needlenose pliers); - Find the one 10 mm bolt holding the lower-hose steel section & bracket; - Remove that 10 mm bolt from the engine (socket + 6 inch extension); - Remove the three 12 mm thermostat cover bolts (socket + 6 inch extension); - The lower two-inch radiator hose is now free from the engine; - Loosely insert the one bolt by hand in its original position for safekeeping. Disconnect the two wires attached to the radiator before removal: - Remove the 22 mm thermoswitch on the radiator driver side (open-end wrench); - Make sure you save the rubber 0-ring underneath this brass thermoswitch; - Disconnect a wiring connector on the driver side near the radiator; ... Note: Could I instead disconnect the thermoswitch from the harness? ... Disconnect the OEM ATF transmission oil cooler inside the radiator: - On the driver side of the radiator, on the side facing the engine; - Locate where the rubber transmission tubing meets metal tubes; - This will be underneath the engine, close to the power steering pump; - This location makes dis-assembly easy as you can get a good grip here; - Label each hose & metal line pair so as not to confuse them upon reassembly; - Specifically, the lower rubber hose goes to the distal horizontal metal tube; - Correspondingly, the upper rubber hose goes to the medial metal tube; - Place a thick shop towel nearby as the transmission cooler will leak oil; - Remove the 10 mm bolt on each of these two hose clamps (box wrench); - Temporarily plug each transmission cooler rubber line with a pencil; - Otherwise you'll leak ATF oil all over the floor of your workspace; - Hand tighten the two hose clamps onto their respective hoses for safekeeping; ... Note: I couldn't remove the two 19 mm ATF brass fittings or their hoses! .. Remove the two bolts attaching the radiator to the Q45 frame: - Make a note of the difference between the two brackets on the radiator top; - Remove the two 10 mm bolts at the top of the radiator (box wrench); - Lift up the two (different size) radiator brackets under those two bolts; - Loosely insert both fasteners by hand in original positions for safekeeping. Remove radiator: - Pull the radiator up out the top of the engine bay & inspect for damage. Reinstall in reverse order. We recommend refilling with distilled water (70%), antifreeze (30%), and 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter. SUMMARY: #1 Empty the radiator of coolant by opening the passenger-side drain cock; #2 Detach the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from the top of the radiator; #3 Pull out two wire fasteners from the drivers-side of the fan shroud (pliars); #4 Unclip thermoswitch electrical wires (the thermoswitch may remain in place); #5 Detach two CAS-wire-holder fasteners (using bent needlenose pliars); #6 Remove one 10 mm bolt holding 2-inch pipe to engine (socket, 6 in extension); #7 Remove the lower two-inch radiator hose from the thermostat housing; #8 Disconnect the upper two-inch rubber radiator from the water pump outlet; #9 Disconnect the upper transmission heat exchanger inlet quarter-inch hose; #10 Disconnect the lower transmission heat exchanger outlet quarter-inch hose; #11 Remove the three 2-inch-wide lower shroud-collar clips (needle-nose pliars); #12 Remove the two 10 mm bolts at the top of the radiator (box wrench). [post_title] => Q45 Radiator Removal / Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-radiator-removal-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:38:12 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:38:12 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [73] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1331 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: Wes Stinson Diagnosis of bad motor mounts: - Set the parking brake - Put the car in drive - Place foot on brake as firmly as possible - Floor the gas pedal, release quickly - Have a helper (standing to the side) approximate the distance the engine moved - Anything over 1 inch and the motor mounts are past due. Another way is to jack the engine up (by putting a wide piece of wood to protect the oil pan) and if you see separation in the motor mounts (as you jack the motor up and thus they expand), they are definitely bad. 5 hour job. SAFETY FIRST!! I had the car on jack stands, with a set of stands as backup. Use a floor jack and stand to support the engine. Removed tension rod, sway bar links, motor mounts and traverse links from the crossmember. (Did not loosen the steering rack.) Lowered the crossmember (about 6-8 inches), enough to get to the mounts. Removed the brackets (4 bolts) for each mount (did not even attempt to remove the single nut from the top of the mounts). The only bolt that was difficult was the top rear bolt on the drivers side due to the heat shield partially covering the bolt. I bent the shield a bit to allow better access, put on a short socket and wedged an extension into the socket and tapped the extension into the socket with a small hammer (bending the shield to accommodate the extension). Assemble in reverse order. [post_title] => Replacing Motor Mounts on an Infiniti Q45 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => replacing-motor-mounts-infiniti-q45 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:38:46 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:38:46 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [74] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1334 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Installing Z32 brakes onto your Q45 By: Wes Stinson Here's my parts list. 4 Brembo blanks (brand new) Z32 30mm calipers OEM pads 1 big and 1 small bottle of Valvoline synpower brake fluid Caliper grease Braided SS Z32 240 conversion lines OR You can use the factory lines*(SEE NOTE AT END) Speed bleeders Started with the rear, and everything went smoothly... The hard line fittings are on tight so use an impact wrench if you have it... The rear conversion lines are the same as the Q45 lines except with a shorter banjo bolt... They use a banjo fitting but the seat of the bolt has the inverted flare... An important step here is the bolts are just ever so slightly too long and mine leaked. That said, if you use 3 copper washers (one on the bolt head side, and 2 on the caliper side) the bolt won't bottom out and leak. Remember to orient so that the bleeder is on the TOP... There's no difference left to right except where the bleeder is.!!! That being said, there's really nothing special about the rear brakes, everything went right on. Be sure to use plenty of grease. Grease everything, wherever the pad contacts something. Now on to the fronts. This is where a little bit of skill is required. Some people suggested removing that heat shield, but i didn't see an easy way to do that. I decided to just cut mine. You'll see where it sort of curves around and there's a little tab. I just cut that so it was flat and it worked perfect, with plenty of clearance on both sides. Put a jack under each control arm to simulate the suspension being laden to help align the fitting. Overall, this was definitely a good mod to do if you have 17 in wheels or more (for clearance). I did the math, and doing this upgrade will cost about as much (slightly less) as rehabbing your Q45 brakes, and after that, will be substantially cheaper as the brembo blanks are about 1/2 price of what OEM rotors are. With the double thickness in the rear and 2mm extra in the front that has to make things last longer. These are the brakes that should have been on the car, and had it not been for wheel clearance issues, I think Nissan would have used these to begin with! **NOTE: If you want to use the factory lines, simply remove the bolt from the banjo fitting and cut it down a few threads..In retrospect, I probably would have gone this route rather than the SS lines, due to fitment issues...** [post_title] => Z32 Brake Upgrade Installation on a Q45 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => z32-brake-upgrade-installation-on-a-q45 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:39:09 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:39:09 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [75] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1336 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: szhosian The posts in this thread are the basic technical specifications and other information of the various M models. Remember to click the pictures to see larger images, etc. The information presented was collected and gathered from public web sites, as well as various Nissan and Infiniti User's Guides, Owner's Manuals and Service Manuals (which are copyrighted by their respective owners.) ___________________________________________________________________ 2003/2004 M45 Capacities: Engine Specs: Wheels and Dimensions: OEM Tires 1. Bridgestone Turanza ER33. 235/45-18 94W. Grand Touring Summer. 2. Michelin Pilot HX MXM4. 235/45-18 94V. Grand Touring All Season. ___________________________________________________________________ 2006 M35/M45 Capacities: Engine Specs: Wheels and Dimensions: OEM Tires 1. Goodyear Eagle RS-A. 245/45-18 96V. High Performance All-Season. 2. Bridgestone Potenza RE050A. 245/40-19 94W. Max Performance Summer. ___________________________________________________________________ If anyone would like to add to this information, please send me e-mail. Thanks! [post_title] => M35 / M45 Specifications [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => m35-m45-specifications [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-12 21:40:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-13 04:40:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [76] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1337 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: driverdriver This post is divided into six sections: Post Content: (1.0) J30 General Information (2.0) J30 & Media (3.0) J30 Modifications & Maintenance (4.0) Is this normal? (5.0) What should I look for in a used J30? (6.0) J30 Wisdom (from owners who’ve learned the hard way) (1.0) J30 General Information (1.1) When did J30 production start and where was it built Full production started on April 7, 1993. It was built in Tochigi Japan. (1.2) What is the last year the J30 was sold in North America? 1997. Production ended on June 18, 1997 (1.3) Who designed the J30? Chief designer Doug Wilson with guidance form Jerry Hirshberg Nissan NDI chief. Doug Wilson also designed the original Pathfinder, Pulsar NX. 90's to current generation Altima and 2000 Maxima. There is a book available called "The Creative Priority"by Jerry Hirshberg that contains some early sketches of the J30. The car was designed entirely at Nissan LaJolla California design studio. (1.4) Where was the J30's place in Infiniti's product hierarchy? Just below the flagship Q45 and above the G20 and later I30. (1.5) What vehicles where the J30's main competitor when launched? Original Lexus GS, Acura Vigor, Jaguar XJ, BMW 5 series, Saab 9000. (1.6) Does the J30 share the engine with the 300ZX? Yes and few other bits. (1.7) What is the J30 known as in Japan? Nissan Leopard J Ferie. (1.8) What are the differences between the North American J30 and the Japanese Leopard J Ferie? The Japanese version had an optional V8. The Japanese version had a front-end spoiler. The instrument gauge cluster on the US version is of a different design because speed is measured in miles and temperature in Fahrenheit scale. The Canadian version of the J has got the original JDM instrument cluster. (1.9) Was the J30/Leopard J Ferie sold in western Europe? No, in the UK it would have gone head-to-head with Jaguar XJ. Nissan product strategists did their research and found out that Jaguar buyers tend to be loyalists that are very difficult to convert. It would be hard to have them switch to a Nissan product which doesn't have the same brand cachet or heritage. (1.10) What is HICAS? Basically a rear wheel steering system which turns the back wheels in an opposite direction to the front wheels at high speeds. It makes the car handle like its on "rails". It eliminates body roll and gives better high speed handling. It allows you to scare the pants off Bimmer, Audi and Benz drivers. Only available in 1993 and 1994 J30 "t" (touring) models. (1.11) What does the "t" in J30 stand for. The "t" stands for touring. The Difference between a regular J30 and a J30t is that the "t" model came with HICAS (only available on 1993 and 1994 models), a rear spoiler, heated seats standard (US models only-heated seats where standard across the line in Canada) and a stiffer suspension. (1.12) What is a "gold package" J30? It's a J30. mostly "t" models sold in 1993 and 1994 which came with gold plated grille, door handles,badging, special floor mats, and special gold plated BBS rims that where administered through the dealer. Very few where sold. In Canada the "t' models came only in two exterior colours. Either a pearl metallic black or green pearl metallic. Both came with only a black interior colour configuration. (1.13) Where there any J30 models or toys produced? Aoshima produced a model kit in the 90’s of a J30. They will appear from time to time on Ebay, more frequently on Yahoo Japanese auctions. If you have live in a city with a large Asian population and a large Asian shopping area, it is possible to find the kit at an Asian hobby store. There are a few custom diecast shops in the US who will produce a custom J30 for you just like yoursin 1/24 scale but its exepensive. (2.0) J30 & Media (2.1) Who's the guy with long white hair in all those J30 TV commercials? Acclaimed English actor Jonathan Pryce (2.2) Has the J30 won any awards or accolades? It has won two accolades in the mid 90's, one for JD Powers highest initial quality in a luxury vehicle(1995) and another one for long term dependability based in the JD Power VDS survey. The Automobile Journalists Association of Canada(AJAC) voted the J30 best new luxury car in 1993. In 1996 IntelliChoice announces that J30 and I30 win “Lowest Maintenance Costs in Class.” Forbes Magazine 04/21/2001-Listed the 1993-1997 J30 as one of the best vehicle to come out of Japan in an article entitled "Greatest Japanese Cars of All Time" (2.3) Did any of the major auto magazines test the J30? Here's magazine and issues information on tests: Autoweek-October 28, 1991: J30 preview. Autoweek-January 2, 1992: J30 preview Autoweek-December 21, 1992: J30 preview and test drive. Car and Driver-February 1992: '93 J30 only test drive and impressions. Car and Driver-May 1992- '93 J30t only test drive and impressions . MotorTrend-February 1992: '93 J30 only test drive and impressions. MotorTrend-February 1993:'94 J30t only test drive and impressions. Road and Track-May 1992-'93 J30t only test drive and impressions. Road and Track-October 1993. Model overview and preview. Road and Track-October 1994. Model overview. Wards Auto World-February 1992: Overview and test drive. (2.4) Has the J30 appeared in movies? These are the ones I'm aware of: Heat (1995) Al Pacino and Robert De Niro. O (2001) Mekhi Phifer, Julia Stiles, Josh Hartnett. (3.0) J30 Modifications (3.1) Where can I get a JDM spoiler, JDM grille or JDM badging for the J30? Try Yahoo Japanese auctions. The spoliers are very pricey even used never mind factoring shipping and custom charges. (3.2) What performance mods are available for the J30? Not much. The car came modded from the factory. Jim Wolf Technology does make a pop charger which will give you a bit more horses. Level Ten can rebuild your transmission with quicker ratios and a 5th gear to give you better performance but it will cost you(at least they use to rebuild them). Stillen produces an ECU for the J30. (3.3) Do those performance chips I see advertised on Ebay work? No. They are basically resistors found at any Radio Shack for $2. Its possible to get a gain, but it'll be at the expense of mileage and the on board pollution equipment. They are also known to damage both engine and powertrain components with long term use. (3.4) Where can I get genuine Infiniti floor mats for my J30? From time to time they will appear on Ebay. (3.5) Can I install HID or Xenon looking bulbs for my headlight. Yes as long as the wattage is equivalent to OEM and these lights are legal in your province/state. Anythingbulb that has a different wattage will screw up the headlight wiring and the headlight module. Sylvania makes Silverstars and Cool Blues that fit the J. I believe PIAA also makes one that gives an HID look. (3.6) What type of gas should I put in the J30? Octane 91 as it is recommended in the manual, no ifs and buts. The engine design is of a high compression nature with unique pistol fuel injectors. Yes the car does have a knock sensor to compensate for lower quality octane if encountered from time to time, However the engine has been designed only for higher octane gasoline. Using anything below octane 91 can damage the engine and fuel management system. (3.7) What type of oil should I use in my J30? Oil is a matter of personal taste on whether you like to use conventional or synthetic. I've only used synthetic in mine. Use the proper oil weight and change intervals dictated by the owners manual for your region. with a quality oil filter that isn't Fram. (3.8) What type of transmission fluid should I use? Again its a matter of personal taste. Some on this forum useSynthetic ATF while others use conventional ATF with more frequent changes. Don't switch to synthetic if your transmission is slipping or if your having other transmission related problems. It will only hasten its departure. (3.9) Should I get a transmission cooler? If you live someplace where it's hot/warm year around (i.e. southern US States). I would advise it. The cars weight and the ambient heat tend to shorten the life of the transmission. (3.10) How do I lower my J30? You need to have custom shocks made to do this. There is nothing available aftermarket for this application. (4.0) Is this normal? (4.1) A lot of white smoke comes out of the tail pipe? Is there something wrong? As long as the smoke isn't tinged blue or smells like coolant its normal. Most of that white smoke is water vapor. The colder it gets the more it produces. (4.2) My car roars to life like a 50's Buick the first time I start it in the morning, is this normal? Yes as long as the rev settle down as the engine warms up. (4.3) My transmission shifts abruptly or feels like its slipping while driving between first and second gear and then eventually settles down? This is a common for most J's. For the transmission to shift smoothly the car needs be properly warmed up at first start. The transmission works effectively when its at proper operating temp. (5.0) What should I look for in a used J30? (5.1) What should I look for in a used J30? -A complete service history is very important. Well maintained examples should be relatively trouble free. -Ensure that the timing belt has been done and transmission fluid has been changed at proper intervals. -Ensure that the sunroof works (expensive and time consuming fix). -Bose (Clarion) head units are a common issue on the J. Ensure yours works properly. -Ensure your headlights work, improper voltage bulbs cause the relay to go. -The most common rust areas on the J30 are the weld at the bottom of the front door and the weld at the bottom of the rear doors. (6.0) J30 Wisdom (from owners who’ve learned the hard way) Here’s some advice: -Use only OEM Nissan alternators in the J. Aftermarket alternators cause many problems as many long time owners will attest. -Use only OEM Nissan spark plugs aftermarket plugs have caused many problems as many long time owners will attest. -When using aftermarket or speciality headlight bulbs make sure, they are of the same wattage otherwise you’ll destroy your headlight relay. -Nissan OEM brake rotors provide the best braking power for the J30. They also last the longest compared to aftermarket rotors. -There are no aftermarket shocks or struts available for the J30 unless you go custom(which usually means more $$$). Your best bet is Nissan OEM. PM me if I missed anything or if you want something added to this sticky. Thanks to Public Relations at Infiniti Canada for helping me with some of the content. [post_title] => Infiniti J30 Specifications and Technical FAQ [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => j30-specifications-faq [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 12:23:20 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 19:23:20 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [77] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1339 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By rydwhite 2003/2004 G35 Sedan Engine: 3.5 liter V6 (VQ 35) Drive Type: Rear-wheel drive/Optional All-wheel drive (G35X) Horsepower: 260 @ 6,000 RPM Torque: 260 lb-ft @4,800 RPM Suspension: Front: Independent, forged-aluminum multi-link with coil springs over ripple-control shock absorbers, stabilizer bar. Rear: Independent, forged-aluminum multi-link with coil springs, outboard ripple-control shock absorbers, stabilizer bar. Valvetrain : DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder with microfinished camshafts and Continuously Variable Valve Timing Control System (CVTCS) for intake valves. Intake system: High-flow induction system Compression ratio: 10.3:1 Brake Rotors: 11.7” x 0.9” front rotors/11.5” x 0.6” rear rotors ABS Type: Computer-controlled 4-channel, 4-sensor with Electronic Brake force Distribution Assist Turning Diameter: 36 feet Wheels: Base, Leather Model: 6-spoke 7” x 17” aluminum-alloy Leather, 6mt Model: 5-spoke 7” x 17” aluminum-alloy Tires: Base, Leather Model: 215/55R17 V-rated all-season performance Leather, 6mt: 215/55R17 w-rated performance Wheelbase: 112.2 Overall Length: 186.5 Overall Width: 69 Overall Height: 57.7 Track (front/rear): 59.1/59.3 Coefficient of drag: 0.27 Cd/0.26 Cd with Aero Head Room (front/rear): 40.1/37.9 Leg Room (front/rear): 43.6/33.6 Shoulder Room (front/rear): 56.4/55.5 Hip Room (front/rear): 52.2/54.1 Interior Volume: 98 cubic feet without sunroof/95.5 cubic feet with sunroof: Cargo Volume: 14.8 cubic feet (11.8 when equipped with full-size spare) Curb Weight: Base Model: 3,336 lbs Leather Model: 3,369 lbs Leather 6mt: 3,398 lbs AWD Leather: 3,677 lbs Fuel Capacity: 20 gallons 2003 EPA Fuel Economy Estimates (City/Highway): Auto 18/26 6mt 20/27 AWD 17/24 All info taken from Infiniti. [post_title] => Infiniti G35: Technical Data / Specifications / Capacities [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-g35-technical-data-specifications-capacities [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 13:12:28 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 20:12:28 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [78] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1340 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Infiniti Q45 Rear Sway Bar Installation and Upgrade Steps Typically, your rear sway bar bushings will be hard and worn and deformed from years of use, so while you're installing your new 20mm Active rear sway bar, I recommend new polyurethane bushings. Old and new side by side. Notice how much longer the OEM link bolts are. I used the OEM bolts and changed everything else. Note bushing size difference as well as seat washers. I also put the box in the shot for anyone who wants to try this. Just go to Napa and ask for the number on the box. Close up of the box for all you Stevie Wonders and Ray Charles out there… Pay close attention to this one. Getting the bar into place took like two minutes. I fed the bar into position BEHIND the diff, then slid it forwards to it's proper position up near the drive shaft flange. There was no need to mess with the exhaust and even though I took off the driver's side rear tire, I probably could have left it on where this was concerned. Here's how you start the bar off... Now I have moved it forward to it's mounting location. Quite simple… Driver's side main support bushing… Connected ALL nuts and bolts loosely before tightening anything. I also sprayed all the holes with WD-40 as they had never been used and were quite cruddy. Please note that the car is supposed to be sitting on all 4 tires for the end links to line up properly. With car on jack stands, I jacked up the lower control arms instead providing the same effect and allowed me to stay under the car. Here's with the bushing in place. This is a cut bushing... I ended up loosening the top nut and re-centered the bushing you see here as it was slightly off center. The washer below it is fixed and is smaller than the new washers making the larger bushing harder to seat. Top bushing (cut) All done… bad pic but I wasn't jacking the car up again for you slackers… Now, go out and feel the wonder of power-on oversteer - Be careful! By DrewQ45 [post_title] => Q45 Rear Sway Bar Installation / Upgrade [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-rear-sway-bar-installation-upgrade [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-12 21:47:10 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-13 04:47:10 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [79] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1341 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By Wes Stinson Feel free to contact me with any questions about any of the things on this article. So, you want to make your Q better? You want to make it faster, handle better, and make it look sharper. Despite what you may think, it is much easier than you think. This is based primarily on the 1st generation Q45, as there are very few things you can do to the 2nd and 3rd generation that are not mainstream (wheels, window tint, stereo, etc) Drive train Personally, I like sleepers. That is what makes the Q so great, no one expects that this car is going to be fast, hell; very few people even know what they are and what they are capable of. Here is an abstract of what you can do to enhance your Q45’s drive train performance. Each subject will be broken down further below. There are more things that you can do, but I only recommend what I would do to my car! * NICO ECU * IPT Transmission (similar but superior to Level Ten in my opinion) * Precision Industries Billet Torque Converter * 4.08 Rear Gears * Stillen/Jim Wolf Nitrous * Supercharger * Carbon Fiber Driveshaft * Exhaust * Headers NICO ECU - Estimated Cost- $105-$195, depending on options. The NICO ECU is simply a reprogrammed engine computer for the 90-95 Q45 (currently 96+ cars are not covered). This enhances drivability, and should drop the Q45’s ¼ mile times from low to mid 15s, to high 14s. The NICO ECU gives 30HP proven on the dyno, and has no effect on fuel economy (it may result in higher fuel economy!) or emissions. The engine redlines at 7400 RPM instead of the factory 6900 (which is very safe and does not harm the engine). The best way I can describe it for daily driving is that it makes the dead spots in the Qs driving experience much less dead, and as you approach high RPM’s the car just pulls like a bat out of hell! As some may know, JWT (Jim Wolf Technology) makes an ECU for the Q45, and our ECU consistently outperforms JWT’s ECU. Not to mention, our ECU costs about $500 less than JWT’s with more performance. This modification is by far the best modification you can do for the money. If you are interested in one of these ECU’s, please send me an email at [email protected] with any questions BEFORE you buy! Upgraded Transmission - Estimated cost around $3500, depending on options. There are 2 places in the country that specialize in rebuilding Nissan automatic transmissions: Level Ten and IPT (Import Performance Transmission). This is really only a necessary modification if you plan on running big power. If you want the snappier shifting that these upgraded transmissions give, you can simply buy a shift kit, which consists of a valve body and solenoids. Your transmission will last longer and the shift kit is less than $500. This mod does not really improve the car’s performance as far as reducing ¼ mile times, but it will allow the car to handle more power, as the Q45’s weakest link in the drive train is by far the transmission. PLEASE NOTE THAT YOU NEED TO PUT AN EXTERNAL TRANS COOLER ON YOUR Q45 REGARDLESS OF YEAR, MILEAGE, OR ANYTHING! Billet Torque Converter - Cost is roughly $700 This is best complimented by the upgraded transmission shown above. The billet torque converter has a higher stall speed, which increases low end acceleration. Places can rebuild your stock torque converter for slightly cheaper; however they will not last as long, and are not nearly as efficient. High end power will decrease marginally. 4.08 rear end - Cost Varies The Q45 is equipped stock with a 3.54 differential LSD. You can increase to 4.08 gears and greatly improve the Q45’s acceleration. Currently the only way to have this is to have them custom built, using Nissan ring and pinion gears. Most 4x4 shops can handle this with some light fabrication, however it's not a job for the typical mechanic. The Skyline 4.08 will work as well, but requires professional swapping of the input flange (and the depth of the flange nut determines pinion depth). However new avenues are being explored. Please check back for updates! This is one thing that Y33 (97-01 Q45) owners can appreciate. A 300ZX 4.08 differential from 90-96 will bolt right in! Nitrous - Around $1000 JWT/Stillen (Stillen sells and rebadges the JWT setup) sells a nitrous kit. Basically, it is a simple 100 dry shot NOS brand kit that is ECU controlled. The NICO ECU does not currently support a nitrous program; however it is currently under development. I have the JWT nitrous setup on my Q and it is very safe and effective. You will probably want to upgrade the transmission to handle the extra power reliably. Supercharger - Cost around $3500 Despite popular opinion, there is a developed Q45 supercharger, however if you are seriously interested you MUST contact me, and I will give you the details you need. It is an Eaton roots type setup that runs around 6-7lbs of boost, with or without water injection. Please contact me if you are serious about the setup, the supercharger has not been recently installed on Q45s, but it was done in the late 90s with phenomenal results. It is a proven setup, it does work, and someone simply needs to step up to the plate to do it. Carbon Fiber Driveshaft - $1200 ACPT makes a carbon fiber driveshaft that will decrease ¼ mile times by about .1 to .2 seconds. Please contact ACPT for more information. Exhaust Currently there is only one aftermarket bolt-on exhaust for the Q45 (www.BRMexhaust.com). However the stock Q45 pipes are very large for an engine of its size and you can simply weld in new mufflers for the sound you want. Dynomax makes a great dual in dual out muffler that sounds great. Headers Headers are currently being developed for the Q45, please check back later. Suspension and Brakes Believe it or not, the Q can be modified the most to the suspension and brakes .Here is an overview of what you can do to the Q45s suspension and brakes. * Polyurethane bushings for the differential, sub frame, steering rack, and sway bars. * Adjustable front tension rods and upper links * Rear suspension components * Tokico Blue Shocks * Eibach (discontinued) or California Custom Springs * 300ZX brakes * Q45a 20mm rear sway bar * Front Strut Tower Brace PLEASE NOTE: Most of these suspension modifications will not do much good unless you have good tires. Please, before doing any of this stuff; get yourself a good set of tires. Bushings Pretty much all of the bushings for a 300ZX will fit on the Q45. You can order polyurethane bushings for the differential, rear sub frame, steering rack, and sway bars. The differential, sub frame, and steering rack are all the same as the 300ZX. The sway bar END LINKS are the same as the 300ZX, however the support bushings are different. The specs for the Q45 sway bars are as follows, the measurement is the diameter. Standard Q45s come with a 29mm front sway bar and no rear sway bar. Q45t’s come with a 28mm front sway bar and a 16mm rear sway bar. Q45a’s come with a 28mm front sway bar and 20mm rear sway bar. Adjustable suspension 300ZX suspension components and are adjustable will fit into the Q45. The most common things in the front would be the upper control arms (upper links) and the tension rods. SPL (splparts.com) sells these for the Z32 and they bolt right into the Q45. Same goes for the rear as well. The benefit to doing this is that there is less play since there are no bushings (simply bearings) and it results in tighter steering. Plus, you can get your Q’s alignment into perfect specs with these. Tokico Blues Most people know about the Tokico blue shocks for the 90-96 Q45. They are the way to go for shocks, they are about 15% stiffer than the factory but ride is very similar and cost much less. The ride is still very plush with the Tokico shocks and stock springs. California Custom Springs I can get you a set of California custom 2in drop springs. They are not for sale anywhere else; please contact me if you are interested. They drop the car 2 inches, which makes it look just great. It is what I currently have on my Q. I had the Eibach springs before, and the car handles AND rides better compared to the Eibachs. They are a progressive spring, so they really tighten up when you start to take turns fast. They are a great mod to your cars looks and handling, it gets rid of that awful body lean the stock Q45s are known for. 300ZX (Z32) Brakes The 300ZX brakes are a great mod to do. I have done them on my Q45, and I can answer any questions you have. You will want the 30mm versions for your Q. They use a 4 piston fixed caliper instead of the 2 piston sliding caliper. They look great behind your wheels and provide you much better stopping. Not to mention, they are cheaper than stock brakes. Rotors are about 2/3s of the cost, and there is a lot of high performance, yet inexpensive pad options for the Z32 calipers. You can also bolt on the Brembo brakes from the G35 and 350Z cars, but they are more expensive and harder to source. Z32 brakes are the way to go. Note: The calipers will not clear the factory 15s without spacers, you can install spacers easily for about $100, or you can buy a set of wheels that clear the 300ZX brakes. Most 350Z, G35, and 300ZX wheels will clear. You will want to run a 15mm spacer with the factory wheels. For my winter wheels, I have a set of spacers so that I can run my 15s. Q45a Sway Bar -$278 from Infiniti of Scottsdale, cheaper in a wrecking yard The Q45a came with a 20mm rear sway bar. This modification will really make your Q understeer much less. It is a great modification for the money, and probably the best thing you can do for the Q’s suspension assuming you have good shocks and tires. FSTB The Front Strut Tower Brace, currently manufactured by Jeff Williams is a very easy bolt on modification that you can install in minutes. It runs between the 2 front strut towers, and the point is to make them stay apart, making the front feel much stiffer. It really makes the Q feel much more confident around corners. [post_title] => Infiniti Q45 Introduction to Performance Modifications [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-performance-2 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-08-24 00:25:01 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-08-24 07:25:01 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [80] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1342 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Facts Built in Japan. Produced 1989-1996. Year-to-Year Changes (Src: Consumer Guide, some changes made) 1990 Infiniti Q45: The 1990 Q45 is the most sought after by performance enthusiasts for having the tightest and most responsive steering, quickest shifting, and an actual power rating of 300-305hp. Because of a "gentleman's agreement" among Japanese manufacturers, vehicles above a certain horsepower rating were not exported. Infiniti advertised 278hp, lower than actual output. Dealers offered BBS wheels, wood trim, and window tint as an option for customers. These options were not provided by Nissan. 1991 Infiniti Q45: Two new options joined for 1991: a traction-control system, and the world's first production "Full-Active Suspension (FAS)" In that latter setup, computer-controlled hydraulic actuators at each wheel generate forces in response to signals from 10 sensors to counteract body lean, nose lift and nose dive, and fore/aft pitch on wavy surfaces. 1992 Infiniti Q45: Cars with the Full-Active Suspension were now named "Q45A." In response to customer complaints, steering became lighter and shifts became smoother. 1993 Infiniti Q45: Monotone interiors replaced the former 2 tones, and steering wheels and other items adopted color-keying. All Q45s from here onward start off the line in first gear. Formerly, they started in second for smoother takeoffs. 1994 Infiniti Q45: The '94 Q45 arrived in spring 1993, adding a passenger-side airbag. The restyled front end featured a chrome grille and fog lamps. All Q45s now had front seatbelt pretensioners, softer leather seats, and wood inlays. Interiors adopted a friendlier layout with natural earth tones and factory wood trim around the shifter console. Side bolstering was reduced for comfort, and the seat bottoms widened to better accommodate larger drivers. Suspension bushings were softened for an easier and smoother ride. This is the last year for optional HICAS four-wheel steering, used to improve handling at highway speeds. Transmission cooling was significantly improved in response to to early failures in previous models. Thicker windows reduced road noise, making the 1994-1996 Q45 one of the quietest luxury cars sold in the United States. Air conditioning in 1994 began using the environmentally friendly R134a refrigerant, with additional condenser fans to make up for 134's reduced effectiveness. The piepan-style wheels in 1994 were replaced with turbine-style wheels with long spokes. 1995 Infiniti Q45: New alloy wheels. In late 1994, the one-touch sunroof open feature apparently disappeared. This is the last year for the Q45a with fully active height-adjustable suspension. 1996 Infiniti Q45: V8 engines deleted variable valve timing to meet new US emissions standards. Power was still advertised as 278hp, but now reflected actual output. ODB II was introduced, making diagnostics a bit easier. This year some leather interior pieces were replaced with vinyl. Metal handles were replaced with plastic. The headliner material also changed, possibly in late 1995. Due to financial difficulties, Nissan was forced to take these measures on the interior, but the 96 Q45 is among the most reliable and easiest to diagnose of the G50 series, as well as the most environmentally friendly on emissions. 1997 Infiniti Q45: The second-generaion Q45, originally based on the JDM short-wheelbase Nissan President, was replaced by the less powerful but lighter Nissan Cima, using a 4.1L 266hp V8 (VH41DE). Performance was much improved over the heavy 1996 model, the interior had more room, the ride was more compliant, but handling suffered. The analog clock disappeared but returned in later years. The original Nissan President was sold in Japan from 1990-2002. Dimensions (Src: NICO) Infiniti Q45 4-door sedan Wheelbase, in. 113.4 Overall Length, in. 199.8 Overall Width, in. 71.9 Overall Height, in. 56.3 Curb Weight, lbs. 4039 Cargo Volume, cu. ft. 14.8 Standard Payload, lbs. -- Fuel Capacity, gals. 22.5 Seating Capacity 5 Front Head Room, in. 38.2 Max. Front Leg Room, in. 43.9 Rear Head Room, in. 36.3 Min. Rear Leg Room, in. 32.0 Powertrain Engine: 90-96 4.5L DOHC 32v V8 (VH45DE) 4494 cc 274 ci 93x82.7 mm 10.2:1 compression HP: 278 at 6000 rpm* Torque: 292 lb-ft at 4000 rpm Transmissions: 90-93 RE4R03A 51x65 transmission 4 speed auto Gear Ratio 1st 2.784:1 2nd 1.544:1 3rd 1.000:1 4th 0.694:1 R200V viscous limited slip differential Final Drive Ratio: 3.538:1 94-96 RE4R03A 51x79 transmission 4 speed auto Gear Ratio 1st 2.569:1 2nd 1.479:1 3rd 1.000:1 4th 0.694:1 R200V viscous limited slip differential Final Drive Ratio: 3.538:1 *Due to a limitation set by a Japanese manufacturer's agreement, the power and torque are greater than advertised, estimated at 300-305hp. Fuel Consumption EPA MPG City: 17 EPA MPG Highway: 22 Technical Reference Specifications (Src: "vududoc" on NICO) 1990-1996 Q45 Engine Oil SAE 10W-30 (API SG, SH & Energy Conserving II) With Oil Filter 6 3/8 qt Without Oil Filter 5 7/8 qt Please see the engine oil guide for other reccommendations. Tune up Spark Plugs (Platinum) Standard Type PFR5G-11 Cold Type PFR6G-11 PFR7G-11 Ignition Timing 15° ± 2° BTDC Base Idle speed 600 ± 25 rpm Curb Idle (target) 650 ± 50 rpm Idle Mixture Ratio Less than 8 % CO Throttle Position Sensor T/P Closed Approx. 0.6 kÙ T/P Open Approx. 5 kÙ Idle position voltage 0.35 - 0.65V Closed T/P Sw On rpm 810 ± 150 rpm Radiator Fill Coolant Type Ethylene Glycol Coolant Capacity 10 7/8 qt Reservoir Tank 3/4 qt Compression Test Standard 185 psi Minimum 142 psi Diff Between Cyl. 14 psi Fuel System Fuel Pump Pressure @ Idle Vacuum applied at fuel pressure regulator 34 psi Vacuum released at fuel pressure regulator 43 psi Recommended Fuel 91 Octane Fuel Pump Ù 0.2 - 5 Ù Fuel Injector Ù 10 - 14 Ù Sensors Ft/Rr O2 Sen Heaters 2.3 - 4.3 Ù Crank Position Sensor 68 °F (20°C) 470 - 570 Ù Mass Air Flow Sensor Supply Volt. 11 - 14 V Output Volt 1 - 1.7 V Mass Air Flow At Idle 3.0 - 6.0 gm/sec 2500 rpm 12.9 - 25.3 gm/sec Coolant Temp Sensor Ù 14 °F (-10°C) 7 - 11.4 kÙ 68°F (20°C) 2.1 - 2.9 kÙ 122°F (50°C) 0.68 - 1.00 kÙ 194°F (90°C) 0.236 - 0.260 kÙ IACV-AAC Valve Ù Approx. 10 Ù EGR Temp Sensor Ù 32°F (0°C) 7.9 - 9.7 mÙ 122°F (50°C) 0.57 - 0.70 mÙ 212°F (100°C) 0.08 - 0.010 mÙ Fuel Tank Temp Sensor Ù 68°F (20°C) 2.3 - 2.7 kÙ 122°F (50°C) 0.79 - 0.90 kÙ Intake Air Temp Sensor 68°F (20°C) 2.1 - 2.9 kÙ 176°F (80°C) 0.27 - 0.38 kÙ Electrical Ignition System Firing Order 1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2 Ignition Coil Primary Voltage 12V Primary Ù Approx. 0.7 Ù Secondary Ù Approx. 8 kÙ Battery Specs. Type 95D31R Capacity 12V / 80 AH Discharge Amp 622 A Alternator Type LR1110-701 Nom. Rated Out 12v / 110 A Reg. Volt 14.1 - 14.7 V Hot Output amp More than 34 A / 1300 rpm More than 82 A / 2500 rpm More than 105 A / 5000 rpm EPA Mileage Estimate (city/highway) 17/22 Front Wheel Alignment Toe-in Range Total toe-in (A-B) 0.0 - 0.08 in (0 - 2 mm) Total toe-in angle (left + right)0° - 0.17° (0’ - 11’) Nominal Total toe-in (A-B) 0.04 in (1 mm) Total toe-in angle (left + right)0.08° (5’) Range Nominal Front Wheel Turning Angle (full turn) In/Wheel Range 35.50° - 39.50° 38.50°(38°30’) (35°30’ - 39°30’) Out/Wheel Nominal 32° Camber Range -1.58° to 0.08° -0.83° (-0°50’) (-1°35’ to 0°05’) Lt/Rt Difference 0.75° (45’) Caster Range 5.75° - 7.25° 6.50° (6°30’)(5°45’ - 7°15’) Lt/Rt Difference 0.75°(45’) Kingpin Inclination Range 12.00° - 13.50° 12.75° (12°45’) (12°00’ - 13°30’) Rear Wheel Alignment Toe-in Range Total toe-in (A-B) 0.0 - 0.08 in (0 - 2 mm) Nominal Total toe-in (A-B) 0.04 in (1 mm) Total toe-in angle (left + right) 0.00°- 0.17°(0’-10’) 0.08° (5’) Camber Range -1.58° to -0.08° -0.83° (-0°50’) (-1°35’ to -0°05’) W/Lug Nut Torque 72-87 ft/lb (10-12 kg/m) Brake System Brake Model Code Front Disc Brake Rear Disc Brake CL28VF AD11B Brake Fluid DOT 3 (Recommended) Master Cyl. Bore Dia. 1 in (25.4 mm) Front Disc Brake Cylinder Bore Dia. 1.685 in (42.8 mm) Brake Pad Dimensions Length 5.0 in (127 mm) Width 0.433 in (11.0 mm) Thickness 0.433 in (11.0 mm) Brake Pad Wear Limit Min. Thickness 0.374 in (9.5 mm) Brake Rotor Dimensions Outer Diameter 11.02 in (280 mm) Standard Thickness 1.10 in (28.0 mm) Brake Rotor Repair/Wear Limits Max. Runout 0.0028 in (0.07 mm) Min. Thickness 1.024 in (26.0 mm) Max. Thickness Variation (at least 8 positions) 0.0004 in (0.01 mm) Rear Disc Brake Cylinder Bore Dia 1.50 in (38.2 mm) Brake Pad Dimensions Length 3.835 in (97.4 mm) Width 1.335 in (33.9 mm) Thickness 0.39 in (10.0 mm) Brake Pad Wear Limit Min. Thickness 0.059 in (1.5 mm) Brake Rotor Dimensions Outer Diameter 11.50 in (292 mm) Standard Thickness 0.35 in (9.0 mm) Brake Rotor Repair/Wear Limits Max. Runout 0.0028 in (0.07 mm) Min. Thickness 0.31 in (8.0 mm) Max. Thickness Variation (at least 8 positions) 0.0008 in (0.02 mm)) Brake Pedal Dimen. Free Height 'H' 7.24 - 7.64 in (184 - 194 mm) Depressed Height 'D' 3.94 - 4.33 in (100 - 110 mm) Pedal Free Play 'A' 0.039 - 0.118 in (1.0 - 3.0 mm) Switch Clearance 'C' 0.012 - 0.039 in (0.3 - 1.0 mm) Brake Booster Model M215T Output Rod Length 0.4045 - 0.4144 in (10.275 - 10.525 mm) Clevis Length Approx. 5.51 in (140 mm) Parking Drum Brake DS17HD Inside Diameter 6.77 in(172 mm) Brake Shoe Dimension Length 6.07 in(154.1 mm) Width 0.984 in (25.0 mm) Thickness 0.118 in(3.0 mm) Parking Drum Brake Repair/Wear Limit Max Inside Diameter 6.81 in (173.0 mm) Shoe Minimum Thk. 0.059 in (1.5 mm) Parking Brake Control Number of Notches 5 - 6 ABS Wheel Sensor Clearance Frt 0.0083- 0.028 in (0.21 - 0.71 mm) Clearance Rr 0.0138 - 0.0246 in (0.35 - 0.625 mm) Resistance 0.8 - 1.2 kÙ Wheel Lug Nut 72-87 ft lb (10-12 kg-m) [post_title] => Infiniti Q45 Technical Data / Specifications / Capacities [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-specifications-capacities [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-09-02 22:32:03 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-09-03 05:32:03 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [81] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1343 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Resolving Rough Idle
By Jesda Gulati

Fuel Injectors - Bad gas or regional mixtures tend to result in
early injector failures. A fuel smell in the cabin also hints
at injector problems. Non-OEM injectors are not recommended.
Learn how to test your injectors

Fuel System- Purchase a can of BG44k
from Infiniti of Scottsdale and add it to a 3/4 tank of gas.
Repeat this in 2 months. Chevron w/Techron can be used every
3000 miles if BG44k is not available. However, despite being
the best off-the-shelf choice, it is not nearly as effective
or cost-efficient. Gas-line water remover (such as Heet or
GasDry) ought to be added to every tank of fuel that contains
ethanol.

A fuel rail flush typically costs around $130 at a dealer.

Electrical - A bad
alternator, battery, battery cables or terminals will fail to
properly charge the battery and can cause idle
fluctuations. Optima is the preferred brand of battery for the
Q45. A temporary fix is to charge the battery using a separate
charger, or have a place like Autozone
do it for you.

MAF Sensor
- Steps on how to clean it for $3. A failed MAF (mass air
flow) sensor or MAF connector can cause
fluctuating idle, stalling, and bucking at any speed. The MAF
connector changed in 1995. A MAF or connector can be purchased
from Scottsdale Infiniti. A used MAF may work as well.

Throttle Body - Steps on how to partially clean it for $3.

Auxilary Air Control - How to clean the AAC for improved idle and
cruise.

Knock Sensors or KS
Bad Gas
Seafoam
Oxygen Sensors or O2 Sensors
Crank Angle Sensor or CAS
Throttle Position Sensor
or TPS

[post_title] => Infiniti Q45 Rough Idle Diagnosis [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-rough-idle-diagnosis [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:41:27 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:41:27 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [82] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1344 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => I actually looked in the FSM and owner's manual and couldn't find this so I went to the garage and here's what I found...

Remove the clips on the duct by prying the centers out with a small screw driver.

Unsnap the four retainer clips

Remove the 10MM bolt that holds the back side of the air box to the body.

Then you can push the back side of the box backward and the front side forward to remove the filter.It's tight but it can be done. [post_title] => Infiniti G35 Air Filter Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => g35-air-filter-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-17 20:03:15 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-18 03:03:15 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [83] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1345 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Is your Glove Box hanging? Dangling? Living in the trunk? Do you not want to search for a new glove box hoping that it'll be the right color and that the hinges won't break on it, too? Why not manufacture some hinges of your own that are stronger than stock and much less costly than buying a new door? Items needed: new hinge, hinge that screws into the car, flat head and Phillips screw driver, pliers, sheet metal screws, maybe glue. First, separate metal hinges, I used a screw driver and a pair of pliers, keep the solid pin. Secondly remove the plastic hinges from inside the cavern where your glove box should be. Remove the hollow pins. Insert solid pin in the plastic hinge and wrap the arms of the metal hinge around the solid pin. Notice which direction the arms wrap around the pin in coordination with the plastic hinge. Pictured below. Remove the remains of the old hinges , make it at least semi smooth, doesn't need to be perfect, just not too bumpy. Next, align the metal hinges centered basically where the old hinges existed. Drill pilot holes so the plastic doesn't split. Use sheet metal screws to fasten the hinges down, make sure not to over tighten, it'd probably strip out the screw holes! Drivers side hinge pic 1 Drivers side hinge pic 2 Passengers side pic 1 Passengers side pic 2 Now, try installing it in the car. This is when we want to make sure everything lines up smoothly before we finalize the installation. If it doesn't line up quite right double check everything was done properly and try tweaking it, but if it went smoothly, it should, You're done! Unless you want to pull it back out, remove the screws on the metal hinges and put a drop of glue on them to help them seat in there a little tighter. There you go, new glove box hinges on the cheap. If made properly they should last longer than just shelling out the cash for a new glove box door with the plastic OEM hinges. By John "magus_blackomen" [post_title] => Infiniti Q45 Glove Box Hinge Repair [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-glove-box-repair [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-12 21:54:13 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-13 04:54:13 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [84] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1347 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Item:U12, U13 and AVENIR SR20DET/USDM SR20DE/JDM SR20DE

Description: 2.0 liter turbo motor or 2.0 liter Naturally Aspirated motor.
Purchased From: Soko Motors
Price: $250-1800

Item:SE-R 5spd Transmission
Description:Has Limited Slip Diff. Paid to get it welded to prevent case from cracking.
Purchased From:
Price: $450+$50 for welding.

Item:OEM SE-R Axles
Description:GA16DE Axles won't fit with SE-R Tranny
Purchased From:
Price:$60each

Item:Place Racing SE-R Motor Mounts
Description:You need SE-R motor Mounts, these are polyurethane filled. A cheaper option would be to find a set of OEM motor mounts and purchase the Energy Suspension Front and Rear Motor Mount inserts (about $50).
Purchased From: http://www.placeracing.com/
Price:$100-225

Item:Passenger Side Motor-Mount Bracket
Description:The Stock Passenger Side motor mount bracket on the U12 SR20DET will not work with SE-R motormounts. You need the passenger side bracket from a USDM SR20DE motor.
Purchased From:
Price:$40

Item:Rear Motor Mount BRACKET
Description:the Motor Mount BRACKET from the GA16DE will NOT work. They look VERY similar, but trust me the 1.6 won't work.
Purchased From:
Price:$50

Item:Front Motor Mount BRACKET
Description:The DET front "dogbone" mount bracket won't work either. JGY claims you can use the GA16DE bracket if you notch it and force it.Just get one from a USDM SR20DE.
Purchased From:
Price:$35

Item:SE-R Cross Member
Description:Only needed if swapping from AUTOMATIC to MANUAL! If you are going from a 1.6 5spd to a 2.0 5spd no need to purchase this. There seems to be alot of confusion about this.
Purchased From:
Price:$35

Item:SE-R 5speed Transmission mount BRACKET
Description:Only needed if swapping from AUTOMATIC to MANUAL! If you are going from a 1.6 5spd to a 2.0 5spd no need to purchase this.
Purchased From:
Price:$40

Item:SE-R Clutch Cable BRACKET
Description:This is the bracket that bolts to the SE-R transmission and holds the clutch cable. Trust me, the 1.6 bracket won't work.
Purchased From: Came with SE-R tranny
Price:

Item: ECU
Description: Either JWT reflashed ECU for SR20DET or Stock SR20DET ECU, or stock SE-R ECU w/SAFC or emanage.Stock SE-R/NX2K ECU for SR20DE
Purchased From:
Price:$50-550

Item:SR20DE Harness
Description:The BlueBird wiring harness doesn't match up with your underdash harness. Save yourself headaches and just get the SR20DE harness!
Purchased From:
Price:$100

Item: Clutch - Clutch - ACT NX9HDSS or Heavy duty clutch of your preference
Description:Heavy Duty Pressure Plate - Super Street Disc/OEM clutch for NA applications.
Purchased From:
Price:$150-400

Item:SE-R Starter
Description:GA16DE Starter won't work.
Purchased From:
Price:$40

Item:Walbro Fuel Pump for BlueBird SR20DET
Description:Make sure you get the kit for the sentra SR20DET swap.Not needed for SR20DE swap.
Purchased From:
Price:$100

Item:Spark Plugs - NGK
Description:New OEM Plugs, most people suggest getting the copper plugs over the Irridium plugs. NGK BKR6E for NA application, NGK BKR7E for tubo
Purchased From:www.sparkplugs.com, I have had good luck with local motorcycle shops.
Price:$10-40

Item:SE-R MAF
Description:Mass Air Flow Sensor - If you are going to use a B13 SR20DET ECU, then get the B13 MAF. If you are going to use a JDM U12 BlueBird SR20DET ECU, use the B13 MAF. If you are going to use a u13 BlueBird SR20DET ECU, then you need a JDM U13 MAF.
Purchased From:
Price:$50

Item:SE-R TPS Sensor
Description:Throttle Position Sensor, my SR20DET Came with an AUTO TPS (6 wires instead of 3) Just find a USDM B13 SE-R TPS Sensor.
Purchased From:
Price:$25

Item:JDM BB o2 Sensor / Stock SE-R o2 Sensor
Description:If you use a U12 BB ECU then you need the JDM U12 BB o2 sensor. If you use the USDM B13 SE-R ECU, then you need the USDM o2 sensor + adapter nut that the o2 screws into from a SE-R exhaust manifold.
Purchased From:
Price:$35

Item:2.5” or 3" Down Pipe
Description:3" Exhaust pipe from turbo outlet to cat. You can get one made locally for about half the cost!
Purchased From:
Price:$200

Item:U12 SR20DET Plastic Intake Tube
Description:May or may not come with motor, This piece runs from the Air Filter and Maf to the turbo inlet.NA applications, custom intake or stock SE-R/NX intake tube.
Purchased From:
Price:$30

Item:NX2K Radiator
Description:1.6 Radiator Won't Work, Inlet/outlet diameters on the radiator are too small.NX2K Radiator is 2 row, works very well with turbo applications.
Purchased From:
Price:$100

Almost all items can be purchased either from one of our sponsors, SE-R.net, local parts store, local junk yard or classified section. [post_title] => Sentra 1.6 GA16DE to 2.0 SR20DET Engine Swap [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => sentra-sr20det-engine-swap [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:50:36 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:50:36 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [85] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1348 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Like so many modern components on our cars, the Infiniti steering rack can be a sneaky little bugger to diagnose. Take, for example, the J30, which uses an Infiniti steering rack very similar to that on other models. On this car, the Infiniti steering rack is located directly in front of the transmission bellhousing, and uses ATF as power steering fluid. Thus what may appear to be a transmission front pump leak may actually be an Infiniti steering rack leak. And, while not cheap, an Infiniti steering rack is far less expensive to fix than an Infiniti transmission!

If you find that your Q45 or I30 has what appears to be a transmission leak, be sure to keep an eye on the Infiniti steering rack fluid, which is usually located in a reservoir on top of the engine. Not only can Infiniti steering rack fluid leakage cause a misdiagnosis of a perfectly healthy part, but a low fluid level can also destroy your Infiniti steering rack.

Consequently, you end up with an unnecessary transmission rebuild and then require a new Infiniti steering rack—on the upside, your mechanic will be having a good month! Some of the symptoms of Infiniti steering rack failure, besides fluid leakage, include hard steering, especially if it’s intermittent, and odd noises coming from the Infiniti steering rack itself. So keep an eye on things both under your car and in the engine compartment, check your fluids often, and your Infiniti steering rack will be with you for a good, long time. [post_title] => Infiniti Steering Rack Information [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-steering-rack [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 15:00:53 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 22:00:53 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [86] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1349 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => For decades, the aftermarket hot rod, racing and tuning communities have relied on oiled-media filters to free up that extra few horsepower. In fact, it's often one of the FIRST modifications many automotive enthusiasts do to their car. K&N filters, to their credit, is generally known to be the top name in oiled filters, and they do a great job of building a quality product. However, it's always important to evaluate the claims and see exactly what you're getting for your money. This report shows, with empirical data and sound reasoning, why OEM filters perform better in a variety of areas. Special thanks to Arlen Spicer and all others involved in making this information available. A note from the author: The reason I started this crusade was that I was seeing people spend a lot of money on aftermarket filters based on the word of a salesperson or based on the misleading, incomplete or outright deceiving information printed on boxes and in sales literature. Gentlemen and Ladies, marketing and the lure of profit is VERY POWERFUL! It is amazing how many people believe that better airflow = more power! Unless you have modifications out the wazoo, a more porous filter will just dirty your oil! Some will say, "I have used aftermarket brand X for XXX # years with no problems." The PROBLEM is you spent a chunk of change on a product that not only DID NOT increase your horsepower, but also let in a lot of dirt while doing it! Now how much is a lot? ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY is TOO MUCH! Others are persuaded by the claims of aftermarket manufacturers that their filters filter dirt "better than any other filter on the market." Sounds very enticing. To small timers like you and me, spending $1500 to test a filter sounds like a lot. But if you were a filter manufacturer and you believed your filter could filter dirt better than any other media on the market, wouldn't you want to prove it? Guess what. Test your filter vs. the OE paper. It will cost you $3000 and for that price you will have the data that you can use in your advertisements. Your investment will be returned a thousand fold! EASIER than shooting fish in a barrel! So why don't these manufacturers do this? Hmmm? Probably not because they would feel guilty about taking more market share. Now I am not saying that ALL aftermarket filters are useless. A paper filter does not do well if directly wetted or muddy. It may collapse. This is why many off-road filters are foam. It is a compromise between filtering efficiency and protection from a collapsed filter. Now how many of our vehicles collapse their filters from mud and water? However, if a filter is using "better airflow" as their marketing tool, remember this....Does it flow better? At very high airflow volumes, probably. BUT, our engines CAN'T flow that much air unless super-modified, so what is the point? The stock filter will flow MORE THAN ENOUGH AIR to give you ALL THE HORSEPOWER the engine has to give. And this remains true until the filter is dirty enough to be recognizeable. At that point performance will decline somewhat. Replace the filter and get on with it. Hopefully the results of this test will do 2 things. Shed some light on the misleading marketing claims of some aftermarket manufacturers and/or give us new insight on products already on the market that are superior to our OE filter. SCOPE: This report presents the results of an ISO 5011 test of several air filters designed for the GM Duramax Diesel. The test was independently performed under controlled conditions using a $285,000 machine at Testand Corp of Rhode Island (manufacturer of the machine). Arlen Spicer, a GM Duramax Diesel owner/enthusiast organized the test. Testand offered to perform the tests at no charge. (These tests typically cost approx $1700.00 per filter). Ken (and employee of Testand), a Diesel enthusiast and owner of a Ford Power Stroke Diesel, shared Arlen’s interest in performing an accurate unbiased test of different types and brands of diesel engine air filters. The filters used in the test were purchased retail and donated by Arlen and other individual Duramax Diesel owners. The detailed reports from the test have been compiled and are presented in the following pages. The final pages of this report present the behind the test. ISO 5011 Test: The ISO 5011 Standard (formerly SAE J726) defines a precise filter test using precision measurements under controlled conditions. Temperature & humidity of the test dust and air used in the test are strictly monitored and controlled. As Arlen learned in attempting his own tests, there are many variables that can adversely affect filter test results. A small temperature change or a small change in humidity can cause the mass of a paper filter to change by several grams. To obtain an accurate measure of filter efficiency, it’s critical to know the EXACT amount of test dust being fed into the filter during the test. By following the ISO 5011 standard, a filter tested in Germany can be compared directly compared to another filter tested 5 years later in Rhode Island. The ISO 5011 filter test data for each filter is contained in two test reports; Capacity-Efficiency and Flow Restriction. Capacity and Efficiency: The Capacity and Efficiency test report presents the test results of feeding an initially clean filter with PTI Course Test Dust (dirt) at a constant rate and airflow. The course test dust has a specific distribution of particle sizes ranging from less than 2.5 microns to greater than 80 microns (see table below). Every filter is initially tested at 350 CFM and the Initial Restriction or differential pressure across the filter is recorded in IN-H20 (Inches of Water). The filter is then tested by feeding test dust at a nominal rate of 9.8 grams per minute with a constant airflow of 350 CFM. The test is continued until the flow restriction exceeds the Initial Restriction + 10 IN-H20. At this point the test is terminated and the amount of dust passed through the filter (Accumulative Gain) is measured. Dirt passing through the filter is captured in the Test Station’s Post Filter. The exact amount of dirt passed is determined by measuring the before and after weight of the Post Filter. Similarly, the amount of dirt retained by the Filter under test - Accumulative Capacity – is measured by taking the difference between the before and after weights of the Filter. From these results the overall % Efficiency of the filter is calculated. This test also indicates how long a Filter will last before replacement is required (or cleaning for reusable filters). Flow Restriction: This report presents flow restriction of a clean filter resulting from an increasing airflow. The differential pressure restriction across the filter is reported in inches of water (IN H2O) versus Air Flow in cubic feet per minute CFM. Data from these reports has been compiled and presented in the following bar graphs, plots and data tables. Filtering Efficiency: Filtering efficiency is a measure of the filter's overall ability to capture dirt. Accumulative Capacity: “Accumulative Capacity” is a measure of dirt holding/loading capacity before reaching the maximum restriction limit. Initial Restriction + 10 IN-H20. Accumulative Gain: "Accumulative Gain" is the total amount of dirt that passed through the filter during the test. (Note: The Purolator was reported to have a seal malfunction during the test and passed more dirt than it would have with a good seal.) Initial Restriction: Initial Restriction is the Filter under test’s resistance to flow at 350 CFM. Dirt Passed Versus Total Test Time: This graph shows each the duration of each filter’s test versus dirt passed (Accumulative Gain). (Note: The Purolator was reported to have a seal malfunction during the test and passed more dirt than it would have with a good seal.) In the chart above it’s important to note the different test durations for each filter. The AC Delco filter test ran for 60 minutes before exceeding the restriction limit while the AMSOIL and K&N tests each ran for 20 and 24 minutes respectively before reaching max restriction. In 60 minutes the AC Filter accumulated 574gms of dirt and passed only 0.4gms. After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons. Dust Loading: The dust loading curves show graphically how each filter responded to a constant 9.8 gms/min dust flow before reaching the maximum restriction limit. It’s interesting to note the shape of these Dust Loading Curves. The AC and Baldwin filters each had near linear responses until reaching maximum restriction. Restriction for these filters increased at a constant rate versus the 9.8 gms/min dust feed rate. The other filters, most notably the oiled reusable types, had an exponential loading response before reaching maximum restriction. These filters had a lower initial restriction, but they became exponentially more restrictive under a constant flow of dirt. This runs counter to the "myth" that oiled media filters actually "work better" as they get dirtier. Also notice the length of the curves as it shows the relative test time for each filter (time to max restriction). Restriction to Flow: The Restriction to Flow curves graphically show how each “clean” filter responded to a steadily increasing flow of air up to 350 CFM. The Flow Restriction response curves for each filter have the same basic shape. However, note how the AC Filter, which passed the smallest amount of dirt and had the highest dirt capacity and efficiency, also had the highest relative restriction to flow. The less efficient filters correspondingly had less restriction to flow. This illustrates the apparent trade-offs between optimizing a filter for dirt capturing ability and maximum airflow. We hope you've enjoyed this article - There's a lot more Nissan technical articles and useful "how-to" automotive tutorials here - Plus, the friendliest community of car enthusiasts on the web! Stick around and check out what we have to offer, and if you found this article helpful, share it on Facebook! [post_title] => Debunking the K&N Myth - Why OEM is Better [post_excerpt] => Before spending your money on an aftermarket filter, let's debunk the misleading and incomplete information about filtering and horsepower in the sales literature. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => kn-vs-oem-filter [to_ping] => [pinged] => https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/iii-guide-to-our-technical-information-articles-fsms-automotive-advice.html https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-technical-articles [post_modified] => 2020-01-09 21:43:22 [post_modified_gmt] => 2020-01-10 04:43:22 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [87] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1350 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Clearing Codes on the G35 and 350Z There are several ways to clear ECU error codes. - Scan Tool If using a scan tool, follow tool manufacturer’s instructions to clear Codes. - Manual Method Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" Light. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds. Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds: Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). Fully release the accelerator pedal. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) Wait about 10 seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. - With Consult Turn ignition Off. Connect Consult’the data link connector (DLC), located behind fuse box cover. Turn ignition On. Touch Start. Touch Engine. Perform each diagnostic test mode according to each service procedure. - Without Consult Turn ignition On. Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECU fully clockwise and wait until inspection lamps flash. #Number of flashes displayed indicates corresponding mode. Note number of flashes, then immediately turn diagnostic mode selector fully counterclockwise. If ignition is turned Off during diagnosis, in each mode, and then turned back on again after power to the ECU has dropped off completely, diagnosis will automatically return to Mode I. For description of modes, proceed as follows: (Mode I): with engine stopped, system in bulb check state. with engine running, system in malfunction warning state. (Mode II): with engine stopped, system in self diagnostic results state. with engine running, system in front O2S monitor state. - Codes P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated P0011 Intake Valve Timing Control P0021 Intake Valve Timing Control P0031 O2 Sensor Heather P0032 O2 Sensor Heather P0037 O2 Sensor Heather P0038 O2 Sensor Heather P0043 O2 Sensor Heather P0044 O2 Sensor Heather P0051 O2 Sensor Heather P0052 O2 Sensor Heather P0057 O2 Sensor Heather P0058 O2 Sensor Heather P0100 MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor P0101 MAF Sensor P0102 MAF Sensor P0103 MAF Sensor P0105 Absolute Pressure Sensor P0107 Absolute Pressure Sensor P0108 Absolute Pressure Sensor P0110 IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Sensor P0112 IAT Sensor P0113 IAT Sensor P0115 ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor P0117 ECT Sensor P0118 ECT Sensor P0120 TP (Throttle Position) Sensor P0121 TP Sensor P0122 TP Sensor P0123 TP Sensor P0125 ECT Sensor P0127 Intake Air Temperature Sensor P0128 Thermostat Function P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1 P0131 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Lean Shift Monitoring P0132 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Rich Shift Monitoring P0133 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Response Monitoring P0134 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 1 High Voltage P0135 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 1 P0136 Rear O2S, Bank 1 P0137 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Minimum Voltage Monitoring P0138 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring P0139 Rear O2S, Bank 1 Response Monitoring P0140 Rear O2S, Bank 1 High Voltage P0141 Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1 P0144 O2 Sensor Heather P0150 Closed Loop, Bank 2 Or Front O2S, Bank 2 P0151 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Lean Shift Monitoring P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring P0153 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Response Monitoring P0154 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 High Voltage P0155 Front HO2S Heater, Bank 2 P0156 Rear H02S Sensor, LH Bank P0157 Rear O2S, Bank 2 P0158 Rear O2S, Bank 2 P0159 Rear O2S, Bank 2 P0160 Rear O2S, Bank 2 P0161 Rear H02S Heater, LH Bank Or Bank 2 P0171 Fuel System Lean, Bank 1 P0172 Fuel System Rich, Bank 1 P0174 Fuel System Lean, Bank 2 P0175 Fuel System Rich, Bank 2 P0180 Tank Fuel Temp Sensor P0182 Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor P0183 Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor P0217 Engine Coolant High Temperature Enrichment Protection P0221 Throttle Position Sensor P0222 Throttle Position Sensor P0223 Throttle Position Sensor P0226 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P0227 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P0228 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P0245 Supercharger Bypass Valve Control Solenoid Valve P0300 Random Misfire P0301–*P0308 Misfire, Cylinder No. 1–8 P0325 Knock Sensor, Bank 1 P0327 Knock Sensor P0328 Knock Sensor P0330 Knock Sensor, Bank 2 P0335 CKP (Crank Shaft Position) Sensor P0340 CMP (Cam Shaft Position) Sensor (Phase) P0345 CMP Sensor (Phase) P0350 Ignition Signal P0400 EGR System P0402 EGRC/BPT Valve P0403 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit P0405 EGR Temperature Sensor P0406 EGR Temperature Sensor P0420 TW (Two-Way) Catalyst System, Bank 1 P0430 TW Catalyst System, Bank 2 P0440 EVAP Small Leak P0441 EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitor P0442 EVAP Control System P0443 Purge Control/V & S/V P0444 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve P0445 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve P0447 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve P0450 EVAP Pressure Sensor P0451 EVAP System Pressure Sensor P0452 EVAP System Pressure Sensor P0453 EVAP System Pressure Sensor P0455 EVAP Control System P0456 EVAP Control System P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Unit (Slow) P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Function P0462 Fuel Level Sensor P0463 Fuel Level Sensor P0464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor P0505 IACV/AAC Valve P0506 Idle Speed Control System P0507 Idle Speed Control System P0510 Closed TP Sensor P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor P0600 A/T Comm Line P0605 ECM/ECU P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp P0705 PNP Or Inhibitor Switch P0710 ATF Temp Sensor P0720 VSS A/T P0725 Engine Speed Signal P0731 A/T 1ST Signal P0732 A/T 2ND Signal P0733 A/T 3RD Signal P0734 A/T 4TH Signal Or TCC P0740 TCC SV Solenoid P0744 A/T TCC Signal P0745 Line Pressure S/V P0750 Shift Solenoid/V A P0755 Shift Solenoid/V B P1031 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Meter P1032 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Meter P1065 ECM Power Supply Heater P1102 Mass Air Flow Sensor Function Heater P1103 MAP Sensor Heater P1104 MAP Sensor Heater P1105 MAP/BARO Switch SOL/V P1108 MAP Sensor Heater P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank P1111 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve P1119 Radiator Temperature Sensor Circuit P1120 TP Sensor 2 P1121 Electronic Throttle Control Actuator P1122 Electronic Throttle Control Actuator P1124 Throttle Control Motor Relay P1125 Tandem TP Sensor P1126 Throttle Control Motor Relay P1128 Throttle Control Motor P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve P1131 Swirl Control Solenoid Valve P1132 Swirl Control Valve P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control, RH Bank 2 P1136 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve P1137 Swirl Control Valve Position Sensor P1138 Swirl Control Valve P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, LH Bank 1 P1143 Heated O2 Sensor 1 P1144 Heated O2 Sensor 1 P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 2 P1146 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1147 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1 P1163 Heated O2 Sensor 1 P1164 Heated O2 Sensor 1 P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch P1166 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1167 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1168 Closed Loop, Bank 2 P1169 Heated O2 Sensor 3 P1170 Heated O2 Sensor 3 P1210 Traction Control Signal Circuit P1211 ABS/TCS Control Unit P1212 ABS/TCS Communication Line P1217 Engine Coolant Temperature P1220 FPCM P1221 Throttle Actuator Circuit P1222 Temperature Sensor Circuit P1223 Throttle Position Sensor 2 P1224 Throttle Position Sensor 2 P1225 Closed Throttle Position Learning P1226 Closed Throttle Position Learning P1227 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 P1228 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 P1229 Sensor Power Supply P1271 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1272 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1273 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1274 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1276 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1278 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1279 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 P1320 Ignition Signal, Primary P1335 CKP Sensor (Ref) P1336 CKP Sensor (POS) Cog P1400 EGRC Solenoid/V P1401 EGR Temp Sensor P1402 EGR System P1440 EVAP Small Leak P1441 VC/V Bypass/V P1443 Canister Control Vacuum Check Switch P1444 Purge Volume Control/V P1445 Purge Volume Control/V P1446 Vent Control Valve P1447 EVAP Purge Flow P1448 Vent Control Valve P1456 EVAP Control System P1464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Ground Signal P1480 Fan Control Solenoid Valve Circuit P1490 VC/V Bypass/V P1491 VC Cut/V Bypass/V P1492 Purge Control/V S/V P1493 Purge Control/V & S/V P1564 ASCD Steering Switch P1568 ICC (Intelligent Cruise Control) P1572 ASCD (Automatic Sped Control Device) Brake Switch P1574 ASCD Vehicle Speed Sensor P1605 A/T Diag Comm Line P1610 NATS Malfunction P1611 NATS Malfunction P1612 NATS Malfunction P1613 NATS Malfunction P1614 NATS Malfunction P1615 NATS Malfunction P1705 TP Sensor A/T P1706 PNP Switch P1720 Vehicle Speed Sensor- A/T Output P1760 Overrun Clutch S/V P1775 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve P1776 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve P1780 Shift Change Signal P1800 VIAS Control Solenoid Valve P1805 Brake switch P1900 Cooling Fan P2122 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P2123 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor P2127 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 P2128 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 P2135 Throttle Position Sensor P2138 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor [post_title] => 350Z Diagnostic ECU Codes and How to Clear Them [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-ecu-codes [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2014-12-19 07:42:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2014-12-19 14:42:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [88] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1352 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Changing trans oil on a G35 6MT:

NOTE:Do NOT use GL5 transmission fluid. It will damage the synchros in the Nissan transmission. You need GL4 fluid. Most fluid you buy at autoparts stores is GL5.

I recommend a mixture of 2 quarts Redline MTL (70W-80) and 2 quarts Redline MT-90 (75W-90), as Nissan calls for 75W-85 oil.

Jack up car and place on jackstands.

You will see 1 drain plug on the bottom of the transmission, and 1 fill plug on the passenger side. Both use a 10mm Hex Socket.

Slide the oil drain container directly under the drain plug and remove the drain plug. Wear gloves, as it pours out very fast.

Remove the fill plug and allow the contents to drain for awhile.

While waiting for the fluid to drain, prepare the new fluid for insertion. Get the fluid suction gun ready, and open all the fluid bottles.

Check that the fluid is fully drained. Replace the drain plug and torque it down.

Use a hand-held pump to pump new fluid from the bottles into the trans.These can be bought for around $10 at any autoparts store, and save a TON of hassle.

Once you have finished there may be some overflow dripping out of the fill hole.

Insert the fill plug and torque down per the manual.
[post_title] => 350Z and G35 manual transmission fluid change [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => g35-350z-6mt-fluid-change [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:23:57 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:23:57 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [89] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1354 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => As some of you know I was working for a long time on putting some HID's in my car. Of course....I couldn't do it the easy way by getting a plug and play kit off ebay. It just wouldn't be as fun without using power tools. Well I talked to my friend who happens to work at Sylvania. We got the top of the line projectors, which happen to be the same bi-functions they put in the 2005 Vipers, and parked my car for a couple weeks. I somehow had to get more room behind each of my headlights for the projectors. The battery had to go to the trunk and I either had to design or buy a cold air intake for the Q45. Luckily I got in touch with Terry who had already designed the intake and he was able to finish one quickly so I could get my project moving. This first picture is of the car with the headlights, battery and air box out. This next picture is of me drilling the hole in order to put the tube down for my CAI. My air filter is now sitting directly behind my running light on the left. By the way....BIG power difference with the intake. In this next picture we are actually baking the headlamps to a temperature of 250 degrees for about 5 or 10 minutes. The allows the hot melt used to seal the lenses on to melt just enough for us to peel them off without damaging anything. The picture directly after that is of the headlamp with the lens off, prior to any modifications. Finally it was time to start cutting. It just so happened that the hole previously used to put a cup over and seal up the old bulbs was the perfect size for our hole saw. It gave us a dead center hole with perfect placement and a guide for the saw. It also helped in aiming the light when we glued it in. The next picture is of the headlamp with the hole cut in it and also a projector which we used to help us with some of the extra cutting we did. That is not one of the bi-function projectors and it has not been finished like mine are. The next picture is of the projector placed in its final resting point in the housing. We used epoxy to glue it in place. Now its time to put the lens back on.Its a little trickier than taking it off. We used a heat gun to melt all of the hot melt and then used black silicone to insure that it was going to seal. Now the projectors needed to be sealed from large amounts of water getting inside. The only way we could think to seal it on this car, was by cutting a football in half and using the inner bladder to cup over it. Questions, comments, or just want to talk about your Q45? Check out the Infiniti Q45 Forum!
[post_title] => Infiniti Q45 HID Projector Installation [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => infiniti-q45-hid-projector-installation [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2012-12-13 21:39:41 [post_modified_gmt] => 2012-12-14 04:39:41 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [90] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1355 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => ***from 350zclub writeup***

Intro: The 350Z and G35 6MT both come with nice short-throw shifters from the factory, right? No ones really ‘complains’ about the throw on them, or the feel. Nissan did a great job! So why, oh why, would we want to go and muck it all up? Because we’re gear heads damn it! We can’t leave anything well enough alone! Got to make it bigger, better, faster, lighter, stronger, etc…what the hell is wrong with us?!?! Who knows, but I bet we’d all modify a Mclaren F1 if given the chance and funding. So, like many others, I decided I wanted to shorten the shift in my 350Z because, well… I wanted to. Thusly, without further diatribe:

- One important note: Please read the instructions that were included with your shifter before beginning the install, twice. I seriously recommend this.

Step one: Buy the shifter (obviously!), and then size it up. The box looks like this:

Step two: Removal of stock shift knob

Look at your stock shifter. It comes off by unscrewing it (rotate it counter-clockwise)…good luck doing this by hand. After much deliberation and grunting we decided to take the installation instructions advice and get a rag and some channel locks to take that thing off. (Someone in Japan has strong hands to get that knob on there!). I seriously suggest double wrapping the rag, and having a second pair of hands (THANKS CHADD!) to help with keeping the rag tout around the shift knob while you reposition the channel locks during this process.

Step Three: Dismantling the interior

Ok, with the knob off, reach under the shift boot and pull back and upward to disengage the pins holding the interior panel/ console on. It should pop right out, without much fuss at all.

Step Three pt 2: Remove the clip/wiring harness going to the A/C controls

A small screwdriver is nice to have to push the retaining clip back so it pops out. DO NOT FORCE I! Also, of particular note, this is a ribbon cable. Anyone who knows computers knows that you must not pull on these, or they break easily. Be careful.

Step Four: Removing shifter coverings

OK, so you got the panel off and you see a fuzzy foam thing. That comes right off. See below:

Once removed you’ll see the stock secondary shift boot and retaining plate:

There are four bolts holding the shift boot onto the transmission tunnel. These are easily removed with a 10mm socket, ratchet and 6” extension.

Now, with that removed you should see a second boot covering the shifter assembly. That just pops off. That will reveal the triangular plants holding your shifter in.

Step Five: Removing stock shifter assembly

Now you can see the stock retaining plate. Pay particular note to where the reverse lockout in faces! (For those who don’t…it goes toward the passenger side!) The bolts are 10mm. Very simple to remove. Again, ratchet, extension and a 10mm socket, should be easy. Be sure to keep the top shifter plate (triangle thing with 3 bolts in it).

Step Six: Removal of the single 12mm bolt holding the linkage to the shifter

First, Jack up the car (you can do the entire car if you like, but we only needed to lift up the one side to get access to it. First off, the pics didn’t come out for this part (sorry!), but you’ll see another boot covering the linkage, remove that (it slips off). There’s a single 12mm bolt holding the shifter in at this point, you can see it above the composite driveshaft (refer to the install manual for this). A stubby ratchet and 12mm socket are all you need. Once it comes loose, the shifter will pop up about 2” in the air, because of the spring underneath it that you can’t see at this point. Don’t worry, that’s normal. Just get back out from under the car and remove everything (including the spring).

Side by side comparison of the two units:

Step Seven: Notching the shifter housing -

Ok, now look at the shifter casing:

Now, get a nice file. The top left section (in relation to sitting in the drivers seat) needs to get about 1/8” taken off from the middle point upward. See below for the after. According to B&M, this allows for engagement of reverse, probably important to do. Of note, since the shifter is isolated from the transmission, you don’t have to worry about the shavings getting into your transmission and causing issues:

Now, clean all that stuff out as best you can. A rag and some simple green works great. After it’s been cleaned, take the small tube of lube they give you and lube the crud out of the cavity (Whoa! Sounds dirty… but not really) Be sure to lube the inner sections of the shift linkage too!

Step Eight: Installing the new B&M unit

Ok, now that everything is lubed all nice; assemble the B&M shifter per the instructions. It’s quite simple. Be sure to press the O-ring into the recess on the shifter. Then drop the shifter in, being sure to put the spring in first! I recommend hand-tightening the Allen-head bolts on to ensure it doesn’t move around.

Step Nine: Attaching the shift linkage

Ok, now slide your butt up under the car again. Reinstall the 12mm bolt that you removed previously in step six. This should be pretty easy. Make sure you torque it down decently. Then pull the shift linkage boot back up over the assembly. There’s a small groove in the base of the shifter casing that it sits on, this can be a pain in the butt. I found it easiest to put the front (in reference to the car) on first, and then use the little “dog ears” on the boot to pull it up over the sides and back.

Step Ten: Getting close to finishing

You can now lower the car back down. OK, the B&M install manual is very vague about this, but you DO have to put the stock triangular plate back onto the unit. SO unscrew the 3 Allen-head bolts you hand threaded previously, and put the old triangular plate back on.

Now, as per the B&M manual, make sure to adjust that top plate so you can get into every gear. As far as positioning it goes, we found it best to stick it into 5th gear, and set the plate touching the reverse lockout pin and tighten it down. This will keep you from overshooting 5th gear (which you can do if you move the plate too far to the passenger side). Once you can confirm you get full engagement, and can’t accidentally engage reverse, tighten all the bolts down nice and tight.

Step Eleven: Reinstallation

Ok, reinstall the smaller triangle shift boot nice and snug.

Continue by reinstalling the larger shift boot, and tighten down the four 10mm bolts going across from each other to ensure proper torque.

Ok, now put the little fuzzy cover back on!

Finally, plug the harness back into the console piece, and reinstall but sliding the tabs at the front of it underneath the notches in the dash, and press it back into place. Reinstall the stock shift knob (without the little brass-colored collar!), and you’re done! Enjoy your new, even shorter-shifting Z or G35!

[post_title] => 350z and G35 B&M Short Shifter Install [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 350z-g35-short-shifter-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:45:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 03:45:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [91] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1356 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => What you'll need (more or less - it's what I've found works the best for me after 7 years of car detailing.) Washing Dawn - Dishwashing Detergent Meguiar's - Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo Car Wash Mitt Meguiar's - Hot Rims Wheel Cleaner Wheel Cleaning Brush Drying California Dry Blade Meguiar's - Ultimate Chamois Waxing Mother's - Clay Bar and Detailing Spray Microfiber Applicator Pads (6) Microfiber or Terry towels\rags (8-10) Meguiar's - Deep Crystal System Paint Clealer (Step 1) Meguiar's - NXT Tech Wax Meguiar's - Deep Crystal System Polish (Step 2) Meguiar's - Deep Crystal System Caranuba Wax (Step 3) Dressing\Detailing Meguiar's - Gold Class Endurance Tire Gel Meguar's - Gold Class Leather Cleaner\Conditioner Glass Cleaner, aerosol Rain-X All told, that should set you back about $125 or so. Try to do all this with the car cool, in the shade. Wash 1. Begin by thoroughly washing down the exterior with Dawn dishwashing detergent and a clean, soft wash mitt. Dawn does the best job of removing any old wax, along with gently cleaning the paint. Dawn also has the nasty habit of drying out plastic parts and trim, so don't use it often. Dry. Clay Bar 2. Spray a small area (about a square foot) with the Mother's Detailing Spray, and gently rub the Clay Bar over that area. Repeat with the entire exterior, paying especially close attention to the hood, roof, and trunk of the car - these receive the most contaminants of any area of the car's paint. After every two feet, knead the clay bar, turning it over on itself to keep from rubbing with the same area. Paint Cleaner 3. Apply the Paint Cleaner to a small section at a time - do NOT allow to dry, wipe off immediately with a clean towel. Second Wash 4. Wash the car again, to remove all the gunk from the clay bar process. Clean the wheels with the wheel cleaner, making sure not to leave the cleaner on the wheels for longer than about half a minute - otherwise it may eat through the wheel coating. Dry. NXT Wax 5. Apply the NXT wax to a small area at a time, allowing it to dry to a haze before buffing it out. Crystal Polish 6. Apply the Deep Crystal Polish to a small area at a time, do not allow to dry, wipe off immediately with a clean towel. Caranuba Wax 7. Apply one or two coats of the Caranuba Wax, allowing it to dry to a haze, then wipe off with a clean towel. (Caranuba Wax is what causes the oh-so sexy beading of water) Tires 8. Apply the tire gel, waiting at least 10 minutes for it to set before applying another coat. Dressing\Detailing 9. Thoroughly clean the interior and exterior of the windows and windshield (I usually use several clean, white terry rags along with a good, aerosol window cleaner - DON'T use generic, it'll be cloudy) Rain-X should be applied to a cool window surface, let dry to a haze, then remove by sprinkling the surface with water and drying it off. All in all, a good, thorough detailing should take you about 7 or 8 hours. I do this once a year, before winter. I've tried Zaino, but was just never as happy with the shine as what I got with the Meguiar's products - I'm happier applying a new coat of wax every six months if it looks better, and I think it does. [post_title] => Detailing your car's exterior [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => detailing-exterior [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:04:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:04:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [92] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1357 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => -Verify that diagnostic mode selector is turned fully counterclockwise. -Turn ignition switch ON. -Make sure inspection lamps stay on. (Bulb check.) -Ture diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise. -Make sure inspection lamps display code 23 and 31. -Depress accelerator pedal and release. -Make sure inspection lamps display code 31. -Start engine, apply brakes and shift into "D" position. -Make sure inspection lamps display code 31. -Turn a load switch OFF-ON-OFF. (A/C switch, Headlight switch etc.) -Shift into "P". -Make sure inspection lamps display code 44. Any other code is a DTC. [post_title] => 1985-1988 Nissan Common OBD-I Codes [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-obd-i-codes [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-02-19 00:01:40 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-02-19 07:01:40 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [93] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1358 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => -Access the ECU and position it for observing the diodes. -If the engine does not run, turn the key on and proceed to step #4. -Start the engine and warm it to operating temperature then idle. -Turn the diagnostic mode selector on the ECU fully clockwise until both diodes flash 3 times then turn the selector fully counterclockwise. The ECCS system is now in mode 3. [post_title] => 1989-1994 Nissan Common OBD-I codes [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 1989-1994-nissan-obd-i-codes [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-02-19 00:02:34 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-02-19 07:02:34 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [94] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1359 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Overview A 240sx 5-speed swap is arguably the most worthwhile modification you can make to your auto 240sx, and should also be the first if you plan on anything other than daily commuting. Difficulty: **** Time: 8-12 hours Cost: $200-$500 Tools: - FSM - Torque wrench - Socket set - Floor jack - Fluid catch pans and spill mats - Phillips head driver Materials: - 5-speed transmission - 5-speed crossmember - 5-speed driveshaft - Flywheel and MT bolts (marked "MT") - Clutch and pressure plate - Release bearing - Master and slave cylinders - Hardlines and rubber line from master to slave cyl. - Clutch pedal - Brake pedal (optional) - Boots and brackets for shifter assembly - Lower wire harness Procedure: 1. Remove the finisher plate and center console. 2. Drain the ATF fluid. This will reduce the mess you make considerably. 3. Disconnect the driveshaft at the differential by removing the 4x 14mm bolts and drop the end. Remove the carrier bearing as well. 4. Remove the ATF cooling lines. Theres one on each side feeding from your radiator, they connect at the bottom. 5. Support the rear of the transmission and remove the 4x 17mm bolts for the crossmember. Remove the cotter pin on the linkage and then the shifter. Unscrew the shift lever and remove the metal plate underneath. 6. Lower the rear of the transmission to gain access to the bellhousing bolts. 7. Remove the starter. (2x 14mm bolts) 8. Remove the remaining bellhousing bolts and the dust cover to gain access to the torque converter bolt. At this time, you should be able to slide the transmission back out of the way if you have it supported by a jack. 9. Remove the 6x 19mm flywheel bolts. 10. Remove the a/t adapter bearing, which extends past the end of the crankshaft. This will be difficult. 11. Install the pilot bearing. 12. Install the manual adapter plate to the bellhousing. 13. Install the flywheel and torque the bolts per the FSM. 14. Using the clutch alignment tool, install the clutch to the flywheel, then install the pressure plate. Remove the alignment tool. Drive the release bearing off the retainer and install the new bearing. Reinstall the lever arm and springs. 15a. Disconnect the brake lines from the MC so you can work the brake booster back a little to get the pedal out. Worm your way up under your dash and remove the green box up where the clutch pedal should be. That's the shift lock control unit. Just uplug it for now. Now, remove the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the brake MC fork. Best way is to rotate it till the loop faces down, and take a curved instrument like a pick and pull it out. Now, you can undo the four bolts on the firewall and then the one bolt at the top of the brake pedal bracket. Disconnect the two plugs and worm the pedal out. Now, take your new shiny (or rusty depending on where you got your pedal) brake pedal and put it up on the four studs of the brake booster. Thread the nuts back on, put the top bolt back in, tighten the nuts down, and then finally tighten the top nut down. Reinstall the fork pin and it's cotter pin. Fun. 15b. Cut the brake pedal in half to accomodate the clutch pedal. 16. Pull back the carpet, find the rubber mat and remove the cutout for the master cylinder to go through.There will be no hole through the metal, you will see the mounting locations from inside the car only (this looks like they just used a different firewall for the outside with no holes on the outside panel.Drill two holes for the studs, then drill a hole right in the center for the master cylinder to guide a hole saw. Measure your master cylinder for the correct size. Mount the master cylinder to the pedal assembly. 17. Metal line from master cylinder across the engine bay along the top of the fire wall and down with the rest of the brake lines down to the bleeder tube assembly mounted to the inside of the passenger side "frame rail".Install the bracket for the rubber line which goes from the metal line to the slave cylinder. 18. Remove the shifter from the transmission - Remove rubber boot, there is a snap ring that holds the shifter in place.Make sure all sensors are installed in the transmission at this point. Speed Sensor, Rotation sensor, Reverse light switch, Neutral position switch, 5th gear sensor. Jack the front of the motor up to tip it on an angle. I found it easiest to have two people on this part, one in the front and one on the tail shaft. Lift the transmission up and turn it so the bump in the bellhousing for the starter is pointing towards the ground. Get the input shaft lined up and slide the transmission in. Rotate the transmission into position and fasten one bolt to hold it. Support the tailshaft. Put in the rest of the bolts and nuts which mount the transmission.Hook up the slave cylinder. 19. Bleed the lines. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir, it drops fast when bleeding the clutch lines. Bleed the slave cylinder first then the bleeder lines. 20. Slide the front half of the driveshaft on the output shaft of the transmission. Bolt up the center coupling to the body 2-17mm.Bolt up the 4 bolts that secure the drive shaft to the differential. Make sure the yellow line on the driveshaft aligns with the yellow line on the differential. Install the body floor pan brace.Put in the correct amount of 75W-90 GL through the shifter hole (2.5L I believe).Install the shifter (Snap ring), rubber boot, upper rubber boot & plate.Install console, and finisher plate with the upper leather shift boot. Install shift knob. 21. Now, to make your reverse lights work, your top work (convertible), and to get the car to start. Find the passenger side fuse box. If you look at it, it will have 4 plugs hanging off of it. 3 large plugs, and a small 2 wire plug (it's not visible in the picture except by the two wires connected by the yellow splice). The small 2 wire plug is the park neutral switch. To make the car start, you'll have to jumper those. The easiest way is to cannibalize the plug off the AT tranny harness. Then you can just connect the two wires together with a splice and plug it back into the chassis plug. Next is to make your park and reverse lights work. The middle plug of the three larger plugs is called the inhibitor switch. (Back of the inhibitor switch) The way the wiring of this plug works is like so: the green/blue wire is a constant voltage wire, and all the other wires run to gear sensors (park, neutral, reverse, 1st, etc). Wire colors needed for operation: Green/blue to complete the circuit Brown/yellow for park Green/white for reverse If you look at how I've done my wiring, I have directly connected the brown/yellow and green/blue wires. This causes the car to believe it's in Park at all times, allowing the top to function. Then I spliced wiring into the green/blue line (that is what the blue box is for. It allows a wire to tap into another wire without having to cut it or solder it). The new wire was ran to one of the reverse plug wires. Then I ran a wire from the green/white wire. These wires were ran to the reverse sensor. When the shifter is put in reverse, the sensor will complete the circuit and turn the reverse lights on. ***NOTE: If you disconnected your brake lines to install the new brake pedal, bleed the lines!*** [post_title] => 240sx automatic transmission to 5-speed swap [post_excerpt] => The 240sx 5-speed manual transmission swap is outlined in step-by-step detail in this article. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => automatic-transmission-manual-swap [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:04:56 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:04:56 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [95] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1360 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => taken from dumbengineer.com Removed 8 case screws, opened unit (clamshell), and mounted on plexiglass using original screws. Using elastic, and holes in the plexiglass, mounted unit to visor so that I can see it with my visor down. Using custom built blocks of wood, I lowered the visor by about an inch so the GPS could fit nicely out of the way when the visor is up. The tension on the visor clips is enough to hold the weight of the GPS. I borrowed power from the unit that supplies power to the compass/reading lamps, and I mounted a 1" speaker pointed right at me. All in all, this setup works quite well - I'm surprised garmin doesn't sell a unit like this. It's much more hidden and easier to mount than the big bulky unit they sell. It's loud enough to hear, though if the stereo is blasting I might only hear the alert tone and have to get the GPS to repeat the directions. With the visor all the way against the windshield, I can read the screen adequately and see the road. If I need to see the map better, I can pull the visor so it's vertical - I can still see the road like this, but less, so I try to avoid it while moving. The reception is ok in suburban areas, and on the highway I can even leave the GPS flipped up and just listen to it. I have been considering adding an extension to the current antenna, either with just a BNC extension cable, or making my own antenna which would just be a short wire on the windshield. I do lose reception in the city. After building this, I realized I had no way to get the memory card in/out of the unit, so I cracked the plexiglass down the middle allowing it to flex. I used packing tape to keep it together and act as a hinge. It works pretty well, though I feel that I should re-construct this at some point. I attached ends to the original power cable so that I can easily take the GPS out of my car and use it in another car. I have also modified the power connector to accept input on the serial line so that if I have another GPS in the car that has a better view of the sky, the Garmin will take data from the external GPS. This is for my potential vehicle tracking project, which will use a separate GPS. [post_title] => Nissan Frontier Garmin GPS Installation [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-frontier-garmin-gps-installation [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:45:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 03:45:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [96] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1361 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => How to disable the automatic engagement of the A/C during defrost. By:OffroadX I don't know about anyone else, but there are times I want fresh air flowing out of the defroster vents without having the darn A/C kicking in. I got around to figuring it out today. Items needed: Medium size phillips-head screwdriver. Very tiny phillips-head or flathead screwdriver, about eyeglass size. 1. Release (not remove) the gray plastic trim below the steering wheel, there are 2 screws at the bottom corners. You just need to get it loose so that you can push it down about 2 inches at the top around the steering column. 2. Remove the dash surround. There are 2 screws above the radio, and another two on the underside of the top of the gauge well. The smooth piece the second two screws go through comes out with it, there are 2 screws at the bottom edge of it as well, behind the gray trim piece you should have released in step 1. It will take a little tugging, but it will all come off cleanly. Disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses for the power mirrors, hazard lights, and rear defroster before you go yanking the thing completely off though! 3. Now you will see the white housing for the A/C controls secured by 4 screws. Remove the 4 screws (don't let 'em fall in the dash) and then push the left-hand side of the housing back so that you can slide it to the left. You may need to set your fan switch so that it is vertical to get the most freedom of motion. 4. Now that you have the housing as far to the left as you can, pull the right-hand side of it out a bit. The wiring harnesses and cables will prevent it from coming more than an inch or so out, but that's all you need. Notice on the upper right-hand side in back there is a small micro switch with about half a dozen small wires running to it. It is held in place from below by one tiny phillips-head screw about an inch long. You can see the tip of it on the top of the housing... 5. Remove the tiny screw from the bottom of the switch, taking _extreme_ care not to let it fall into the stereo below. Put something down there to catch it if you like, I folded a piece of paper into a pocket of sorts and slid it in below. 6. Move the switch to the top of the white housing, and screw it right back into the same hole from above, making sure that the metal lever is facing to the right or even a bit towards the front. 7. Replace the white control housing, making sure the switch isn't in a position that vibration may cause the switch to engage. 8. Replace the dash trim. 9. Reattach the lower dash panel under the steering column. 10. Enjoy complete control over your HVAC system! [post_title] => Nissan Frontier and Xterra Disable Auto A/C Defrost Function [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-frontier-and-xterra-disable-auto-a-c-defrost-function [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:05:15 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:05:15 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [97] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1362 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => from nissan offroad I have provided this How-To because the chrome plating on the Frontiers grille is notorious for bubbling and peeling. Many people also replace their front bumpers and wish to paint their grille to match. Grille Removal 1. Open your hood and undo the four clips that secure the top of the grille to the hood latch cross member. To release these clips insert a flat head screwdriver into the slot on each clip and turn counter clockwise. You will also have to pull outwards on the grille while releasing these clips. 2. Loosen the front turn signals by removing the screw located directly above the lens. You don't have to completely remove the lenses; you only need enough room for the grille to be able to slide past the lenses. 3. The 3 clips that hold on the bottom of the grille are designed differently than the clips on top. The bottom clips are a bit tougher to get off. One at a time place your hands as close to each clip as possible and pull outwards. It takes a good deal of force to get them loose and when they come out it sounds like you broke something. You can’t really see how the clips operate when the grille is on so check out the pictures in figure 2 and figure 3 to get a better idea of what you are working with. 4. Remove the Nissan Emblem from the center of the Grille by gently prying upwards around the edge with a small flathead screwdriver.It should come off fairly easy since it is only held on with double-sided tape. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Painting the Grille 1.Prepared the grille for painting by spraying it with WD-40 and scrubbing it with an abrasive pad. You can use whatever you like to remove the bugs and tar but I have found that WD-40 works better than Bug and Tar remover. 2. Wash the grille with soap and water to remove the WD-40 residue. 3. Scuff the entire surface of the grille (give the chrome extra attention) with a scotch-brite pad or fine grit sandpaper. I purchased a scotch-brite pad/sponge at my local grocery store. 4. Wash the grille again with soap and water. 5. Rub the grille down with an alcohol soaked lint free cloth. Once the alcohol has evaporated you are ready to paint. 6. Be careful not to touch the surface of the grille with your hands. Oil from your hands will cause the paint to be repelled from the area that was touched. 7. Choose a high quality paint such as Rustoleum and most importantly…Take Your Time! If you have completely covered all of the chrome with paint on the first coat then you are going way too fast. I applied 8 coats of paint over a two-day period. The grille was completely covered with paint by the sixth coat. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Grille Re-installation 1.Reinstall the grille by removing the black clips from the hood latch cross member and inserting them into the grille. 2. Once the clips are installed in the grille simply snap the grille back into place. 3. Reinstall the turn signal lenses. 4. Reinstall the emblem using automotive double-sided tape or a weather resistant glue. [post_title] => Nissan Frontier Grille Removal and Painting [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-frontier-grille-painting [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:05:26 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:05:26 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [98] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1363 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => from Nissan Offroad Installers Notes This installation was performed by a certified mechanic and the owner of the vehicle pictured. At no point do we recommend altering or otherwise changing the geometry of the rear bumper system. If you feel you are unable to safely install this piece of equipment, please see a certified Vehicle Technician or your Local Nissan Dealership for Installation. Installing a hitch on your Nissan Frontier is an easy process, assuming you use the proper hitch and tools and you have a friend to help. Hitches are typically designed for specific makes and models of vehicles (in some cases, for specific trims on the same model). When ordering a hitch, be sure to request the hitch specific to the vehicle you own. *For information on Towing safety and choosing the proper hitch, CLICK HERE* The Nissan Frontier is rated for a "Class 3" hitch. The hitch we have chosen to install, conforms to the Class 3 specifications and is specifically designed for the 2001 Nissan frontier pickup. Drawtite Hitch Part Number: 75106 Retail: $204 Total Install Time: 30 minutes BEGINNING THE INSTALL First, if you have recently take your truck off-road, or haven't washed the truck in a while, I recommend taking a few moments and washing the underside of the truck and letting it dry. This will keep you much cleaner during this process. Once the truck is dry, move it onto a FLAT AND LEVEL surface. Set the parking brake and chock the wheels of the vehicle for safety. We will be removing and installing very heavy objects, so having an extra set of hands is ideal. The first step is to loosen the 6 bolts (three on each side) that hold the bumper in place. The bumper won't fall freely, The three bolts that are holding it in place on each side are all connected via a bracket. This assembly must be slid part way out of the frame in order to release the bumper. (The bracket can be seen in the top left photo) Once the Bumper has been removed, set it aside and concentrate on installing the Hitch itself. The hitch comes with several pieces of mounting hardware that go in a VERY specific order. Care should be taken that you get the right hardpoints in the right holes. Slipping the hard points and bolts into the square frame member can be tricky, take care not to push them so far into the frame that you can't retrieve for re-alignment if you need to! (we used a long flat head screw driver to push them into place) be sure the bolts are seated properly in the square holes on the hard points. Once they are installed, they will look like this (note the size differences in the hard points. Smallest to the BACK) Once you have them seated in place, replace the bumper. It is important to replace the Bumper BEFORE you install the hitch for ease of installation (we learned this the hard way) Note: the installation bolts for the hitch hanging loose while the bumper is tightened back into place with an impact wrench. Be sure to torque the bumper bolts down to the proper specifications. The bumper is a SAFETY DEVICE on the truck and great care should be taken to ensure it is installed correctly and all bolts are tightened to OEM Specifications. Once it is in place and tight, place the hitch on your stomach and slide under the truck, orientating the hitch in the position it is to be installed. Have your friend hold one side of the hitch up while you hold the other side up. Align the bolts and hand tighten the nuts in the hitch. Now, move to the other side, and relieve your friend. Hand tighten these bolts. The hitch should now be hanging from the bolts on either side. Using your impact wrench (or wrench) tighten the bolts according to manufacturer's specs. This hitch is gong to be, potentially carrying a LOT of weight, make sure you get the bolts properly tightened. Your hitch should now be installed and you should be ready to wire the lights! (which will be the second part of the install) DISCLAIMER: DIY AT YOUR OWN RISK. NICO CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE DURING OR AFTER YOUR INSTALLATION. [post_title] => Nissan Frontier Drawtite Hitch Install [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-frontier-drawtite-hitch-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:45:56 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 03:45:56 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [99] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1364 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This past weekend (4/12/03) I completed installation of an electric lock on the tailgate of my 2002 Frontier. My friend CarlP was of enormous help in the planning and completion of this. It already had locks, but they were not electric. It was extremely straightforward and can be done with not more than a screw driver, a wrench, and pliers. All in all it took under 3 hours and cost less than $10. 1. Bought door lock actuator kit 742 from bulldog security, $8. This actuator has 2 wires - when you put +12 on one and ground the other it moves in one direction. Reverse the wires, it moves in the other direction. 2. Tapped into the wires that correspond to the +12/ground lock/unlock signals just BEFORE they enter the back left door (wiring harness in the post). I forgot the colors, but they are actually pretty easy to find if you have a friend to press the lock/unlock and you have a sharp +12/ground probe to jab through the insulation of the wires in the harness - I think they might be the front most 2 wires. I then ran this wire neatly out the back left door and under the bed to the tailgate. I haven't yet found a nice way to get wires out of the rear of the cab near the bottom, so any input to this would be appreciated. 3. Removed plastic bedliner on tailgate - the round things on the end DO come out, but it's a pain... just get a screw driver between the round thing and the plastic tab from the liner, then pry/tap until it's out. Bending the tab is ok, so you only need to remove one of them and then just bend the liner so it's sticking straight up from one side of the tailgate. The screws in the center also hold the access plate to the door opening/locking mechanism. 4. Looking directly inside the access panel, you can see the entire mechanism. There are 2 main bolts (RED ARROWS, below) sticking up on either side. The door actuator kit comes with some slotted piece of metal - I had to use a drill to make holes slightly bigger than the slots. The plate was mounted as far left as it could go. Also, the plate to mount the actuator needed to have a twists in it (GREEN ARROWS, below) so that the nuts could come down flat and the rest of the plate would avoid piece of the door handle mechanism 5. The actuator (PURPLE ARROW) was mounted to the left, on the included plate. The rod from the actuator was bent about 35 degrees (RED DASHED LINE) such that it comes under the door opening mechanism, towards the piece that moves when you turn the key. 6. The piece that moves when you turn the key has a nice peg sticking up from it. What I did was just to bend a loop in the actuator rod so that it fits tightly around the peg (YELLOW ARROW). The throw of the actuator is a little short, so you have to put the bend in exactly the right spot. When in the "unlocked" mode, the actuator will actually cause the handle to be about 95% engaged - more than enough to transfer the force of the handle to the unlatching mechanism. The blue outlined area is the part that no longer engages because of the actuator, but as you can see, the green outline area is more than enough. When the door is "locked," the piece with the peg (which is attached to the green box area) slides to the right, so that the green box is entirely clear of the unlatching mechanism. Thus, you can pull the handle as much as you want and it won't unlatch the door. So, now my tailgate unlocks whenever the back left door does. This is very useful to me as I have a tonneau cover and like to store stuff in the bed that I might want to access while the truck is running. If somebody was very motivated, they could find my wires and apply +12/ground to the right ones and unlock all the doors in my truck, but if they were that motivated they could also smash my windows... then they'd just have to wrestle with the ignition disabler on my remote starter. [post_title] => Nissan Frontier Electric Tailgate Lock Install [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-frontier-electric-tailgate-lock-install [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:27:14 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:27:14 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [100] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1365 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This describes the removal and installation of the rear O2 sensor behind the catalytic converter for 95-99(Federal Emissions) Maxima/I30s. Items Needed: PB Blaster (or other rust penetrant) 22mm Wrench Flat Head Screwdriver Electrical Tape Jack and Stands Work Light First you will need to remove the bad O2 sensor. Use generous amounts (frequently) of the rust penetrant on the sensor where it goes into the exhaust pipe (bung). While allowing the the penetrant to work, follow the wire from the back of the sensor to where it goes into the floor panel. Use a screw driver to pry the large rubber grommet from the floor pan. Once the grommet is loose, disconnect the plug that attaches the sensor to the harness. Now use the 22mm wrench to remove the bad sensor from the bung. Continue using the penetrant as needed. This is the hardest part of the process (especially if you live in a snow state). This is what you should be looking at once the bad sensor is removed. Screw the new sensor into the bung and measure where the grommet will be positioned. Mark this position with a piece of electrical tape, and remove the new sensor from the bung. Wrap the electrical tape around the wire cover on both sides of where it passes through the grommet. I added tape where the wire come out of the rear of the sensor. Apply the anti-seize that comes with the new sensor to the threads; use plenty and coat all the threads, you'll be glad if you have to do this again. Screw the new sensor into the bung and tighten with the wrench. Attach the sensor clip to the harness. Push the grommet back into the floor panel until you feel/hear the plastic backing catch, and the grommet is secured. [post_title] => Removing and Installing the Rear O2 sensor on a Nissan Maxima/Infiniti I30 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-i30-how-to-remove-install-rear-o2-sensor [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:06:10 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:06:10 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [101] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1366 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => In the summer of 1988, a team of designers in La Jolla, California, under the direction Keiichi Shinohara, started work on a “personal” luxury sedan for Infiniti. The Nissan Design International team focused on balance and excellence in all categories – a complete package - not just excelling in a single area. A shape for this new vehicle was drawn – an ellipse with a gracefully balanced arch running through it. It was nontraditional, and very unique. Through four years of sketches, concepts, and finally scale models… the ellipse shape remained. What emerged in showrooms in March of 1992 was a stunningly beautiful vehicle. An aggressive front end, with an ovoid grill and flush projector beam headlights, flowed into a coupe-like roofline that culminated with a smooth sloping decklid and full-width taillights. The 1993 Infiniti J30 was striking from any angle. Under the DURASTEEL® body panels (steel with 50% more corrosion-resistant plating thickness), the interior of the J30 was every bit as impressive. Designed at the Nissan Technical Center in Atsugi-City, Japan, the standard leather-appointed interior was highlighted with subtle wood accents. Dual power seats, inclusive power accessories and keyless entry completed the package. The 200-watt Bose Audio System, with in-dash CD, was also standard on all J30’s. Occupant protection was important to the design teams. Standard safety features included driver and passenger air bags (later upgraded to include side air bags), pre-tensioning seat belts, and four-wheel disc brakes with anti-lock control. A 210-horsepower engine powered all J30’s. Based on the 3.0-liter DOHC 24-valve aluminum alloy V-6 used in the Nissan 300ZX, the version under the hood of the J30 was further refined. The intake and exhaust manifolds were modified while Nissan’s SOFIS (Sophisticated Optimized Fuel Injection System) was added for improved drivability, cleaner emissions, and reduced noise and vibration. The J30 engine utilized variable valve timing, and a direct ignition system with platinum spark plugs for reduced maintenance. The only available transmission was an electronically controlled four-speed overdrive with a lock-up torque converter. A DUET-EA interactive transmission control system helped ensure smooth gear changes and eliminate shift shock by retarding engine power between shifts. The rear-wheel-drive J30 featured an advanced four-wheel independent suspension highlighted by a precision tuned front strut-type and multi-link rear. Front and rear stabilizer bars were standard, and they kept excellent control of the body as it rode on the standard 6.5JJ-15 cast alloy wheels wrapped in 215/60-15 tires. A high-performance viscous limited-slip differential was standard. In addition to the “base” model, a J30t (for Touring) was available. It offered of version of the Super HICAS (High Capacity Actively Controlled Steering) system found on the Q45. The system used a precise, computer-controlled hydraulic rear steering unit on the rear wheels. At high speeds, the rear wheels were steered up to one degree in the same direction as the fronts. At low speeds, the system would momentarily turn the wheels opposite the fronts (to help point the J30t into the turn) before turning them in-phase. The sporty J30t also received revised spring calibrations, new alloy wheels, and a rear spoiler. As expected, purchasing the luxury and technology found in the J30 wasn’t easy on the pocket. For most of the production years, the base price hovered just below $40,000. On a positive note, the beautiful J30 came relatively loaded in base form. Optional features on cars from Lexus and Acura were standard on the Infiniti. Leather, anti-lock brakes, dual airbags, and CD player rounded out an impressive list of standard features. Behind the wheel, the J30 is an effortless cruiser. At 3,500 pounds, acceleration with 210 horses is adequate but not neck-snapping. The ride is very controlled, and cornering is stable. Keep in mind you aren’t going to win (or even enter) an auto-x with the J30. It’s a luxury touring vehicle, not a sport sedan. Today, you’d be hard-pressed to find an example of the J30 with fewer than 75,000 miles on it. A near mint example with 100,000 clicks on the odometer will likely cost about $6,500 - less if you want to compromise condition. Of course, you can find used J30’s for much less, but don’t settle for one without consistent maintenance records as repairs can really add up once systems start to fail. Find the right car, at the right price, and you own a striking example of Infiniti luxury. [post_title] => The History of the Infiniti J30 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => j30-history-and-introduction [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-12-02 23:13:06 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-12-03 06:13:06 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [102] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1368 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => - Nissan KA24 install article. By Danny Youngs Nissans KA24 motor can be installed into the Datsun 510 in many different ways and forms. In this article I will cover every facet of installation and the different parts you can use to do this. I studied many different ways of doing the install before I actually did mine. I tried a few different ideas myself while installing the motor. I have added reference pictures from my collections through-out this article. This motor is very popular because of what it offers, and the increasing availability. Many donor cars are starting to show up in the wreckers, and there is also a large supply of KA24's becoming available from 240sx owners doing the SR20DET swap into their cars. In stock form it produces a large amount of power and impressive torque compared to the L-series motor. It would take a very carefully built L-series motor to equal the power and torque of the KA24. It has a very fair redline and will easily spin the tires in lower gears. If you are converting from the average L20b with mikuni's or built L16/L18 you will be happily surprised. In the first section I will go over the different types of KA motors. The next section will cover the installation of the motor. section 1: - The Different breeds of KA24. Pic of a 89/90 240sx KA24E using Mikunis. Pic from http://www.dimequarterly.com. Pic of Dan Gallmeister's 89/90 240sx KA24E conversion. Pic of a bone stock KA24E truck motor. Notice rear sump pan. Pic of a 91-94 240sx KA24DE, going into a 510. Submitted by Kim Woo from Fresno, CA Pic of a 91-94 240sx KA24DE conversion by Mike and Bill Kenyon of Vallejo, CA. The KA24 motor comes in two moderately different styles. First is the 12 valve, single cam KA24E engine, and second is the16 valve twin cam KA24DE engine. The blocks are essentially the same, but the cylinder heads are quite different. Both engines are EFI motors, except for some very rare exceptions to Non-U.S. spec 12 valve truck engines that were carbureted. First engine I will cover is the 240sx 12 valve. This engine is found in all 1989-1990 U.S. spec 240SX chassis. This is the most popular engine to swap into the 510 in EFI form. It has a larger more attractive two piece intake with a side draft forward facing throttle body. The upper pieces of the manifold has ECCS engraved on it, which is Nissan's EFI system for that era. You will want the 5 speed tranny version most likely. The exhaust manifold exits very rearward towards the firewall. This engine also has a girdle that connects all the main bearing caps together inside the crankcase. The oil pan is a front sump style on this engine. The block casting engulfs the entire surface where the tranny mates. The pulley and belt systems uses a modern grooved serpentine belt. These engines were cast and manufactured in Japan. section 2: - Installing the KA24 into the 510 chassis. There are many different ways that you can install this motor into your 510. The other interesting fact is that if you choose to do your brackets one way, it doesn't really dictate what pan you need to use or what tranny crossmember, or even what tranny you need to use. This enables you to work at your own pace and choose junkyard parts or fully custom parts. You can get virtually every part you need from the junkyard or wrecker. First I will cover the brackets. There are basically three different ways of doing this. The most popular way you will see is using the stock 240sx brackets. These brackets have the same placement on both the single and twin cam motor, and they will also bolt to the truck block. You can mount these onto the stock 510 rubber motor mounts. The trick is to move the rubber mounts down so the top bolt holes on the mount bolt in to the lower threaded holes on the crossmember mounting surface. This is a very good solution and you will notice that the rubber mounts only bind ever so slightly, not enough to even notice really.The motor sets at a very appropriate height this way. The second way is getting some custom brackets made for your install. The third way is using the stock truck engine brackets which make the engine set very low and the rubber mounts bind a little more than you might like. I have also seen people use a variety of different Nap-Z, L-series, and KA brackets, with different sized spacers to get the engine where they want it. You will notice the block has bolt holes to accommodate different brackets. Dan Gallmeister's 510 using stock 240sx brackets. My 510 using stock 240sx brackets. Randy Yorks 12 Valve install using custom brackets. Of course the oil pan is always an issue in any motor install. You have a few different choices in this category. The most popular route is using the front sump pan and losing the stock sway bar. You can do this by installing a reversed front crossmember. You can either cut and re-weld the center section of the crossmember in backwards, or cut out and re-weld the a-arm pivots in backwards. The crossmember will bolt in either way. This allows the engine to fall right in with the front sump pan on it. The KA truck block will also accept the front sump pan. You can either run without a sway bar, have a custom sway bar bent to fit, or use a custom 3 piece racing bar which are available. You can also break open the wallet and get a custom rear sump oil pan made. The main issue with the stock truck rear sump pan fitting is center link clearance, and ground clearance. Forget about reversing the center link, cause it will be even more in the way. You can notch the back of the truck pan to clear the center link, and it will work, but the pan also hangs low to the ground. No more speed bumps at all! People have also used a conglomeration of cut up L16 pans and KA pans to make something work. Dry sump systems are also available for the KA, but are extremely expensive and overkill for a street application. Randy York's 510 with custom oil pan, this retains the front sway bar. 16 valve KA using carbs. Notice the front sump pan and reversed crossmember. Mike Kenyon's custom Speedway Engineering front sway bar setup. Car uses a HL510 front crossmember with front sump pan. Dan Gallmeisters custom bent sway bar setup. Which transmission do you want to use? The most likely choice is the factory KA 5 speed that came with your motor. This tranny fits perfectly fine and uses many of the same bolt spacings and patterns as the ever so popular Z-speed. The KA slave cylinder works just fine with the 510 clutch master cylinder. You can even make that cut up, slotted, and spaced out tranny crossmember you have work with the KA tranny. There are a few custom crossmembers available that make it bolt right in with either a 240Z insulator or a stock 510 4 speed insulator. The driveshaft needs to be shortened, even a little bit more than for a Z gear box. The tranny tunnel will need to be cut quite a bit to fit the bulky shifter mechanism up into the tunnel. Some clearance is also needed on the sides of the tunnel with a hammer for the large bolt heads that are on either side of the transmission towards the rear. Nothing that can't be handled in a few minutes though.You can also use a normal Z 5 speed gearbox on a 12 valve motor by using a Nap-Z bellhousing from a Z20, Z22 or Z24 with a manual gearbox. This allows you to use your existing driveshaft that was shortened for a Z 5 speed conversion, and your existing cut shifter hole and mechanism assuming you already had a Z 5 speed in the car. My car using 280ZX 5-speed, Z24 bellhousing, and a Dave Carrol 5 speed crossmember. What about the radiator? You are pretty much home free in this category. Anything will work. I would tend to shy away from the smaller units such as the rabbit or even the stock two row. A stock style 3 row will cool it just fine. If you take your old grungy stock two row to the radiator shop they can construct a three row out of it and ad a upper coolant inlet on the other side. Any of the larger VW units, or the fiero radiator should work great. A lot of these radiators have the inlet on the upper drivers side which means you will have to run a crossover tube to get to the coolant outlet on the KA which is on the passenger side coming out of the intake manifold. Single cammer with EFI using a Fiero style radiator unit.
[post_title] => Installing a KA24 into a Datsun 510 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => installing-a-ka24-into-a-510 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-12-20 22:36:16 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-12-21 05:36:16 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [103] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1369 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_content] => Installing the VG 30 in a 510 By Michael Spreadbury Thinking about an engine swap? Tired of seeing L16-18-20B's every time that you open a 510 hood? Want to have a reliable, powerful 510? Consider the VG30, Nissan's 3.0 liter V6 engine. There have been many requests for an article about installing the Nissan VG30 V6 engine into a 510. I have done this conversion, and have been very pleased with the results (see photos of Michael's VG30 installation). In this multi-part article, I will review what I did to successfully install the VG30 into my 510. But first, some background information about the engine. The VG30 was introduced in 1984 in the new 300ZX. Reviewers raved about the V6's power, torque, and smoothness. In normally aspirated form, (which I installed), in stock trim makes 165hp and 175ft-lbs of torque @ 4000rpm. In turbo form, it makes 200hp and 227ft-lbs of torque at 3600rpm. Another advantage of this engine is that it is very lightweight. When it was introduced, Nissan engineers boasted that it was the lightest three liter V6 in the world. Another advantage to the VG30 is that it is a very common engine. Nissan has used the VG30 in the 200SX, 300ZX, Maxima, truck, Pathfinder, and the Quest minivan. The version of VG30 that I choose was the fuel injected 300ZX engine. I choose this engine because it creates the most horsepower in stock form, and it is quite common. The 200SX V6 is also a popular choice, but they are harder to find since they were only made for two years, 1987-1988. The front wheel drive versions could also be made to work, but would require a different intake plenum, exhaust manifold, and oil pan. I choose the VG30 because I wanted a massive power gain without relying on a turbo or higher compression. I have had several `built' L20B's, with carbs, flat top pistons, SSS heads, etc., but could never get the horsepower that I yearned for without building a very expensive engine. How much does it cost to build a 175hp L series engine these days? With early 300ZX's becoming quite common in wrecking yards, I decided to do some investigating to check prices for the whole setup. I found that the VG30 is not in very high demand as a used engine. This is true for several reasons. Most people think that the only place a 300ZX V6 can go is in another 300ZX. Unlike a L series engine from a 510, 610, 710 etc. the VG30 engine is not `swappable'. Most 300ZX owners take really good care of their vehicles, maintain the engine, and do not blow them up very often. Another advantage of using this engine is the fuel injection system. I never liked playing with carbs, setting chokes etc. With fuel injection, you get in the car in the morning, start the engine, and you get a perfect idle at 1200rpm. Once it warms up, the idle drops to 900rpm. No messing with a choke cable, burning too rich or too lean, just a perfect running car, from idle to redline. A myth about the Nissan V6 is that "its too heavy!" Lets compare some 510 vehicle weights. A stock L16, 4 speed, 2 door 510 weighs 2078lbs. A friends L20B, Z 5 speed, 2 door 510 weighs 2270 lbs. My 1970 2 door with the stock VG30 and 5 speed weighs 2210 lbs. Another reason that I choose the VG30 is that I wanted to keep Nissan power under the hood. I have heard all kinds of wonderful claims about Mazda rotaries, but I wanted to keep my Datsun a Nissan. What you get with the VG30 is is a reliable (at least 200k) engine that will produce good horsepower, (with an open exhaust, and a K&N intake, I would guess around 180hp), has great torque, require a tuneup every 30,000 miles, and gets great gas mileage. Last year I got 27mpg driving home from Mt. Shasta, better than all the other 510's in our convoy. Installing the VG30 is NOT like swapping a L18, L20B etc, into your 510. It requires some fabrication skills, money and patience. This swap is not for everybody, but it is another alternative to the L series engine. In the next article, I will describe local costs of the VG30 engine/transmission and what to pull when getting your V6 from the car. Part II Last time I talked about the advantages and disadvantages of using the VG30 V-6 engine in your 510. I will now discuss buying the engine and transmission and what other parts you will need from your donor car. Again, I used the 1984-89 VG30 from the 300ZX, and this is what I will cover, however these guidelines will work for any of the VG30 equipped vehicles. First, start calling around your local wrecking yards, or locate someone parting out a 300ZX. Get an idea of how much the engine, transmission, ECU, and other electrical components will be. The amounts will vary from yard to yard, but will give you an idea of what the local market is going for. Once you have established a general price, look at some of the donor cars. Ideally you want a car that still has the engine and transmission still in it. Check the externals on the outside of the engine, check to see if it is complete, with no major oil leaks. The VG30 is a very tight engine, and oil leaks are uncommon, so be wary of a wet engine. Also check to see if the injectors are leaking gasoline in the intake manifold. One of the few weaknesses of this engine is deteriorating injector seals at the manifold when they get older. Check to see how many miles the engine has. Again, these engines are very reliable and can go 200,000 miles without a rebuild, but obviously try to find one with low mileage. When you have found a suitable power train, and have negotiated a fair price, it is almost time to pull the engine. But before attacking the car with wrenches and wire cutters, do a little more research. Find out what year the donor car is and go visit the local Nissan dealership. Go to the service department (try to visit them at a slow time) and ask if you can see a shop manual for the year and model of your donor car. In the back of the manual there is a section that covers the wiring harnesses and the major electrical component locations, (Section EL). Politely ask if you can photocopy the pages that show the engine compartment wiring harness. The EFI system has a its own wiring harness that connects to the ECU. You will also want to copy the engine harness page as well, as you will need some of those components. Study the component locations, and take the photocopies with you when you pull the engine. Workshop manuals by HAYNES also contain this information and can usually be found at most used bookstores. The part number for a the HAYNES manual is 1173. Whenever possible, I try to pull the engine and transmission with the wrecking yard employees. Most yards around here do not mind and will sometimes give you a break in the price. I also do this so I can see how everything fits together, and to make sure that nothing gets cut or removed incorrectly. To remove the engine and transmission follow the normal steps. Bring along a cardboard box, masking tape, and a pen to mark components as you pull them out. Keep all the hardware, it is useful for reattaching components in your car and makes for a cleaner installation. Unhook the engine compartment wiring harness from the alternator, oil pressure sender, starter, etc. There is NO need to cut any wires! On the EFI harness, DO NOT disconnect the connectors from the engine. I found that it is much easier to disconnect the harness from the ECU, which is located in the kick panel on the passenger side of the car. Now, this is the ONLY time that you should cut any wires. There are 12 wires that connect to the ECU from the under the dash and the rear harness. Follow them about a foot down and cut them, this way you will have enough wire to rewire them later. Feed the EFI wiring loom through the firewall and lay in on top of the engine. These are the things that you can leave in the donor car. The cruise control unit, air conditioning components, power steering pump and lines, radiator (its too tall for the 510), drive line (we will reuse the 510 unit), and the exhaust pipe. Now that you have pulled the engine and transmission, be sure that you take these components; ECU, motor mounts, wiring harnesses, air flow meter, ignition coil, intake plumbing (before the plenum), all hardware, all relays and fusible links, (we won't use most of them but grab them anyway.) Also grab the fuel pump relay, and wiring that is located behind the quarter panel on the passenger side of the car. Next time we will clean the engine up and install it in the car! Part III Now that we have our engine and transmission home, it is time to clean and inspect it before diving into the project. Get a pad of paper to start making lists of what needs to be done. This project seems overwhelming at first, but if you make a list and do ONE project at a time, the task becomes much easier. Remove the engine from the transmission and mount the engine on a engine stand. This is an easier way to get at everything. If you do not have an engine stand, use an old tire to set the engine into to keep it upright. Clean the engine with your favorite degreaser. Be careful to keep the degreaser and water from the electrical components, as they could get damaged. Working with a clean engine and transmission is much nicer than a grimy unit. It is now time to strip some of the parts that we will either not use, or that are going to be changed. Remove the motor mounts from the engine. Remove the bracket on the right side of the engine that holds the alternator (and used to hold the A/C, PS, pumps). Also remove the exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe from the back of the engine. We are going to use different exhaust manifolds so they will clear the steering box. On the transmission, remove the crossmember, as you will need to modify the existing 510 mount. Remove all components in your 510 engine compartment. Leave the steering box and linkage, and the front crossmember. I also suggest removing the front fenders and hood, so you will not damage them during the install. It is much easier to work in a stripped engine compartment, than working around all the other components. This is also a great time to remove the battery tray and move the battery to the trunk for better weight distribution. You should also remove the existing 510 engine compartment harness. Clean the engine compartment and all components. Before installing the engine in the car, remove the front crossmember and cut off the existing motor mounts. Cut the crossmember flush so you have a wide flat surface to fabricate to. Reinstall the front crossmember. Using an engine hoist place the engine and transmission into the 510 engine compartment. Rest the oil pan on a 3/4" piece of wood on top of the crossmember to provide enough clearance. Slide the engine as far back in the engine bay as possible. This is where some of you will have to improvise. I converted my car to rack and pinion steering when I did my conversion so I did not have to mess with the steering box and linkage. You many want to remove the cross rod assembly to clear the existing oil pan. Once the engine is mounted you can mark where the steering rod will need to cross below the oil pan and be able to build a new oil pan as necessary. 300ZX oil pans are rear sump (like a stock 510) but do not have the clearance to clear the steering rod. 200SX oil pans are a rear sump and will clear the steering linkage, but a new front crossmember and sway bar will need to be constructed to clear the oil pan. This is where people who are using the 200SX VG30 are going to have an advantage, as their intake plenum does not hang as far back as the 300ZX version does so they can get their engine back an additional 2" without firewall modifications. What ever version you use, it will still sit farther back than any stock L series engine will, so handling will not be affected. Once you have the engine slid as far back as possible, note your clearances. I did a little firewall "massaging" and was able to gain an additional 1/4" without doing any cutting. You will want the intake to just clear the firewall and wiper motor. Measure both sides of the engine to ensure that it is centered in the car. The other factor that you must consider when installing the engine in you car is the bottom of the bell housing on the transmission. The overall height of the engine will be decided by the bottom of the bell housing. Sight along the bottom of the engine crossmember and make sure that the bellhousing is not lower than the front crossmember. You want the engine as low as possible, but not lower than the front crossmember. To decide the correct angle of the intake plenum, use an angle indicator on top of the intake plenum and measure the angle. On a 300ZX engine the plenum should be at about 6 degrees. Raise or lower the back of the transmission to get the correct angle. You will need to modify the hole in the transmission tunnel to clear the transmission shifter. Be sure that your brake lines are clear before cutting the transmission tunnel. Use your hand to make sure that you are not touching any of the body or transmission tunnel with the engine or transmission. Finally, carefully test fit the hood on the car to make sure that you do not have the engine mounted too high. I believe that I have about 1 1/4" of clearance. Ignore the fact that the oil pan sticks down too low, you will need to modify the existing one to raise it above the front crossmember for ground clearance. Mark the sides where the bottom should be, I believe that I took one inch out of mine. The pan should be modified to make up for the missing capacity. Once you have the engine exactly where you want it, and you have triple checked your measurements and clearances, it is time to make motor mounts. First, find an appropriate piece of metal that is about the same thickness as the original mount. The first part to building the motor mounts is to do make the plate that mounts to the block. Make that plate the same size as the original leaving enough room to mount another another plate for the sides. On the left side of the engine the clearance between the oil filter and the motor mount is tight, so be sure to leave enough room to get the oil filter on and off. Next, build the plate that the FACTORY VG30 rubber insulator will mount to the crossmember. The rubber insulators that Nissan used on the VG30 engines are liquid filled to absorb vibration and to shear in case of an accident. If your insulators are broken or are seeping a fluid replace them! The VG30 is a VERY smooth engine and does not move much, so clearances with the body can be very tight. But I HIGHLY recommend using the factory insulators. Yes they are expensive, but they are designed for this engine, and you will have a VERY sooth engine with no vibrations if you use them. The rubber insulator has threaded studs that come out each side, and a small dimple to ensure that they are installed the correct way. I recommend building a mount that the threaded stud can slide into, and can be tightend from underneath the 510 crossmember. You will need to cut a hole in the crossmember to get to the bottom stud. After the rubber insulator is mounted to the crossmember, build the plate that attaches to the top of the insulator. Again the insulator has a threaded stud that will fit through the hole in your plate with a dimple to ensure that it is seated. Be sure that your plate has enough clearance to clear the nut for when you want to attach it. Now that you have the plate for the engine and top of the motor mount made and attached, use a piece of cardboard to figure out the piece that will need to fill the gap. Take your time and make the piece fit exactly, also check that it will work the same way on each side. This is a backup to make sure that you have the engine square in the vehicle. Trace out your pattern on your metal and cut and grind until it fits. Test fit the piece on both sides to check for its fit and once you are satisfied that it will work, tack it with your welder. Be sure to do lots of small tacks to make sure that it will not come apart when you take it out for its final welding. Remove the motor mounts from each side and make gussets for both sides of the mounts for additional strength. Weld all gaps and reinstall on the engine. To build the transmission mount, use the factory 300ZX insulator rubber, and cut off just the pieces that are necessary to mount the rubber to the transmission itself. Then cut off the ears of the 510 transmission mount and attach them back in the car. Again using cardboard for patterns, fill the gaps with new steel. I used a section of large pipe (approx 4" in dia) to get the curved angle to clear the exhaust that would be alongside the transmission. Be sure that your new mount does not interfere with the speedometer mount. Part 4 Now that we have the engine and transmission mounted in the car, it is time to start the seemingly endless list of details. I will start at the front and work towards the rear for what I did on my car. Radiator: The 300ZX has its water outlets on the same side unlike most cars. I considered a VW rabbit radiator since they are designed this way, but thought that its capacity would be too small. I used a Chevy S10 3 row, crossflow, radiator with custom tanks. It keeps the engine very cool and I have not had any problems with this setup. It fits the stock 510 opening perfectly and looks OEM. I installed a temp sensor in the tank of the radiator to turn on a slim electric fan that is mounted behind the front grill, to cool it when it gets hot. The setup works perfectly. Stock fan and clutch: Remove the stock fan and clutch assembly, they are no longer needed because of the electric fan, and the water pump pulley reattaches with the old hardware. This makes for a much nicer looking engine compartment. Timing Belt: Nissan uses a rubber timing belt that MUST be changed every 60,000 miles. If this timing belt brakes, you will bend at least 2 valves and maybe all 12. Since you do not know when your belt was last changed, do it now. It is cheap insurance. I also recommend changing the tensioner at the same time. While you have it apart, change the thermostat as well. Exhaust manifolds: I used the 87-88 200X exhaust manifolds. These allow you to move the engine farther back in the engine compartment. I also highly recommend changing ALL exhaust studs out of the heads, as these seem to be a weak point of the VG30. If you change to the 200SX manifolds and are using the 300ZX plenum, also get the stainless breather tube from the 200SX that connects from the exhaust manifolds to the EGR valve. Intake Tubing: I used a K&N air filter which eliminates the factory air box and gains some horsepower. The filter that I used connects directly to the air flow meter, but there are many kits out there that use an adapter to fit over the air flow meter. I shortened the intake tubing, which is made of grey plastic,) a few inches to fit in the 510 engine compartment and it keeps for a clean factory look. Alternator: I used the turbo 300ZX alternator bracket which moves the alternator to the passenger side of the car (like a stock 510.) This eliminates the large bracket that the stock car comes with, and makes the engine compartment look much cleaner. Radiator overflow bottle: I used a Mazda 626 radiator overflow bottle which is mounted to the passenger side of the car. This bottle combines the windshield fluid bottle as well and fits the contours of the 510 inner fender perfectly. Battery tray: I removed the battery tray using a spot weld drill, to provide more room and to make the engine compartment look cleaner. I also removed the bracket that held the 510 windshield washer bottle, since it was no longer being used. Throttle Cable: The 300ZX uses a throttle cable, so I found one that was the perfect length from a 1980 200SX. Driveline: Have your stock 510 driveline shortened to fit the 300ZX transmission. The splines on the end are the same. Exhaust: There are lots of ways to go here, I used 2 inch pipe from each exhaust manifold which then join together behind the transmission using a Flowmaster collector. The rest of the exhaust is 2.5" mandrel bent tubing which goes through the modified rear crossmember and then to a Flowmaster muffler. The Flowmaster is quite loud however, I would recommend another brand, perhaps a Borla next time. It sure has a banshee wail to it at WOT though! I also installed the O2 sensor in the collector, which is farther back than stock, but seems to work fine. Oil Pan: As noted before you will need to modify as necessary. Be sure that it does not stick down lower than the front crossmember, and to make up any displacement that you remove. Remember, this is a big project, but if you take your time, and make lots of lists, it becomes one small project at a time. I am not claiming that this is the only way to do this install, but this is what worked for me. I am also at the advantage that we in Oregon do not need to have smog checks (yet). I think that my car would pass most smog inspections as it is mostly stock and is running all emission devices except the cat. Again, any questions or comments can be sent to me directly at [email protected] Michael Spreadbury [post_title] => Installing the VG30 in a Datsun 510 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => installing-the-vg-30-in-a-510 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-02-11 00:26:33 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-02-11 07:26:33 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [104] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1371 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Tuning your SU carburettors by Scott Fisher I've been meaning to write this up for some time, ever since I did the SU Performance Tuning 101 a few months ago. This one is more like Basic SU Adjustment for Happy Driving. The trick to tuning SU carbs is to understand that there are two things you need to get right: the air flow, and the fuel mixture. While they are interconnected, they are also independent, and need to be measured and adjusted independently. Special Tools You will probably need to arrange to buy or borrow a Unisyn flow meter. The Unisyn is the usual gauge for getting the air flow balanced between the two carbs. This costs about $20 and is simple to use. It consists of an adjustable opening (same size circumference, but with a disc on a threaded rod that you can screw tighter or looser) that you use to set the level of a little float that rises or falls in a glass tube at the side of the gauge. For the fuel mixture, I have become sold on a device called the Gunson ColorTune (maybe ColourTune, as it's a British co.). This is a spark plug with a crystal pressure- and heat-resistant window in it that lets you see into the combustion chamber while the motor is running. The color of the flame indicates the mixture richness. It costs about $40, and while it's not absolutely essential, it makes life so much easier that it's worth the cost. If you don't have a Gunson, I've included the standard directions here for determining correct mixture (step 4 of the Adjusting Mixture procedure). To tune SU carbs, first locate the following components: Throttle linkage nuts. These are the things that connect the throttle linkage (the bar connected to your foot through whatever means your car uses, cables or rods) to the carburetors' throttle levers. Throttle stop screws. These set the idle speed for each carb, and are located typically behind the dashpot, on the same side of the carb to which the throttle linkage connects. Mixture adjusting nut. This is the lower of the two nuts at the very bottom of the carburetor. Later SU carburetors of the HIF type have integral float chambers, on which the mixture is adjusted by turning a screw. You'll need to experiment (and I explain how) to see which way makes this richer and which way makes it leaner. Lifting pins. These are little wobbly metal pins under the dashpot. When you push up on the pin, it raises the piston in the dashpot. Find these; they're crucial if you don't have a Colortune. If you don't have or can't find them, you can raise the piston with a flat-bladed screwdriver pushed down the throat of the carb and twisted to lift it. The bridge. This is the part inside the carburetor, where the gas jet opens into the airstream. You'll see a needle inside the jet, and the jet itself should be a few fractions of an inch down from the bridge itself. The jet is the brass tube that sits in the center of the bridge, with a tapered needle poking down into it. The choke linkage nuts. Comparable to the throttle linkage nuts (and usually the same size), but on the linkage that goes between the choke cable and the mixture adjustment mechanism. They make sure that both carbs are enriched when you pull on the choke. Balancing The Air Flow 1. Start with the engine warmed up to operating temperature and perform your standard ignition tune-up (points gap, timing, spark plug gap, new condenser, etc.) first. If you've got a timing light and a dwell meter, you can verify all that stuff independent of the way the car is running. When it's warm, shut the motor off and remove the air filters. 2. Begin by balancing the air flow. To do this, first loosen the throttle linkage nuts. Leave them connected, just loosen them half a turn or so. 3. Back out the throttle stop screws till you can see that they are just touching the throttle stop. Then open each carburetor (that is, lower the throttle stop screw) 1-1/2 turns of the throttle stop screw and start the engine. It will probably idle at about 2000 RPM; don't worry. 4. Put the Unisyn over either carb and adjust the orifice in the Unisyn till the little float at the side rests at the middle of its graduated tube. (Pre-diagnostics: if the idle drops and the car wants to die when you slap on the Unisyn, the carb is too rich; if the idle soars upwards, it's too lean.) Hold the Unisyn over the carb for only long enough to see the level of the float, then remove it. 5. Place the Unisyn on each carburetor in turn to check its flow, adjusting the throttle stop screws until both carburetors register the same position on the graduated tube of the Unisyn. (The float will probably move either up or down in the tube, which is why you want to center it in Step 4.) When both carburetors flow the same amount of air, tighten the throttle linkage nuts, adjusting for the amount of free-play between the linkage and the throttle stops that your manual calls for (probably about 0.006"). Your goal should be to achieve the lowest possible idle with both carbs balanced and the engine running smoothly. (Note that the idle speed will very probably rise as you get the mixture correct.) If you've taken more than five minutes to do this, rev the engine to over 2500 RPM (assuming the idle isn't already that high) for thirty seconds or so to clear the spark plugs. Then adjust the mixture. Adjusting The Mixture: Note: in the following procedure, one "flat" is the basic increment of adjustment, and refers to 1/6 of a turn of the mixture adjusting nut. This corresponds to the flat faces on the nut. I'm going to give instructions for SUs with the separate float chambers. If you have the HIF integral-float carbs, you'll have to look in a manual to see whether you turn the mixture screw to the right or the left to make it richer or leaner; I've done that once but I can't remember. Alternatively, you can -- with the motor shut off -- peer down the throat of the carb and turn the mixture screw while watching the top of the jet. Remember that moving the top of the jet up will lean out that carb, while moving the top of the jet down will richen it. 1. Shut the car off and loosen the choke linkage nuts. 2. Adjust the mixture nuts (screws) fully lean. For separate float-chamber cars, this means raising the mixture nut all the way up against the bottom of the carb (or rather, against the spring). For HIF carbs, you can try turning the screw while looking down the throat to see which way the jet is moving. In either case, the idea is to zero out the jet: raise it all the way up in the bridge. 3. Now drop the jet an equal amount -- two full turns for HS-type carbs, two full turns (I believe) for HIFs. Then start the car. Note: In the following step, you might want to consider adjusting the carburetors one-half a flat too lean, as the mixture will be enriched when you put the air filters (which restrict air flow) on at the end of the tuning process. 4. Raise the lifting pin (or use a screwdriver if you don't have the pins) so that the piston rises no more than 1/16". Listen to the engine's exhaust note and compare it to the following conditions: If the exhaust note rises and stays high till you drop the piston, this carburetor is adjusted too rich. Turn the mixture nut one flat (one-sixth of a turn) up, moving the jet toward the bridge, then repeat Step 4. If the exhaust note falls and the car sounds as though it is going to stall, this carburetor is adjusted too lean. Turn the mixture nut one flat (one-sixth of a turn) down, moving the jet away from the bridge, then repeat Step 4. If the exhaust note rises briefly and then settles back down to something like the original RPM level, this carburetor is set correctly. When you have achieved this setting for both carburetors, continue with Step 5. 5. Tighten the choke linkage nuts so that the choke cable will pull an equal amount on both mixture nuts when you pull the knob. 6. At this time, I find I usually have to adjust the idle again because getting the fuel mixture right usually changes the idle speed. Since you know you have the throttles synchronized, I normally just adjust the idle without loosening the throttle linkage. The easiest way is to screw one of the screws out till it doesnt' even touch the throttle stop, then use the other to get the idle speed right. When that's done, you can screw the other stop screw down till it just touches the stop on that carb and you're set. 7. Replace the air filters and go for a test drive! Notes SU carburetors are most fuel-efficient when slightly lean, and provide the most power when they are slightly rich. You can use this knowledge to provide a certain amount of tuning for the kind of driving you do. If you learn to read spark plugs, you can get a basic idea of what your engine's condition is and make fine adjustments to the mixture nuts accordingly. If you have a ColorTune, you simply install it in place of one of the plugs, then adjust the carburetor that feeds that cylinder (the front carburetor for 1 & 2, the rear for 3 & 4). The ColorTune will let you see the color of the flame. White flashes mean too lean; yellow flame means too rich. Blue (like a Bunsen burner) is correct, and blue with a faint orangish tinge is the best for power. You can also modify your car's throttle response characteristics slightly by adjusting the viscosity of the oil in the dashpot damper. SUs are set up so that a thicker oil will resist the piston's attempt to rise in the dashpot for just long enough that the engine's increased load (when the throttle is opened) will pull more fuel across the bridge; this enriches the mixture and temporarily bumps power up to help the engine achieve higher speed more readily. If you modify your engine, you will probably need to modify your needles, as it is the needle profile that determines the mixture curve for different air-fuel loads. If you experience uneven idle, hunting, or an idle that changes (rises or falls) as the engine's temperature climbs or drops, you probably have vacuum leaks. The most serious fault on most old SUs is wear in the throttle shaft area. To test for this, spray some carburetor cleaner on the outside of the throttle shaft; carburetor cleaner is non-combustible, and if the engine speed drops, it means some of this is getting into the air stream from outside the carburetor. You may also have leaks from the manifolds, from tubing such as the vacuum advance line to the distributor (if fitted), or from other places; the carb cleaner trick works well for locating those leaks as well. Other problems that SU carbs experience involve dirt in the dashpot and occasionally in the float chamber. The dashpot is a precision piece of machining that involves very close tolerances so that the piston doesn't stick or bind when it rises and falls. A little grit between the piston and the dashpot can make the car jerk and sputter. Take the dashpot off, wipe the insides down with carb cleaner and a lint-free, clean rag, then reinstall it, getting the screws down tight. Also, don't swap the pistons between dashpots; they're matched to one another so that the clearance between the piston and the wall of the dashpot makes a tight seal but permits easy rising and falling. Dirt in the float bowl basically shuts off that carburetor (or can make it flood open, depending on whether the dirt is wedging the valve open or closed). You can try rapping on the float bowl with the handle of a screwdriver, but your best bet is to take the cover off, clean out the valve fittings, and reinstall everything, with a new fuel filter for good measure. Some older SU models also have adjustable floats, in which you need to set the float height (which basically equals the fuel level in the float chamber) by bending a brass rod. These carburetors were replaced in the mid-1960s with carburetors that had fixed, plastic floats which are basically trouble-free unless abused. The stop at the back of the floats can break if they are installed badly, and the brass pin that holds them in place can wear an oval hole in the float pivot. New floats are fairly inexpensive and aren't a bad idea if you're doing a rebuild. Grose-Jets are very popular with some people and a big pain for others. It appears -- and this is just conjecture -- that Grose-Jets work best in cars with adjustable floats, as they are longer than the stock SU float valves. The standard failure for Grose-Jets is to flood the carburetor. I have never had problems with the stock SU float valves or floats. Like this? Make sure you pop in and say HI to the other Datsun owners in the Datsun Forum! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tuning Your S.U. Carbs by Roger Garnett Well, it's not really that hard to set up SU's, just different. Of course it always gets more interesting when you have more than one... There is a very good Haynes SU carb manual available, reccommended reading. The basic syncing process also applies to Zenith-Stromberg's, but the adjustment mechanisms are different. Here is a laymans guide to adjusting SU's (long): step 1- Tune up the rest of the engine- REALLY! clean or replace, and set the points, set the timing, plugs, valve lash, and remove the air filters. (have new ones ready) All of these things can affect the setting of the carbs, which should be done LAST, (if at all). The carbs rarely need to be adjusted, once set. Also replace/install the gas filter. Of course, it helps if the carbs are in good mechanical condition as well. But you can consider a rebuild once you have gotten things working first! step 2- clean the carbs! use gum-out or similar stuff, clean all external linkages, shafts, and stuff. step 3- Remove the float bowl covers, clean the float bowls, remove old sediment, and check/adjust the float setting. (turn the cover upside down, and get a *1/8" in drill bit, set the drill bit accross the cover, the float tab should just touch the bit.) Make sure the needle is moving and seating properly. This is just like *most* floats. Replace the cover. * This is for HS4 SU's- (1/8-3/16") if you are dealing with 1", H's, HS2's HS6's, HIF's, etc.- check the spec for your carb. Note: You can check for matching float settings, after setting the mixture, by removing the pistons, and peering down at the jets. The fuel level should be about the same on both carbs, a little below the top surface of the jet. (After car has been run only) step 3b- Go get a pint of ale, or something close, and set it nearby. step 4- Remove the piston covers. CAREFULLY remove the piston, DO NOT BEND THE NEEDLE. Set the piston down on a clean wadded rag to prevent rolling. Clean the inside of the carb. Check operation of the throttle. Check the throttle shaft slop- this is the most common place for wear on an SU, and is often where air/vacumn leaks occur. The bushings and shafts can be replaced, but it requires some machining. A small amount of leakage can be tolerated, the car just won't idle as evenly. Clean the piston. Stare in awe at the odd carborator design, simple and effective, (constant velocity). Dump the old oil out of the damper if you haven't already spilled it. clean. Reassemble, check piston movement, raise it, then let go, it should fall freely. If not, check assembly again, make sure the piston isn't binding against the carb body, it should ride only on the damper shaft. Do not strech the spring. When all is operating properly, fill the damper with Marvel Mystery Oil for light damping, or use motor oil for heavier damping. (I use MMO) If you get "flutter" on, acceleration, you might try the heavier oil. step 5- Start the car and warm it up, then turn off/disconnect/otherwise disable the choke mechenism. (Loosen the nuts on the clamps so that the choke stuff isn't doing anything) This will get set later. (Later Zenith-Strombergs have a thermostatic choke, not a cable.) step 6- Check coarse throttle adjustments- make sure the throttle cable pulls on both carbs equally, and returns completly when released. This is adjusted by loosing the set screws on the throttle shaft and matching the two sides. You can also adjust the cable length at this time, using the cable set screw/retainer at the end of the cable. You can check the float adjustments now by removing the piston & cover, and looking at the fuel level in the needle seats. Both carbs should be about even, a little below the top surface of the jet. If not, readjust one or both floats to match the level. step 7- Syncronize the throttles- if you have a uni-syn, here's your chance to use it, (or other air flow guage), if not use a tube and listen to the airflow. The Uni-Syn is much easier to use, and can result in better balance. Alternatly adjust the idle screw on each carb, attempt to set the idle as low as possible (~800-1000 RPM). Adjust until the airflow is *close* to the same at each carb. The engine may now be running rough, just keep the idle speed high enough to keep running. Give the throttle a quick snap to make sure everything is settled, then check sync again. Periodicly snap the throttle to make sure everything is seated. Large differences in where you can adjust the two carbs may indicate air/vacumn leaks, or other problems, such as a bad valve) Magic Time- Relax, and shake your voodoo rattle... step 8- Adjust the mixture- this is done with the spring-loaded hex fitting under the carb, where the fuel supply tube enters from the float. Turning the fitting raises and lowers the needle seat. Pick a carb, and turn the fitting 3 flats (1/2 turn), first in one direction, then back 3, then 3 in the other direction. Note where the engine runs better, idle speed should increase. Turn to the best setting. Repeat this proceedure until you get the best operation you can, (higest idle speed), keeping track of flats turned will help you remember where you were. If you get lost, turn all of the way in, then back out 12 flats and start again. Periodicaly snap the throttle and push up on the fitting to make sure everything is seated. Note: Type HIF carbs (With integrated float bowl) no longer have the hex nut to adjust the mixture. Instead, there is a screw to twiddle, on front of the front carb, and behind the rear. The screw is connected to the needle seat through a temperature compensated gizmo, which is said to make the carbs more stable. Adjustment can be done in much the same way, by counting turns/flats of your screwdriver. There is less adjustment range than with the the basic models. When you think you're close, stop, uncramp your fingers, breath deep, and do the same to the other carb. Then retune the first carb, and then the second again. This serves to match the mixture of the 2 carbs, and prepare you for the beer sitting over there in the sun. (why do you think the British drink warm beer?) step 9- repeat step 7, setting the idle speed as low as possible, and re-syncing the idles. Now go back and readjust the mixtures. After a couple of iterations, the engine should be running smoothly (controlled by mixture) and at a low idle. Repeat as necessary. Set the final idle to 800-1000 RPM, depending on the condition of the rest of the engine. This is a standard mixture test, performed AT IDLE: Under operation, (air filter off) lift the carb piston by 1/16" with the lifting pin or a screwdriver, which leans the mix a tad. If: -RPM's rise and stay up, that carb is rich. -RPM's rise briefly, then drop, mix is about right. -RPM's fall, engine gets rougher- mix is lean. [where is step 10--Ed] step 11- Adjusting the choke- I won't get into the temperature compensation in the type HIF, or the Thermostatic choke in the later strombergs. Check the manual for more info. The choke is supposed to do two things; the first half of travel moves a cam on each carb which opens the throttle, for warm up. The second half pulls down on the needle seat to enrichen the mixture, for starting. Start with the choke in the off position (knob in). Adjust the so that the cam only starts moving the throttle after you start pulling out on the cable (adjust with shafts and adjusting screws). Try to get both carbs adjusted the same, so that both screws begin to hit the cam at the same time. This is not real critical, but you can use your Uni-Syn to match air-flow on both sides, with the choke partly engaged. After the cable is about halfway out, it should start engaging the lever which pulls down on the needle seats. Adjust the linkages so both carbs are acted on equally. You can do this by adjusting for even running of the engine. Of course, for a warm engine, the richness of this mixture will cause some roughness. Make sure the needle seats return freely when you release the choke. step 12- Drink that warm beer (only one, no DWI now...) it will taste great at this point!, go wash up, and go for a ride. Notes: These procedures assume that your engine/carbs are in reasonable operating condition. If something is malfunctioning/leaking, etc, this should still help, but the results may vary. For instance, if you have leaky carbs, worn needles, engine modifications, etc, you may find things work better if you tune for optimum performance at open throttle rather than idle. The first time through carb adjustments can be confusing, once you've done it, all of the stuff in the manuals makes sense. Go back and read them again- As always, I reccommend Bentleys, which is a repro of the original factory manuals, and then Haynes, and throw out the Chiltons. (orginal factory manuals are to be read in a clean enviroment, repros are for smearing grease all over, except, if that's all you got, use it!) Haynes has an excellent manual just for SU carbs, it covers operation, theory, rebuild of all models, and has needle charts for hundreds of car/engine/carb setups. They also have a manual for Zenith-Strombergs, which, while similar, are a whole other beast. [post_title] => Tuning SU Carburetors [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2-write-ups-on-tuning-su-carbs [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:52:37 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:52:37 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [105] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1372 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Credit to Beancooker for the writeup. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU MESS UP YOUR CAR!!! PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! O.k. this is a really easy mod, it won't give you horsepower, per se, but keeps you from burning any blow-by oil and dirtying your intake manifold. Also adding oil to gas lowers octane level. I was given this idea from IRISH44J, so thank him, I'm just passing along useful information. 1. Go to Home Depot, look in the air compressor section and find a "huskey" brand water catch $10.Find two 3/8" brass nipples to fit the in and out sides of water catch $3.50. Find about 5ft. of 3/8"(inside diameter) hose, must be the reinforced kind (safe for vacuum) $7.50. Four hose clamps will be needed $2.00. One small roll of yellow Teflon tape (for gas pipes and petroleum products) $1.25. 2. Assemble the nipples to the water catch (water catch will be your oil catch). Don't forget to use Teflon tape on threads. 3. Find a good mounting point for your oil catch and mount in place. (I used the OEM airbox bracket) 4. Remove your OEM PCV valve hose. Attach a length of the new hose to the PCV valve and clamp in place. Run new hose to the "in" side of the oil catch. Attach to oil catch and clamp in place. Run new hose from "out" side of oil catch to the vacuum pipe on the intake manifold (where the OEM hose was connected). Clamp in place. Make sure everything is tight, start car and check for leaks. (If you smoke, lite a cig and hold it near the hose clamps to see if it draws smoke in) 5. IT WILL SOUND DIFFERENT than it used to. More of a whistle sound. 6. You're all done, have a beer (or a Pepsi) and catch some oil. Depending on your car and PCV valve you may catch a little or a lot of oil. If the catch tank fills in 50-100 miles check into a new PCV valve. I have a new PCV valve and catch about 3oz per 100-150 miles. PICTURES (Click for full size) [post_title] => Installing a PCV Blow-by Oil Catch on a Nissan Maxima/Infiniti I30 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-i30-how-to-install-a-pcv-blow-by-oil-catch [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:06:24 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:06:24 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [106] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1373 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => I wanted a windsplitter for my maxima, however they are very expensive. So... Go to home depot and buy a gallon of fiberglass resin and a sheet of 1/8" masonite (hard press fiberboard) $35. Go to a fabric store and buy two yards of fleece $5. Go to a specialty fastener store (Tacoma screw) and buy 16- 3/16"x9/16" with 3/4" flange rivets $2. Get a piece of cardboard and cut out a template of the windsplitter. Make sure to have the correct dimensions of the underside of your car (mounting points). When your cardboard template is spot on, transfer it to the masonite. Fit the masonite to the underside of car and trim if necessary. When the masonite fits perfectly, wrap in fleece and secure tightly with spray adhesive. Mix fiberglass as per directions and cover fleece (paint on and mix in small batches to keep from setting up too quickly make sure to saturate the fleece completely. After many coats of fiberglass Bondo any bad spots. When it's completely cured, use a heat gun (or in my case my wife's hair dryer) and heat the fiberglass and bend. You have to get it good and warm and be very patient when bending or you'll crack it. I soaked it in the sun for a couple of hours and then heated it and bent it. The aluminum angle pieces are on there for lateral support. They also straightened it from front to back because when I bent up the sides, it also put a front to back curve in it. Wet sand well, start with 150grit and work up to 600. Use glazing putty to fill all airholes (very small but will show up in paint). Re-wetsand with 600 grit. Primer and paint wetsand in between all coats to avoid "orange peel". Put under front end, drill 3/16 holes thru splitter and bumper, and rivet in place (use 3/16 washers on backside of rivets to keep from "popping thru" the urethane bumper. Optional- spend $50. on wind splitter support rods. Done, enjoy a beer, or in my case a Pepsi and enjoy your new aggressive look. (Some adjustment will need to be done to achieve the proper amount of downforce) [post_title] => How to build a $40 windsplitter [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => build-windsplitter [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:06:38 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:06:38 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [107] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1374 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Replacing the Thermostat on a VG30ET by:winez31 1: drain the coolant by unbolting the coolant temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator. It will have two wires coming out of it just follow them up and unplug it. 2: unscrew and remove the hose clamps from the small hose thats connected to the thermostat housing.(this is a good time to replace that hose because they are known to leak) 3: now remove the hose clamp that connects the hose to the radiator. then romove the hose. 4: there are 3 bolts that hold the housing together. Unbolt those and remove the top half of the housing. You might have to scrape off some gasket sealer around the outside of the housing. 5: now switch out the old thermostat with the new, and replace the gasket. 6: now do everything in reverse. [post_title] => Z31: Replacing the Thermostat on a VG30ET [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-thermostat-replace [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:29:07 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:29:07 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [108] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1375 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Wilwood Big Brake Installation and review by Fahaka: A good thrill can come from many different sources. Perhaps your thrill may come from a fast roller coaster or riding horses or, as in my case, a fast car. In fact a fast car can be extra thrilling if it is a car that you have built yourself. In the case of the 240sx, we are often turning a cool looking poser into the capable sports car that many of us feel it should have been in the first place. In the process of making the 240sx faster we often raise the level of performance to the point where further modification to the suspension and brakes are necessary to keep the car safe. Better brakes and suspension are usually the first modifications most of us make in anticipation of increasing power from under the hood. A fast rear wheel drive car with an overwhelmed suspension and brakes can be a recipe for disaster. Even with stock power, many new comers to the “S” chassis find themselves replacing multi-link suspension components, as their first modification, because they have under steered into a curb or over steered into an embankment. After the suspension has been modified, more experienced drivers will testify that the stock 240sx brakes are a little undersized for continuous track duty or even spirited driving. Several options for brake upgrades are available for the 240sx, weather it be in the form of OEM products or after market upgrades that can improve brake performance. Many people may have experienced the thrill of fast acceleration that you get from high horse power cars, but many may be surprised to feel the thrill you can get from extreme brakes. The ability to stop now, at any time from high speeds in surprisingly short distances can be exhilarating; in much the same way as acceleration can be thrilling. Dave Epstein, a self proclaimed “Z” freak and owner of ArizonaZcar.com, has been involved in Nissan after market performance for more than twenty years, and has built a reputation for making Z cars go faster. Dave made a name for himself selling racing brakes for Z cars to make them more competitive on the track. Fortunately for us, many of the parts made for Z cars can also be used on the 240sx, specifically the brakes. Upon meeting Dave and several of his close friends, I was promptly escorted to a 1971 240Z that was heavily modified and they all wanted me to feel how good its 13” wilwood brakes worked. We took a trip out to the local meet and left with a group of Corvettes, a Viper, and an R32 skyline. After repeatedly trouncing all comers with his super-fast turbocharged Z, Dave's friend would stab the brakes, from speeds approaching 150mph, with mind altering results. I was immediately sold on these brakes and needed no further convincing. Dave offers three different brake kits for the 240sx: Kit # 1 includes: 12.2” rotors with Dave's own aircraft grade billet aluminum rotor centers in both four and five lug patterns, Your choice of either forged or billet aluminum 44mm (for the front kit) or 35mm (for the rear kit) four piston calipers, Aircraft grade billet aluminum mounting brackets, Grade 8 zinc plated fasteners and hardware, Wilwood racing brake pads and stainless steel braided brake lines. This kit is available for either front or rear brake applications. Cost = $795 per axle Kit # 2 includes: 13” rotors with Dave's own aircraft grade billet aluminum rotor centers in both four and five lug patterns, Your choice of either forged or billet aluminum 44mm four piston calipers, Aircraft grade billet aluminum mounting brackets, Grade 8 zinc plated fasteners and hardware, Wilwood racing brake pads and stainless steelbraided brake lines. This kit is available front brake applications only. Cost = $1100 per axle Kit # 3 includes: 13” rotors with Dave's own aircraft grade billet aluminum rotor centers in both four and five lug patterns, billet aluminum 44mm six piston calipers, Aircraft grade billet aluminum mounting brackets, Grade 8 zinc plated fasteners and hardware, Wilwood racing brake pads and stainless steelbraided brake lines. This kit is available front brake applications only. Cost = $1400 per axle According to Dave these kits have been specifically designed to work with the stock master cylinder and no other modifications are necessary. Furthermore when front and rear brake kits are purchased Arizona Z car will include a brake proportioning valve (for the rear) and a line lock to replace the parking brake which is eliminated by this kit. I chose to go with kit #1 for the rear and kit #2 for the front. Arizona Z Car stocks all of the kits and usually has them available for immediate shipment. I purchased the kits from Dave and helped him assemble the kits in his warehouse (He doesn't usually do this). For all the Arizona people these kits can usually be picked up the same day from Dave's warehouse in Mesa. Typical ship times are 1-2 weeks if the parts are in stock. Installation: I installed this kit on my '89 coupe, but the installation should be roughly the same for S13/S14/Z32/Q45...etc applications. After getting the kit home I first prepped the car for Installation. Since I had already decided to do the rear brakes first (as there is more work involved), I chocked the front wheels, broke the rear lugs loose and lifted the rear of the car at the differential and supported the car with jack stands at the pinch welds in front of the rear wheels. 1.Remove the rear wheels. 2.Remove the cotter pin from the axle castle nut and the retaining plate. 3.Loosen but do not remove the 36mm axle bolt (It is a pain if you don't do it now). 4.Remove the caliper and disconnect the brake line (I used a plastic water bottle to catch the fluid that will drip out) and the parking brake cable. 5.Remove the brake rotor and the axle nut. 6.Remove the four bolts that hold the hub to the spindle (this is a great time to do a five lug swap), and remove the hub. I did this by disconnecting the upper control arms and pulling the axles out of the spindle, but this is not necessary. 7.Using a cutoff wheel, remove the factory caliper mounts from the spindle. The final result should look like this: 8.Remove the factory brake lines after they have stopped leaking and install the braided lines. 9.Reattach the hub, with the supplied fasteners and sandwich the new caliper mounting plate between the hub and spindle: 10.Mount new Rotors to the hub attach the brake lines to the calipers and mount the calipers. 11. Bleed the brakes (I used a $3 brake bleeding tool that I purchased to bleed the brakes I highly recommend them they work great). 12.Disconnect the parking brake cable from the cabin and the undercarriage and discard. 13.Put the wheels back on and torque them down. Note the 12.2” brakes clear S14 SE Alloys better than 300zx brakes. At this point you can relax because the hard part is done. To complete the front brakes, break loose the front lugs and jack the car up at the radiator support and place jack stands to either side of the jack at the radiator support. 1.Remove the front wheels. 2.Remove the calipers and disconnect the brake lines. 3.Remove the rotors 4.Attach the “Dog Bone” Mounts to the factory caliper mounts with the supplied hardware, be careful to follow Dave's instructions here, as a misplaced washer will require re-installation. 5.Mount the new rotors, attach braided brake lines to the calipers and mount the calipers. 6.Bleed the calipers. 7.Mount the wheels, and enjoy. The results are spectacular. Pedal modulation is very precise. I have not yet installed the proportioning valve yet so the brakes are slightly biased towards the rear, but only lock slightly before the fronts. Threshold braking is easy because of the pedal feel, and repeated stops from high speed have resulted in no fade at all from these brakes. I have had to be careful while driving on the freeway. Several times I have come up on stopped traffic in the high speed lanes and had to be careful not to out brake the cars behind me. I previously had a S14 with a set of 30mm 300zx brakes with hawk pads, braided brake lines and blue brake fluid and factory rear brakes with braided lines and hawk pads. I used the same tires and tire size as what I am using now (245/45/17 Falken RT-615’s) and there is no comparison in feel and capability. I hear many people say that factory or 300zx brakes is all that is necessary, but there is a reason they use these type of brakes on expensive exotic cars, to have awesome braking feel and ability. Lastly I stopped by AZhitman’s place shortly after the install. The car was not really running right, but I wanted to show off the new brakes to Greg. I will let him testify to their worth, but while in the car he seemed to be very impressed. Modified by Fahaka at 7:27 PM 8/28/2006 [post_title] => Wilwood Big Brake Installation 240sx [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => wilwood-big-brake-installation [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:46:25 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 03:46:25 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [109] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1376 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Here’s a little write-up on how to remove the Cooling Unit from your G50 Q45. The Cooling Unit is where the AC evaporator is found as well as the expansion valve. I’m starting with the glove box already removed, since most of us have done this and to help keep this short and sweet. I’ve included a few pictures to help you visualize the write up. I’m following what I did and I do not claim to be a Q45 mechanic. Tools you’ll need: Large crescent wrench 17mm wrench 12mm wrench 19mm wrench Phillips screwdriver Ratchet Extension 10mm socket 12mm socket Razor blade First thing I did was remove negative cable from the battery post then released the pressure from the AC system (officially vacuumed the system since simply releasing freon is strictly against the law!!) so I could remove the high and low pressure lines at the firewall in the engine compartment. In the picture below you’ll see the big low-pressure line, which I unfastened first. This is where I used the large crescent wrench. (32, 30mm) Now in order to get at the high-pressure line directly below the bigger low-pressure line I remove the bracket in the picture below by removing the nut. (Replace the nut when the bracket has been removed so you don’t lose it) With the bracket unhooked it’s easy to move and manipulate the lines to get to the smaller high-pressure line directly below the high-pressure line you just unfastened. The 17mm wrench and 19mm wrench are needed here. Now I would suggest wrapping the ends of lines from the engine compartment with duct tape to keep the critters out. Now in the car behind the glove box is a back wall, which you will have to remove using the Phillips screwdriver. There are a number of screws including two plastic screw fasteners at the top. Once all the screws are out pull the wall down and place all your screws where you won’t loose them. You should now be looking at this: To the right you can see your blower motor and in the middle is the cooling unit, which you’ll be pulling right out shortly. Looks like it’s really in there doesn’t it? Don’t worry; it’s not all that bad. That bar will be coming out but first you’ll have to move over to the right and remove the trim you see here and it’s very easy: Next the bar comes out. There are a few different screws that have to come out and once 10mm nut comes off to the right. Just follow the bar and you’ll see all the screws and bolt that have to come off: It’s almost done!! Going back to this picture there are a few connectors to disconnect and 6 screws to remove: The two connectors need to be disconnected first, and then you’ll see a bracket with 2 screws in it at the top right corner of the cooling unit. You can see part of it in the picture. Unscrew that bracket. Now you’ll need the ratchet and extension to get to the two 10mm screws way up top in the back of the cooling unit. (Not in picture) The last two bolts are at the bottom of the cooling unit at the firewall. Once those are out you’re cooling unit will come right out. Simply pull towards you! The cooling unit is two pieces, which are screwed together; unscrew them. Now I took a razor blade and cut the foam right at the points where the two halves separate so that I wouldn’t ruin the seal. You’ll have some other little pieces to take off as well: Once the cooling unit is apart and the evaporator is pulled out you may have a little cleaning to do! Keep in mind that I have a 14-year-old car and it doesn’t look like anyone has visited here in a while: Tape the high and low-pressure lines up ASAP so you don’t contaminate them with dirt, bugs or whatever. I used the blower attached to an airline to blow out the evaporator with some high-pressure air. I also unwrapped the expansion valve. The copper lines you see in this picture are part of the expansion valve: So there you have it. Not to hard, but it take some time and patience. That’s as simple as I can make it and if I missed something you will be able to make your own decision as to how to do it. I just hope this helps a little. I'm sure someone will find something wrong with it. Oh yeah, this according to Infiniti's own books, which I now have in my possession, I saved 1.3 hrs on the evaporator core unit, 1.3 hrs on the changing of the expansion valve, 1.3 hrs on the evaporator case(cooling unit) and .4 hrs on the glove box assembly. So 4.3 hrs at $90 -$120 hr dealer rate, $75 hr foreign auto mechanic rate, $65 neighborhood chop shop rate or $0 using this article! [post_title] => How to remove Q45 HVAC Evaporator and Cooling Unit [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-hvac-removal [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-02-26 23:38:41 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-02-27 06:38:41 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [110] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1378 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Click for better viewing [post_title] => Paint Code Guide for 350Z [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => paint-code-350z [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-17 20:05:22 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-18 03:05:22 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [111] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1379 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => 1. Slide arm rest out (this may be stuck, and require some pressure). 2. EASILY remove window switch plastic cover (It pops off, and breaks VERY easily). 3. Remove 3 screws holding door panel to frame. 4. Pop all plastic clips holding perimeter of door panel (be easy - take your time). 4a. Disconnect all electrical connections carefully. 4b. Remove the Bose speaker assembly & disconnect. 5. Peel back clear plastic cover and gooey cement (do not tear or cut plastic - be patient, the goo will peel off the steel). 6. There are about 6 screws that hold the regulator and motor assembly to the door, and 2 that hold it to the glass frame. Remember, the car is over 10 years old and plastic gets brittle. Replacement parts are expensive. More than likely, the regulator is bad.$85 from everythinginfiniti.com Ask for Joe. Tell them you are from NICO. [post_title] => Q45 window regulator replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-window-regulator-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 12:01:07 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 19:01:07 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [112] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1380 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => 240sx 5-Speed Manual Transmission Swap: A Tutorial In this writeup, two different cars were having the conversion done simultaneously. One is Matt’s ’98 starfire blue S14, the other is my ’97 cobalt green S14. The procedure was basically the same for both cars, and some pictures may jump from one car to the other. The procedure is the same for OBDI cars except OBDI cars to not require the a Crank Angle Sensor. The parts necessary for the swaps were obtained from 2 separate OBDII ’96 S14s. OBDI transmissions could have been used, but a mount would have to be drilled for the CAS, and we didn’t want to worry about that. The conversions were carried out in my 2 ½ car garage using jack stands and basic tools. I will try to provide as many pictures as possible. WARNING: Before you start I suggest you read this entire writeup, and search for others - you will want all the info you can get. Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremely hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in. You will need patience. Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a 240sx only weighs 2800 lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull. Difficulty: **** Time: 8-12 hours Cost: $400-$500 Tools: Wrench Set (ratcheting wrenches come in handy, so do obstruction wrenches) Socket Set (with plenty of extensions and universals) Breaker Bars Torque Wrench Vice Grips Jack stands Floor Jacks Scissor Jacks (to help support stuff under the car – you don’t have to fit the big bar under also) Pilot Bearing puller (can be rented at Autozone) Slide Hammer for Pilot Bearing Puller (can be rented at Autozone) Loctite RTV Gasket Maker Propane Torch to break loose flywheel bolts (can be bought at Autozone) Wire Strippers Wire Cutters Wire Connectors 16 gauge wire (A few different colors - may be able to reuse what you take out of the car) Wire Connectors A few friends Factory Service Manual (can be downloaded off target="top">NICOclub.com) PB Blaster Gear Oil 75W90 Brake fluid or clutch fluid (same thing) Dremel with cutting bits Power drill with metal cutting bits and circle cutting bits Carb Cleaner (to clean off flywheel) Materials: 5-speed transmission from an S14 (you could try an s13 if you want) 5-speed Drive shaft front and rear sections (this may differ if you have ABS/LSD) Flywheel (new or resurfaced) M/T flywheel bolts (A/T bolts are too short) Clutch Kit (Clutch, Throwout bearing, Pressure Plate, alignment tool) Shifter assembly (plate, lower rubber boot, upper leather boot, finisher plate) 5-speed Cross member Clutch Master cylinder Clutch Slave cylinder Clutch hardlines Clutch rubber line and dampener line (which you may want to remove anyways) Clutch pedal assembly 5-Speed Brake pedal assembly or a cut brake pedal Bellhousing bolts for a 5 speed bellhousing (some of the A/T bolts can be reused) Bolts to hold Pressure Plate to Flywheel (same thread as bolts that hold shifter to transmission, but a tad shorter) Procedure: 1. Put the car up on jack stands as high as you can get it (you will need to slide the tranny out the bottom), make sure it is not going anywhere – it will be shaken a bit. Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt. 2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. Remove the console from the car – only a few bolts and it will lift off. 3. Remove the 2 harnesses that come out of your carpet and connect to the a/t shifter. 4. Remove the Cotter pin holding the A/T shifter to the A/T tranny 5. Remove the shifter and all the stuff that comes with it. You will now see the ground through your center console. 5 1/2. remove the shifter cable that goes to the ignition, it controls the key release 6. Next, take out the driveshaft. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from whipping around if it breaks. Next, remove the bracket that holds the middle of the driveshaft up, and slide out your drive shaft. 7. Next, remove the dust plates from the transmission bellhousing, they are at the very front of the transmission. 8. There are some A/T cooling hardlines that run all over the automatic transmission, and two that run to the radiator. Disconnect these hardlines and pull them out. Don’t be afraid to bend them – you won’t ever use them again. Get them out of your engine bay. 9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut. 10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day). You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. One of the top ones has a recirculation pipe bracket attached to it, the pipe runs down to the transmission – disconnect it and remove the bolt. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose. 11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the cross member. At the same time, get as many jacks as you can under the tranny – in a few steps it will come off.Also, there is an exhaust bracket on the tranny you must remove. 12. Where you took the dust plates off of the bellhousing earlier, you should be able to look back into the transmission and see some bolts holding the torque converter onto the flywheel – undo these 4 bolts. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley. Note: the flywheel gets hard to turn when the engine starts a compression stroke. 13. After the torque converter is unbolted, the transmission will come loose (if not, you can kick it from the front some) – it will pop off and weighs about 250 – 300 lbs. ( a good bit more than the 5 speed – which means that this is a weight reduction!) Get some of your friends to help with this part. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before. Then slowly lower the tranny the rest of the way – you don’t want it to fall to one side and knock out a jack stand 14. This next step is very frustrating. The automatic flywheel is held on by 6 bolts torqued down to about 120 ft/lbs, and your flywheel will try to turn when you try to break these bolts. Brace your flywheel from moving as best you can. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy. 15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a ¼ inch out of the crankshaft. This is the A/T adapter bearing –and you don’t want an A/T. To remove the bushing either chisel it out with an air chisel, or dremel (which will take about 30 minutes to an hour) or go rent a pilot bushing remover tool and slide hammer from autozone and use it (which will take about 20 seconds). note: on my car, the A/T adapter bearing would not budge, and even broke the bearing puller tool.Three hours later with a dremel and lots of broken bits we got the darn bearing out. Procedure – Manual Install I did not include what needs to be lubed, so check your FSM for where to put on lithium grease - some parts of the transmission need it, and some (like the clutch disc) will not work if they get greasy. 1. Now you are about halfway done. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Once it gets slid in all the way it should not go any further (but it does go pretty far into the crankshaft).Then, push on your manual transmission gasket (it should align itself on some dowels) 2. Slide the new flywheel on (there are 2 little holes that line up (on one the flywheel and one on the crankshaft), but nothing actually goes thru them – but we still lined them up) Put back in the flywheel bolts, and torque them down to 100ft/lbs in a crisscross pattern. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over.Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar. 3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and the crankshaft – you will take it off later. Make sure you have the correct side of the clutch facing the flywheel – it should have stamped on it “flywheel side, or transmission side”. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. 4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Bolt down the pressure plate to the flywheel – there are some dowels on the flywheel that fit into the pressure plate. Everything will be pretty tightly bound together but don’t worry – it needs to be tight so the clutch plate will stay aligned. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out. 5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together. 5 ½. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already. 6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work. 7. This is the hardest step to do. You now get to stab your 5 speed gearbox into the clutch/pilot bushing. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts. Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Next loosen the engine mounts that hold the mount to the body – not the engine to the mount, with these loose, jack up the front of the engine so you have a better approach angle with the transmission. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. Jack the transmission up and slide stab/wrestle/hammer/cuss the transmission to slide onto the pilot bearing/clutch. Easier said then done. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Also, once it is in if it is not perfect, it will not fit on all the way – you may want to try spinning the flywheel to help line everything up. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch.We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the cross member and bolt the cross member back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines. 8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. Remove the bolts holding that white A/T box thing and move it to the side. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster. Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal. 9. Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together. 10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about. 11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to. 12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it. 13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot. 14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time) 15. Start your car and see what happens. 16. We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit. 17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles) Wiring Visit: http://www.ka24development.com....htmlfor wiring instructions. Any other sensors that were on the auto, but not on the 5 speed can be cut off and discarded - I believe there were 2 or 3 of them on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Results: The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt's car will grind if you do not shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not figured out how to get cruise control working - so that shouldn't be too hard. My car is not 100% swapped yet, but due to some previous-owner installed car alarm, I can't get my radio to work. The car is throwing the following codes: 0804a/t diagnosis communication, I believe I just need to plug my small ecu thing back up on the drivers side 1108 shift solenoid 1201 shift solenoid 1203 overrun switch 1204 tc clutch solenoid, i believe this is the switch on the top of my fender in the engine bay, i should be able to put a resistor and fix that code 1205 line pressure 1208 fluid temperature ECU Swapping: In order to get rid of the CEL (which would have prevented the car from passing OBDII testing when the car is inspected), a Manual ECU was used. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stick shift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can re-pin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt's car). In order to re-pin it, follow the link here: JWT Wiring pdf Once it is re-pinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is mentioned in the link) __________________ Overview by nightkid86 : [post_title] => 240sx 5-speed swap tutorial [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 240sx-manual-trans-install-tutorial [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:07:20 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:07:20 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [113] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1381 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => As you know, whether from seeing cars on the road or hearing people talk, there are multiple forms of automotive lighting available. I will discuss standard halogen lighting and HID lighting as well as important terms in the following tech article. Many automotive manufacturers, including Nissan, Infiniti, Audi, VW, BMW, Toyota, Lexus, Acura, Ford, and Cadillac, use HID lighting in their factory cars so it is far from uncommon to see. Please familiarize yourself with the terms below and the simple science of how each system works. Also discussed will be the costs, advantages, disadvantages, availability, and how to of each type of lighting. Important Terms to Know Wattage/Watt – (w) - The measure of electrical power Voltage/Volt – (v) - The measure of electrical charge Ampere/Amp – The measure of electrical current Kelvin – (K) - The measure of color temperature Lumen – (lu) – The measure of light brightness Candela – (cd) – The measure of light intensity Pattern – The beam pattern of light that is projected. This includes depth and width of illumination, and angle of light dispersion. Cut-off – A definitive line of light produced by the headlight that blocks or cuts off light above a certain level in order to prevent glare and blinding for oncoming motorists. Halogen lighting Halogen bulbs are currently used in most production cars and have been religiously for the past half-century. Chances are your car is using halogen bulbs. The bulbs are your standard incandescent light bulbs that operate on direct current running through a filament. The filament is fragile and is usually made out of a coil of wire created from exotic metals. This is encased in a glass bulb material and often filled with a gas. When current (or amperage) is supplied to the positive side of the circuit and travels to the bulb it crosses the coil of wire (filament) where it encounters high resistance. This resistance generates heat and thus produces light. Halogen headlight bulbs typically operate between 55 and 85 watts. They are quite inefficient though as more heat is produced than light. Also, as the bulb ages, tungsten (the common metal that filaments are constructed out of) atoms evaporate as a result of the repeated high temperatures. The addition of the inert gas in the bulb reduces evaporation and thus increases longevity of the bulb. These atoms build up on the glass over time and are the reason burned-out bulbs often seem to have a burned grayish color to them. Eventually, it evaporates enough that the filament breaks and the bulb ceases to function. The major benefit of halogen bulbs and their accompanying lighting systems are cost. The bulbs are very cheap to replace and there are not many components to fail. Gas Discharge or High Intensity Discharge lighting HID lighting is very different from standard incandescent bulbs. Instead of a filament, gas discharge uses a bulb with two electrodes next to each other. HID bulbs are filled with noble gases and metal salts. These two ingredients are a major part of the lighting process. HID bulbs also do not dim nearly as much over time when compared to halogen bulbs. A ballast powers the two electrodes mentioned above. A ballast is essentially a circuit board made up of resistors, transistors, and capacitors. This acts as an ignition of sorts to light the bulb and regulate power flow. Ballasts take a small amount of power and produce a tremendous output (generally 35w at 12v and generating 25,000v). This power is sent to the positive electrode and creates an electrical arc across the two electrodes. This process excites the gas and causes it to discharge light (photon particles). This is where the name gas discharge comes from. The main disadvantage to a HID lighting system is the cost. Many kits can run well over $600. 00 and replacement bulbs often run at least $50. 00. There are also more components to potentially fail in an HID system than a halogen lighting system. A side by side comparison of Halogen and HID HID bulbs produce roughly ten times more intense light (over 200,000cd vs. 20,000cd for halogen) HID bulbs last eight to ten times longer than halogen bulbs (2750 hours vs. 300 hours) HID bulbs produce at least four times more bright light than halogen (3200lu vs. 800lu) HID bulbs use less wattage than halogen bulbs (35w vs. 55-85w) HID bulbs produce a less visually fatiguing output than halogen (less infrared and UV light) HID bulbs produce a higher Kelvin light, which being whiter than the output of a halogen bulb illuminates the road better. HID bulbs have high flux properties thus distributing light more evenly. HID bulbs produce a much wider and deeper beam pattern than halogen bulbs. HID bulbs are much more expensive than halogen bulbs. HID systems are very expensive when compared to halogen systems. HID bulb options There are two types of HID bulbs on the market today, D2S and D2R bulbs. The difference between the two is the D2R bulbs have a metallic strip along the edge of the bulb to reduce glare. The D2S bulb typically produces more light out of the two. Generally, D2R bulbs are used in reflector housings and D2S bulbs are used in projector housings. By no means is this rule set in stone though. Quite a few companies manufacture HID bulbs but the two most common in factory (OEM) cars is Sylvania or Phillips. Most manufacturers offer at least a twelve month warranty on their HID bulbs. Bulb Colors Color selection is a big part of HID selection. Almost all factory (OEM) HID kits are 4300K but some manufacturers use 6000K. The higher the Kelvin or K rating on a bulb, the lower the light output in lumens. Many aftermarket companies offer HID kits of 8000K, 10000K or 12000K. In my opinion, the only reason one would buy a kit with a Kelvin rating of over 6000K is that they are misinformed or uneducated in the area of lighting. Many people will try to tell you that bulbs with a high Kelvin rating (the bulbs that are very blue or purple) are brighter than those with a color of 4300-6000K. That is 100% false. For visibility purposes do not buy a kit with an extremely high color temperature. You can see below how quickly light brightness declines as color temperature increases. Here is a chart of K vs. lu 3000K = 4000lu 4300K = 3200lu 6000K = 2900lu 8000K = 2450lu 10000K = 2200lu 12000K = 1800lu The reason most HID bulbs appear blue Aside from the natural color of the light at 4300-6000K, which generates a bluish hue, the projector lenses, their curvature, the reflector, etc generate the color. They work together to produce light as optically designed. HID kit options You have several options on HID kits. The most common approach is buying an aftermarket HID kit specific to your car and bulb type. This is very effective if done properly. Also, many people opt to pick up factory units from salvage yards and retrofit them into their car. Installing the projector housing, bulb, and ballast assembly. Kits are available for most popular applications and bulb sizes including H1, H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H10, H11, H13, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, etc. Aftermarket kits are nice as they come with ballasts, wiring, bulbs, and they are often “plug and play. ”Plug and play kits do not require any wiring as the bulbs and ballasts plug into your existing headlight sockets and are a snap to install (often taking a half an hour or less!)But remember, improperly installed kits can cause excessive glare, be bothersome to other motorists, and have adverse lighting effects. Make sure you do your homework! -Information compiled by NSRz32 [post_title] => Lighting choices for your car - HID, Halogen, kits [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => hid-halogen-headlights [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:07:40 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:07:40 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [114] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1383 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => With the help of the technical service manual on CD produced by Nissan on the 2002 and 2003 Maxima I now have located the quick fix for a problem I have had since purchasing my used 2002 SE a few months ago. That is the drivers door window one-touch up function for the window was not working properly. The window would go up to the top and then retreat about 5 inches back down again. This problem is due to the limit switch needing to be reset which at first I thought would be a considerable job (to take off the door panel etc.) but ended up being literally a 2 minute job as the door panel can remain in place. My dealer wanted $85 CDN for the switch reset which I knew was a rip off before I found the fix procedure myself. I know several '02 and '03 Maxima owners have had this same problem but no-one then appeared to know the fix. Alhough this procedure is simple once you do it, my description seems long as I wanted to be a descriptive as possible since I can't provide pictures. So here it is: Step 1: Pry the plastic cap up off the bottom centre of the door pull handle and remove the single philips screw. Step 2: Remove the whole switch panel (in which the door pull handle sits) by prying it up from the back end either with a flat edged screwdriver or table knife (under cloth) or by hand which is what I did. It is just clipped in so should come out relatively easily sliding it up at the back and then pulling it back. You can now see the inside of the door from where the switch finishing plate sat. You can leave the wiring all attached and simply hang the switch and handle plastic assembly to one side so you can see the inside of the door. Look inside towards the front bottom of the door behind the plastic vapour barrier you will see a small black switch. It almost looks like a black pan screw head. This is the reset switch but there is a sequence to now doing the actual reset procedure. The switch doesn't really feel like one when you press it through the plastic liner which incidentally you don't need to cut (at least I didn't have to). It is a switch that is only on when you are pressing it otherwise when released it is off. STEP 3: Make sure the window is closed (up) completely. Turn the ignition on so the windows are receiving power. a) Press the reset switch (and keep it pressed in) and open (down) the window completely (manually -NOT with AUTO ONE TOUCH DOWN FUNCTION). b) Release the reset switch. Then close the window completely (manually only - NOT AUTO UP). c) The limit switch is now reset. Easy!!! Thanks to:asianstyle [post_title] => Maxima power window auto-up repair [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-power-window-repair [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 20:55:41 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 03:55:41 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [115] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1384 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By GQ Jay. Monday's project: broken strut mount on the 97t. replaced: LF strut, bearing, mount, dust boot, gasket.while in the area, did the left rack boot and the sway bar bushings.would have done the sway link [more on that later]. since i wanted to change rack boots anyway, and i get nervous about ripping the balljoint/tie rod end rubber parts with the pickle fork, I opted to remove the lower control arm intact. DIY hints [i won't list every bolt size, etc. since y'all can turn wrenches...] 1. the fstb does not need to be completely removed, only remove the backing nut to get at the [inboard] strut mount nut. 2. it may help to break torque on the strut center bolt while everything is still hooked up. of course, you don't want to back it all the way off, as it holds the spring in...... 3. the A-LB pickup is attached to the back of the hub.remove it carefully and hang it out of the way.you already know to hang your calipers so as not to stress the lines. 4. out of order, but you need [well at least want] to remove the caliper and rotor to get out of your way and make it a bit more manageable for manhandling. 5. be sure and count turns on the steering link as you untwist the tie rod.liquid paper, or a scribe line works well.also, undoing the little clamp that secures the outer rubber end of the boot helps to keep from twisting the boot. 6. the sway link needs to be undone to remove the strut.i presoaked the nuts with liquid wrench, but still had one frozen.ended up disconnecting at the swaybar and removing with the link attached. tension rod needs to be undone if you do it this way [or you get to separate the ball joint from the spindle] yikes, it's been stripped!! actually, the floor jack helped save my back during reinstall..... [post_title] => 1997-2001 Infiniti Q45 installing new strut mounts [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-strut-mounts [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:58:31 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:58:31 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [116] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1385 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: Q_SHIP First off, You do not need to buy a whole new strut for a non-touring car. All you need to order is a new non-touring shock cartridge. The cartridges WILL fit into a touring lower strut. You will lose the adjustable ride control but the savings is worth it. (The whole non-touring strut will not work with your touring model. Brakes and wheel bearings are different. The non-touring has a shorter spindle.) Also order new strut bearings for the front and new touring strut mounts. The non-touring strut mounts WILL NOT work. Make sure you get the ones for a touring model. Fronts: 1. Remove the entire strut. No need to remove the hub or rotors. 2. Remove spring from Strut. These things are under some serious tension so be carefull removing the springs. 3. Carefully secure the strut to a vise at a point that will not damage the strut casing. Use a pipe wrench to remove the nut holding the cartridge into the strut. Remove the cartridge and empty out all the old strut oil. 4. Replace strut oil with new and replace with a new cartridge. Be sure to snug the nut down onto the new cartridge. 5. Compress and replace the spring, spring cap, bearing, and touring strut mount. 6. Put the whole unit back in the car. Rears: This was a lot easier than the fronts. Same steps there. Also replace the rear strut mounts while you are there. Be sure to use the touring model strut mounts. Now the whole point of this post is so the guys with Touring adjustable suspension know what they need to do this swap. It can be done cheap. I learned this the hard way. Just be sure to use all the mounting hardware for the Touring car. If you don't mind losing the adjustable feature, this is a cheap suspension rehab. [post_title] => 1997-2001 Q45 Installing Non-Touring struts on a Touring Model [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-touring-replacement-struts [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:58:56 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:58:56 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [117] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1387 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Rebuilding Q45 Brake Calipers

By:"Ozzie".

I had to rebuild one of my brake calipers, and thought it would make for a good article, so here it is!

The car in question here is a 1990 Infiniti Q45 (G50), but this could apply to any car, with some subtle differences. (Number of pistons per caliper, size of seals, location of some bolts etc)

Things you will need:-A car jack (preferably a hydraulic jack)
A wheel brace
10mm, 12 mm, and 17mm ring spanners
A small, long,flat head screwdriver
A G-clamp
A bench vice
Clean rags
An air compressor with an air gun attachment
A can of WD40, RP7 or other water dispersant spray
Brake fluid
A container to catch dripping brake fluid
Brake caliper rebuild kit(s) (A packet of seals for each caliper)
And a bit of patience!!

First things first.... You have to take the wheel off to get to the caliper.

As a safety precaution, you should always use jackstands, and put the wheel you remove, under the body of the car, better to crush your wheel than your legs/hands.

When working on the front (as in this case), turn the steering wheel so the disc points out from the body, as this allows better access to the bolts for removal.

First, loosen both caliper bolts with a 17mm ring spanner, without completely removing either of them.

Then, using a 12mm ring spanner, take out the brake line bolt and hang the brake line into your old container.

It will continue to drip until the reservoir empties... but don't worry about that, we fix it later!

Now you can fully remove the caliper bolts and slide the caliper off of the disc.

Then, with the caliper held over the old container, push the piston(s) into the body of the caliper to push the fluid out.

Then, we go to the bench vice.Clamp the caliper like so....

(I used an old towel/rag to protect the caliper body, as I didn't have any wooden blocks lying around)

Now, we apply the G-clamp to one of the pistons like so...

Around to the back now, and the the hole where the brake line bolts into is where we apply the compressed air...

The unclamped piston will be pushed out by the compressed air. Don't apply constant pressure, do it in short bursts... otherwise your piston may go flying across the shed!!! (And no, I didn't figure this out by mistake!)

Remove the G-clamp and take the caliper out of the vice.

Put the piston to one side for now.... The rubber boot is easy to remove, just pull it out gently, and it should come free.

Using the screwdriver, pry out the o-ring seal inside the bore of the caliper like so...

Now we clean out the caliper bore, using a clean rag and the WD40.
Get it as clean as you can, especially in the grooves where the o-ring and rubber boot go (WD40 is great for cleaning, and absorbs brake fluids worst enemy, H2O).

Use the air gun on the compressor to blow out any remaining WD40.

Get your new seals ready now, and fit the new o-ring into the groove, making sure it is completely home, and not sticking out anywhere.

Make sure you have cleaned the piston with the WD40 and the clean rag, and push it back into the caliper by hand, ensuring that it is straight. If it is a little difficult to push in by hand, you can use the G-clamp, but be sure the piston is aligned correctly with the bore in the caliper.

Now to fit the rubber boot......

Start at the back of the caliper as shown, and make sure the ridge of the boot is sitting in it's groove (this is where the patience comes in, because it really likes to pop out!)

Slide your fingers over the top of the boot to push the seal in.
When you get to the top, you are likely to have the lip of the boot sitting out...

Using pressure from your fingers, assist the boot into the groove using the screwdriver, but be careful. The last thing you want to do is put a hole in your new seal!

Now it's done! Make sure the seal looks uniform and even, with no high or low spots, as this indicates that the boot seal is not in the groove somewhere around the place.

Refit the caliper back onto the car, in reverse from the removal. (Caliper bolts first, then the brake line)

Top up the brake fluid reservoir (I use DOT4 fluid for the higher temp rating)

Leave the lid off of the reservoir, and go an pump the brake pedal a few times to fill the caliper..... recheck the fluid level, and top up if needed.

Now to bleed the brakes.It's much easier with 2 people.I don't use the plastic hose and jar method, I simply open the bleed nipple (10mm spanner).......

...and get the other person to push down the pedal and hold it on the floor.
I then tighten the nipple, and get them to release the brake pedal all the way, then open the nipple, push to the floor and hold, tighten, release pedal...and so on, until I don't have air coming out nipple when the pedal is pressed.

I have always used this method, and I have had no problems with air in the lines, EVER.

Re-check the brake fluid reservoir.... top up and replace the lid

Check for any leaks from the caliper or brake line.

Then re-fit the wheel and go for a test drive.

You have now rebuilt your brake caliper by yourself!

PS: A big thanks goes out to NSR_A32 (Kenny) for finding a rebuild kit and mailing it out to me, elwesso (Wes) for the air compressor tip, and GQJay (Jay) for sending me out the caliper bolts when I found out one of mine seized. [post_title] => Q45 rebuilding brake calipers [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => rebuild-q45-brake-calipers [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 12:01:32 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 19:01:32 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [118] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1388 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Fog Light Modification

By:NISTECH

NOTE:This is for a Pathfinder / QX4, but MAY be adaptable to other Nissan models as well.

The fog lamp relay is powered through the headlamp relay, so your headlights would need to be on to power the fog lamp relay. The ground side of the relay goes through the foglamp switch then up through the headlight switch which must be switched to low beam position to supply the ground to the circuit. The fog lamps are powered directly through the fog lamp relay.

You'll need to circumvent the control circuit of the relay which has both control of power side and ground side of the fog lamp relay. You will need to cut 2 wires and add your own wires to make the circuit work.

The fog lamps will stay illuminated as long as the fog lamp switch is turned on.Meaning, even when the high beams are on the fog lamps will still be illuminated.Also, there is no battery saver function control of the fog lamps(they will not be shut off if accidentally left on by the smart entrance control unit. like they are normally).

Your VIN number will play a part in this bypass as the power supply wire from the headlamp relay to the fog lamp relay is different colors.

If the last 6 digits of your VIN are lower then 500000 then the wire is R/B (red with black stripe).If your VIN is higher than 500000 then the color is R/L (red with blue stripe).

At the fog lamp relay, remove the relay and look inside the terminal area of the relay.You will see numbers if you look very carefully.At terminal #2 you should see the power wire mentioned above.Remember you are looking at the relay upside down so be sure you match up the right terminal as the other side is the same color wire.Cut that wire about an inch from the relay connector, R/B or R/L wire.To verify you have the right wire before cutting use a voltmeter to test for power with the headlights on in that terminal. With the relay out, the other wire wont have power.

Now go to your fog lamp switch and find the Y/B (yellow with black stripe) wire and cut it about an inch from the switch.

It is strongly recommended you use a soldering iron to properly connect these wires and use either heat shrink or self adhering electrical wrap, not black electrical tape.The electrical wrap is as good as heat shrink as it completely seals the conection from moisture.

On the fog lamp Y/B wire you will be running a wire from the wire coming off the switch to a good ground under your dash. Do this by "tinning" both the wire you are adding and the Y/B wire coming off the switch. Slide your heatshrink tube onto the wire your adding and away from the heat of your iron.Solder the 2 wires together.Allow to cool slightly.Slide your heat shrink tube over the connection and shrink it.Attach the other end of the wire to a ground point under the dash, such as a body nut or bolt on either the metal behind the kick panel or the cowl near the steering column mount.

On the power wire at the relay (see color description above) prepare the joint the same you did with the ground.However this wire will be jointed into the R/Y wire at the RH headlamp relay(there are 2, either is fine as they come from the same fuse source).You will be using another piece of wire to jump the 2 wires.No need to cut the R/Y wire, just cut away about a half inch of the insulation about an inch or so from the relay."Tin" the wire quickly as to much heat will start melting the insulation, then joint it together as you did above with the other end of this wire.Using this method you wont be able to use the heat shrink tubing.Alternatively you can cut the R/Y wire and joint it like the others to use heat shrink tubing.

The other way to do this would be to just use end connectors and a scotch lock at the head lamp relay (no soldering), but using this method puts you at risk of moisture collection on the joints ultimately causing corrosion increasing current draw on the circuit and possible complete circuit failure over time.

Good luck, and have fun! [post_title] => Nissan Fog Light Modification Without Headlights [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => fog-light-without-headlights [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 17:42:30 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 00:42:30 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [119] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1389 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Y33 O2 Sensor Replacement

By:bullittandy

Just finished the O2 sensors (all 4) on my 97 Q45. Here's a heads up for others attempting the job.

WD-40 / PB Blaster MUST be used! Don't try to do anything until the sensor nuts have soaked for at least 30 minutes but the longer the better (I soaked them the night before).

The rears are easy.However, I got a little nervous about the fronts when I had to use my mini sledge hammer in order to break the rears free.

The front passenger side has been discussed in previous posts-same applies here.Using a O2 socket (crows-foot style, rented from Autozone) from the bottom of the car slip it over the sensor. Then from the top of the car in the engine bay drop a long extension into the sensor socket. I used a flex joint to get a better angle.

The front driver side was the fun one!I had trouble reaching it from any angle - top, bottom, anywhere.So I removed the master cylinder and brake booster.Do not remove the brake lines from the M/C just unbolt it from the booster and move out of the way. The length of the brake lines allows it to be moved easily.

The brake booster was a little more difficult. It is held on by 4 bolts inside the car, 2 of which are easily seen, 1 is somewhat tricky and the 4th nut (upper right from driver's seat) was very difficult.Find access any way you can.Putting this nut back on required me to tape the nut to the end of my finger!With this I was able to get it on the brake booster stud the second try.

Overall this was harder than replacing the knock sensors. But, the gas mileage increase will be worth all the pain and frustration!! [post_title] => 1997-2001 Q45 O2 Sensor Replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-o2-sensor-y33 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 11:59:23 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 18:59:23 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [120] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1390 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This is a "must-do" for any '02 Q45 owner, and can be performed by your local dealer.

By:nyc11370

https://www.nicoclub.com/Greg/itb.pdf

[post_title] => F50 (2002) Q45 Acceleration TSB [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => f50-2002-q45-tsb [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 12:00:21 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 19:00:21 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [121] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1391 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Road Trip Rules and Etiquette

By:Jesda

I've covered 20,000 miles crossing the country in various directions, and I'm about to tack on another 2,000 miles this weekend. Its time I laid down some rules and guidelines for drivers and passengers.

Drivers:
1) Know the mechanical condition of your car! There's no excuse for a breakdown. In case something does go wrong, bring a decent set of tools, a flashlight, a service manual, and water. If you're mechanically ignorant, have the vehicle inspected before leaving. Bring a full-size spare and leave the doughnut at home, if you can spare the trunk space.

2) Stop at every hole in the wall location advertised on a billboard.

3) During the day, try to eat local food or at regional chains. Save McD's for late nights when nothing is open... unless you're traveling on couch change.

4) Always overestimate fuel expenses! Your calculator may give you a cost of $200 at 26mpg. However, when you're in the middle of Montana doing 120mph, that 26 will quickly drop to 12.

5) You will not arrive as early as you expect to. You just won't. 'Budget' yourself an extra day or two, especially if your road trip is taking you to an event with a specific date.

6) Subscribe to satellite radio.

7) Bring a digital camera. Take pictures of every obscure, stupid thing in sight.

8 ) Stay with friends if possible. Save your money for souvenirs, tourist traps, and retarded little knick knacks.

9) Don't be afraid of cheap motels. Just because it costs $28 doesn't mean its any worse than a Howard Johnson (sometimes better) -- I stayed at a $120 La Quinta that had pubes in the tub and trash under the bed and sink.

With ANY motel or hotel, no matter how nice, do the following the moment you walk into your room: Pull the sheets off to check for bugs, take a whiff of the air in the room, and make sure the water pressure in the shower is decent.

10) Bring your own shampoo. Motel shampoo sucks, or sometimes it isn't provided.

11) Bring a WiFi locator tool. I use the PSP.

12) If an exit sign says "Scenic Route" or "Historic", take it.

13) Be comfortable. The people you see on road trips are people you will never see again, so don't dress to impress. In the summer, wear some cheap athletic shorts and a big, comfortable t-shirt.

14) Leave your cell phone off. Disconnect yourself from the outside world and use it only for returning voicemails or making outgoing calls (911, 411, hotels, directions, etc).

15) Be friendly to the locals and they'll be friendly to you. When you're the outsider in a small town, you aren't better than anyone, no matter how much you paid for your S-class.

Passengers:
1) You do NOT have ANY right to touch the radio or suggest changes to the music. Bring ear plugs if you hate the way the driver sings.

2) Pee at every stop, even if you don't think you need to. Do not tell the driver you need to pee at 3AM in the middle of South Dakota in the dead of winter.

3) When sightseeing on foot, the driver is still in charge. Obey the driver or buy a bus ticket.

4) Do NOT critique the driver's ability to operate a vehicle. There will be NO whining about speed.

5) Do not ask the driver to decide who gets the front seat. Figure it out for yourselves.

6) Do not use your cellphone for idle chit chat in the car. The driver would rather listen to music.

7) Do NOT use alone time in the car to divulge your deepest, darkest secrets. In the confines of an automobile, you may start to feel close to the driver and other passengers, but no one needs to hear about how you were molested by your uncle and had 'experimental' gay experiences with the local circle jerk club. Once the road trip ends, the closeness will wear off and things will return to normal; everyone will know you're a damaged, molested weirdo.

Most importantly, explore. Road trips are called adventures for a reason.

Happy motoring.

Jesda is NICOclub.com's resident crotchety immigrant, adopter of unwanted American car from the 90's, and a road trip professional. [post_title] => Road Trip Rules and Etiquette [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => road-trip-rules-and-etiquette [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:08:04 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:08:04 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [122] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1392 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Nissan 2.0 Engine Maintenance Bible

By:RED_DET

Well folks here is your guide to making your pride and joy run at optimal performance. Starting with common problems and solutions:

PROBLEM: Erratic Idle and jumping idle, some other symptoms are also: sluggish performance, real bad mileage, injector leak malfunction code, o2 sensor voltage stuck at 800 mv or so.

Affects: Sentra SE-R, NX2000

One thing you may want to check is that the idle was set correctly. The AAC valve is supposed to regulate the flow of air at idle in order to keep the engine at ~800 rpm.My 93.5 G20 used to have a quirk that disconnecting the TPS would not fully close the AAC valve as it should.I would attempt to adjust the idle per FSM instructions, but turning the idle adjust screw would not affect the idle at all because the AAC valve was still operating and keeping the idle at 750rpm.Sometime after my 60k tune-up I reset the computer which seemed to have eliminated this quirk.

The best way to see if you have this problem is to warm the car up, turn the engine off, disconnect the TPS, and start the car back up.Hopefully, the idle will be at about 750rpm.If so, disconnect the AAC valve while the car is still running.If the idle stays constant, your idle is set correctly.If the engine stalls or the rpm's drop, your idle may be set incorrectly.

Another cause of poor idle is exhaust gas recirculating back into your intake.A faulty EGR is the most widely known culprit but there is another source that can potentially choke your engine, the PAIR(AIV). This is that EGR looking device mounted on the front of the engine close to the radiator.It's whole purpose is to allow fresh air into the exhaust stream at idle.On a stock set-up it takes this air from the intake just past the air filter.The PAIR(AIV) has reed valves in it that are supposed to allow air to be sucked into the exhaust stream and prevent exhaust from flowing back into the intake.Unfortunately, the reed valves on my unit are warped due to the heat of the engine and don't prevent backflow of exhaust gas.

If you want to check the PAIR(AIV), open your filter box while the car is idling.There should be a port on the left hand side of the upper half of the box.You should be able to feel a vacuum on that port if it's functioning right. If not, you can feel puffs of air coming out of the port, and it will sound just like an exhaust leak.

PROBLEM: Fuel pump failure, causing the car to be inoperable.

Affects: Sentra SE-R 91-93

All US built 1991 and 1992 Sentras (B13)
All US built 1993 Sentras through serial number 730388
[the serial number is the trailing digits on your VIN plate]

"Nissan has assigned Campaign Number 93-U3005 to this Campaign"

Dealer Responsibility:
It is the Dealer's responsibility to make the correction listed in the Bulletin on each vehicle within the affected VIN range of this Campaign, except those that have had a fuel pump replaced after 1-1-1993, which enters the Service Department, regardless of where it was purchased.This includes vehicles purchased from private parties or presented by transient (tourist) owners and vehicles in Dealer inventory (new or used).

The dealership can bill Nissan for parts and 0.7 hours of service time.

Two fuel pumps may have been used:JECS brand, gold in color, no replacement needed;Bosch [garbage] aluminum color - replace it.Both have the manufacturer imprinted on the case as well.

If the Fuel Pump is a BOSCH type, remove and replace it with a new, countermeasure BOSCH pump, P/N 17042-Q5601BC.

PROBLEM: Surge and hesitation between 1500 and 3000 rpm

Affects: All '91 - '93 SR20DE (Sentra SE-R, NX2000 and G20)

If the usual tune-up procedure doesn't take care of the problem, disconnect the EGR valve and plug the vacuum hose leading to it from the BPT valve. Take the car out for a ride, making sure to drive in the same manner that typically causes the car to surge and hesitate. If the problem is no longer present, chances are good that you're experiencing the infamous "EGR Problem".

Remove both vacuum hoses from BPT (right-most disk shaped object behind valve cover). Remove the two philips screws on its top. Push the BPT back toward the firewall. You should see a rubber hose running between the bottom of the BPT and a metal tube. Remove the BPT and rubber hose from the metal tube and set them aside.

This metal tube is connected to the EGR passage and, ultimately, to the exhaust manifold. Exhaust manifold pressure, via this metal tube, operates the BPT valve which regulates the vacuum to, and the opening of, the EGR valve. The less exhaust manifold pressure - the more the BPT valve opens - the more the EGR valve opens. The more exhaust manifold pressure - the less the BPT valve opens - the less the EGR valve opens. Carbon may block this metal tube which causes the BPT to not operate properly (if at all) which causes the EGR valve to operate uncontrollably.

Wait until the car is cold, then spray some carb and choke cleaner into the metal tube to soften up the blockage. Used a stiff piece of wire (a long chunk of 8 gauge wire left over from the big car stereo install will do) to ream out the tube. (*Note: DO THIS WHEN THE CAR IS COLD!! Carb cleaner and a hot exhaust don't mix well.*) Take note of how far you have pushed the wire into the tube before you pull it out. Lay the wire along side the BPT tube to gauge how far down the tube you have gone. When you've pushed the wire far enough down the tube to have reached the EGR tube it intersects, you've probably removed all of the blockage(s)

Wait about 10 minutes for the chemicals to evaporate. Start the car and hold your finger in front of the metal tube. You should feel a steady stream of exhaust coming from it. If not, try cleaning it again.

While you're waiting for the chemicals to evaporate, now would be a good time to remove your EGR valve and clean the carbon deposits from the plunger and seat. I find that the carbon build up eventually gets bad enough to hold the EGR valve slightly open. This changes your base idle speed (TPS disconnected) and can also cause a rough and wandering idle as well as possibly causing your car to stall when you push in the clutch.

Reassemble the system, hook your EGR valve back up and take your car out for a ride. You should find that the problem is gone and your local smog police will give you an award for being a law-abiding smog free citizen once more.

I make checking the metal tube and cleaning the EGR valve a part of every tune-up and/or oil change.

red arrow EGR valve, yellow arrow BPT valve.

TPS Voltage Adjustment

Imagine that this picture is what the back of your TPS wiring harness looks like as it's plugged into the TPS:

-----
|A|
--------
|B||
--------
|C|
-----

What you need to do is get a DVM and hook the positive lead through the back of the harness into "B" and hook the negative lead through the back of the harness into "A". It's easiest if you straighten a couple of paper clips (I used my wife's sewing needles...she nearly killed me) and shove them into the openings and hook onto 'em with alligator clips, but *DON'T* let them touch. Turn the ignition on (don't start the car) and check the voltage between "A" (-) and "B" (+). It should be between 0.45 and 0.55V. If it's not, you'll need to loosen (but not remove) the two screws or bolts that hold the TPS to the throttle body. Rotate the TPS until you get the proper voltage and tighten the screws, making sure it doesn't go out of adjustment when you tighten it down. As a final check, open the throttle all of the way. You should read around 4V. If so, great! If not, uh...my condolences.

Ford guys adjust the TPS to "fool" the computer into thinking the throttle is opened farther than it actually is. It supposedly works, but it never made much sense to me. It seems that the ECU would think that WOT is achieved at a certain voltage (like 4V on ours) and going farther than that doesn't do any good. It would also seem that if the TPS is "turned up" too high, the ECU would never see the correct voltage for closed throttle (like ~0.5V on ours) and the idle would be all screwy. But they claim it works and claim to have back-to-back 1/4 mi runs to back it up. It sounds like a good question for Jim or Clark at JWT.

MAF Sensor Grounding

The MAF sensor is located just past the air intake. You'll need to pull back the rubber cover to expose three wires. On mine, the outer two were orange, the middle one is white. The middle pin is where we need to get a voltage reading from (with the engine idling). Take the positive lead of the voltmeter and make contact with the middle wire. The negative lead should be pressed to one of the ground connectors on the engine block, near the firewall, right behind the fuel injectors. You might have to look hard to see them, just look for a bolt with several black wires running to it. Took me a while to spot it myself, several vacuum hoses in the way...

The voltage read should be less than 9mv (.009v), if it is above this value, the sensor needs to be regrounded. To do this, a wire needs to be run from the middle pin to the ground lug. You'll need to remove the connector from the MAF to get a good angle on it. On either side of the connector is a small opening for a small flat blade screwdriver. There is a wire that runs around the connector to hold it in place, you need to pry this wire outwards, then move the connector back a bit. Do one side, then the other, and it should pop right off. I'd never seen this type of fastener before, once you have it off you'll see what I mean.

You'll want to solder a new wire to the middle pin, make sure you get a good connection. Then, run the other end to the ground lug. If you want to do the job right, you'll want to get a connector from Radio Shack or other electronics store that has a ring that you can crimp the wire to. I don't remember the size of the bolt, so I'm no help there. I just looped my wire around the bolt twice and put it back on. I may go back and fix it up nice some other time.

Once the sensor is regrounded, the voltage should drop significantly. Mine was at around 11mv, after the fix it went down to less than 2mv.

Advancing The Timing

# Warm up engine to regular operating temp, and ensure idle speed stays below 1000 rpm.
# Run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes under no-load [in neutral, no accessories on]. Race engine 2 or 3 times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed. [this heats up the oxygen sensor so it is working]
# Turn off engine and disconnect throttle position sensor (TPS) harness connector. [It's on the side of the throttle body facing the firewall - driver side of the engine, down low and past the brake master-cylinder]
# Start engine. Race engine (2 - 3000 rpm) under no-load, the run at idle speed. [You may have trouble keeping it running with the throttle sensor disconnected. Depending on where your timing is set, it may stall. If so have someone sit in the car and press the gas *very slightly* to keep it running. Don't rev it up or you will not get an accurate timing reading/adjustment. Keep it at idle speed, about 800 rpm]
# Check ignition timing with a timing light. It should be 15 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center. [The timing mark at the extreme left (counter-clockwise) is zero degrees. There are lines at 5, 10 and 20 degrees to the right of it. There is a wide paint mark from 13 to 15 degrees, which the factory probably set yours to. Eyeball 17 degrees between the marks and that's what you want.]

From the 1991 Technical Bulletins, Beginning with April 1991 production,
the ignition timing mating mark has been changed as shown below.
NEW marks at -5,0,5,10,13,white paint,15,20 B.T.D.C..
OLD marks at 0,5,10,15,20 B.T.D.C..

#If not, slightly loosen two bolts holding the distributor, and twist it [toward the front of the engine to retard, toward the cabin to advance] to obtain the desired timing. [Recheck the setting after tightening the bolts!].
#Shut off engine and reconnect throttle sensor.

That's it. The trick is to set it to the extreme limit of the specification - 17 degrees. You'll get noticeably better throttle response there. Advanced timing helps power, but can cause knocking or pinging. The EFI computer *should* "hear" this and back off the timing to prevent engine damage, at which point it may run worse than if you had kept the timing conservative. Mine didn't benefit from going beyond 17. I always run 91 octane or better gas too, which lets you push the timing farther without trouble.

*you need to rev the motor past 3000 rpm 3 times for the motor to lock the timing (after disconnecting the TPS)*

[post_title] => Sentra SE-R, NX2000, G20 Tune-up and Maintenance Bible [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => sentra-ser-nx2000-g20-tuneup-maintenance [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:08:15 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:08:15 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [123] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1393 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Maxima Y-pipe and cat installation By: beancooker 1. Remove all heat shields (10mm wrench). 2. Remove O2 sensors. 3.Spray penetrating oil on all bolts to be taken out. YOU WILL NEED A PIVOTING ADAPTER FOR YOUR SOCKET WRENCH. Remove 3 bolts on front bank, 3 bolts on rear bank and 2 bolts on cat. 14mm wrench Remove hanger 12mm wrench. 4. When all bolts are removed, take a 2x4 block and hold it to the body of car directly beside stock y-pipe at the rear bank. Take a 2 foot pry bar and put bar on top of stock y-pipe and under 2x4 block. Lift up on pry bar (with a lot of force) and stock y-pipe will pop out. This is the stocker removed! 5.Put crush gaskets on new Y-pipe. Put rear bank up and use 1 bolt to hold rear in place. Front will need some convincing to go in. The flange will rest against the front bank down pipe. Tap (convince) with a hammer until protruding flange pops into down tube. 6. Replace 3 front bolts and 3 rear bolts. NOTE. There is a shield between the oil pan and the new location of the front O2 sensor. Remove this shield (it won't be used) and put bolts back in holes. 7. Replace O2 sensors. See how California emissions have a lot of O2 sensors: 8. Put new cat in place and put gaskets where they should go. Bolt tight. Put new hanger in place. 9. Start car and check for exhaust leaks. If God graces you, as He did me, you'll have none. Shut off car and remove from jackstands. 10. Pull car outside and start. Let run for about 10 minutes and listen for leaks. (swelling and shrinking of fresh pipes can cause a leak if everything's not perfect. If you have leaks, fix them. 11. ENJOY!!! Summary. The horsepower gains are totally worth it. I don't butt dyno any mods, but there are noticable gains. The gains are from 2500RPM and up. I think I lost a little power off the line. I used a Warpspeed Y-pipe and Magnaflow cat. The Warpspeed Y-pipe is only 60% the cost of a Cattman Y-pipe and are exactly the same. I compared it with a Cattman at a local shop. If you've already replaced your muffler (like me) you're screwed. There are no "bees in a can" sound, but with a Magnaflow performer XL muffler the throaty V-8 sound goes away. I'm embarrassed/humiliated/ashamed to say, but my poor Max sounds like a Civic with a fart can. It's loud as hell and has that annoying pop to the sound. However it is faster and that's what I wanted, so I guess I can deal with it for now. NOTE:The rear bank precat can be replaced with a straight pipe and you're fine. If you replace the front bank precat with a straight pipe you'll throw a code. If you "rod out" the catalyst in the front bank precat, you'll throw a code. The good news, the precats flow at 450 CFM. The high flow cat I put on the car only flows at 700 CFM so unequal backpressure should not be an issue. Most of the backpressure encountered will be at rear cat, and at 700 CFM, I'll probably have to do a few more mods to push that much exhaust. [post_title] => 5th-Generation Maxima Y-pipe and Cat installation [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 5th-gen-maxima-y-pipe-and-cat-installation [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-02-27 16:01:56 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-02-27 23:01:56 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [124] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1394 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>

1991-1994 Nissan 240sx

Overview: Ever since I finished my KA-T project, I've had an issue with hood fitment. Basically, the turbo manifold left the turbo too high, and the intake manifold left the throttle body too high. NISMO motor mounts only exacerbated the problem, leaving me with no clearance between the hood and engine. I modified a set of OEM motor mounts, cutting out the center section and welding the two interior plates together. However, OEM mounts don't hold up well to BIG horsepower. See below:

CA mounts, contrary to popular opinion, are no shorter. What to do? With more than 2" of space between the pan and the crossmember, there was only one solution - Drop the motor lower in the cradle. So, out with the old mounts and time to make my own. Tools: - Wire brush - Grinder or Dremel with cutting wheel Materials: - (2) plastic cups (the cheap kind) - (1) 1-lb container of Flexane 94 (order online) - (2) 4" 12x1.25 allthread rods (Ace Hardware has them) - (4) motor mount nuts (or any other 12x1.25 nuts) - (2) flat washers - Brake parts cleaner Procedure: First of all, take your 2 pieces of allthread and thread the nuts and washer onto them, making sure they're centered on the rod like so:

Tighten the two bolts against each other with two wrenches.Then, take your grinding wheel or Dremel and cut some notches in the washers. Don't worry about neatness, you want them to be all jagged and nasty-looking:

Next, break out the cheap plastic cups.T he size of cup will determine the diameter of your motor mount, so choose wisely. Or, just grab the cheapest crap they have.

Make a hole in the bottom center of each cup, slightly smaller than the allthread rod, and thread the rod through it from the inside:

Make a mark on the cup the height that you want the motor mount to be.You can see my marks in the pics above. Find a "stand" to set the cups in, so the threaded rod can be suspended - I found that a spray paint can cap works perfect. Now it's time to mix the Flexane. The main ingredient is clear, and the catalyst, or hardening agent, is black. Follow the directions on the label, it's approximately a 3:1 (Flexane to hardener) ratio. Mix ONLY the amount you need, because you can't save the mixed product. It hardens. Once your mixing is done according to the instructions, pour the Flexane mixture into the cups. Try not to get it on the threads.

Now, find a warm place to set the concoction. It doesn't really stink, so if you live someplace cold, you can set it in the house. It's best to let it sit 24 hours, or you can let it sit 12 hours and then put it in the oven at 150 degrees for 12 hours (which is what I did). Once it cools, you can tear away the plastic cup. The finished product is cool, functional, and cheap.

Flexane has a resiliency somewhat near polyurethane, and you can experiment with different mixtures if you want it softer or harder.These should have great vibration dampening, while retaining the rigidity of a solid motor mount. But they're clearly superior to the OEM mounts, as they won't oxidize (like rubber) or deteriorate (like rubber). As far as strength, it has a hardness of 97A (Shore D scale) and a tensile strength of 2800 psi. Even at 400hp, these mounts won't see that kind of load. As far as heat resistance, OEM mounts begin to degrade at 160 degrees F. I added heat shielding to mine, but I can't imagine them seeing 180 degrees consistently. At idle, it's a little rougher than the Nismo mounts were, but nowhere near as rough as solid mounts.The Flexane provides some nice (but firm) dampening. This project cost a grand total of $56, if you count the $50 for the Flexane. EDIT: Ten years have passed since these were made. They're still holding strong, and the car is well over 600whp now. [post_title] => Make Your Own Motor Mounts [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => make-your-own-motor-mounts-heres-how [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-11-21 11:31:14 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-11-21 18:31:14 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [125] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1395 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => NISSAN SPEAKER SIZE LIST (alphabetical) You can find good deals on car speakers at Amazon.

By: Simmsled 200SX 1984-1998 2 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck 1984-1988 H.B. 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Side 240SX 1989-1993 2 Door 4x6 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck 1989-1993 H.B. 4x6 F. Door 4x6 R. Side 1994-1998 2 Door 6.5 F. Door (some also have 3/4in tweeters in A-pillars) 6.5 R. Deck (oversized 6.5) 300ZX 1984-1989 2 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Side 1990-1996 2 Door 6.5 F. Door 5.25 R. Side (with Bose system 3.89 inches [odd size]) Altima 1993-1997 4 Door 5x7 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck (oversized 6.5) [[note...6x9 with factory CD]] 1998-1999 4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck Axxess 1990-1992 S.W. 5.25 F. Door 5.25 R. Side Frontier 1998-1999 6.5 F. Door Xterra 2000-2002 6.5 F. Door (might have 1 inch tweeter in door as well) 6x9 R. Deck Maxima 1985-1988 4 Door 5.25 F. Door 5.25 R. Deck 1989-1994 4 Door 4x6 F. Door 6x9 R. Deck 1995-1999 4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck 5 gen and 5.5 gen Front = It is 6.5 in the front door panels with 1 inch tweater in the A-pillar Rear = 6.5 in the rear door and 6.5 woofer in the rear deck. All powered by a bose amp. NX 1991-1994 2 Door 4x6 F. Door 6.5 R. Side Pathfinder 1986-1993 6.5 F. Door 6x9 R. Side 1994-1995 5x7 F. Door 5x7 R. Side 1996-1999 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Door Pick-up 1980-1986 5.25 K. Panel 1986-1998 6.5 F. Door Pulsar 1983-1986 H.B. 4 Dash 6.5 R. Side 1987-1990 H.B. 6.5 F. Door 5.25 R. Side Quest 1993-1998 5x7 F. Door 5x7 R. Side Sentra 1987-1999 2-4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck Stanza 1982-1986 2 Door 5.25 F. Door 5.25 R. Side 1987-1989 4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6x9 R. Deck 1987-1989 H.B. 6.5 F. Door 6x9 R. Side 1990-1992 4 Door 5.25 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck [post_title] => Complete Nissan Speaker Sizing Guide [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => complete-nissan-speaker-sizing-guide [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:08:47 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:08:47 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [126] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1396 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => INFINITI SPEAKER SIZES By: Simmsled FX35/ FX45- 2004+ Dash - Left, Center, and Right 2.5 tweeters (one in each location) F. Door 6.5 R. Door 6.5 D-Pillars 2.5 tweeters Under Cargo Floor - 5.25 woofers (1 pair) G20 - 1991-1996 4 Door 4x6 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck I30 -1995-1996 4 Door 6.5 F. Door 6.5 R. Deck J30 - 1992-1996 4 Door 5x7 F. Door ---A-Pillar tweeter 1 inch or 3/4 inch 6x9 R. Deck M30 -1990 4 F. Door 6x9 R. Deak Q45 -1990-1991 4 Fronts in plastic speaker pods. It is possible to go as big as 8s with beefy reinforcement and shallow magnet depth. (some could be 6.5's) 6x9 R. Deck Q45 -1992-1996 4 Door (94-96 have 1' tweeters in A pillars) 6.5 F. Door (some could be 4s) 6x9 R. Deck Q45 -1997-2001 Front door: 6.5 inch Rear door: 5.25 inch Rear deck: 6.5 inch QX4 - 2003 6.5's F. Door + 1inch tweeter in A-Pillar 6.5's R. Door [post_title] => Complete Infiniti Speaker Sizing Guide [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => complete-infiniti-speaker-sizing-guide [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 00:09:05 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 07:09:05 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [127] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1397 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => HISTORY OF OBD By: x240xdrifter In the early ‘60s, the state of California mandated laws that required emission control systems to be in cars to help reduce the smog problem. Once the Government caught word of this, they expanded the idea so the whole country would have to require OBD (on-board diagnostics) by 1968. Since then the future of vehicle repair has changed for the better. As the American public began to realize that it was time to set standards in aspiration to help the environment, Congress passed the first Clean Air Act in 1970 which was the foundation of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). In the following decades, the EPA began to set the baseline for emissions. For example, the EPA required all cars to have catalytic converter by 1975. Most automotive manufacturers started to install computer systems and data-logging sensors to help control the emissions. In aid to these systems, manufacturers also introduced electronically controlled fuel injection and ignition systems. These systems were introduced to help maximize engine efficiency and performance while maintaining minimum emissions. In 1982, the EPA required that all cars to be produced with engine monitoring systems. These systems were used to monitor the engine controls and sensors. If a problem is picked up by the monitoring system, a check engine light within the dash would illuminate. A benefit of this system is that auto manufacturers could constitute their own communications guidelines and error code definitions. A common way to retrieve these codes was to count the number of blinks the check engine light made. On-board diagnostics (OBD) was introduced in 1985. OBD was formulated to revolutionize the monitoring systems used beforehand. Eventually most cars and light trucks were equipped with this new system by 1988. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) designed a standard connector plug also know as a Data Link Connector as well a set of test signals to go along with the system. The EPA applied this new technology to make the servicing of the vehicles easier. In 1996, SAE introduced their second generation of On-Board Diagnostics, formally known as OBD-II. The goal of the new system was to have new error codes known as Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) that would be universal to all vehicles. These codes were also designed to be read by any OBD-II scan tool. The codes start with one letter and four numbers, for example P7890. Manufacturers were also allowed to add their own codes pertaining to their own models on top of the required ones. This system was soon adopted by the Government which required all vehicles to be manufactured with OBD-II beginning January 1st, 1996. On Board Diagnostics has come a long way since the idea was contemplated back in the early 1960’s. It’s amazing to see how a small idea that initially only pertained to California State laws all because of the smog issue grew into a nationwide requirement. The OBD system is great because it has proven over time how valuable it is not only to the environment but to the technicians as well. This system has greatly reduced emissions and diagnostic time. [post_title] => The History of On-Board Diagnostics [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => the-history-of-on-board-diagnostics [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 14:37:44 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 21:37:44 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [128] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1398 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => All Infiniti Sunroof Motor Adjustments / Repairs By:Q451990 Overview If your sunroof is having trouble working as far as moving front to back, this may help you.Usually, the tilt function works fine.It won't appear to jam, or be off the track - and with even a small amount of assistance it will work fine. The motor will not sound like it's stressed as if something were jammed. There was a Technical Service Bulletin issued on this matter:ITB90-037. Clutch Slipping in the Sunroof Motor - The clutch preload is not within specification. The motor can be heard; however the sunroof lid will not open or close without assistance. The lid stops at various positions. The TSB says that a "countermeasure" motor with "improved clutch manufacture" was implemented from 06/20/90 forward (VIN JNKNG01C*LM011735 and newer). The TSB says that the solution is to replace the motor assuming that there aren't broken guides causing binding, or the sunroof lid isn't mis-aligned. Don't despair, it's a relatively easy fix. Here's a picture of the side of the motor facing downward when it's attached to the car.

Here's a picture of the top side of the motor that feeds the sunroof cables.

The red arrows are pointing to the adjustment for the clutch. The nut has a washer that is bent up to prevent the nut from turning on the keyed shaft. To adjust the clutch: 1 - Bend the washer back to the flat position. 2 - Mark the current nut position relative to the flat part of the bolt by scratching it. 3 - Hold the bolt in place using an allen wrench on the other side. 4 - Turn the nut clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn. 5 - Bend the washer up to hold the nut in place. In my case 1/4 turn was enough to fix the problem. It's important to be sure that the motor slipping is the cause of your problems. In my case the motor was running fine, but it just wouldn't move the roof occasionally. With only a slight bit of help, the roof would start moving again and finish its cycle. Adjusting the torque upward on a roof assembly that's binding or just needs lubrication could cause damage to the very expensive and difficult-to-replace sunroof cable assembly! Another tip... make sure that you only remove and reinstall the motor with the roof in the closed position. More sunroof repair issues: If you look in the picture, the limit switches are on the left. Does your motor go right on past the stop point to the "tilt open" position, or it just stops in a slightly wrong position? If it's just not parking at exactly right spot, you can adjust it using the allen screw that the red arrow is pointing to in the first picture - that can even be done only removing the lighting/switch cluster without pulling the finisher. If it's going straight on to the "tilt open" position, it's possible that the motor was installed at the wrong point in it's cycle during a prior repair. If so you'll have to pull the finisher around the visors and remove the motor after getting the roof set to the point that you want it to be when it's closed. Then you can cycle the motor backward, forward to the first stop, and reinstall. I know all of this is confusing to read, but it'll make more sense after you have the motor removed and see how it works using the switch to cycle the motor. Also the TSB mentions that some of the early Q's, up to 01/15/1990 DOM, and VIN JNKNG01C*LM007337 had possible limit switch issues... In either case, cycling the motor when it's not mounted back to the closed (but not tilt position) may help. [post_title] => All Infiniti Sunroof Motor Adjustment / Repair [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => all-infiniti-sunroof-motor-adjustment-repair [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2011-03-13 23:10:35 [post_modified_gmt] => 2011-03-14 06:10:35 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [129] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1400 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in discussions between motorheads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than the advertising hype. Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This information is available to the public through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I have compiled a list of the most popular premium oils so that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data base. This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of a motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash, and % zinc. Viscosity is a measure of the "flowability" of an oil. More specifically, it is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing stress dependent on flow, and then to offer continued resistance to flow. Thicker oils generally have a higher viscosity, and thinner oils a lower viscosity. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and lose film strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm. The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use. Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown. Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F. Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F. % sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content. % zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti-wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling. Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc 20W-50 AMSOIL (old) 136 482 -38 [post_title] => The Essential Guide To Choosing the Right Motor Oil [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => the-essential-guide-to-motor-oils [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-07-08 22:25:42 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-07-09 05:25:42 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [130] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1401 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => J30 Knock Sensors By: Wes Stinson A common problem that has plagued many Nissan and Infiniti vehicles is problem with the knock sensors (also called KS). Bad KS will not throw a CEL (Check Engine Light). Symptoms include loss or poor acceleration and can also cause bucking/jerking problems. Generally, knock sensors do not cause the vehicle to stall or idle rough, if you are experiencing that it is most likely something different. To check and see if you have bad knock sensors, you must remove your ECU and check the trouble codes. This is the easiest way to diagnose, because if your knock sensors are even questionable it will throw a code in the ECU. It is outlined in the article below how to check ECU codes. Knock sensor code is #34. Of course, if you do not feel comfortable doing this you can take your vehicle to any Nissan or Infiniti dealership or specialty shop and they can scan the codes. If you have a post 96 J30 you can take it to any shop that has a code scanner (most shops have these) and they can determine if it is the knock sensors. Autozone also scans diagnostic codes for free. https://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=60332 If you find out you have bad knock sensors, you must remove the intake manifold to replace them. J30’s have one (1) knock sensor. It is generally recommended that you replace its harness as well, as the connectors and wires become brittle over time. The good news is that all knock sensors on basically every Nissan and Infiniti vehicle uses the same knock sensor, part number 22060-300P0. Many times you can go to eBay and type in “Nissan knock” and get them from $60-$90. Dealership prices are usually about $120-$150 per knock sensor. [post_title] => Replacing Infiniti J30 Knock sensors [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => j30-knock-sensors [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 12:27:20 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 19:27:20 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [131] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1402 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Q45 Knock Sensors By: Wes Stinson A common problem that has plagued many Nissan and Infiniti vehicles is problems with the knock sensors (also called KS). Bad KS will not throw a CEL (Check Engine Light). Symptoms include loss or poor acceleration and can also cause bucking/jerking problems. Generally, knock sensors do not cause the vehicle to stall or idle rough, if you are experiencing that it is most likely something different. To check and see if you have bad knock sensors, you must remove your ECU and check the trouble codes. This is the easiest way to diagnose, because if your knock sensors are even questionable it will throw a code in the ECU. It is outlined in the article below how to check ECU codes. Knock sensor code is #34. Of course, if you do not feel comfortable doing this you can take your vehicle to any Nissan or Infiniti dealership or specialty shop and they can scan the codes. If you have a post 96 Q45 you can take it to any shop that has a code scanner (most shops have these) and they can determine if it is the knock sensors. Autozone also scans diagnostic codes for free. https://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=60332 If you find out you have bad knock sensors, you must remove the intake manifold to replace them. Q45’s have one (2) knock sensors. It is generally recommended that you replace its harness as well, as the connectors and wires become brittle over time. The good news is that all knock sensors on basically every Nissan and Infiniti vehicle uses the same knock sensor, part number 22060-300P0. Many times you can go to eBay and type in “Nissan knock” and get them from $60-$90. Dealership prices are usually about $120-$150 per knock sensor. [post_title] => Installing Infiniti Q45 Knock Sensors [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-knock-sensors [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 12:09:16 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 19:09:16 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [132] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1411 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => If your airbag light on your 90-96 Q45 or similar year Infiniti vehicle is blinking, chances are it has been inadvertently been set into self diagnosis mode.It does not indicate a problem with the airbag system.Unplugging the battery will NOT clear the self diagnosis status.

To do this procedure, turn the vehicle on (engine not started) with the drivers side door open.Within 10 seconds of doing that, press the drivers side door switch more than 10 times within those 10 seconds.If you did the procedure correctly, the airbag light should go off.If it does not go off, it means there is a fault with the airbag system.

[post_title] => 1990-1996 Q45 Airbag Light Blinking [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => q45-airbag-light-blinking [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2012-07-06 20:30:59 [post_modified_gmt] => 2012-07-07 03:30:59 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [133] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1416 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By:Moyea History: Did you say I have a Skyline transmission? Jatco being a leader in import transmissions for years, have made transmission for about every Nissan (and other JDM) cars on the market today. The links explain it better than I can: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A...ssion http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L...sions Let’s get to the technical: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/...n.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torqueconverter.htm Mechanically speaking the M/T is the better of the two. A/T uses several smaller clutches, gear sets, bands, and other crap to work. Very heavy and very complicated. As opposed to the beefy, manly M/T gears and clutch. M/T's can take a hell of a beating under load but to a point. In this respect your A/T will most likely not outlast the M/T but even the stock M/T is not built for the stress we put on our cars. OEM A/Ts and M/Ts are built for the daily drivers often using modulators, resistors, or boosters to ease the shifting of gears. A/Ts are especially victim to this due to the torque converter, Transmission Control Unit (TCU the A/T brain), Valve body, solenoids, resistors, etc. The factory didn't even come close to the potential of quality components and as you can see their are many things you need to upgrade. The cost of these upgrades are easily twice of M/T upgrades. Don’t be discouraged because the results can be twice that of an M/T. The Slowmatic: Did you know the fastest 300zx in the country is an A/T? The perceived slowness of the A/T is mainly due to a few culprits: - Mechanical > Torque converter (TC) and valve body (VB) - Electrical > Transmission computer (TCU) - FLUID!!!!!!!!!! There are other things but these are the easiest and cheapest to upgrade. OEM TCs are the weak point.Replacing this unit with one built right and with a higher stall speed is common. This is a matter of preference and application though. http://www.converter.com/q1.htm and http://www.importperformancetr...shtml ...are both good sources. Simply stated, aftermarket TCs provide better acceleration and higher power to ground output. The Valve body is basically the heart, not the brain as some people call it, responsible for the hydraulic systems of the A/T. This is a very complicated system dealing with pumps, valves, fluid pressure, etc. In short, OEM A/T VBs don’t do their job as efficiently as an aftermarket unit. A good unit can improve shifts, durability, and fluid transfer to name a few things. The TCU is the brain of your A/T! The TCU is essentially the same as the ECU/ECM for your car. It takes in various inputs ranging from vehicle speed/rpm to fluid temp. The OEM TCU is usually set to allow comfortable shifts and low torque output (compared to what it can do). This is where the A/T beats out the M/T. For me to make an adjustment to the vehicles transmission on an M/T, would require mechanical changes usually involving removing the tranny and adjusting gear ratios. A/T requires much less work for adjustment. With an aftermarket TCU I can adjust every aspect of my transmission all on a laptop. I can change shift points, line pressure, coolers, trans brakes, lockup, etc.This provides infinite possibilities for transmission control. And when I say total tranny control I mean everything, even manual shifting. This by far the best reason to stick with automatics. It’s also the second most expensive thing to upgrade. Fluid is by far the most important thing in the A/T. Just like oil is the life blood of your engine, ATF is the same for your tranny. ATF is needed for everything your A/T operates, low ATF or oxidization means no line pressure and no lubrication. This means your clutches won’t lock up right or worse yet break. This is the first thing and cheapest to upgrade on an A/T. Just like motor oil, not all ATF is created equal. Synthetic is they way to go here because it provides a much higher resistance to oxidization and heat. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/atf.aspx Tips and facts: Did you know 4RE401A is the most widely used transmission in the Nissan line up? Where to start? Change the fluid, gasket, and filter. Some times the filter cannot be replaced, usually not the case, but with a good cleaning (parts cleaner) and having the fluid flushed (twice) it’s a good start. Check or ask to inspect the fluid and filter removed from the car. This is a good indication to mechanical problems. Metal parts, shavings are signs that the transmission will need to be rebuilt in the future, for now keep on trucking. Next step is to get a temp gauge. http://www.autometer.com/cat_g...sid=4 Being able to monitor the abuse you’re putting on the A/T is crucial, I would never race a car without some sort of monitoring device. (Tip: You can use an oil pressure gauge to monitor ATF pressure too/ not needed if you have an aftermarket TCU which has an output for it). Then get a tranny cooler, preferably one with a fan mounted to it, I found this out after I had already bought one without. After some hard runs or drifting ATF heats up, the fan allows you to maintain temps at low speeds or idle. But any cooler is better than nothing, the stock cooler is mounted on or in the radiator which doesn't help to bring temps down. The best place to put the aftermarket cooler is in front of the radiator. (or on the hood ). Shifter is next. I have yet to find aftermarket shifters for the 4RE401A but if you own a domestic your in heaven. http://www.bmracing.com/index....cat=2 Three types to work with ratchet, gate, detent. The type in the 4RE401A is a detent but don’t quote me on that. The key thing to look for is reverse lock out, preventing you from killing yourself. I prefer a ratchet style because it works like a sequential shifter on M/Ts, every pull of the shifter changes gears then returns the shifter back up. This is very sick! Once again you have now taken away one of the main reason people switch to M/Ts. And yes.....you can downshift. Tip: You can use your stock stick to shift but become very familiar with the gears and the rpm in which you can upshift and downshift (it’s in the FSM). 1=1st, 2=2nd, D w/o OD= 3rd, OD=4th. Don’t be confused with M/Ts 5th is like OD for them. DO NOT hold your finger on the shift button you may push it into neutral or reverse!!! Only press the shift release when downshifting, it will slide freely when shifting up to Drive. After that it’s really up to you. I think aftermarket VBs and then a tranny build should be done in that order. The reasoning behind this is if you do blow your tranny it will most likely be one of the clutches or bands so you can salvage your aftermarket VB and put it in another A/T. Then when you get the money for a bulletproof A/T rebuild your all set. Transbrakes are also something to consider. I threw the torque converter last because selecting a TC is matched with the output of the engine (amongst other things). If you plan on putting out 400lbs/tq you don’t want to buy a TC that’s built for 250. So you can wait until your finished with the power adders or just get a slightly higher stall TC (500 1000 more rpm over stock). Mind over Matter: TCU vs. Man http://www.visualexpert.com/Re....html (Do NOT Try This) How many times have you been laying down rubber with your boys and every run you do you best them? I hear all kinds of excuses like "I missed a gear" or "You got lucky off the line". The truth is this; a comparable M/T cannot shift as fast as the A/T. I know some M/T guys can relate to this fact. Driver reaction time and accuracy is something that plagues the M/T world, footwork is a desirable and valuable skill. A/Ts do not face this problem because of the TCU taken' only a fraction of a second to change gears. DVD Extras and Theory: "If you’re just going to swap it, can I have it"? The 4R01 is hands down the most available import tranny out there. Just think back at all the time you went to the Pick N' Pull. So what does this mean for you? Options!!! If you burn out your tranny who cares?! There’s like 600 of them at the yard going for as low as $300. There is always somebody trying to get rid of them for swaps.And you can just swap aftermarket parts to another tranny. Here's some theory for you: Did you know your A/T is in the SR20DET? In fact, the Silvia A/Ts are actually beefier than yours because of additional clutch plates and higher stall to accommodate the turbo. In fact, it’s in the 300zx too, wake up! Can these be interchanged or their parts? Domestics can why not imports? With simple modification (crossmember, drive shaft) I think 240's can see a whole new light. Now this is just speculation because I can’t find a tranny guy who knows what I'm talking about. Also, in theory, since you share the same A/T as a Silvia engine swaps can be easier and cheaper. You can chose one of two things keep your tranny and replace the engine or swap for a beefy SR20DET A/T, either way an aftermarket TCU can adjust for any tranny change. Motorsports: Drag! And that's it? NO! I'm not going to make a long spiel about this because I think the point is made. A/Ts can do ANYTHING an M/T can! This means drift, drag, road, circle, and rally. Did you know Formula 1 uses a semi automatic? The gearing and clutch (no clutch pedal) are similar to an M/T but the TCU and hydraulics are like an A/T. It is the perfect fusion of transmissions. Truth of the matter is transmissions are evolving all the time eventually the traditional M/T will be completely outdated and the A/T is not far behind. SM/T is the future! http://www.autoracing1.com/Mar...1.htm http://www.drifting.com/forums...pp=15 A/Ts have all the potential of an M/T at twice the cost. That's it! [post_title] => The Ultimate Guide to Nissan Automatic Transmissions [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-automatic-transmissions [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-25 21:49:06 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-26 04:49:06 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [134] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1423 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => NISSAN TCU CODES

1st -Vehicle speed sensor(A/T Revolution) circut
2nd -Vehicle speed sensor/MTR (at Speedometer)
3rd -Throttle position sensor or switch
4th -Shift solenoid valve "A"
5th -Shift solenoid valve "B"
6th -Overrun clutch solenoid Valve
7th -Torque converter solenoid valve
8th -Fluid temp sensor/ ATCU power source circut
9th -Engine speed signal circuit
10th -Turbine revolution sensor
11th -line pressure solenoid sensor
[post_title] => Nissan Transmission Control Unit Codes [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan-transmission-control-unit-codes [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 14:37:19 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 21:37:19 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [135] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1425 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => By: dr-rjp

I just uploaded a video I made on how to use Deep Creep (made by SeaFoam) to clean out your engine.

Check it out:

http://videos.streetfire.net/v...f.htm [post_title] => Clean Your Engine With Deep Creep / SeaFoam (video) [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => clean-your-engine-with-deep-creep-seafoam-video [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2016-06-04 20:47:13 [post_modified_gmt] => 2016-06-05 03:47:13 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [136] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1426 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Nissan Final Drive Ratios [post_title] => Complete Listing of Nissan Final Drive Ratios [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => complete-listing-of-nissan-final-drive-ratios [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-07-26 22:31:58 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-07-27 05:31:58 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [137] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1427 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Well, since I sold my ignitor to a friend who needed one, I was left without one for my RB20. Off to the junkyard I go and find a J30 - to my surprise the ignitor they use looks much like the one for the RB20 - however the similarities end there.

While the J30 ignitor is smaller and much more compact than the RB20 ignitor and has the same plugs, they are vastly different - the pinouts and even the plug pins are different.

Regardless, if you need to get your RB running and don't want to try to find an RB ignitor, here's how to do so with just a bit of parts matching.

Go to Nissan and order this part number:

22020-97e25

This should be the part number for the Z32 ignitor retrofit kit, which has all the parts you need. It will set you back about $180 (I managed to get mine for $140 thanks to an great dealer discount - see if you can't swing one too!)

Inside the kit youw ill find a wiring harness, a metal plate, a bag of bolts, a new ignitor, and some zipties.

Bolt the ignitor to the metal plate so you won't lose the bolts. Here's where it gets fun. The new style (J30) ignitor is much smaller and more compact than the old style (RB) ignitor. It takes up much less space, and is vastly improved over the RB ignitor.

Unfortunately, in typical Nissan fashion it's not as simple as plug and play. On the harness you get in the kit remove the grey 7 pin plug from the harness (remove the pins from the plug).

On the RB harness from the EFI harness there will be a 6 wire plug on it going to the ignitor, one by one remove the wires from the 6 pin plug and put them into the 7 wire plug in the same order - skipping the middle hole.

It should look like this: (6 5 4 # 3 2 1) where #is the blank hole.

Now look on to the wiring harness you got in the kit and remove the grey 6 pin plug, you will be using this in a

Go back to the RB and look at the coilpack harness. You should find a 7 pin gray connector on it. Take the 6 pin connector you removed from the kit harness and swap the wires from the 7 pin connector into the new 6pin connector. Keep them in the same order starting from the left-most wire if you are looking at the plug.

It should look like this: (1 2 3 4 5 6 #) where # is the one you left out.

By now you should be done swapping pins and should have one pin left over from the old 7 pin connector. Lengthen this by a few inches and plug it into the blank spot on the new 7 pin connector (the one from the efi side).

Bolt the ignitor down to the RB with the plugs on the correct sides (I actually bolted it down backwards the first time - doh) and plug the connectors into the ignitor.

Now, if you did this correctly the car should crank over and run with no problems at all - however, if the ignitor gets hot or you see smoke, turn off the car and recheck the wiring.

Here's the theory behind all this.

Old style ignitor
7pin is output to coils with pinout of 123456g
6pin is input to ignitor with pinout of 123456

New style ignitor
7pin is input to ignitor with pinout of 123g456
6pin is output to coils with pinout of 123456

As you can see, by simply plugging the ignitor in as it is would immediately fry something in the ECU. I tried using the ignitor by simply moving the ground pin on the coil pack harness to the center position. Since transistors are simply diodes, when I went to crank the car voltage was going the wrong way and there was no spark. However, this caused the ignitor to get VERY hot and burn my hand. I lucked out and didn't fry anything except perhaps the ignitor I was trying to make work. Repinning the harness to accept the new ignitor works, my engine starts fine with it now.

If you're feeling cheap or are low on funds here is a slightly better alternative. Go to Nissan with this part number:

22435-48p00

This is the mounting plate for the ignitor, then go to a junkyard and scope out a J30 and remove the ignitor. Then all you will have to do is remove the plugs from your harness and swap as described above - but make sure to keep track of which wires went where, as a crossed wire could cause a weird firing sequence.

Contributed by Carl H [post_title] => Replace RB20 RB25 Ignitor with J30 Ignitor [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => replace-rb20-rb25-ignnitor-with-j30-ignitor [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:10:05 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:10:05 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [138] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1429 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => RB25DET SWAP
’93 240SX

Installation Components:
-RB25DET motor, transmission, ECU, MAF
-engine and transmission mounts
-drive shaft
-FMIC and piping
-Electric dual 12” fan (pushers)
-3” down pipe and test pipe
-Clutch kit
-Autometer electric boost gauge
-Autometer air/fuel gauge
-Greddy oil catch can
-Summit Racing battery relocation kit
-Walbro fuel pump

KA24DE and Transmission Removal:
-Mark and unbolt hood. -Remove front bumper. -Remove center console, passenger kick panel, driver kick panel, KA display gauge.
-Relieve fuel system pressure: remove gas cap, remove fuel pump fuse, start engine until it dies.
-Battery: disconnect negative and positive terminals, and remove.
-Drain fluids: engine oil, coolant, transmission oil, power steering fluid.
-Remove air intake.
-Remove radiator and AC condenser.
-Label and disconnect vacuum lines at engine.
[NOTE: To make this install/swap infinitely simpler, Wiring Specialties makes an OEM-appearing harness that will save you a TON of time and hassle. Their RB-into-240sx harness is top-notch!] Electrical Harness at Engine: 1) Trace engine coolant temp sensor wire, label it, and leave in the engine bay. 2) Take note of the KA injector wires (B/R), cut this wire at KA injectors.These wires will be used for the RB.The rest of the KA wiring harness I removed and used the shielding on extended wires. I also cut the other wires to extend the RB harness wires.
3) Label and disconnect KA lower harness in engine bay.
4) Label and disconnect fuel feed and return lines at fuel filter, heater hoses at firewall, and throttle connections.
-Disconnect exhaust at catalytic converter.
-Disconnect AC lines at firewall and condenser.(After it has been evacuated of Freon)
-Disconnect power steering reservoir and lines.
-Label and disconnect power brake booster hose from engine.
-Remove shifter from transmission.
-Attach hoist to KA.
-Remove engine mount nuts from both lower side of the mounts.
-Remove transmission mounts and support with a rolling jack.
-Remove drive shaft and seal the rear of the transmission to prevent oil spill.
-Pull out KA and transmission as one unit.
-Place front of car on jack stands.
-Remove power steering lines (if not using PS).

RB25DET and Transmission Installation:
-Assemble RB and transmission.Flywheel 105-112 ft/lbs.Pressure plate 25-33 ft/lbs.
-Install engine mount adapter plates on x-member.Leave loose.
-Indent firewall 1-1.5” at starter area.That is actually the wrong spot.Indent the bump that is at 7 o’clock from where I dented it.
-Install engine and transmission as one unit with a hoist.Once motor is close to mounts, place a jack under the transmission and raise until transmission is level with the engine.Lower the engine to the mounts and tighten the rubber isolator nuts (x2).Keep bolts on engine mounts to x-member loose.
-Install new transmission mounts (using bolts from old mounts) to the transmission housing.
-Raise transmission into position (shifter cover level with the tunnel) and bolt transmission mount to chassis.Leave loose.
-Place jack under oil pan and take pressure off engine mounts.
-Tighten the mount bolts to cross-member (x4) 51-58 ft lbs.
-Use a pry bar and push the transmission to the passenger side and tighten the rest of the transmission bolts 16-21 ft lbs.
-Inspect clearance between steering shaft and O2 housing (3/32-1/4”).If not enough clearance, the transmission bolt holes may need to be slotted.
-Once satisfied with the engine and transmission placement, drill a hole on the x-member and bolt the engine mount adapter wings to the cross-member.

Other Installations:
-Mount fan to radiator and install.
-Mount FMIC.
-Install intercooler piping.
-Change fuel pump to Walbro.The Walbro pump is actually smaller.
-Install NISMO adjustable FPR.
-Install battery relocation kit in trunk.
-Wire ECU, upper and lower engine harness, autometer gauges, and Apexi RSM.
**According to my understanding, based upon “Your 8 step program to your RB25 starting”; NICO Forums, by opensource. Before disconnecting and cutting wires, it is best to understand what you will need to connect to what wire. Do this by looking at both (KA and RB) ECU diagrams and actual ECU’s.Label all the wires according to “Steps” and double check everything.
Use wires and shield tubing from KA wiring harness to extend MAF sensor.
·** 1. Attach twin power connector to positive terminal.It’s the red plastic connector which will power the engine room and dash harness. Also attach the RB lower engine harness to the positive terminal (from the alternator, starter, etc.)
· 2.The RB harness’ white main plug (B-82) has been cut off close to the bundle.Cut all of KA wiring harness that will be used at the ECU plug.All wiring connections will be done at the RB wiring bundle close to the ECU inside the car.I will refer to this as the “white plug”.
The big bundle to the right is the RB “white plug”.
· 3.From the brown KA plug under the dash above the ECU, connect the Orange wire (#34 Start Switch @ ECU) to the RB white plug Grey/Red wire (AF09 Start Switch).
· 4.From the KA ECU plug, connect Red wire (101 ECCS Relay) to RB white plug Red wire (AF04 Ign Relay).
· 5.From KA ECU plug, connect Black/Red wire (#36 Ign Switch Fuse) to RB white plug Black/Red wire (AF36 Ign Relay).Get this B/R wire from the KA wiring harness.Refer to step 8 of “KA24de and transmission removal”.This is the wire that was cut at the KA injectors.
· 6.From RB connector A-? , need to connect RB Grey wire (AF81 Injectors) to the B/R wire connection in step 4b (AF36 Ign relay).
. 7.From KA ECU plug, connect Black/Pink wire (#104 Fuel Pump Relay) to RB white plug Black/Pink wire (AF73 Fuel Pump Relay).
· 8.Break for a beer.
· 9.Connect main battery ground wire from the RB engine block to the chassis.
· 10.RB lower engine harness olive plug, connect the Black/White wire (Starter Ground?) in this plug to the Black/Yellow wire from the KA. Grey plug at the bottom of the fuse box near the battery location.This is the only thing to connect in the engine bay in this 8 step wiring.
. Continuation of Wiring:
. 11.RB white plug Red/White wire (AF10 Check Engine Light) connect with KA ECU plug Red Wire (#24 Malfunction Indicator Lamp).
. 12.RB white plug Yellow/Lavender wire (MF01 Tachometer Out [#7 on ECU]) connect to KA ECU plug Yellow/Red (#2 Tachometer) and RSM Yellow wire.There are 2 Y/L wire at RB white plug so make sure you attach the right one.
. 13.RB white plug Yellow/Green wire (MJ04 Hicas Diagnostic Wire/ Speed Limiter) connect to KA ECU plug Yellow/Green (#32 Electronic Speedometer) and RSM Pink wire (connect close to ECU) and Purple wire (connect distal to ECU).Note:Speedometer on RSM is km/h and mine is completely inaccurate.I am using my KA electronic HUD speedo in km/h and it is 10 mp/h off.
. 14.RB ECU #59 Black/White connect to RSM Red wire (Ign Power).
. 15.RB ECU #50 Black connect to RSM Black wire (ground).
. Note:steps 12 and 13 you can actually connect at the RB ignition relay.That is one of the 2 relays located close to the ECU.
. 16.Check the wire color for the engine temperature gauge at the back of the KA gauge cluster and connect it with the RB temp wire.Sorry, did not make note of the color.
. 17.Connecting speedometer wires at engine bay: RB lower engine harness Grey plug, take Grey/Red and Yellow/Purple wires.Find KA Grey plug (mine was clipped to the side of the fuse box) which contains Yellow/Lavender and Yellow/Black wires.Connect Y/B to G/R and Y/L to Y/Pu.See picture.The KA wires came from that plug next to my little finger.
. Place OBX shifter on transmission.
. Note:the original KA shifter bushing at the end of the shifter will still work, although much smaller compared to the RB.Just some extra slop on the shifter.
. -Connect McKinney drive shaft.
-Connect down pipe, test pipe and exhaust.
-Connect vacuum lines.
-Connect throttle cable.
-Connect heater hoses.
-Connect fuel feed and return lines.
-Attach MAF with intake.
-Place oil filter.
-Fill fluids.Engine oil, coolant, transmission oil, brake fluid in the clutch reservoir (and bleed the line).
-Connect battery terminals.
-Crank engine a few times to get oil pressure and lubricate engine.
-Replace fuel pump fuse.
**Cross fingers and start engine.

Looking for more RB25DET resources? Check THIS out! RB25DET technical articles, discussion, modifications, repair and more! References:
NICO RB Forums
McKinney Motorsports Installation Mount Kit Instructions
Chiltons Repair Manual
Nissan FSM wiring Diagram
Gweeds.net RB25DET,DE Diagram

Disclaimer:To the best of my knowledge this information which I gathered is correct.This is the step-by-step instruction that I used when I did my swap.This information is my compiled research from the internet forums and manufacturers instructions.It is best that you do your own research and only use this as a reference.Therefore, I am not accountable for any screw ups.My mechanical experience is very limited and you should double check everything with other sources that is more qualified than me.

Contributed by: xjon
[post_title] => How To: RB25DET Swap into a Nissan 240sx S13 [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => rb25det-swap-into-240sx-s13 [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:10:18 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:10:18 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [139] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1431 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => A
A/F or AFR - Air / Fuel Ratio
AAA American Automobile Association
AAC - Aux. Air Cut Valve (See IAC)
ABS: Anti-lock Brake System
ACL- Air cleaner
AFM- Air Flow Meter (See MAF)
AFPR: Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
APP - Accelerator Pedal Position (sensor)
ASCD - Automatic Speed Control Device
AT or A/T - Automatic Transmission
ATDC : After top dead center
ATF - Automatic Transmission Fluid
ATTESA Advanced Total Traction Engineering System for All
ATTESA ETS Advanced Total Traction Engineering System for All with Electronic Torque Split
B
BA - Brake Assist
BA/FTS - Battery/Fluid Temperature Sensor
BARO- Barometric pressure
BAROS-BCDD- Barometric pressure sensor-BCDD
BMC: Brake Master Cylinder
BTDC: Before Top Dead Center
C
CAC- Charge air cooler
CAI - Cold Air Intake
CAN - Controller Area Network
CARB California Air Resources Board
CARB- Carburetor
CAS: Cam/Crank Angle Sensor
CEL - Check Engine Light
CFI system- Continuous fuel injection system
CHTS- Cylinder Head Temperature sensor
CKP- Crankshaft position
CKPS- Crankshaft position sensor
CKS: Crank Angle Sensor
CL- Closed loop
CMC: Clutch Master Cylinder
CMP- Camshaft position
CMPS- Camshaft position sensor
CO - Carbon Monoxide
CPP switch- Clutch pedal position switch
CTOX system- Continuous trap oxidizer system
CTP switch- Closed throttle position switch
CVT - Continuously Variable Transmission
CVVT Continuously Variable Valve Timing
D
DFI system- Direct fuel injection system
DI system- Distributor ignition system
DLC- Data link connector
DLC for CONSULT- Data link connector for CONSULT-II
DOHC - Dual Overhead Cams
DOT Department of Transportation
DRL - Daytime Running Lights
DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Code
DTC- Diagnostic trouble code
DTM- Diagnostic test mode
DTM I- Diagnostic test mode I
DTM II- Diagnostic test mode II
DTM selector- Diagnostic test mode selector
E
E85 - Blend of gasoline that is 85% Ethanol, 15% Gasoline
EBFD - Electronic Brake Force Distribution (usually part of a stability control system)
EC- Engine control
ECCS - Electronic-Conetrated Engine Control System
ECM- Engine control module
ECS - Electronic Stability Control
ECT- Engine coolant temperature
ECT: Engine Coolant Temperature sensor
ECTS - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
ECTS- Engine coolant temperature sensor
EEPROM- Electrically erasable programmable read only memory
EFE system- Early fuel evaporation system
EFE-mixture heater- Early fuel evaporation-mixture heater
EGR valve- Exhaust gas recirculation valve
EGR: Exhaust Gas Recirculation
EGT: Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor (used most often with EGR to determine function)
EI- system- Electronic ignition system
EM- Engine modification
EPA Environmental Protection Agency
EPROM- Erasable programmable read only memory
EV Electric Vehicle
EVAP (EVP) - Evaporative Emissions System
EVAP canister- Evaporative emission canister
EVAP system- Evaporative emission system
F
FIC: Fast Idle Cam- Throttle Body Mounted Assembly to raise the engine RPM during warmup.It operates by using a wax filled compartment which gets flow of coolant.As the Coolant warms, it melts the wax and the wax expands.This expanding then lowers the engine RPM to normal.
FLCA-front lower control arm
FMIC - Front Mount Intercooler
FMU - Fuel Management Unit - See RRFPR
FP- Fuel Pump
FPCU/FPCM: Fuel Pump Control Unit/Module-Controls fuel pump voltage by variable ground.
FPR- Fuel Pressure Regulator- Maintains fuel rail pressure by a vaccum diaphram.
FSM - Factory Service Manual
FSTB - Front Strut Tower Brace
FUCA - Front Upper Control Arm
G
GVW - Gross Vehicle Weight
H
HC - Hydrocarbon
HEV Hybrid Electric Vehicle
HICAS High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension
HID - High Intensity Discharge
HLA - Hydraulic Lash Adjustor - Oil pressurized roller cam follower adjuster. A modern version of the old valve lifter which used push rods unit.
HLSD - Helical Limited Slip Differential
HP Horsepower, Unit of Measurement for Power Output (746W = 1HP)
HVAC - heating ventilation and air conditioning system
I
IAC - Idle Air Control Valve-Controls engine idle speed by varying the amount of air that enters the plenum by pulsing the valve open and closed.
IAT (Sensor): Intake Air Temperature (Sensor)
IC - Intercooler
IVIS - Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer Sysem
J
K
KPH Kilometers per Hour
KS - Knock Sensor- Detects detonation by a piezoelectric ceramic material.Sort of acts like a microphone.
L
Lb-ft Pound-foot, Unit of Measurement for Torque
LCA- lower control arm
LEV Low Emissions Vehicle
LPSV - Line Pressure Solenoid Valve
M
MAF - Mass Air Flow sensor- Meaures air flow entering the engine by measuring the voltage required to keep a wire filament at specific temperature.
MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure
MAP (Sensor): Manifold Absolute Pressure
MAPS - manifold absolute pressure sensor
MBT: Mean Best Torque
MC: Master Cylinder
MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp (The CORRECT terminology for a CEL)
MON Motor Octane Number
MPFI Multiport Fuel Injection
MPH Miles per Hour
N
N2O Nitrous Oxide (Chemical Formula)
NATS - Nissan Anti-Theft System
NDIS - Nissan Direct Ignition System
NHTSA National Highway Traffic and Safety Association
NMA National Motorists Association
NMAC Nissan Motor Acceptance Coorporation
NNA Nissan North America
NOPI Number One Parts Incorporated
NOS Nitrous Oxide Systems
NOx - Nitrous of Oxides- An emission term, usually caused by an improperly functioning EGR
NTCNA Nissan Technical Center North America
NVH - Noise Vibration and Harshness
NVIS - Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System
O
O/D - Overdrive
O2/Oxy/Oxygen Sensor : Exhaust gas sensor- Measures the oxygen content in exhaust to determine fuel mixture
OBD - On-Board Diagnostics
OBD I - onboard diagnostics generation one:On most vehicles up to 1996 made for the US market some 1995.Each brand has its own proprietary version.
OBD II - onboard diagnostics, second generation:Industry standard after 1996
ORVR - On-Board Refueling Vapor Recovery
OVRCSV - Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve
P
PCV - positive crankcase ventilation
PNP - Park/Neutral Position (switch)
PS Pferdestarke, Unit of Measurement for Power Output (735.49875W = 1PS)
PT/SEN - Power Train Revolution Sensor
PTU: Power Transistor Unit
PZEV Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle
Q
R
RLCA-rear lower control arm
RON Research Octane Number
RPM- Engine speed
RPM Revolution per Minute
RRFPR - Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator
RRFPR: Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator
RSB - Rear Sway Bar
RSTB - Rear Strut Tower Brace
RUCA - Rear Upper Control Arm
RUCA- rear upper control arm
S
SEMA Specialty Equipment Market Association
SMIC - Side Mount Intercooler
SOHC - Single Overhead Cam
SRS - Supplemental Restraint System
SSV - Shift Solenoid Valve
SULEV Super Ulta Low Emissions Vehicle
T
TB - Throttle Body
TBFI Throttle Body Fuel Injection
TC - Traction Control
TC rod - tension control rod (tension rod)
TCC S/V - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve
TCU Transmission Control Unit
TDC - Top Dead Center
TDC: Top Dead Center
TPMS - Tire Pressure Monitoring System
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
TSB - Technical Service Bulletin - Updates to service manual to address issues discovered in the field.
U
UDP - Under Drive Pully
ULEV Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle
V
VDC - Vehicle Dynamic Control
VDC - Vehicle Dynamic Control
VE: Volumetric Efficiency-
VLSD - Viscous Limited Slip Differential
VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor
VSSMTR - Vehicle Speed Sensor Meter
VTC: Valve Timing Control
VVL Variable Valve Lift
W
WOT - Wide Open Throttle (Pedal to the Metal)
X
Y
Z
ZEV Zero Emissions Vehicle

Contributed by: Wes [post_title] => Automotive Terms and Abbreviations [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => automotive-terms-and-abbreviations [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:10:28 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:10:28 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [140] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1437 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => There needs to be some clarification on the letter customers are receiving. First thing they do NOT cover the Brembo brake systems. We have had many of the G35's have premature brake wear and Infiniti has been addressed the concern by customers, and us technicians as well. We have many G35's visit our service department daily, and I have yet to see the Brembo brake system have a premature brake wear concern. Infiniti has extended the brake warranty to the 36/36, although customers need to know that if the brake pads are NOT worn to the minimum thickness of 3MM, it does not require the dealer to replace the brake pads. What we are seeing in the real world, the brake rotors are of a soft material, and are wearing a severe concave wear pattern in the rotors. The wear is to a point of you cannot machine SOME of the front rotors due to it will be beyond the minimum thickness of .886 of an inch. We techs are hand tied as to the repair of the brake systems due to the Infiniti guidelines as what we can and cannot perform on the vehicle. I am GLAD that they did step up to the plate and extend the brake warranty. My advise would be to drive and enjoy your G35, and have the brake pads and rotors checked everytime you have the vehicle serviced, if there are a brake issue, address the concern then, and Infiniti will cover what is necessary to repair the brake system. Another note is they DO cover either the front or rear brake system, whichever is the concern. Several of our Infiniti customers have wondered and asked, how many miles should you get on a set of brakes, and the CORRECT answer is, you CANNOT put a mileage stamp on any brake system, regardless of manufacturer, type of brake system,etc! Give you an example, one of my Q-45 customers is a traveling salesman. We performed the 60k maintenance on his vehicle and have yet to replace the brake pads on the front or the rear. Why? Because he travels throughout the southeastern states and most of the mileage is interstate driven, so in turn the brakes are used at the minimum level. On the other side of that scenario, we have a customer with a G-20 and runs a paper route delivering the newspaper, he might get 7,500 miles (if he's lucky)from his front pads. Remember, it is a letter of extending the warranty and not a campaign related issue. Again, I will state that Infiniti has stepped up to the concern, and our taking care of our customers, with the many years of Nissan/Infiniti service experience, that is what its all about! I've always been told, take care of the customer, and they will take care of you. can't get any plainer than that. [post_title] => G35 Brake System [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => g35-brake-system [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 13:13:22 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-29 20:13:22 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [141] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1438 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => I updated this article to include new info regarding a glazing step (which made a much bigger difference than I thought it would).

Article begins below:

OK… so, a detailed walk through of how I have been detailing my car.

To start with, I used Chopps excellent detailing write up as my basis. IN fact, using his method I got some awesome results.However, my intention was to create a method that would allow for ‘professional” type results without actually having to be a professional.

I will say, right up front, that my method will not give dramatically better results that Chopps method.And, since mine is more expensive and slightly more time consuming, this may not be for everyone.My recommendation would be to use this system if you are attempting to restore paint that has been neglected.If your paint is already pretty good, then this is probably overkill.

Speaking of overkill…I picked up a fair amount of this on Meguiar’s’ website.However, those guys are generally professionals and have an absurd amount of time, money, and experience.I tied to find a system that sort of split the difference between Chopps system and the system a professional might use.

Hardware:
•About 15-20 VERY CLEAN towels.
oEither micro fiber or 100% cotton terry towels.I prefer the micro fiber for some things and the cotton for others.Just use what seems best to you.
•Rotary buffer/polisher.
o Professionals will tell you that you need to spend $200+ to get a good one.But, since I’m not using it every day, I didn’t see any reason to spend the money.I bought one on eBay for about $50 shipped.I saw one the other day at Harbor Freight for $34.99The primary concern is that it be a standard polisher (not an angle grinder or some other direct drive power tool) and that it be variable speed (preferably the range will include 1000-2500 rpm range).
•10” Orbital/Dual Action buffer
oJust get a cheapy… nothing special needed.Wal-Mart, Pep boys, wherever, you can find these things for about $15
•4-6 10” terry bonnets for orbital buffer
oYou can find these for $5 for a 6 pack at Wal-Mart
•Rotary buffer backing plate and foam pads
oThe backing plate and pads should be bought together since they need to work together.3M, Schlegel, Meguiar’s, and Lake Country all make some nice ones.Availability locally may be an issue, so just get what you can locally.
oBacking plate should be the “hook and loop” (that’s Velcro for those of you who don’t care about patent violations) design that threads on to the 5/8” post of the rotary.The Velcro will allow you to quickly and easily switch from one pad to another. This part will cost you around $20 depending on what/where you get it.
oI am using 4 separate levels of foam pad.You could probably do it with 2, depending on how deep you want to go with the compound/polish.I use a heavy cut, medium cut, polishing, and finishing pad.4 separate levels, 4 separate colors.I spent about $12 per pad…just make sure you get something good.
•Two good sized buckets.
•A hose with variable spray nozzle.
•California Water blade
•A couple of those cheap, old fashioned plastic Ketchup/Mustard/condiment bottles you can buy at the dollar store.Its easier to disperse the compound and polishing liquids out of one of these than the bottle they come in.
•Chamois or synthetic Chamois like the Meguiar’s Water Magnet towels
•A good mechanics stool with wheels (preferably the short kind) will make your life easier while doing the sides.I found mine at Harbor Freight for $12!
•A tire brush.This should be a couple of dollars at the most
•A wheel brush.I would recommend getting something good for this.I bought a Meguiar’s Gold Class brush for $11.If you spent some loot on your wheels, make sure they stay looking nice!
•A shop vac style vacuum.One of those handy little car vacs is fine…just so long as it sucks.
•An extension cord.Something long enough to get to every side of your car comfortably, but not so long that you will spend the entire day tripping over the slack.25’ works nicely in my garage.

I will say right up front that I like the Meguiar’s products.Chopp recommended them, and I am used to using them, so I am inclined to recommend them as well.However, there are other good brands.3M, Mothers, Turtle Wax, and a few others all make some nice products that compare well with the software listed below.As always, choose what you prefer.I didn’t give prices on any of the software.Partly because I don’t remember (I didn’t buy it all at once…I sort picked it up a piece at a time), and partly because I don’t really want to add up how much I have spent.

Software:
•Dawn dishwashing soap.
•Meguiar’s Gold Class Car Shampoo
•Meguiar’s #84 cleaner/polisher/compound for Rotary buffers
•Meguiar’s #2 cleaner polish
•Meguiar’s Gold Class Liquid car wax
•Meguiar’s NXT liquid car wax
•Meguiar’s Deep Crystal #3 Yellow Carnauba Wax
•Meguiar’s Quick Detailer
•Meguiars #7 Professional Show Car Glaze
•Lexol leather cleaner
•Lexol Leather treatment
•Vinylex
•Aerosol Glass cleaner – don’t get the cheap stuff.Get something good!
•Meguiar’s NXT Tire Cleaner
•Meguiar’s Hot Rims All wheel cleaner
•Armor All Detailers Advantage Foaming Tire Treatment
•Rain X
•Simple Green

Technique:
Well… here is the part that professionals will tell you makes the difference.After doing massive amounts of reading on the topic, the “pros” had me so scared I was going to take the paint right off my car that I didn’t even want to start.But, the only way for me to learn was to do it.As it turns out, you actually have to work pretty hard to do damage to your paint.Don’t get too nervous.Respect the equipment… you can do damage…but, if you are smart and go slow, you shouldn’t have any problems at all.

There are a few points that I think are important about technique.
1.Take it slow.When using the rotary, start at the slowest speeds.It is difficult to do any damage when the wheel is turning at less than 1K rpm.Slowly work your way up in speed until you are getting the result you want.
2.Don’t use too much product.The tendency for most, and me in particular, was to put on tons of compounding liquid.You honestly need very little.
3.Use light pressure and smooth movements while polishing.Try to avoid pressing hard, moving very fast, or moving very slow.

A lot of this is feel.And, it took me a couple times of experimenting on different areas of my car before I started to figure out aggressive I could get.I imagine this is one of those things you could spend years mastering…I will try to give you what you need to get a great result without months of practice.

Just one other note… change towels often.If you drop a towel, abandon it.During each stage of the process try to introduce clean towels.

The Process:

Finally, here we go.What to do, and what order to do it in.

1.Wash the car.Yep, it starts that simple.
a.Use the hose on a low pressure setting to really soak the car.This will prevent you from pushing dirt/pollen/whatever around on the paint with the water and creating tiny scratches.Spend a good 5 minutes soaking the car…seems like you aren’t doing anything, but trust me, you are.
b.Use the Dawn dishwashing soap to create nice bucket of soapy water.This will help strip any old wax and crap off of the finish.I had read in a few places that doing a mix of alcohol and water is more effective.So, if you feel like giving that a try, have at it.I didn’t want to risk doing too strong a concentration.
c.Fill your other bucket ½ way with just straight water.
d.Wash from the top down, and wash smallish areas at a time (only the hood, only the trunk, only the roof, etc…).Rinse each area as you go.Each time you get your towel (preferably mircofiber for this task) soapy, go straight to the car with it.When you rinse your towel, do it in the bucket of straight water.Ring it out and try to get it clean, then return the towel to the soapy bucket and repeat.Make sure you use a separate towel for rocker panels, under sides of bumpers, fronts of bumpers and rearview mirrors.Any place that might have collected heavy dirt or bug guts should have a separate towel.
e.Spray the wheels with the wheel cleaner.Use your wheel brush to make sure all is cleaned, and then rinse.
f.Rinse the entire car thoroughly when you are done.Try to keep the entire car wet the entire time you are washing it.This will make a big difference when you are done.
g.Start drying using the California waterblade.You should be able to remove 95% of the water on the surface in under 5 minutes using this.Then, simply dry off the other wet spots using a chamois.
2.Do a “once over” of the interior.
a.Vacuum the carpet and floor mats.Vacuum the trunk, cleaning out all your McDonalds wrappers from the back seat.Just generally tidy things up enough so that you can actually get to the stuff you want to clean a little later.
b.Take a damp towel and just wipe down the dash, the seats, and the center console.Just try to make sure there isn’t anything too funky left.
3.First layer of compounding.
a.Using the heavy cut pad and the Meguiar’s #84 (M84 to the experts) its time to start the process.
b.Starting at one end of the car and working toward the other end, compound one area at a time.Try to do a couple square feet.The smaller the area, the better a job you can do of controlling the compound.
c.Start the rotary at about 1K rpms for this step.You may go faster, but I didn’t.
i.Put down a smallish amount of the M84 and then use the wheel to spread it around.Don’t have it spinning, just spread the liquid around on the area you want to compound.
ii.Move rhythmically through the liquid until the M84 is just about starting to dry up.You can tell by looking at it, but you can also tell by the sound of the rotary.If it sounds like it is working harder then it is time to stop.
iii.If you are getting a lot of splash, you are using too much product.
iv.As soon as you pull the wheel away, wipe the compound off the paint.You definitely do not want to let it dry on the paint.
d.This step will take A LONG TIME… it seems like you are never going to finish.I break this job up with multiple short breaks for a beverage, an apple, or a side of beef.
e.You are likely to have some dust on the car from the dried compound.Don’t worry too much about that, you will wash it off in a little while.Just try to keep it off the painted surfaces as you are working on them.Use a tiny spray bottle of water to mist on the areas that have lots of dust… this will contain the dust and make it easier to wipe off.
f.This step will dull your finish significantly, so don’t get nervous.The primary role of this step is to level the finish and remove some of the scratches, watermarks, pitting, and other imperfections.
4.Second layer of compound
a.Same as step 3, but this time use the Medium Cut pad.
b.Continue using the M84
c.Step up to about 1250 rpm for this step.
d.All other procedures will remain the same.
e.This step will continue to eliminate imperfections in the paint and will dull some of the bigger buffing marks left behind from the last step.
5.First layer of polishing
a.Same as steps 3&4, but this time use the Polishing pad.
b.Switch to the Meguiar’s #2 (M2 to the experts)
c.Step up to about 1500 rpm
d.You can use even less product with the M2 than you did with the M84
e.All other procedures will remain the same.
f.This step will begin putting gloss back in to the clear coat/paint.You will notice a good shine on the sections you complete.
6.Second layer of polishing
a.Same as the previous 3 steps, but this time using the Finishing pad.
b.Continue using M2.
c.Yes, this is taking forever.Yes, it does seem like you will never finish.Trust me, it will be worth it.
d.Step up to about 1750 rpm.
e.All other procedures remain the same.
f.This step will truly polish the finish.You will notice a great shine on the car when you are done.A lot of the imperfections that were visible to the naked eye will be gone…you will be left with a really nice mirror-like finish.
7.Wash the car again.
a.This time use the Meguiar’s Gold Class shampoo.This is your opportunity to get rid of any of the dust that might still be clinging to the car.
b.Make sure you soak the car really well, and remember that the dust is compound and that it may scratch the paint again if you are too aggressive trying to wash it off.Just take your time and clean everything thoroughly.Same technique as the first wash.
c.Wash the wheels again, use your wheel brush.
d.Dry the car using the same technique as before.If you are noticing any bits of dust in the water as you are drying, then you haven’t rinsed it well enough.Go back and rinse the whole car again.This is important.
e.Start your engine…you will see why in a minute.
f.Once the car is dry, take some time to dry the wheels and tires.Use the Meguiar’s NXT tire cleaner.It is a foaming spray…just spray it on all four tires.Go back with the tire brush and agitate the foam…it will clean the tires up nicely.
8.Clean the engine bay.
a.Use your hose to mist the engine bay.You have electronics in there so don’t go spraying all crazy like.Just a fine mist to get everything damp.
b.Put some Simple Green in a spray bottle (don’t dilute it) and mist the grimier parts of your engine bay.Again, avoid anything electrical.
c.Finally, spray the engine clean.Again, just a mist…. All you want to do is put in enough water to rinse the Simple Green out of the compartment.Don’t flood anything.
d.Shut your engine off.
e.Take a rag and dry any level, plastic, rubber, or decorative surfaces.
f.Use the Vinylex to wipe down anything rubber or plastic inside the engine compartment.
g.Use the Quick Detailer to wipe down any painted surfaces.This will leave your engine compartment looking all shiny and new….it will almost look like you care about your engine.
9.Apply and remove the Glaze
a.Using your 10” orbital, apply a THIN film of the Meguiars #7 Glaze to all the painted surfaces.No pressure needed… just a thin layer on each small area of paint.
b.Similar to compounding/polishing, this should be done in small batches and should be wiped clean after each small area is completed.
c.Make sure you use another clean bonnet for this.
d.When done… let the paint “breathe” for a bit.I like to take a lunch break at this point.If you are working outside or somewhere that dust might accumulate quickly, you may want to just give the car a light dusting with a micro fiber towel when you get back.
10.Apply first layer of wax
a.Using the 10”orbital, apply a THIN film of the Meguiar’s Gold Class liquid wax to the entire painted surface of the car.
b.Use a nice clean bonnet for this.And, make sure you don’t use too much product, again.A little bit of this stuff will go a long way.
c.No need to apply any real pressure with the buffer….just enough to get everyone spread around evenly.This buffer is not really doing anything further to the surface of the paint…it is just saving your shoulders is all.
d.Now… you are going to let it set up…so, don’t do anything to the paint.
11.Vacuum and Clean the vinyl and plastic portions of the interior.
a.Get that shop vac and do one more vacuuming.You may not have much to clean but, its worth making sure you got it all.The rest of your interior is going to be flawless, might as well make sure your carpet is as well.
b.This would also be a good time to use a carpet stain remover in case you stepped on a ketchup packet on your floor mats.
c.Grab the Vinylex and towel (I prefer the terry for this portion of the job).
d.Spray the Vinylex on the towel, then wipe the towel on the surfaces.
e.Wipe down anything that is plastic, or vinyl.Look around, the ceiling, the dash, the trim around your seats, the seat belt clips, the shouler restraint clips on the B pillars, the sun visors…get it all.If you are putting in this much time, you might as well make sure you get it all right.
12.Buff out the first layer of wax.
a.Nothing complicated here.Just buff out the paint.
b.Use light pressure and a nice clean towel.
c.By the end of this stage you will be thoroughly pleased with the amazing shine of your car.
13.Apply second layer of wax/glaze
a.Using the 10” orbital buffer and clean bonnet, apply a thin film of the Meguiar’s NXT Liquid wax.
b.Do the entire surface the same as you did in step 9.
c.Let is set up
14.Clean the leather portion of your interior
a.Using the Lexol leather cleaner and a wet towel (I prefer terry for this one), clean the leather.
b.Spray the Lexol on the leather itself, then wipe down the leather with the wet towel.Keep doing this until you get suds on the towel.This should be just like cleaning with soap and water.
c.Wipe it all down… fronts, backs of seats, undersides, the sides, the head rests, the undersides of the headrests.Again, might as well do it right since you are taking the time.
d.Go back with a separate dry, clean cloth and wipe down any excess moisture.The leather will be nice and clean now.
e.Take the Lexol leather treatment and another clean dry towel and treat the leather.
f.Spray the Lexol on the leather and wipe it in with the towel.Again, get it all.Lexol is awesome stuff… your car might smell like a horse saddle for a day or two, but your leather will thank you for it.
15.Buff out the second layer of wax.
a.Same as step 11.Use light pressure and a new towel.
b.By the end of this step you may soil yourself due to the amazing shine on your car… but, wait, its going to get better.
16.Apply third layer of wax.
a.Using the 10” orbital buffer and a clean bonnet, apply a thin film of the Meguiar’s Deep Crystal Carnauba wax.
b.Same as step 9.
c.Let it set up.
17.Final tire treatment and clean interior glass
a.By this time your tires will be nice and clean and black from the NXT cleaner.
b.Go around and treat all 4 tires with the Armor All Detailer Advantage Foaming spray.Just spray it on, and let it sit.The tires are already really clean at this point, so the spray will just bring a nice gloss to the tires.
c.Open up all the doors and try not to get fingerprints on anything.With a clean towel and the Aerosol glass cleaner, clean all interior windows.The windshield, rear window, etc.Spray lightly… you don’t want any of that over spray getting on your newly cleaned interior.
18.Buff out the third layer of wax
a.Same step 11.Use light pressur and a new towel.
b.Your car now shines as good as it possibly can… but, we are going to do one more layer just to make sure.Plus, for protection from bugs and birds, this last layer can’t hurt.
19.Final layer of wax
a.This time, by hand, apply a thin glaze of the Carnuba wax.Pay special attention to get anything that might have been tough to get at with the buffer.
b.Light pressure and a very thin layer are all you need.
c.Let it set up.
20.Clean and treat exterior glass
a.Use the aerosol towel, and the same towel that you used on interior glass to clean the exterior glass.Again, be careful of overspray and be thorough.
b.Once clean, apply a layer of Rain X to all windows and exterior mirrors.Buff it out with a clean towel.
21.Buff out final layer of wax.
a.This is it… the home stretch… all you have to do is buff out one more layer of wax.
b.Carefully, lightly, and with a clean towel buff out this last layer.
c.Its going to look ridiculously shiny… try to contain yourself.Take pictures, park it in front of your house and charge your neighbors admission to see it.Yes, it will be that good.
22.Rest
a.Take a couple of Advil.
b.Have a beer or something.
c.Sit in your hot tub or bath tub
d.Sleep for about 14 hours.
[post_title] => Detailing your car like a professional [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => detailing-professional [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:10:40 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:10:40 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [142] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1440 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => We've all heard the saying, "There's no replacement for displacement," and "You just can't beat cubic inches." The basis for these statements is that the greater an engine's displacement, the more air and fuel can be squeezed into the cylinders, and the higher its potential power output. But they're not entirely accurate: There is another way to stuff more air and fuel into the cylinders--lots more, in fact--without increasing an engine's size. It's called supercharging, which is a way to force more air into an engine than it could normally take in by atmospheric pressure alone. Only the most efficient normally aspirated race engines with very specialized induction tuning can exceed 100 percent volumetric efficiency (VE), but a supercharger's forced induction makes exceeding 100 percent easy; 15 pounds of boost pressure (defined as pressure above the normal 14.7 psi atmospheric pressure) effectively doubles an engine's displacement--with correspondingly huge potential horsepower increases.

"Supercharger" is a generic term for any forced-induction compressor that is driven by a belt, gears, or a turbine. The turbine-driven version is known as a turbocharger, and it has the potential to be the most efficient power-adder for an internal-combustion engine on the planet. An internal-combustion engine is notoriously inefficient: Only about one-third of the energy released during combustion actually drives the crank. Of the remaining two-thirds, one-third goes into the cooling system, and one-third goes out the exhaust as heat. In fact, a 200hp engine dumps the equivalent of about 70 hp of raw heat straight out the tailpipe! However, a turbo's turbine-wheel is driven by the engine's own exhaust gases as they exit the motor, so some of the heat that normally goes to waste is now used to power a compressor that pumps more air into the engine.

Turbos have three major subassemblies: an exhaust turbine housing, a bearing housing, and a compressor housing. The exhaust and bearing housings each have a wheel with integral blades, and are connected together by a shaft mounted on bearings. Some turbos--like this Turbonetics Super Thumper that can support over 2,400 hp--offer a ceramic ball bearing option. A: Turbine wheel, B: Bearing and seal, C: Turbo shaft, D: Exhaust turbine housing, E: Backplate, F: Compressor wheel, G: Compressor housing, H: Bearing housing, I: Inducer bore, J: Exducer bore

Although a turbo's position in the exhaust stream does restrict exhaust flow potential to some extent, the pumping losses are much less than the parasitic drag induced by a conventional supercharger's belt or gears. In a typical gasoline-fueled engine, it's common to see 30 out of every 100 hp added by a beltdriven supercharger being wasted turning the drive pulleys and belts; this compares to about 5-10 hp per every 100 suffered as pumping losses by a typical well-designed turbo installation. Considered as a system, the turbo setup has less heat buildup than an old-style Roots blower, and its smaller size compared to a centrifugal supercharger permits higher compressor-wheel rotational speeds and more radical blade-tip curvature that collectively translate into greater pumping efficiency.

If turbos are so cool, why don't we see more of them on street machines outside of imports? In racing, it's discrimination, plain and simple. Turbos are dominant anywhere they're allowed to compete against beltdriven blowers (as well as nitrous oxide), so rule-makers almost always legislate against them, adding weight, reducing displacement, or relegating them to a separate class. On the street, it's due to perceived complexity and installation difficulty. While these issues certainly aren't trifles, in these pages--with help from Innovative Turbo, Turbonetics, and other turbo specialists--HOT ROD will attempt to demystify some of these complexities and get you started on the road to making some serious horsepressure.

The little brother of the TO4 (far right) is the T3 (far left). The T3's envelope is about 25 percent smaller, making it easier to package. Turbonetics says many street V-8s run OK with T3 or T3/TO4 hybrids, which is a real godsend in a tight engine compartment.

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The Feedback Loop
There are a bewildering variety of turbo configurations, but they're all similar in appearance and function: During engine operation, hot exhaust gases blow out of the engine's exhaust ports, into the exhaust manifold, through connecting tubing, and into the turbo's turbine housing. They strike the blades on the turbine wheel and make it spin. When the turbine wheel spins, so does the compressor wheel. As the compressor wheel rotates, it sucks air (or both air and fuel in the case of a draw-through carbureted setup) into the compressor housing. Centrifugal force throws the air outward, causing it to flow out of the turbo into the intake manifold under pressure.

There are four TO4 turbine wheel trims (rear row)--N, O, P, and Q. The large Q-trim reduces backpressure, but being heavier, it spools up slower. Each trim level is available in two shaft diameters and with a choice of ball or plain bearings. In the front and middle rows are just 10 of the literally dozens of TO4 compressor wheel trims; they're ID'ed by numbers.

As engine speed and boost increase, the turbo becomes self-feeding: The more air the compressor packs into the engine, the more exhaust gas is generated, which causes the turbine wheel to spin faster, in turn spinning the compressor faster and packing more air into the engine.

The key is getting the wheels spinning fast enough in the first place to start generating boost and a feedback loop. Turbos are load-sensitive and need energy to work. If the compressor and turbine wheels are not spinning fast enough when the accelerator pedal is mashed, there will be a slight delay before the turbo develops sufficient boost, a phenomenon known as turbo lag. Factors contributing to turbo lag include improper turbocharger selection, the turbo's physical location within the system, and the inherent limitations of nonelectronically managed engine packages.

Turbo bearings are subject to tremendous heat. The water-cooled housing (above left) is recommended for prolonged highway use. Short-duration competition engines often use an air-cooled housing (above right) for less complexity.

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No Junkyard Dogs
The most critical aspect of a successful turbocharger installation is the proper selection of the basic turbocharger unit itself. Conventional superchargers come in only a few different size variations, and their output is easily adjustable by changing the drive-pulley ratio. Turbochargers come in an enormous array of sizes and shapes to confuse you, and if you select the wrong one, the engine won't function at anywhere near its potential.

First, you can't just go down to the salvage yard, pick up an OEM unit, and bolt it onto your hot rod. Its size and design characteristics almost certainly won't be right for your custom engine from a flow and efficiency standpoint. Its physical layout may also be hard to adapt: The wastegate may be integral with the turbo, making it hard to mate with other engines' exhaust systems, and the compressor and turbine halves may not be clockable as is the case with high-performance aftermarket units intended for use on custom installations.

This 358ci small-block Chevy is about as rad as it can get and still use conventional 23-degree-valve-angle heads. Electronically managed by ACCEL Gen 7 DFI, the 10.0:1 engine runs a single large-frame Innovative GTB88 turbo and makes over 1,400 hp on C-16 race gas. Big race turbos are typically identified by the inducer orifice size--in this case 88 mm.

Specifically intended for custom installations, aftermarket units like AirResearch's popular TO4 series are modular and assemble like an erector set, allowing for variable combinations of turbine housings, compressor housings, turbine wheels, and compressor wheels within a given turbo series. Just like cams, there are so many factors governing turbo selection that consulting an expert is highly recommended. However, the following overview will get you close.

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Compressor Housing

Turbo size selection begins with choosing the compressor housing (the air-into-engine side of the turbo). Racers operating with high-octane fuel usually base this on how much horsepower is required to be competitive in their particular racing venue. Street-driven cars operating on available pump gas are boost-limited, so their primary selection criterion is based on how much turbo their engine combination can accept at a specified boost level. Generally, 10 psi without an intercooler, or 15 psi with an intercooler (on a well-tuned, electronically managed 8.0:1-compression engine) is about the best a street guy can hope for on pump gas.

This graph can be used to determine engine airflow requirements for 10- and 15-psi boost levels.

Whether you're seeking to reach a desired power level (for racing) or a specific boost level (on the street), first determine how much airflow is needed to reach your goal at a given engine displacement and engine rpm. A normally aspirated four-stroke engine's cfm requirements are expressed by the classic formula: VE is at least 100 percent for a turbocharged engine, so use 1.0 for VE.

Generally on a high-performance EFI engine, every 1 lb/min of airflow is worth about 10 hp, so to find the required lb/min for a race-only application, start with the horsepower requirement, then divide by 10:

Lb/min = hp / 10

For any turbo series, the higher the A/R ratio, the better the top-end performance. The lower the A/R ratio, the better the low-speed response.

Every compressor has a definite combination of airflow and boost pressure at which it is most efficient. When choosing a compressor, you want to position the point of maximum efficiency in the most useful part of the engine's operating range. As efficiency drops off, heat transferred to the air-induction side of the turbo goes up. That's bad for both power and durability.

Turbo manufacturers publish compressor maps that establish the peak efficiencies of every turbo unit and its variations. These maps are an extremely important part of compressor selection because popular turbo series like the TO4 and its custom aftermarket derivatives have many different available wheel trims--a classification system that defines the relationship between the compressor's inducer (inlet orifice) and the compressor wheel overall diameter and tip shape. At first glance, these maps resemble a topographic contour map, and in a sense the map's bands are describing a turbo's output geography, but in terms of boost and airflow instead of elevation. They may look complex, but don't be put off. The accompanying sidebar shows how to read a compressor map and use it to select a compressor for some hypothetical engine combos.

A tangential turbine housing (left) offers about 4 percent higher flow but has less mounting and packaging flexibility than the on-center housing (right). In the ubiquitous TO4 line, each design is available in a choice of four different trim levels (which must match the turbine wheel trim), and up to eight A/R ratios.

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Turbine Housing

Because of the turbocharger's modular nature, in many instances it is possible to mix and match different turbine housings (the exhaust side of the turbo) with a given compressor housing. This permits tailoring the turbo specifically to the individual engine's operating characteristics and the vehicle's intended usage.

The turbine must make the compressor spin fast enough to produce the required airflow at the specified boost level. A small turbine spins faster than a larger turbine (which reduces lag), but develops more backpressure (which restricts exhaust flow). The goal is a turbine that spins fast enough to generate the necessary response and airflow while minimizing backpressure in the exhaust.

The turbine housing A/R (area/radius) ratio is the area (A) of any turbine inlet scroll cross-section divided by the distance from the center of that cross-section to the center of the turbine shaft (R). For any given turbine housing, A and R vary in the same proportions, so all As divided by their corresponding Rs yield the same dividend--which is the A/R ratio.

But brute size is not all that matters. The turbine's A/R (area/radius) ratio basically determines where the turbo starts to accelerate. A turbine housing looks kinda like a big snail shell. Unwrap the shell and it resembles a cone. Cutting off the tip of the cone leaves a hole--the cross-sectional area of this hole is the A in A/R. The hole size is important since it determines the velocity at which the exhaust gases exit the turbine scroll and enter the turbine blades. For a given flow rate, the smaller the hole, the higher the velocity--but the greater the restriction to exhaust-gas flow

The R in A/R is the distance from the center of the cone's cross-section to the center of the turbine shaft. A smaller R imparts a higher rotating speed to the turbine; a larger R gives the turbine shaft greater torque to drive the compressor wheel (because the lever arm R is longer).

The compressor housing is a primary factor in determining how much boost (and power) a turbo is capable of supporting. There are at least nine different housings available for standard shaft-diameter TO4s alone! Here are three of 'em.

Why is A/R ratio important? Consider two extremes: Bonneville land-speed racing (LSR) versus quarter-mile drag racing. In an LSR application, the turbo's rate of acceleration is not critical; the setup can be lazy off-the-line, but the overall acceleration rate, once it begins, should be smooth and linear--this application generally calls for a high A/R ratio. At the drags (and on a street car), you need more aggressive, instant response, which tends to lean toward a lower A/R ratio.

Unfortunately there is no easy scientific method for selecting the proper A/R ratio. Seat-of-the-pants feel is important: If boost rise is sluggish, the ratio is too large. In extreme cases, the ratio gets so big the turbo can't turn fast enough to produce the required boost. But if the ratio is too small, the turbo gets into boost so quickly that the vehicle becomes almost undriveable--and on top, it will feel like a choked-up normally aspirated engine that's under-carbureted. Also, what equates to a low or high A/R ratio varies by turbine series and engine displacement. Assuming the ubiquitous TO4-style turbo on a typical 350ci engine, Innovative offers these A/R guidelines as a starting point, based on where you want the turbo to work best:

Operating Range; A/R Ratio
Low-end; 0.58
Midrange; 0.69-0.81
High-rpm; 0.96

The accompanying Turbonetics table lists its baseline recommendations for a variety of engine displacements.

Turbonetics latest Inconel Super T turbine wheels (right) feature 10 improved high-efficiency blades in place of the previous 11-blade design. Super T turbines fill the gap between the TO4 family that tops out about 900 hp and the huge Super Thumper family that starts working at 1,400 hp. Inconel is good up to 1,700 degrees F. Need more? Special Mar-M 247 exhaust wheels survive at 2,000 degrees.

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One Turbo or Two?

For racing only, there are super-large single turbo setups that can support over 1,500 hp, but they don't work well down low. Generally, when not restricted by sanctioning body rules, the usual crossover point between single and dual installations is in the 900-1,000hp range. Most under-900hp requirements can be met by one turbo, typically the universal TO4 or a custom derivative based on the TO4 frame. However, some claim that even in the under-900hp regime, two smaller turbos reduce lag over one big turbo; others counter that basic physical laws postulate that the reduction in inertia and flow caused by splitting the exhaust energy in half more than outweighs the supposed advantages of lighter, smaller components--or, in English, one big turbo housing is more efficient than two smaller housings.

But turbos must also be considered as part of the overall induction and exhaust system. There's no doubt that twin turbos have certain advantages on V-type engine layouts. The cross-tube on single-turbo V-8 installations can lose a lot of heat, and heat energy powers the turbine; two turbos permit a greater cross-sectional discharge pipe area, and dual wastegates are more efficient.

Ford 302, Actual displacement: 301.59 ci, Peak engine speed: 6,000 rpm, Airflow: 1,057.67 cfm (74.04 lb/min), HP potential: 740 hp, Compressor: GT76, Approx. efficiency: 66%

Finally, there is a special type of dual-turbo setup called compounding, where multiple turbos are mounted in series instead of in parallel, as is normally the case on a multi-turbo setup. Compounding is for extremely high boost pressures (on the order of 50-100 psi!) and is usually only encountered on tractor pullers, big diesels, and aircraft. With one turbo alone making 50 psi under extended operation, the high boost causes shaft overspeed and eventual unit failure. With compounding, a larger unit mounts ahead of a smaller unit. Since it's able to work harder and draw in more air, the larger unit generates an initial 15 psi or so, which the smaller unit then multiplies by three or four times to generate high boost without overspeed. With the air already condensed, the second, smaller turbo is not a restriction.

Honda B18, Actual displacement: 1,834 cc (111.95 ci), Peak engine speed: 9,000 rpm, Airflow: 588.88 cfm (41.22 lb/min), HP potential: 412 hp, Compressor: TO4E-50 trim, Approx. efficiency: 72%

We've said that heat is good on the turbine side, but bad on the inlet side. When an engine makes over 10 psi of boost, heat buildup on the inlet side requires cooling the incoming air down using a charge-air cooler (aka "intercooler"). We'll get into 'coolers, wastegates, system layout (including turbo location), and turbo engine-building stuff next month. Stay tuned!

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Sample Compressor Maps

These Innovative Turbo maps are just a few examples of some of the many available compressor variations. We've selected them because they meet the needs of common high-performance engine combinations in terms of efficiency and airflow. The selection is based on 15 psi of boost pressure (approximately a 2.0:1 pressure ratio), the absolute maximum for an electronically managed and efficiently intercooled engine running on pump gas.

To select a compressor by means of an airflow map, use the engine airflow in lb/min to establish an operating line on the compressor map for the turbo combo in question. Choose a map so that the intersection point of lines drawn from the desired engine airflow in lb/hr (the green vertical line in these examples) and the boost pressure-ratio axis (the blue horizontal line in these examples) ideally falls within the 70-75 percent efficiency region. On an intercooled application, you can scrape by with as low as 60 percent, but higher is better.

Chevy 350 (+0.030), Actual displacement: 355.11 ci, Peak engine speed: 6,500 rpm, Airflow: 1,349.15 cfm (94.44 lb/min), HP potential: 944 hp, Compressors: Two GT61 (47.44 lb/min per turbo), Approx. efficiency: 73%

If several different maps seemingly meet your efficiency goal, choose one that has the intersection point farthest to the right side of the 70-75 percent island. This results in quicker turbo response. You want to play in right field.

In a dual turbo installation, divide the total airflow requirement in half, then select a map that satisfies those conditions. Note that as engine displacement increases, a given turbo still passes the same amount of air, but observed gauge boost pressure will be lower.

Chevy 454, Actual displacement: 453.96 ci, Peak engine speed: 6,000 rpm, Airflow: 1,592.01 (111.44 lb/min), HP potential: 1,114 hp, Compressors: Two GT70 (55.75 lb/min per turbo), Approx. efficiency: 70%

Authored by: WDRacing [post_title] => Turbocharging and Supercharging [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => turbocharging-supercharging [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:10:58 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:10:58 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [143] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1441 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This worked on my 2002 I35.I don’t know if it'll work on other similar model years or not.
I am pretty sure it will NOT work on anything older than 2002, and it probably won't work on anything newer than 2004. Again, it worked on my 2002, and that's all I know.

First, turn on your car (ON key position) and your airbag light stays on for 7 seconds, then starts flashing every half second. (.5 seconds on, .5 seconds off, repeat)
This means either your airbag is malfunctioning, or it malfunctioned in the past.We'll find out exactly what happened in a second.

If your airbag light is on solid the whole time, either your airbag has deployed, the computer thinks its deployed, or your sensor or wire harness is broken.You're going to need a professional to fix this.

If your light never comes on at all, your METER fuse might be blown, or you might have a wiring fault in an airbag circuit.Go directly to Infiniti and have a professional fix this.

OK, so your light is flashing like I explained before.Next, we're going to enter DIAGNOSIS mode.This mode will tell you exactly what’s wrong with your airbag (according to the computer at least)It's a bit tricky, but read carefully.

1. Turn ignition switch “ON”.
2. After “AIR BAG” warning lamp lights for 7 seconds, [i.e. when it stops running solid and starts flashing] turn ignition switch “OFF” within 1 second. [DO NOT SWITCH IT TO LOCK, SWITCH IT TO ACC]
3. Wait more than 3 seconds.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 two times. (Perform 3 times in total.)
5. Turn ignition switch “ON”.
SRS is now in Diagnosis mode.

Try it a few times.If you can't get it to work, have someone else try.If you STILL can't get it to work, check your battery voltage.It might be low.

In diagnosis mode, you're going to hope the light flashes slowly.2 seconds off, 3 seconds on, and repeats.If your light does this, this means that the computer detected a previous error that hasn't been erased.This is good.

If you get ANY OTHER result, go directly to Infiniti. You've got a real problem that needs a real fix.

Now, to erase the error from memory.

5. If “AIR BAG” warning lamp operates as [as I said before], turn ignition switch “OFF” to reset from Diagnosis mode
to User mode and to erase the memory of the malfunction.

6. Turn ignition switch “ON”. “AIR BAG” warning lamp operates in
User mode. [it should stay on for 7 seconds, then go off, like normal.]

DON'T disconnect any yellow plugs like I did.Those yellow plugs mean they are part of the airbag system.

By: Nitrogen
[post_title] => Maxima and I35 Airbag light reset procedure [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-i35-airbag-light-reset [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:12:51 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:12:51 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [144] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1449 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] =>

The following directions can be utilized in the replacement of HID bulbs in the 2002-2003 Maxima. These instructions cannot be utilized with other years of the Nissan Maxima. One person can accomplish this task with no no problems. Please view pictures with steps for additional detailed information.

Tools needed: 10mm deep socket or wrench

The 2002 and 2003 Maxima utilize D2R HID bulbs. These bulbs fit into the headlight housings in a certain direction based off the key as seen in the picture. Bulb orientation has the bulbs power wire in the "down" position, thus this "bar" will be on the bottom when installed.

When handling the bulbs, DO NOT touch the bulb as oil from your fingers will shorten their life.

Step 1. Disconnect the battery. I chose to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Due to the tight confines within the engine bay, the drivers side is tight and will require the battery to be moved unless you have hands the size of a child. Using the 10mm socket or wrench, loosen the two nuts from the battery tie-down. One loose enough, you can disconnect the hooks and move the battery out of the way. This will give enough space to work. On the passenger side, there is nothing to move. You simply have to work around the windshield washer tube.

Step 2. The HID bulb has a sealed cover (utilizing a rubber O-ring). To remove this cover, twist counter clockwise to release and you will be able to remove it.

Step 3. Once the HID cover is removed, you will have access to the socket. To remove the socket from the HID bulb, twist counter clockwise and pull backward. You may need to wiggle it somewhat but it will disengage.

Step 4. The most difficult part of the installation seems to be figuring out how to disengage the retaining ring from the HID bulbs. Per the diagram, you will need to depress each "hooked" end of the ring inward (toward the front) and slide inward to toward the bulb. Once each side is done, the bulb will loosen up and you will be able to remove it. Do not touch the bulbs.

Step 5. Time to install the new bulbs. Remove the bulbs from their packaging without touching the glass section. To install the bulbs, use one hand to hold the retaining clip out of the way (it is hinged from the top) and slide the bulb in. It is easiest to insert the bulb with the "power wire" on the bottom as this should align the bulbs key. Once inserted, twist the bulb slightly left and right to ensure it is in. Move the retaining clip over the bulb and re-engage each end of the clip.

Step 6. Reinstall the socket but leave the cover off. Once both new bulbs are installed, temporarily reconnect the negative battery post and turn on the headlights to make sure both bulbs are functioning appropriately. If all is well, reinstall the HID covers and remount the battery (remember to tighten down the negative battery post).

All done!!!

Article by: audtatious

[post_title] => Nissan Maxima 2002-2003 HID bulb replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-2002-2003-hid-bulb-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2020-01-18 19:22:47 [post_modified_gmt] => 2020-01-19 02:22:47 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [145] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1450 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Cost -$40. You will need: assorted screwdrivers pliers wire LED's with resistors for 12v a drill with bit the size of your LED patience time electrical tape soldering iron optional (recommended) i think that's it PUTTING LED's IN YOUR DOOR LIGHT 1. Disconnect fuse for door lights if you desire. 2. Pry off clear cover with screwdriver 3. Unscrew 2 phillips screws and pull out light assembly 4. Disconnect wiring harness. 5. Drill hole in plastic housing as shown.

6. Tap your LED wires into the positive and negative wires from the original light solder in place. 7. Use electrical tape to insulate everything so you don't get a short. 8. Push LED into hole that you drilled. 9. Test to make sure it works 10. Put everything back how it was. I left the original bulb in there and the original plug intact so that if I wanted I could go back to stock in 1 minute. ENJOY!!!! HOW TO WIRE LED's INTO YOUR ARMREST 1. Wire all of your led's to a single cable( diagram is bad but gets the point across)

2. Insulate everything!! 3. Remove door panel. 4. Drill holes once again the size of your LED's where you want them. Drill from the inside(the cardboard side), and then run the drill through the other side to clean the hole out. I drilled seven an inch apart on the underside.

5. Push your LED's into the holes you made, and run the wires towards your door hinge. 6. I had my wires exit the hinge side of my door panel between the door and panel, just above the speaker.

7. Figure out how to get your wires inside, I went through the existing hole as shown above. 8. Hook the cables to power and ground, or to a previously installed switch. I routed my wires under the carpet to my switches

Remember to organize your wires somehow, or they will show or your floor will look WORSE than this:

enjoy your lights! this is the passenger armrest and door light

WIRING LED's INTO THE PARKING LIGHT REFLECTORS 1. Remove your parking light assembly 2. Unhook the harnesses, and take out the lamps. 3. Once again, drill a hole the size of your led in the housing wherever you want the led. Before you drill take out the bulb so you don't break it. 4. Put the led into the hole, and silicon around it so that moisture can't get in and fog up the light. 5. Wire the LED into the wires going to the bulb if your want it going on with your parking lamps. or wire it elsewhere or to a switch. 6. Insulate everything, and reassemble what you took apart. Here is where I routed my wires

And my grounds for everything

ENJOY!!!

(windshield nozzle lights for reference) (I put 2 LEd's in each corner light) UNDER THE DASH LED's 1. Same as before

2. For the drivers side, drill holes in drivers side panel under steering wheel 3. For the passenger side, I just shoved the wires up behind the glove box and made them stay with a couple of pieces of electrical tape. 4. Route wires to power and ground.

HOW TO: SWITCHES IN DRAWER UNDER RADIO 1. This is a PITA. Also something that I would not recommend doing. Making the drawer open and close is even harder. 2. I don't think many people have access to the materials and equipment, but I made a three sided bracket- the side you see, and a side on the left and right to make it stay. I measured the drawer, and used those dimensions. Unfortunately, I don't have them anymore. I also used the smallest toggle switches I could find, and they barely fit. I routed the wires to and from the switches through a hole I drilled in the back of the drawer, and I almost drilled through the thing that makes it click shut and through the spring. The radio, climate control, and drawer come out as one piece, and then you have to convince the drawer to come out of that. All in all, it takes lots of convincing. Then you have to make the wires exit down somewhere so that they don't bind and the drawer still opens and closes. I would post a real write up of how to do this, but i don't know how to explain it and I would have a guilty conscience for recommending this to others.

BTW, I wired all the LED's except for the door ones to those switches and grounded them to that spot shown above. I powered them by tapping into the cig lighter wire, because it was easy to get to, had its own fuse in the fuse box, and got power only when the key was turned to accessory or further. Article by danielekfuj [post_title] => Nissan Maxima: LED interior lighting [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => maxima-led-interior-lighting [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 18:37:20 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 01:37:20 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [146] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1452 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => This is an instant and free mod to do to your Z. Tools needed: - Phillips Screwdriver - 10mm Socket - Pair of dykes (cutters) Removing the foglights: 1. First you will need to remove the turn signal. The turn signal is held in with two phillips screws (red circles), undo them and the turn signal will slide out.

2. After you get the turn signal out, you will be able to see the back of the foglight, which is held in with three (3) 10mm nuts. Before taking off the nuts, undo the connector (green arrow) and then take off the nuts (red circles). Then push from the back and the foglight will pop out the front.

Removing the glare guard: 1. With the foglight out, remove the four (4) phillips screws at each corner of the back of the foglight (red circles)

2. The back will come off, but the wiring will still be connected to the lens. To disconnect the wiring, first slide off the grounding wire (top red arrow), and then pull back the clip holding the light bulb in (bottom red arrow). Take out the light bulb and be careful to not touch the light bulb as the oil on your fingers will shorten the life of the bulb considerably. 3. Remove the two phillips screws on each side, make sure you do not loose the little white rubber/plastic pieces (red circles). Then turn the foglight over and turn the phillips screw on the front like you are taking it out (this is the alignment screw) and when you watch from the back, you will notice the lens will be coming off the screw (green circle).

4. Take the lens out and you will see the glare guard.

5. The glare guard is just a piece of metal that is attached at two points. Take a pair of dykes and just cut each of these two attachment points and the glare guard will come off.

6. Put everything back together in reverse order, install them back on your car and you will have much brighter foglights. Before.

After.

[post_title] => Z32: Glare Guard Removal for Brighter Foglights [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 300zx-z32-glare-guard-removal-for-brighter-foglights [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:17:29 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:17:29 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [147] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1453 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Since searching around on the internet revealed this is becoming a more common problem as the 300zx ages, I figured I'd address it. If you have the symptom that you turn your key off and remove it and your Z won't shut off, it is most likely your fuel controller. Removal and replacement is simple and straight forward. Tools needed : Phillips screwdriver 10mm socket with extension on ratchet Start by removing the two interior panels shown below...they just pop off.

Next fold back the trunk mat to expose 4 phillips screws holding the package tray to the trunk floor (red circles) Then remove the 4 ten mm nuts that hold the package tray down on the top side (also red circles) and remove the package tray.

Once that is removed you will see two 10mm head phillips bolts at the back edge of the center console riser that butts up to the package tray. Remove those two bolts. On the sides of the center console riser there are two phillips screws under black plastic bolt covers, one on the drivers side next to the seat, one on the passenger side next to the seat. Pop open the covers and remove the screws. Now you can remove the center console riser. Next, back up top where you removed the drivers side cover in the first step, you will most likely see a "package" that contains the headlight aiming tools. Remove that and toss it aside. Once you do that you will see one phillips screw/10mm bolt that holds the interior trim piece (grey tweed unless reupholstered otherwise) that runs behind the drivers seat. Remove that screw. The trim piece is held into the side trim below the b-pillar by a plastic snap. Wiggle it a little and pop it out. Set the trim piece aside. Your interior should look something like this now

From here you can easily see the fuel computer, but it is much easier to access and remove if you take out the black felt covered lower trim pieces that is behind the seat. This is held in by plastic snaps and one phillips screw which is under a black plastic bolt cover. Remove this piece and you will see the following.

Here's what you're after.

There is another computer on top of the fuel computer. Simply remove the two 10mm nuts and swing it out of the way. You will see the fuel computer.

Unplug the harness and remove the fuel computer. Follow the steps in reverse for re-installation. Also, keep in mind that there is a lot of insulation, sound deadening material, and other junk under the panels.I don't have any of it in my car, it just adds weight. Put it back in if you wish. New the fuel controllers are big money, but they can be had used in good working condition anywhere from $25-$200 depending on how lucky you are and if the seller knows what they have. Hope this helps out anybody who searches for info on how to do it. [post_title] => Z32: Fuel Controller/Computer replacement [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 90-96-300zx-z32fuel-controller-computer-replacement [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:24:46 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:24:46 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [148] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1454 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => Time: 2 Hours Tools Needed: - 10mm socket - 12mm socket - Phillips screw driver - Small and Medium Extensions Procedure 1. There are two (2) 12mm nuts on the front of the headlight and two (2) 12mm bolts on the back of the headlight. The front two the the rear one closest to the center of the car are the easy to get to. The rear one that is on the outside of the car is harder to get to. Here is a pic with the headlight out to show you where the nuts/bolts are located.

2. Remove the center panel by removing four (4) 10mm bolts at the top of the center panel (red circles).

3. Remove the MAF harness (red circle) and remove your intake (blue circle)(you guys with stock airboxes, this step will be a little harder because you will have to remove the whole airbox I believe)

4. Remove the T-hose (red circles)

5. On Twin Turbo models, I believe you have to also remove the recirc. valves at this point. 6. Now you will be able to remove the nut and bolt that is closest to the center of the car. All the nuts and bolts holding the headlight in are 12mm. Remove the front 12mm nut nearest to the center of the car (red circle)

7. Remove the rear 12mm bolt nearest to the center of the car (red circle)

8. Do the same for the other headlight. 9. Remove the turn signals by taking out the two phillips screws and then the turn signal will pop out (red circles)

10. Going through the hole left by the turn signal, remove the front 12mm nut that is to the outside of the car (red circle)

11. Do steps 8-9 for the other side. 12. Now for the hard part. For the drivers side, turn the wheels all the way to the right and take out four 10mm bolts along the wheel well splash guard and pull back to get access to the final 12mm bolt on the rear of the headlight.

13. Here is the bolt you are trying to get to. This is the easier of the two (red circle).

14. Now for the passenger side. Turn te wheels all the way to the left and take out four 10mm bolts out of the wheel well splash guard and also take out the two top phillips screws out of the top of the wheel well splash guard to gain easier access to the bolt. When you pull back the splash guard, you will see an box with a couple vacuum hoses coming out of it and an electrical connection. This box is connected to the body by one 10mm bolt and remove this to get it out of your way to get easier access to the 12mm bolt on the headlight (red circle).

15. Due to the wires running right next to the final bolt at the rear of the headlight, you will have to have a ratchet with small head on it. Here is an ok picture of the bolt (red circle).

16. After removing this final bolt, you will be able to take out the headlights. Take out the bulbs first and then you will have to pull up and out at the same time. They are a little difficult to get out. 17. Reverse the steps to reinstall. [post_title] => Z32: Headlight Removal [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => nissan300zx-z32-headlight-removal [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2013-01-11 20:44:14 [post_modified_gmt] => 2013-01-12 03:44:14 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [149] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1457 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => So your cruising around in your 240, just doing your thing be it going to work, hard parking, drifting, just driving around with your buddies. FLUB FLUB FLUB FLUB oh no, you have a flat tire, what to do? Step one: pull safely off the road, put your vehicle in park, or gear with the emergency brake on. Try to get a flat area to jack your car up on, get out and inspect the damage. Step two: go to the area of your car where you keep your tools/jack/spare tire Step three:break all lug nuts loose with the lug wrench before you do anything.

Step four: use your jack under a safe jacking point (if you look underneath your vehicle, right under your driver side or passenger door, there should be a pinch weld, or a factory jack point, in the front and back on both sides) that will be where you wanna put your jack, or under your cross member, theres many places you can put it. Step five: jack the vehicle up, you don't need it 3 feet off the ground to change a tire, as long as the tire is off the ground your fine.

Step six: loosen your lug nuts with your lug wrench the rest of the way, and set them inside the vehicle so you don't loose them. Step seven: remove the wheel from the wheel studs, bend down, with your knee's not your back, and pull the wheel straight off the studs, watch your hands for metal strands coming from the damaged tire.

Step eight: get your spare tire and once again use your knees, bend down and put it directly onto your wheel studs step nine: tighten your lug nuts, tighten all of them a little bit at a time, or use a star pattern, your not cranking down on them, make them say finger tight. Step ten: lower the car off the jack Step eleven: Now proceed to crank down on the lug nuts, tightening them all a little bit at a time, or using a star pattern. step twelve: put away all of your tools and your wheel with the flat tire, check your work over and make sure its all good. Step thirteen: start your engine, put on your turn signal and pull out in cautiously manner, oh who am I kidding rip on it and leave in a trail of smoke...

Contributed by: Logan76 [post_title] => Changing a Flat Tire [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => changing-a-flat-tire [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2015-06-14 23:11:15 [post_modified_gmt] => 2015-06-15 06:11:15 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [150] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1458 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => The following directions can be utilized in converting the factory foglights to HID bulbs in the 2002-2003 Maxima. One person can accomplish this task with no problems. Please view pictures with steps for additional detailed information. NOTE: If you have purchased new lights that have "DEPOT" stamped across the glass instead of Nissan, please see the special note at the bottom of this article. Tools needed: -10mm socket or wrench -Phillips Screw Driver -Needle Nose Pliars -Wire Strippers -Soldering Iron + solder -Shrink Wrap ****Instead of the Soldering iron and Shrink Wrap, you could use butt connectors --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The above image is a representation of the parts I had to work with. For this project, I purchased a new set of fog lights since one of my factory fogs was broken. In the picture, the top light is factory and shows how the factory wiring comes into play. The lower light shows the H3 HID bulb in place via the kit-supplied wiring. The remaining wiring for the kit shows the bulb to ballast wire and the ballast to vehicle connection wiring. As you see, with the kit, the supplied wiring will not allow the back cover to be utilized nor will the kit interface directly with the cars factory foglight connector. This is something I wanted to remedy. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Conversion for H3 bulb: As seen in the first pictures above, the factory wiring goes through a rubber grommet within the backing. Since the kit does not supply this part, the back of the fog light would be "open to the elements" which was unacceptable. Step 1 - As the first step, I cut the factory wiring behind the connections then pulled the wiring out. I then took a pair of needle nose pliers and removed the rubber grommet as seen in image 2. Step 2 - As you can see, the factory wires are a bit smaller than the HID bulb wires. This will require you to increase the size of the holes in the grommet. I actually used a sheet-rock screw to shove repeatedly into the holes in order to increase their size, you can do this task with whatever is handy. Step 3 - Cut the HID bulb wires approximately 3" from the connector ends (may be longer if desired). Press the free ends (containing the socket connectors) through the grommet. At this point, you will have the grommet with the two wires sticking through and the socket connections poking out the flat end. Now, reinstall the grommet into the backing piece. At this point, you are ready to solder. Step 4 - I cut and slid some Shrink Wrap (about 1.5" in length) onto the long wires attached to the HID bulb. I then stripped the ends of the wires, twisted and soldered them together. Finally, pull the shrink wrap over the solder joint and heat with a lighter to seal. At this point, replace the backing on the foglight. Once completed, you should have a final product similar to images 3 and 4. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Interface to factory wiring: The first two images above show the changes made to the kits car interface wiring. These are the wires that run from the ballasts to the factory car connector. Since the Kits wiring does not have a Nissan connector, I used the factory connector from the new foglights. Step 1 - The first step is to cut the excess wiring off the factory connector, leaving approximately 3" of wiring left over. Then, cut the blade connectors off the HID kit wires. For the final results, you will need a 3" piece of shrink wrap that will go over the whole HID-kit wire and two 1.5" pieces to fit over the "soon to be" soldered connections. Slide the larger piece onto the HID kit cabling followed by the two smaller pieces. Make sure they are moved far enough away so the heat of the soldering iron will not shrink them down prematurely. Step 2 - Strip the ends of the wires and solder them together. Once cooled, slide the two individual shrink wrap pieces over the joint and heat with a lighter. Once cooled, slide the larger shrink wrap over the two connections and heat. At this point, you will have the finished cable which consists of the Ballast connection on one end and the factory connection on the other. When all wiring is completed, the final result should look like the 3rd image. The kit is ready to be installed at this point. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Foglight Removal: I will not detail the removal process of the factory foglights. For that information, you may visit: Replacing 2k2-2k3 Maxima Foglight Bulbs. The steps below reflect the differences and/or additional steps required for installation. Step 1 - When installing the foglights, it is easier to pre-connect the Ballasts to the bulb connections as seen in image 1. It can be done after mounting but this is easier. Once connected, follow the installation instructions linked above to mount the lights. Step 2 - The other difference is the mounting of the ballasts. On the passenger side, there is a 10mm bolt which holds the bottom of the washer fluid reservoir (image 2). Remove this bolt and use it as the ballast mounting location. On the drivers side, the bolt mounting point is there, but not being used. I utilized the 10mm bolt that was provided in the CoWay kit to mount the ballast on that side. Prior to mounting, I added some 2-sided tape to the back of each ballast as this added additional stability. Step 3 - Simply install the final connection cable to the ballast and the cars factory harness connector and the installation is complete. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Final Result: The final result was great! While it did take me a bit of time to customize the kit, the process could have been shortened by utilizing butt connectors for simplifiction. The way it is currently installed, I can easily remove these new foglights and reinstall a factory H3 set if needed. The image to the left shows the car with the CoWay H3 HID kit used for the foglights and replacement CoWay D2R headlight bulbs. Both the foglights and the headlights are 6000k. ***As noted at the top of this page, I did run into one major problem that took me a while to figure out. I had ordered a non-Nissan set of replacement foglights. What I did not know is that there is a small flaw with their wiring. The wiring to their factory plug is backward! Once I figured it out, I "simply" rebuilt the Ballast to car connection cable to have the wires reversed and the rest of the installation was smooth as silk. So, if you have foglights with the word "DEPOT" stanped on the lense, check its wiring polarity against the factory harness connector. Article by:audtatious [post_title] => 2002-2003 Nissan Maxima - Upgrade foglights to HID [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => open [post_password] => [post_name] => 2k2-2k3-maxima-upgrade-foglights-to-hid [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2010-01-29 21:04:13 [post_modified_gmt] => 2010-01-30 04:04:13 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => post [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [151] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 1460 [post_author] => 39 [post_date] => 2009-12-10 19:38:11 [post_date_gmt] => 2009-12-11 02:38:11 [post_content] => 1. Loosen lug nuts slightly, allows easier removal when wheels are free 2. Jack up car and place on stands, frame area just before it bends to engine bay. Frame will seem heavier there 3. Remove lug nuts and wheels 4. Remove the engine lower cover. This will allow access to the back of the main tension rod bolt. 5. I then loosened the nuts holding the tension rod to the control arm. Loosen each one a little at a time to not put all the pressure on one . I used a 1/2 ratchet with a small piece of pipe to give me more leverage 6. Loosen the main bolt holding the tension rod to the sub frame. You may need to use a second socket to keep the bolt from spinning. The nut is a 19mm and the rear bolt head is a 17mm if I remember correctly. Again I used a 1/2 ratchet and a small piece of pipe for more leverage. 7. Make sure to note the dots on the arms so you know where to